How To Permanently Close the Recirculate Door on Your T1N Sprinter (2002-2006)
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- čas přidán 8. 05. 2021
- In this episode of Tips, Tricks and Tweaks, Mike shows you his super simple mod for helping keep the van cooler during the summer. On every Sprinter van since the beginning of time, the recirculate flap only seems to stay closed for 15 (if you're lucky) minutes, sometimes even less!
Many people choose to mechanically wire the door shut through various methods, but I find this method works better due to it being cleaner, neater, and giving you control over this from a dash switch if you really want! Or, just always on!
Though this mod is being shown on a 2004 Sprinter, the method should work similarly for newer vans!
PS: If you want fresh air, open the windows.
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Used your idea successfully on my 2003 Sprinter today. Works like a charm! Thank you so much for posting your video!!
Love the Florida Van Man channel!!
Videos getting better each time. Good to see!
That one was excellent, although I'd like to see the other end of the system ie the under-seat hookup location for "engine-on power".
I believe the EK1 block deserves its own video where I can pull the seat off and better point things out under there. -Mike
I was wondering what had happened to you guys, great to see you uploading again
Busy bees on the Purple Sprinter!!! Can't wait to share some progress on the channel. -Mike
@@FloridaVanMan Hey buddy great to hear from you, I am two panels away from having the first phase of my campervan done, it's been some journey, I have been working on it for over 14 months, look forward to watching your uploads, send my regards to Bill, Anna and all at FVM
Awesome man. Great video.
Thank you so much!!!! -Mike
Nice one. Hitting the recirc every 15 mins has become a subconscious action at this point but this is a better approach. I use the same engine run relay under the seat to power the inverter that charges my house battery. I think I'll put a switch in though because once in a while I do like a bit of fresh air.
Nice thanks🤙
I think I'd want to wire a standard Sprinter on/off rocker switch to one of the empty slots in the switch console, that way at night or cooler days you can turn it off to allow fresh air to circulate & get rid of stale air in the cabin on long trips where if you turn the AC off it gets stuffy. I live in Texas & it get very hot also in the summer, I don't like the way it opens to let outside air in to quickly ...
That's exactly why I wired it into my van the way I did, it's currently on while the van is running but it would be trivial for me to add a switch. Unfortunately, there's no "standard Sprinter on/off rocker blank" available for T1Ns. NCV3 has a nice drop in switch available, but T1N requires modifying the already flimsy dash blanks. To be fair though, I haven't had to want to turn this off since installing.
So a fog light rocker isn't on/off @@FloridaVanMan ? It's a spring loaded momentary switch that pulls a relay on I suppose ...
Crazy question when turning the air selection like floor, vent, defrost . Do you push in or just turn.
They stick, and get hard!!! Don't force, it may break the control. There are bicycle cables and butterfly valves behind the controller that need lube.
The recirculate door is broken and wired shut from the previous owner. I'm having trouble finding a replacement, dunno the part #. Can you steer me in the right direction ? Is it even worth fixing at this point? cheers and love from the west coast
You can always get fresh air through a window. The recirculate door opens itself every 20 minutes so lots of folks wire them shut. There is no disadvantage to leaving it wired shut if you have reinvents over the side windows.
Have just noticed this same thing on my 2013 2500 that i recently got. Was wondering why. Also heard from previous owner of a quirk with my sprinter that when the fan is turned up to 4 on AC the fuse will blow... bizarre, wondering if that is common too?
that's a draggy fan. Replace the fan motor.
I agree with John. Sounds like a new motor is needed.
@@utahjohn5480 thanks, that sounds likely
@@FloridaVanMan thanks, that will go on the list!
You guys mentioned starting a group with an annual membership fee. If you decide to do that, let me know. I’ll gladly join.
You guys need to be reimbursed for the money you put out in parts and lost wages you’d be earning if you weren’t making free videos to help us.
You might could market a DVD on your site containing your current videos that fans could buy so they’ve have a reference DVD for when they are offline. You could also make it a purchasable ISO downloadable image as well.
Thank you for the suggestions and support. We are still trying to figure out what benefits we can offer paid subscribers. Until we figure that out, we are just begging for donations. Thank you all...
You could offer support for NV3’s. Many of us have them, but if you mention them, the T1N guys will punk you. I’ve explored a few different groups and don’t find any that do a proper job with working on NV3’s. They just show off their builds. Sooner or later we’re all going to be driving NV3’s. It would be a good market to corner with deletes and such.
@@michaelmann5732 NCV3's are just not for me. Mike liked some things about the one he had but I don't think he will ever get another. These T1N's will be around as long as I will, like the old VW classic vans (type 2). Those drivers did not all shift to the newer, square VW Westfalia. I know I wouldn't have.
@@FloridaVanMan you probably are right. I just knew there was a vacuum of support on them and you guys are good. I just figured the laws of average will eventually catch up with TN1’s through accidents. Unattended rust has claimed some. Anyway, it was just an idea hopefully someone will pick up and run with. Hope you guys are doing good and you have a good vacation.
@@michaelmann5732 I might consider getting another NCV3, if I had a spare T1N engine to swap into it 🤣
Or another smoking deal on a clean shorty NCV3... if I could import a 128" wheelbase NCV3 with a 4 cylinder/manual that would be fun
-Mike
I just replaced my resistor for blower fan thinking that’s why the AC doesn’t blow hard. It blows well out of the vent on dash, but not out of the driver and passenger vents. Anyone have some suggestions please?
The center knob pushes and pulls on two bicycle cables, When these kink at the connection the knob turns but does less. What it doesn't do depends on which cable bent over. Usually the white one in my experience and nothing we can do will fix it for long. Replace the cable and lube the things they push-pull in the dash.
@@FloridaVanMan thank you sir!! I know you’re busy
So is this why the engine blows hot air into the cabin when it's 100° + out?
One reason. The other reason could be poor sealing from the cabin air filter, missing insulation, etc. etc.
my 92 300d has the 15 minute timer too
Must be a German/cold weather designed system thing!
@@FloridaVanManI think all Mercedes are like that. They're concerned about carbon dioxide levels because it affects your cognitive abilities. They can get extremely high inside a cabin in Studies have shown that super high CO2 levels have effects similar to mild drunk driving
I wonder how long it will hold a vacuum before opening again? 🤔
For as long as the solenoid has power. Unless you have a vacuum leak. No vacuum leaks on my van so it holds forever.
@@FloridaVanMan I was assuming all vacuums leak 😅 ... I probably should fix mine!
@@kieron8250 We're lucky to have the 647 which is mostly all electronically actuated, except for a few notable exceptions like the recirculate door.
Is there any side effects If keeping flap door closed all times?
There may be concern of the blower resistor aging prematurely if the recirculate is left on with cabin heat blasting. But the resistor is an $11 part and our video for it is titled "The easiest repair...". No tools are needed to replace the resistor.
I have noticed increased engine LOD% at idle according to the NautaBox. With everything off, my van idled at 18-19% LOD before and now with AC on and recirc closed it idles at 39-40% LOD. From now on, I'll be putting a switch in for it with its power source still being engine on power.
@@FloridaVanMan how about blocking half the recirc vent with a piece of tin so you get some recirc
and the brown vacum pump hose? ...not used?
Correct. The vacuum line is no longer useful when the recirculation door is tied shut. We can't allow a big leak in the vacuum system, so leave the hose connected.
@@FloridaVanMan interesting... but I'm a geek... now i feel the need to print some stuff in 3D and add a motor on this hahaha :D thanks!
btw... I'm trying to guess the original coolant fluid pipes as my sprinter seems to be missing a few things (like a the T joint)... do you have a video on that?