Alaskan Chainsaw Milling - Tips for First Time Users
Vložit
- čas přidán 13. 08. 2018
- Find all our Alaskan Mills and Chainsaw accessories at granberg.com
Learn from Mr. Erik Granberg, President of Granberg International the tips and tricks to getting the best results from your Alaskan Chainsaw Mill.
VIDEO RECAP
1. THREE important things to consider before milling. One, does your chainsaw have enough power? (see bar/power reference chart). Two, ripping chain is necessary! Three, a first cut system to assist in your first cut. (0:35)
2. Inspect log and debark. Check diameter of log vs the cutting width of mill. Is your mill going to make it through the cut? There may be a section that is too wide. This can be trimmed before milling. (2:00)
3. Mount Alaskan Mill onto bar. Adjust to fit bar. Avoid clamping down on the sprocket nose. Tighten all hardware. The clamping bolts for the bar and end bracket require 10-12 pounds of torque. Tighten evenly. All other carriage bolts use 8-10 pounds of tightening torque. Do not over tighten, this only weakens the bolts. (3:15)
4. Tool kit check. (11:07)
5. Safety Equipment. Chaps, gloves, boots, eye and ear protection are required! (11:51)
6. Make sure your wedges are handy! (12:20)
7. Best way to start your second cut. (13:17)
8. Wedging tips while milling. (14:18)
9. What to look, listen and feel for while milling. (14:54)
10. How to exit the cut. To keep the mill from dipping when exiting cut, put a little back pressure on upright handle and support the powerhead. (17:24)
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Visit us: www.granberg.com
Follow us on Instagram: / granberginternational
Follow us on Facebook: / granberginternational
Join in us in our Facebook group: / 309929076121237
The first cut levelling thing is what I wanted to see
see here czcams.com/video/PORgUhoclfY/video.html
Same
@@saturnslastring 😔🌷🌷7👏
There are great vids showing exactly that...
I just got mine the other day and I can’t watch this enough at the moment, thanks, I got the 24 inch mill package.
I made my first little live edge today...I have a small chainsaw, so I only did a 12 inch piece. So happy, and so nice being able to turn the logs at my house into something nice.
Great tips, good information, the wedges can be used also to scrape the front edge of mill with sawdust built up as you go. Great product, great demonstration
Just got mine today. Can’t wait to start.
You gained a lot of respect from me mentioning things other than the ez rail. I have an ezrail and I like it if I need to backpack to the tree. But I could see a 2x8 making fast work of a first cut.
Haven't used mine yet, but this video explained everything in great detail. Many tips that I am glad I saw. Thank you.
Great guide. Thank for sharing!
Excellent demo video 🎉
Excellent and necessary video. Thank you Sir!
Eric, I had no idea this is what you did for work back in the PVHS soccer days. This looks like a fun process, I always like getting the chainsaw out. Chuck T. Great video explaining the mill.
Great to see the family going strong on the mill. Cheers blaise
Thanks Blaise! We're grateful to have such a talented person on the Granberg team!
Great video just shows how much work it really is to saw a log. Could be a multiple day job on a big log.
Thanks I'll take a look at it
Good info.. thanks!
Going to try to talk my husband into buying me one!
Good job
Nice my boss..👍
Keep safe to your freehand mill 🙂
Excellent, have some mahogony and Old man pine and Totara I want to get into this week. All green so that's me thanks.
Good idea.it's one of many model upgrade chainshaw.bravo.
Pulley / winch works great. Put the brake on the chain before you exit the bar from the cut. Dont have that chain in motion when pickin up the mill on the exit. Ladder works great for safety purposes on every cut. Not just the first. Hanging the mill on the ladder rather than holding it on the start of the cut puts you in a less vulnerable position. Also allows a smoother cut especially if the winch is attached.
Wow!!!
Yep, the mill moves so much smoother and easier on the aluminium ladder compared to wood. It also makes the cut straighter, especially if doing more than 4-5 cuts.
Thats a very good procedure of making saw mill. I hope that thats equipment will be available here in the Philippines.
We have a dealer of our Granberg Alaskan Mills in South Korea, called Manpa Tools. Check them out:
Manpa Co., Ltd. & Manpa Woodcraft Academy
Phone: P. +82 10 9207 9212 / T.+82 31 676 9212
Thanks for the video - What Mill would you recommend for Husky 372xp w/24" bar?
This is clear and thorough, covers all the basics. I mill with a Stihl 051AV w 36" bar and a Stihl 090AV w 48" bar. You have to have power matched to the load (width of cut and density/hardness) of the log. I mostly mill Eastern White Pine and Red & White Oak for timbers 6" x6" - 12" x 16" up to 24' long. I also mill Black Locust for sills, posts and fence posts where rot resistance is important 4" x 6" - 6" x 8". I just bought a Cannon 72" sprocket nose bar for the Stihl 090AV to do some wide slabs. I also have the Granberg Mini Mill with the matching rail sections for edge rips after long wide rips. I need to get a bigger saw than my Stihl 020AV for that. Do everything you can to be efficient setting up the first rip. Save time by having the chocks, supports, wedges/spacers & mallet, peavy & cant hook, mason line, timberlok fasteners and drill/driver all ready, and able to use again and again. Have a clear work area w solid flat ground (as is practical). Use an axe and "spud bar" for bark removal in dirty gravely spots. Keep your chain real sharp. I use a winch at the far end of the log so I'm farthest away from noise and exhaust. Safety first!! I'd never waste my $ on a Chinese saw as someone suggested.
This covers all the basics?? They completely skip the most important and crucial step, the first cut
Nice review🙂
Glad you liked it
Great, just great 🧐
Thanks so much god tips
Great video! I'm looking forward to trying my hand a milling up some oak, though I don't have a thousand dollar Stihl chainsaw. I will try to make due with a Husqvarna 460 Rancher and just stick to logs that are 20 inches or less in diameter.
How did you go Alan? I've seen a few people successfully using that saw on here!
I'm curious too, I have mostly smaller logs and a Husqvarna 355 Rancher.
Get a holtzforma 660g. Cheap and lots of power for milling
Hi Alan, That size chainsaw works great with smaller logs around 20" and less like you said. We have a 'power & bar' chart on our website under FAQs to help folks figure out if they've got enough power. We recommend the minimum amount so folks don't need to have the most powerful saw right off the bat, even though we do suggest powering up if you can. As long as folks are using ripping chain and keeping it accurately sharpened, you can do a lot with a 60cc size chainsaw. Happy milling my friend!
@@granberginternational this is what I wanted to hear from you. I've got a 57 cc stihl and an 18 inch bar. The logs I'm going to mill are 8-16 inches. I've got ripping chains for it and now I'm looking for a system to mill the cherry. Twenty cherry trees had to be taken out due to disease. But we were able to save a lot of it to mill before it went bad.
Wow thus saftys is complete ly awesome it's protections ,but needed more extra care while doing the works you're absolutely correct .👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍😳🤩😎
Right on!
Nice!
Should do a video of the grandberg oiler😊😊😊😊😊
If the powerhead weighs 15 pounds could you put a 15 pound barbell weight on that opposite vertical post to counter the weight to have it saw straight and also would a winch help as well?
Looks easy once you have a log with a flat side. Be great to show how you got to that point.
How should I debark redwood? Is a log wizard the most effective way?
I find it easier to use the rails each cut. To help keep mill level at start and end.
Why would it be easier to do more work?
I have a husq 550 xp mark 2 would that work and what size bar should I use
Thank you for the helpful video. I guess the trees fall with a nice flat surface to start on :)
No, the kit comes with a 4" square of sandpaper and you just sand that one side flat.
@@alanduncan3710 better than that when the tree falls its ends up being flat underneath, so just roll the long over,voila!
Like your sawmill brackets awesome frame and having safty plates at end blad saw .like thus man you're the guys having creative ldeas.👀👀👀👀🤩🤩👍👍👍👍😎😳
Thanks 👍
How do I set the granberg Alaskan chainsaw mill to cut different thicknesses?
I recently bought & put together a chainsaw mill. My big question is when I've watched all sorts of "mill how-to" videos, they ALL seem to be ripping the slabs to 2 inches thick? Why? Even at 1 in thick slabs, shrinkage shouldn't go down 1/4", would it? Also, does it matter if the logs have sat for a year plus drying or should the slabs be cut "green"?
Great video and thanks for the extremely interesting & useful information!
Guy H
Great question! First, the thickness you choose depends on what you are making with your slab, whether it's shelves, fencing or tables. Usually folks go a little thicker when making slab tables. You can loose up to a 1/4" on each side either with shrinkage or warping (this may vary in the different wood species though). You will need to account for the warping that may happen in the drying process so we add an inch onto our cuts. Another thing to consider is that plain saw lumber is less stable than quarter sawn lumber which can mean a good amount of movement in the drying process. Lastly, cutting green is easier on you and the saw vs cutting dry, however, there will be less movement in your slabs that were cut more dry. If you're cutting something that's been down on the ground for a while make sure you're using Granberg ripping chain and get yourself a good sharpener ( like our G1012XT ;)
It would be cool if you guys modified the mill with flared out on off guides on both sides of the mill. Kinda an oval or diamond shape, this would give sevral inches of contact before the chain hits the wood. You could just use the rails system every cut but i feel this mod would make everyone happy.
that would help a lot -
however extended guide rails [correctly installed] can support the saw so the bar is even on the beginning and the end of the cut
as well as be a smooth, constant and level surface to guide the saw on the bars it is mounted to. - just a thought for the picky sawyer ;)
@@toknowlj i agree but the graveyard is where many good ideas went because people were too afraid to share them.
Learnt a lot. Surprised nothing on adjusting depth of cut. I like to put 2 pieces of wood between the rails and saw the thickness I want and lower deck onto those then tighten up. Guarantees thickness and parallel.
Nice video! I thought it was Clint Eastwood there!
That's better than reading the instructions that comes with it
Great
Was wondering what size bar i would need to max 56" rails out? Btw doing a great job,very happy with my mill an all your products ive bought!
Thank you! Normally, we'd say a 56" bar for the 56" rails however, that will only give you 50-52" of actual cutting width. Our tech says you can get away with using a 60" bar which may give you anywhere from 52-53" of cutting width. Hope that helps!
9:49. Thats the mistake i did today when I used the Mill for the first time. I cut the branches of the tree, i fell it, i made parts to fire wood and after a few hours being allready tired I didnt put enough tork on the screws so the thing slid and hit the running chain, wich lead to a broken chain tensioner....
Is that inch pounds or foot pounds of torque?
Wish you would show how to set the hithe
I’ll be honest- I’ve been all over the board on this idea, sawing my own timber. This looks really slow and dangerous, and when you put up the $1500 for a 90 saw, your machine- it LOOKS like an advertisement for a low end bandsaw mill. However, after REALLY LOOKING into the endless Mickey Mouse of getting ANY bandsaw mill to cut straight- you are winning me back over. The flowering elbow guy is your second best salesman. I have 40 acres of timber in my land; I’ll be cutting for my own needs; im retired; but I want good lumber. I can buy all the junking $1-2/bdft lousy bandsaw cut wood I need, I’d be upside down on even a mid-range bandsaw for many years (I may not live that long). But I have some specialty wood that no one with a bandsaw would come to saw and I would be stupid to dump $8K into buying a bandsaw that would eat up WAY more of my money and time than pushing a saw through a log would. I get it now.
Dalan, how did it go? I've just purchased a Husq 395x, this mill, and am waiting patiently for it to arrive. I'm a woodworker by trade, have been turning for the better part of a decade. I've dried wet planks before... even milled some by eye here and there, but this'll be my first go into milling a 20' by 28" cherry in a few days. Any advice is welcome. :)
First run this morning. Hotter than hell out. I got it set up and my modified aluminum ladder and assorted tools, blocks, screws, drills, level, and wedges and headed out to a 4' red oak crotch about 33" in diameter at the Y end. The end had about a 4-5" knob, that in retrospect i would likely saw off next time- too much ladder leveling. The xp396 42" bar w/ the Granberg 36 went through the first cut like butter. I have a regular 30 degree pitch chain not a milling chain. Took the rig off and made the 1st board cut at 3"- again- pretty happy with it. It did not take as many minutes as i thought. There were certainly a few chain marks but Im cleaning up the slabs anyway. I notice that the new chain had stretched or loosened up and i stopped it to tighten it. 1st kick in the nuts- you have to take the entire mill off to tighten the chain on an xp395! Pisser. Those 2 cuts used about 2/3tank of gas. I didnt really have enough wedges for even a 4' log. The starting cut against the log end, sans the ladder, was very unsteady with just me as an operator. Im not sure that a single operator can handle the rig and make good cuts safely. Possibly a large wood block to help rest the rig end on may help. I rarely have help. I noticed the Belko guys always use a ladder for all cuts. I may go to a jig for the cuts of steel plates with 2" notches and use 2" square aluminum tube instead of a ladder and then just use the tubes screwed to the lumber face for subsequent cuts. Ill have to noodle that around for a white. But the entire rig is FAR to heavy and cumbersome to by yourself without hurting your shoulder and back. I was more worn out and frustrated by the single lumber face start than everything i did all day. My left shoulder is a little ouchy as i type this. Advil Liqui-caps for me tonight. BUT,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,I had a ball doing this! Cant wait to get the kinks out and get a good steady consistent process. I cant even dimmly imagine doing this without AT LEAST 94cc power. My only other consideration at this point is to stay with a regular firewood chain or go to the Granberg milling chain. Unless this chain dulls far too quickly Ill stay with it. Oregon 135 links $60 and I can sharpen it on my grinder. A Granberg milling chain is $235, has a 6 month wait time and I would have to either hand file it or buy the Granberg electric filer. If you dont have at least 3 chains in your box you wont get much done in a day as near as I can tell. The quality of the cuts was fine for my purposes. Good luck with your cherry- IT WILL BE A BEAUTE. This is a VERY heavy and cumbersome object to balance and its all teeth- so be careful. I dont have a lot of hope invested in the red oak. I might not try a cherry i treasure for my first cut. If its straight and smooth- you will have an easier time setting up the ladder device. I added a piece of wide aluminium angle (bolted it to the ladder frame) and drilled a few holes for lag screws in the end- it made the process SO much easier than that janky way of balancing the ladder of some sort of pegs and shims. Also, I made sure that The lag screws I put through the ladder rung holes would not go any deeper than the width of the angle-that way i didnt have to worry about hitting the screws with the saw. I just set the intial cut depth a little deeper than the bottom of the angle.(in my case about 4") I was cutting a little down grade of a slight hill which I feel made it easier. But i wouldnt recommend that nor will i attempt that again. This thing cuts SO smooth that the top board slid right over the bar as the bar came out of the end of the log. If you have a second pair of hands i recommend getting started on the lumber cuts with help. I had been so concerned about the 395 starting without pulling my arm out- no such thing. After pushing the blue button it starts easier and with less pulls than my 353. I wont be drop starting it but i wouldnt expect to. Be VERY CAREFUL and you will really enjoy this.
Pay the extra money an save your back
How do you change the depth of the cut from 1 inch to 2 inch to 3inch to 4inch to 6 inch to 8 inch?
I noticed the bucking spikes are taken off of the saw. I take it this is necessary for milling.
Looking for advice i have a 30in round tree in my backyard already head cut down any recommendations on what kind of chainsaw and mill a beginner should get
I would recommend getting our G778-36 Mill with a 36" bar. You can loose anywhere from 4-6 inches when mounting the Mill to the bar. Anywhere from a 70-90cc size saw is what I would recommend. Email me at lindsey@granberg.com and I can send you some more information!
Makita 7900 is the best bang for the buck. A bit cheaper than any 80cc Husky, Stihl, or even Echo, excellent saw.
What size saw would you need for proper hardwood like ironbark?
It depends on the actual diameter of the material to be milled, but in general, as big as you can get., Id say for something like that you want at least 90cc, 120 would be better. Most critical for speed and efficiency is a properly sharpened Granberg ripping chain.
Need one of those granberg shirts. Snapped a u bolt yesterday that you use to raise and lower the cutting depth when making 2 inch boards or 7 inch boards etc. No idea how it snapped, but it did. Went to the local hardware store and got a couple to replace the broken one. Must have put too much might. Anyways I need a granberg shirt bad.
Call us up and we'll get you out a new one under warranty! 925-380-9400
Can I mill pine lumber with my MS 180??? Softer wood, but the saw is only about 31 CCs.
being softwood you might be ok. your best friend will be a super sharp chain
The guys black gloves blended into his shirt and I thought he didn't have hands 🤣🤣🤣
Good job. Available in Aus?
They are! We have a distributor/dealer in Australia and New Zealand! If you head to our website -> granberg.com/distributors/ You can find their info!
my friend good evening this is your patent or have you bought it.I am from florina Greece 🇬🇷 Western Macedonia 👍 perfect
We own the patent and trademark to the Mill and name. My father, Elof Granberg originated the very first Chainsaw Mill of its kind. Thank you for watching!
What is the cutting kerf of a typical chainsaw ripping chain ? Is the thickness of the slab cut by the mill adjustable ?
It's about the width of the Ripping chain being used. So larger the pitch, larger the kerf. The thickness is determined by the measuring system on our height post.
Add a website to your video descriptions please and thank you.
Will do
Y'all should include a copy of this video with every mill.
Great idea! It is on every Alaskan Mill product page on our website :)
There is no structure to effectively engage "at parallel" to the top of the previously cut surface. What happens when you introduce/bury the chain at the wrong angle? Would it be a challenge to add rollers to this structure? I can only imagine the "DO NOT" section of the user manual. Otherwise, anyone can rig this up pretty easily sans your product and marketing.
Didn’t mention how to adjust depth on Mill to size slab?
Any feedback on chainsaw milling hardwoods?
Folks chainsaw mill hardwoods all the time, it just requires a powerful enough saw and some Granberg Ripping chain (or skip rip or hyper skip). Email us at info@granberg.com and we can send you our bar and power chart which outlines what size saw you need for what size bar and mill you have.
Looks like you start from a level cut, how do you get a level cut on this log?
Check out our other video on our First Cut Rails System: the Ez:Rails !
czcams.com/video/PORgUhoclfY/video.html
I wish you had started at the very first cut. I wanted to see how you set that up.
The video is only 18 minutes long ‘ it takes a lot of time to set up for the first cut ‘ what with either ladders ‘ steel rails ‘ or twin boards ‘ there is a crazy amount of setting up ‘ and that’s even on a straight log let alone a not so straight log ‘ imagine trying to cut a square beam with this system ‘ an enormous amount of setting ‘ an the cost of a big saw plus the frame to mount it ‘ there has to be a better system than this ‘ this seems very cumbersome to me and dangerous and the exhaust fumes and saw dust in your lungs ‘
@@martinbyrne6643 Do you want a portable sawmill for no less than $4000 or a $200 AK Sawmill?
@@CGPhotos Either way you need to start with a level cut, how do you get there.
@@ppumpkin3282 You get there by using rails like this: www.amazon.com/Guide-System-Crossbar-Works-Chainsaw/dp/B07MPDVFHB/ref=psdc_9425917011_t1_B06XH6VDWP?th=1
No kidding. That’s the hard part. That’s what I came to see. Waste of time...
Can you adjust this mill to a smaller bar? I don’t need to cut logs that large. I have a 16” bar.
Our G777 Alaskan Small Log Mill would be perfect for a 16" bar. *One thing to note: make sure it is not a laminate bar. If it is, the heat from the saw can damage the bar causing the mill to slide around. You can find this out by googling the serial number on the bar. Or call us up and we can help you determine if its laminate. We sell small, steel fabricated GB bars on our website granberg.com
Here is the G777 Alaskan Small Log Mill : granberg.com/product/g777-alaskan-small-log-mill/
Here are our GB single end bars: granberg.com/product-category/alaskan-mill/bars-chain/gb-single-end-bars/
Good evening Mr. Cranberg, we who are from Greece Western Macedonia Greece Florina where we will find it in the market besides eBay and amazon we can somewhere else. I have a 462 stihl chainsaw and which one can I get?🇬🇷👌
Hello! We would recommend no bigger than our 30" Alaskan Mill. Part number G778-30. You can buy direct from us at granberg.com/product-category/alaskan-mill/alaskan-mkiv/?v=7516fd43adaa
It would have been useful if the video had included setting up and making that first leveling cut
Yes tiktok I'm sorry if I got a little carried away I apologize and I'll watch it from now on thank you
What would be the best mill for a Stihl 661 with a 36 inch bar?
Our G778-36 Alaskan Mill would be a perfect fit. It fits 36" bars and less. A couple tips is to get some ripping chain and first cut system. Let us know if you have any questions!
@@granberginternational that would be capable of making 32 inch wide slabs or boards, correct?
@@TheWoodsmanMilling That is correct. When mounting our Mills you loose 4 inches.
@@granberginternational alrighty! Thank y'all.
Can you damage your saw by miling?
We've never damaged one of our saws milling. You need to make sure your saw is the right size for the job. We have a bar and power chart that is helpful for that. Also, keeping up good chainsaw maintenance is important as well. We have another video on that.
grwat info
I want to buy this... BUT what is the Model Number of the Stil Chainsaw
We are using a Stihl 661. That has a 90cc size powerhead and is good for cutting up to 56"
how much price sir
I want this chainsw
Hay❤❤
What is the recommended mill for
A Stihl MS 880 with 42" bar I recently purchased?
I would recommend our 48" Alaskan Mill (part number G778-48). You will loose a couple inches on either side when mounting, so you'll get about 38" of cutting width. Here is a link to the page granberg.com/product-category/alaskan-mill/alaskan-mkiv/ !
Bert here where can I buy alaskin chainsaw mill
Here ya go! Let us know if you have any questions. granberg.com/product-category/alaskan-mill/alaskan-mkiv/
Why are Granberg mills 3 times the cost to buy?Knock offs are basically the same same mill and build materials.
Perfect fit for my Echo CS-370, and the chain cuts very well czcams.com/users/postUgkxBd8qUztQUCL8Rm1-aIig5ViBT2E_kO_6 . I had been using a Stihl chain that I had sharpened several times (sometimes at a shop, sometimes with my own electric chain sharpener), and there's no comparison -- the new chain cuts much better and holds its edge longer. We'll see how the new chain holds up when it needs sharpening, but for now I'm happy.
What about a 64cc saw?
A 64cc saw is good up until 30" and then we recommend more power. We have a power/bar reference chart. Here is the link : granberg.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/BAR-CHART-GRAPH.pdf
판매 합니까
that looks way tighter then 13 ft/lbs
looks like about 50 ft/lbs to me haha
Agree, looked like around 25-30lbs or enough to strip a sparkplug hole in an aluminum head (mistake I made around age 7 on my mini-bike :-( Secondary lesson learned was heli-coils along with not being able to ride for a couple days.
definitely more than the 1-15 foot pounds he said lol
yup
@@adamwaldroup good thing their grade 5 bolts :)
We want easy rails. We live in Ontario. We bought a mill from alberta. But have nothing to start the first cut.
Hi John! We have a dealer in Ontario who sells the EZ rail to make your first cut.
The company name is Atlas Machinery Supply. Check it out!
Why would you NOT show the first cut? It's by far the most important cut and requires the most attention and instruction
Left out adjusting the height of the cut, why?
bueno
Putting some saw dust bags would help being less dusty :-)
How to do that?
What r u running for mix. 40:1?
50:1 two stroke oil mix (stihl Hp ultra)
Notice how he's using a socket wrench to put it together. A scrench is just a pain in the rear.
It is handy when I need to tighten my chain.
Well and you're all tightening these down and not using a torque wrench just remember it's just as tight right before the boat breaks as it is afterwards!
I don't undestend you
@@gilgarcia2499 I think he meant bolt, not boat.
This looks way slower and more setup than that 25 buck one im seeing that runs along a 2x6
If its running along a 2x6 than its most likely our Granberg Edging Mill ( used to be called Granberg Mini Mill) It is for vertical cutting, and making dimensional lumber but can also be used to make lumber instead of our Alaskan Mill. Also, if its $25 than its most likely made in china and is a knockoff of our product.
I've put the saw in the mill upside down twice now. I know ;) I know ;) I am why they need to say it :)
german tourqe it....goodntite
Skip to 13:54 that's when they start cutting
Lol
Audio guys, Audio!
This guy recommends...
I have a Woodmizer band mill. Much better than a Grandberg!
Looking at the sawdust, that chain needs to be sharpened.
That might not be the whole truth. They use ripping chain where tooth are smaller and filed to less aggressive angle. This makes the chain "cut less at a time" which eventually gives you smoother cutting surface, might go even faster and gives your engine more lifetime with less load. So the dust is really dust and not chips. This is the way it should be and the outcome is much better than with cutting chain. -Tommi
Sahanpuru is right! We have a video on ripping chain vs cross cut chain where we explain the difference of the cutter angles and how it reacts with the grain. When milling through logs with ripping chain, you will get a more 'sawdust' like ( actually looks like grains of sand) texture.
Too bad you didn't show how to make the first cut. Newbies don't start with a log half cut.
great video! Now take that saw and cut down those monstrosities behind you asap before I have an aneurism!!!!
Do you mean the palm trees? lol
That’s great, except you need to show how you start the log. Start with the round log.