Video

@@tonycooper3616 So glad I was able to save you some headaches 👍👍

@@RobBot34 I only showed how to remove the limiter caps, it doesn't take long...

Thank you so much! I'm very excited! The exam was the first test/exam type thing I have done since June of 1996 so I was quite nervous and studied so very hard.

@@Wadejm533 yes this is a full replacement of the brake material. If you aren't missing any parts you will have full brakes when you are done. Thank you so much for the comment. 👍

@@patthesoundguy will I have to do both sides?

Do you mean both brake pucks or pads? There is an inner and an outer and it's probably best to replace them both if they are worn out, It would be good to go through all of the parts and clean the caliper up and clean the pins like I do in the video, just in case everything being seized in place is part of your issue.

@patthesoundguy no. I mean both back tires, do they brakes.

@Wadejm533 there is only one brake on the side of the trans axle that works both wheels.

Back then it was close to $1,000 Canadian so not cheap. If he had checked the oil and changed it when he was supposed to it would have lasted longer than 3 years that's for sure

They are audio pipe if that also helps

What you seek is called a re-cone kit... It will have new voice coil and the paper cone and new surround and such. It takes some skill and practice to do that job if a kit is available for those woofers. It can be done DIY with videos and there are websites that sell everything to make it happen. I would see if there is someone near you that re-cones speakers, people that do it all the time can often measure the broken parts to know what generic kit can be used. Depending on the woofer it may be more cost effective to replace them. The most common cause of woofer failure is running the amp into clip which makes square waves which makes the coil heat up and fail.

I use high temp silicone brake grease on the pins, antiseize doesn't work on moving parts they gum up.

Yup powdered graphite should work really well too.

It definitely might work. If it is plastic you need to rough up where the glue needs to go and then it can hold very well. I repaired my plastic ID card for work with this trick the other day. Roughed the plastic up, put some glue on the crack in the hole for the lanyard and put some baking soda on it, good as new

@@patthesoundguy thanks for the tip dude

My pleasure, hope it works for you. 😃

Those flapper disks are one great invention. I use them for so many jobs now.

Thanks so much 👍

I have been without a workshop since last July so I haven't been able to really make videos. The shop should be over the next month or so I hope. Then I will be making lots more content

Trust me it actually sounded like a new woofer but the shit sound you heard was the phone microphone crapping out from the extreme sound pressure levels that it could not handle whatsoever 😉 When that cabinet got returned to the rental shop at the end of the summer they continued to run it for a long time before they got around to putting the replacement driver in.

I've tried it and it's nothing compared to having it hooked up to the charger... It will clean the carb and remove some corrosion but you have to soak it for quite a while where it's super clean and corrosion free in 35 seconds on the power supply. The jets and other brass components come out with zero build up or contamination on them when you use the power and electropolish.

@@patthesoundguy thanks for reply. Good to know

Thank you so much for the kind comment, I'm so very glad I was able to help you save money.

That's a great question... I don't know for sure because I haven't had a set in my hands, but from what I experienced from working with the FRS version they should work because I was able to change my FRS to VHF with some success because I had the software unlocked. But there is no way to know for sure without trying it with the MURS version.

That's entirely up to you... A nylon brush will not be as harsh on the carpet

It depends on how and where you want to repair on a bumper. If you want to attach the tabs that the clips go through Im not sure I would recommend that if it's a mission critical location where the repair has to hold the weight of the bumper. Some types of bumper plastic might not work well with the super glue. It could work on some types of plastic, like you said you sand it really well. It might be better repaired by plastic welding and melting things together with extra plastic material.

​thanks for the reply its actually a rear diffuser made of fibreglass. The clips are on they are just not the right profile of the original i was hoping to beef them up using your method@@patthesoundguy

@@mehavfigetwehmineed Fibreglass takes the glue and baking soda extremely well if you sand it some. I have repaired my surf board with great success

I bought mine at Home Depot here in Canada. You can also get them on Amazon

Sure, it doesn't even have to be a 3/8... It's whatever random O-ring you can find that you can stretch/roll over the top of the knob that will fit and put the friction on it that won't break from being too right. It's not an exact science type of deal. I just grabbed an O-ring out of my kit that fit. You can just head to the plumbing section at the hardware store and buy an assortment package of O-rings for like a dollar or two, you also might find a cheap package at the automotive parts store. Home depot or similar store will usually have a fastener section that has tons of little drawers full of little bits and pieces like O-rings that you can buy just one, so you can test out what size works and buy a few. Hope this helps

As long as it's not a million degrees below freezing and the sun is shining nice out it should still work ok

Thank you so much! The sad thing is when I made those the price on the snakes were like $12 USD and now they are $40 I think... I would now just buy a box of the goods Belden grey 24/2 cable with foil shield and drain to make those.

@@patthesoundguy Yes, I get you. I have more multi-channel cables to buy, but as you know they are very expensive these days with quality connectors and quality shielded wire. Years ago I had the energy to make my own cables with Neutrik and/or Switchcraft, but I don't really have the time to do that anymore, so there's always an endless quest to find quality cables at a decent price. I need longer runs also compared to years ago since I moved all my outboard gear behind the console, which requires longer runs and I also need to make sure I have quality shielded cable that is low capacitance. Always fun chatting with another audio guy. Phil NYC / Jersey Shore area

@@uptownphotography So great to hear from you, I'm further north up the coast in Nova Scotia

@@patthesoundguy Thanks and very nice on this end chatting with you as well. You live in a very nice area. I never been that far north but when I see your area in movies etc it looks really nice. Thanks... Phil

@@uptownphotography Have you watched Sullivan's Crossing? That cabin is down the road from from where I grew up and I used to go to and stay in that cabin as a kid, it's a Boy Scout cabin. Also off of that same road but the opposite end is the trailer park where the first season of the trailer park boys was filmed

Sorry I wish it was that simple... What this mod does is allow you to use frequencies other than FRS 1-16. It also allows the use on repeaters, which I guess if you have a repeater then it would increase the range. Those radios are a solid 2 watts so the range is actually pretty decent. I have one on my belt right now. I have been daily driving them for quite a while where I work on the repeater. They have the best battery life. With light transmitting and receiving all day I get a week and half on a charge.

So many uses for this trick it's crazy.

Sure do, as much as you need to get the build up of material you need.

@@patthesoundguy very cool thank you for the quick reply. I have another quick question, do you ever add in any type of fabrics or cloth to add strength or build it up quicker?

Use Gorilla tape then glue over it

Yeah don't do that... As soon as the adhesive on the tape fails you have a mess on your hands. That's just using tape as a repair not adding any strength other than the tape adhesive. Mythbusters lifted a station wagon with two drops of super glue on 2 pies of 2 inch hitch tube, gorilla tape can't do that.

YES. It is commonly done.

Thank you for watching and leaving a great comment 👍 That saw is still running strong, I love running it.

When you say not turning over, do you mean the engine spins but doesn't start?

@@patthesoundguy yes I have new gas everything click like there supposed too but doesn't start

@@tonymarquez5079 did you confirm the fuel pump is working?

@@patthesoundguy fuel pump is working the gas is going thru all the lines to the carburetor getting spark and compression but not start

@@tonymarquez5079 how about the solenoid on the carb? Does the new carb have one and is it working?

That's a great question... All that's happening is the belt is burning by the sounds of it. When the belt is a little too short it will grab partially when you disengage the auger and the small amount of friction on the drive pulley on the engine the belt is constantly slipping and it heats the belt up. It won't hurt the machine it will just burn the belt out faster. It's a bit of a safety concern so keep hands, arms feet and legs out of the auger and impeller assemblies. To prolong the life of the 35" belt avoid letting the machine sit without the auger engaged that will stop the burning. So start the machine and keep the handle down as soon it's running. And if you need it to sit for any period of time, hold the handle down and if you can't just shut it down for a bit until you need to go again. You can actually go to the Husqvarna website and get the parts list, that should give you the exact part number, it's probably the 35.4" belt because usually a ¼" often won't hurt anything and you can often get away with that small difference in length.

@@patthesoundguy thanks for your detailed reply! I since went to a local shop that was closed on the weekend and got the correct belt. The packaging does not say the size and I forgot to measure it but I checked online and multiple sources say 35.25” but I did see one or two that state 35.4” for the same part number! The guy at the shop told me you don’t have to be off by much for it not to work right. I put the new belt on and it now works properly and there is no more burning smell! The 35” belt had only been used for about 5 minutes and it was already damaged so I just cut it off as I could no longer return it in the condition it was in!

I have been using that trick to clean up old nasty carpeted speakers for 23 years... Never had an issue.

What about a nylon wire brush?

@@realtruenorth That works very well also 👍👍👍👍

@@patthesoundguy Ok, thanks

So glad I could lend a hand! 👍

I love that saw! It's still working perfectly. It has a place right next to my ported Poulan. I take both when I take saws out.

It's still perfect! I use it often. I get to hear it on a handheld, because it will leave the wife in the vehicle and go into the grocery store and ask her what she wants lol. The sound quality is so very good on that radio I can hardly believe it.