Still Vibrating - Another BENT Axle!
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- čas přidán 8. 07. 2022
- Found another bent LR axle. Will the vibrations finally be gone?
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set trans at 2-3 degrees DOWN, fix coil over clearance, adjust pinion to 1-3 up!
First, THANKS for the post and sharing the troubleshooting info!
I had the come and go vibration in my 70 for some years and only when swapping to rear disc discovered binding lugs when mounting my LH wheel, which prompted me to inspect my Dutchman axle. What I found was two stud holes were offset, and those studs were loose. I did not check axle true, but did buy Yukon axles which of course fixed the stud issue, but need to drive it to check vibration resolve. Another factor may be my driveshaft as I had mine shortened and rebalanced back then as I have an Art Carr 200-4r trans.
I feel your pain sorry brother hope you figure it out
wow, never heard of that kind of problem or that different posi's required different axle splines.. what were the shims for before you installed the rotor. wheels hub centric
Nice car, I would lose the wheel spacers, measure the driveline angles if you haven’t all ready. Looks like you are very thorough in measuring stuff, you’ll find issue eventually. I chased down a bad vibration that would come and go, turned out to be an exhaust hanger where the metal is riveted together through the rubber. I’d have to show it for it to make sense. Anyhow, it took me a long time too find it, chased everything from the rear diff up to the transmission. I was surprised at how bad the axles looked when you ran them on the lathe. I’ve had great success with Quick Performance diff parts and their prices are reasonable.
Drive shaft might be the issue imo. I would also weld the axle tubes to the diff housing for good measure.
We are dealing with the same exact bs. Vibrations that wont go away and a ANNOYING WHINING YUKON REAREND! Ive seriously considered just selling the damn thing and starting over with another chevelle.
me too! Spending so much money and time chasing something that never should be giving an issue.
@@SS454LS6 Well just know that you aren't crazy and you aren't alone. I'm going through the same shit with my 72.
Do u have wheel to axle register , center bore location rings .?? These carry most of the vehicle weight . I personally would not buy Moser axles again for your next project .Customer serv might be good but quality control is avg at best .
Can you swap out drive shafts? (dunno if you have an old one laying about) Also check pinion angle. My old set up did the same thing (highway speed vibration).
No other driveshaft to swap with. It's custom length due to T56 Magnum. In the previous video, you can see i double checked my driveline angles.
Following this, I hope you find the trouble , I just bought a Dennys driveshaft for my Moser rearend.
If you have any issues let us know. I doubt you will though.
@@SS454LS6 Ok I will let you know.
Could you have damaged the tailshaft bushing when your driveline angles were off? Just a thought, that and have the drive shaft balance checked
My driveline angles were never extreme. They were well within spec, just not perfect. Driveshaft balance is a possibility, though Denny's balances to 10,000 rpm and they will only cover the driveshaft if they are the ones to check it.
Howdy
This sucks. Good diagnosis though 👍
Question. Does the rotor have a cut out/relief for the centering/locating ring so it sits up against the axle flange?
I noticed you put the locating ring on the axle end before the rotor. Then believe i saw a gap between the rotor and axle flange through the stud holes.
The brake rotors do have a larger ID than the axle flange OD, so a centering ring is provided. This does center the brake rotor, but the spacer I run does not get centered, so I came up with my own solution to fix that.
@@SS454LS6 i was wondering if that centering ring is possibly keeping the rotor hat face from sitting flush against the axle flange. Otherwise leaving a small gap?
Yes. I did see how you centered the wheel spacer at the studs 👍👍
@@Project-uy3hb The brake does sit flush against the flange. Thanks for the suggestion.
Just left you a comment in your IG. Is it possible not having the centering ring on your rims due to the spacer causing this?
I'll add one more thing that I just thought of too... Try and keep your changes to just 1 at a time to keep from chasing your tail. This can help from making making a change that adds to your vibration.
Maybe try a different set of rims and tires?
All my rims are lug centric, so I don't think any centering ring matters. I agree about 1 change at a time. Sometimes not always possible. I have 3 different sets of wheels/tires, they all had vibration. However I'll put one of the other sets on at some point and see if there is much diff. Usually the drag tires feel worse.
@@SS454LS6 they may be lug centric but it still needs a centering ring. I've seen lots of aftermarket rims over the years have odd vibration issues. It's been 25 years since I worked a shop that sold aftermarket rims. I was their alignment & suspension guy. Since that shop I went to work for an AC/Delco tech center and now I'm on my own.
While it may not be the cause it would help to swap to a know straight rim & tire that fits the axle center and retest.
It is extremely odd for another bent left rear axle again... I'm the one who messaged you before that the LR Axle is bent on my 67 Chevelle. I haven't driven it in some years but I always suspected the aftermarket rims may be making it worse. I just haven't had the time to dig into it.
When you're fixing everyone else's car... your own gets ignored. Mine has been ignored for way too long.
@@SS454LS6 ps... What's even more odd is those lug studs being bent too. Are those the ones that came with those axles?
@@sean7134 very true... unfortunately he never updated what it was causing the vibration or if has eveb been fixed yet. He just went on to other things.
What is axle sfadt8 go int
I’m having the same problem went through 3 axles one stock two moser 31 splined ford 9” in a 65 Mustang manual 4 speed clutch posi center maybe 300hp on a good day I have no idea how I could be bending axles and never hit or slid into any curbs
On the new install did you bend the last axle in your car just wondering if I should buy another from moser?
Both my bent left rear axles were in my Moser 12 bolt which I bought brand new. Andrews 68 also was a bent LR Moser axle. Hard for me to recommend Moser at this point.
@@SS454LS6 I’ve been calling companies about my flange bending and both asked me what type of axle Bering I was using I told them straight ball they told me straight ball doesn’t hold up to torsional loads when hard cornering and could cause the flange to bend they recommend in most all applications a tapered bearing now when I bought my 2nd axle from summit they asked me what kind of bearing I hade on the old shaft and explained how hard cornering could be bad for the axle and bearing but since I was only replacing one axle I didn’t think too much into what he was saying so what I’m gathering donuts and corner burnouts not a good idea for axle flange with straight ball bearings but tapered bearings will take more lateral load for me I didn’t have tapered bearings if you have tapered in your chevelle then I guess you will keep searching hopefully for me this will fix this problem.
Good luck
In your vibration v3 vid, there was a lot of lash at the pinion. That should be .006 to .008 mils, never more than .010 mils. Lots of violent things happen when it goes over that. I'm sure you set it right to begin with, but what is it now? Howling pretty bad too. Just guessing . . . and this is the expensive stuff.
The lash is in the truetrac differential. Detroit claims it is normal due to the 3 helical gears, but it has always seemed excessive to me. The howling is a whole other issue that I can't seem to get rid of (set up 3 times, 2 different gear sets).
@@SS454LS6 I THINK THE BACK LASH IS AT THE PINION. There is some lash in the tru trac I have a 4x4 with both diffs. You ring pinion seems to have to much play. Maybe you have a bad tire? Anothe thin is the wheel studs them selves. what if they are not drilled in the correct place like measured from the center out. so the circle of studs make it function in an eccentric way. This would translate to an up and down action. at the tire/wheel. I would take out the drive line and tow it to speed and see if it rolls with a vibration. this would rule out a lot of things.. Also the wheel spacers move the wheel rotor out further away from the bearing. have someone check the rear diff bearings and verify the thing is set up properly. Somehow I think we are all missing something very basic. Balance the drive shaft? Yes they make good ones.. you must always be willing to think a known good part is possibly bad.
@@johnkemple I have checked backlash at the ring gear. It was around .008. The rest of the slop appears to be in the true-trac
Wheel spacers are the issue.
Hello from Australia. Just seeing if you have found the cause of the vibration as I am in a similar boat to you
Swapping the bent axle helped for sure, but not 100% fixed. I do notice it's much better with my street tires than the drag tires.
@@SS454LS6 I have pulled the trigger and taken my tailshaft out and sent it back to the guys who built it to rebalance with a smaller tolerance. I’ll let you know what comes back. I look forward to your next video.
So he wasn't noticing a vibration in his car with his axle ??
Nope. Though he doesn't drive on the highway as often as I do on his street tires, and when driving to the race track he's on his bias ply slicks. Not sure if that made a difference or not.
Did you ever find out the problem why your axel is getting bent?
No definitive reason and no good explanation that makes sense. It could simply be because the Moser studs are weak and once they bend, then it puts weird torque on the axle. But to me that still shouldn't be enough to bend 1.5" diameter solid steel shafts.
@@SS454LS6 I keep thinking in my mind what can be wrong. I'll figure it out. Did you read my other response in previous videos. I can't remember which one I responded to but it said you posted the video 5 months ago.
@@SS454LS6 I owned a 70 LS6. Sold it like an ass back in 1983. I found it 6 months ago and the owner sent me pictures. It's untouched except the Crager SS wheels are gone and the original wheels are on it.
@@raykasza6855 That's amazing you found it and it's pretty much exactly the same.
Typical of a hodgepodge of aftermarket “bolt on”parts
Diff gears probably not set correct, not to mention rim/tire not beeded correctly “check beed line” !
Static and Dynamic tire balance!! ?
Out of round tire 🛞?
I have 3 sets of wheels and tires, happens on all of them, but worse on the Weld wheels and drag tires. Diff gears have been changed and set and look great. I have videos on the gears and videos on runout of the wheels.
Sure seems like driveshaft to me.
It very well could be.
Go back to stock axles 😆
No can do now. Not without changing the LSD at least. 33 spline vs 30 spline.
@@SS454LS6 I feel you just be patient and keep searching and eventually you'll find out the problem. 👍
Doubt you are bending them. Just how it came.
I can confirm the previous axle went in the car straight. For some reason, they are bending in the car.