After using king stones for yrs it took some time get use to the hardness of the shapton pro. (Once l did,) is now one of my favorite. Shapton pro is really its own thing. I do enjoy the chosera 600,800,and 3000 more than any stone, chosera has problems with cracking. I keep mine in there boxes after drying, no problem after many sharpenings and 4yrs of use. As always great video.
@@FreedomFox1 Better to invest directly to better stones directly. Started with a King stone and are very soft and gets alot of slury. Got my kombo king stone for like 20 Usd thats why i bought to learn. 1000/6000 grit
Before watching your video i was using both stones and i totally agree with your feedback. My exact sentiments of the shapton has a rougher grit.... don't need to feel bad about your feedback... anyway it's a great video.
Hello, newbie here. How are you “deburring”? And what are you using? It looks like a piece of wood. Also, would you mind going over the basic steps of sharpening? From what I can tell watching your videos, depending on how dull your knife is, you start with a lower grit and go to a higher grit until you strope leather. Is that basically right? my husband got me for Japanese knives for Christmas and I have no idea how to take care of them. Any help or suggestions would be very appreciated.
I remember you mentioning preferring the Chosera with the base and that it is a different stone than the Chosera without the base. Because of my sharpening set up, I'd prefer one with no base. Is the Chosera with the base removable from the base or no? Thanks!
hey Bradley, the chosera w/ and w/o base are the same stone, different name. chosera = w/ base, professional = chosera w/o base. i have tried removing the base from the chosera, but the glue is REALLY tough. it is possible, but i have't tried hard enough. you can probably grind the base away on a belt grinder, , or have a hard and flexible tool to stick between the stone and base and remove the glue bit by bit
i really think you should talk about low grits like shapton 120' , 220 , and 320 compared to the nainwa 400 as the nainwa 400 does concave a bit fast , but i like my 100o grit shapton. acts good for removing small amounts of metal with little scratching and i haven't had any dishing yet with the shapton ha nu Karumaku ceramic.
Ryky... I bought Naniwa Chosera 800 with base splash and goand a Suehiro Pro 5000 soaking stoneWhat are the best two blocks to round out my collection? Maybe a 3000 and a finishing stone?
I have the shapton kuromaku 1000 and want to get the chosera 800. From what i'm gathering, I should probably use my 1000 to set bevel then the 800 because of the 800's actual grit rating?? Thanking you, Greg B
Yeah ryk, it's all in your mind plus you have used the 800 alot more than the shapton pro. But still, thank you for doing this. Keep it up, we need new videos as well. We miss U ❤
i have seen some videos where some knives are extremely used (cutting wood, hitting os stones) and they still cut paper smoothly, is it possible ? or it's just marketing
Thank you , for teaching me how to use a whetstone. I spent a lot of money on using sharpening systems like the Chef'schoice, Work sharp Ken Onion, and the Edge pro Apex. After using them for a while, I personally didn't care for the those sharpening systems. Watching Virtuovise and You on sharpening techniques , my confidence in using a whetstones jumped up a lot. A nice visual reference, I check out my the edge under a 20X to 40X microscope, seeing that was really encouraging . Can you do a Polishing stone Comparison Review, like you do on your sharpening stones ?
It would appear to me that the chosera being less fast, lends a degree of polishing via the extra strokes it takes. Where as the shapton moves metal more quickly and does not allow the extra strokes for a more polished edge, if that edge had been created with more variation.
Riki I watch a few different people on CZcams. I can honestly say I not only understand what your trying to say better, but also I have tried a few different stones as well because I believe everyone is different. But at the end of the day I totally agree with your choices.
For real though, thank you for your kind words. I hope you continue with your sharpening journey and thank you for allowing me to go along for the ride
Have you ever used the Shapton Glass? I personally use Gesshin stones which are fabulous. You can get them at Japanese knife imports located in California.
When ordering Shaptons from Japan directly you can get them for ~50% of the western prices. That makes them SUPER cheap. I have a whole collection. Very happy with them.
@@warava9780 I can't post links cuz CZcams keeps deleting. But I order them on jpn website "rakuten" to a Japanese address of a mail forwarding company. And then ship it to myself from there.
question: how does the Shapton pro 100 compare to the Shapton glass 500 and Shapton glass 1000? I have and like a shapton glass 4K. I am trying to decide on a new primary sharpening stone, mainly for German kitchen knives and normal pocket knives. The Chosera 800 is on the table as an option as well. I assume that jumping from Atoma 140 to any of these works fine if needed?
The Shapton Glass 500 is probably the best Glass stone. It cuts very quickly but still leaves a fairly refined finish. I would want a courser stone like a 320-400 after using the Atoma 140; it can leave very deep scratches that can be difficult to get out if you make too large of a jump. The Glass 500 can do the job though. I would NOT try to jump to a Glass 1k or the Chosera 800 unless you're trying to create kind of a micro serrated edge. If you want my personal advice....I would go with Shapton Glass stones for 1k and under, anything finer is where the Pro/Ha No Kuromaku line shines. I would forget about Choseras until Naniwa gets them to stop cracking; as good as they are
My first stone was a cheap 1k/3k combi stone from naniwa. I have since given it away to a friend but it got me started. It was extremely soft and cracked, but was still usable. it was not in the same league as the new Speciality/professional stones, but it got me into the hobby. I don't know if that is what you call a Gouken series.
I've no idea if they are. I have a number of quality stones, I just noticed these while I was looking for a new Chosera 3k. The Gouken have names like Fuji 8k and Hayabusa 4k. I've seen some positive reviews after I looked them up so it got me curious.
I been looking for the shapton pro 1000, so I picked up the chosera 800 in the mean time. I am now reading that the shapton pro 1000 is discontinued. I was wondering if you can do a head to head comparison with your shapton pro 1000 to a Naniwa Sharpening Stone ( not the Chosera, Witch I just read, is Now call the Naniwa Professional Stone).
I have the Shapton 1000 cheapo stone with backing. I also have the pro 2000 and 5000. The discount Shaptons are only available in Japan i think, where mine was bought. If i were starting again i don't think i'd buy Shapton. They do work very well, but there are more pleasurable stones to use out there. I can't say much about the Pro 1000 mentioned here as i believe my discount stone is quite different, but i suspect the Naniwa is a superior user experience. I do think the Shapton 2000 is a very good stone and if i sold the others, i'd want to keep that one. The 5000 was the most expensive, but i've never really enjoyed using it and would happily swap it for a 3000 naniwa or a kitayama. BTW Ryky, here in the UK the Naniwa speciality 800 is the same price as the 1000 and i'm considering one or the other. Can you comment on differences between the two and which would be better to go for? Also, i'm glad to hear you like the Speciality stones, i don't want to pay extra for the Pro version.
I have the Shapton Pro 1000 and it is a wonderful stone. It's definitely on the courser side, as Ryky said probably closer to 800 grit. It's pretty cheap, but it's quality. So if people were looking for something that will perform, last and is affordable then I would recommend it. You could get away with this being the only stone you owned if money were tight.
I love the Shapton packaging. The boxes are excellent for both using and storing the stones. My other stones from King fit the same holder and i've never felt the need to buy a stone holder. The Shapton 2000 is another stone many could live with on it's own. I rarely use the 5000 and go straight from the 2k to the strop.
Yes the packaging is great as It protects the stones well. I have a stone holder that i use for a serious sharpening session as the boxes slide around once the surface gets a little wet when using a decent pressure on knives at 64 HRC. But a cheap rubber mat would give them something better to stick to than my slippery counters. I also have the Shapton Pro 320 and that is quite nice to sharpen on, better than the Pro 1000 for feedback and pleasure of sharpening. Super fast cutting and saves on wear of the higher grit stones doing all the ground work.
The Shapton Pro 2k is also one of my favorites, best stone in the Pro line. I find that it works great with all steels I've thrown at it but I've noticed it's especially awesome for carbon steel, I've got some amazing edges from it if I take my time and finish on that stone, even though I could go higher. I finish most my hunting knives on that stone because of the perfect blend of tooth and refinement that it produces. After the 2k I like to use a cowhide paddle strop loaded with 1 micron diamond paste and lately I've been finishing on a bare horse butt paddle strop. I always didn't quite believe that bare horse hide could really improve an edge to a noticeable degree but it certainly does. I would buy the Pro 1k if I were you, you already have the 2k and 5k so that would be a nice progression. I feel the same way about Shapton, there are definitely more pleasurable stones to use buy I can't turn away from them simply from the results I get, they produce very nice edges and they are very consistent. I love Naniwa Professionals(chosera) too but they are one of the only stones on the market that seem to just crack from normal use, Shaptons can crack too but I hear about it a lot less.
Have you seen the Norton waterstone set? I feel like they may be re-branded stones? www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XK0FMU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have their flattening stone. Took a punt as I needed a flattening stone and wasn't going to pay lots for it when I would hardly use it often. It was cheap and it does the job nicely. I have the Shapton pro 1000 and its really hard and rarely requires flattening but the Norton flattens it nicely. came in a foam padded plastic case so it was also well packaged. Can't speak for the sharpening stones.
Huge fan, an one thing I've heard you say in one or two of your videos is "this isn't totally scientific," (i cant seem to find the exact video where youve said this, but im certain ive heard you say it before) or something to that effect. Well, how would you like to get as scientific as you can? I'm a mathematician (and I also love sharpening!) and I might be able to get access to an electron microscope if you're interested. I think it would be cool to not only do scans of the surface of various whetstones, but also take images of knives at various stages of the sharpening process to see microscopically what the scratch patterns look like. I can give you my email if you're interested (I'll probably be doing this anyway, so I'm just curious if you would want the data I gather).
Regardless if you're interested in my results, got any tips for how to get in contact with naniwa, kuromaku, or any other stone makers? I'd like to see if I can get broken stones from them rather than ruin mine. The imaging process will likely damage the stones, and I'd prefer to not have to write a grant to buy stones specifically for this study.
I won’t miss sharpton. Even Naniwa pro vs Shaptons glass price isn’t too much of a gain on Shaptons. Basics thicker means longer lasting. They cut about the same too I’m on feel like Ryky otherwise I better go wheel grind over hand sharpening. Ps ever seen or experienced Naniwa stone cracking. Saw reports of that or it could just be misuse such as soaking them in water all the time or not drying before storage?
Naniwa "professional" stones absolutely crack and they don't need to be misused or dried incorrectly for it to happen. I made the mistake of buying a single 1k even though I was aware of the issue. Guess what happened. As good as they are I would avoid them until I saw some evidence Naniwa has done something about it
Seems to me that Ryky puts far too much stock in the way a stone "feels", which is different than feedback, something that is important. Shouldn't one of your three criteria be edge quality instead? Or maybe durability which the Choseras are notoriously lacking in. Choseras and the new Pro line are well known for cracking and it is happening to people who know how to take care of them, few of them are soaking them in any way. I'm not sure what the deal is with them but they are cracking on experienced water stone users under regular, standard use. Just google it or search it on youtube and you'll see what I'm talking about. I don't care how well a stone performs or feels if they are gonna crack on me after half a dozen uses like my Naniwa Pro 1k did; a stone which I babied in every way possible. It happens to some stones and not with others. And sorry Ryky but I'm pretty sure I've never heard you review a Shapton Pro stone in a positive light, simply because you don't like the "feel". Shapton Pros are excellent stones that aren't overpriced like the crack prone Naniwas and they produce just as keen of an edge if not keener. It seems to me the real problem is that they are not as forgiving to mistakes as the softer soaking stones and softer splash and goes like Chosera/Naniwa Pros. Really hard stones simply take more skill to master but once you do you will be rewarded with incredibly sharp edges. The feedback of the Shaptons is simply not as bad as Ryky makes them out to be.
Spot on.. I like the “feel” of naniwas too but I don’t want a system of stones I’m scared to get wet.. I’ve come to settle with shaptons due to reliability.. you get your money worth and Naniwa will not answer the clear issues with their product.
@@travycraig9523 Nope...like I said before there are many, many instances of people experienced with magnesia bonded stones that have their stones Crack while doing everything Naniwa recommends. The finer the grit the more likely it is to happen. I stopped buying them after my 1k cracked and I saw that they were cracking on other people. Are your stones the older "Chosera" or the newer "Pro" line?
Based on your own logic I don't think it's fair to compare the sharpness of the 2 knives when you say the shapton is closer to a 800 grit and the chosera is closer to 1200 grit. the knife sharpened on the1200 grit should obviously have a better edge
He's right in his logic...I might even say the Pro 1k is more like a 700. Once you get past that 1k stone they are closer to their stated grits, the 2k being my favorite. I refuse to use Naniwas but they are finer than their grit rating suggests.
the chosera is a LOT friable than the Shapton, which everyone knows is about a 600 grit stone. the 1500 is closer to a true 1k like the chosera 1k. the shapton doesn't do nearly as well with wide bevels because of hard and minimally friable it is. these are the real differences, not a bunch of emotional mythological talk about woo woo oh it feels this way or that way. thats all useless non information. theyre otherwise quite similar. the chosera is a lot more messy to use and released a lot more grit and wears down a lot faster. if you just want to do edges, the shapton is the clear choice, if you want to be able to do edges and wide bevels like traditional Japanese knives the chosera is a much better choice. In the US the chosera is likely cheaper or maybe the same cost. about $40 for 15 mm version of either stone with the case that works like a holder. if you want a shapton thats more like chosera stones, get the glass. if you a naniwa that more like shapton pros, get the habiki stone.
Dude! Stop being an apologist to those Shapton fan boys. I've never used that 800 Chosera but ran the Shapton 1K side by side with the Chosera 1K and there was NO comparison. The Chosera blows it out of the water. Tell 'em to pound sand!
🙄 Those are 2 very different stones, as a general rule the Naniwa stones are going to be finer for the grit rating. How long have you used the Chosera 1k? Has it cracked yet? If it wasn't for that well known issue I would agree with you; the Naniwas are better stones. But sometimes they just crack and it has nothing to do with improper use or drying. I personally won't give Naniwa anymore of my money for a stone I'm afraid to use
guy just rambles aimlessles and has no clue what he's talking about. it's not hard buddy. let me do it. the shapton pro 1k is actually a 700 grit stone. ask shapton. oh no that would take actual work to bring the audience actually useful info, so no way that's happening. Instead of the meaningless emotive language about "feel and feedback" how about just tell folks what they are. the shapton is harder. its much less friable. it's less thirsty. they both use the same abrasive and similar binding but the shapton is harder and less friable. the 800 and 1k chosera are known for being quite friable. they create a lot of mud and release grit readily. the shapton does not. The 800 chosera is also much finer than this stone, as such the shapton is faster despite wearing slower, being harder and less friable. As such the chosera will need to flattened more often. The chosera is better for wider bevels and it will leave a nice but subdued contrast finish between layers of steel, and the shapton is more suited to just doing edges. They're both excellent stones, just different. the chosera 600 is closer to the 1k shapton pro than this stone.
After using king stones for yrs it took some time get use to the hardness of the shapton pro. (Once l did,) is now one of my favorite. Shapton pro is really its own thing. I do enjoy the chosera 600,800,and 3000 more than any stone, chosera has problems with cracking. I keep mine in there boxes after drying, no problem after many sharpenings and 4yrs of use. As always great video.
Also shapton is half the price.
Would you recommend the King stones for learning, or should I go straight to Shapton or Chosera?
@@FreedomFox1 Better to invest directly to better stones directly. Started with a King stone and are very soft and gets alot of slury. Got my kombo king stone for like 20 Usd thats why i bought to learn. 1000/6000 grit
would that chosera 800 (with the base attached) fit on the naniwa sink bridge?
Before watching your video i was using both stones and i totally agree with your feedback. My exact sentiments of the shapton has a rougher grit.... don't need to feel bad about your feedback... anyway it's a great video.
Hello, newbie here.
How are you “deburring”? And what are you using? It looks like a piece of wood. Also, would you mind going over the basic steps of sharpening? From what I can tell watching your videos, depending on how dull your knife is, you start with a lower grit and go to a higher grit until you strope leather. Is that basically right? my husband got me for Japanese knives for Christmas and I have no idea how to take care of them. Any help or suggestions would be very appreciated.
I remember you mentioning preferring the Chosera with the base and that it is a different stone than the Chosera without the base. Because of my sharpening set up, I'd prefer one with no base. Is the Chosera with the base removable from the base or no? Thanks!
hey Bradley, the chosera w/ and w/o base are the same stone, different name. chosera = w/ base, professional = chosera w/o base. i have tried removing the base from the chosera, but the glue is REALLY tough. it is possible, but i have't tried hard enough. you can probably grind the base away on a belt grinder, , or have a hard and flexible tool to stick between the stone and base and remove the glue bit by bit
Thanks Ryky! Gotta find a good price on a Professional 800 now…
Loves the dog at the beginning
haha. just keeping it real
i really think you should talk about low grits like shapton 120' , 220 , and 320 compared to the nainwa 400 as the nainwa 400 does concave a bit fast , but i like my 100o grit shapton. acts good for removing small amounts of metal with little scratching and i haven't had any dishing yet with the shapton ha nu Karumaku ceramic.
watch my recently upload on "best whetstones of 2017"
I believe you can easily classify the Shapton Stone, justo go to a custom mecanical shop. I would really be interested.
Ryky... I bought Naniwa Chosera 800 with base splash and goand a Suehiro Pro 5000 soaking stoneWhat are the best two blocks to round out my collection? Maybe a 3000 and a finishing stone?
Andrew Solomons I would choose a Naniwa 3000 (great stone !) and a leather strop for polishing
I have the shapton kuromaku 1000 and want to get the chosera 800. From what i'm gathering, I should probably use my 1000 to set bevel then the 800 because of the 800's actual grit rating??
Thanking you, Greg B
That would be a waste of your money. Get a higher grit Shapton, 2k or 5k for finishing.
The 2k Shapton Pro is the best stone in the line
Yeah ryk, it's all in your mind plus you have used the 800 alot more than the shapton pro. But still, thank you for doing this. Keep it up, we need new videos as well. We miss U ❤
working on it
i have seen some videos where some knives are extremely used (cutting wood, hitting os stones) and they still cut paper smoothly, is it possible ? or it's just marketing
i would doubt hitting any blade on a stone and it still cuts in any way
it is if the steel is hard enough or tough enough.
search on CZcams: ''Is Nitro V brittle at 64HRC?'' for the best example.
Wood yes...I would say stones no
Thank you , for teaching me how to use a whetstone. I spent a lot of money on using sharpening systems like the Chef'schoice, Work sharp Ken Onion, and the Edge pro Apex. After using them for a while, I personally didn't care for the those sharpening systems. Watching Virtuovise and You on sharpening techniques , my confidence in using a whetstones jumped up a lot. A nice visual reference, I check out my the edge under a 20X to 40X microscope, seeing that was really encouraging .
Can you do a Polishing stone Comparison Review, like you do on your sharpening stones ?
yeah, i have a series coming out in a month on 3000-12000 grit stones.
If you rate the Chosera 800, 1200+, what do you rate Chosera 1K?
It would appear to me that the chosera being less fast, lends a degree of polishing via the extra strokes it takes. Where as the shapton moves metal more quickly and does not allow the extra strokes for a more polished edge, if that edge had been created with more variation.
I want to get the Chosera 800. Between the Shapton 1000 and the Chosera 800, which one has a slightly better edge finish over the other one ?
Chosera 800
@@AnarchAngel1 right, thanks
Riki I watch a few different people on CZcams. I can honestly say I not only understand what your trying to say better, but also I have tried a few different stones as well because I believe everyone is different. But at the end of the day I totally agree with your choices.
Yay!
For real though, thank you for your kind words. I hope you continue with your sharpening journey and thank you for allowing me to go along for the ride
Another good video. What happened to the new studio? I've been gone awhile.
it's still here. transferring videos from my other channel, so that all my knife videos are on one channel.
Have you ever used the Shapton Glass? I personally use Gesshin stones which are fabulous. You can get them at Japanese knife imports located in California.
i have the entire collection of Shapton Glass stones, so yes, will be doing lots of videos on them
JKI is owned and operated by a troll. i don't do business with them.
Is there a reason the angle when your stropping looks extremely low?
strop at lower angle because strop is soft and can round edge
When ordering Shaptons from Japan directly you can get them for ~50% of the western prices.
That makes them SUPER cheap.
I have a whole collection.
Very happy with them.
Where you buy them from? In amazon its like 40$
@@warava9780 I can't post links cuz CZcams keeps deleting.
But I order them on jpn website "rakuten" to a Japanese address of a mail forwarding company.
And then ship it to myself from there.
question: how does the Shapton pro 100 compare to the Shapton glass 500 and Shapton glass 1000? I have and like a shapton glass 4K. I am trying to decide on a new primary sharpening stone, mainly for German kitchen knives and normal pocket knives. The Chosera 800 is on the table as an option as well. I assume that jumping from Atoma 140 to any of these works fine if needed?
The Shapton Glass 500 is probably the best Glass stone. It cuts very quickly but still leaves a fairly refined finish. I would want a courser stone like a 320-400 after using the Atoma 140; it can leave very deep scratches that can be difficult to get out if you make too large of a jump. The Glass 500 can do the job though. I would NOT try to jump to a Glass 1k or the Chosera 800 unless you're trying to create kind of a micro serrated edge. If you want my personal advice....I would go with Shapton Glass stones for 1k and under, anything finer is where the Pro/Ha No Kuromaku line shines. I would forget about Choseras until Naniwa gets them to stop cracking; as good as they are
Review of the Naniwa Gouken series of stones? They're cheap! But are they any good?
My first stone was a cheap 1k/3k combi stone from naniwa. I have since given it away to a friend but it got me started. It was extremely soft and cracked, but was still usable. it was not in the same league as the new Speciality/professional stones, but it got me into the hobby. I don't know if that is what you call a Gouken series.
I've no idea if they are. I have a number of quality stones, I just noticed these while I was looking for a new Chosera 3k. The Gouken have names like Fuji 8k and Hayabusa 4k. I've seen some positive reviews after I looked them up so it got me curious.
anything you would suggest when sharpening a knife with a belly that is turned in? like a concave belly
TheRealKingOfTigers like a recurve or kukri?
you'll need a horse-shaped whetstone. i have a a few videos coming out soon
It is a small 4 inch skinning knife
If your still looking for something to sharpen a recurve check out the spyderco sharpmaker.
Check out EZE lap oval sharpener, theyre convex rod shaped sharpeners that are cheap and work quite well... I got mine on amazon...
How could i know my chosera 800 was the real one?other sell 100$ and the other seller double the price
I been looking for the shapton pro 1000, so I picked up the chosera 800 in the mean time.
I am now reading that the shapton pro 1000 is discontinued. I was wondering if you can do a head to head comparison with your shapton pro 1000 to a Naniwa Sharpening Stone ( not the Chosera, Witch I just read, is Now call the Naniwa Professional Stone).
the professional is the chosera, and yes, i'll do a comparison of those two stones soon
it is never all the same for all companies , as long as it doe's the Job
The Chosera 800 has much clearer cut than Shapton Pro 1000.
Cute pupper.
I have the Shapton 1000 cheapo stone with backing. I also have the pro 2000 and 5000. The discount Shaptons are only available in Japan i think, where mine was bought.
If i were starting again i don't think i'd buy Shapton. They do work very well, but there are more pleasurable stones to use out there. I can't say much about the Pro 1000 mentioned here as i believe my discount stone is quite different, but i suspect the Naniwa is a superior user experience. I do think the Shapton 2000 is a very good stone and if i sold the others, i'd want to keep that one. The 5000 was the most expensive, but i've never really enjoyed using it and would happily swap it for a 3000 naniwa or a kitayama.
BTW Ryky, here in the UK the Naniwa speciality 800 is the same price as the 1000 and i'm considering one or the other. Can you comment on differences between the two and which would be better to go for?
Also, i'm glad to hear you like the Speciality stones, i don't want to pay extra for the Pro version.
I have the Shapton Pro 1000 and it is a wonderful stone. It's definitely on the courser side, as Ryky said probably closer to 800 grit. It's pretty cheap, but it's quality. So if people were looking for something that will perform, last and is affordable then I would recommend it. You could get away with this being the only stone you owned if money were tight.
I love the Shapton packaging. The boxes are excellent for both using and storing the stones. My other stones from King fit the same holder and i've never felt the need to buy a stone holder.
The Shapton 2000 is another stone many could live with on it's own. I rarely use the 5000 and go straight from the 2k to the strop.
Yes the packaging is great as It protects the stones well. I have a stone holder that i use for a serious sharpening session as the boxes slide around once the surface gets a little wet when using a decent pressure on knives at 64 HRC. But a cheap rubber mat would give them something better to stick to than my slippery counters.
I also have the Shapton Pro 320 and that is quite nice to sharpen on, better than the Pro 1000 for feedback and pleasure of sharpening. Super fast cutting and saves on wear of the higher grit stones doing all the ground work.
The Shapton Pro 2k is also one of my favorites, best stone in the Pro line. I find that it works great with all steels I've thrown at it but I've noticed it's especially awesome for carbon steel, I've got some amazing edges from it if I take my time and finish on that stone, even though I could go higher. I finish most my hunting knives on that stone because of the perfect blend of tooth and refinement that it produces. After the 2k I like to use a cowhide paddle strop loaded with 1 micron diamond paste and lately I've been finishing on a bare horse butt paddle strop. I always didn't quite believe that bare horse hide could really improve an edge to a noticeable degree but it certainly does. I would buy the Pro 1k if I were you, you already have the 2k and 5k so that would be a nice progression. I feel the same way about Shapton, there are definitely more pleasurable stones to use buy I can't turn away from them simply from the results I get, they produce very nice edges and they are very consistent. I love Naniwa Professionals(chosera) too but they are one of the only stones on the market that seem to just crack from normal use, Shaptons can crack too but I hear about it a lot less.
Have you seen the Norton waterstone set? I feel like they may be re-branded stones? www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XK0FMU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have their flattening stone. Took a punt as I needed a flattening stone and wasn't going to pay lots for it when I would hardly use it often. It was cheap and it does the job nicely. I have the Shapton pro 1000 and its really hard and rarely requires flattening but the Norton flattens it nicely. came in a foam padded plastic case so it was also well packaged.
Can't speak for the sharpening stones.
Huge fan, an one thing I've heard you say in one or two of your videos is "this isn't totally scientific," (i cant seem to find the exact video where youve said this, but im certain ive heard you say it before) or something to that effect. Well, how would you like to get as scientific as you can? I'm a mathematician (and I also love sharpening!) and I might be able to get access to an electron microscope if you're interested. I think it would be cool to not only do scans of the surface of various whetstones, but also take images of knives at various stages of the sharpening process to see microscopically what the scratch patterns look like. I can give you my email if you're interested (I'll probably be doing this anyway, so I'm just curious if you would want the data I gather).
Regardless if you're interested in my results, got any tips for how to get in contact with naniwa, kuromaku, or any other stone makers? I'd like to see if I can get broken stones from them rather than ruin mine. The imaging process will likely damage the stones, and I'd prefer to not have to write a grant to buy stones specifically for this study.
I got my Chosera #800 today:)))
have fun!
You always compare the shapton pro to the chosera, but I think it would be really cool to see the shapton pro compared to the shapton glass.
they are not made to be compared, but sure, will try
Why do you say they aren't meant to be compared? Are The glass stones just kind of a league above the pros?
well..... they are 2X the price.... so shapton didn't really want customers who wanted the glass stones to buy the pro stones.
I won’t miss sharpton.
Even Naniwa pro vs Shaptons glass price isn’t too much of a gain on Shaptons. Basics thicker means longer lasting. They cut about the same too I’m on feel like Ryky otherwise I better go wheel grind over hand sharpening.
Ps ever seen or experienced Naniwa stone cracking. Saw reports of that or it could just be misuse such as soaking them in water all the time or not drying before storage?
Naniwa "professional" stones absolutely crack and they don't need to be misused or dried incorrectly for it to happen. I made the mistake of buying a single 1k even though I was aware of the issue. Guess what happened. As good as they are I would avoid them until I saw some evidence Naniwa has done something about it
Alittle late, but who travels with their wetstones????
Seems to me that Ryky puts far too much stock in the way a stone "feels", which is different than feedback, something that is important. Shouldn't one of your three criteria be edge quality instead? Or maybe durability which the Choseras are notoriously lacking in. Choseras and the new Pro line are well known for cracking and it is happening to people who know how to take care of them, few of them are soaking them in any way. I'm not sure what the deal is with them but they are cracking on experienced water stone users under regular, standard use. Just google it or search it on youtube and you'll see what I'm talking about. I don't care how well a stone performs or feels if they are gonna crack on me after half a dozen uses like my Naniwa Pro 1k did; a stone which I babied in every way possible. It happens to some stones and not with others. And sorry Ryky but I'm pretty sure I've never heard you review a Shapton Pro stone in a positive light, simply because you don't like the "feel". Shapton Pros are excellent stones that aren't overpriced like the crack prone Naniwas and they produce just as keen of an edge if not keener. It seems to me the real problem is that they are not as forgiving to mistakes as the softer soaking stones and softer splash and goes like Chosera/Naniwa Pros. Really hard stones simply take more skill to master but once you do you will be rewarded with incredibly sharp edges. The feedback of the Shaptons is simply not as bad as Ryky makes them out to be.
Spot on.. I like the “feel” of naniwas too but I don’t want a system of stones I’m scared to get wet.. I’ve come to settle with shaptons due to reliability.. you get your money worth and Naniwa will not answer the clear issues with their product.
I have a lot of chosera and none of them crack I think if you just care for them correctly they are fine.
@@travycraig9523 Nope...like I said before there are many, many instances of people experienced with magnesia bonded stones that have their stones Crack while doing everything Naniwa recommends. The finer the grit the more likely it is to happen. I stopped buying them after my 1k cracked and I saw that they were cracking on other people. Are your stones the older "Chosera" or the newer "Pro" line?
@@AnarchAngel1 i have the 800 and a 4k and mine are the older model chosera.
Shapton 5000 and Naniwa 5000 are identical? I heard that Shapton 5000 is like Naniwa 3000.
What the point to make such videos without microscope?
haha. what's the point of a microscope?
These knives seem very sharp, what is the point of going to finer grit stones?
Wm K to further refine the edge of the blade, usually so the product being cut is disrupted less on a cellular level
Nothing beats a naniwa pro set sorry but nothing compares with naniwa pro lines polishing and speed
it's what i use each time
notification squad
Based on your own logic I don't think it's fair to compare the sharpness of the 2 knives when you say the shapton is closer to a 800 grit and the chosera is closer to 1200 grit. the knife sharpened on the1200 grit should obviously have a better edge
He's right in his logic...I might even say the Pro 1k is more like a 700. Once you get past that 1k stone they are closer to their stated grits, the 2k being my favorite. I refuse to use Naniwas but they are finer than their grit rating suggests.
Which stone should I choose to start between Shapton Pro 1500 and Cerax 1000 for German knives like Whistoff or Japanese knives like Global and Shun?
the chosera is a LOT friable than the Shapton, which everyone knows is about a 600 grit stone. the 1500 is closer to a true 1k like the chosera 1k. the shapton doesn't do nearly as well with wide bevels because of hard and minimally friable it is. these are the real differences, not a bunch of emotional mythological talk about woo woo oh it feels this way or that way. thats all useless non information. theyre otherwise quite similar. the chosera is a lot more messy to use and released a lot more grit and wears down a lot faster. if you just want to do edges, the shapton is the clear choice, if you want to be able to do edges and wide bevels like traditional Japanese knives the chosera is a much better choice. In the US the chosera is likely cheaper or maybe the same cost. about $40 for 15 mm version of either stone with the case that works like a holder. if you want a shapton thats more like chosera stones, get the glass. if you a naniwa that more like shapton pros, get the habiki stone.
Dude! Stop being an apologist to those Shapton fan boys. I've never used that 800 Chosera but ran the Shapton 1K side by side with the Chosera 1K and there was NO comparison. The Chosera blows it out of the water. Tell 'em to pound sand!
Thanks for the advice. Will make sure i apply it
🙄 Those are 2 very different stones, as a general rule the Naniwa stones are going to be finer for the grit rating. How long have you used the Chosera 1k? Has it cracked yet? If it wasn't for that well known issue I would agree with you; the Naniwas are better stones. But sometimes they just crack and it has nothing to do with improper use or drying. I personally won't give Naniwa anymore of my money for a stone I'm afraid to use
guy just rambles aimlessles and has no clue what he's talking about. it's not hard buddy. let me do it. the shapton pro 1k is actually a 700 grit stone. ask shapton. oh no that would take actual work to bring the audience actually useful info, so no way that's happening. Instead of the meaningless emotive language about "feel and feedback" how about just tell folks what they are. the shapton is harder. its much less friable. it's less thirsty. they both use the same abrasive and similar binding but the shapton is harder and less friable. the 800 and 1k chosera are known for being quite friable. they create a lot of mud and release grit readily. the shapton does not. The 800 chosera is also much finer than this stone, as such the shapton is faster despite wearing slower, being harder and less friable. As such the chosera will need to flattened more often. The chosera is better for wider bevels and it will leave a nice but subdued contrast finish between layers of steel, and the shapton is more suited to just doing edges. They're both excellent stones, just different. the chosera 600 is closer to the 1k shapton pro than this stone.
exactly
Really try to cut down on the talking.
Maybe you should find out what your talking about before you do a video