I really like your presentation. I am thinking about getting a chainsaw mill for some limited slab use. I would HIGHLY recommend to anybody who is thinking about getting into this to watch your video first! This is an excellent presentation that doesn’t waste the viewer’s time - it is to-the-point, both and logical and concise and on a practical level!
bucking spikes are removable so that small amount of mill capacity can be recaptured. One thing advantageous about the portable chainsaw mill is you don't need to have equipment to put the log into a bandsaw mill. Some people squawk about the waste of wood a chainsaw creates with the large kerf, in reality it is not significant unless you are dealing with some precious exotic wood. This chainsaw milling is a young mans domain, the physical strain is considerable. I milled starting in early 1980's and last milling I did was late 1990's. It is not a fast, easy way to mill but it is highly versatile and effective, well suited for the guy that occasionally wants to mill some wood.
I bought a Zozen mill ($84) off Amazon and I gotta say, I'm very impressed. Especially with a Ripping Chain and my 550Xp. Im on a bit of tight budget after buying the brand new 550XP. And my old Husky won't do it. My dads homemade from the 1970s sawmill was gonna cost me $68 to ship, so that was out. But so far I've milled 9, 6x6x10's for my moms dock on the lake here at 9100 ft, in Boulder County Colorado. But I took the time and read every single review on this particular model of the sawmill. The pictures were of actual arborists like myself with brains who figured out the formula. Yes, it's got some drawbacks, uts Chinese afterall, but, it's nothing major at all though. Not like the loads of sawmill garbage brands they're actually continuing to sell on the Amazonian that people have expressed their grievances about. Same company with all the horrible reviews (under different brands), but it's pretty obvious they're actually innovating their mill, and the Zozen was their latest and best by far. For me, the Actual ALASKAN® MKIV CHAINSAW MILL was a bit expensive for me at this juncture at $289. We've modified the Zozen mill, slightly, and now have it perfect. So many mills on Amazon have some terrible reviews. But with this model, some intelligent American men managed to find simple, nothing major, workarounds on this brand/model that won't break the bank at all. Heck!!! I spent more on the steel L-Brackets that I had to fabricate for the extension ladder guide than what I paid for the mill. BTW! Home Depot is selling these very 6x6x10s for $49 each! And I need 12. THAT'S FREE LUMBER ALL YEAR BABY! And I love it, Its gonna be one great summer. Great video.
How did you seal them? Because the HD ones are ground contact treated. I have the same mill. But I buy treated 6x6 because I want them to last forever.
I just started milling myself, cut my first log (Spruce) last weekend. This weekend I'm milling a white oak, which is a whole different animal than the spruce. I 100% agree with you, it's very hard work. Much harder than I expected it to be, and much slower than I thought. I didn't realize just how slow I have to go when cutting, especially with the oak (I've made 2 cuts so far). My Mill - When the big oak fell, I started looking into ways to slab it. That's when I learned chainsaw mills existed. The base and first few feet of the oak is 35"~ wide, so I had to go big with the saw and bar. I'm using a Stihl 661 with a 42" bar, mounted on a mill I built myself out of 1.25 x 1.25 extruded aluminum. I drilled the bar so I could bolt it to the mill, which gives me a wider cutting area vs a clamp type mill. The hole at the end of the bar is drilled in the center of the sprocket tip, in the middle of the circle of rivets that hold the sprocket (5/16" bolt). It works fine, didn't hurt or hinder the sprocket at all, it spins fine. I removed the dog and drilled the other hole just far enough away that the square tube on the mill clears the saw when bolted on. That gave me a cutting width of 38.5" with the 42" bar. I also rigged up a bottle and drip line at the end of the mill to drip vegetable oil on the bar when cutting. I plan on adding a hand winch so I can just crank that when cutting. It'll keep the rig straight as it cuts, and will make the slow cut a little easier to do (I hope). Chains - I have two brand new Oregon 10 degree ripping chains, I haven't used a standard crosscut chain.....yet. I have three Oregon 42" crosscut chains. With the first ripping chain, I cut all 4 sides of the spruce. After cutting it the cant measures 19" H x 17" W. I set it aside and moved onto the oak. The top cut on the oak was about 12"-14" wide. After the top cut, ripping chain #1 was done. I put the second ripping chain on and made the second cut without the ladder. That slab is 14" wide, 1.25" thick, and after cutting it, chain #2 was dull. I'm now going to use a crosscut chain and see how it works. I can sharpen 30 degree chains (Stihl 2 in 1 sharpener, works awesome), but I don't have the ability to sharpen a 10 degree chain. If the hard oak dulls the chain with each pass, I can sharpen the 30 degree chains as needed. I've read the only difference between a 10 and a 30 is the 10 degree ripping chain leaves a smoother finish on the board. I've also read, countless times, people saying they don't notice any difference in how well or how fast the saw cuts when using a ripping chain. I use a 14' section of a fiberglass extension ladder to make my top cuts. I can't help but wonder - when you have your ladder extended, does it flex down when you're on the extended part of the ladder?
Hey thanks for the comment! I am in the same boat as you. I will be trying out a 15deg chain this weekend and seeing what difference if any it makes. Sounds like you have a good setup. I had considered making my own, but in the end decided to get the Granberg. Yes the ladder will flex a bit if fully extended, so I usually eyeball it, prop it back to level with a couple wedges and then tack it with my ubolts. If you are using fiberglass you may see even more flex. I use my ladder as a ladder sometimes. 😂 otherwise I would pull out the bottom stop and feet so you could slide it either way, center it, and then it would have a ton of reach. On shorter runs it wouldn’t flex as much either way. Hope that answers your questions. Happy milling. -Robert
I just recently found out about these chainsaw mills. Started eyeballing them on Amazon and stopped to research. Your video was very helpful! These look like it'll be exactly what I need to occasionally mill when I need it. Now I just need to figure out the drying process and I'll probably pull the trigger on one of these!
Very interesting! I used one of these for a cherry tree and one other. There definitely is a learning curve - it took me quite a long time doing the first one :) will have another go on Saturday and try to find some oak. I only have a 24“ saw so may have to do some vertical cuts🙋🏻♀️Anna
Very cool Anna. I would love a cherry tree to cut into! I hope to eventually get into hardwoods for woodworking projects with mine. Hope you find a good oak tree. Happy milling. 👍 -Robert
Good review. Lots of useful information. Like you, I hope to have a saw mill some day, but for now, an Alaskan mill will have to do. A ripping chain does help some, but it is still a slow process.
Thanks for all the info! I'm trying to mill heavy ash into beams and trying to figure out if I should build a mill or use my 462 Stihl. My pockets aren't as deep as I'd like haha
@@TheOregonTale I’m wanting to cut down some phone poles I got into square posts, would the ladder plus mill make a straight beam? Ladder seems like the ticket
Hi Eric. Yes im sure you could use the ladder for that. You might use a large square when setting up the ladder the second time so it will be a nice and square post.
I mill quit a lot of lumber, soft woods. I have a rip chain but don’t use it because I don’t use the mill. I freehand (chalk line) the log down the center because I don’t want the heart, trim the sides, stand it up and trim the other side. Sawing freehand is two to three times faster than trying to cut it at 90 deg. Uses a lot less gas and is not so hard on your saw. I store the beam until dry then plane the top and cut up the beam with a 16” saw to what I want.
I did a little bit of freehand when I made my workbench for the shop and actually did pretty good. Of course they were already in thick slabs at that point. I will have to try a it from the log up one of these days when I am feeling adventurous. -Robert
I loved this video, you’re hilarious. ‘I still don’t have the money’ I was crack in’ up, lol I’m not sure anyone watching this video has the money, They’d just go buy the lumber. Great video man
Okay yeah you're right a bigger song will always help you even though they're heavy they have the horsepower personally owned a Stihl 660 I and the standard chain does not rip worth a darn 4 Crosscut it work perfect.. Granberg makes a very good rip Shane I suggest you buy a couple and I don't think you'll go back during.you're ripping or slapping process to regular chain. noticed you having the Seesaw on walk your chainsaw in the cut didn't see any wedges try a couple of those and it will help. relieve the pressure on a chainsaw as you get into the cut.
Thanks Al! I guess I will have to break down and get a ripping chain. 👍 I use the wedges sometimes on the cuts if it seems like it’s bogging down. The weather hasn’t been great the last month or two so I’m itching to get back out and cut some more. -Robert
love the info, just wondering on how deep you pound those half rings in when securing the ladder for first cut? obviously not deeper than how deep your cut will be, but is 3/4 inch or so deep enough to keep the ladder from moving around?
Hey Jake. Depends a little on the tree. They usually go in probably 1.5- 2”. I don’t think 3/4 would be enough to hold especially in thick bark. When I was first experimenting with that, I went and got several sizes of u-bolts to try out. I took a grinder and shaved an angle into the threads so I could pound them in like a staple. The threads left act like a ring shank nail and stick into the wood very well. That first cut with the ladder should be thick enough to miss the u-bolts and get you down into good useable wood. Hope that helps. -Robert
well two things are super huge in doing any form of milling with a chainsaw one the Alaskan winch is a huge deal and a proper ripping chain well a few ripping chains. is all you need to go remote and build a cabin best tool to have with all your lumberjacking tools.... yea its long to cut but its super portable it gets the job done and it works... having a band saw mill way better but you cant take it with you. out to a site that is only accessible by quad. if you can get the winch it really up your game. overall fantastic video.
If you get a rip-cut skip-tooth or double skip chain your saw will act like a much more powerful saw. Also, whenever possible, remove the bark before milling. The bark does terrible things to a chain saw chain.
Sure you can cut faster it's all in your powerplant meaning if you are planing on sawing your Owen lumber you need a 100 plus cc swathe 088 still with 30inch bare and the chain sharpened correctly with a hand crank you would be surprised
Cut the biggest chunk out of your log with your chainsaw mill....then use a decent bandsaw/tablesaw to cut into smaller lumber. It will be a lot quicker if you use the correct chain!
Hi Jason. It will run it, but not tons of power when it’s fully buried. It would also probably depend on what you are cutting. I am usually in fir and cedar. Loads of power at 24”, still does well at 32”, but at 36” it will do it, but it’s punching a bit above its weight class. But I’m not going to buy another saw at this point, so I just run it. Most of the time though, I run the 32” and am pretty happy at that length. -Robert
@@TheOregonTale Thank you, I’m wanting to get started on my own small project. I have two saws. A 441 and a 362c. I have been doing some homemade and it’s looking like a 36 will be the biggest I can go. I think I’m gonna pull the trigger and get it. Thank you for the help. Safe cutting!
I loosen it just enough to slide but not so much it falls down, tap one side into place, finger tighten it, then bring other side up and finger tighten, back to first side and final tighten with wrench, then back and tighten with wrench. It can be a real finicky if it’s too loose. -Robert
First, remove your felling dogs to gain more cutting surface. Second, get a milling chain. You'll get smoother cuts. Although it's a bit slower. Third, always stick with stihl. Gotta love 'em. I've run Husqvarna and stihl, actually still run both but stihl has the power to weight ratio beat
Without scrolling through the comments to see what others have said, I would critique your video as follows: You address the difference between a portable unit like the Granberg versus a full-on mill in terms of capital outlay, which of course, is a big consideration, but you fail to mention the HUGE difference in waste when using a chainsaw versus a bandsaw mill such as Woodmizer. Over a long-term situation, this tradeoff tends to very favorable offset the much higher cost of the Woodmizer et-al option, for those who want to really take a longer view into consideration. A chainsaw carves out a humongous kerf with each cut, and this tradeoff must be considered when a person is weighing the plusses/minuses. In certain applications, the portable mill works marvelously, but you shortchange the viewer by not allowing them to see these considerations. You also are neglectful in only covering your particular mill with no other manufacturers to compare it to.
Great review and spot on. We use the same set up but a bit bigger. It is hard work but like you said, nothing beats looking at the inside of a big log.
are you kidding, that's at least a ms400 or 600, plenty of power.....reality is chainsaws are NOT meant to cut "with" the grain, period......they are going slow no matter what Unless you have soft wood......Real milling machines use Much thinner blades and are designed to cut with the grain.
I really like your presentation.
I am thinking about getting a chainsaw mill for some limited slab use. I would HIGHLY recommend to anybody who is thinking about getting into this to watch your video first! This is an excellent presentation that doesn’t waste the viewer’s time - it is to-the-point, both and logical and concise and on a practical level!
Thanks so much Ken! Appreciate that. -Robert
Rip chain works way better. I crank out lumber with my Rip chain 42''on holtzfarma g395xp setup
I have to give you 5 Stars! You are presenting this like most of us, average every day Joe’s that don;t have a lot of cash…you did an Awesome Job!
Thank you very much!
I really appreciate the calm realism of your presentation. Thank You.
Thank you!
bucking spikes are removable so that small amount of mill capacity can be recaptured. One thing advantageous about the portable chainsaw mill is you don't need to have equipment to put the log into a bandsaw mill. Some people squawk about the waste of wood a chainsaw creates with the large kerf, in reality it is not significant unless you are dealing with some precious exotic wood. This chainsaw milling is a young mans domain, the physical strain is considerable. I milled starting in early 1980's and last milling I did was late 1990's. It is not a fast, easy way to mill but it is highly versatile and effective, well suited for the guy that occasionally wants to mill some wood.
You should try a rip chain. I suspect the rip chain will work WAY faster and with a lot less stress on your saw.
Yeah I probably should order one up and try it one of these days. -Robert
have you used one?
I can say it's not much faster. 10 degrees on the chain certainly will make it smoother. A 660 is gonna move faster than a 440.
@@MrThenry1988, sharpen to 15 degrees, you'll be amazed!
@@theamirbarismillworks2253 Alright then.
I bought a Zozen mill ($84) off Amazon and I gotta say, I'm very impressed. Especially with a Ripping Chain and my 550Xp. Im on a bit of tight budget after buying the brand new 550XP. And my old Husky won't do it. My dads homemade from the 1970s sawmill was gonna cost me $68 to ship, so that was out. But so far I've milled 9, 6x6x10's for my moms dock on the lake here at 9100 ft, in Boulder County Colorado. But I took the time and read every single review on this particular model of the sawmill. The pictures were of actual arborists like myself with brains who figured out the formula. Yes, it's got some drawbacks, uts Chinese afterall, but, it's nothing major at all though. Not like the loads of sawmill garbage brands they're actually continuing to sell on the Amazonian that people have expressed their grievances about. Same company with all the horrible reviews (under different brands), but it's pretty obvious they're actually innovating their mill, and the Zozen was their latest and best by far. For me, the Actual ALASKAN® MKIV CHAINSAW MILL was a bit expensive for me at this juncture at $289. We've modified the Zozen mill, slightly, and now have it perfect. So many mills on Amazon have some terrible reviews. But with this model, some intelligent American men managed to find simple, nothing major, workarounds on this brand/model that won't break the bank at all. Heck!!! I spent more on the steel L-Brackets that I had to fabricate for the extension ladder guide than what I paid for the mill. BTW! Home Depot is selling these very 6x6x10s for $49 each! And I need 12. THAT'S FREE LUMBER ALL YEAR BABY! And I love it, Its gonna be one great summer. Great video.
How did you seal them? Because the HD ones are ground contact treated. I have the same mill. But I buy treated 6x6 because I want them to last forever.
I just started milling myself, cut my first log (Spruce) last weekend. This weekend I'm milling a white oak, which is a whole different animal than the spruce.
I 100% agree with you, it's very hard work. Much harder than I expected it to be, and much slower than I thought. I didn't realize just how slow I have to go when cutting, especially with the oak (I've made 2 cuts so far).
My Mill -
When the big oak fell, I started looking into ways to slab it. That's when I learned chainsaw mills existed. The base and first few feet of the oak is 35"~ wide, so I had to go big with the saw and bar. I'm using a Stihl 661 with a 42" bar, mounted on a mill I built myself out of 1.25 x 1.25 extruded aluminum. I drilled the bar so I could bolt it to the mill, which gives me a wider cutting area vs a clamp type mill. The hole at the end of the bar is drilled in the center of the sprocket tip, in the middle of the circle of rivets that hold the sprocket (5/16" bolt). It works fine, didn't hurt or hinder the sprocket at all, it spins fine.
I removed the dog and drilled the other hole just far enough away that the square tube on the mill clears the saw when bolted on. That gave me a cutting width of 38.5" with the 42" bar. I also rigged up a bottle and drip line at the end of the mill to drip vegetable oil on the bar when cutting.
I plan on adding a hand winch so I can just crank that when cutting. It'll keep the rig straight as it cuts, and will make the slow cut a little easier to do (I hope).
Chains -
I have two brand new Oregon 10 degree ripping chains, I haven't used a standard crosscut chain.....yet. I have three Oregon 42" crosscut chains.
With the first ripping chain, I cut all 4 sides of the spruce. After cutting it the cant measures 19" H x 17" W. I set it aside and moved onto the oak. The top cut on the oak was about 12"-14" wide. After the top cut, ripping chain #1 was done. I put the second ripping chain on and made the second cut without the ladder. That slab is 14" wide, 1.25" thick, and after cutting it, chain #2 was dull. I'm now going to use a crosscut chain and see how it works. I can sharpen 30 degree chains (Stihl 2 in 1 sharpener, works awesome), but I don't have the ability to sharpen a 10 degree chain. If the hard oak dulls the chain with each pass, I can sharpen the 30 degree chains as needed.
I've read the only difference between a 10 and a 30 is the 10 degree ripping chain leaves a smoother finish on the board. I've also read, countless times, people saying they don't notice any difference in how well or how fast the saw cuts when using a ripping chain.
I use a 14' section of a fiberglass extension ladder to make my top cuts. I can't help but wonder - when you have your ladder extended, does it flex down when you're on the extended part of the ladder?
Hey thanks for the comment! I am in the same boat as you. I will be trying out a 15deg chain this weekend and seeing what difference if any it makes. Sounds like you have a good setup. I had considered making my own, but in the end decided to get the Granberg. Yes the ladder will flex a bit if fully extended, so I usually eyeball it, prop it back to level with a couple wedges and then tack it with my ubolts. If you are using fiberglass you may see even more flex. I use my ladder as a ladder sometimes. 😂 otherwise I would pull out the bottom stop and feet so you could slide it either way, center it, and then it would have a ton of reach. On shorter runs it wouldn’t flex as much either way. Hope that answers your questions. Happy milling. -Robert
Was the bark dirty or any dead wood ? That will dull a rip chain quickly
I just recently found out about these chainsaw mills. Started eyeballing them on Amazon and stopped to research. Your video was very helpful! These look like it'll be exactly what I need to occasionally mill when I need it. Now I just need to figure out the drying process and I'll probably pull the trigger on one of these!
Awesome. Glad it helped. It’s very enjoyable. Nothing quite like cutting into a tree and seeing what’s inside the next slab. 👍 Happy Milling. -Robert
Excellent and very detailed turoial Lon how to use the Granberg Mill. Love your creativity with the Ladder! Makes a whole. Lot of Sense….
Thank you for your advice!
I always learn something from your videos! Thanks for sharing what you have learned.
Thank you Mary! -Robert
I totally enjoyed learning from you. Great video!!
Thank you John! -Robert
Very interesting! I used one of these for a cherry tree and one other. There definitely is a learning curve - it took me quite a long time doing the first one :) will have another go on Saturday and try to find some oak. I only have a 24“ saw so may have to do some vertical cuts🙋🏻♀️Anna
Very cool Anna. I would love a cherry tree to cut into! I hope to eventually get into hardwoods for woodworking projects with mine. Hope you find a good oak tree. Happy milling. 👍 -Robert
Great video. Thanks for the insights. I'm still pondering getting one.
Thank you! -Robert
Good review. Lots of useful information. Like you, I hope to have a saw mill some day, but for now, an Alaskan mill will have to do. A ripping chain does help some, but it is still a slow process.
Thanks
This video has convinced me to get one. Thanks for the tips and making the video. I wish you good health and prosperity. Cheers :-)
Thanks! I hope you enjoy milling up some boards! -Robert
Amazing video! I am an arborist, and can say from personal experience, get a Stihl 660 or 661, don't bother with the 880... The 880 is a PAIN to use!
Excellent video and rendition. Thank you.
Thank you!
Awesome video! THanks, Man!
Thank you. -Robert
Thanks for the video
Thanks for all the info! I'm trying to mill heavy ash into beams and trying to figure out if I should build a mill or use my 462 Stihl. My pockets aren't as deep as I'd like haha
Lol. I hear you on that. Either way it sure is satisfying to make your own! Happy milling sir. -Robert
Nice my boss..👍
Keep safe to your freehand mill 🙂
Very Interesting Video. Thank for sharing.
Thanks Robert
really enjoyed the video, thanks for the tip with the ladder
Thanks. Hope it helps. 👍 -Robert
@@TheOregonTale I’m wanting to cut down some phone poles I got into square posts, would the ladder plus mill make a straight beam? Ladder seems like the ticket
Hi Eric. Yes im sure you could use the ladder for that. You might use a large square when setting up the ladder the second time so it will be a nice and square post.
I mill quit a lot of lumber, soft woods. I have a rip chain but don’t use it because I don’t use the mill. I freehand (chalk line) the log down the center because I don’t want the heart, trim the sides, stand it up and trim the other side. Sawing freehand is two to three times faster than trying to cut it at 90 deg. Uses a lot less gas and is not so hard on your saw. I store the beam until dry then plane the top and cut up the beam with a 16” saw to what I want.
I did a little bit of freehand when I made my workbench for the shop and actually did pretty good. Of course they were already in thick slabs at that point. I will have to try a it from the log up one of these days when I am feeling adventurous. -Robert
Solid presentation, I've been on the fence about these. After watching, I think I'll give it a shot!
Awesome. Thank you. I hope you enjoy some happy milling! 👍 -Robert
Hey, so I have Stihl ms291, u think it's enough saw? 20 inch bar
Yeah I think it would run it ok. May be a little sluggish fully buried, but should be ok most of the time.
on the fence. haha.
I loved this video, you’re hilarious.
‘I still don’t have the money’
I was crack in’ up, lol
I’m not sure anyone watching this video has the money,
They’d just go buy the lumber.
Great video man
Thanks Shane!
Looks therapeutic
Nice video, not a bunch of hype that so many people give on CZcams!
Okay yeah you're right a bigger song will always help you even though they're heavy they have the horsepower personally owned a Stihl 660 I and the standard chain does not rip worth a darn 4 Crosscut it work perfect.. Granberg makes a very good rip Shane I suggest you buy a couple and I don't think you'll go back during.you're ripping or slapping process to regular chain. noticed you having the Seesaw on walk your chainsaw in the cut didn't see any wedges try a couple of those and it will help. relieve the pressure on a chainsaw as you get into the cut.
Thanks Al! I guess I will have to break down and get a ripping chain. 👍 I use the wedges sometimes on the cuts if it seems like it’s bogging down. The weather hasn’t been great the last month or two so I’m itching to get back out and cut some more. -Robert
love the info, just wondering on how deep you pound those half rings in when securing the ladder for first cut? obviously not deeper than how deep your cut will be, but is 3/4 inch or so deep enough to keep the ladder from moving around?
Hey Jake. Depends a little on the tree. They usually go in probably 1.5- 2”. I don’t think 3/4 would be enough to hold especially in thick bark. When I was first experimenting with that, I went and got several sizes of u-bolts to try out. I took a grinder and shaved an angle into the threads so I could pound them in like a staple. The threads left act like a ring shank nail and stick into the wood very well. That first cut with the ladder should be thick enough to miss the u-bolts and get you down into good useable wood. Hope that helps. -Robert
well two things are super huge in doing any form of milling with a chainsaw one the Alaskan winch is a huge deal and a proper ripping chain well a few ripping chains. is all you need to go remote and build a cabin best tool to have with all your lumberjacking tools.... yea its long to cut but its super portable it gets the job done and it works... having a band saw mill way better but you cant take it with you. out to a site that is only accessible by quad. if you can get the winch it really up your game. overall fantastic video.
Thanks Johnny!
Get yourself the correct milling chain . The 30 deg. Chain does not cut it, no pun intended.
How interesting. Not that I will ever do this task, but interesting nonetheless. Thank you for sharing. Stay safe, dry and healthy.
Thanks Cheryl
Best Mill video EVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Aw thanks! Very kind of you. 😊 -Robert
wish i had one looks like fun
If you get a rip-cut skip-tooth or double skip chain your saw will act like a much more powerful saw. Also, whenever possible, remove the bark before milling. The bark does terrible things to a chain saw chain.
You can buy the longer 42 bars to extend
Milling chains and a good electric sharpening tool. Swap chains instead of sharpening while milling.
Thanks Trenton. -Robert
I'm sure you figured this out but those dogs come off easily if you ever need a couple more inches.
Iwould LOVE to be able to cut a long 3” slab from. A log with this, then I can make some nice Tables and desks…
A ripping chain saves the saw, less waste of wood and gives you a smooth cut . Add a hand winch to save your back.
10 degree angle on ripping chain, plus they are modified to provide speed ...( grandberg chains..)
Nice work brother..
Keep safe always to your wonderful work
With chainsaw...
..
Like my work again gdblesss
Thank you. Stay safe out there.
That was just "Phenomenal"
Sure you can cut faster it's all in your powerplant meaning if you are planing on sawing your Owen lumber you need a 100 plus cc swathe 088 still with 30inch bare and the chain sharpened correctly with a hand crank you would be surprised
Cut the biggest chunk out of your log with your chainsaw mill....then use a decent bandsaw/tablesaw to cut into smaller lumber. It will be a lot quicker if you use the correct chain!
Oh and look up a gravity feed set-up. Way less effort and a better cut.
How does that MS441 do with that 36” bar? I’ve been hesitant on getting that big of a bar for mine.
Hi Jason. It will run it, but not tons of power when it’s fully buried. It would also probably depend on what you are cutting. I am usually in fir and cedar. Loads of power at 24”, still does well at 32”, but at 36” it will do it, but it’s punching a bit above its weight class. But I’m not going to buy another saw at this point, so I just run it. Most of the time though, I run the 32” and am pretty happy at that length. -Robert
@@TheOregonTale Thank you, I’m wanting to get started on my own small project. I have two saws. A 441 and a 362c. I have been doing some homemade and it’s looking like a 36 will be the biggest I can go. I think I’m gonna pull the trigger and get it. Thank you for the help. Safe cutting!
Awesome. Best wishes and happy cutting. 😊
Milling Chain BIG difference on speed and chips size
Try put sawmill. In bush plane lol
How do you get your space adjustment to slide so easily? Mine is a bitch to adjust.
I loosen it just enough to slide but not so much it falls down, tap one side into place, finger tighten it, then bring other side up and finger tighten, back to first side and final tighten with wrench, then back and tighten with wrench. It can be a real finicky if it’s too loose. -Robert
Get alot more for the slabs than you would trying to get 2x out of it.
First, remove your felling dogs to gain more cutting surface. Second, get a milling chain. You'll get smoother cuts. Although it's a bit slower. Third, always stick with stihl. Gotta love 'em. I've run Husqvarna and stihl, actually still run both but stihl has the power to weight ratio beat
I got the holzfforma running good and clean for milling
Without scrolling through the comments to see what others have said, I would critique your video as follows:
You address the difference between a portable unit like the Granberg versus a full-on mill in terms of capital outlay, which of course, is a big consideration, but you fail to mention the HUGE difference in waste when using a chainsaw versus a bandsaw mill such as Woodmizer. Over a long-term situation, this tradeoff tends to very favorable offset the much higher cost of the Woodmizer et-al option, for those who want to really take a longer view into consideration. A chainsaw carves out a humongous kerf with each cut, and this tradeoff must be considered when a person is weighing the plusses/minuses. In certain applications, the portable mill works marvelously, but you shortchange the viewer by not allowing them to see these considerations.
You also are neglectful in only covering your particular mill with no other manufacturers to compare it to.
I just picked up a Zozen Alaskan sawmill. Way better quality made sawmill. Works great milled my first boards yesterday👍
Great review and spot on. We use the same set up but a bit bigger. It is hard work but like you said, nothing beats looking at the inside of a big log.
Thanks Swamp Sawyer.
Stay close to Jesus
Dude you need to get a ripping chain they cut twice as fast! Imagine how much wear and tear you are causing. Good luck!
are you kidding, that's at least a ms400 or 600, plenty of power.....reality is chainsaws are NOT meant to cut "with" the grain, period......they are going slow no matter what Unless you have soft wood......Real milling machines use Much thinner blades and are designed to cut with the grain.
take vidios,prepare brilliant the topic ,bring the tool to the forest doing by your self.I think your genetic of demigod
Lol. Thanks Wesly. Just a regular dude with a cell phone camera. Thank you. 👍 -Robert
REMOVE THE DOGS
Yes you can absolutely do that to gain a few inches if you need it.. -Robert
Milling chains and a good electric sharpening tool. Swap chains instead of sharpening while milling.