Tips and Tricks to using Harbor Freight Chainsaw Sharpener
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- čas přidán 1. 08. 2024
- How to get great results from this inexpensive chainsaw sharpener
Chainsaw Sharpener: amzn.to/3xXctsh
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Great job on the video ! The close ups really answer the questions about what's happening during the sharpening.
I'm glad it was helpful. Thanks for the comment and thank you for watching!
Great practical video.
Very nice extreme close up of that one tooth being ground.
Just brought home one of these $30 sharpeners and this video will help get me started. Thanks!
I bet you will love it. It saved me a lot of money and time wasted taking chains to be sharpened. Thanks for the comment!
Very clear guide, especially the close up shows exactly what part to grind. Thanks.
I'm glad you liked it. Thanks for watching!
This is great, thanks so much! Way better than the official tutorial video, especially with the 3:50 close up.
+Brooks Crawford You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Thanks! I was totally lost with this sharper till I saw your video. Excellent instructional!
Your welcome. I've been using mine for years. Watch my video about the chainsaw depth gauge. I have been sharpening chains for over 40 years and did not know about filing the depth gauge, if you do this extra step it will cut like new especially helpful if it has been sharpened a few times. Thanks for watching!
This is a first class lesson, both well narrated and photographed.
Thank you for taking the time to comment and for watching my video!
Best video until now, at least what I have seen. To fix the chain properly is essential for good results ,and not every sharpener does do so!
Thanks!
Add me to the group of people who owned one of these but had never used it. After watching a few videos I mounted mine and sharpened a chain this AM. Fired up the saw and cut up half a tree which was on the ground. Thanks for the video!
Your welcome!! After your sharpen them a few times you will find that they don't cut like new anymore. The problem is that you need to file the depth gauges on the chain. I didn't know about this until a couple of years ago and it make a huge difference. czcams.com/video/BQZHEqNvPCk/video.html Thanks for letting me know it was helpful!
Thanks, I bought one today and mounted it like you, works great.
Awesome. Glad you liked the video!
Thanks great video!
Great review just bought a newer version great tip on mounting on 2/4 that's what I did I paid 22 bucks for it already sharpened 2 blades should have bought one years ago
Thank's for the good tips
Your welcome, I'm glad it was a help to you!
Great video, Thanks !!!
Thanks for making this video very HELPFUL 👍🏼👍🏼
You're welcome. Thanks for letting me know!
Thank you for the video. Very informative and now has me wanting to price sharpener!
Your welcome, thanks for watching!
Great video! I am buying one tonight and this will save me so much time learning to use it!
Glad it was helpful!
Really I just watched three videos and none of them showed me exactly what I was doing when I watched yours what made the difference was you zoomed in on the tooth before your sharpened it and as you sharpened it and the results now I understand how to sharpen the chain everyone else was just too lazy not to zoom in on the tooth I want to say thank you very much
You are very welcome. Thank you for letting me know you liked it!
thanks for the helpful tutorial of this sharpener.
Your welcome, thanks for watching!
Thanks for the great video it was very helpful!
You're welcome, thank you for letting me know it was helpful!
Very helpful video. Will buy one and test that out today. Thanks.
You're welcome!!
Great video
I bought one a few weeks back for @29.99 plus tax. Great tool for the homeowner! Tip: if you have been sharpening your chains using a round file, then your chain teeth are probably uneven length so it may take a few sharpenings to get them all the same size. Once you do the chain will cut nice and straight.
Thanks!
Thank you. Other videos I've seen don't mention adjusting the rakers (guides) but you do. I need to look at your video on that to complete the picture.
You're welcome! Adjusting the rakers is a game changer, it makes them cut like new.
Love the close ups. And yes I will go to the next video.
Thanks I'm glad you liked it!
Thank you for your video. I'm a little late to the show, but it is still very helpful.
You're welcome, thanks for letting me know it was helpful!
My grandson got into my chainsaw stuff and now my round file is shot and no store close to me has any 7/32 files in stock and I needed to cut wood. I'd forgotten that my brother in law had given me one of these years ago. I'd forgotten how to use the darn thing,but your video has helped greatly. Thank you.
That's great, thanks for letting me know!
great video, great tips
Thanks!
very good video, thanks.
Well done. Thanks
Your welcome. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for showing this how to.
You are so welcome!
thanks a lot for helping me.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
I know this is old but I wanted to thank you. I am getting one but couldn’t figure out where to put it. Your idea of mounting on a 2x4 and then placing in vise,which I have is simple but great I probably would have never thought of that, thanks
You're welcome. I hope it works out well for you, the one I have has saved me a lot of money over the years. You might want to watch my video on using a chainsaw depth gauge. I had never heard of one but noticed after sharpening a chain multiple times it would not cut as well as it used to. You have to lower the gauge in front of the tooth with a file to keep it cutting large chips. I only do it about every 3rd sharpening. Check it out it will make your home sharpened blades cut like new. Good luck with your new grinder!
I think that depth gauge video is linked at the end of this video.
I have the same unit, it works great 👍
Thanks for watching my video and commenting!
Excellent video. 👍👍
Thanks!
excellent vid thanx
Your welcome. Thanks for watching!
Good video!I bought one of these 10 years ago for under $20.00 it does a great job for it's size and price, I have saved enough to pay for it several times, it still runs but the switch is going.I just take a piece of whit chalk and mark the chain when I start so I know when it has made a complete pass.
That's a good idea. Thanks for watching!
When i was a kid i asked a old timer haw he knows where he started. He told me if you can't tell it didnt need done.
Please post the link to your other vid on the chainsaw guide you did. Excellent video. I love the detail that you put in your video's
Here you go. czcams.com/video/BQZHEqNvPCk/video.html
Ours began getting loose in the plastic making the whole head wiggle. We disassembled it and bought brass bushings and drilled the plastic just smaller than the bushing. Pressed them in with a “C” clamp. Put it all back together and it’s better than new! For a cheap tool it’s pretty good!
I've sharpened a lot of chains with it. Thanks for sharing how you fixed yours!
Very good how to tutorial
Glad you liked it!
Thank you! 😉👍
Welcome!
There's another video on my utube, using the "Harbor Freight" sharpener and they just cram the saw blade on the chain....well I'm so glad to see someone that (you) that realizes that the touch,touch,touch is the right way,the other person seems ? does not know that heat will kill the temper in that tooth of the chain, Great video, no I don't own one just can't find the money, but I would have one if I could....thanks...Johnny b.
Thanks for taking the time to tell me, I appreciate your kind words.
very helpful video.
+jason hintze Thank you for watching!
I like the 2x4 idea I also have to many things on my work bench.
Thanks, it works great for me.
Thank you
You're welcome!
Hey Thanks Alot.Ive Been Buying New Chains And was Afraid That I Would Mess Up The One That I Have,It Dont Look That Bad.!!!!
Give it a try, you will save a lot of money. Also, you can have a chain that cuts like new in about 10 minutes. Be sure and watch my video on using the filing depth gauge. I didn't know about this additional step until very recently and it makes a big difference in the performance of the chain. Thanks for watching!
Best vid on the grinder I have seen. i watched this about 5 years ago..., I am real happy with the grinder.
Are you still using it?
I know people swear and can prove hand filing is better, but this is easier and cheaper (files wear) and I get great results....sometimes better than a new chain...believe it or not.
Yes. It still works great.
Superior camera work - thanks for posting!
Glad you liked it!
like you said, it will raise up. Using your thumb to hold it down is the only option I've found. I'm sure it's not in the instruction manual, but it works.
Thanks August!
excellent...
Thanks for watching!
good close up view
Thanks for watching!
*The newer one is better since it has the chainbrake lever on the handle and saves tiime, just squeeze the brake lever while you pull the handle down to cut and chain stays still. Just got mine for $25 using the coupon.*
Thanks for sharing your experience!
I find the best results with these plastic grinders is to set up so the wheel barely touches the chain and then put the 'slightest' sidewards pressure on the arbor headstock when bobbing to grind the chain. Unless you've hit a nail or some such it takes very little off and leaves the tooth razor sharp with no heating.
Thanks for sharing your experience!
Careful when you cut up trees the power companies cut down. Those are the ones closest to the road. The exact trees people nail signs into. Sign goes away. Nail finds my chainsaw. Actually, I am careful. I should say expect it.
When I sharpen the chain for the 1st time, I don't adjust both sides, because it keeps the cutters even so your saw doesn't cut crooked. I've had mine for 5 years, and I have better success that way. If it does cut crooked, then measure your right and left cutters, and set for the shortest of the 2, and your chain will be even.
Thanks for watching!
Wow! I can't believe some people do not understand the simple fact that most people use a chainsaw once a year or maybe for a short time in the Spring or Fall cutting firewood. While I use a saw all year round, I still wouldn't criticize someone who took the time to try and help others, especially if following the directions given will generally help 95% of the viewers!
It takes a lot of time, effort and experience to understand what does or does not work when attempting to sharpen a chain. The idea that the way you do it is the ONLY proper way is BS. I have one these machines used in the video because a friend of mine said it is a piece of junk and would never work correctly.
The two of us went down to HF on a Friday night and came home with this unit new in a box and a cold case of beer. After unpacking it and tinkering with the setup I took an old chain that had a fight with an old nail hidden in a piece of oak (the chain lost). Did it turn out like it would had I used my Oregon 620-120 unit? No.
I do know this: It took a chain that most people would have given up on if they only had a hand file and made it usable again. A weekend user would have been happy as chips were flying again and they still had $16 in their pocket instead of a trip to Home Depot for a new one. The gullet it makes isn't perfect and the grinding wheel it comes with is less than stellar. The amount of slop in the arbor support arm is noticeable and some work is needed on the chain brake.
Considering the price point of under $30.00 what more can you expect? Most people are NOT professional loggers or arborists that use a saw to put food on the table. Following the instructions in this video will save the casual user a lot of cash and trips to dealer. If this unit is used along with a hand file it does the job. The key is to only grind off a tiny amount each time the grinding wheel touches the tooth and then let it cool (You must do this or to much heat will destroy the temper of the steel in the tooth) Who cares if you have to go around 3 times on each side to clean up the chain? It is still faster than a hand file.
I would encourage anyone reading this to be patient and learn how to hand file. Use a roller file guide (Google it) and every time you stop for a gas and oil fill-up, take the file over each tooth 3 times. The extra time spent will be paid back and then some as your chain, the saw and bar it's on and your back will be very happy and last longer. Also, always keep your rakers or depth guides at the correct height and DO NOT make them lower than the specifications thinking it will cut faster. The only thing that's faster is the rate your bar, chain and saw wear out! Besides, the sharper the chain the safer the saw, as dull chains love to kick back and remove fingers, arms, faces and whatever else gets in the way.
The amount of money that could be saved by the average user makes this a no brainer. The learning curve and slight aggravation is more than worth the savings in money and time spent driving around delivering or picking up sharpened chains or purchasing new ones for any weekend saw warrior. The unit I bought is kept behind my truck seat with a 120V inverter. If I or one of my co-workers hit rocks, nails or whatever? I can fix it without driving back to the shop and be back into the fight without sweat and a stump vise.
PS-This unit works best on chains that are semi-chisel 3/8LP (low profile or Sthil Picco) pitch and .043 or .050 gauge. It will do others but without different wheels and other changes you may not be happy. Don't even TRY to use .404 mill or harvester chains!
Thank you for sharing your experience!
@superdog1964
Consider making a video with the information you describe here, and include demonstrations of what tooth-pitch chains this HF tool will--and will not--sharpen. Eleventy-bazillion videos exist on CZcams that demonstrate the setup and use of this tool. Your description within the comments field in this video is an accidental gem of information and sensible perspective hiding in an obscure corner of the Internet. Seriously... make a video.
@superdog1964 Let me second what Lothian Mcadam said above... Your comment here and experience is video worthy. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Its a good one
Thanks!
Just sub to you....great tip with mounting on a two by four...I will do that on mine....SALUTE
Thanks and good luck with yours. Mine has saved me a lot of $.
didnt even finish the video...using the vise to hold the sharpener was brilliant.
Thanks for watching!
it is brilliant. I've mounted mine to my tailgate with c-clamps when I'm out in the forest. whatever works....
L
I always keep a bottle of White Out in my gear to mark a point on the chain where I start sharpening. I have also used a crayon.
White out is a good idea and dries quickly. I'll have to remember that idea.
I use a sharpie. Works too
Although I have not worn out the grinding wheel yet, I wish these things had a spindle lock button. I had one and the wheel was not turning even though the motor was on and running. I took the side off and tried to tighten the PLASTIC nut on the PLASTIC spindle. I couldn't. There is no way to hold the spindle so that the nut can be taken off. I took that one back and told them and exchanged it for another one. Maybe that first one was defective?? Imagine that a defective tool from Harbor Freight. If for some bizarre reason the replacement one does the same thing I will just spend the extra money for a good one. I have seen a few knock-offs of he Oregon sharpeners that are less than $100. The only reason I got the one from Harbor Freight is I know someone who has one of them and they are easy to setup. They are also cheap and don't seem to grind rakers. I just mounted mine to a small and very cheaply made table in the garage. I can easily move it any time that way.
One thing to watch out for is the chain bunching up and not laying flat. I destroyed a couple teeth accidentally because of that. It can happen to anyone. Luckily it was just one or two teeth and the chain was still usable for the most part. One thing I lie to do is mark the first tooth I cut with a permanent marker so I know when I am at the last tooth. I like blue since it is easier to see on these.
I agree you do need to make sure each tooth is in the right position. It's not an automatic thing. Thanks for the comments.
Same thing happened to me
When change the angle on the second pass, are you sharpening the same tooth?
No. Half the teeth are sharpened in one direction the other half in the other. I will make sense when you look at it.
You can file your fingerprint nail to. All joking aside. Great video. Thanks
You're welcome!
Works great with my little chain, but on my chain that takes a 7/32” file it screws it up so my hand file can’t touch it up. The only replacement wheel at HF is 1/8” thick. Apparently, if your chainsaw has a “3/8 pitch,” then you need a 3/16” thick wheel. (Also, you should flip your wheel every 20 chains or so).
smile.amazon.com/OREGON-OR4125-316A-Grinding-Wheel-Chain/dp/B001SCIT8E
All the teeth on one side are ground front to back while the other side are ground back to front.
One side is sharper than the other and a long cut will curve to the left.
Thanks for watching!
Not if the depth gauge is set properly. If the rakers are even the saw will cut straight.
You are sharpening for a chainsaw, not CNC mill. Remember the end use.
good point, i said the same thing to another fool with a grinder on another vid about the teeth not being sharpened from the in going out on one side of the chain , these grinder guys dont mention it .the best is a file, a depth gage and a vice ,at least you can see what the fuck your doing plus you dont have to worry about cutting any fingers off with that stupid grinder lol
Mine does the same.
I do everything I can to be consistent but the angle must vary side to side.
How do you file down the rakers?
This video shows you: czcams.com/video/BQZHEqNvPCk/video.html
I put a mark with nail polish for my starting point
That's a good idea!
what size wheel is best.?
I use the 4 1/4 wheel that comes on the grinder and it works well.
Do you use the same size of grinding wheel and all your chains
Yes, it's the same wheel for all my chains. Thanks for watching!
Soat Mon thank you I've been wondering about that
What grinding wheel are you using? Regards, Tony
It's the one that came on the sharpener.
Actually lines on chains are how far you can cut away at chain before they are no good. If you can look at a new chain you'll see marks on spacer to grind/sharpen it down to lowest point, and marks on actually cutting tooth as well.
Why don't you go talk to a 2cycle mechanic and find why it's really there and not just your personal opinion. That is exactly what the line is for it has marking on tooth on side and top, and guide tooth as well. Check your shit before you call someone out.
I agree, my mechanics use chainsaws though and I'm sure they have experience in running and operating them as well. Here in Texas firewood is pretty common thing for people to cut. I'm sure you could sharpen them past the line I doubt stihl would go through all the trouble to make marks on their chains if it was not something recommended. I don't do firewood for a living but do cut down 20-30 trees a year and that's the guidelines that I follow.
On stihl chains the marks are the angle the tooth should be cut at.
Tree service I worked for I saw a guy go past few times he hand one that was gone was like seems kinda dangerous to use a chain had a cutter messing :/
I still think the file and a gauge is the best way to sharpen a chain.
you put your finger in a danger point, that will make you in a risk to lost another finger. be careful and thanks for this great video.
Your welcome. Thanks for watching!
After i do 10 or more blades. The wheel gets to big. Then just cuts too much. How do u keep wheel rounded
I have not had that problem and have cut well over a hundred blades. Maybe you are pressing too hard and losing the profile on the wheel or maybe you have a soft wheel. I would replace the wheel and take it slow.
oil build up on the wheel from the chain causes wheel not to grind good you can buy wheel dresser stone and gage for less than $10.00 I wash chains in a little gas before grinding to take oil off
They are called rakers. They control the depth of cut. for softer woods you can go a bit deeper with them.
What I'm confused about is that a new chain looks as if it's got a rounded gullet in the tooth as if it's been filed with a round stone or file, whatever the factory uses, but this sharpener appears to go straight down but at an angle, I don't see how that method can grind the same profile that a round file would make...🤔
The stone is rounded on the bottom and comes in at an angle so the profile is very much the same after grinding.
@@SoatMon Ok, that makes since.
Looks like you got your finger to close. But a good video and tips.
Missing a finger.. I'm not holding it with my fingers.. jk ty great video. Just got the red one.
Thanks! It should do a good job for you.
@@SoatMon I didnt find a single video of it. Hurricane Michael destroyed us here no chains for miles so sharpener is the only option. Thanks for the info. Really did help me and a lot of other folks out. Merry Christmas my friend and happy new year.
That is why I bought one. They take off most of your chain. And then tell you they have too.
That line on the cuttter is not for the angle to shapen the chain its to let you know when to buy a new chain
It's for both.
That line is absolutely for the angle.
👍🇮🇳
Thank you!
Very Good!... #176 ✝ {5-18-2022}
just use a fkn vice a file and a depth gage this way you see what you are filing and you will save a finger or two ,a grinder will burn your chain and will not sharpen it the same on both sides of the chain because the grind should be from the inner side going outward and a grinder only grinds one way
The line on the chain is for the angle, when you use a file, which is much better than a grinder, and the way this guy is sharping the chain, it will not last long because he is going down too fast and burning the metal, taking out the temperament. Also he is taking way too much off. The grinding wheel should just barely touch the chain, with very little sparking. If you use a file, the chain will be much sharper and stay sharper much longer because you are not creating the high heat on the metal.
good info.
You are correct big mower. Finally someone who knows what he's talking about.
Very Good, 2nd Watch!... #172 ✝ {8-27-2022}
Thanks Carl!
The fact that you have to hold the stop down with your thumb is a flaw in the design or something is just wrong with it. Man, Be careful!!!!
well he has lost half a finger before.
New ones have a brake handle on the pull down to hold it
Not to pee in your porridge, but ... Bud has one- got it really cheap. Tried in on a few cutters of old chain. IMO, total POS, so flexible as to be totally random. Northern Tool has much better grinder for ~$100. Grinding chains is IMO only for rocked chains or lazy-S hacks. Guided filing (like w/Granberg guide) gives way better results, for KEEPING chain sharp, and can set depth gauges. Total no-brainer- really sharp chains that last much longer, not being tossed as sparks.
he must just cuts 2x4 from rona!
what happened to your finger ...its gone...
I made a video about it. czcams.com/video/Y44gkm4m1uo/video.html
You are going to the wrong shop. Any respectable shop only grinds as needed. It's faster for them that way too - time is money.
Absolute junk!
It's not junk if it extends the life of the chain! I agree, it's not perfect, but it DOES extend the life of the chain and saves you money.
Great video
Great video
Great video