5.3L 2002 Chevrolet Tahoe 4x4 Oil Pan Gasket Removal and Replacement
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- čas přidán 20. 08. 2024
- Here we replace the oil pan gasket on a 2002 Chevrolet Tahoe 4x4 with the 5.3L engine. I mention not seeing oil leaking onto the flexplate and conclude that the rear main seal wasn't leaking. BUT, the rear main seal on this generation of Chevy engines is contained in a REAR COVER. The rear cover has its own gasket and that WAS LEAKING! I've got another video coming on that one. BTW, torque specs are available online and for free through your local public library!
Very insightful video! Especially mentioning the torque specs on the pan. I recommend the viewers change the Oil Pickup Tube O-Ring seal, at the Oil Pump, while doing this job. I had to replace mine due to NO oil pressure on cold starts in my 05 escalade; which is the reason i had to drop my oil pan. Great video again👍
I'm glad you can drop the pan and change it from there
I have that issue in my 05 Yukon Xl,no pressure on cold starts
Instead of riveting you can strip the paper off some bread ties/Twisties, and run it through two adjacent holes and put a couple twists in the wire. Then once you got it in place with 4 corners started, you can undo the ties and pull them out. Have also seen others use zip ties and clip them off after
80% of this repair is moving other parts out of the way.
Yeah, replace the oil pickup o-ring...WE HEARD ALL OF YOU now shut-e. Does anyone read the comments before spouting off the same shite. And stop bitchin about cameras (frame per second). This guy took the time to film/edit and upload a video that covered the repair and did a great job. Thank you for the video!!!!! I was trying to see if I could do the job without pulling the front axle completely. Looks like with some finesse, I can.
thank you soo much for letting me know about the open cracks in the corners of block. No one else really spoke about it.
I Agree that's why you research all these Guys show you who knows What there Doing and Others Just trying to get a Channel
Love the video. It sure cuts through all the BS that some say what needs to be done to replace the oil pan gasket. Before seeing this, I was bemoaning the fact that I had to practically dismantle the front differential, starter, CV joints, etc. Now, it just going to be a better DIY day. Thank you.
Did list last week on my 02 Suburban 1500. The front diff needed to come down about 6 inches for the pan to get out. It was terribly dirty and was glad I had a solvent tank to clean everything in. Thankfully it looks like the rear main seal was not leaking. Getting the oil pickup tube seal replaced was a bit fiddly as it didn’t want to go in. All back together and no leaks. Took about 5 hours total to do.
Thank you so much! I watched so many videos and this was the only one that showed me why my pan was still leaking! The RTV on the corners. Good work, bro!
Thanks for the tip , now I can finally replace my gasket
It’s a good idea to replace the oil pickup tube O ring. They get hard with age & suck air causing low oil pressure.
You should replace the oil pickup tube o-ring while you are in there. I have had two 5.3 have oil pressure problems when cold because of this. Both happened right around 200,000 miles.
Great point!
Same. About to hit 190k and around 180 my PSI is now 37-38 instead of solid 40. It’s consistently at 40 while cruising and goes up when I give it gas, so that’s good. But I’m due for an oil pan drop, pickup tube, maybe pump too.
I tell ya, removing a starter with that oil pan on is almost as difficult as that rear main seal job you mentioned! Maybe it was just my lack of patience lol. Anyways thanks for the good information, helped a bunch! The truck im working on is lifted, so no fight with the axle, however the pickup tube wont let the pan squeeze out. Im going for the engine hoist I already have out. Seems that extra half inch of lift should let me slide her out..
Many of you commented that I should have replaced the Oil Pump Pickup Tube O-ring seals. It didn’t occur to me at the time I did the job, but I agree with you. As a matter of good practice, I recommend replacing those O-rings when doing this job. For anyone like me who overlooked this step, I can say the Tahoe is still in service with normal oil pressure. If the pressure drops, I’ll know right away what to fix! Thanks folks!
Great video. Terrible camera
Nice video, doing the same job on a 2002 3500 for a customer, only difference besides a little more clearance is the amount of oil everywhere.
Thanks. I'll be doing this job soon and this helps a lot!
Great video. Personally, the only thing I would have done differently while the pan was off would be to put new bearings in it, an oil pump, front timing set and change out the O-ring for the dipstick tube. There is also the oil filter adapter plate on the drivers side of the engine that needs to be replaced.
Otherwise these are great vehicles and last a really long time if you take care of them.
Replace bearing ,timing chain and all there things listed. Rip the person off for profit. You ever got to work on my vehicle and pulled that. I'd own your business if had one. This reason why people have trust issues with mechanics who rob them
@@lh6213 Merry Christmas to you too pal.
@Skrix Fox Merry Christmas 🎅... I'm not your Pal. Don't take kindly to people who rip off others. Nice reply
@@lh6213 I was coming more from a private owner who does most of his own work on vehicles. However, I completely agree about shops that rip people off.
@@SkrixFox
I think LH has been ripped off one too many times lol
Thanks for the video. I am going to remove the front axle though instead of wiggling around it.
Thank you Tim Allen
My gasket came with two holes (rear and front ) with extra silicone to capture two bolts as starter bolts. Another trick is to place two zip ties inside two bolt holes. I actually changed the O ring on the pickup tube and installed a full brace on the Oring clamp utilizing both holes.
I'd say the major part of my experience was just cleaning and prepping the parts and fasteners to be reinstalled. Everything else was pretty easy.
Te felicito es un muy buen video muy educativo
just got a low oil pressure light pop up after i replaced my oil pan and gasket. rtv was used everything seems sealed but it showed up after running a little bit.
Прекрасная , наглядная видеоинструкция.
Checking for leaking the new oil filter was already dripping oil
Yes cringed at not replacing the pick up tube o-ring, #1 reason for pulling the pan on these engines! But very informative video otherwise. 👍🏻
Very good video sir thanks for sharing your knowledge
Hermano limpie el carter y el colador y cambie el orrin de el pescador . Pero tenfo baja presion de aciete . La valvula que lleva oor la parte de el filtro esta trancada . Necwuato ayuda
good job Clayton
I actually have to get ready to do this to mine the o Ring I believe is tore on the oil pick up tube
This helped! Thanks 😻
Hey Dude................ I hoped you replace the oil pick-up O ring as well, while you had the pan off!
Curious why not replace pick up tube o ring while in there ?
Nice video. Wish you would have shown the riveting procedure.
Sorry that wasn’t shown. I used a hand pop rivet gun from Harbor Freight. The hole in the gasket was a smaller diameter than the hole on the oil pan deck so I drilled out the gasket as necessary. It was no more difficult than other sheet metal riveting work. I like practicing pop rivet skills on some scrap for proficiency if I haven’t done it in a while. Best of luck with your project!
Excellent video. Thx
Great video! Proof that you don't need to take the front diff out completely......did you disconnect any of the electrical connectors on the diff before dropping it down?
Do you guys prefer the gasket to ultra gasket maker?
VERY. VERY. IMPORTANT. RE-CONNECT THE GROUND WIRE TO THE PAN OR YOUR TRUCK WILL NOT START!
Good video - Very bad oil filter choice
HOw critical is "oil Pan Alignment"? My 2000 5.3 silverado has that stamped on it. How do you align the pan? Thanks
My 2006 gmc sierra has and oil leak on the funt over under where the oil pan is and it sounds like the bottom end is make nose at start up qnd it 4x4 I heard you have to take the 4x4 out all the way is that true
Should have done the oil pick up tube O ring too.
I just wanted to know why my oil pressure was low and gauge was jumpy like garbage.
Why wouldn’t you do the oil pickup while you’re in there,,,,,?
I started off by doing a rear main seal job, come to find out that my rear main seal isn't leaking but I'm going to put a new gasket and seal in the rear cover and rear main seal anyways. My oil pan was the main source of the leak, where it fits up against the rear cover. In what order should I put them on? Got tranny off already so it should be much easier to take pan out
All that work and you didn't replace the oil pump pick up tube O ring...guess it'll be back when there's No oil pressure 😂
Should have replaced the o ring on the pickup tube while you were in there.
How long did it take to do the job
My silverado oil pan has a hair line crack, can that be fixed or must I get a new pan thanks.
I have a 2005 silverado 1500 6.0L. I had low oil pressure issue, especially during cold months. I watch several CZcams videos like yours and replaced the oil pan gasket as well as the o-ring in the pickup tube. When I started the project I had about 30-34PSI. Now I have 2-3 PSI showing on the gauge. What would you recommend happened and what should I look at. A couple caveats, I did not use gasket sealer and the head of the bolt securing the pickup tube decided to sear off when tightening so I had to modify the tube so I could rotate the tear drop piece to use the other hole to attach the tube. I currently have no oil leaks but obviously with not enough pressure, its hard to know whether there are any. Thanks for your help.
Please let me start off with a disclaimer. I am not a professional mechanic but rather a guy with years of wrenching experience starting with my dad teaching me as a teenager. The only quick fix I can think of is maybe your oil pressure sensor isn’t connected properly. If you find it disconnected, it’s probably safe to reconnect it and start the engine. Otherwise, Please don’t run that engine with essentially no oil pressure because the main and/or rod bearings can fail in a matter of seconds. If they do, the engine would have to be rebuilt or scrapped. I suggest obtaining a shop manual-the public library is often a good source and they may have it online. You’ll need to investigate the oil pressure sensor, oil pump, oil pump drive, and associated plumbing. Good luck!
Oil pump my dude. I had the same issue and went to the chevy dealership after doing EVERYTHING prior to a total engine rebuild or oil pump and the guy said those pumps are a dime a dozen. He sees them come in broke all the time. Especially if your at 200k + miles. Goodluck my man.
Oil pump bro
Any updates on your issue? I would think you may have gapped the O Ring when you repositiioned the "tear drop " bracket. That doesn't make sense 30 psi and then to almost zero. My second guess was the pressure regulator valve. You had 30 psi cold. All of a sudden after the new Oring, pressure shoots up to past 60 psi then falls due to the Pressure Regulator getting stuck "open". Interesting scenario please adivse.
should of replaced the oil pickup o ring while you had the pan off
Thanks Robert, that would have been a good step to take. If the oil pressure starts going down, I'll plan on doing just that!
I'm about to do the o ring. Thanks for the video.
do you think that a 3 inch body lift and 2" torsion bar upgrade that lift the front diferential will save the space i need to remove the oil pan in my tahoe?
I don’t know, maybe! I had the vehicle on a lift, disconnected the front axle from the frame and lowered it. It wasn’t as difficult as I thought it would be. And that provides enough clearance to get the oil pan out. You’re wondering if the lift kit allows you to skip the step of disconnecting the axle. I’d say it’s worth a try! Good luck!
On the truck me and my brother were working on, the lift allowed us to remove the pan from the pickup screen without any problems
Thanks, a good video. I can't seem to find this anywhere, what is the torque for the two bolts on the attachment above the oil filter. On my gas 6.0 L Isuzu NPR-HD this is where the oil coolant lines attach. I have the service manual but it does not mention the torque for this.
Since it's going into aluminum I speculated 106 "inch" pounds, like the rest 10mm aluminums.
This video would be better if it wasn’t in 15fps
Does the front tire need to be free floating to lower the differential?? Can I do this with wheel ramps or better on jack stands?? Good video. Everyone grinds their teeth about this maintenance lol. Got a 03 Yukon that I’m very certain needs this done.
The front axle is short and drives the wheels through halfshafts like a FWD. So the front tire can be anywhere. Please check my other videos about this repair. Sometimes it’s the rear cover that leaks. Thanks, and good luck!
how much torque is needed for the oil pan
106 inch pounds. Other specs are available online, at the public library, or in a shop manual. Good luck with your project!
@@claytonpflieger9394 I appreciate it!
Oil pan to block bolts 18ft lbs
Transmission to oil pan bolts(2 big ones going through bellhousing) 37ft lbs
Transmission to rear main bolts(2 long skinny ones) 106 INCH lbs
Do I need to keep the Rivets on a rwd oil pan 5.3?
More vídeos for Tahoe 4×4
Why would you change the oil pick up tube rubber O ring ? You're already in there and it only takes few mins and couple bucks for part. This is why I work on my own stuff and have own business. This is just common sense, and saves owner down the road.
Good video. So you don't need to put a bead of RTV when you put then new gasket on the pan? Just sits on there? When I did my rear differential I needed high temp RTV for the gasket.
The gasket comes with a built in silicon rubber seal supported by a metal frame. That type of gasket won’t need additional RTV. However there are the corners at the back of the block. These need a little bead of RTV - check the repair manual for more details and good luck!!
Do I Need a Jack For The Differential???
I would have, but you can muscle the diff back up.
I Got It Done Last Weekend It Wasn’t Too Bad
Thanks For The Informative Video
I supported the front differential with a pole jack, which also made it easier to put the differential back in place.
Did you add any rtv to the oil pan then the gasket placed on top?
I riveted the gasket to the pan. It worked pretty well but would have been better if I had the exact same pop rivets they used at the factory. Hardware store robots were close, but not perfect. The holes in the metal portion of the gasket were small in diameter and had to be drilled out. Fixing the gasket in place with rivets would help if you’re crawling under a truck jacked up in the driveway. Under ideal conditions in a shop with a lift, a person could probably install the gasket and pan without any rivets or fixing the gasket to the pan. As it says it the manual you need to cover a back corner of the block with a short bead of RTV on each side. I don’t see why a person couldn’t glue the gasket to the pan with some RTV to help it stay in place during install. There are a lot of ways to get the job done! Good luck!
Is the rtv necessary in those corners? Asking cause I recently installed and only placed rtv between gasket and oil pan.
I used RTV in the corners because the shop manual called for it. I wouldn’t recommend skipping that step. Perhaps you sealed the gaps adequately with your technique and you won’t have any leaks! Best of luck!
@@claytonpflieger9394 I haven't torqued the pan down. My manual said four corners also but didn't specify the block just the pan. Ill have to drop the pan a bit and apply rtv in those spots. Dammit! thanks for the videos
What a pain in the ass. On some of the trail blazers the front axle goes through the oil pan. 🤦🏻♂️
Is the new oil filter leaking?
No, the new oil filter isn’t leaking. I had filled it with oil as much as I could before install and some of the residual dripped down. The actual oil leak afflicting our Tahoe was the engine rear cover. I have another video for that repair. These oil leaks can be tricky to diagnose and, in our case, we fixed stuff that wasn’t leaking before getting to what was! A rear cover leak will look like a rear main seal leak, but the flex plate may be dry and oil may appear to be leaking from the starter!
What the price ranges fixing the oil pan gasket on Yukon XL 1500 4w drive?
Why does the video look so choppy? Can't even tell what you're doing because of it
Is this the same procedure to do on a 5.3 Hummer h3 alpha?
I don’t know, but the shop manual would say. You can usually get them free at your local library. Ours had an online manual.
This guy needs a laser pointer so he can actually pinpoint certain things that he talking about for people that's never done the job before such as myself I need to do an oil pan gasket replacement on my Z71 2002 Tahoe and that is a very big job and I cannot afford to have someone else do it for me unfortunately, so we need to just RTV gasket everything and save fucked all the bullshit
I think I am just going to let the oil lubricate the underside of my truck instead of going through all of this to remove the oil pan. This has the be the stupidest design to put the oil pan.