Yamaha FZ1 - Adjusting the Valves Part 1
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- čas přidán 8. 07. 2024
- Welcome back!
Sorry about the audio. i don't know where the horrible 60hrz hum is coming from.
The engine is back together and its on to the dark art of shimming the valves. I hope you enjoy. In this video I start by measuring the clearance and checking the shim size. To be continued in Part 2
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Need more videos like this
I'm 3 years too late, but thank you for this video. Thanks for showing all the steps and not editing out the important parts like most.
No worries!
Awesome set of vids friend, a great help, well done fella
Thanks !
This is amazing thank you for posting as i am in the process of rebuilding my fz1 and have done most of the work but sending my head to be skimmed and will check the valves once returned obviously! Thanks again
No problem, i will have the next part up Monday, Just finished filming the rest over the weekend.
@@DeWoodysShop amazing!! I will be making my video on the fz1 soon too so you might enjoy watching it seen as you helped me :)
@@TheDonInLondon Subscribed!
@@DeWoodysShop i did too :)
outstanding flipping video, THANK you
Glad you liked it!
Excelent
Great video, you're obviously a wrench of some skill no doubt. Got me questioning whether to buy a used FZ1 though lmao; Thanks for posting!
Its a great bike, this one was particularly abused by the previous owners. It's been problem free since it was finished.
Very helpful. I have an 02 with about 50k miles so I'm past due 🙃
Thank you very much!
Yeah, its probably about time for a check. Very impressive it made it that far. But i think in generally people dont rev out the FZ1s as much as the R1 and they are detuned some also.
I rarely have it past 9k. I have to rebuild the water pump so I figured might as well do the valves as well. Videos like yours really help out. 👍
I am putting a motor together on a 2007 Wave Runner. I bought a used head, with the cams removed and the shims gone. I have to start from scratch. The motors are very similar.
Very true. Most of the yamaha engines are really pretty similar going back to the 98 R1. Which is one thing i love about yamaha.
Just a tip for you bros out there. When checking cylinder 1 you can go ahead and check cylinder 4 as both of them would be on the compression stroke. Same goes for cylinder 2 and 3
Well on a traditional flat plane inline 4 that is not exactly true. While it is true both cylinders will be at TDC they are not not both on the compression stroke. If cylinder 1 is on the compression stroke cylinder 4 will be on the exhaust stroke, i.e. valves will be opening and closing. Clearances should only be checked when the came is on the specified spot on the base circle or 360 degrees after cylinder one.
You adjust it with TDC on compression stroke right? I think you said on exhaust stroke and idk if I'm missing something.
You are correct, i miss spoke. Video updated. Only check on TDC on the compression stroke.
at how many miles does this need to be done?
Great video series! What are some of the symptoms you will get when this needs to be done? Thanks!
Usually they start to get hard to start when its warm. because a valve is staying slightly open.
@@DeWoodysShop With mine, it revs slowly no matter how much gas I give it. Can that be related do you think?
@@nimson50 it's probably the carbs. That could cause it but it's unlikely it would still start easy if it's that bad it revs slowly
currently making a RX1 snow machine engine from a few doner engines and this is probly the closest I got to finding what's going on cuz I don't live near any Yam dealership for a pro perspective..did a whole valve job and they're sitting nice and tight. I'm a very visual learner and would be awesome to see a step by step on how to set the timing to specs cuz what I'm reading from the manual, it ain't cuttin it. I do appreciate your post tho, let's me know I did something right, but I'd be a mfer if I had to pull the head back off again cuz my timing is off and need to buy another crush gasket. long live yamaha 👊
Yeah the head should be basically the same, and you should not need to put the head to reset the timing on it?
@@DeWoodysShop yeah like for when the timing is off it might damage the pistons and bend the valves when I try and start it. super new to this stuff and finding stuff out the hard way you know 😄
@@vinceschaeffer Yes, you only need to re-time the cams no need to take the head off, you just set piston one to tdc by the mark on the crank trigger then put the cams in at the correct spot. but thas above the head.
According to fz1 manual, exhaust valve clearance should be 0.20mm to 0.25mm. How did u come up with 0.30mm?
It shows .21-.30mm in the manual on 3-8 on the valve adjustment table. You are right though it also shows .21-.25mm on page 3-5 on the smaller table. I was unsure also at first which to go with so i check my 98-01 r1 manual for reference, since both engines are very simular and it has .21-.30 listed in both spaces. In this case i decided to go with the larger so i will not have to adust them as soon. They are likely to close up a little once it starts the first time anyway, and worse case is .05mm less valve lift and a little more valve noise.
Where could I find the valve adjustment specs for the second gen 09? Would this be the same process?
Its basically the same, i think the specs are just a little tighter on those. also the timing marks are likely to be a little different. But overall the process is the same. You should be able to find a factory service manual that has those specs in it.
My exhaust side calls for 0.21 to 0.30 and all wer very tight. Would 0.27 to 0.28 be a good clearance to shoot for?
Yes, i think that would be a good target, usually its more about the shims you have so i target the upper half.
Can you tell me which feeler gages you got? I'm trying to do a 2001 r1.
Any of the tapered like these work fine www.amazon.com/Tusk-Tapered-Feeler-Gauge-Set/dp/B01N9T5M2L
Okay I appreciate it. It definitely looks like tapered are the best route on this bike.
@@shanemyers4142 yes, only way to get the center ones really.
Just wondering, small gap means the valve adjustment was needed or bigger gap means it was needed?
Too small of gap or too large both could mean that. They need to be in the correct range
@@DeWoodysShop ahh I think I get it. I was thinking there’s a maximum and minimum. I just wanted to get to or close to the minimum to allow for the most wear before doing another valve adjustment.
hello.this is new model fz1 or old model...thanks
It is a 2004. The process is about the same on any shim and bucket engine though especially Yamaha. Clearances might be a little different is the only main difference.
@@DeWoodysShop thank you
You don't have to remove the engine do you?
No, normally you would not. But its much easier to film and it was already out.
Gyy