Like this and hope it all pans out. I used klicky before tap and could never get my head around why the same process that worked for klicy would'nt work for tap. I see this was 4 months ago - how has it progressed?
In theory your offset should be the same. But for me this is not the reality. Nozzle temperature and chamber temperature can influence the offset. I have up to ~0,04mm difference between printing PLA and ABS. I have this “issue” on 2 Vorons and already spent several hours diagnosing it. In the end my result was that some plastic parts of Tap are expanding and if you add the hotend thermal expansion its enough to get a bad first layer. When you check out the Tap Discord channel it seems like I’m not the only one having this problem.
@@ibot9828I mostly agree, that's why I heat my bed and set my nozzle to 150 C so I get as close to printing conditions. Then I do my pre-printing conditioning: Clear Bed Mesh, Scrub Nozzle, Home All, QGL, Homing again, run Bed Mesh, and then ready to print. I used to run my Z-Calibrate but not anymore with Tap.
Yes, you don’t need a endstop for tap. But in order to realize a full automatic offset calibration you need a second reference. With tap you normally have to dial in your offset setting. I don’t have to do this anymore. I could disassemble and assemble my whole printer without calibrating my z-offset with PROBE_CALIBRATE, bed level tests or similar. This is a concept on how full automatic first layer calibration could work, not the 1000th tap showcase video. More information in the description.
I dont get the use of this. Isnt the voron tap a nozzle probing?! Why should you calculate the zoffset with an hexbolt and the nozzle while you can just probe the nozzle to bed with the tap?
@@aikokiss9529 tap is a nozzle probe. It doesnt matter which build plate or nozzle. It always probes the distance of the nozzle to buildplate. I dont have tap but i guess thats how it works
@@sgerwald thats correct. the offset never changes at all. The offset itself, is actually the travel distance between the "default position" and the "activation position". You can swap toolheads, nozzles, build plates whatever. it wont change unless you change stuff on TAP itself
im about to try this myself but instead of a microswitch I designed a button that uses optical interrupters so you can safely crash into it and also wont suffer from the eventual wearing out of microswitches. (microswitches also suffers from bouncing so they need a debounce)
that's cool. i have a problem with z offset. try multi time probe calibrate but every time i run G29. it's change the z offset. can u share me the project. i really want to try it.
every time you change the z offset, you need to either manualy dial in the z offset in the printer.cfg file or run after the z offset calibration SAVE_CONFIG
Sounds interesting and promising. Definitely keep us up to date with your project .
I am very interested !! looking forward to your macros and files being published.
Oh ha, sehr nice👌🏼!!
Like this and hope it all pans out. I used klicky before tap and could never get my head around why the same process that worked for klicy would'nt work for tap. I see this was 4 months ago - how has it progressed?
With tap you only need to dial in z-offset once. No need for auto z offset calibration. Changing nozzle or bed or hotend won’t change the offset.
In theory your offset should be the same. But for me this is not the reality. Nozzle temperature and chamber temperature can influence the offset. I have up to ~0,04mm difference between printing PLA and ABS. I have this “issue” on 2 Vorons and already spent several hours diagnosing it. In the end my result was that some plastic parts of Tap are expanding and if you add the hotend thermal expansion its enough to get a bad first layer. When you check out the Tap Discord channel it seems like I’m not the only one having this problem.
@@ibot9828I mostly agree, that's why I heat my bed and set my nozzle to 150 C so I get as close to printing conditions. Then I do my pre-printing conditioning: Clear Bed Mesh, Scrub Nozzle, Home All, QGL, Homing again, run Bed Mesh, and then ready to print. I used to run my Z-Calibrate but not anymore with Tap.
My same thought.
Why do you use nozzle probe + z endstop? The endstop pin is obsolet
This is a concept on how to do full automatic Z calibration. How would you do this without the endstop? Simply not possible
@@ibot9828 tap is a nozzle probe. So the nozzle touches the print surface. There is no need for an external reference
Yes, you don’t need a endstop for tap. But in order to realize a full automatic offset calibration you need a second reference. With tap you normally have to dial in your offset setting. I don’t have to do this anymore. I could disassemble and assemble my whole printer without calibrating my z-offset with PROBE_CALIBRATE, bed level tests or similar.
This is a concept on how full automatic first layer calibration could work, not the 1000th tap showcase video. More information in the description.
How has this been working for you? Any updates
I dont get the use of this. Isnt the voron tap a nozzle probing?! Why should you calculate the zoffset with an hexbolt and the nozzle while you can just probe the nozzle to bed with the tap?
Exactly my thoughts. 🤔
But you have the endstop as well, you could use a different build plate
@@aikokiss9529 can you not now?
@@aikokiss9529 tap is a nozzle probe. It doesnt matter which build plate or nozzle. It always probes the distance of the nozzle to buildplate. I dont have tap but i guess thats how it works
@@sgerwald thats correct. the offset never changes at all. The offset itself, is actually the travel distance between the "default position" and the "activation position". You can swap toolheads, nozzles, build plates whatever. it wont change unless you change stuff on TAP itself
im about to try this myself but instead of a microswitch I designed a button that uses optical interrupters so you can safely crash into it and also wont suffer from the eventual wearing out of microswitches. (microswitches also suffers from bouncing so they need a debounce)
that's cool. i have a problem with z offset. try multi time probe calibrate but every time i run G29. it's change the z offset. can u share me the project. i really want to try it.
every time you change the z offset, you need to either manualy dial in the z offset in the printer.cfg file or run after the z offset calibration SAVE_CONFIG
u should try cleaning the nozel after each probe also retracting a bit so u dont get leekage on the bed
Looks like it is taping on the edge of the bed to avoid making hole on the pei. Its my guess...
At the rear is a specially machined hex bolt which functions as an endstop. More information in the description
Spider hotend?
Dragon HF