I have had my 2.4 running for about a month, and never used a mesh, and had about 90% success rate. Was new to printing ABS so took some time to learn it and tune my profiles. Was getting great prints, hardly ever had to adjust anything. Once i started messing with meshing, now my success rate is about zero. Don't know what i am doing wrong, but with manual leveling able to get great first layers, as soon as I implement bed meshing (KAMP) now my success rate is about zero. Definitely something i am not understanding or doing right. I have 2 other printers and had similar problems with them. Can run them great with manual leveling, but running meshes just messes me up. For some reason my meshes always show up around 2mm low. Using Z endstop and inductive probe. This printer is a high quality LDO kit, so pretty sure the physical bed should be good. Of course, if you have been printing for more than about 5 years, manual leveling is no problem, used to be the standard. But I spent 2 grand on a high quality kit because I want all the fancy, and all the speed. (Ender 3 S1 pro and CR10S are my other printers, 50mm/s printers)
9months later i've mad alot of changes. New tool head, top mount x rail, beacon probe. its quit a different machine now. when i do ABS, I heat to high 60C and let it settle for a good 10mins. I run my bed now at 80% power. and bed fans at 80% I only run 2 bed fans. yes the Z offsets adjusts alot from cold to heat up. do a few QGLs and Z homes. its pretty good and reliable. but yes lots, change with temperature.
Several days ago I just teared out my magnetic bed because my aluminium plate is too bend (0.3mm deviant). Never know that I could just need to put some paper under the bend part to level it out.
Just finishing off my voron build and not done a bed mesh yet, but the prints are looking great and no issues so far. Still going to do one to see how bad/good the bed is tho.
I was wondering more about ventilation under aluminijum pleit.. Dow did you connect them and software.. Would give some description.. I need to fix friends V2.4
Printing paper. This is nuts!
I have had my 2.4 running for about a month, and never used a mesh, and had about 90% success rate. Was new to printing ABS so took some time to learn it and tune my profiles. Was getting great prints, hardly ever had to adjust anything. Once i started messing with meshing, now my success rate is about zero. Don't know what i am doing wrong, but with manual leveling able to get great first layers, as soon as I implement bed meshing (KAMP) now my success rate is about zero. Definitely something i am not understanding or doing right. I have 2 other printers and had similar problems with them. Can run them great with manual leveling, but running meshes just messes me up. For some reason my meshes always show up around 2mm low. Using Z endstop and inductive probe. This printer is a high quality LDO kit, so pretty sure the physical bed should be good. Of course, if you have been printing for more than about 5 years, manual leveling is no problem, used to be the standard. But I spent 2 grand on a high quality kit because I want all the fancy, and all the speed. (Ender 3 S1 pro and CR10S are my other printers, 50mm/s printers)
9months later i've mad alot of changes. New tool head, top mount x rail, beacon probe. its quit a different machine now.
when i do ABS, I heat to high 60C and let it settle for a good 10mins. I run my bed now at 80% power. and bed fans at 80% I only run 2 bed fans.
yes the Z offsets adjusts alot from cold to heat up. do a few QGLs and Z homes.
its pretty good and reliable.
but yes lots, change with temperature.
Why you only use 2 fan now ?@@jc84com
Several days ago I just teared out my magnetic bed because my aluminium plate is too bend (0.3mm deviant). Never know that I could just need to put some paper under the bend part to level it out.
Just finishing off my voron build and not done a bed mesh yet, but the prints are looking great and no issues so far.
Still going to do one to see how bad/good the bed is tho.
I was wondering more about ventilation under aluminijum pleit.. Dow did you connect them and software.. Would give some description.. I need to fix friends V2.4
How do you add TMC temperature to klipper? Did you use external termistor?
External thermistor wedged in the heat sync fins
How are you getting motors and pi temp readout?
#####################################################################
# TEMPERATURE SENSORS
#####################################################################
[temperature_sensor Chamber]
sensor_type: Generic 3950
sensor_pin: PF5
#MOTOR B OCTOPUS
[temperature_sensor TMC2209_Motor_B]
sensor_type: Generic 3950
sensor_pin: PF6
#EXTRUDER
[temperature_sensor TMC2209_Extruder]
sensor_type: Generic 3950
sensor_pin: PF7
#RASPBERRY PI
[temperature_sensor Raspberry_PI]
sensor_type: temperature_host
#OCTOPUS
[temperature_sensor Octopus_MCU]
sensor_type: temperature_mcu
@@jc84com thanks 🙏
What do you gain?
55grams of weight if you install TAP...