Chevy Silverado Oil Pan Gasket Replacement How-To
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- čas přidán 11. 09. 2022
- This video will show you how to replace the oil pan gasket on various years the of the Chevy Silverado, Tahoe, Suburban, Avalanche, Express, Trail Blazer, GMC Sierra, Yukon, Savana, and Cadillac Escalade. This was done on a 2002 Chevy Silverado with a 5.3l but this procedure and pan gasket will also work on the 6.0, 5.7, 6.2, and 4.8l vortex engines. Pan gasket, oil pickup tube o-ring and oil filter were purchased from Amazon and I have provided a link to both parts below.
Fel-Pro Oil Pan Gasket: amzn.to/3RQd3CvAcdelco
Mahle Oil Pickup Tube O Ring: amzn.to/3d4Ezxq
Oil Filter: amzn.to/3qsGOO0 - Jak na to + styl
WE HAVE TO ADMIT THIS IS THE BEST VIDEO ON THIS PAN GASKET AND O RING REPLACEMENT BY FAR !!
This is the most thorough video on a Chevy oil pan gasket that I have seen. I wish I would’ve seen this before I started!
I know you have heard this over and over but I didn’t want to attempt this job. I looked at multiple videos and they are very misleading. Lack of information. But because you did such a incredible job, I finished it today with no issues. And you made that possible. Thank you.
Ive watched a lot of how to videos on youtube, have to...I own a 05 silverado with 250,000 on it. This was hands down the most chill, informative, thorough I have ever watched, walked away totally confident to attack the task at hand. This is the first time leaving a comment on anything ever. You are the go to.....Thank you
Glad I was able to help you out. It’s comments like yours that keep me going and gives me the motivation to continue these type of videos. Much appreciated brother. 👍🏻
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE 13:02
Best video anyone has done on this task.
You my friend are an expert mechanic and videographer, thanks for making such a great how to video.
Finally someone that knows to change the oil pickup tube oring.. Very good explanation sir. Thanks.
Excellent video, was able to replace my rod bearings with it. What a difference it has made!
What all was involved with replacing the rod bearings,
and what benefit did you feel afterwards?
You remove the oil pan first. Then you remove the oil uptake pipe (only 3 easy bolts), make sure you buy the o-ring gasket for the pipe as the old one usually is compressed to the point of leaking, a new one will noticeably increase your oil pressure which causes smoother running and less engine wear. Then you remove the engine shroud (about 6 or 8 easy yo remove nuts). Now you are looking at the crankshaft and pistons, each piston rod has two easy to remove bolts after which you can easily remove each set of rod bearings and spin the crankshaft using a large socket wrench and socket on the front of the crank pulley. New rod bearings make your engine run much smoother and they are considered a maintenance/wear part that should be changed every 75,000 to 175,000 miles. An LS engine can go over 400,000 miles if you make sure you have fresh rod bearings in it.
@@pilatv8, good to know.
Also, I've heard of piston slap on cold starts. Sometimes confused w the lifter tick noise. Does replacing the bearings solve for that noise? I know the o-ring usually solves for the valve tick. Any truth to that?
Well done sir! So satisfying to see well narrated in depth how to videos.
Watched multiple videos.. they were taking out front drive shaft, front diff, axles... i got very curious as to if its doable wothout all that nonsense..thanks for showing me it can be done without being fancy.. now i have the confidence to do it lol.. great video, appreciated your help!
Completed it yesterday, went smooth, and this truck purrs like a kitten now..super quiet, great dry/cold starts.. thanks to a $5 o-ring and some labor. Thanks again for the time save, and super clear instructions
Out of all the videos I’ve watched you showed the one step I needed to know. Thank you. Even the smallest steps count. 👍
Every other video I’ve watch I trying to see the torque specs and you are the only one that showed that I appreciate it thank you
Mad shout out to you! Your video covers what was missing from all others with that wiring harness retention device. Didn't see anything online or other videos about that. Thank you!
Amazing video, everything you showed is spot on and the torque specs really helped. Have a 06 Silverado 5.3 Z71 4x4 and everything went relatively smoothly I replace the oil pan gasket and pump o-ring which she went from 20 idle to 45, by far best video out there and hopefully she will stay oil leak free for a while, thanks for the helpful video!
This is the most comprehensive video of this job I've found so far. I'm about to tackle this job tomorrow to replace the pickup O-ring on my 2004 suburban. I'll be keeping this video pulled up for reference during 👍 thank you for posting this
I truly thank you for your video. I'm big into doing a lot of my own repairs and research lots before doing anything and you gave me lots of help. Thanks again.
Hands down, the best video on YT for doing an oil pan on one of these. Thank you!
Best video I seen so far. Had to do this on my 6.0 today
Video well done I thought I would have to completely remove the whole front differential but seeing the way you did it save me so much work considering I'm doing this in the street in front of my house video well done.
Great video with good lighting. Most of these are too dark. I used your zip tie trick on my transmission pan gasket the other day, worked like a charm.
Just glad I don't have a 4 wd to do. I'll tackle all of this next week.do.
Well done video sir, exactly what is needed to be done👏🏻. Wish more CZcams channels were like this, don't need music and a bunch of useless information! ✌🏻 subscribed
This video was great thank you very much, helped me buy the tools I didn’t have and make me aware of what I’d be running into. To help out I put together a written list of what I used on mine
Tools:
- Worn out impact wrench
- drill
- 1/2 breaker bar (wouldn’t need this if my impact didn’t suck)
- 1/4 ratchet
- 3/8 ratchet
- 1/2 ratchet
- in-lbs tq wrench
- ft-lbs tq wrench
- (2) 6” 1/4 extension bars
- (2) 6” 3/8 extension bars
- 3” 3/8 extension bar
- 3” 1/2” extension bar
- 1/4 swivel
- 3/8 swivel
- 10mm shallow socket (both 1/4 and 3/8)
- 13mm shallow socket 1/4
- 15mm shallow socket 3/8
- 18mm shallow socket 1/2
- 21mm shallow socket 1/2
- 22mm shallow socket 1/2
- 18mm Cresent Wrench
- 22mm Cresent Wrench
- 10mm nut driver
- 45* small pick (to separate the oil level sensor)
- 9/64 drill bit (for rivets)
- snips (for zip ties)
- Jack
- 2 jack stands
Consumables:
- Mobil1 10w-40 full syn
- WIX 51522 Oil Filter
- Felpro OS 30693 Oil Pan Gasket
- Felpro 72435 Oil Cooler Gasket
- Melling M29517 Pickup O-ring Kit
- 2 small zip ties
- paper towels
- purple power
- brake cleaner
Sequence for Tube:
- Carefully press oil pickup tube back into block
- Snug then torque nuts and bolt to 106 in-lbs
Sequence for Pan:
- Snug short 10mm middle (bolts to block)
- Snug long 10mm rears (bolts to rear main)
- Snug short 10mm front (bolts to front main)
- Snug (2) 15mm rear (bolts to trans tunnel)
- Torque 18 ft-lbs short 10mm middle (bolts to block)
- Torque 106 in-lbs long 10mm rears (bolts to rear main)
- Torque 18 ft-lbs short 10mm front (bolts to front main)
- Torque 37 ft-lbs (2) 15mm rear (bolts to trans tunnel)
Thanks for the list this should help a lot of people out as well especially the torque specs.
I know these comments are a little old, but I'm getting ready to start this job and just trying to get my head wrapped around the torque sequences. I keep running into conflicting orders, and don't want to cause a leak down the road.
So if I understand right, snug all the bolts, then (1)-torque long 10mm bolts up into block.
(2) - snug & torque the 2 15mm bolts going into trans.
(3) Torque the pan bolts.
Correct me if I'm wrong, thanks.
@@randysmith1630you’ll want to save snugging and torquing the bolts to the front and rear seal covers for 2nd to last to avoid pulling those out of the area and causing a leak
I want to thank you so much for this video! I watched many others and they skip over important stuff. You really did a great job and this helped me tremendously!!!!! I started it late yesterday and got the pan out and cleaned and will put it back in today. Someone on here said to use Easy-Off oven cleaner to clean the pan and man did that work!!! Mine is now spotless! I had a hard time getting the pan out and had to keep lowering the front diff like you did. It was the pick-up tube getting hung up on the plate in the pan until it got more clearance. Also thank you to people who commented on the tightening and then torquing of the pan bolts. Combined with the order in the repair manual I now know how to put the bolts back correctly.
The camera angles and narration are top notch on this video!!! I can't afford a new Silverado, so gonna be doing the pickup o-ring to my 2006 just as soon as it warms up enough (since i can't get my truck all the way into my small 1 car garage). My pressure is between 30-40 but it's starting to flicker at times.... already changed out my op sending unit and confirmed that i have no little filter installed in the sensor hole. My truck needs this anyway, it has 187k miles. Thanks for an amazing video!!!
Wow, great job on this video!! The camera work was awesome and your explanation is very thorough. Again nice job.
Appreciate the video, I was laying under my truck trying to get the front diff out to do this same repair because everything I read said it had to come out, but it won't fit past the drag link, and I really didn't want to open the can of worms trying to disconnect the the pitman arm, and knew it would probably be twice as aggravating to get it back in afterwards, definitely going to utilize that zip tie trick as well
Great video - thank you! About to tackle this job on a 2005 Tahoe, it was just what I needed!
Update: Got it done today. Took about 5-6 hours, including cleaning and preparing the surfaces - all your tips worked! Had very little sludge to clean from the pan, surprising. Only thing I didn’t do was remove the lower diff bolt, just made it loose and the diff swung right down after the top bolt and passenger side nuts were removed - lots of room to get the pan out. O-ring wasn’t too bad, a bit flat, the new one jumped the pressure up a little. Pan seems to have sealed after a good idle and short test drive. Thanks again man!
Thanks a lot for the video, ill be doing this to my truck this weekend, i have all the parts and tools in vid to get the job done now, Thanks again
This looks like it will mostly apply to my 2002 Sonoma. Appreciate the vid!
Best video on this job👍
damn man, this is one hell of a tutorial. I did it on a 2012 and there are some minor differences (the diff is slightly different, and there’s a rack and pinion that needs to come down to do the job) but otherwise this still got the job done. Very informative and complete. Thank you for including torque specs. I also recommend installing an Improved Racing oil pickup brace. The factory pickup tube only has one mounting bolt, and this bracket ensures proper seating and seal of the O-ring. $10 to save the engine.
Thank you so much for this informative video. I was going to pay someone to do this for me, but I feel I might be able to tackle this myself.
Thanks for making this video. I just got done doing this and my oil pressure has increased by 30 psi at hot idle. It has increased quite a bit across the board. My pick up O-ring was cracked and missing a 1/4 inch section. Excellent video and instruction.
Well doing the pickup tube o ring on my truck finally and ran out of day light but got most of the bolts threaded back into the pan glad I dropped the pan prev owner neglected oil changes so much sludge and screen was caked in sludge all cleaned up ready for final assemble hopefully everything goes as planned fingers crossed 🤞at least I know now rear main isn't leaking at replaced the gasket on the pan and oil cooler block off plate best video I've found so far
Thank you for the explanations and the outstanding camera work (which by necessity includes great lighting). I've been sitting on these parts for a while, daunted by the unknown -- in addition to being a world class procrastinator.
Thanks to your guidance I finally tackled it and now the Suburban's oil pressure is where it should be! 👏
was it hard?
@@alex3I4_he's still procrastinating
Great video young man I really enjoyed watching it take care and God bless you your family and friends. ✝️✝️✝️
I love the way u explain everything in explain why he works grea
Calm, Confident, Professional
The zip tie trick on the gasket alone was worth the watch.
In depth explanation, great content. Thanks for sharing! 👍
thanks for the brake down man ill be doing my 01 Tahoe 4x4 hopefully this weekend.
Best video on this ever, thanks
I just finished this O-ring replacement thanks to your video. It was a tremendous help. 6 hours start to end of cleanup. I took plenty of (smoke) breaks, had to come back and watch more video each step and had to drop the rack and pinion and sway bar to remove the pan - not all the way, just take out the 4 mounting bolts on the rack and pinion and let it drop. My o-ring wasn't cracked or hard, it was still soft but it wasn't round anymore, it had flattened.
25 psi (variable) idle oil pressure - before
44 psi (rock steady) idle oil pressure - after
definitely made a huge difference and quieted down the lifters. Alas, I still have a clank that I hope is just a rocker or pushrod. I'll remove the valve covers and investigate another day.
Tip - if you have an oil cooler make sure you pick-up that gasket too. Fel-Pro 72462
Thanks a bunch, subscribed!
edit: I forgot - 6.2l flex fuel 2013 Silverado 4x4 crew cab, 110,000 miles
Clank, could be transfer case. Bolo.
We are replacing ours as well, a 2004 SL Extended Cab, RWD. Boy did we have issues! Especially when we found out there was a harness to remove! But we got it out and now to clean it up and put it back in. Good tip on using zip ties.
Excellent job on both the video & the fix. Sadly i will be doing this exact same thing tomorrow on my 06 silverado
Awesome video and narration
Have had a slow leak on my H2 for a while. Now I got the 20 psi oil pressure at start up and 40 at temp. Signs of a tired O ring. Fantastic step by step! Although I plan on when dropping the pickup tube, swinging the end mounting tab 180 to the outer mounting hole just in case me or someone else has to go in from the front timing chain cover. They can replace the oil pump without all the grief of removing and replacing the "inner" 10 mm bolt. Which I hear is a PITA. Fantastic vid again!
Heads up for any H2 owners. It's much easier. No need for a jack under the front diff. Front diff is held by one Driver side upper "vertical" bushing bolt/nut, one Driver side lower vertical bushing bolt/nut, and one Passenger side "horizontal" busing bolt/nut.
Remove the Driver side lower bushing bolt, remove Cross member and only back out the upper Driver side bolt until the nut is flush with end of the bolt. Let differential hang.
Then remove the passenger "horizontal" bushing bolt/nut and swing passenger axle down and to the front. Pan slips right out.👍
Thank you. Excellent summary. Will be doing this soon.
Very well done brother!!
thank-you very much mate,your a good mechanic, video done very good,....NICE JOB...YOU THE MAN !!
Excellent video and work. Thank you.
Only thing I would add is you can pry up on the old gasket and the rivets will pull out without drilling and replacing the oil cooler block off gasket by the oil filter. I just finished doing mine today. Easy job.
Your video made the job go bing bang boom...THANK YOU.
Great video! Thanks for taking the time.
Good video I have to pull mine to do the thrust bearing I think that's what keeps breaking the pump in my transmission so it's already out of the way so should be slightly easier to get the pan out
Great job young man, that is why I’ve always drove Chevrolet you could always use parts of one for another vehicle ford and mopar not so much, I appreciate you making this video and I would let you work on any of mine, I have to do this tomorrow on my 99 Silverado over 300,000 still runs great. (Subscribed).
love this job you perfect for me and hel me a lot thank you Bro.
Very thorough video i appreciate it my friend.
Great video!
Great video. All I have heard & seen is "You gotta pull the diff out. There is no way you are getting that pan out." Came out damn easy. Thanks for the torque specs also.... Not a hard job at all....
Wow you saved me some $$$ thanks for your video.
For that I subscribe
Best video ever thanks
What a great video. Now to do it myself 😅
Good video this is going to be this weekends project I have the exact color truck but mines an 05 with the L33 in it and mines got 238,000 sucks I have to tear it down this far for a 5 dollar o-ring on the sump tube but it is what it is I guess very informative good video
My lift kit made some of this job easier, no need to drop my front differential or remove crossmember but the lift frame prevented me from removing the oil pan bc of the pick up tube. I just had to get in between the pan and remove/ install the tube before the pan came completely off.
Million thanks for your time and talents in making this video. I followed it and things went very well... I thought maybe there might be a bolt or two that would not make it back in, but will little time and juggling it all worked out... Especially thankful for the part #'s off Amazon... and the hints about RTV on the corners, checking the screen on oil pickup, etc... A superb video AAA++++ p.s. for the oil sensor plug to make it easier to pull the plug out, i.e. get to the little holding tab, I merely unscrewed the whole sensor 1/2 turn and access was wide open at that point.
THATS A GOOD TIP , THANK-YOU BRO !!
That there's a good idea! @markheilman4001
Nice job thank you
Gracias buen tip de los sip taits gracias
Goood gooood video thnk yu,, aiam from saudia Arabia
Great Video, have a 2001 GMC z71 time to do the same…
Good work!
This is also a good opportunity to install diff drop brackets if you have any sort of lift on the front end to keep the angles happy with the axles
Nice job! My sons 2014 silverado oil pan is leaking terribly. Wish i could do the work!! Thanks for the info
Thanks so much for this video man! Did this repair myself over the weekend and replaced the oil pump pickup tube and o-ring, oil pan gasket, and cleaned the oil pan up really good. Took me all day but got it done. The hardest part was getting that bolt back on that was attached to the side of the oil pan above those lines! The zip tie trick probably saved me alot of headache as well! Appreciate it!
Awesome, I have a 2002 2500 HD w/ 6.0 and need to do this. Nice video and meticulous work, wish you were near Dallas. I'm 60 and my skeleton is gettin kinda tired.
I hear ya ... 65 and goinng to start on that monday. For us it may take a whole day...nahh. some today.. the rest next day.
One caution is you should snug the trans-to-bolts and pan-to-block bolts BEFORE you snug the pan-to-cover bolts (the two very long ones in the rear). Then torque the pan-to-block bolts, then the trans-to-pan bolts, and LAST the pan-to-cover bolts. If you torque the pan-to-cover bolts first, you might pull the rear cover out of alignment and cause a rear main seal leak.
I noticed that too, other than that a perfect job.
@Nicholas Mills The front and rear bolts on the oil pan bolt into the front and rear covers. The ones that bolt into the block are torqued first. The front cover has your front main seal, and the rear cover has your rear main seal. The rear bolts are easy to identify since their longer, but the front is the same length as the pan to block bolts.
Once the pan is torqued then the trans cover has two bigger bolts that bolts into the pan. The key is you don't want to torque those cover bolts, front or rear, before you do the pan to block as it may pull the covers out of alignment. I say may as most people would likely snug the middle bolts on the pan to block which once snug it's highly unlikely to pull the covers out of alignment.
@Nicholas Mills Yes on the sequence. The covers are made of aluminum and bolt to the front and rear of the block. They primarily have the front and rear main seals. The front cover is right behind the balancer and the rear cover is behind the flywheel. When the oil pan is dropped you will see a very clear difference in the front and rear compared to the sides as the covers are aluminum while the block is cast iron.
@Nicholas Mills I just did it on my 2001 2500 6.0L Suburban. The pan is the easiest.
@@brettsimpson530 just to be clear, after you torque the pan-to-block bolts, do you torque the trans-to-pan bolts or the pan-to-cover bolts?
Just did mine,i am sore from head to hips from sliding off creeper laying on sockets.Lost only one small bolt,but found a screwdriver i lost years ago lol.My oil pressure is higher than it has ever been 50 psi at idle,shoulda done it years ago.Also just did u joints and carrier bearing.whew four days.
I was looking for a video on how to replace the oil pan gasket on my GMC Sierra 1999 you need to edit your title add 4x4 great video none out there on 4x4. I think I might attempt my oil pan gasket , timing gears and chain plus oil pump myself now. You made it look doable 👍Liked the zip tir Idea great job but I would have saved the back tran 15 mm bolts for last think they might prevent tightening back of oil ban all the way up. I already did my upper so it would be a waste not to do the lower.
Very nice video. I hope this method will work for my 2005 Avalanch 4x4 1500 .The zip tie methode is brilliant. Used that methode on my wifes Town and country. "Zip Ties" who would of thought?. Course I used green ones and they worked also. All joking aside, Thanks!
Thanks! Yeah it should be the same for your avalanche.
Yep! Followed your procedure step by step and got-er done. Everything went pretty smooth for the most part. Only one hiccup. The threads for the pickup tube oring retainer got a bit stripped putting in the bolt. But was able to get a longer bolt and grab the threads at the bottom of the hole and used some blue locktight. It's not an easy place to drop in a heli coil.
Very good job. The one thing i would have done is let the rtv dry for a little while to cure before adding oil and stuff.
That's what I Tough you supposed to do for it to cure aleast 24h
I saw another video of someone taking the front diff off completely 😅 and i was like fuck im glad i found your video cuz i don't have a lift 😂 and im not trying to take off the front diff completely i was just gonna keep adding oil 😅 but the you did it makes it wayyyy easier lol i got a 05 Yukon
I wish this video existed a year and a half ago when I did mine I only made the leak worse lol good thing mine is 2wd
I'm gonna just throw AT205 at it and try to procrastinate on this job for as long as possible lol
bought 2001 2500hd 4x4 with a ridiculous 6inch lift on 35s. I got extra hardware to get around just to drop the pan
Thanks!
Thank you I really appreciate the super thanks and support. Glad I was able to help you out and hopefully saved you some money as well.
Awesome video ,i was wondering how far i would beed to pull the diff out of the way thanks 👍
I know a lot of places do it that way especially if it’s up on a lift. It is a little more involved but is doable.
That is a nice older truck. I would definitely like to buy one from 2002-2005. I saw one here in california for $11k and it only had 132k miles on it. But I own a hummer H2 so maybe later.
_$11k isn't a great deal but it's okay I've seen 140k ones for $8k in Ga tho._
@@DoctorRickSanchez I live in cali! Not cheap over here buddy! I do believe u saw one for 8k in your state. But I’m our great state of cali everything is expensive
❤
Well, I thought I had it pretty close. Was starting to torque the last bolt going into the trans, & it didn't want to tighten. Took the bolt out, and it had aluminum threads on it. The threads on the oil pan look ok from the front. Any ideas?
Done I just did mine
It’s a 6.0 2500hd
I had to disconnect drive shaft
Hey bro pro tip try easy off oven cleaner .. let sit 10-15 min . Soft wire brush and water hose she’s good as new
Great video. Gonna follow these steps and do mine next week.
How would you clean the pick up tube to make sure its not clogged up? Brakleen?
Thanks, Yeah brake cleaner will work just fine.
Was the truck ticking im trying to figure out wht my truck has ,pressure does sit below 40
Any idea why after doing this I’m leaking just on my left side bell housing bolt?
Is there a sequence on the pan bolts?... Snug them all. Then pan blots 18 ft lbs rear long 106 in lbs trans bolt 37 ft lbs?
What are the torque specs for the frint axel?
Tighten the two big 15 mm bolts LAST!
Are those diff bolts 21 or 22mm?.. I seen another video that says 21.
Gotta do the pick o ring on my 2005 sliverado 4x4. Not looking forward to it.
Is the 2001 tahoe 5.3l LT simular is the truck you work on? And yes it's a 4wd as well.
Yeah should be the same since the Tahoe pretty much shares the same chassis
How long did the repair take you? I need to change the O-ring on my pick up tube as well.
If I wasn’t recording probably would have taken a few hours.