Make Your Doors Secure with this Easy Trick
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- čas přidán 15. 09. 2021
- Mickey shares how to kick proof your doors with this simple affordable door modification using a 1/8 inch steel bar.
Securing Entry Doors - Burglar Proof Doors
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I’m a locksmith for almost 40 years. Nice to see the lock reinforcement which is standard for Schlage and some other brands. The flat stock on jamb is a great idea. I’ll be volunteering at the Greater Philadelphia Locksmiths Convention in a few weeks and I’ll be sharing your video with a bunch of people. Great job, I like how your video is produced for a typical homeowner. And yes on hearing and eye protection. I’m about one appointment from being told I need hearing aids. Best wishes. kev
Even if they told you that you need hearing aids, how would you know?
The Schlage deadbolt plate is better than this steel on the backside. The Schlage reinforcing plate is thick and has two offset holes, offset to the centerline of the wall, so that the 3 1/2 inch screws go well into the studs. And the Schlage plate goes on the face side of the jam, not the backside, so the deadbolt will be going all the way through it. Putting a plate on the back side of the jam means just the tip end of the deadbolt will extend through it - not good. I noticed that Schlage has changed their design now though, and apparently not all deadbolts come with the plate that has the offset holes.
People can look up "SCHLAGE COMMERCIAL 37-016 Strike Reinforcer" to see the plate with offset holes.
all I did was replace all screws and used 3 1/2'' deck screws on latch plates and door hindges @@michaelhilber8284
@@alphaforce6998keep your day job. A comedian you're not
@@artsteadman2230 That's uncalled for. 6 people found it funny.
I retired from the Police Department after 23 years and investigated of lot of burglaries and home invasion's where doors were kicked for access. A few years back I hardened my three exterior doors with flat bar on the jam side and on the hinge side of my steel skinned doors. I also added a 4th hinge centered on the two bottom hinges. When a door gets kicked it is usually at knee height or lower and that extra hinge adds that much more strength on the hinge side. I also replaced my dead bolts with ASSA dead bolt lock assemblies. These locks cant be drilled or bumped and they are used in jail faculties and high security commercial building. I used a lot of the 4 inch stainless steel screws to be sure no one is coming in uninvited. The ASSA locks are crazy expensive but I have the peace of mind and or the reaction time in the worst case scenario. I also removed the side lites on my front door to keep anyone from smashing a window and just reaching it to turn the the deadbolt. One more tip. I installed a steel 6 panel door in the hallway (with flat bar) to our bedrooms. That has effectively made the back end of the house a big safe room giving us even more reaction time and one more layer of fire protection. I investigated more then a few cases where burglars used the home owners ladder to access non ground level windows. So all of my ladders are locked in the shop away from the house. Friends have asked if I am paranoid and I just tell them, "nope, I don't like surprises in the middle of the night".
Thank you for your service and for the tips. May I ask what brand door you installed? I'm having trouble finding a solid door.
Wise i will do the same
Question: Should or would it be a benefit to replace the factory screws that hold the hinge to the actual "door panel" with the 4" hardened screws that were applied to the jam? It just seems that without replacing said screws.....these original factory screws installed in the actual "door panel" becomes the week link in an otherwise fortified install. Thoughts/Suggestions? Thank you!
@irk hayner saddly, that is the tradeoff. But, they have tools to get in. Remember, the fire department has the Jaws of Life. Those would just munch through the door regardless.
@irk hayner Not their problem. That is a you problem.
Half my subscriptions are guntubers and the other half is woodworking channels. This was an epic crossover
@@appaple2937 same answers
Lol
Same on the crossover experience. Lmao
As an electrician that often drills many holes through metal ive found that you can really extend the life of a drill bit by predrilling each hole with a self tapping sheetmetal screw. Then just throw the screws out as they dull.
Good idea.
Great Trick you 𝘯̵𝘢̵𝘪̵𝘭̵𝘦̵𝘥̵ it...screwed it ... A Tin Knocker showed me that when I was 17. Been doing it ever since. A few 1/4 self-tappers in the tool box takes up no room at all. I forget what brand but I bought a box of them and these self-tappers where better than drill bits.
I am a homeowner with a day job who does not do anything construction related for a living. That being said I am working on framing out my basement and Bought this czcams.com/users/postUgkxHQsUrwNr5GQrnx9V4xDdUr56qxwuiBHt gun. I have done a few walls already, have probably shot a couple hundred nails through this thing and have yet to have a misfire. It works awesome, good depth on every nail if you have your compressor set right. My literal only complaint is that it is a bit heavy and my arm can get a little tired especially whrn I am nailing at odd angles. That being said I am super happy with it and would buy it again. Hoping the old girl allows me to get my whole basement finished out!
With those extra long screws, work some paraffin wax into the threads. As the screw is driven in, the wax heats up and become a lubricant. When it cool it acts as a slight binder to keep the screws from walking out.
Is English not your first language?
Tis what the madam says
I understand what you're saying man. Thays for the advice.
Appreciate the old school advice. That hater up above is an idiot… You got your point across, and it made sense right off the bat.
Wax does help lubricate and doesn't to add especially when driving some long screws works good on hardwood too
My Mother in law over in Europe has an amazing door to her Condo. The door is very heavy, you can feel it when you move it. Also, the entire frame was changed and when the key is turned, there are 8 seriously large pins that go into the frame, 3 on each side and 2 on the top. If you would lose the key, you can only get another from the company, there is something very special about it which makes copying it not possible. That is awesome! I loved it when I first seen it. I'm a Tool & Die Maker so I can actually tell that it's made very well!
Are those types of great locks available from online sources in the USA? Thanks for the reminder of how seriously door security is taken in Europe and other foreign lands.
@@Anonymous-zv9hk This lock wasn't a kit to add on.. My wife said that the company came and removed the entire door frame from her Condo and installed the new one. Not sure if I mentioned it but I guess regular locksmith can't open your door, must be someone from the company. also, if you're home, you can put your key inside the lock on the inside and then nobody can stick anything at all inside the lock on the outside! Talk about safe! haha! I don't remember the brand. I'll have to ask my wife about it. I think it's only in europe.
@@galaxiedance3135brand pls
@@Anonymous-zv9hk I've only seen what is described in vault doors here in the states.
I became adamant about hearing protection at 19 years old when I realized all my dads buddy’s from the trades were pretty damn deaf.
Now in my 40s I’m glad I made that choice.
I can still hear near perfectly !
Yup, When i was a young tradesman I made sure I did that with my kids when I realized was losing my hearing due to the lack of safety standards in the trades at the time
Huh.....what did you say....I'm a little hard of hearing. 😳👀🤔
That's one of my "if I could turn back time" issues.
What???
My neighbor &I wear H.ng, protection when mowing too ! !
Great stuff, thanks. I found a cool trick for cleaning up those metal shavings. Get a little magnet (like one of those telescoping magnets) and put it in a plastic or paper bag. Hold the covered magnet near the shavings and pick them all up. Go to a trash can and separate the magnet from the bag and voila, the shavings are picked up without having them all stuck to the magnet, works great.
That’s brilliant!
Use a pill vial, put the magnet inside and then remove the magnet to make it drop the swarf (trimmings)
I use a plastic screw-top jar with a loudspeaker magnet inside. This is kept against the lid with wadded up newspaper. I keep it nearby by simply sticking it against my steel shelves. This contraption goes into a plastic shopping bag, which I wave over the iron filings and pieces. I then turn the bag inside out and pull it away from the jar. Presto: all the filings are now in the bag.
Never thought of a plastic/paper bag. You've just fixed a problem I've just come across. Brought a metal nibbler and it does these 16th inch shavings.... a lot, this will fix it. Thank you great hint Oh using a recycled microwave magnet on a stick (so I don't have to bend down, getting old sucks for some things)
Genius
Use a center punch to drill holes and the drill bit won’t walk on you.
Unless you are buying at the junkyard, that piece of steel is probably more like $10-$20, but still well worth it for the extra security.
Was going to say the same thing. I laughed when he said $3 to $5.
Don’t buy steel at Home Depot or Lowe’s . Go to a metal supplier and you will be amazed on how much cheaper it is . Big box stores charge 4 to 5 times the price of a supplier.
@@byranyates6987 ... and ask about looking through the off-cuts
If you perform hardening of your entry points, make sure loved ones who may be checking on your wellbeing have access. I have a coworker who has a sister with a medical condition. She'd barricaded her doors because she lives alone and is infirm. She had a medical incident to which he had to respond. He ended up having to break out a window in her home to gain access to her. It ended up costing him a lot of time trying to get her medical help.
Had a similar situation w/ my G/F's sister (she didn't make it) . I was able to easily able to breach/access the house though, from years of my fire/rescue experience.
Window doesn’t take long, and much cheaper to replace the glass pane vs a door/door jamb.
@@AscDrewHaving been there, when the fire department kicks down your front door, you won't care about the cost in dollars.
Sure I will. And I’ve been there too. Much more reasonable to cause $100 in damage vs $500-1000 or more.
Our new house had some uninvited visitors to the outside (front door, cellar window), so I invited the local police to do a security assessment. Luckily I had specified almost everything correctly prior to the house being built. Only one factor for improvement was identified. The windows have multiple lugs holding them closed on 3 sides in addition to the hinges (4th side). (And all windows are visible to all close neighbors). Otherwise the house is concrete & brick, both entrance doors are security models - aluminium skins on hardwood with steel jambs and multiple deadbolts, Swiss security locks, all windows triple glazed, the cellar windows are triple glazed security models and the other cellar window in a light shaft has a secured security grille at ground level. And there are no stud walls in our house (all brick/concrete), so a self-defence shooting scenario would afford protection and would not endanger neighbours. The house is automatically lit on all sides (motion detectors) and all neighbours on all sides have good visibility. For the curious: the house is extremely well thermally insulated and uses an air/water heat pump and underfloor heating. Judicious use of shade and aeration keep the house cool in summer without A/C bills. All the best, Rob
Brick dosent stand up well to a heavy hammer .. nor does concrete .. but maybe regardless or mesh wire helps . .. thing is most people .. don't realize the weak point that people tend to forget about is the walls
Why are you so insecure that you require so much security?
I’m a locksmith and this is a great addition to the jamb. But remember that the door itself will also be split open. A wrap around for the deadbolt and lever will provide added protection for the door
Yep door can split, I added 1/4" steel plate either side of the locks, fixed with epoxy and M6 steel carriage bolts. That would take some punishment.
I was thinking same…. This is good, but just shifted weak point….. also add some of those grade 5 spax onto the hinge side, jist replace existing 2 of 3 or 4 hinge/jam screws….
You need multiple locking points to spread the load. Mine has four points. The second recomendation is don’t use a wood door. Use steel or fiberglass door. I have fiberglass. Guaranteed to break a leg before a door. It would take three or four shotgun blasts for the military to do a door breech.
@@TexasEngineer may I ask which brand door you found that comes with four points? I am having trouble locating solid multi-point doors in the US. Thank you.
@@AnnaMaria-jj7yl It is Masonite and it is not soild core. It is fiberglass with a foam insulated core. The insulation works really good. If you have ever tried to drill through fiberglass, it will dull a normal twist drill bit. I put a peep hole in it and I looked up on You Tube how to drill in fiberglass door. Turns out a wood spade bit works.
Home Depot sold and installed the door and it was custom ordered. I have not seen the kick proof doors on display a Home Depot in a long while.
In my engineering carrer I have delt with fiberglass in utility poles, radomes and fences and I have always been amazed at its strength and durability. It rivials mild steel in strength. Where I once worked they had a vault with a steel door. The steel vault door was filled with insulation, asbestos.
I installed an exterior door on our master bedroom. 👍👍👍👍
My dad did that years ago, dead bolt and hardening. Mom thought he was crazy until the time she started sleeping alone.
A few years later a relative living there replace the drywall on common interior wall with plywood under drywall.
All the windows but one were too high to climb through from the outside.
The one thing I haven't seen is for homes with double doors. The Double door security would be nice to see. Thanks for the info and I have shared this to people that I have been trying to help over the years.
im always amazed seeing ‘old pros’ who haven’t learned to hold their drills straight, or trying to speed through metal like its wood
Very good solution to secure a door.
Safety note: 16:38 DO NOT place your thumb on the strike plate where he has it. If the driver bit "cams out" of the screw (slips) you can drive the bit right through your thumb.
Um......I've been there and done that. It hurt. A lot.
Yeah I was pretty shocked to see him doing it like that,and a few other odd things too.
Door technician manual and automatic here really proud of you using all the proper terms for the parts of a door. When most people hear Jam or Strike they think I am speaking a different language.
I've done this, but I epoxy the plate to the door aswell with screws, it then distributes forces through the whole plate and not just the screw areas.
exlt!
Multiple smaller screws would be close to the epoxy method in strength and allows simple plate removal just in case.
@@geoh7777 I agree, I just see it as it should me their for the life of the door, and done right their should be no need to remove it.
I've actually had a door I "buffed up" with super glue on the flapper bar + gorilla glue on the strike plate screws and one hinge survive an attempted breach.
Hinge side on your door needs more love. If you back stop the center hinge TOO the same way (it'll be easier! I promise), it'll hold.
My win was on a college rental with a bunch of girls inside. Meth head hammered the crap out of the door I'd added a bit of stuff to at 3am on them. It some how held. Same dude went next door and went right through a locksmith installed upgrade deadbolt set like it wasn't there since the hinge side had nothing but trim screws on it. Made off with aa few K in laptops and TV's.
./fshalor goes off to buy some more 1/8th" tomorrow.
@The RealMathilda What do you mean windows? Windows glass can just be broken and opened. Unless you put security film.
I just finished upgrading the security of my walk in cellar. Over the last 20 years. My neighborhood has changed. It went from a nice suburban town to an urban like crime infested cesspool. The back of my home borders & includes conservation land...being woods.
I have two small cellar windows, 2 large windows, A steel door with 2 x 6 double framing, and a steel garage door with two added slide locks that go into the runners. . For all four windows, I had steel security grating made with frames at the local Regional Vocational School. I only had to pay for the material. The teacher was using it as a learning moment for the students. The frames were expertly constructed, sanded and ground, and even primed in their auto body shop. For the two large windows I replaced the glass. Each window was 36" x 46". Each consisting of four pieces of glass 9" x 29" I took out the glass and replaced it with 1/4" Lexan. Bulletproof to a point and very expensive. I got the Lexan for free. My father worked with Lexan and Plexiglass. Inside the frame I bolted 3/16 Plexiglass to the inside of the frame. Again unbreakable. I built another frame connected to the two large windows. I attached the security grating to the framing. Moving on: I had HD install a steel garage door. The walk in cellar door was made of steel. The old fashioned steel. Not the cheap flimsy stuff they manufacture now. Here is the piece de' resistance. Two days ago I received my final touch from Amazon. 2 Pack Heavy Duty 2x4 Door Barricade Brackets Steel U Bracket Drop Open Bar Security Holder Door Lock Brackets for Home, Barn, Shed, Garage, Gate to Security Door Reinforcement Fits 2x4 Bar, Black. 95% of the brackets were 3.5 mm thick. I found only one that was thicker steel. It was made by Domuen and was 6 mm thick. My walk in cellar is now like a fortress. Here's a reminder. Anything can be broken in to. I'm sure that a bad guy could get in if he backed up a truck and tried to plow a hole thru my cellar. But think of the noise and racket. The walk in cellar was my main concern being hidden from the street. I'm sleeping much better now. My neighbor across the street has all kinds of security cameras wired on his house. We've become very close friends and he has a camera overlooking my home with the ability to record. If he doesn't see me for two days, he checks on me to make sure I'm ok.
I just had a steel front door installed by HD. I replaced the hinge and lock screws with longer ones. I'm thinking of adding that 3" wide, 36" long, 1/8th piece of steel to the framing.
My last project security wise is to replace my other door with a similar steel door from HD. I'll consider installing the 3" x 36" steel if given the chance.
Staggered screws are a good idea. But your screws set near the edge of the jamb are barely catching the framing. Remember that the jamb is the width of the trimmer stud PLUS two pieces of drywall (so the jamb edge is flush with the finished surface). The edge of the stud is inset 1/2" from the edge of the jamb; position your screws accordingly
Some tips to build on this: If you look at commercial buildings, especially federal ones- they all have steel frames. Get a good steel "knock down" frame and weld it together in its installation phase. Ideally have it sandwiched between outer wall and and interior stud. Use 3 or 4 stainless ball bearing hinges, good locks and high windows w/safety glass if you must have them atleast 5-6" away from the handles. Building on the metal plate concept, if you make a L shape plate, wrapping the facing side around the outside of the jamb towards the exterior, any inward force only makes the bolt tighter. This door is impenetrable without destroying the wall and compelling another Method Of Entry.
Nice job! Who ever told you to use cutting oil when drilling, was right. If you slow down your drill (very slow) it will cut better and your bits will last longer!
I drilled Class 5 and Class 6 safes. Cutting oil drastically improved drilling efficiency and bit longevity, over bit alone.
Dish soap, try it.
Correct
Good video. I also like the acknowledgment that no door or security is unbreakable but that it buys time to think and to act.
This! Nothing is impervious given time and effort. The idea is to both make the place too much of a pain to bother with and give you time to prepare for a really persistent optimist.
I just did this to my new house. I didn't know there was kits out there you could buy. I went all the way around the door, and door jamb. I also added 3 more dead bolts on top of the one that was already there. I have 3 deadbolts on the handle side and one on the top of the door. With 6 inch lag screws everywhere. Anyone that tries to kick it in will need a knee replacement. I also used construction adhesive under all the steel.
This should be standard on all suburban exterior doors. Good stuff!
Should be an option from the manufacturer too.
Builders should pay attention to what their subcontractors do. My house, functionally completed in 2019, has three exterior man doors with dead bolts, and in all three jambs the bolt hole was not drilled deep enough to allow the bolt to be fully engaged. Home inspector should have caught this, too. I fixed them and installed longer screws, but this procedure is what I really need.
@@brandonmyers3092 Most new doors already have a hardening plate installed and include longer hardware...
That'll cost another $200... Bend over...
@@FJB2020 That hasn't been my experience.
Hardware stores have strike plates that have a fully enclosed bucket for the knob and deadbolt. There are better ones that accept a screw in the bottom of the bucket to run into framing. So I’ve used 4” screws through all 3 screw holes of each strike plate and two in each of three hinges. This prevented a very obvious break-in attempt barely a week later.
If you harden the frame, which is a great idea, then the door itself might become the weak point. If you were building a new house, using a commercial steel door with steel door frame would
be another way of securing egress points for your house. I have often wondered why builders don't have this as an option. Maybe some builders do.
The issue is that most criminals aren't gonna kick your door in. Informal information but from what I've seen on our area it's sliding deck doors, then sidelight windows, followed by garage doors where you push the top panel and hook the emergency release. 100% harden your doors but I think doing this to your bedroom is probably more valuable than an exterior door. That or a safe room.
But you're a criminal you walk up to an exterior door it could be metal clad or solid wood it could be dead bolted or not. You don't flat out kick it you could break your foot or ankle. You walk around back you break the glass or you pry the slider off track.
Money ?
There are some products at Home Depot that do similar jobs after the door is already installed for like $25. Don’t forget to reinforce the hinges too with steel
Yeah that's what I'm gonna look at
Do you remember the specific names of the products?
@@musicman1eanda Door Armor
Also use the long wood deck screws for the door frame, and also the trim the dead bolt and door locks go into. That's the first thing that breaks off when a door gets kicked in.
You can do this with your door installed to just remove the inside trim and slide your plate in it won't be that hard.
also in new construction I could see that Plate haveing tabs on it to wrap around the outside and screwed into the king stud so you would be kicking against the long tabs not the screws alone. If you're doing a rain screen type siding install there would be plenty of room behind the siding for such tabs.
Nicely done, I live in a rental apartment and fastened 3*30mm mild steel bar to the inner faces of the door jamb all the way round using 4*120mm decking/framing screws to hold the frame together after seeing a neighbor kick in his own apartment door when his young daughter locked him out also got hinge pins and a few linked mortice bolts to really hold door and frame together.
65mm thick reclaimed maple door fitted as the standard 45mm fire check door had been messed up with night latch locks and a mail slot, solid maple door found in an old church fit the door frame perfect except I had to refit the trim molding 😏 landlord "suggested" that I paint the door to match the others in the building so I added a 0.5mm thin steel sheet exterior face painted piano black epoxy, it's held to the door using polyurethane based vehicle adhesive 😁
Now THAT'S a secure door. I'm afraid to even guess what that much "scrap" maple sold for.
@@lyfandeth I had to haul the door away from the church before the demolition and restorative contractors put it in the trash, kinda like dumpster/skip diving lol the mild steel angle was sorta cheap too, it was bent/warped from hanging on a rope for years in a workshop roof space, I cost me less than half regular cost.
i worked at a door shop and would harden the door frames for free including adding kick plates
I appreciate what you said about buying yourself time to act. Hearing loss has made me feel vulnerable in my home especially at night. Making my home more secure is essential to my peace of mind. I'm having new exterior doors installed soon, and I plan on having my carpenter follow the steps in your video. Thanks again.
May I suggest adding a good quality high powered flash light to the mix.
@@johnmcneal9477 ... and a 12 gauge pump shotgun.
I've put long screws through the lock plate & hinges and into the studs in all my exterior doors, but since deciding to do so haven't installed a new door. Next time I do I'll put a steel plate into the frame as well. It's a great tip.
This will really help me with those pesky “no knock” warrants.
Have a lot of those, eh, Simpson?
use electric magnets
That plate is a neat idea. I’ve talked to an army ranger that said even 3.5” drywall screws in the strike plate make it way harder to kick in a door. The crappy 1” screws really don’t do much.
I’d love to see you try to breach a mock up door like this. And a door secured with 3.5” drywall screws and the crappy 1” ones.
Works amazingly well with a steel door
Use better screws, those drywall screws will shear
Yes on the better screws Use deck screws
Decades of door work myself so I have a few suggestions. First, you badly need an impact, you'll stop spinning heads of screws. Even one turn will make a colored screw ugly. Second, I'd highly recommend also replacing the hinge screws on the door side as well and do all 4. The rails of the door are three times thicker than a typical hinge screw so use some 2" screws. I also countersink the hole a little larger to get the head flush for larger screws. Lastly, add another deadbolt with a thumb turn. One more bolt through that jamb adds significant strength.
I bought my first impact just recently. the Flex 1/4 from Lowes, it's awesome, 2 batteries, charger all for $99, great tool.
Great suggestions!
Thanks Mickey. As a Master Locksmith with 40+ years of experience I agree with what you said. Almost all deadbolts have a 1" throw though, so you can't really buy a longer "bolt", and if there is too much of a gap between door & frame (over 1/4"), you can design that plate to go on the outside instead of the inside of the frame, effectively making a single long strike plate for both the latch and bolt together.
I could have described that a little differently. What I was meaning to say is that the bolt can penetrate to different depths depending upon how installed. Again, not intended to be a how to install a door video or even a lock set video. Thanks for your add
Deviant Ollam has a great speech on the matter of physical pen testing and doors and locks in general. His job requires him to test the physical security of various businesses and if at all possible to exploit easily overlooked weaknesses and teaches his clients on ways to make it not so easy or downright impossible.
Like if your hinges are on the outside there are products that you can replace a couple of the screws within the hinge with a stud and you just unscrew the screws opposite of the stud. So that way if someone knocks the hinge out they can't walk the door out because of the studs in the hinge lock it in place and that's a $3 hack that works in that scenario...
Here is what I have done with my exterior doors to harden them. It’s very similar to your method but mine was done when installing the door. First, prior to hanging the door, I used .120 x 2.00 HR angle on the framing for the full length. I have it set in with construction screws going both the way the hinges and dead bolt go and perpendicular to it. This puts the screws into both shear and tensile strain for handling the load of an attempted forced entry.
The dead bolt and screws all go through the angle putting that shear load into the steel and framing. The same goes for the hinge screws. Threaded angle on the framing, Screwed in both ways. At this point, all the load of a forced entry goes to the angle and structure framing. After watching you build the plate, I thought that could be used for version 2.0 where some flat bar, as you were using, could be placed in a slot routered into the door edge and with the screws set to spread the load into the door. The bolt would pass through the .120 flat bar stock and replace the cover plate which holds the deadbolt and latch to the door edge. I can mill that out of the flat bar, but it would be a little more challenge for the average DIY guy. You probably could do it with a hole saw, a Dremel, and some patience.
Can you get through it? Maybe, but the force needed would be tremendous. It’s unlikely a single person could do it without blowing the hinges off with a shotgun/slugs. I don’t think a ram would pop that door.
The idea is to give me enough time to respond. And, as you mentioned, the door is one part of several layers of security. Walls, gates, lots of exterior lighting, cameras, landscape, and dogs tell wanna-be home invasion artists to find another target.
One other thing I do when installing a door is run the screws that mount the door frame through the thicker jamb. I counter-bore the hole to set the screw below the surface and glue in a plug. Once finished, you can’t see any evidence of mounting screws - nice and neat. Bear in mind, my design puts the load on the angle and into the structure framing. The door frame no longer bears the load of the door being forced open on either side.
Unfortunately, the doors sold at Homecheapo are VERY poor quality and will splinter to pieces if someone kicks at the lockset area. Reinforcing the jams is a great idea, but if you just have a cheapo non-reinforced door, well you are just hiding behind a weak door that can/will be kicked in...
That's a great post, and I agree with the apiary guy that once the frame sides have been strengthened to such a great degree, the door itself would fold and crumple with sufficient ramming.
But they can just bust out a window for easy access. Or bust through the cavity between studs if nothing else.
@@elgringoec If there is a will, there is a way.
You're only as safe as the weakest link (windows?) but yeah....this is a great start.
@@billiamc1969 all homedepots entry doors have a 1/8 4x4 kickplate behind the jamb. with about 25 large staples thru it makes it a 4-5 kick door easily. ive been installing them for over a decade
Thanks for the ideas. Some doors are better than others though. So the door itself may also need re-enforcing. Years ago I locked myself out of a rental with my keys, and phone in the house. So I figured I'd just "carefully" kick in the door and repair the frame and strike plate. I made progressively harder kicks just to the door, right below the door knob so as to just damage that area. Since just the door knob was locked and not the deadbolt. The door ended up "opening like a banana" opening up in the middle. The door frame and doorknob held. Though it did ruin the door knob latch also. I was actually surprised! I would have bet that the frame would have given first! Normally does!
I figured this one out on my own I have since installed something like this on all my outer doors and my bedroom door, after all the most valuable things are resting in beds. However I used 90° angle iron so it comes out behind my strike plates and I just chiseled out wood from my trim to accommodate the steel.
As a 20 year distributor of doors, some manufactures have 16-guage steel plates behind thier lock prep. BUT, make sure your contractor also uses several 2-1/2" or longer screws on your jamb side hinges, penetrating into your wall studs.
I have demonstrated that I can lift most doors off thier hinges in about a minute without this added procedure.
What I did to re-enforce my existing door's, was to bore a hole through the jamb and studs and drive a 6 inch long piece of EMT pipe through till it was flush. Before doing that, I formed the end to receive the deadbolt. If your door is all wood, you'll want to install a metal "U" shaped re-enforcement that you can get at most building supply stores.
I have made several of these, but I only used 1-1/2" wide steel because all that meat on the side that is away from where the pressure would be applied doesn't do much good, and I was placing them on door's that were already installed, and just put them on the inside of the door jamb, and they worked out great! I probably used between 12-16 3-1/2" screws, and I used a much larger bit to make recessed screw holes so the screws would sit flush so they didn't interfere with the door.
It might not be as pretty as his hiding behind the jamb, but I bet mine is stronger because of the leverage against the dead bolt, and mine also has a hole for the regular door lock also.
It is a great add-on skill when you install doors for a living. At my first apprentice job, My boss used to make extra money for the company by selling this during the install. It was very lucrative. Most people wanted it. We had pre-cut metal and holes drilled so the job was a slap it on and go.
This is awesome. I also bought the reinforced strike plates that extend across both the door latch and the deadbolt latch. Using these actually made both my front door and garage doors close and latch more smoothly. I need to change my front door out because it's 24 years old, wooden, lowest builder-grade and it keeps swelling. I've had to shave several mil off the top 3 times now to get it to stop sticking. I want to put a security door in its place, as I'm going to be turning this house into a nightly rental in the near future.
A heavy gauge steel security screen door (front and back) is good and allows you to get cross ventilation during mild weather.
Thanks for this! I'm replacing my doors shortly and this was perfect timing.
I’m a carpenter myself, on all my exterior doors I have a steel plate running from the bottom of door to the top, I added a one way dead bolt a foot from the ground. My hinge side has all 4 inch screws. I can’t wait for someone to try it. Then I made custom windows bars for all my windows. Honestly my house is a fortress. Mag drill makes drilling all these holes a lot easier. Prob over kill but got to many guns in the house!
Another tip, it's what we do here on the coast where we have hurricanes. Hang your entrance door where it opens out, not in, and also do this as well. You aren't kicking in a door that opens out, not very easily anyway. Like the man said, anything can be breached with enough time!
Seriously one of the best realistic safety improvements that anyone can do for our selves and loved ones. Thank you this was incredibly helpful.
Add pins in the hinges to strengthen them too... Also Door Devil makes a kit to do what you did, probably more pricey, but no drilling of steel needed. Great video Mickey!
Well done. Even if a person uses a slightly different twist, this gets the grey matter working. I have used angle iron on the frame, just drill through jam and steel. I also like to use solid Oak for shimming. I buy the 3 or 4" wide craft boards in different thicknesses. A belt sander helps to make small adjustments to thickness. Apply a little wood glue between them(but NOT on jam or stud side), no compression even if a pry bar is used.
Right on didn't know you where a carpenter before.. I've been in the roofing business for 40+ years.no more back.used it up..now I need a new career.something in the firearms.finished some gunsmithing stuff,got a diploma,ha at 58.still 30 in my brain..
... Great video . In my experience , making the door open outwards instead of inwards means you can really beef up the door frame . Adding dogbolt hinges , espagnolette bolts and an additional steel armour plate over the whole lock and handle area is what I do . Our Spanish house has all of these , plus inch thick anti chainsaw bars in the door ...
Great video on reinforcing a door jam! When I worked for the owner of lots of different rental properties, a lot of tenants asked for door chains to help secure the door thinking that it would help a lot. The owner did not like the metal reinforcing, but I used the longer hardened screws like you showed. I had to explain to the tenants that you could weld steel around the whole apt (etc), and if someone wanted in they would have to use a cutting torch, which would at least slow them down! Delay them or make them make enough noise to attract attention, these are your best deterrents!
Great video, When I moved into a apartment 20 years ago I took the door off and did this same thing and put a heavy duty dead bolt on the door. Peace of mind when you are away or at home. Never mind the German Shepard and Mr. Sig LOL Never had a problem in 2 years and then bought a home.
Back when I had access to a metal break I would take 11 gauge galvanized and bend it to much the face of the jam and back under the trim to the framing , mortising out for the metal with router and chisel to flush and paint it to much , do the same for the trim ( being on top) . The metal bar on back side would really add strength . And then the wrap on the door itself plus bar on the edge of the door
Great ideas for strengthening your main entrance. I’ve added a storm/screen door with a deadbolt. It is sacrificial. It must be breached before accessing the main door which will create noise and add a few seconds for me to prepare for my response.
Get your support hand under the other hand and check the sight picture.
Richard Cranium 12 gauge greeting system.
Yes, best tactic for all those reasons.
Click clack!
Get a big dog.
Instead of a file you can use a carbide bur in a router and make that bolt hole the size you need. It works pretty well and fast
... or a Dremel tool.
A 36 or 48" Simpson plate strap would be an improvement, if for no other reason than it's galvanized and has plenty of pre drilled holes. BTW, buy a die grinder.
And for safety’s sake, let’s add a handle on the tang of that file:-)
Nice video with enough information that just about anyone can be successful!
Better yet, buy a cnc router table and get really pro....or a laser cutter or water jet table.
Good local metal shops will be perfectly willing to bend 7/16ths of the long edge of that plate over so you can wrap to the inside of the jam with it, great shops can do compound gussets into it and produce the best result that will admittedly need some working on the jam... but then there's no point in buying a slapwood jam on an entry door. Steel jam for the win.
Step drill - Project Farm did a good video comparing step drill bits... these are a tool that should be in everyones tool kit, along with their Knipex Cobra pliers!
Friend in UK has aesthetically pleasing steel doors wherein the door latch mechanism includes 4 sliding bolts on hinge side as well as opening side. I think you would take out the wall to open the door. These doors are fairly common.
I've seen doors like that in Spain, with retracting pins all along the perimeter. Break-ins must be a serious problem there.
Excellent work on the jamb. Very strong. Now the weak point is the door itself, depending on the material. A fire door like yours is a good choice. 👍
This is excellent, thank you. I have been broken into some years ago. The door did not go, it was the frame that failed. Strengthen around your doors as well.
Nice job, well presented. I harden my front door with steel plate & inside frame. But you are right that’s just the first step. I also, have a backup alarm & a Boston Terrier that owns the place. She beats the alarm way before it goes off, if some even knocks on the door.
In some older homes, you will often encounter outswing doors going into the garage. Another good security tip is to install steel pins along the hing side between the door and the frame. This prevents someone being able breach the door by tapping out the hinge pins and removing the door, bypassing the lock.
What do you mean exactly? Install how? Please elaborate more.
@@spoonman73 You use small steel pins, ususally about 1 to 2 inchs long. 3 pins per door. You drill into the door (on the hinge side) and insert the pin, leaving about 1/2 inch sticking out. You then close the door and mark where the pins touch the door frame. Then drill a hole slightly bigger than the pin so they can go in when the door is closed. That way when the lock is still secured, if someone taps out the hinges, the door will not come off the frame. It is useful for outswing doors. The thicker the pin, the stonger it will be, but 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch thick works great.
I responded to an attempted burglary years ago at an older strip mall with around 20 businesses all with outward swinging doors into a dark alley. I tried to explain to the owner of the mall that all of his tenants businesses were at risk and he should think about this. I found an old rusty 16p nail and a rock and was able to tap out the hinges and remove the door. The look on his face was priceless. LOL The good thing was that within a few months he installed drop bars on the interiors of each shop and fixed that problem.
Excellent! You must distribute the force to more than the 2 screws holding the lock and deadbolt strike plates into the door jamb. This is the way to do it. It would be better to place it on the outer face of the jam and replace the striker plates with this plate, so both bolts extend a long distance thru the plate. But even with only the tip of the deadbolt engaging the plate it is WAY stronger. Replace the striker plate screws like in this video, with the same long screws used to anchor the plate that drill thru the plate so the strikers get reenforced also. This will give, anything will, but it won’t release without a LOT of pounding. Support from the stud wall is very important also, that structure also needs to be strong enough to resist the force of the kicker/sledgehammer, otherwise this is for naught… You really need the same steel reenforcement/force distribution on the hinge side. IMO, the only way better to reenforce is to use a strut with a shock absorber from a reenforced plate under the knob to a hard point on the floor at greater than a 45 degree angle. Even if the jam gives, the shock absorber will absorb the kickers energy and keep the door in place longer. They will have to pound on it quite a while to overcome that… time to make decisions and take action is your friend.. Excellent video!
I can break into most homes in under a minute. I worked as a property maintenance tech for a while and occasionally had to help people get back into their rentals because they had lost their keys. I, personally, have gained entry into every unit I've worked on in under one minute. You use an oversized pair of channel locks and a drill with a 1/8th" inch drill bit. You grab the door handle with the channel locks and wrench it up and down, violently. Two times up and down is usually enough to break off the handle. Then use the drill on the deadbolt. Deadbolt screws are located on each side of the tumbler so you center up the bit vertically on the keyway and start drilling about half an inch to either side. The decorative cover on the lock will come off when you start drilling allowing you to get a visual on the screws that secure the deadbolt to the door. Then you center up the bit on the screws and start drilling. The drill bit will grab the screw and drive it out backwards. It typically scares the shit out of most people when they watch me do this because they suddenly realize that they aren't as safe as they thought they were and never had been. Hell, I had the same reaction the first time I had to do that. It's a real eye opener. This only works on cheap locksets. So....fortify your door jambs with steel AND spend the extra money on something like a Schlange. The last time I had to dismantle a Schlange I had to use an angle grinder and it took me probably ten minutes to find an outlet, run an extension cord and cut out enough of the mechanism to gain entry. It made a lot of noise and took a long time. Way more tools and way more time than your average crook would want to deal with.
Micky, as a locksmith I can say this is a great start to hardening an entry point. I have a few more easy and inexpensive upgrades in mind for the everyday homeowner if you’d like to expand a bit more into this field.
Oh yeah let us know!! Please tell
will the locksmith, take a look at my entry above.
I’m guessing hinge side?
Please share, I'm curious.
Pls share
My fiancee's place has this big, heavy wood door to get into her apartment. It started not closing without lifting it up by the door knob. I had some 3" heavy duty screws laying around in my garage that I used on the top hinge where the screws were falling out of the door. I cannot even begin to tell you how bad of an idea these little 1/2" - maybe - wood screws holding up a door of this weight is. Unreal it's lasted as long as it has. Granted if she wasn't leaving there, I'd do all of the hinges, striker, etc.. Great video. Mickey!
Builders are greedy cheapskates. Most cut every corner they can find.
Great suggestion. I do home and apartment maintenance and I use the small screws but put one 3” screw into the stud on each hinge. On my house I put all 3” or 4” screws in the hinges.
Great Video. I actually just installed 2 doors on my Cabin up in New Hampshire. I did the exact same thing. My father taught this technique to me years ago. Well Done. 👍🇺🇲
Investing in a set of legitimate high speed steel drill bits makes everything easier and more precise. Good content. Home security is no joke.
Cobalt are even better, as it is a harder metal, but still not too brittle. Cobalt is so hard that it can be used as a knife without heat treating, and it will hold an edge longer than hardened steel.
Plus a fence that surrounds your entire house with 5 hungry drooling Rottweilers roaming back and forth tends to ward off home invasions. 😁👍
Nice video! I have an older car jack, that when placed horizontally in the door jamb, will expand the frame with three clicks and push the door open with one finger.
That has to be addressed when building the house though I have come up with a few good fixes but they should be done with the wall open
Awesome 😄
Great tip for everyone and fairly easy to retrofit on an existing door. It might be helpful to show everyone how to reenforce one that’s already installed.
I’m getting ready to do the same thing today 😄. We had someone kick the door in on a spec a few years ago so I’ve been reenforcing them all sense. Such a simple and effective solution!
Good video but where did he get the $3 steel? A plate like that costs $10 or more at home depot
@@earthenscience a steel supply house. The cost difference is a convenience charge because this is not their area of focus. HD is great for building supplies but not the place to save money on stuff like this.
@@daytonbrownhedgewoodbuilde4932 oh ok, thanks. What are the names of some common steel supply houses in America?
As a builder and carpenter this video did a pretty good job of explaining everything and thinking this through 👍. I think you mentioned it but 3’ probably isn’t necessary. 18” would suffice. “Hearing doesn’t come back.” Huh?! What!!? Although hardening the door isn’t worth tons if you’ve got windows everywhere as most do….when I got cleaned out they through a rock through a window
Note that the glue joint is most likely stronger that the regular wood.
But you're still improving the wood door frame
Great stuff. As far as doors with windows- we special purchased hurricane rated doors and glass (easy to get in Florida, not easy inland). While you can still break in with a sledgehammer, it would buy us time and/or alert the neighbors with the ruckus required to break in. A plus is much less noise from the outside getting in.
Excellent tip. Think we don't do enough or don't know enough to be truly safe as most of us don't think like a criminal. Thanks!!
This is a useful video for people that worry about such things. All I can say is that if someone really wants to get into a domestic property they can, reasonably easily. I’ve seen brickwork crushed off doorframes with a small port-a -power more than once.
My wifes from South Africa. Over there they have lots of trouble with break ins. Most ppl have walls around the property with electrified razor wire on top, burgler bars on all the windows, but I'm not sure about the doors. ADT "Armed Response" multiple guard dogs inside. It's crazy what they must do to stay alive in that hell hole now!
Great idea for the door. At 13:12 you all can see the finished plate. Now if there was just something I could easily and cheaply do for all the glass windows and doors everywhere around my home (other than turning on my alarm system).
If you are worried about the deadbolt throw, you and mortise that steel plate into the jam making it more reachable by the deadbolt.
That’s more or less what I did. It’s more work, but a lot stronger. Also, I used1/8” thick 1.5” steel angle instead of plat plate. Basically I made a new strike that wraps around the inside corner of the door frame and does it’s job properly. Also use 1/2” plywood 4” wide strip, as long as the steel, instead of shims right around the lock area. Kiss it with a belt sander to make it fit properly between the jam and stud. A guy with a pry bar now has to distort the steel angle in the impossible direction to get the jam to yield. Kicking it in puts force against the other leg of the steel angle. The door itself will come apart before this yields.
@carrytrainer I like (love) towards the end you commented "Tell someone you love them!!!" Solid man!!! I'm going to use this in addition the the 1ft 2-hole strike plate you can buy at HD/Lwes. Those simple things on every exterior door will deter almost anyone!!
Someone kicked in my front door three weeks ago. So I put a flat strap they use on metal stud framing. I put it behind my door jamb to make my door more stronger. 👍 I'm a carpenter so I put the 6 inch wide flat strap to use. My jamb won't get blown out again.
Great video!!! I've been a glass door mfg for a couple decades and this is always overlooked. Everyone always thinks the glass is the "soft spot" when in reality it's always either the strike being kicked through the jamb or the hinges being ripped out in forced entries. I've got Door Armour max on all my doors. Little pricey but for less than $80 a door I know I've got a little more time should someone try forced entry.
As a door installer I found 2 errors, 1 use a 1" hole saw for the lock, it's faster. 2 the holes that you drilled near the edge of the jamb will go into the drywall of the very edge of the framing ..... hence will not help to secure the frame.
Great tip!! I’ve always felt this is a weak point on doors so I think I’ll be doing this on all exterior doors I install from now on
Great video. I like that you mentioned all the other things you can incorporate into home security. Just one thing you forgot to mention which is extremely important when fortifying entry points is that you secure ALL openings including all windows and doors and even the doggie doors when fortifying your entries. And don't forget those windows and doors in the garage especially if it's attached. I used 6'x3.5"x3/16" thick steel on my door jams, and every method you could use on the other entries
but I forgot the sliding door where they got in with just a screw driver. So be thorough and by all means do it. It's well worth the piece of mind knowing no one is getting in while you're gone! And if they do the police and you are on the way! That sliding door is impenetrable now... Even with a brick! Later!.
If exterior doors were also built to open outward instead of inward it sure as hell would help a whole lot for being more resistant to getting kicked in.
Yes and no. Still needs to be reenforced. You can pop an out swing fairly easily with a decent pry bar.
If the doors opened outward the hinges would be exposed. Thus making it stupid easy to take the door out.
Opening outward would put the hinges on the outside, pull the hinge pins and your in in under 10 seconds!
@@DZ4295DBW outswing doors should all come with fixed pin hinges that cannot be driven out.
After a break-in we added an exterior security door that opens out. The hinges are hidden or recessed, can’t see them and the door latches at three points. The glass is impact resistant. Won’t stop a bullet or someone with enough desire, just another layer.
Great video!! My pops always told me out swing exterior doors are harder to get into in general. Thanks for the knowledge!
Out at a jobsite in just north of BFE, I discovered I didn’t bring any oil for drilling through some metal cover plates. I found that soapy water can make a decent substitute, especially for aluminum. Home and property owners don’t seem to mind it as much vs oil.
One of the favorite things about my house is. Good luck kicking in the door on the second floor. It's super easy without a reinforcement. Tend to always get some shove back when you don't have that first floor room to keep balance. It's likely for someone to kick our door and literally kick them self back off of the railing. However can't just count on criminal stupidity. Soon or later I will be fixing issues I might have for our two doors.
A full length steel with two deadlocks (both with same key) would be even more secure.
Just to add. Hardened screws are often brittle. Far better to use ordinary mild steel single thread screws. These might be boring slotted heads but you don’t need too many of them.
Thanks Mickey!!! You should do another one of these for an already installed door 👍🏼
That foam core door will fold in the middle and the dead bolt will retract as if it were unlocked, or the hinges will pull out, either way the door will open.
If you replace the core with solid oak or really thick plexiglass, they will only wake everyone in the house up!
Sometimes the hinge winds up on the outside (garage entry way or basement stairs come to mind) As well as everything you have done, I use 4 hinges and on each hinge I take one screw on each hinge and unscrew it a quarter inch and cut the head off and round it off to be pretty. I remove the opposite screw out altogether so that the now protruding screw fits into the missing screw hole. this way if someone manages to somehow get the hinge pin out the door will still not move. On garage entry ways (because they are usually hidden and a bad person has more time) I use a much larger screw to make the pin out of and drill out the pocket accordingly All 4 hinges
The steel plate is great. We sometimes use plastic shim kits in the UK now. I use a lot of stainless for other applications and might use that. In some European countries exterior doors open outwards, just a different convention, it can surprise you.
Hinges showing on the outside then? Hope the pins are not easy to remove.