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Does Lock Up Percentage Matter on a Folding Knife? - What Is "Early" and "Late" Lock Up?
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- čas přidán 2. 10. 2020
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Watched this from start to finish even though I am a liner lock guy. Always preferred liner locks...scale symmetry and no thought necessary on grip or hand placement when opening or closing my knife being the primary reasons.
A bit of a caveat to those brands not having lockup issues are the early-ish Striders with the rounded lock faces. They all need/needed to be sent in to have the lock refaced to a flat surface because oh boy the lock rock that those things developed. I would hope they’ve all been fixed by now, but who knows.
Between 20% and 80%, and I’m good.
Another good vid. I have two CR Mnandis, one came with ~90% lockup. One came with very early lockup, I want to say under ten percent.. I could disengage the lock by hitting the top of the blade. Swapped the blades and bushings on them and they are both at ~40%. Now I can sleep at night.
The alignment on my Kershaw Payout was/is perfect, BUT, the release was sticking BAD. After watching your and a couple other videos, I took a light file to the lock, and tried the same on the tang. I took maybe twelve passes on the lock bar, but couldn’t make a scratch on the tang. Then I realized, DOH, that the knife steel is harder than my file. Today I tried something different. I took my axe stone to the tang et voila! My lock bar release is waaay, better and I didn’t do too much, so I don’t have any rocking at lockup. Thanks for the help.
My brand new hinderer is maybe 3/32 away from 50 percent. It has slight lock stick but I’m ok with it because I know it’s more solid.
The voice at 17:48 made me think of "THEY TOOK OUR JERBS!" from south park.
I like early than late. 20-80% with a little lock stick is ok. Great review as always. Thank you MC!👏👏👊👊
I run the ball bearing lock from Spyderco , in my opinion a far superior lock design that is stronger & once broke in has better action.
This video was needed very much to the newer people in the hobby. Inform and calm the masses lol. Thank you.
The whole video was just spitting facts one after another, especially when you were talking about finite lifespan of a knife as if someone's safe queen was going to see the light of day, let alone cut anything more than paper.
Maybe a thousand years from now, some archaeologist will dig up that Chris Reeve Sebenza still soaked in oil, wrapped in three layers of plastic and sealed in a glass jar (that's also filled with oil) and marvel at the depths someone will go not to use the tool they paid good money for.
Back in the day, as in 2008-2011ish, early lockup was celebrated because Ti frame locks would wear really fast. Especially because “fidgeting” type knives were just becoming popular. Ah the days.
I had a sprint run Para 3 with 75% lock up and developed a vertical blade play after a month. I sold it instead of adding more tension on the liner lock to eliminate the blade play.
I had a direware that had a terrible lock up percentage and it could be lightly tapped closed when it was open.
It was very disappointing.
I like an early lock up as long as it's not on the very edge. It gives the bar room for movement over time and use.
My Buck Kingsman locks up even later than the title picture. I like the knife and wonder if it could be fixed.
I’m debating on returning my Petrified Fish Vicor ( tan micarta/ satin blade). Dam lock up is only 20% or less!🤦🏾♂️
I have a question
What if the knife has a thick liner lock and it's 40-50% right out of the gate after a good session with it. Doesn't seem to me moving anymore, the blade has no wobble, but the thick liner was only 20-30% at the first look, now after the session it's 40-50% but nice and snugg. The first time it was difficult to close (Press the button) but now it's easier to close (Not super easy just enough that I don't have to destroy my thumb😅)
If it's a thick liner lock is this ok?
Any ideas on how to stop lock stick (rather than mask it with pencil etc)?
I’ve got a NM SnG that has crazy lock stick......needs two thumbs to unlock if you flip it open, sometimes. Never pushed the lock further into engagement. Sending back in is awkward (international).
Can't wait for the WE Gava review. Got one coming in on Tuesday
14:10 " A little bit of stick makes me fee good about it " Only a man that knows what he is talking about can say that out loud 😂 Loving the content!
Id say percentage doesn’t matter unless it’s like at 100 and has lock rock or something. What matters is the lock geometry, as long as the geometry is good it don’t matter if it’s 10% or 90%
Love that Les George. I recently picked up the LG Protech SBR and love the ergos
I think the process of hardening the lock face is carburization iirc. At least on the older Sebenzas which are kind the prototypical ti frame lock without an insert.
refuse to believe the early lockup on civivis is safe. I love their designs, but their lockups give me the creeps. I want at least 50% engagement. QSP does it better. I really wish civivi would change that .
My xm 24 is at 40% like yours and it's a real old one, with teflon and the internal stop pin in the older place so don't worry.
My Real Steel H6 was exactly even! The lock bar and the tang of the blade was even! After one and a half year the Lockbar went a small bit more. But always full contact! That makes the Real Steel H6 the strongest Liner lock I have ever handeld and used! Where the Ontario Rat 1 and others fails, the Real Steel H6 ask for more! Greetings from Austria .
JDavis882 was a proponent of early lock-up. He thought that there was a correlation between early lock-up and lock life. There is no correlation between early/late lock-up and lock life. A CRK is a perfect example of this. Proper lock geometry is more important than where the lockbar sits. A properly ground lock will not wear in the user's lifetime. I've never had a properly ground lock wear out. I have had liner and framelocks for 20+ years. Had a Shirogorov F95 with bad lock-stick (lock could be squeezed to the other side). Was bought at Recon1. Had to use a tool to release it. Returned for refund. Now they are reselling it. Telling me there is nothing wrong with the knife. WTF?
Thank you! I’ve been pretty confused about this until now.
Had a strider and medford that i could push the back of the blade a few times and the lock would disengage. Couldnt do that with my hinderer or crk but it made me lose my trust in them.
I have owned many medford and should have stopped when I got cut from the lock slipping. I had 3 that slipped off as you say. So like 3 out of ten.
I've owned tons of ZTs and Medfords and I've honestly never had an issue. It's probably pretty isolated. People who have issues will move on to a different lock, and people who don't will continue happily using the knives they've been using.
Spine whack it …. Does it stay locked up? …. You’re good
I really learned a lot in this video thanks
Definetly the most interestng video i´ve watched the last months. Thank you for easing the stress for this important issue ;-) Greets from Munich/Germany
Great subject and Video. Alot of us dont really understand it.
do you have any ideas for a strong titanium handle folder with any lock besides linerlock for between 175$ and 300$.
I'd rather late than early and I like a slight stick so prefer titanium on steel.
Agree with you on both.
what about a slim liner lock like a kizer gemini that starts at 60% new?
Thanks for all the great vids!
😱😱oh no shouldn't have watched this, now I'm paranoid 😳 😂😂nicely explained brother. You almost got me tho, looking at my hinderer xm 18 3.5 spearpoint flipper and seeing it at 45% but I actually use mine everyday at work lol😂hava awsome and safe weekend and always look forward to your content provided 👊🙏🤜💯🤛🍻✌
Brand new spydiechef locking up at 90%, no play. The titanium scale is thinner than the blade and so the bar is buried in there. The LC200N seems to be pretty soft as the titanium has polished the interface and rounded out the edge in about 1 week of use / fidget. Still no blade play. Still not sure how to feel about it.
The titanium lock face is definitely softer than the steel tang of the blade. It should be ok. Some people report lock stick but thats about it.
I take it that there's no solution once that far distant day comes where "late" lock up goes all the way over and gives blade play, yes?
ThanQ for filming & God bless ~ SHARED
Damn that Hinderer looks so beefy in a good way
I have a brand new large sebenza 21 with 85% lockup. Im not too happy with that far lockbar. On a 700$ knife i would prefer it around 50-60%
Thats normal on a Sebenza 21. They're all like that. It won't move from that spot over the next 10-20 years.
@@metal_complex well my other 2 sebenzas 21 are at about 50% which im happier with
None of them will move from their current location.
Medfords are always early, work fine.
My new para3 is at like dead on 50% lockup
If you really need to use your folding knives for anything other than fidgeting and opening envelopes, then of course late lock up is better than early lock up.
The geometry of all of those in the thubnail look flat af. Even took the time to tilt my phone and and look down em like runways... Isn't the grind supposed to be slightly concave? To match the bend radius (whatever it's actually called) of the lock?
It is. You just can't really see it in the video. Its very slight. The lock geometry for Hindeter, Les George, etc is always spot on and completely solid.
Whoa… I almost ruined a knife thinking the lock wasn’t engaging enough. I was going to mess with what your telling us not too. Good learning experience - I had no idea they will wear in naturally.
How? By pushing the lockbar in? Nahhh you wouldn't ruin your frame lock knife that easily if you didn't do it ALL THE TIME. MC was stressing the issue to make his point but these modern folders are NOT made of cheese cakes😅 you're fine as long as it's only finger force and no tools were involved😂
ty for the vid, good job!!!!
For whatever reason Spydiechefs have pretty late lockup
I have 3 of them. All have late lockup, all have stick. Take that for what it’s worth
yep, mine have also late lockup but solid as a rock
The biggest cause of lock stick is having oil on the lock face
No it isn't. It's usually rough spots forming debris as it smooths out.
I thought the title said lock preference
Well, Bruce Willis you're wrong
whats your opinion on aluminum lock bars
What knife has an aluminum lock bar?
@@metal_complex lionsteel Sr1 and that case knife made by southern grind.
They are capped with steel but they don't feel very springy.
Oh well ya that has a steel cap, so it's fine. I thought you meant an all aluminum lock
Hey man, is vertical jiggle acceptable?
No. Thats definitely not good
I would cringe so hard if i witnessed someone pushing as hard as they can on a lock bar.
I've seen it happen so many times unfortunately.
Metal Complex same (dad)
Medfords are super early
Most newer models hover around 25%
Metal Complex have you had a Medford without lock stick? Ive handled 4 and they all had that same problem.
Only one of 10 Medford I've handled have had lock stick.
Poor lock face geometry? COkershawUGH
To be fair, those were the super-cheap Christmas package deals. The Kershaws behind the glass are still okish I guess.
Talk about a video that should have been only 6 mins...
Talk about a comment that won't change anything...
Axis lock and good to go!
Its great other than the omega springs.
@@metal_complex I'm over liner/frame locks. I feel to many rely on them. Stifles innovation IMHO.
Ironically, Rick Hinderer is one of the most innovative knife makers around and his main platform is a framelock.
@@metal_complex I just feel like there's too many flippers and frame locks.
There definitely are. But that's because they're popular.
Please for the love of god center your microphone
My mic is my phone and I move around. Sorry.
Metal Complex dude I love the content I say it every time I comment about this, but as a headphone user you’re always in the left headphone and it gets disorienting
Emerson worse locks and build quality I’ve ever seen… terrible terrible and not cheap… I’ve been collecting for 50 years so might know what I’m talking about…