How to port a chainsaw. Poulan 2150 porting how to stage 1
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- čas přidán 6. 03. 2022
- How to port a chainsaw. This a light tutorial to get started in porting. This is only stage one. This is only the first step in porting and there will be a stage two video.
This video is for entertainment purposes only. Should you try anything in this video please do so at your own risk. I am not responsible for any damage you may do to your own equipment. Please remember to use proper PPE, Personal Protective Equipment for the use of tools, especially power tools.
Tools for the job:
1/8" Shaft Carbide Burrs www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B083...
1/8" Shaft Diamond Bits www.amazon.ca/Yasumai-Diamond...
Mini 1/8" Die Grinder www.amazon.ca/Accusize-Miniat... - Jak na to + styl
That saw is still running strong a year or so later with a ton of use and abuse. I have hammered that thing hard. It has great compression and is a strong little saw. It's my go to saw it works so well. I have two more with new cylinders to port soon. It's time to experiment with new pipe designs 😎
Good video. Certainly aiding me towards my first attempt and agree completely with your views on "cheap saws" and their valuation
Thanks so much for the comment. Once the busy of summer calms down I will be re-visiting that saw and doing more to the cylinder to improve it even more. That saw is amazing after that port job and the custom pipe but there is quite a bit more performance left to unlock without much effort.
Sounds great thanks !!U get the exhaust opened up and that thing will be a monster ive got 5 of them love them all ive got 1 that is so old it dont even have a chain brake but i can put a newer side on it just wrong color !! U did a great job viding and showing again thank you !!! Im definitely going to try it on 1 of them !!
I built a custom pipe for it and it is a monster, I put a 36" bar on it at one point 😎 I have been collecting them over the summer, I have 3 more to work on.
I know this is an older video, but I can appreciate it because I’m a cheap bastard. All I buy is cheap saws so this gives me inspiration to soup up a couple of small blocks
Thank you so much for the awesome comment! This video is a bit over a year old I think, I'm going to revisit the saw as soon as I can make some time. It works so well it brings a giggle every time I run it. The custom pipe woke it up as well. It's more fun being a cheap bastard because anyone can go buy horsepower but it's more fun to unlock it for the least amount of money possible 💪 I have a couple shorts showing the saw in action, one of which I run the 36" bar on it 😁
You got me all hooked up on this video I’m not gonna say like I wish I could’ve seen more. What you’ve done but I can understand what you were doing. Nice work. I hope it’s gonna last a long time.
I have all kinds of chainsaws, but for some reason I’m kind of attached to this Poulan
Just got on P wild think for $35 lol all completed and it looks pretty clean. Have not tested yet, but I think it’s gonna do just fine.
Don't worry, I have at least 3 more of those poulan saws to work on and make more videos on the porting. You'll be able to see more details. Thanks so much for watching and the great comment. That saw in the video still runs like a champ, its my go to saw.
Good video. Im about to do my 20yo 2375. Thank you
Thanks so much for the comment, glad it may have helped you get started. You will really enjoy the finished product. There is still more one can do with those cylinders but even with that light job I did the saw is an absolute beast. Hopefully I will have the time in the next month or two to go back in and touch up the transfers a bit.
Did a timing advance on a pp5020 and the results were amazing. So I think it is good to pay attention to fly wheel position when tightening down tapered connection along with coil position to get a slight timing advance.
Definitely going to play with the advance on that saw. I have a few of them so I can keep one flywheel stock and have one that has no key to play with the timing 😎
I like my Wild Thing 2375
Good video man, thanks
Thank you so much for watching, I appreciate the support. I am planning on more porting in the future when I get the time so stay tuned 😉
I think poulan ,like anything else that's doesn't have an expensive price tag on it gets a bad name because " it doesn't have an expensive price tag on it" . I use the cheaper product mainly because it's all I realistically can afford but at the same time I've learned how to use it to pretty much get what I need done the same as the other but not quite as fast but who cares ! I get nothing for being fast . I found a cheap Chicago electric welder in the dumpster took it home plugged it in and it worked . It's not as smooth as a high dollar one is but I can with Abit more imagination and putting more thought into figuring something out ...weld anything from 16ga to 3/8 inch thick and if I absolutely had to I'd bet money I could stick 1\2 inch together and be confident it would hold . Now yes you've got to put more time into it but so what . When your doing for you one can do it. Understanding no you're not going to go weld on a pipeline and you're not taking your cheap saw out cutting trees with some big logging outfit we get that. Like the old saying goes " want to see what someone's made of? Put them in between a rock and hard place a tell them they gonna die if they don't figure something out " . Ill take everybody's cheap junk all day .
You are so right! I have a welder that's pretty much the twin to the cheap Chicago Electric flux core welder here in Canada and I have built and repaired so much with it I could not tell you all of it. I have done 1/4" with it no problem, it just takes multiple passes and some patience. I have welded some pretty thin crappy Chinese sheet metal as well. With the less expensive equipment, it has a lot more to do with the operators attitude than the price tag. I have a full collection of machines, most of them were someone else's garbage that I either trash picked or someone gifted me because they were going to toss it. In this new world of shortages and huge price increases, taking someone else's trash and turning it into treasure is the name of the game. Thank you so much for the awesome comment!! 👍👍👍
Best way to snug a clutch... revv it up and hit the chain brake 💪👍
Nothing wrong with that trick 👍👍👍👍 I'd have to swap another cover from one of my other saws to do it for that one... The chain brake is toast. But I will definitely use that trick. Thanks for a great comment 👍😄
@@patthesoundguy Thank you for showing, tips and tricks of the trade... that are fading
Good Idea on the silicone break grease. I was wondering what grease I could use never thought of that. I have some here I’ll try it.
Ya the only reason those saws get a bad rep is because they didn’t get tuned before being sold to the customer like a Stihl or Husky.
Easy to get parts for and they start easy,cut good.
They are pretty choked up from factory though due to emissions requirements.
Ya those are a 50hr saw where as the Poulan Pro ( and maybe other models?) say they are 125hr saws and I think it’s because the PP runs the nikasil or chrome cylinder.
On the aftermarket kits the cylinder is plated and the piston is just aluminum vs the other way around on a stock engine on those 2050/2150’s.
Did your saws cone with the spacer plate in the exhaust or do you know about it?
Mine both did and I talked to one of the engineers that built that saw and he said the spacer was to stop heat from transfering to the cylinder.
I’ve always left mine in because when they are removed there isn’t much area to make a nice seal for the muffler.
But having said that I just read somewhere that Poulan left that spacer out in later years so i’m guessing it was a cost saving thing.
Mine are both 36cc saws even though they say “42cc EPA” right on the sticker.
I think all this manufacturers had rules to follow on epa so they’d call a 33cc saw 42cc and vice versa. A little false advertizing you might say... lol
The 36cc saws are a 38mm piston the 42cc saws are 41.1mm.
I time mine a bit different than you do but I know how to get your numbers but what was your transfer heights so I can know what your blow down is?
I have one sitting right here but my wheel is on my little McCulloch i’m porting right now.
I left the transfers alone for now, but I am going to go back into that cylinder in the future for a stage 2. I will totally get the numbers on that stock cylinder. I have the old stock OEM cylinder on the bench I can get numbers from as well that came from the 2150 last year. The saw I did last year I used the aftermarket chromed cylinder. I have another chromed cylinder on the way from ebay so I can try some different numbers by just cutting on the pistons which are very cheap. When I go back into that saw I'm going to work the piston and transfers. The saw I did last year I spent a couple hours on just the piston and I really feel it made a huge difference. The stock piston is very different internally which is why I left it alone for now. I wanted to do a build that anyone could try. The next go is going to get more into it. I love sharing all of the information we all come up with.
@@patthesoundguy ya it’s fun stuff!
So many variables makes it interesting to see what does what.
One thing I noticed is that when I time my engine I shut the lights of and look for that first ray of light I don’t do it the way you do so that right there shows it’s hard to compare numbers and have them be the same between yours and mine.
I was looking at a video of some guys taking numbers with a feeler gauge so that could work good for intake and exhaust but not the transfers.
In the end as long as the builder does it the same way everytime that will keep the numbers accurate.
I have a 2050 I’ll be putting together with the amazon cylinder kit. I wan’t to try it bone stock first though then maybe port it.
I played with the feeler gauge some. When I actually timed the saw I had it darker and the first bit of light was much tighter. I really want to find the right size for the feeler gauges to get better consistency.
That metal spacer was in both this saw and the slightly newer one I did last year. It's no problem pulling it out for the exhaust seal, seems to be enough surface there. The aftermarket chromed cylinder did not have it, they had the port the same size as if it was there for the most part.
@@patthesoundguy ya like they molded that spacer into the new cylinders.
My aftermarket kit is the same way. Dual ring vs single as well
Hello, I have a question because I would like to do such porting myself. And I have a question whether it is necessary to undercut the piston or maybe it will work well on the original piston .😊
The beautiful thing is you can experiment with all of that to see what happens. You can do some port cleanup work first and not change any port timing to start, and add the cats tongue texture to all of the intake and port match everything. You can leave the piston alone and see what happens 👍👍 It's all about trying things and seeing what results you get. You can also start with a muffler mod. Then if you want to try making a degree wheel and see what the numbers are then you can try a little cutting on ports. I cut the piston to get more intake duration. I could have cut the floor of the intake port but cutting the piston was so much easier. It really gave the saw the good bottom end crack when I pull the trigger.
@@patthesoundguy Great, thanks very much for your help. I will tell you that I made the muffler after the muffler made by Novice Lumberjack. And let me tell you, I really gained a lot of power. You can feel the increase in torque as you cut the wood. I also played with the ignition, sped it up a bit, but I will refine it further. I like these chainsaws very much, I have never done such porting and tuning, but when these modifications bring results, I am satisfied. best regards and thank you for your help👋
Without checking #s, do you think that taking the lip off from the stock cyl exhaust port (@ 24:50) would make a difference On a stock saw?
Ps. Really enjoy your videos!
From my experience when I was doing two stroke tuning on Honda scooters, I wouldn't just go raising the exhaust on a cylinder like that. You may not like the results. It can rob you of low end and could make the engine lazy feeling if you raise the exhaust roof too much without doing anything else.
Thanks so much for watching! I hope to be getting some more content out soon. I have been so busy over the past months I haven't been able to film a darn thing. I plan to go back into that 2150 again to touch up the transfers. That saw has been performing so well and I know I can get more out of it.
@@patthesoundguy words of wisdom! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience and the lighting quick reply. Much appreciated!
That chainsaw doesn't have shock absorbers. How can you work with her?
I ran it for a few hours for the first time in a couple months and I didn't have an issue not having antivibe. If I was working professionally I would need a proper pro saw but for the smaller amount I work with the Poulan I'm happy
FROM someone who completely DO NOT KNOW much about engine....AFTER you get all those numbers - WHAT DO YOU DO with 'em? and HOW do you do it! I've watched few vids on getting those numbers BUT I have NOT seen ANYONE explain WHAT TO DO with "em
That's a fantastic question! I have to apologize, I thought I had put more footage of the actual grinding on the ports. The whole thing is all about duration... Which is how long the ports are open. So all I did was take 1.5mm or so out of the top of the exhaust port to raise it. That extends the amount of time the exhaust is open and also opens the exhaust port a bit earlier to send the exhaust out faster. And to get the intake to stay open longer you either remove some material from the bottom of the intake port or just remove some material from the piston skirt, which is what I did with this saw. I simply traced the shape of the intake port and removed the amount needed to get the extra duration I wanted. I stuck to the premise of how Donny Walker explained to take the duration to about 160 degrees on some saws and leave the transfer ports alone and I have had great luck with those poulans doing just that. I could get more out of it by touching up the transfers some but I'm leaving that for now because the saw is so amazing the way it is. Here is a short showing what doing some of the grinding looks like. I will see if I can dig up the missing footage of how the grinding goes. czcams.com/users/shortszBuPKpzqEuk?feature=share stay tuned I will have some more porting videos soon.
Feel free to message me on my Instagram @patthesoundguy if you want to chat more about the process.
Another great channel to get some great insight into porting saws is my buddy the Novice Lumberjack. Make sure you tell him I sent you, he has a great channel.
I may have done it wrong but when I opened the port on my saw it killed the power and I may not have it tuned right or chain to hungry but I kinda wish I left it stock
Which port did you open up? You may have just need to get it tuned up. Sometimes you may need to lean it out or richen it up depending on what's happening. I would warm it up to operating temps and then drop a new plug in it and run it in the wood for a minute or two and then read the plug. Read the plug at the the very base of the porcelain down inside the plug. If the ring is white it's lean of it's really really dark it's rich. That would be where I would start to troubleshoot. It might also be a good plan to check the saw for air leaks with some sort of spray, like WD-40 or brake clean can work as well to spray around in intake tract to see if the idle changes. Also you could need to mod the exhaust or build a pipe to get it to breathe right. I made the Iron Horse pipe for that saw after I got it running, because it wasn't running well with the stock muffler. This porting stuff can take a bunch of experimentation to get something to make good power. Don't worry you'll get working better. 👍
I am going to go a leak down test soon I pulled the cover and ran it in wood just to be able to see and adjust it better and had fuel spitting back at me so I thought it was rich I played with the screws for an hour on the tailgate and in the wood I put the exhaust screen back in and tuned some more got a little better only other mod I did was a 3/8 hole in the middle just under the bolts and I did the exhaust just like you it's a poulan wild thing there heads are the same as far as I can tell didnt bother with the intake may need new carb gaskets as I just cleaned it and could have damaged it or the diagram I don't think so but I am not Gunna give up on it I know there parts are fairly cheap and when I got cash to spare I can always make it stock but I would like to learn and have a light 18in saw with some power for the truck and I am not rich so a cheap one is my only option thanks you for the help I'll let you know if I figure it out or go back to stock I do like the way it runs and sounds has good power in the first few inches then just no torque and it's dug fir it's tight grain and big rounds but still just dug fir
@@zachwebb6879 I just got the gauge for carbs to make a leak down test kit, can't wait. The great thing about those is like you say how cheap the parts are... I got a whole top end for my saw for $35 shipped Canadian. I like working with that Poulan for that very reason. I have a nice Stihl 024av and other saws but that green thing is my main go to saw right now.
I got my grandfathers Stihl 034 he had a big bore kit ported and a larger model carb just on it and I love it for falling and anything over 24ins cuts fir like warm butter and screams a beautiful sound just wants to rattle your arms off and is cold blooded and although it's fun I believe there can be to much tool for the job and just for limbs and fire wood a light saw will do fine but and gear head knows the urge to make more power
@patthesoundguy I did a compression check and it's down below 90 lbs I am Gunna do a leak down on it and if that checks out I think she's gonna be sitting on the shelf for a while I don't want to throw her away dam
Ps and just subscribed to your channel
If you like, you can do the same I’d like to get into a whole bunch of my chainsaws, but have too many projects for now. What can I say just that kind of guy
And of course, health is not yet in top shape
But I’m working on it
I'm working on getting my shop built, I have no place to work on anything at the moment, but as soon as my new building goes up I'll be churning out more saw videos. I have too many projects on the go as well 😉