Lock Stick on a Folding Knife - When Is It a Problem? What Can Be Done?
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- čas přidán 18. 12. 2020
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love that he didnt actually fix a knife with lock stick, super valuable use of my time
Thanks for the perspective. I just got a new 0562ti yesterday and it's been pretty rough on my thumb, with lock stick & Holy hell tight lockbar. It's already gotten better but every 3rd-4th flick I have to use my other hand to disengage. Just going to make it my primary carry for awhile. I got it on your recommendation though and so far the rest of it is amazing!
Every time my knife sticks I think, hm I must need to fidget with another couple hours.
#justified.
Stay long winded my friend. It’s your channel. And we’re watching.
I'm new to the hobby, thank you putting this all into perspective. Enjoying all your vids!
Thanks for this video. It definitely makes me feel better about my XM-18. It’s been pretty sticky ever since I put new titanium scales on it. The pencil helped a lot. You’re awesome dude!
A lot of Medfords have a lock stick bell curve that you just need to ride out...they start out smooth and stickless from new. As you open and close them, they progress into sort of sticky..then really sticky..then stuck shut needing a wedge tool...then once you break it open a few times they relax to really sticky..then sort of sticky...then stickless forever. For someone new to Medford this might be a terrifying ride...lol
I'm having that exact situation with a medford.Was tempted to send it in.Will ride it out.Thanks
Currently experiencing this on a Medford. Thanks for sharing experiences.
Question from your experiences and the comments. Just bought Gerber Fastball, (which has had reports of being a bit strong on the frame lock). Only first day, but had a couple of times when it jammed and needed both thumbs to push back. Also after a day of playing with it trying to break it in, both thumb and index finger (from flipping open) are hurting pretty badly, to the point can’t use my thumb to close. That normal and will work itself out or should I be concerned? Thanks for your help and the awesome videos.
I have five Ganzo FH-31 knives. It's my favorite Ganzo model. (Can you tell?). ONE of them is about 1-day old and suffers some lock stick (liner lock). I had considered putting half a smudge of 0.5 micron stropping compound on the mating surfaces to accelerate wear between the two surfaces BUT... I'll refrain, keep working with it, and let the two surfaces slowly mate together until things smooth out, or until my thumb gets so sore I have to just let the knife sit for a few days while I carry one of the others.
I stumbled across this video at the perfect time. Thank you or easing my concerns that I might have to do more than just work the lock repeatedly and wait for the surfaces to mate for a smoother release.
I had lock stick on my Full Track, it was hammering my thumb pretty bad and was virtually impossible to close one handed.. I used a small amount of some dry "lock "lube and even very fine sand paper on the contact points and it helped a lot, and just keep flippin'...
That .75 AR is still a great looking piece. 😊
You're correct about the need to be careful you aren't pushing against the lock bar - this is a real problem on my Kizer Lancer 2, a knife I otherwise love, but it is very hard to hold it "correctly" before actuating the flipper without thinking about it too much -- because even a tiny amount of side pressure from your little finger on the lock bar will cause the steel lock bar insert to press against the tang of the blade and this is enough to prevent opening. It drives me insane!
So my brand new knife was having some serious lock stick. Needed a coin top pry it open. After watching this video I just did that action over and over for 1 day. Now it's fine. This video save me the trouble of returning or trying other nonsense.
I have also hod some success with a soap stone chalk that boiler makers use to draw on steel with, its soft and you can sharpen a point on it to get into the back of the tang.
Thanks for this, just got a Penquin (finally) and it's got some significant lock stick. Actually hurts my thumb at the joint if I fidget with it a couple times. My thumbs are double jointed so it forces my thumb pretty far in a weird direction. Anyway, I nearly talked myself into disassembling and sanding the nanometer of "trouble area" and looked this up to verify the best way to do so. Ultimately I'm gonna leave it alone, I hope this doesn't take months but we shall see!
Great stuff! Do I have an issue if the lock on my PM2 lock is disengaging with a little „click“ sound?
I have an Emerson CQC 7 that had a CRAZY amount of stick that was so bad that I would need pliers to disengage sometimes. Took a really long time to get out and honestly, it still sticks because it locks up super late. But it’s also rock solid. Now I also have a southern grind that’s super early on lockup (titanium as well) and literally slips off if I just tap the spine with the meat of my palm. Bottom line, I’m okay with the stick/late lockup. It’s the early and slippery lock that I’m not wild about.
Good video MC! Very helpful. I used to freak out about stick when started collecting. Only time it didn't fix itself it turned out to be a defect.
The Knife Eclectic your a pickle knight. Lol well green helmet.
the lock stick makes my finger meat hurt....
Yes the lockstick is gone, and yes my fingers are fragile
I've noticed if I don't keep the back of my crooked river clean it gets some lock stick but it's as simple as getting a cotton swab and rubbing the dirt and lint off the surface the lock runs across
Great video. I'm fairly new to knives and own about 8 spyderco's including 2 Shamans that are killing me. I will keep playing with them and give it time. Thanks again for making this video! Scott from Texas
I wouldn’t call having 8 spydercos as being “fairly new” to knives haha
I sent 2 Zero Tolerance knives back due to lock stick... They fixed the problem and they're buttery smooth now. They sharpened them and now the grind is very uneven on both knives. Now they're drawer junk.
Then reprofile the blade yourself...or send them to me.
😂😂😂
I got a Maxamet PM2 today, it was sticking out of the box and it just got worse until it occasionally locked up almost solid.
I watched a badly shot video where the CZcamsr used dry graphite lubricant in the lock indent and solved a similar ( not as bad) problem. Not having (immediate ) access to graphite lubricant i used pencil lead scrapings and it ( for the moment at least) seems to have done the trick.
Nice video but im still frustrated with mine. Ha. Ive had a ZT 0400ST for many years. Use it every single day. When i go to close it, the blade goes halfway down and stops. I then have to push against a springy feeling to close it. I'm guessing thats the design, but can i do anything to adjust the tension so it drops down? Been looking for answer for so long.
I've got a ZT0561 Hinderer that when flipped open engages at least 60% and I have you use something to pry it open. I can not no way open this with my thumb. Very aggravating for such a nice knife. Wish I had known about the titanium lock bar issue before I bought this.
Really digging the grey background!!
My first XM was a gen 6 3.5 and interestingly it only had lock stick with the bearings installed. Just found it strange that with the Teflon or washers I had none whatsoever. Still definitely ran the bearings the majority of the time lol.
I’m glad I don’t have OCD about knife things. My OCD is related to other stuff.
Really loving the new background
What if the lock stick on my new xm18 is so bad that trying to unlock it makes a clicking noise and quite a bit of force?
I had a very good experience with polishing (not sanding!) the surfaces very carefully. There are often micro bumps or some production residues sticking on the metal. A soft polishing (without disassembling the parts) will make your lock smooth again, so you don't have to play it out over days.
How did you polish the lock bar and tang? What did you use?
I used a Dremel with a diamond tip on my artisan cutlery arroyo just cuz the factory kinda botched the blade where it locks up but the Dremel fixed it right up. Now if it was a $200 knife I would’ve sent it back
I would think maybe a touch of polishing. Not sanding/grinding but just polishing perhaps even with just some stropping compound would smooth some of them out without damaging anything.
When i first got my hinderer full track i need 2 hands to close it lock stick was so bad i just kept using it a few weeks later it was completely gone.
Love the background plz keep it!
Wish me luck. My spydiechef developed very concerning levels of lock after about 2 years of light use all of the sudden. So far all I know is that the outer most corner of the lock bar feels as sharp as the tip of the knife... probably ought to do something about that. And for what it is worth, I've been doing the sharpie thing since day1 just in case :(
1 hour later edit. I took some 12000 grit wet/dry sandpaper with some diamond compound residue left on it to the sharp edge until it felt sharpish but not dangerous, then re-sharpied everything, and now all is well :)
Recently had a bad experience with a Benchmade bailout. I can deal with lock stick but if I deployed it with anything other than minimum force the lock stick was actually almost difficult but if I deployed it with force it actually took two hands to pull axis bar back. I was very surprised and sent it back to DLT. I’ll probably end up getting another Benchmade but not for a little while. Also, since it was the one with aluminum scales the grinding between the bar and the scale made me cringe a little. Since this has turned into a mini review, I also want to say the clip was really stiff and hard to get it into the pocket. Overall I was pretty disappointed.
For those that don't know, a little oil on the lockface will actually make the lockstick way worse!!! Just keep working at it.
My worst case was my Bugout. Took almost a year.
TRM struggles to pump out tons of knives because it's a titanium liner on a blade stock of .09" interface. There will almost always be lockstick in this scenario, but people CONSTSNTLY complain and demand refunds because they have been waiting forever to get one and they expect it to be flawless. So TRM does a whole lot to minimize the lockstick as much as possible without compromising lock geometry. That's what delayed the Neutron 2. It holds up production a ton.
Loving the new background!
I have never received a knife with lockstick until my most expensive knive. Just got a Curtiss F3 with a one-off blade. It's now my second day with it and progressively gotten worse. Sometimes it's impossible to close with one hand.
You might actually have an issue there
I got my girlfriend and I matching We Banters, neither had lockstick when they arrived, and I gave her the one that I felt was slightly better.
After a little while the lock stick on her model showed itself. It's not terrible but you can feel it and hear it. I'm going to show her this video :)
This affected me. So pissed, I bought a custom knife, titanium framelock, with TERRIBLE lock stick. How the maker let it out flummoxed me. I decided to follow some advice from Shabazz, use anti-oxidant compound. Like magic, a little bit on the knife and the stick disappeared.
I just got a hinderer and it has nasty lockstick I just saw that Shabazz video where he used the anti oxidant . Its good to here it worked for you. I am going to gets some
My spyderco knives all have it. I just figure that eventually it will go away with a little wear on the faces of the materials.
My issue is I have to use wrist when I flip it out because the lock bar won’t lock if I don’t or I have to physically push if in to get it to lock but I’m gonna flip it a bit to see if it’s gonna get better
Edit: sorry forgot to mention what type of lock it’s a frame lock
My Emerson CQC-15 has a ridiculously hard lock stick. I can get around it with the Sharpee hack, but without it the bar is likely to lock too deep and require a ton of force to release. Honestly shameful at the price point. The CQC-15 was my first expensive knife, and the wave feature is boss, but I expect a lot better fit and finish for nearly $300.
I had a very annoying and even loud lock stick on a para 3 lightweight. It was so stiff that after a day of work my finger was sore. I took it apart, used my girlfriend's nail file on the blade tang and where it meets on the compression lock. Also loosed up the screw that holds the lock bar in place (probably would have solved the issue by itself). Like butter now!
what do we do if we need a tool to pry it open??
when i open my new knife the clip just goes even further then in this vid and i cant het it back to close it what do i do?
What about button locks my protech newport has a squeak?
My medford started out smooth, and now has some stick
I’ve never quite understood in which instances force would press on the back of the blade while you are gripping the handle. If it was an issue why do knives without a lock exist at all?
Minor lock stick does not bother me. To me, it’s making good contact. Weak contact is an issue. I’ve held ZT’s in store where I could push the lockbar across tang. For some reason; the locks I own that seem to have the worst lock geometry are frame locks. I’d take a good liner lock over a frame lock (Socom Elite etc). Yep, taking apart a franelock and trying to buff/grind down lock bar is foolish as is putting oil on tang, bad idea. IMO- most knives rarely need to be taken apart. Canned air and oil are all most knives need.
"mY fIxEd BlAdE dOeSn'T hAvE lOcK sTiCk" 🤣 (in MC funny voice)
I've had a zt0460ti for 5 months, exclusively carried for about 1.5 months. Lock stick is getting worse, and has been present the entire time. It's starting to get to the point of tearing my skin. What should I do here?
Send it to ZT. Use the warranty.
I've owned 3 paras and sold 2 because of lock stick. Im just dealing with the lock stick on my most recent para 3, not sure what's going on, it seems everyone doesn't have issues whereas everyone I touch has bad lock stick on the stop pin every time!
My code 4 had lock stick until I used it a lot. Now the lock is perfect.
I could barely close my Code 4 one handed when I got it. Major pain in the ass. After a couple of weeks it runs perfect!
I don't mind my triad locks being to hand closers I've tighten up the 4max and my code 4 is still pretty tight but I don't use her, my sr1 on the other hand which I use the most is tighten and its drop shut I could make the 4max drop shut too but I've almost taken off a tip of my finger so I keep her tight, either way never had a issue with a triad lock it's probably the best lockup there is and keeps me feeling confident when using it in the field at work I've taken down small trees with my 4max without fear of damaging me or the knife
I love Medford knives but when they have lock stick they have it bad. Need a screwdriver to get it to close
Aaaaannnd I just cut my finger trying to force wear a lock by opening it a little and then slinging it open over and over. I wasn't paying good attention and it came down on my finger hard. PM2 REC elusive I just got. Should have listened and left it alone, but I wasn't planning on it being a user. I wanted to fix it and put it in the safe. Super guilty of not being able to leave things well enough alone.
What about if it is so tight you have to use two hands to open it? Is that lock stick or does that have more to do with the pivot collar?
No. Lock stick can sometimes actually be that severe.
@@metal_complex I bought a Chaves Liberation 229 from a guy in the Discord and he said he never had a problem. I refuse to believe it. It's impossible to open with one hand. He just says he thought it had "crazy detent." I love the knife once it's open but getting it there... oof!
@@tedgorman12 wait.. is the problem opening it or disengaging the lock?
@@metal_complex it seems like both
@@tedgorman12 usually if you're having trouble opening a framelock, it's because you're holding it in a way that your fingers are putting pressure on the actual lockbar. Try keeping your fingers on the non locking part of the frame so that there is no extra pressure on the lock bar.
I’m glad you also feel the anxiety of a new expensive knife not being PERFECT. I bought my first PM2 and immediately disassembled it (because I’m experienced with knife maintenance) and when cleaned it and put it back together it was a lot smoother but the detent became about 25% weaker. It is annoying me so much, even though it takes a lot to swing it open with inertia, it still feels weaker than before I took it apart. I do not understand why taking it apart and putting it together made the detent weaker. SUPER ANNOYING. Even with that issue it’s still the best EDC knife I’ve ever held 😂
Some of my knives that have had the worst lock stick new (xm18, g10 griptilian, gayle bradley 2) are now the smoothest I own. knives that come with a little stick seem to keep sticking a little forever. as long as they aren't sticking so hard you can't get them apart its fine. some people just need to calm the *&^% down LOL
Did the Paysan end up breaking in?
Grey background is the way to go my man
My Boker Lancer S35vn copper scales has crazy lock stick lol
I can't close mine with one hand
Lock Backs are the WORST at this since the lock/spring is ALWAYS applying pressure on the blade. I have an ancient Gerber Ez-Out with about five thousand blade presentations that is butter smooth. I have one that is MUCH newer & is stiff as hell. EVERY knife needs "breaking in", they are machines, very simple machines, but their parts need to settle together & that takes time & repetition.
my blade is not releasing when i press the open button, anyone know how to fix this?
will we see another christmas with complex?
I have to push mine with a different knife because it sticks I can't get it back out
Exact problem with my strider 75
Same here
I have minor lock stick on my xm-18. None at all on my eklipse. If I keep the lock bar freshly oiled it goes away. That xm-18 is 3 months old and most carried knife.
Oil on the lockbar? Not where you want oil🤷🏽♂️
Paint the lock area on the blade with a sharpie
Franklin Johnson did that and pencil.
Franklin Johnson last for about 10 flips
Ya don't put oil on the lock face or lockbar.
How to say ten words in 21 minutes.
Bryan knows that some of us are stubborn. Some of us are patient. I once struggled with a pair of Ropers.
Except Brian is Slicey Dicey. I'm MC. My name is Richard 😉
@@metal_complex Doh! My bad Richard. Keep up the great videos no matter who you are!
🍻👊 no worries!
The worst lock stick I’ve experienced was on the Spydiechef. It was very off putting and drove me to get rid of it.
Me too 😂 what did you do? I disassembled mine and used Flitz on the blade tang to smooth and polish where the lock meets the tang. It is lock stick free and I now love it!
I honestly was so upset that I just sold it haha. I will probably pick up another one in the future and will definitely have to give that a try if the lock stick is that bad. My Arius has spoiled me haha
@@dman2886 that’s hysterical I read that as I’m flipping my Arius watching the UFC fights 😂 wish I had a picture of my face as I read the comment and looked at my Koenig in hand. In this case I would say skip rebuying a Spydiechef and get a Quietcarry Waypoint if you don’t own one!
@@1130jawz That's funny haha! I don't own one yet! I've heard a lot about them though.
I've never freaked out over lock stick after reading and watching a few videos years ago I just realized the knife has to wear in and my favorite brand Benchmade is notorious for lock stick because of the nature of the lock. But just relax everybody lol!
My hinderer sticks realy bad I can't fix the dam thing at all. It takes allot of force to push it over its denting my finger
A touch of mineral oil sorted my ZT right out.
My problem is that I can’t even get it to move at all so my pocket knife is stuck open
I don't agree with the "leave it alone" philosophy. If you do your research and do the proper work then you can "fix" or adjust the action on your knife. Again do your research and do the proper fix! A lot of "production knives" have a break in period but some definitely need corrections to have good action.
Spydercos in particular have weak detents that don't work in over time it stays weak. Even more specific models like the SpydieCheif have bad lock stick that wont necessarily improve.
There is a lot more to discuss on this topic and I think you have a lot of good points but maybe for more novice guys that aren't as concerned with "good action" and that's fine. But there is no one solution to bad action.
I disagree with this completely. Most knives will function better over time and they don't need any tinkering. More often than not, people just end up making the issue worse. Like I said in the video, I've applied the whole "leave it alone" thing to hundreds of knives in my collection. Only one actually ended up having an issue. Think whatever you want, that's fine. But I'm probably not going to revisit this topic.
@@metal_complex That's ok we can completely disagree I'm ok with that hopefully you are too. I agree a lot of actions will wear in but that is not universally true. I don't presume to know more than you and your experiences are valid but don't prove anything any more than my experiences do. For the vast majority of users your advice is valid but you can't apply that to every knife or every user of course IMO.
I've never claimed anything I say applies to everyone/everything. All I've ever said is "most of the time" or "in most cases" or "vast majority". This is kind of a pointless discussion.
THAT'S WHY YOU DON'T GET A FRAMELOCK
DuUrRrRrR!!!!
@@metal_complex stop making fun of me, you'll give me a complex!
Lock stick on a brand new knife is no big deal since surfaces are fresh. Run it through 50-100 cycles, 99% of lock sticks will disappear by then. If it still persist use a little abrasive compound between lock surface and scrub it loose.
I've done it way more than that and its got worse
My SpydieChef is plagued with lock stick that has been unchanged for over a year 😔 Bums me out so much as I am constantly reminded and frustrated by it 🤬
That's why I clicked this video mine is not great either. The easiest quick fix is coloring the blade lock surface with a sharpie. I do that to mine and it fixes it for a while.
@@SRVandDtrouble thank you buddy! I’ll def give it a shot 😎
@@firemedic5170 No problem. I have a different opinion than MC but you can mess up your lock up if you over polish or remove materials from the lock surfaces. By opening and closing you are lapping the surfaces with each other to create a better surface to surface contact. Unfortunately Spyderco ships way to many like ours like this especially for the price point. But as they say there is more than one way to skin a cat horrible saying but true. Good luck.
@@SRVandDtrouble agreed! It’s funny (not haha funny lol) but I’ve slowly started to sell off some of my most coveted knives as I’ve become way too much of a perfectionist and I’m finding the most ridiculous flaws that I never imagined a human could find. Of course I’m not flipping my collection, I just feel that I’m finding flaws that are chipping away at the reward and gratification of collecting. My CRK, Demko, and Koenig knives have changed my perception of “perfection.” I’m no brand fanboy of any brand by any means, I just know that off center blades, blade play, lock rock, and sticky locks can absolutely be done better if one was so inclined 😊
@@firemedic5170 I feel your pain my dude. I used cheap crummy knives for years because I never really spent money on myself. But this year I have spent more money than I ever thought I would on knives. I have the same issue where I'm wanting to trade my Benchmade and Spydercos in for CRK and Hinderers but haven't made the leap. I know there is diminishing returns at a certain price point but you are right tastes change and expectations get more refined.
that xm24 has quite the pocket pecker
Dam.....i dumped a whole bunch of lube on the liner lock where it contacts🤣🤣
Heres the crazy part....i wiped it allll off with q tips and it got better when the lubr was wiped off😂 what kind of fkcry is going on haha
Use white stick deodarent to fix lockstick pretty much permenent
I have a bastion Braza Mini Bro. Tiny knife.all titanium. No insert no over travel stop. The lockstick was so bad once the lock moved it unstuck and went to far. Well you know what happens then. You have a useless knife with no lock untill you fix or replace it. So the deodarent trick is necessary for that. Very necessary
Omfg can anyone tell me what to do if your knife is not locking OPEN solidly?! This is a much bigger problem that a bit of friction opening it, this can render it useless!
Please anyone, I’m an inner city outreach worker. My friends use cattle prods.
I use budotaijjutsu BUT I don’t bring a fist to a knife fight or 5 on 1. Anyways it’s a usmc kukri. Great for the price but I noticed it doesn’t lock open solid- force could push it closed on my fingers. So I can use t until I fix this an ALL THE VIDEOS ARE ON WAH IT WONT OPEN PERFECTLY
Send back. Good God man. It's defective.
Read More below to learn this secret to solving the issue of lock stick for good.
Buy a fixed blade.😉😂
You didn't watch the whole upload did u? Lol
Oh I did,just not before I crafted my mildly clever smartass comment lol 😉
so basically it cant be fixed?!
First and awesome vid love the knifes
Mine squeaks instead of sticking
Watch Nick shabizz’s video he has a good fix.
Well now I know not to lubricate the lock. Thank you
Thanks for the up-front warning about being long winded cause otherwise I would have given up. You're probably not a lib so you may not have seen Rachel Maddow but she's The QUEEN of not getting to the point but you're not nearly as bad as her. Glad you solved my issue cause just paid fifty bucks for a Praxis and was starting to panic when it wouldn't close!
People with these complexes about their guns would be more worrying
I disagree. This is enthusiast behavior. Very docile.
Buddy I don’t mind that you’re long winded except you’re almost assuming that people are idk, stupid? Nothing wrong with a little bit of lock stick, but when someone is rubbing their thumb raw, something needs to give. So please don’t tell people just to “not do anything”.
Oh I didn't mean to imply people were stupid. Probably my fault on the wording. I get a TON of comments and questions on Instagram about this. Many times, people will send me videos of their lock stick asking "is this a problem?". The vast majority of the time, it's very minor. I know periodically someone will have an actual issue that requires them to send the knife back, but my honest goal here was just to save a lot of people time and money, and reduce their anxiety 👍
exactly why i dont bother with liner/frame locks. they are junk.
Any lock can experience lock stick. Just like I said in this upload. I dont see more or less in any specific lock.
@@metal_complex never had a problem with other locks sticking. Liner/ frame locks are a flawed platform.
I've handled / used 500+ knives. Most of them were liner / framelocls. Never had any major issues and the few that had issues with stick ended up smooth over a short period of time. Sorry dude, but your comment is like throwing a golf ball at a freight train. It's not gonna make any real difference.
@@metal_complex I've had liner locks from reputable companies wear out within a week and either start slipping or getting the liner lock stuck between the blade tang and opposite liner, requiring a screwdriver to pry closed. I'm not hard on my knives either. I'm glad you have good luck with liner/ frame locks, but I will never buy one again. Too many problems compared to other lock types.
🥱😴 move on
Nano lube, problem solved.
Long winded?!! Do ya think?!!
Ya. Welcome to my channel
Sooooo many ads!
We don't control that anymore. That's on CZcams. Nothing we can do
Not helpfull at all! If it does take a tool what do you do?!?
What a complete waste of a video