@@jondoe6618A lot of people see that $1800 mark and say you can get way louder for cheaper, yes that is true. But loud and still sound amazing not so much.
@@oscarishandsome5150 I don't know why anyone would buy anything from an A'hole manufacturer who forces you to go through a dealer to get their precious garbage.
This is a high quality build with all the technical abilities to get the best out of the complete system... The final product,from design to install to fine tuning in My eyes is genius..
I just have to say man I am so thankful for what you're doing here with the easy to understand explanation. It's like having a close friend that knows all the answers to my questions for such a specific and schooled art
Supposedly, compared to initial MSRP at release and the rate of inflation, this sub should be sitting at $1,576.00. I am glad I only paid $300 out of pocket for my clean, 1 owner 13W7! I think JL will continue to be "ahead of the inflation curve" as long as people are willing to pay the money. I love my 13 and wish I could have TWO of them!
I built a ported 13W7 enclosure for my buddy’s eclipse about 20 years ago with the old school JL’s Slash series 1000/1 along with JL 300/4 on Alpine mods and highs, and it hit an amazing 152.3 dbfor the win at local car show sound off. Another guy was there that built car with 2- 12W7’s and 2- Slash 1000/1 amps and he hit 153.02 db, made me extremely proud that day. 😊 😉🤘😎🤘
JL audio with Fosgate amps always made them lows I really enjoyed in my rides. Had 3 W6S and a punch 200 for almost 10 years. Went to one for trunk space but still sounds nice compared to any other sub in my opinion 👍👏
I think this is very informative for 1% of the car audio enthusiasts out here and not really for the average DIY’r. A tutorial on tuning and and perfecting car audio with basic tools/equipment would apply to a wider audience and would be appreciated.
Exactly. AA battery for polarity check, $20.00 voltage meter to check what ohms the cabinet is wired to, If you know the Fs of any speaker on the crossover set it higher by 2 times, so a speaker with an Fs of 60hz you would high pass filter it at 120hz to protect the speaker and for better performance in its frequency range. I used the same process for my subwoofer also. If the subwoofer speaker it self has an fs of say 35hz I would start the low pass filter at around 70hz and then micro tune it from there to my preference. Subsonic filter usually set to 5 hz under Fs so this 35hz subwoofers subsonic filter would be set to around 30hz..You don't need hundreds of dollars in equipment if you have the specification of the speaker box and subwoofer from the manufacturer...
He has tones of those man. Do a search. Also tons of videos of others doing the exact same thing. And its his channel. He can make what he wants. Go watch one of the other million videos for the same old shit builds. I plan on doing this kind of setup with my next system. Perfect video to get my feet wet.
hi Mark, after you set your woofer TA by using sub as your reference point, do you add or subtract from the established TA value from each speaker when you dial in TA for the specific listening position in the car?
The 13.5W7 hits such low clean bass there are songs I've played on other subs and noticed certain bass not being play. The 13.5W7 makes for a completely different listening experience
Great video. I'm ordering my 13w7ae in two days. I listen to alot of rock/metal with fast kick drums. I enjoy that tight punchy bass. Do you think that can still be attained in the ported enclosure or should I go sealed?
I remember back when I was doing one of my very first stereo systems in my car It was a Pontiac I was at one of those front of the mill audio shops and I saw a jail audio sub and a box and it says wow the RMS on that thing is really not much. Says well these are underrated speakers. And since it was only like 130 bucks for the speaker and the box wire that's this man I'm going to give this thing a shot and I was blown away from day one so I'd never buy anything other than jail audio after that. I think it was in 2000 or 99 yeah 2000. what do you think that model was. Hard to remember us but I think they said the RMS was 150 watts or something like that maybe 180 It was a low number
Hey man you’re the only one I can turn to. I’ve got a JL system installed by a dealer and I still heave a very faint hiss from the speakers but only when the A/C is off and you’re dead silent. I looked at the ground and I saw they didn’t scratch the paint and I brought that up to the installer and he said he’ll adjust the gains and that the amp ground just being screwed in is enough because the threads are touching bare metal. Should I take it to heart or should I just sand the paint under it, or will it even make a difference? Amp is XDM1000/5.
How do you feel the removable cab made from plastic/ fiberglass (???) effected the sound quality and SPL score? I drove an identical Jeep on vacation and, while it’s sound wasn’t horrible (stock), it did have quit a bit of deadness at lower volumes and would assume it would have a ton of unwanted noise and flex at higher volumes. Without serious stiffening and deadening of course. Cheers.
I just ordered a pair of them for a blow through on my truck on a pair of T2500, I'm thinking series bridged bdsync :) Not sure if I want to do 6th order or just ported with subs in the back of the cab
Hi, love your content.. I have a question.. I have a 01 ram ext cab... and I purchased a under seat box.. for two 10s... the box has a air space of .57.. the speakers I have ( purchased for a larger box ) needs .7 .. kickers crv102s... the box I have is wedged shaped and no room to port.. should I leave the box sealed or can I use passive radiators?? Oh pretty much every box I see is in simular design... any suggestions.. ty vm
I went to the JL Audio site to try and find the final installation of the speaker surround wire and the locking ring, but I couldn't find it. Is this because they were purchased by Garmin?
I have a question. How would I find out information on a speaker that doesn't have all of the TS parameters. I recently bought a pair of gravity warzone 8in gw8d4 speakers. It does not list the displacement or have all of the parameters. I wanted to do a custom build with these but it's difficult to design something without speaker specs.
Hey bro. How about a sound band EQ display for the rear vent windows on my Ford Expedition? They make these cheapo units that plug into your cigarette lighter and light up your windows to bounce light bars to the beat, but the sensitivity adjustment is junk and my Rockford Fosgates are too powerful for it. I was wondering if you knew of another product that I could install on the interior of both side rear windows that would light up at night like an old school "EQ"? And one that would actually display the difference band frequencies as they're playing in each song? The cheap kits all light up at once, it's just the "bounce" that you can kind of adjust with the sensitivity knob.
I've got almost the exact same setup. Only getting 133 dbs. Vehicle isn't an suv but my chrysler 300 with the backseat down has plenty of airspace. What could I be doing wrong? That is a huge difference compared to yours.
Trunk vs hatch. Hatch will always be considerably louder. The only way to get a trunk build louder is remove the rear speakers and/or cut the center of the rear deck to allow more of your bass to reflect off of the glass. You're losing bass energy from vibration. The metal in the trunk turns your sound into rattles. Remove the material between the subs and the glass which is incredibly dense and your bass output will increase 🍻
@@CarAudioFabrication I’m sure you get a lot of quick questions, but if I’m going to make a dual w7 13.5 build, should I got for a sealed enclosure? Or maybe the question I should be asking is will the infrasonics still be amazing?
I came here to see if this question had been asked and answered yet. I have a brand new Rockford Fosgate T2 13” sitting in my closet. Fun Fact…I also own the T2 13” that he unboxed and built a system for. It’s also sitting in my closet. He shipped it to me packaged like it was brand new. I haven’t hooked it up either.
This is why a DSP is needed for every system. So you can control everything. Get better SQ. Your system will be focused instead of sounding like the speakers are playing everywhere. And you can take that same sub/box and put it in another car and it will not sound the same because every car's cabin is different....
You would need a USB audio interface with two channels for a loopback to measure phase. For multiple mics like the max you would have to buy the multi mic version of REW as well. It would be better to use a different program other than REW for multi mic arrays like Smaart V9, but it is a out $160 for a year subscription of LE or almost $500 for a lifetime key. Everything can be done I. REW, but nowhere near as easy.
@@TickleFingers can you use the reference signal and still be able to use REW? I'm less familiar with REW and the use of the reference signal used for timing
That sub will last FOREVER running off of that amp at 3 ohms. I am currently running a Down 4 Sound JP23v2 @ .75 ohms, in order to take full advantage of the 13W7's mechanical limits. I once burped a 50 Hz tone and measured 2,980 watts with an SMD AMM-1 and my amp is turned down as to not let the voice coil bottom out against the back of the magnet!
I swear the world is manifestations. I swear because I just pulled mine out of the trunk. Because i'm getting no signal and i'm wondering if I blew it. I feel no crunchies and now i'm pulling the amplifiers out. I have to test them why they are powered up and i'm getting no signal. It's one of those days. But it's weird that I get recommended the same. Looking box with the same speaker, it's definitely artificial algorithm.
I'm not convinced time alignment makes sense in a car environment. You can't time align for every seat in the vehicle meaning only 1 seat will have properly aligned audio. I think just having no delay is fine.
You need to sit in a vehicle with a proper tune that has a NO TA preset and then one with TA. If you know what you're listening for the difference is staggering. Also there are strategies we can use with phase and additional drivers to make every seat in the vehicle sound good.
I have a preset on my dm608 that is time aligned for just me in the driver position, 1 other preset for my kiddo in the back seat and another with balanced stereo, besides the sub of course. Works great, shifts the imaging of the sound stage to center whilst sitting in the drivers seat.
A simple answer, it makes every sense to have TA done for any system that you are listening to whatever the environment is, if you are listening from any offset position. In other words, if you are not sitting at the center of all the speakers that surrounds you, even may be a 2 stereo channels, you need to get the Time alignment done.
I have a JL Audio TwK-88 and when I am giving a demo, I just change presets so that the passenger seat is in the "sweet spot" and is time aligned. I also switch the sweet spot to my side while they are sitting there and the difference is staggering.
I recently bought two 12w6v3s and was so excited to hear them but was let down when they sounded similar to my single skar 12" zvx and didn't have nearly as much bass.
Have both subs and there is no way a single skar zvx is outperforming two w6's. You are definitely doing something wrong. I only have one w6 and while the zvx plays a little louder, I know for a fact that if I added another w6, it would definitely out perform the single zvx. Hands down. Sub for sub, the output capability of the w6 isn't that far behind the zvx, although the zvx is noticeably louder, but not nearly as drastic as you claim. And that's just single sub vs single sub. Adding another w6 would easily outperform the single skar zvx. The zvx has more xmax, but it would need alot more xmax than it currently has to overcome the cone area that two 12" drivers have. I mean, look at the numbers. A quick google search tells us a skar zvx 12" sub has 24mm of xmax. a w6 sub has 18mm of xmax. Being that both are 12" drivers, they basically have the same cone area. Sub for sub, of course the skar should be louder, its cone can move further in both ways, which in turn moves more air. However, adding another w6 DOUBLES the cone area, which takes the 6 mm xmax advantage of the zvx right out of the equation. Double the piston area makes a bigger impact on the output than 6mm of xmax. If you had said you had a 12" sundown zv6, which has an insane 38mm of xmax at 70% bl(!!) Then I'd believe you. 38 mm of xmax is an insane amount cone movement, and I believe that would definitely move more air than two w6's. However, after comparing the skar zvx to the w6 in my car, I can say with 100% confidence that two w6's would outperform a single zvx. the zvx is definitely louder than a w6 sub for sub, but two w6's? Nope.
2 12w6 of any version should stomp a mud hole in the zvx's ass the box configurations and volume is a major factor you can EZ'ly make a 1000 subwoofer sound like trash and vise versa with a cheap sub
146.8 on a single 13.5 with that amount of RMS with a setup that’s designed to be more towards an SQ build is purely insane.
welcome to the jl w7
@@jondoe6618A lot of people see that $1800 mark and say you can get way louder for cheaper, yes that is true. But loud and still sound amazing not so much.
Has anyone ever heard of DD?
THATS REAL SQ.
IVE OWNED BOTH
@@ashleyburke2282 Digital Designs? I always wonder why nobody uses their subs and why DD don't put much efforts into marketing them
@@oscarishandsome5150 I don't know why anyone would buy anything from an A'hole manufacturer who forces you to go through a dealer to get their precious garbage.
Your knowledge of car audio is absolutely astonishing.
This is a high quality build with all the technical abilities to get the best out of the complete system...
The final product,from design to install to fine tuning in My eyes is genius..
I just have to say man I am so thankful for what you're doing here with the easy to understand explanation. It's like having a close friend that knows all the answers to my questions for such a specific and schooled art
Great stuff as always, Mark! You really do a great job explaining things.
146 & Change on the bass!!! Holy moly i never thought you'd even break 140 on 1000 watts with one sub! Great job on this System!
This was an excellent demo! Thanks!
Very coherent tutorial! Awesome work Mark! Thanks again
I like full tilt boogie! Nice build, you make it look easy.
$1800.00 it better rock your world and other worlds !!!
Supposedly, compared to initial MSRP at release and the rate of inflation, this sub should be sitting at $1,576.00. I am glad I only paid $300 out of pocket for my clean, 1 owner 13W7! I think JL will continue to be "ahead of the inflation curve" as long as people are willing to pay the money. I love my 13 and wish I could have TWO of them!
I have the 10 inch version of the W7 and it’s worth every penny. The best sub for the car you can get.
it just looks like it sounds good
@@RodofAllTrades yup! I had one. bought it from a buddy. sold it back to him. I still have a w7 8 tho. Insane subs!
That's not including all the money for test equipment time tuning. 😂
Damn that was quick lol i just asked for this video bc i was watching the video on building the enclosure love your videos very inspiring to me
I love the 13W7.
Beast of a sub and build cheers!
Like always. Great video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for watching!
I built a ported 13W7 enclosure for my buddy’s eclipse about 20 years ago with the old school JL’s Slash series 1000/1 along with JL 300/4 on Alpine mods and highs, and it hit an amazing 152.3 dbfor the win at local car show sound off. Another guy was there that built car with 2- 12W7’s and 2- Slash 1000/1 amps and he hit 153.02 db, made me extremely proud that day. 😊 😉🤘😎🤘
How big was the enclosure and what was the port tuned too?
That's nice for two 12"s
JL audio with Fosgate amps always made them lows I really enjoyed in my rides. Had 3 W6S and a punch 200 for almost 10 years. Went to one for trunk space but still sounds nice compared to any other sub in my opinion 👍👏
The JL max is really something special
Love the work done. The enclosure is beautiful. Excellent work.
If you were going for maximum SPL would you have still went with a ported enclosure?
100% still ported
Yohhh there is so much information here. WOW.
I think this is very informative for 1% of the car audio enthusiasts out here and not really for the average DIY’r. A tutorial on tuning and and perfecting car audio with basic tools/equipment would apply to a wider audience and would be appreciated.
Exactly. AA battery for polarity check, $20.00 voltage meter to check what ohms the cabinet is wired to, If you know the Fs of any speaker on the crossover set it higher by 2 times, so a speaker with an Fs of 60hz you would high pass filter it at 120hz to protect the speaker and for better performance in its frequency range. I used the same process for my subwoofer also. If the subwoofer speaker it self has an fs of say 35hz I would start the low pass filter at around 70hz and then micro tune it from there to my preference. Subsonic filter usually set to 5 hz under Fs so this 35hz subwoofers subsonic filter would be set to around 30hz..You don't need hundreds of dollars in equipment if you have the specification of the speaker box and subwoofer from the manufacturer...
He has tones of those man. Do a search. Also tons of videos of others doing the exact same thing. And its his channel. He can make what he wants. Go watch one of the other million videos for the same old shit builds. I plan on doing this kind of setup with my next system. Perfect video to get my feet wet.
hi Mark, after you set your woofer TA by using sub as your reference point, do you add or subtract from the established TA value from each speaker when you dial in TA for the specific listening position in the car?
Man its crazy how technical I've been able to become based solely on your videos alone.
The 13.5W7 hits such low clean bass there are songs I've played on other subs and noticed certain bass not being play. The 13.5W7 makes for a completely different listening experience
Great video. I'm ordering my 13w7ae in two days. I listen to alot of rock/metal with fast kick drums. I enjoy that tight punchy bass. Do you think that can still be attained in the ported enclosure or should I go sealed?
I remember back when I was doing one of my very first stereo systems in my car It was a Pontiac I was at one of those front of the mill audio shops and I saw a jail audio sub and a box and it says wow the RMS on that thing is really not much. Says well these are underrated speakers. And since it was only like 130 bucks for the speaker and the box wire that's this man I'm going to give this thing a shot and I was blown away from day one so I'd never buy anything other than jail audio after that. I think it was in 2000 or 99 yeah 2000. what do you think that model was. Hard to remember us but I think they said the RMS was 150 watts or something like that maybe 180 It was a low number
Please tell us more about tuning. Are you familiar with Helix DSP and tuning with REW and umik 1 microphone?
You should do installs for customers and build enclosures for them as well. You would make bank.
I wish I could have you work on my truck it would be awesome video I spent alot but I didn't install it good enough I think
Hey man you’re the only one I can turn to. I’ve got a JL system installed by a dealer and I still heave a very faint hiss from the speakers but only when the A/C is off and you’re dead silent. I looked at the ground and I saw they didn’t scratch the paint and I brought that up to the installer and he said he’ll adjust the gains and that the amp ground just being screwed in is enough because the threads are touching bare metal. Should I take it to heart or should I just sand the paint under it, or will it even make a difference? Amp is XDM1000/5.
How do you feel the removable cab made from plastic/ fiberglass (???) effected the sound quality and SPL score? I drove an identical Jeep on vacation and, while it’s sound wasn’t horrible (stock), it did have quit a bit of deadness at lower volumes and would assume it would have a ton of unwanted noise and flex at higher volumes. Without serious stiffening and deadening of course. Cheers.
Is very good
At what hertz would you recommend tunning this subwoofer enclosure if space is not a limitation?
Im going for SQ over spl with a Slash 1200/1v3
I just ordered a pair of them for a blow through on my truck on a pair of T2500, I'm thinking series bridged bdsync :) Not sure if I want to do 6th order or just ported with subs in the back of the cab
Hi i was wondering if you've made the same video for the 12" W6 ?
Do you have boxes like that for dual 8w7? I was looking towards the gately boxes.
Hi, love your content.. I have a question.. I have a 01 ram ext cab... and I purchased a under seat box.. for two 10s... the box has a air space of .57.. the speakers I have ( purchased for a larger box ) needs .7 .. kickers crv102s... the box I have is wedged shaped and no room to port.. should I leave the box sealed or can I use passive radiators?? Oh pretty much every box I see is in simular design... any suggestions.. ty vm
I went to the JL Audio site to try and find the final installation of the speaker surround wire and the locking ring, but I couldn't find it. Is this because they were purchased by Garmin?
This SPL score how was achieved? Could we know about the wattage and at what frequency? Cheers!
Looks to be @40hz, probably only pushing 700watt with impedance rise. Very good number for the wattage in a non SPL setup.
Can you do a review on the alpine type X
I have a question. How would I find out information on a speaker that doesn't have all of the TS parameters. I recently bought a pair of gravity warzone 8in gw8d4 speakers. It does not list the displacement or have all of the parameters. I wanted to do a custom build with these but it's difficult to design something without speaker specs.
Name of the track you played Mark
Loved your designing skills ❤
Some good bass tracks you can suggest for 33hz tuned box
I want to do this so badly for my own daily drive. I hope i can find a way to afford the equipment eventually
Hey bro. How about a sound band EQ display for the rear vent windows on my Ford Expedition? They make these cheapo units that plug into your cigarette lighter and light up your windows to bounce light bars to the beat, but the sensitivity adjustment is junk and my Rockford Fosgates are too powerful for it. I was wondering if you knew of another product that I could install on the interior of both side rear windows that would light up at night like an old school "EQ"? And one that would actually display the difference band frequencies as they're playing in each song? The cheap kits all light up at once, it's just the "bounce" that you can kind of adjust with the sensitivity knob.
What amplifier did you use ?
yes sir
hi, what speakers are using?
Wondering how this sub compared to a Brahma or SQL
Really learned a lot from this! I'm curious, how would someone setup their DSP if they don't own all the of measuring equipment?
I know it won't be as accurate but there is phone apps that could get you close enough
@@418lightning8 no way lol a phone is hella inaccurate
@@AudioEuphoria080a phone has a ridiculous amount of processing.
What DSP software is this?
Ok I'm gonna ask can I put 2 midrange speakers and 2 mid bass speakers bridge will it work or be bad idea ??
@hjcceril5491 bad idea then got it
I've got almost the exact same setup. Only getting 133 dbs. Vehicle isn't an suv but my chrysler 300 with the backseat down has plenty of airspace. What could I be doing wrong? That is a huge difference compared to yours.
Enclosure, electrical system...
Trunk vs hatch. Hatch will always be considerably louder. The only way to get a trunk build louder is remove the rear speakers and/or cut the center of the rear deck to allow more of your bass to reflect off of the glass. You're losing bass energy from vibration. The metal in the trunk turns your sound into rattles. Remove the material between the subs and the glass which is incredibly dense and your bass output will increase 🍻
Does the polarity check tool also work on tweeters?
Yes
I have a build planned for two of those 13.5 w7s, do you recommend buying two of those amps, or do I have to do something weird
Yes, two amps. HD1200's are solid for the 13W7AE's
@@CarAudioFabrication I’m sure you get a lot of quick questions, but if I’m going to make a dual w7 13.5 build, should I got for a sealed enclosure? Or maybe the question I should be asking is will the infrasonics still be amazing?
What ohm load is the vxi running?
In an earlier video, he states that it's wired at 3 ohms, coils in series.
And I’m out here with a tape measure, putting in feet and inches For my alignment lol
Did it out db the Rockford t2 build?
I came here to see if this question had been asked and answered yet. I have a brand new Rockford Fosgate T2 13” sitting in my closet. Fun Fact…I also own the T2 13” that he unboxed and built a system for. It’s also sitting in my closet. He shipped it to me packaged like it was brand new. I haven’t hooked it up either.
This is why a DSP is needed for every system. So you can control everything. Get better SQ. Your system will be focused instead of sounding like the speakers are playing everywhere. And you can take that same sub/box and put it in another car and it will not sound the same because every car's cabin is different....
Damn, this dude is nerd in out! And who’s gonna be able to afford all that testing equipment anyway?
I went to your site. It’s a shame that you can’t build that box to order.
I'll sell this exact one to you. Message me if interested via the website
play Tranx by Bass Mekanik
;)
How do you do this with REW?
You would need a USB audio interface with two channels for a loopback to measure phase. For multiple mics like the max you would have to buy the multi mic version of REW as well. It would be better to use a different program other than REW for multi mic arrays like Smaart V9, but it is a out $160 for a year subscription of LE or almost $500 for a lifetime key. Everything can be done I. REW, but nowhere near as easy.
@@TickleFingers can you use the reference signal and still be able to use REW?
I'm less familiar with REW and the use of the reference signal used for timing
She gets down
Me after hooking up system: “Haha subwoofer goes brrrrrrrrrrrrrrr”
146 sounds like a pretty big number to me
That sub will last FOREVER running off of that amp at 3 ohms. I am currently running a Down 4 Sound JP23v2 @ .75 ohms, in order to take full advantage of the 13W7's mechanical limits. I once burped a 50 Hz tone and measured 2,980 watts with an SMD AMM-1 and my amp is turned down as to not let the voice coil bottom out against the back of the magnet!
Anyone here can please give me some specs for a 15" Solobaric L7 4 ohm…?
If you want a cheap but good solution for impedance and S parameters measurement, buy a Dayton Audio DATSv3(v2?)
Only about $120.
I swear the world is manifestations. I swear because I just pulled mine out of the trunk. Because i'm getting no signal and i'm wondering if I blew it. I feel no crunchies and now i'm pulling the amplifiers out. I have to test them why they are powered up and i'm getting no signal. It's one of those days. But it's weird that I get recommended the same. Looking box with the same speaker, it's definitely artificial algorithm.
I pray JL doesn’t go cheapo on us since they were just acquired by garmin.
A man how can I make a good box for 6.5 sub .
Start by getting a bigger sub first.
Other than competition for bass I don't see why anyone would tune their low end any other way
I'm not convinced time alignment makes sense in a car environment. You can't time align for every seat in the vehicle meaning only 1 seat will have properly aligned audio. I think just having no delay is fine.
You need to sit in a vehicle with a proper tune that has a NO TA preset and then one with TA. If you know what you're listening for the difference is staggering. Also there are strategies we can use with phase and additional drivers to make every seat in the vehicle sound good.
@@CarAudioFabricationevery seat soud good? (Cough) Video (Cough)
I have a preset on my dm608 that is time aligned for just me in the driver position, 1 other preset for my kiddo in the back seat and another with balanced stereo, besides the sub of course. Works great, shifts the imaging of the sound stage to center whilst sitting in the drivers seat.
A simple answer, it makes every sense to have TA done for any system that you are listening to whatever the environment is, if you are listening from any offset position. In other words, if you are not sitting at the center of all the speakers that surrounds you, even may be a 2 stereo channels, you need to get the Time alignment done.
I have a JL Audio TwK-88 and when I am giving a demo, I just change presets so that the passenger seat is in the "sweet spot" and is time aligned. I also switch the sweet spot to my side while they are sitting there and the difference is staggering.
I recently bought two 12w6v3s and was so excited to hear them but was let down when they sounded similar to my single skar 12" zvx and didn't have nearly as much bass.
What amp were you using?
Bad box
Have both subs and there is no way a single skar zvx is outperforming two w6's. You are definitely doing something wrong. I only have one w6 and while the zvx plays a little louder, I know for a fact that if I added another w6, it would definitely out perform the single zvx. Hands down. Sub for sub, the output capability of the w6 isn't that far behind the zvx, although the zvx is noticeably louder, but not nearly as drastic as you claim. And that's just single sub vs single sub. Adding another w6 would easily outperform the single skar zvx. The zvx has more xmax, but it would need alot more xmax than it currently has to overcome the cone area that two 12" drivers have. I mean, look at the numbers. A quick google search tells us a skar zvx 12" sub has 24mm of xmax. a w6 sub has 18mm of xmax. Being that both are 12" drivers, they basically have the same cone area. Sub for sub, of course the skar should be louder, its cone can move further in both ways, which in turn moves more air. However, adding another w6 DOUBLES the cone area, which takes the 6 mm xmax advantage of the zvx right out of the equation. Double the piston area makes a bigger impact on the output than 6mm of xmax. If you had said you had a 12" sundown zv6, which has an insane 38mm of xmax at 70% bl(!!) Then I'd believe you. 38 mm of xmax is an insane amount cone movement, and I believe that would definitely move more air than two w6's. However, after comparing the skar zvx to the w6 in my car, I can say with 100% confidence that two w6's would outperform a single zvx. the zvx is definitely louder than a w6 sub for sub, but two w6's? Nope.
2 12w6 of any version should stomp a mud hole in the zvx's ass the box configurations and volume is a major factor you can EZ'ly make a 1000 subwoofer sound like trash and vise versa with a cheap sub
not even possible.
It’s a good subwoofer but just way over priced.
until u hear one.
@@jondoe6618 hear my Skar VXF-15 it sounds 95% as good as this wad of Benji bois 😂
And it's $300, not 1800 LOL
@@bailey2517 nope. I’ve had almost every brand. Not much beats jl audio for quality.
@@bailey2517 especially skar subs. Not even in the same planet. And I have several.
I still remember when the w7s first came out years ago and they only seem to have improved
i wish you'd work with sundown subs.
Let em know!