As someone who has had to repair 10 break ins this year. This tip won't do much. As seen in the video, the frame is already cracked. What you need is a countersink bit and 4 inch screws (4-6 of them) and screw them into the frame perpendicular to the screws you put in. The striker plate is only as strong as the frame it's attached to. And if that frame breaks those screws you just installed will simply bend in the direction of force.
Good Job. Thanks! I would also add to check and make sure the deadbolt EXTENDS ALL THE WAY into the door frame hole and if it doesn’t, DIG OUT the hole until it does. 😁 To check, extend the deadbolt BEFORE closing to test the total extension of the deadbolt then compare that FULL extension to the extension while door is closed. If it DOESN’T extend as much, dig out the deadbolt hole until it does. 😁 Good Luck 🍀, Everyone. Details, Details, Details.... Life Is About The Details!!! 😁
I’m a handyman and I enjoy all of your videos. This is great advice and I do this on almost every house I walk into. I have found that rather than using a #10 by 3” screw, I have a better fit to the strike plate if I use a #9 by 3”. It seems to fit the bevel on the strike plate much better. Seems to me the slightly smaller diameter would not decrease the security. Thanks for your great advice!
Most people have no idea how easy it is to kick in a door, and also how simple it is to make it much harder to do. I try to tell anyone who will listen to reinforce their doors. Thanks for the info!
Most people have no idea how easy it is to kick in a door, even after doing this. The plate wont hold, will bend and allow the door to be opened by minor force after being kicked in the first time. Dont believe me try it.
@@crisnmaryfam7344 This is why you need a solid steel strike plate, like the one he held up at the end of the video. Put that thing on and no one is kicking the door in. In fact, it would be easier to kick the door hinges off the door than to break through that plate (which is why you need to reinforce the hinges too).
Did this in all my friends places when I got a big box of screws. I did it first thing moving into my current home. Sometimes a kick or bump is all a thief is willing to try. Next to to 3m film the windows. Untempered glass is the best with it on both sides. The shards help support the film. Tempered just crumbles like on cars and wont hold up as well.
I need to place the film on my side lights. I was also thinking of installing ODL Add On blinds which would also slow someone down enough to be a solid deterrent.
Wont stop the door handle "pin" that locks the door in place while shut, from being pushed into the plate and bending it. In fact it just moved the force to that specific area, and will not stop the door from being kicked in. Try it and find out!
Thank you, me as well but the one door I couldnt finish smh I had tried to drill this exact long screw in aaaand ⚡⚡⚡ zzzziiiipp!!!!⚡⚡⚡ Shocked me!! Saw smoke as well but not too much The light switch fixture was not setup correctly because the cords shouldn't be near the door lock mechanism at all so I had to just put one long in and a short lol smh
Pricy contractors install the strike plates w factory 1/4” screws. 1 kick from an intruder will snap it right out of frame. Install 3” screws it goes completely intro the structuring of the house & the intruder will get tired🤣. This is how building contractors & construction companies get away w so much profit.
Hey Scott, I love your channel but you should have used a different door in your video. This will not work when half of the door is glass. Because all the perp gotta do is break the glass, stick his arm in and unlock the door.
I changed mine out/the screws on the door, where the deadbolt attaches. I used 1-3/4 inch screws, so far though, thats just what I had on hand, it is WAY bigger, than the ones I had in there, I put 3inch screws in the kick plate though, my kick plate, for the dead bolt has 4 screws in it, I put 3inch screws, in the knobs kick plate too/non deadbolt lock as well, so technically I put six 3inch screws in, if you add both kick plates screws together, I also checked my hinges screws, BUT they were ALL 3inches, surprisingly.
I did this and the screws pulled my door frame in 3/4 of an inch now there is a huge gap in the door. Looks like I smashed some sort of metal shim that is in there.
Thanks,my neighbor(also scott)told me about putting a keyed deadbolt on the inside as well,after some guy Climbed Up and over my 2nd floor balcony and popped the screen off while i was at work! I need to try to get those screws in there also,one went crooked and the other one broke but i'll asap!😌
as are most doors, hence why this is one of those "wives tales". Hey whatever makes you feel better at night, Right? Just know its not going to stop the kick you think it will.
This will give you a false sense of security because if you look at where a longer screw goes into the stud, it's right on the edge and can be easily broken out. You need some kind of metal plates behind the trim that screws deep into the stud to prevent breakout.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Yup, they are about an inch. I'm just afraid that putting in 3 inchers could crack the 50 year old door (the inactive leaf). But... I guess as long as you pre-drill, it should be fine.
As someone who has had to repair 10 break ins this year. This tip won't do much. As seen in the video, the frame is already cracked. What you need is a countersink bit and 4 inch screws (4-6 of them) and screw them into the frame perpendicular to the screws you put in. The striker plate is only as strong as the frame it's attached to. And if that frame breaks those screws you just installed will simply bend in the direction of force.
Don't forget to do this on your door hinge plates too.
Good point, thanks for the feedback.
Why. That isn’t a common failure point is it
@@AverageReviewsYTyes. If the door is too secure on the look side then the hinges will just blow off instead
@heyzeuss i get that it is. But id imagine it would be pretty hard to kick it in.. i still do my hinges anyways.. but still
Good Job. Thanks! I would also add to check and make sure the deadbolt EXTENDS ALL THE WAY into the door frame hole and if it doesn’t, DIG OUT the hole until it does. 😁 To check, extend the deadbolt BEFORE closing to test the total extension of the deadbolt then compare that FULL extension to the extension while door is closed. If it DOESN’T extend as much, dig out the deadbolt hole until it does. 😁 Good Luck 🍀, Everyone. Details, Details, Details.... Life Is About The Details!!! 😁
I’m a handyman and I enjoy all of your videos. This is great advice and I do this on almost every house I walk into. I have found that rather than using a #10 by 3” screw, I have a better fit to the strike plate if I use a #9 by 3”. It seems to fit the bevel on the strike plate much better. Seems to me the slightly smaller diameter would not decrease the security. Thanks for your great advice!
Actually, #9 is the right size. But beware #9x3 inches Power Pro (#48600) have a countersinking blade. They don't fully fit flush with metal plate.
Great instruction. I fixed all my doors. Thanks!
Most people have no idea how easy it is to kick in a door, and also how simple it is to make it much harder to do. I try to tell anyone who will listen to reinforce their doors. Thanks for the info!
Most people have no idea how easy it is to kick in a door, even after doing this. The plate wont hold, will bend and allow the door to be opened by minor force after being kicked in the first time. Dont believe me try it.
@@crisnmaryfam7344 at least it helps a bit
@@crisnmaryfam7344 This is why you need a solid steel strike plate, like the one he held up at the end of the video. Put that thing on and no one is kicking the door in. In fact, it would be easier to kick the door hinges off the door than to break through that plate (which is why you need to reinforce the hinges too).
Also, remember to install 3" screws for the door hinges.
Did this in all my friends places when I got a big box of screws. I did it first thing moving into my current home. Sometimes a kick or bump is all a thief is willing to try. Next to to 3m film the windows. Untempered glass is the best with it on both sides. The shards help support the film. Tempered just crumbles like on cars and wont hold up as well.
I need to place the film on my side lights. I was also thinking of installing ODL Add On blinds which would also slow someone down enough to be a solid deterrent.
Another great video, thanks Scott. And thanks for the tip on drilling one screw at a time, to not lose the alignment.
Happy to help!
just found the screws in my deadbolt. Half a inch long. insane
Wont stop the door handle "pin" that locks the door in place while shut, from being pushed into the plate and bending it. In fact it just moved the force to that specific area, and will not stop the door from being kicked in. Try it and find out!
Thanks. Never thought about that.
Happy to help! 👍
Thank you, me as well but the one door I couldnt finish smh I had tried to drill this exact long screw in aaaand ⚡⚡⚡ zzzziiiipp!!!!⚡⚡⚡ Shocked me!! Saw smoke as well but not too much The light switch fixture was not setup correctly because the cords shouldn't be near the door lock mechanism at all so I had to just put one long in and a short lol smh
Pricy contractors install the strike plates w factory 1/4” screws. 1 kick from an intruder will snap it right out of frame. Install 3” screws it goes completely intro the structuring of the house & the intruder will get tired🤣. This is how building contractors & construction companies get away w so much profit.
Hey Scott, I love your channel but you should have used a different door in your video. This will not work when half of the door is glass. Because all the perp gotta do is break the glass, stick his arm in and unlock the door.
Simple fix: guillotine door
What about the plate on the door where the bolt is? Should that be three inches as well?
You will not have clearance on the door side to install 3 inch screws. The standard size screws should be fine and still result in a strong hold 💪
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Thank you!
I changed mine out/the screws on the door, where the deadbolt attaches. I used 1-3/4 inch screws, so far though, thats just what I had on hand, it is WAY bigger, than the ones I had in there, I put 3inch screws in the kick plate though, my kick plate, for the dead bolt has 4 screws in it, I put 3inch screws, in the knobs kick plate too/non deadbolt lock as well, so technically I put six 3inch screws in, if you add both kick plates screws together, I also checked my hinges screws, BUT they were ALL 3inches, surprisingly.
I did this and the screws pulled my door frame in 3/4 of an inch now there is a huge gap in the door. Looks like I smashed some sort of metal shim that is in there.
Tried 1/8 bit. Was too small. Used the one size bigger. Also the screws didn't go in as easy as yours did. Not sure why.
What about the bottom lock?
What about 3 inch screws inside the actual door?
Not that I'm icd but why is the trim over the dead bolt plate
I need to do this
Have you ever done double doors ?
Thanks,my neighbor(also scott)told me about putting a keyed deadbolt on the inside as well,after some guy Climbed Up and over my 2nd floor balcony and popped the screen off while i was at work! I need to try to get those screws in there also,one went crooked and the other one broke but i'll asap!😌
where is the link for the security plate?
Can I use 4" x 10 wood construction screw???
Just be a bit careful as you don't want to drill too far as there could be Romex running down the backside of the framing.
Problem..The Frame is a bit less that 3 inches wide so then what?
Don't want to change the whole frame
Is it ok if i do all of this with a screwdriver?like installing them with just a screwdriver?
How about the door hinges?
I also do my hinges because why not. I used 4" screws on the strike plates and hinges with no problems.
What about the garage people's door, my friend garage door has a custom door frame with no wood block to stop a 3 inch screw ?
as are most doors, hence why this is one of those "wives tales". Hey whatever makes you feel better at night, Right? Just know its not going to stop the kick you think it will.
This will give you a false sense of security because if you look at where a longer screw goes into the stud, it's right on the edge and can be easily broken out. You need some kind of metal plates behind the trim that screws deep into the stud to prevent breakout.
Have you tried the security strike plates? czcams.com/video/_rcIUDBxkCE/video.html
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Exactly what he was referring to.
some strike plates have a formed steel pocket, with pre drilled holes aimed up and deeper into the 2x4's
Ok, so what if you have double doors and the strike plate is only attached to another door?
🤔Did you remove one of the screws to see how long the existing screws are which were used to mount the strike plate? 1 inch?
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Yup, they are about an inch. I'm just afraid that putting in 3 inchers could crack the 50 year old door (the inactive leaf). But... I guess as long as you pre-drill, it should be fine.
@@surfordie82yeah with the predrill you should be fine or you could split the difference and get some 1 3/4 or 2 inch.
A "torque" bit does sound foreign to me and that looks like a TORX bit to me. I might need to use a torque-wrench on some torx screws.
Bad idea folks.
why?
Are you wearing makeup 😂
Same😂