Duramax up-pipe removal tricks and tips
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- čas přidán 28. 10. 2017
- Removing the up-pipes on a duramax can be a difficult and intensive project. Here are a few tips on the best way to remove the pipes, and what can happen in worst case scenario.
Sinister Diesel Up-pipes link: sinisterdiesel.com/i-18954608...
Wanna ask questions, share your build or contact me? Shoot me an email at southernsilveradomail@gmail.com, and I will respond as soon as I am able to!
*Please note that I am not liable for any damage done during YOUR installation process - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I’ve learned before doing the job is that heat is your number one friend. I religiously sprayed the bolts with PB Blaster every day for 30 days straight after driving while it’s hot. (Yes it’s overkill probably)
But made bolt removal a lot easier and less nerve wracking. We removed the bolts right after we got the truck up to temp and started the removal immediately (sprayed pb blaster on)
I just do the down pipes on these things when the engine is up to operating temp. Learned that years ago! Never have had a bolt break off in a manifold, up pipe. Nothing! Just some fyi for the person attempting to do it there selfs.
Yes sir!
Do you still spray with penetrating oil or is that not need when up to temp?
Bump @@michaelpetersbamf8311
Lifting the cab up a few inches is a big help
Great video. Helped a lot. Thank you.
I recently changed the turbo on my 2009 Duramax. Throughout the removal procedure, I broke some bolts on the bottom manifold flanges. Now for some of you that run into this problem, the easiest way I got mine out was with my plasma cutter. The heat really helps break the bond in the threads and I used an easy-out to pull them out. No damage to the flange threads either:)
A plasma cutter ? What did you do with that ?
@@jasonjackson329 I pierced a hole through the broken stud on the manifold and used my easy out afterwards. All of the broken studs came out clean.
@@christianhanseman4726 ah ok ok. I was thinking maybe a plasma cutter would be too much to stuck in that area and use
Looking to do an EGR delete on my LBZ. This was very helpful. Thank you!
Someone bought out every auto parts store of the red wire looms lol
Excellent video
Hey man. Im looking for that oring on the 90 stainless bypass from the top of the thermostat to egr cooler cannot seem to find it nor a match with the kits on bought any ideas
Would it help oxy/acetyl and heat the bolt before meting point ?
Brother make a video of the turbo removal
I need the down pipe that comes off the back of the turbo on a 2003 6.6 duramax? I did get all the bolts out
Can you get the turbo out without taking the exhaust manifold bolts on the driver side off? I’m kinda concerned that I won’t be able to get that oil to pipe off from the underneath there.
What did you do with the egr valve temp sensor?
if you delete the up tube what can you use to cover that top part?
I soaked mine down with PB blaster all came out fine
I would like to delete my egr but can’t get a good parts list as trying to get a delete kit is turning out to be impossible. Can you help me on parts for this thank you. 2006 lbz.
Kroil works amazing
My buddy 7 days in a row sprayed his in the morning and night, all bolts came out with minimal effort
Where can I buy the egr delete pipe?
I should have watched this video BEFORE my ratchet fell down the open exhaust pipe...
No doubt! Cover the exhaust 😅
Use a magnet 🧲
Where did you get all your red sleeves for all your wiring and tubing??
wiring loom? any parts store
I guess I was blessed got them all out without issue. How I'd your spacing with that sinister up pipe? I just put a stock looking one with a 3" down pipe I really don't have any clearance. I don't think that I could use this one the that down pipe.
MTRUNK 85 Everything fits like it should surprisingly. The up-pipes really made a big difference in exhaust flow but mainly the tone got a lot deeper. My truck now does not sound like a normal duramax in the slightest.
Mine sounds mean now but my dpsp5 is not working the pre crimped pins were to small and pulled out at first go I will be looking at that first. Hope to get some video up soon.
Doing head gaskets on mine this video helped if any one has any other tips for me id appreciate it thanks
Remove the cab....
If you have to remove the other side I’d replace it with a new one and new bolts with anti seize
My local diesel shop lifts the cab off the chassis anytime they have to work on the rear of the engine.
thats pretty easy to do...except mines a repo truck and has wires and hoses coming out of the cab makes it hard to work on my truck sometimes
Totally....
Don't bother doing that job with the cab in place
Yo, just did this job without lifting my cab. Used an induction coil gun to heat up the up-pipe bolts, used the Astro ONYX compact right angle impact gun. Zipped all the bolts out. My Astro impact is the 1/2 drive version so I used a half inch to 3/8ths adapter and used a short 12 point 12mm socket. Gotta use impacts on these bolts. It's shocks them loose instead of twisting them and breaking them off from constant torque that's applied with a regular breaker bar.
@@saltysteel3996 What a great tip man on the tool man. They sell a 3/8" drive also, which I may end up getting - pneumatic impact, heat, and penetrating fluid - best chance there is at keeping the bolts in tact.
I'm about to tackle this job myself. I'm going to be replacing the manifolds and up pipes simultaneously. I was going to spray liquid wrench on the night before and about 1 or 2 hours before starting the job then during the job heat the bolts up just a little with a torch tap on the head with small hammer then try to pull the bolts out. Do you think that is a good strategy or do you not recommend doing that?
Nathan Hengst That sounds like a sound strategy to me sir. Any little bit will help. Another thing you can do to try and prevent the bolts from breaking is to screw it in a little after a couple of turns out. Working the bolt back and forth like this seems to help with loosening the rust on the bolt. It also wouldn’t hurt to have a friend come to help mainly because another set of hands is always nice. Good luck bud and I hope everything goes good for you!
Hey there. I have a problem with my duramax drinking and blowing bcc steam. No signs of anything on the ground. Drinks almost 2 gallons a day. Its holding pressure in the coolant system. Idk what to do. Been fighting this for about a yr. I have replaced my oil cooler. Water pump doesn't have anything coming out of the weep hole so I'd say w pump is ok.
Any suggestions?
THANKS
RL
Do you think heating up the bolts before trying to remove them will lesson the chance of them breaking? At least the ones I can safely get heat on.
Trukin Timmer Duramax To be honest I think any little trick like that will help. I did not try that because I do not have tools to go that route. When taking them out it asks seemed best to back out the bolts and then run them back in to clean out the threads and take some of the pressure off little by little.
This. Run them out a little bit, then run them back in and repeat until you feel the resistance drop by a noticeable amount. The real trick is to not get impatient and force out a bolt that is being stubborn.
How many miles were on the truck at the time of the project?
Jr 150,000 miles were on the truck, and it come from a salt free state.
Can you add a link to the sinister up pipe? Having trouble finding it. Thanks!
chris friis I will add the link to the video later when I am able too, but in the mean time here is the up-pipes. Keep in mind that if you plan on doing an EGR delete that Sinister makes a kit including the passenger side pipe.
sinisterdiesel.com/i-18954608-sinister-diesel-up-pipe-kit-for-gm-duramax-2001-2010-6-6l.html
forgive me. I'm brand new to diesel mods. I already have egr blocker plates but i want to get rid of the cooler and valve and all that extra junk.So I'm just trying to figure out what all i need. i can't find any full egr delete videos for my LML. Thanks for your help!
chris friis No problem. I have never looked for LML delete videos mainly because I’ve never owned one. The EGR deletes on the older trucks really are not that bad. So I imagine it isn’t too difficult to do, and I know for a fact that Sinister Diesel sends an instruction sheet with their kits that is easy to follow.
chris friis you need a y bridge kit from hsp or wcfab. They make the best kits. Getting ready to do mine with p/s up pipe and down pipe.
chris friis yt? ! ! Uho b x shoo hxj m cp chk cp cull 'll yin 59t gg pm tyt6 it ut8 th gvb xvbxccccygf tv bff 76
What about the tune
What is the name of the pipe that replaces the Y pipe
Lb7 up pipe
Is it a similar process for l5p?
not at all
Best penetrating oil- acetone and automatic transmission fluid 50/50
Old Gringo there was tests done, seafoam deep creep still beat out everything
We call it diesel Piss in the Army, 50/50 JP8(diesel)/ dextron 6 or OHT (any hydraulic fluid will do in a pinch). Applied liberally and preferably with heat we usually have no issues.
I'm stuck. My down pipe is loose and I took my uppipe loose and can't get either one out 1st. Does the uppipe go out the top side or the bottom side
On really stuck ones I pull the transmission out to get them with an impact
I was thinking the same thing. As long as you leave it on the stand it doesn't take long and 1 person can do it.
Definitely wish I watched this before breaking the exact same bolt
How did you end up getting the broken bolt out ?
I removed and rebuilt the turbo while it was out. drilled out the center of the bolt starting with a small drill bit and working up until almost the bolts size and was able to weaken it enough that I could spin it out in reverse with the drill bit. It's alot of work
@@mywifesaidno2576 dammm sounds like you spent quite a bit of time on it then. I’m guessing removing the turbo is the only way to get the broken bolts out ?
My mechanic says just drive it, when it’s good and hot get a wrench on em and they’ll turn right out...
What size 12 point socket
12mm
Will heating the bolts with a blow torch help loosen them?
You'll get the same effect by running the engine and doing the job when it's HOT.
That won't be the last one he breaks off. I broke 5 ot of 18. They start moving easy then they hget hard again and break. The ones that come out are missing threads. Lucky mine are all sticking out far enough to put nuts on them and hit them with a welder. Then hopefully finish twisting them out. Plan on buying all new bolts. 240K miles. I bought a new turbo, oil feed, drain, starter, etc. I will not be taking these off ever again hopefully.
What year duramax? Trying this on my 2015 and struggling on those bolts
colton ward This is on a 2006 LBZ Duramax, but the pipe styles should be the same on all year Duramax’s from my understanding. Just make sure not to rush and break any bolts off.
Yea I'm pretty sure the bolts on mine stripped..... mine is a regular 12mm on the 2015. I didn't spray it before removing dumb ass mistake. The ones I sprayed before hand came out like nothing
colton ward I hate to hear that bud. Luckily you got some out so now you don’t have to deal with only a couple. Where are the ones located that you think are rounded off?
Passenger side. I'm doing 3 inch down pipe, the up pipes, egr delete with sdp high flow y bridge jot
colton ward That set up will really make the engine breath and increase longevity. I hope you’re able to get the bolts out without too much more hassle. Good luck bud.
Do I have to get EGR Delete plate if I get the up pipe
ni sug If you buy the Up pipes that doesn’t have the small section for the EGR you don’t have to buy a blocker plate, but you will have to buy the plates that cover the holes for where it enters into the intercooler pipe. It’s two plates that go on the bottom, or you could buy a whole new intercooler tube that doesn’t have holes. Email me at southernsilveradomail@gmail.com and I’ll email you back links for some of the best kits.
Very helpful tips. Look like every uninstall I've seen one of those bolts break. Just got my for LBZ Duramax. Want to piggy back off ni sung question for clarification and question of my own. Eliminating the bridge/pipe that goes to the egr cooler I would still need blocker plates for the egr cooler and intercooler, right? What are your thoughts of cutting that part and welding it shut? What you think about sinister egr blocker plate kits? Have suggestions. What are your thoughts/feedback on CAT fuel kit vs FASS Lift Pump Kit?
cxvasqu What I would recommend doing now cause it’s been awhile since my delete. I should’ve went ahead and bought the intercooler pipes that were smooth so no blocker plates would be needed. They look and flow a lot better than the stock ones. As for the CAT fuel filter vs FASS, I would do both of them. Many people only do one or the other; however think of the amount of fuel that the cat filter flows on top of adding a lift pump to separate water and air out of the fuel. It will increase the cleanliness of the fuel and make more power and longer lasting fuel components.
Appreciate your advice. New to the diesel game but done my research. This egr thing is the main one that has me going back and forth. I was considering the egr delete kit from Sinister because it's more budget friendly than a full delete of the egr cooler. But I know sometimes that can bite you in the ass in the end and cost you more.
So you're recommending taking the egr cooler out completely and adding the LB7 up pipe?
What made you wish you didn't do the blocker plates do for the egr cooler and intercooler? Thanks again
cxvasqu if you plan on deleting it save the bucks and buy the entire kit. I went short by not buying the up pipes left me stranded on the way home.8 hour drive. Do it right one never go wrong
Did you have to loosen the motor mounts at all
No, you can loosen the transmission mount bolts to help create another inch or so between the firewall and back of motor.
@@BoggiestBog that makes sense thanks
@@grathlocklll5741 be careful when you're screwing them back in. Gotta make sure the bracket holes are lined up just perfect with the transmission holes, or you could cross thread them. I had a hell of a time putting them back in. Good luck.
@Tyler-qd3ie thanks for the heads up big dog
Supposedly the copper antiseize should work better
What size 12 pt socket are the uppipe bolts?
12mm on lbz
I think I'll just try to plug the egr tube and weld a plate to its openig. Too much of a chance for shit to go wrong. I fckn hate breaking bolts especially in a confined spot like that
It’s definitely got me very worried bout taking on this job
I did a full egr delete. Lb7 uppipe/ 3inch down. Solid y bridge. Wasn't too hard. The bolts came out easy. Word of advice: spend the money for quality parts. The cheap shit on eBay won't fit without making major modifications to make them fit. I bought the cheap stuff and ended up having to scrap it and get the real deal. I had to get mbrp down and replacement lb7 uppipe from sinister diesel. The downpipe didn't fit real easily- i think i should of got one for an lb7 instead of an lly since I changed the uppipe to lb7. It fit with some persuasion but I would be a little more confident about it if it went in a little easier. It works though. Sounds great. 5 inch straight exhaust from magnaflow and efi live heavy tow engine and trans tune. My neighbors aren't too happy.
Also replaced the turbo mouthpiece for an upgraded one without the resonator hole.
@@tripp121283 ahh nice. I bet it does sound good. I’ve got a LML. And really it’s my 1st so I’m getting crash course as we speak. I agree it’s better to spend the money upfront. I’ve been there and done that. No fun and always bites you in the ass. I’ve got few things done lucky prior owner did them. But I’ve been looking around and doing the pipes cause that seems to be the biggest and best improvement besides tuning. But that 1 pipe everyone keeps saying bolts break has definitely got me concerned. As I’ll be done all this in my driveway. lol no shops Mostly cause I like doing stuff myself and shop rates tend to be high and aren’t that great
@@jasonjackson329 yeah I did it in the mud and snow. I took the wheel well off and did most of the lower stuff sitting on a log. The trans dipstick I had to crawl under to get. I put logs around the front and sides so I could stand over the engine. Most of it I ended up having to lay on my stomach on top of the motor to reach down the firewall. I watched truckmaster and he used one of those ratchets that swivel on the end of the handle, or they bend 90°. Saved me so much time. Just take your time. Its relatively easy but it takes some time.
I don't see how you could torch most of them, wires and oil everywhere the ones up top are mfer , the driver side up pipe even loose has a hard line locking it in , doing the turbo , up pipes and manifold at the sametime definitely an involved process
Basically what you’re saying is one of your steps may have to be pulled the cab off the frame that’s what I’d be thinking about
Pb Blaster😂😂 I call that liquid hope
Kroil, by Kano Laboratories. Give it time.
Dude a little torch is your best friend, if you heat these fuckers up and then take a flat chisel and beat around the bolt, they come out clean as fuck, 100% agree about penetrating oil. But add heat and vibration. On the top up-pipe bolts I had to apply pressure to the bolt and beat around the bolt while applying loosing force. If you follow those steps you won’t break a bolt
How the hell do you get the driver's side bolts out on the turbo pedestal? The bottom one is obstructed by the heat shield bracket. FML haha
Run it hot then spray some nut buster on it and let it set
This job will test your sanity on the lml. There are a few tricks that are out there that will keep you from beating up your wife or kicking your dog, but my advice, pay somebody to do it. The up pipe they sent me had a flex joint and was not the solid like one that I thought I was purchasing, so I chose to go with just the blocker plate on the up pipe. I tore it apart three different times to stop the squealing due to improper seal. So if you're going to do this, order a new seal for the up pipe and sand the shit out the pipe and plate.
Yep,my LML has my friends n family trying hard to put me in the nut house.Neither side stock up pipes is out,but the manifold and EGR are out on p side.Driver side...uh...not started yet.Whats making me dread that is I'm trying hard to leave CAT oil filter on so that once up pipes are done my mech can better diagnosis whether an injector is bad or not.Filter just may have to go before,but I want mech to change the oil too.
Fuel in the oil mean the injector took that piston with it.
It was 100% faster to lift the cab when I broke my bolts 😂
spraying blaster on the head of the bolt DOES NOTHING! don't believe me? i bet the bolts that did come out didn't have a lick of moisture ( or blaster ) past the first thread.... after all you STILL broke a bolt, ..... right?! the BEST way to tackle a bolt into a blind hole ( ESPECIALLY EXHAUST ) ........ IS HEAT ......... PERIOD........ heat the head - - slowly - - give it a minute for the heat to soak down into the bolt, then give it a yank ... WORKS EVERY TIME! the theory is, the heat expands the bolt in the hole, breaks the rust seizure, then the heat is then transferred into the housing and makes the housing expand, loc-tite sells an aerosol called "freeze off" exactly for this. they dont mention using heat in the instructions, but if you shock the bolt with the freeze off ( after letting it cool for a minute ) its like magic! good luck! ---- 20 yr cat mechanic - ive seen a few stubborn bolts ......
Luckily the up-pipe to manifold bolts actually have a access hole on the back of them so this will allow an agent such as PB to be sprayed on at least the bottom bolts for the whole length of them. Heat is extremely helpful when removing stubborn bolts I’ll agree.....however I do not own a torch at my house or anything to heat them up with. So it is cheaper to buy a can of PB plaster and try to make due than buying a torch. I’m a home mechanic and am not a professional by any means, just try to do some of my own work and help others if I’m able to.
@@southernsilverado5349 oh, ok i didn't know about the access hole, that would help. i would still prefer heat
bobo caterpillar good bit of advise, i will be tackling this job in the near future so i will definitley be looking into this method
Exactly Heat is your best friend
How do you heat it; oxyacetylene. Propane Engine heat. Thanks
Heat heat heat….
You should label this video preaching video about how you should do a job!
Butch Cassidy Lol Thank you sir!
pull the engine out, it's easier, I use break fluid that shi* really penetrates all the way to the bottom.
robe rey pulling the engine is easier? Lmao
I don't know about pulling the motor, but if you have a proper shop, dropping the trans takes about an hour....
NEVER use Sinister Diesel Products... lesson learned
Did this job by myself. Not fun...Not fun at all
It's called oxygen and acetylene. Who would use pb blaster thinking that's gonna work? Invest in some torches and proper heat, once there cherry red you know there coming out. My 2 cents, measure twice cut once. Good video, silly method on extracting.
This didn’t help at all. Wtf