How to Secure and Reinforce Front Door
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- čas přidán 23. 07. 2024
- This gives specific detail as well as a step by step install of a door guard. This video will help you understand the importance of securing your door properly.
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
A few issues.... some of the screws you used are wrong. Ones into the door jamb are dw screws and are easily broken. The screws you used to secure security plate are fine tread self tapping screws meant for metal and not wood. Also, you should put the plate on first then your dead bolt latch insert. That is the reason the plate was tight against the frame. In the winter time, that door will not close. So many more issues but I don't have all day. Had to be a flat/pry bar and not a screw driver. That is also the wrong size/type security plate,, that is why it covered the bottom latch insert. Etc
thanks bro. im installing mines tomorrow. Plate before dead bolt latch, got it. lol
If times get worse, I have a barn door style with a 2x4 for when I am home. I believe it will shatter a hip or pelvis before they know it won't budge. This also will give me more time to shoot.
I have also thought running the old style metal, perforated pipe strap across the windows It is easy to do and cost effective. Back in the day that held a few mufflers on, lol.
But of course there is a fire issue to think of.
Very important to reinforce your doors. I tell anyone and everyone who will listen to do this!
Good video, it was short, economic and to the point, nice cheap fix increasing the security of your home
drywall screws are brittle and the head will snap off with force making the 3 inch screw worthless. Use something other than drywall (Black) Screws.. IMHO
Great video. Thank you.
Great video. Thanks!!!
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Some people drill and glue a one (1") inch wide by 4" long metal pipe into the door frame to catch the dead bolt. Make sure of the inside diameter of the pipe so it will accept the dead bolt.
I think you do a great job at explaining everything. I'm now going to replace the screws in my deadbolt with longer ones.
Thank you.
There's still a problem, because the screws go through the stud near the edge of the stud, and so they break out easily.
The double is important because of the splitting it gets below the portion of the door with all the holes to tie the top and bottom together with the lock
Nice job, but you didn't mention to secure the other side, the hinged side with a minimum of longer screws. Also no talk of security hinges.
Looks great good job, only I would never use a normal cylinder. I would use the Bolt smart lock.
Awesome very illustrative, what size head and brand of screw on both the shorter, and longer? TIA
Wish he would have shown the view of the side of the door after the door guard was in place. Wanted to see the clearance of the bottom lock piece that goes into the wall. Did he have to shave down the door guard? From what he said earlier, i believe the clearance was there, but would have been nice to see at the end when the project was finished.
What about the garage people door, have a custom door frame that has no support strut?
I have a door with metal on the outer and inner sides do I still need to reinforce that with one of those metal door plates?
A cheap, functional deterrent. Just ordered for all of my exterior doors.
Also, purchase the long throw dead bolts.
Very good advice!
Just got a new door, added that and the double metal on the other side
Can it also be used on the Doorknob part? Instead of the deadbolt?
And the the hinge screws. And a door frame plate.. then your good.. just pre drill all the screws
Thanks for the video and explanation. How did you bend the bottom part so well?
What bottom part? As a lock expert, I might be able to answer this question
I need to fix my broken door it doesn’t even lock because I don’t have any doorknob
What if the door is a tight fit already?
Using longer screws for the striker plate (on a wooden frame) will simply crack or snap the frame. On a wooden frame pre-drill and install 4 inch screws in the direction of force (across the typical grain of the wood frame) to hide it remove the molding first then reinstall it. Btw, there shouldn't be that much clearance between the door jam and the holes for the striker plate.
I just had a new door installed and the installer used 4 inch screws on the hinges as well as both strike plates. He told me that he doesn't install doors without using 3 or 4 inch screws to hold the door in place.
I just put new steel strike plates on my doors for security and found out the guy that installed my doors already had 3.5” screws holding the original strike plates in. I thought that was really cool
Yeah, they should come with them already, because a lot of people don't realize that those little screws are useless. Plus, metal (outswinging) doors are better than wood doors.
@@mgarcia2445 Out swings 🚪 do not work for general security.
@@mgarcia2445 ya you use am outswing, so someone can easily cut hinges...
4 inch screws makes no difference if it didn't go to the main frame!! Sometime the main frame is offset and is not where the hinges are. Best to drive it on a angle to catch the main frame
All I can say is wow
What size of screws did you use?
He held the screw up to the door jamb; the screw extends beyond the door jamb;-- the door jam is about 2.5in/6 cm wide. Since the screw head and end extend past+ 1in/2cm= 3.5in/9cm. Always do the math 🧮🧰🪛🛠
So was the dead bolt locked?
no
it looked like the outside of the door had visible screws that could be taken off.
No, just the added plate has 2 outdoor screws.
You know it looks good serious this is how every door should be installed in every house but yet here we are in 2020 and they still don't do it correctly and we're not talking much difference in money here were talking less than $5
there is a lot more to do just on the latch side, like making sure you're using the right strike plates for the door knob, on the door knob there is the latch and the dead latch. the latch is the part with a chamfer that allows the latch to move into the door when you close it without you having to turn the handle, the dead latch is the small plunger on the opposite side of the latch from the chamfered edge. If you have the door open and you press in the latch with your thumb you'll see the dead latch moves with the latch but if you press in the dead latch by itself the latch doesn't move. Now with the dead latch already pressed in try pushing in the latch. it won't move in. If your strike plate is oversized it'll allow the dead latch to pop out allowing the latch to be slipped.
you can also replace some of the screws on the hinge side with jam pins. that, along with keeping your door locked on the latch side and using the longest screws you can all around, will give you some protection against kicking.
Right so using the longer screws will hopefully break intruder’s foot not the door.
Often the jamb splits as well as the door.
When I was younger I kicked our front door in. (wood frame wood door) and only the frame broke. It was a latch only lock and was a trailer house.. just for reference what I hate is that the screws for the bash plate are right on the edge of the studs, so a plate is necessary for best security. Along with pre drilling all hinge, plates and installing longer screws..
Please tell the people what happens when you over tighten the screws
pro
yeah, but then they go in back and break the patio door. LOL
The lower lock it’s easy to open because of the inclination for the outside, the screwdriver slides easily
The longer side should face the outside
Sorry my English
No, if you look closely at the lower bolt, it is basicly a rectangle, but it also has a half round piece that moves with it (you can't see the shape well but you can see the side if it @1:31). If you push the half round piece all the way in while the rectangle is out, you then cannot push in the rectangle, that is the security. The problem is when installers don't mount the striker plate correctly, and then the half round piece slides in with the rectangle (notice the hole in the sriker plate is the rectangle shape, not the rectangle and half circle, and @6:18 you can even see a reinforced tab like part to ensure the half round does not slide by), THEN a screwdriver or credit card or knife blade can push back the bolt.
Btw, if you don't have a half round piece on every exterior door bolt (including garage to house door), the wrong part was installed and should be replaced!!
First thing to do is install a deadlock!!
I got some bending on my shaft.
Why does that sound like sexual innuendo?
@@williambernardbrown Mainly, because it was. lol
wouldn't it be easier to break a window
I suppose but I live on the 24th floor...
it makes more noise so. other people will know whats happening
Every room in my house has an Alexa. When me and my girl aren't home, they're listening for glass breaking constantly. If that happens emergency responders are notified within 10 seconds.
@Gunsmoke and more obvious.... most doors are not reinforced, so a burglar can walk up, pretend to ring the bell, step back to correct distance, then kick forward (which will easily break open an unreinforced door) the walk in like the owner let them in. No way that can work with a window.
Im sorry but adding an extra piece to support the broken door is bad idea .. changing the door to a metal door would be the best option instead
Understandable. Unfortunately the price of doors has nearly doubled or even tripled in the last 2 years. Many due to the situation either lost their income or are unable to keep up with the current cost of living. This is a great option to secure your door… with that said… as you stated installing a new door is always the better option. Thank you for the input.
I am surprised they went to all that trouble , Those Kwikset "Smart Key" Locks can be forced open using a Screwdriver and Wrench to turn the Keyway , They have plastic inside ... Total POS !
Kwikset locks are the worst lock you can use. They are garbage.
That door should not be saved, toss it by a new door…