LML Duramax Up-pipe Downpipe Replacement
Vložit
- čas přidán 2. 03. 2024
- Hello viewers, this video goes through the steps of replacing the failure-prone stock Silverado LML Duramax up-pipe and restrictive stock downpipe with an aftermarket setup. It's not too bad a job, but there are a lot of steps and approaching it with a certain sequence can save you some time and mess in your garage/shop. This video also talks about cleaning up plumbing in the engine bay to make your LML more reliable with less exhaust and coolant leakpoints. Thanks to @TruckMaster for the tip about blocking off the 9th injector feed, that is a great idea.
Crazy informative. Thank you for sharing!
Good information, considering this for mine. Curious as to what part of the country are you located.
any part number for the block off plate under the up pipe?
15 and 16 had lml
They make the puller for the heater core hose
What’s this kit for?? It’s kinda confusing on the website what exactly this kit is called…..
But is the considered the PVC reroute that goes behind the intake so it doesn’t recycle into the engine again???
Hello, if you mean the coolant bypass kit, it plugs off several unused coolant supply/return sources that are no longer used once the EGR is pulled. One is at the rear of the block under the turbo and the other is on the RH side of the engine near the fuel filter. I feel it's a more bulletproof solution than the multi-crimp hose mess I showed in the video. I've been getting them from John C Garage: www.johncgaragepa.com/product-page/lml-coolant-bypass-kit
Did you use a block plate for the part of the up pipe that got deleted with the PPE up pipe? The solution wasn't addressed when comparing the two up pipes
Hello, so maybe this wasn't clear in the video. EGR had already long been pulled on this truck, so the stock up-pipe had a blocker plate and just emptiness on the other side of it (no EGR). In the video I was doing some engine compartment cleanup and since there is no EGR, eliminating that unused leg in the stock uppipe to prevent a future bellows blowout down the road and replacing with a bulletproof PPE LB7 setup.
@StevesFarmShop ok, cool. I have that same up pipe, but I went with a PPE down pipe as well. Pulling the stock up pipe tonight, so I'll need to order a block plate for the area that gets deleted from the PPE one, right?
Hi, if you're going to keep the EGR, then yes I suppose. As long as you're in that deep already though, you might want to just pull the EGR. They sell kits online with the Y bridge blocker and coolant reroute hoses. It really cleans things up and makes access easier to other stuff once it's out of there. Note, I think you'll need a tune whether you pull or block it. You probably know that already.
@@StevesFarmShop yes sir, I have a tuning module from EFI live. Now, to start finding those kits you told me about haha
Does the heat shield have to come off to get the pipe out, the middle bolt I can't even feel it
Hello, yes I don't think the downpipe will come out of there with the heat shield attached. If it can, it will be a real fight. If you watch until later in the video you can see the old and new downpipes side by side. You can sort of see where that center heat shield bolt tab is, slightly above and behind the 9th injector port. It is probably the worst one to reach. I think I usually take this one off from the fenderwell, but you might be able to reach down from above to at least help you find where it is the first time. I used a flex head ratcheting wrench to get those out. Hope you're able able to get it, it's a crappy job with the body on.
@@StevesFarmShop thank you I did get the bolt out and with a strap did pull it out. Now the bad part the top up pipes bolts . Did you go from the top or the wheel well.
Hello, glad you got your downpipe out. For the top up pipe bolts, personally I think it's easier to do them from the wheel well. I don't have a topside creeper and find that the turbo outlet sort of overhangs the pedestal and makes that hardware hard to see from the top. Two things though, I can't remember if I said this in the video... If you're in the rust belt, soak the crap out of them with a good penetrant before really leaning into it. Breaking off those bolts in the pedestal will make for a bad day! It means pulling the turbo to drill and for me the whole turbo pull job with body on takes 6-8 hours. The other thing, that EGR coolant supply tube behind the up pipe will block access to 1-2 of those bolts. You have to remove the hold down bolt and pull that tube out of there first. I've found it easiest to pull up on it from the engine bay with a prybar while twisting. If it's never been out before, it probably won't come out without twisting. If your truck doesn't have an EGR anymore, that tube doesn't have to go back in. You can plug it off with one of the plugs like the Fleece one in the video, but you'll need the Wherli / John C Garage Coolant reroute kit to connect the heater core to T-stat housing back up. Good luck with your project.
@@thomaspaul929I did this job last week. From the top it’s easier. But u gotta have the turbo heat shield off. I cut shield in two pieces and folded it to get it out. Then I can feel the bolts and remove. Get a folding ratchet driver, it helps a lot w this job.
I'm first forever