Tips and Tricks on How To Install a Ford 9 Inch Center Chunk Carrier Episode 247 Autorestomod
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- čas přidán 30. 12. 2015
- We install a Ford nine inch carrier into our 9 inch housing on the 1967 Mustang Fastback. Most all of our tips and tricks on how to do this will apply to the Ford 8 inch center section on an eight inch housing.
www.autorestomod.com/ / autorestomod
Thanks for watching!
Video links:
Nine inch carrier build:
• Episode 30 Part 1 Ford...
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Happy New Year everyone and thank you for another year of great info and demonstrations
About to pull the pumpkin on the Bronco. Gasket replacement and general axle service. Thanks for the tutorial!
happy new year guys. thank you for all that you do for us and we hope you have a good one!
Thanks for the info. Aussie bloke in January 2020 appreciating this!
awesome video keep up the great work. I really enjoy watching your helpful videos. I appreciate you guys taking the time to make them. Happy New Year!
Just for a little extra safety when you slide the pumpkin on the bolts start a couple of nuts before you remove the jack. Thank you for the video! Perfect for the person doing this for the first time!!
Good tip!
Thanks, I was struggling to get my 8" carrier out, never done it before, couldn't find any instructions.
It was those copper washers, for some reason only half my retaining bolts had them but they held it on.
They are a pain to remove but once I worked off the five, it did come apart.
As an aside, didn't see any leaks from any of the bolts, with or without the washers.
I had a very thick black oil, like crude oil, 66 Mustang, likely original rear end gears.
Thanks for the tip on the washers, I was getting really stumped, nobody else mentions it.
When he said “That’s weird, it fit”! I laughed, it’s always Eerie, when things fit to well in these situations. Your like, shit did I forget something?
thanks for your videos
You are welcome!
I subbed. Probably the best how to videos about cars. You go into detail but don't get boring
Your videos are probably the best how to on tractors. You've helped me a lot.
This is on my list :) 🛠️
Put the burnout in the beginning of the next video. I like me some good old pony burnouts. Great video
Hey great video
Just stumbled on your channel
Thanks!
Jeff. Do a Crown Vic disc brake swap on that rear. Cheap and bolt on with minor modification of the axle tube flange. 4 wheel disc baby!
+Joe Marshall LOL we might just do that!
Excelente video
Thanks
This helped me a lot. Could you fill through the vent pipe on 69 8 inch? Thanks!
Yup. But it can be a little small. Better to fill through the axle or the actual side plug.
Those fancy exhaust clamps at 12:00...
Those are from my parts bin. If you want, I'll look into who's they are. 😁
ya'll better play the lottery, I have never had a center chunk slide right back on that easy lol Usually it seems like the studs have tweaked slightly so they always hold pressure as they side into the holes. still much nicer to have a ford 8" or 9" where you can swap from street to track gears in a hour or so. love ya'lls vids.
We tried the lottery...got nuthin'. So I guess we used up our luck on the rear axle. LOL
@@AutoRestoMod there were times when changin these i'd have taken that over a million dollars lol
I curse fluently in Ford, Chevy, Mopar, and some VW but I've never had one of those damn pumpkins slide in like that....you guys must be living right.
I have to pull my center section on my 9" to removal the racing spool. How heavy in your estimation Cam? I might rig up a holder of some sort on my other floor jack to help. Not looking forward to those dang copper washers on the studs at all.
Arounds 70 to 80 lbs.
@@AutoRestoMod Thank you !! I was hoping it would be 50-60 lbs. Thanks I will rig up my other floor jack to assist.
I often work on our altered on my own & I''m pretty weedy. I unbolt the pinion support & remove the pinion assembly, then bolt an L shape bracket that I fabbed between it & a small floor jack. Then I only have to break it loose & roll it forward. Not having the pinion on the main part means I can lift it up to my bench vice much easier. Didn't know about copper washers but not had any leaks. Good tip on filling from the axle end.
My least favorite part of this job is splitting the pumpkin from the axle housing, no gentle way to do this that won't mar a nice finish.
BTW I have an Eaton Truetrac waiting to go in my 69 Mach1 and it uses helical gears... no cones or plates.
Love your channel, I watch all your videos.
Thanks,
Allan
Use a stiff blade putty knife or 5-n-1 tool from the paint dept at Home Depot.
put the floor jack under the front of the third member and give it a little bit of lift up. you might have to give the jack handle a couple of aggressive waggles. Then clean up the mess because you forgot to put your drain pan in the right spot.
What size are those copper washers? You said "26/34ths" which equates to .764"...lol
HAHAHA! Well they are about that big (holding fingers up fairly close together). Summit sells them:
www.summitracing.com/parts/rat-5138?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-ratech&gclid=CI7r6uDdmNQCFUQlgQodt6kIZA
Highly recommend drill and tap a drain in the center section. Before you do make sure you have both 1/8" and 1/4" taps and plugs. Start small and test the fit. If you mess up on the 1/8" hole up you can step up and try again. If you find the need to force the carrier with a prying instrument (who doesn't?) do so above the oil line especially if you subscribe to the gasket installation. Copper washers... I smelt them down into bird shot and fire them into the previous guys ass. Man those things piss me off in that application.
I'm about to pull my 3rd member and am contemplating the added drain hole. I've heard it both ways on for and against. Any particular spot?
@@JoeyRizzo Last one I did I placed it off center of the ring gear on the bottom of the axle, just to be certain there was no chance of interference. Stepped drill bit makes the best hole, just don't go to far with one. The internet likes to over think a lot of things. The ability to drain and fill a differential means the oil will get changed at proper intervals.
I noticed that you didn't put any gasket sealer on it when you installed the new chunk. Is that typical of a 9-inch?
I don't like sealer on a rear axle. The risk of goo gumming up the works out weighs the benefits. There is a gasket that Quick Performance Sells called a "Lube Locker" that we like. www.quickperformance.com/Ford-9-LubeLocker-Premium-Gasket_p_21471.html
@@AutoRestoMod - Many thanks. I need to swap out some gears on a car I'm picking up tomorrow, and all I've really dealt with is a 8.8, and everyone just uses gray silicone for that.
in the ford 9 inch does the differentail oil chamber mix with the wheel bearings? are they sharing the same oil?
Yes. One way to eat up wheel bearings on a Ford 9 or 8 is to not keep up with the fluid fill on the rear axle.
The wheel bearings don't get any of the oil. It's on the outer side of the seal. How could it get oil if the seal is behind it? The bearings are sealed.
@@Someguy6571 Wrong. The wheel seal is on the outside of the bearing. Original bearings are roller, some new bearings may be the sealed type though. Just look at the parts diagram! The seal goes on the axle shaft before the bearing when you change one.
@@mstang2894 On my 1969 Tbird when I pulled the axle shafts the bearings where pressed onto the axle shafts. They were sealed bearings. The axle seal was pressed in behind the bearing. I have plenty of pictures of it if you want to see. Not trying to discredit what you said. Just going off what I saw when I took it apart. I also have pictures of the numbers casting too.
Didnt look like you put any sealer on the gasket.
When we are using the copper washers we typically don't use any sealer. The copper effectively seals the axle.
Using a chisel is not advised. Get a flat bladed screw driver and just work around the case and gently spread it open. It's what I did on my 69 T-Bird.
OK. While I see the logic, I prefer the chisel; as long as you use it correctly, the thinner edge can get between case and hosing easier.
I have used a thin, stiff blade, putty knife. You can use a 5-n-1 tool from Home Depot paint dept. It is stiff enough to be hammered and to also spread the parts. You aren't as apt to damage the case/housing. Thin is in, man.
If your not a knucklehead you aren’t gonna damage anything with a chisel. As long as the job gets done correctly it don’t matter what you use.
Those copper washers are totally unnecessary, and make it a real P.I.T.A. to remove the third member.
Use Permatex sealant for gear oil applications.
+Thirdgen83 Well, we agree on the PITA part. We like to keep things like Ford did it, had we not done, there would be a dude writing in saying that we forgot the copper washers. For the record you are probably right.
Ford did that for speed and economy. They weren't worried about the guy who had to remove it 40 years down the road. With a good gasket sealant, you'll never have a leak from those holes. I really enjoy your videos. Take care...
It's called a tri square not a mobile L
Yup.
@@AutoRestoMod Smiley face emoji inserted here - You're a good guy appreciate your videos truly - we'd be friends if we were in the same town, All I have are old Ford trucks and Mustangs, and one clean Squarebody - - - take care.
brown? yuck