The Cheapest BIG 3D Printer Out There - Is It Any Good? (Longer LK5 Pro Review)
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- čas přidán 23. 08. 2021
- The Longer LK5 Pro is a huge 3D printer loaded with features, but it costs less than all the competition. Is it too good to be true? #3dprinting #longer #3dprinter Check out their site for amazing deals! •USE CODE LK5PRO$30 FOR $30 OFF the LK5 Pro Printer!!•
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Needing something larger simple and self-sustained is what I’m looking for. On a farm there are common wear parts that are not expensive but take time to get..especially with the supply chain nearly non-functional-it can take 6 months to get a 3/5.75 nylon bushing for my 45 year old seeder!…that’s where a 3D printer would be handy. For a first time buyer I’m hoping this is the printer that will work.
You should be fine with this one. Just take your time to learn it.
Nylon is hard to print you would need a new hotend and you would need to upgrade the bed and you need a filament warmers because nylon opsorbs a lot of water.
@@metalmangamer you can't be sure of those things.
@@lloydrmc
Yes he can. Nylon is notoriously one of the most difficult filaments to use.
Sovol SV03 mops this one
yeah! this video inspired me to buy my second 3d printer! ive had my first one for 3 years originally and have just been needing a larger printer! so ive been looking a while and i havent wanted to spend a ton so ive had a look at this! it looks amazing in my opinion! and works great! but i have realised on longer prints its more prone to later shift
Printing in the middle of the bed on a large format printer doesent give a true evaluation of the printing capabilities of this printer, I would like to see all reviews show an attempt to print a 1mm deep sheet of plastic covering the whole of the bed to show the full print capabilities after all the reason you would buy a printer with a large bed is to print parts with a large bottom part, its no use having a massive bed if its so warped that you cant print on it, and if your aluminium bed is rolled and not cast its a pretty good bet its going to be warped, of course there are the odd exeptions but in my experience large beds need ABL, some have FW that enables manual mesh levelling but with a large bed this is a pain
That's a great suggestion. You can see around 8:56 that I'm printing a large print that takes up most of the bed and it worked out great but I like the idea of doing a large flat bottomed print that takes up pretty much the entire bed to see if any given printer can handle that. Could even just be a big square bin.
@@colinrobinson9858 I haven’t yet printed a full bed print because I’ve been testing several other printers lately so the full size stormtrooper helmet is the biggest print I’ve done but it came out impressively well.
Anycubic predator for the win!
@@The3DPrintingZone do you have to level it for each print?
You don’t have to level for each print. Typically you’ll level it once and then not have to for quite a few prints. It will only need to be leveled again if there’s an issue of some sort.
I'm looking to dip my toes into 3D printing, and always had the old notion that printers were expensive and could only do small things. Came across this review by accident and my mind is blown. Might have to ask for one of these for Christmas :D
Nice to see longer is finding a niche elsewhere in the hobby. I only knew them for the Longer Orange, which was one of the big options at the very start of the home resin printing boom back in early 2020. After that first offering, they kinda fell off the map and left the area dominated by Elegoo, Anycubic, and Phrozen.
Valuable info. I will consider getting the LK5.
Thank you!
the only other thing i wish it had is a multi filament head, you can only print in one color at a time but other then that it looks like a great printer
Sometimes a lower temp also works for stringing, I had a lot at 200°C but 190° solved a lot of the stringing, but that is me, you will have to find what temps work for you
Man, your review was the drop to overflow. Now I ordered it. :) Thanks for the coupon code ;)
Just sat in front of this gentleman at Church yesterday 😄. Love your thorough reviews.
Thanks so much, Adam! I'l probably see you there again today :)
Thank you for the lovely review!
Just bought the Creality Cr-10 V3 as my first 3D printer (new to 3D printing but definitely not to CNC and g-code after making a mini CNC mill). With 130 discount it comes in at 389 and has dual Z-axes, direct feed print head and looks as if it uses the same basic construction as in your review, but heavier duty, has the same print volume, and does come with decent feet and cutters 🙂. Seperate power and control box with mono screen. Don't know if you've reviewed this or not but the only flaw I have found is a slightly dished glass bed.
You are new to printing so you might not be aware, with dual z-axis lead screws you need to pay attention to make sure the Gantry does not start walking higher on one side. The gantries tend to become out of sync with a dual Z axis lead screw assembly. Just some food for thought. Welcome to the world of printing, creality was my first printer as well. I've been running an Ender 3v1 for about 2 years and finally upgraded it to a new hot end. The creality machines tend to be reliable as far as I've been able to tell but I've had other machines already die on me that took way less abuse! When I say abuse I mean I kind of throw my V1 around every once in awhile when I'm transferring from one area to another or it's in the back of the truck sitting on the seat getting thrown around.
@@SteveSiegelin I first had to buy one replacement Z-axis stepper as the one nearest the control interface was bent on arrival. Creality didn't even respond to my emails (including videos) so I just paid £20 for replacement rather than send the whole machine back (which is what their customer service deserved!). Been running fine since and no noticeable tramming errors on Z-axis, although I always run a BLTouch calibration cycle before each print so that would negate one Z stepper being out of sync by a step or more.
I might consider this one. The sale is over at the fantastic price Nils told us about but it's still on sale from $390 down to $330.
Oh, and the glass bed is coated in ceramic. It says that on their site.
I love glass beds. It's all I use, but I also use Layerneer, which is awesome, and their support is great, too. I used Magigoo, which is good, but they only recommend it for a couple of filament types, plus it spoils after a few months. Layerneer never goes bad and covers every filament I'll ever use, and then some.
Back to Nils... This is a great review. The shortcomings this printer has can all be resolved with self-printed solutions. It seems to me like an ideal printer for poor folks who want to go big...
Thanks for the review, I am new to printing and want to start right away, I purchased a longer orange 10, but didn't realize the work needed for a resin printer, still a great deal at $89 used from factory with warranty, after watching your review I purchased the LK5 pro again used factory $196, for the price I dont expect much, but appreciate the honest review
How's it going 2 months later?
How did you get such option as for buying "used from factory"? Sound interesting
Thank you for taking time to film, edit and post this video.
The only question I would have is what type of filament can this use, can't seem to find it anywhere?
Please make a video on your knowledge and experience of troubleshooting the settings and whatnot with this thing. I've got one and have had to tighten eccentric nuts, relevel constantly, and it seems to run itno some troubles.
Excellent review! I just went ahead and bought one after watching, really excited to get my feet wet with 3d printing and this seems like the perfect one for me. I was looking for something large format but still light on the wallet, but also does decent prints. You seem pretty happy with the results, so hopefully I should be fine as a noob. Cheers!
Good luck with that. The problem I have had is simply, out of the box it works great for about a week or 2, that's when all of the headaches start. All of a sudden, the prints start not coming out the way they should. Trying to figure out what went wrong is a very, very tedious task. You will be pulling your hair out trying to figure it out. And, when you go to the reddits for help, there are a thousand different answers you will get for solving problems. Most of which I found out weren't really helpful at all.
Most were "All you need to do is UPGRADE to this or that". Which, also, in my case, didn't help at all. These machines are just so damn picky on what they need in order to operate continuously. I sure hope you don't mind tinkering, because that is where your life is going. The answer to this is "That's most of the fun about 3D printing, fixing things instead of printing"
Just keep in mind that this guy is getting paid for this review. His "Dislikes" are mostly aesthetic and not really informative.
@@paulreeder5241 Definitely a bought review, he doesn't even mention the single Z axis which for a printer this size is usually a bad idea and definitely something the competing printers of this size and price do usually have.
Besides that, you had those issues with this printer? Because more 'mainstream' printers (Ender 3...) work out of the box and will continue to work fine for months before requiring a bed level (2 minutes) and a year or so before requiring nozzle and PTFE tube replacement (30 minutes), if you require regular maintenance just to keep it working there's something very wrong with the printer.
I'm new to the channel and the whole 3d thing, but it is possible to make a coloured action figure by 3d printing? I've only seen ones with one colour done so I don't know if this is possible.
New sub! You explain things very well and made sure people knew the good and bad things about the 3d printer. Thank you for this!
I'm going to get this one, looks like a great first 3D printer, for a great price.
great 😃👍 review.
Vary informative.
Great and informative video! For the price, this is a good deal.
Great video with so much useful information!
I was looking into getting one of those 3D printers for reviewing on my channel and for making parts for my DJI Mavic Mini. Great review and very informative.
Awesome! I'd love to hear if you end up doing that. I fly my DJI quite often.
@@The3DPrintingZone
Lol.. I love flying mine too but I usually have my grandson do all my video work/flying the drone. I still play around with it though and man I love these little drones and the video quality is outstanding for what they cost.
Great review!
I was just looking at this printer as a potential candidate for larger prototyping projects
Sunlu S8. Same build volume with duel lead screws for 260 as of today. I paid less then 200 for mine in early 2020 Not comparing it to this but a solid printer for the money!
Can’t wait to see the video about the easy threed printer line of printers
Nice video, cool printer, and I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one that gets that "seam" section on the left side of benchy. I thought it was something on my 2 printers that I was doing wrong, I have an ender 3 and a voxelab aquila, and both get the seam, but otherwise benchy comes out flawless. Do you have a link to your temp gun also?
If you use Cura, you can choose where you want the seam to be. (Use sharpest corner) Probably available as an option in other slicers too. You should go through all the settings.
5:43 280 degrees Celsius in case anyone was wondering. I knew what you meant when you said it. Thanks for review
Since I did my research this machine is my absolute favorite with the most friendly interface I’ve used on a printer and ever since I got an enclosure I’ve been printing at 250 mm/s no problem in abs
what is the max speed you think this printer could do with pla?
What is better flexi-filament or polymer resin?
The Maual and some assembly videos are on the SD card that comes with the printer.
Good video. Can you recommend what sort of plastic to use for part on motorcycle that would be exposed to uv and not brittle but more flexible .
Thanks
Well I know the printer I’m going to get when I have the money. Thanks for the video
subbed on first video, well done
Looks comparable to the neptune 2 in terms of how pre assembled it is and how much documentation you get.
I like the honest review. On a side note where did you get those digital calipers. I've been looking everywhere for a bigger set
They're not that cheap but I love having the extra capacity. geni.us/PC4W60
I have 2 of these, I put quiet ender 3 boards and flawless! Put a bigger motor on the y axis.
Hello, really wonderful and very convincing video you have. How is the technical support for the printer, by the manufacturer in case there is a problem? What would be your advice in getting a 'reel' (filament)? What size / color reel would really work? Thanks.
The Benchy has heavy ghosting next to the holes, too. I wonder where it comes from.
This is my first and currently only printer and I can say it's definitely quite reliable and a nice machine considering it's had to deal with all of my learning 🤣 I originally did try to print with PETG however ran into so many issues with clogging, globbing, stringing, etc to the point where the hot end temp sensor got pulled out accidentally so I replaced the hot end and swapped to PLA and had little to no issues with prints. The PETG issues are most likely due to my lack of skill with 3D printing though
Have you tried PETG again since? Anything learned you'd like to share?
@@Airbag888 Haven't tried it since. Like I said I'm sure most of my issues were just lack of skill with 3D printing
@@dakotareynolds3049 So basically this is to this day still a great buy huh.
@@Airbag888 I'd say so
@@dakotareynolds3049 lol not quiiiite as convinced as I would've hoped haha.. anything you'd do different or recommend?
I have had the Longer Lk4 for the past 4 years and am finally looking at getting another 3d printer, and this video has sealed the deal for me getting the Longer Lk5 pro. My Longer Lk 4 has been great and I even modded it to have direct drive extrusion and dual drive screws, so I figured I would stick with the Longer brand 3d printers.
Liked and Subscribed because this review.
Interested to know how this compares to the Ender 5 Plus, both similar size, ED5 comes with BL touch. Right now in the UK the LK5 is about £320 and the Ender5Plus is £380 so not a huge amount in it.
I bought one of these and i didn't realize the plastic filiment guide and filiment switch on the guide was gonna fail in 2 weeks from constantly printing glow in the dark pla+ thankfully there are metal options to replace those parts apparently
Hey there, I am new at this can you tell me What other things I need to buy other than the printer? -Thanks Mary
looks like a decent printer I think I might have to pick one up toss up between this and cr10. I have several e3pros but want something that can print bigger. one of my first printers yrs ago was a og tevo tarantula.
This video sold me on this printer. I am a beginner and I now have one and have gone through two of the test prints included and am now printing a custom file that I have designed and I am wondering, "Why is it beeping as it moves along in the print job?" Any way to silence this?
Thanks for the great review and I'm having a lot of fun. I thrive on frustration, it seems. Ha!!!
Really nice. You got me tempted. Looks like a really short Bowden setup. How is it for printing TPU? I also do some PETG on my current Ender 5. Need a larger print area lately for me though. As for leveling I would go with TH3D's solid bed mounts and their EZABL auto leveling sensor. I have that on my Ender 5 and it's beautiful. Do you think this might benefit from a Direct Drive mod, or maybe liner rails? Thanks for the interesting review.
Do you think this might Benefit with a Direct Drive Set-up? I like the Micro Swiss.
Thanks for watching. I ran some TPU through there for a couple of prints with no issues and the connections seemed tighter than on other printers I've used but a direct drive is often a better setup, especially if you have a stable gantry like this one. If you're going to be doing more flexible filaments, then yes - perhaps a Micro Swiss or other direct drive. I don't tend to print much with TPU or NinjaFlex so I don't worry too much about it myself.
@@The3DPrintingZone I'm reading reviews on Amazon. Normally I don't pay much attention for a variety of reasons but one caught my eye. Have you heard that the To get a standard USB cable to work the +5V power pin must be disabled or you risk ruining the printer controller" Or so the reviewer says. He was supposedly trying to install a BL touch
@@ChinaAl I haven't heard that, no, and I haven't tried installing a BL Touch yet. I'd be curious if others are experiencing the same thing or not since this is the first I've heard of that.
@@The3DPrintingZone I went to Amazon and searched for this printer. Then I started at the top and checked all the star ratings starting with 1 star and that's where I found this USB report.
I lean more to TH3D's EZABl sensor and instead of the glass I use Wham Bam's magnetic PEX print surface. Never had any problems with parts sticking or removing. TH3D also has solid bed mounts. No need for the springs with their auto leveling sensor. The mounts are for my ender 5. not sure if they work on the LK5. I assume they would
I've never had one but I've found it's time to get into it. Just the amount of things I've seen you can do makes it something I want to do. That being said I'm just so overwhelmed with the options to buy a printer. Ender , Creality ..etc.. where to start? What to get ?
That’s a pretty common feeling, Patrick - and certainly understandable. It really can be overwhelming. I recommend sticking with something that is commonly supported and well established, as long as it meets your needs. Creality and Prusa, for example are affordable and highly trusted companies with some great options. If you were to try a printer like this one, I can tell you from experience that it’s a solid printer that you’d do well with but it won’t have as much of a support system as these bigger brands. Let me know if I can help you in any way.
@@The3DPrintingZone I certainly like the build volume of it. I'm thinking of I want to print larger things I might be out of luck if u want with something like an ender 3 v2
Is this a good first printer and does it work well
is the gold tester print available anywhere (with the bridges, overhangs etc)?
also- is an upgrade of a 2nd z screw possible?
Great video btw
Thanks for watching. The printer test is www.thingiverse.com/thing:2806295 and I'm not sure about the second z-axis lead screw. I suspect you could add one without too much work but I haven't looked into it just yet.
@@The3DPrintingZone 404 on the printer test link
@@CapuletPoeChannel Try it now. It was including the closing parenthesis before.
I print one piece wearable helmets on my cr-10s5. I would waste more filament on support than i used on the masks. I experimented and came up with a solution.
Figure out at which line in your helmet slicer that supports become necessary. Write that number down.
Design a cup that is close to the same diameter as the helmet (at the internal point supports are needed).
Print the cup to the line height you wrote down.
At that point in the helmet slicer put a "change filament command". Also start support at that line height.
If your slice does not allow. Make a solid layer 2 lines thick at that height in the helmet stl. print helmet to that height.
when the printer pauses. Insert cup flat side up into the center of the helmet print and use napkins to fill in gaps.
Keep napkins below highest print level. Resume printing.
Keep a heated hot glue gun at the ready for quick repairs.
It may take a few layers to perfect itself.
I save nearly 2 rolls of filament and about 3 days of print time doing this.
Try it on a small couple hour print to master the technique
That's a pretty sweet technique! That way you get the benefits of printing right side up without the downsides of wasted support filament. I often print pieces upside down and at the optimal angle to avoid supports but it does create the need for extra sanding/work on the top of the helmet typically. Great idea!
Hi.
I want to buy this printer and at the same time a Kit to duplicate the Z axis.
I have seen several but I don´t know the length of the vertical screw of the Z axis that comes with the machine itself.
Could you tell me what the measurement is to buy the correct one?
Thank you so much. ☺
Would you recommend this over a Ender 3 S1? I got the S1 on sale for $280, but considering this LK5 for the larger print size. The S1 plus would be preferable, but its too costly at $550. Thank you.
this video is now 2 years old and I find myself in need of a large format printer... I have an x1c and am tired of bed slingers but the price is amazing on this so is this a good buy in 2023 or a pass?
the Anet A8 plus I got last year for $180 USD its a 300x300x350 they are around $230 nowadays.
you can even get the Anet ET5X 300x300x400 fro $240 right now, I just bought one a week ago
Nice! Considering it costs as much as an Elegoo Neptune 2s I might go with this instead of another Neptune. Would be nice to have something big enough for those large prints.
Yeah, it's a pretty great deal, especially if you can get it on sale. I still use mine all the time even though I have a bunch of other printers.
Have you opened up the electronics enclosure and inspected the mainboard this printer is using?
wait can you print the mando helmet without the middle supports?
I have an aging Creality CR-10 and was always dissatisfied with the short cables from the controller to the printer. I have an enclosure and would like to keep the controller OUTSIDE of the enclosure. I was not able to do that with my CR-10. I can't seem to find pics of how this is set up to see if I would be able to relocate the control box outside my enclosure. I print Polycarbonate and ABS so I plan to keep my enclosure very toasty.
I git my artillery sidewinder x1 witha few upgrades for 329 so idk of this would be worth it
Did you mention auto leveling? If it comes stock or do I need to upgrade.
Great review, I've had mine for about 2 months now and finally getting comfortable. Unfortunately it suddenly stopped powering on. Checked connections, fuse, and confirmed power from the outlet. Their support seems little to non existent
Any update on support?
@@LeftyPencil Never received any support so I started doing my own testing and probing the power supply to see if I could isolate the issue. When I probed the chassis of the power supply the system suddenly reboot and I have not had any issues since
when he was showing the whistle my brain was blowing up i was like JUST BLOW THE Whistle PLEASSS!!!!!
Never 3D before but looking into getting started...What about how strong it makes it i would be using it for RC planes and rc cars..Would this work for that
I have one other suggestion, for a 'rule' for unboxings and reviews.. that you assemble the printer (and first print) WITH JUST THE TOOLS/PARTS THEY SEND YOU. I have suggested this to other reviewers (because my first printer required a trip to the hardware store for tools).... The ONLY exception I would say would be if the printer does NOT come with any filament (which I would say is not right, AND that if they have any sample prints that the filament they DO INCLUDE be enough to finish the sample print).
Sounds fair. I actually haven’t had many (any?) printers that I couldn’t assemble with only what is included, which goes for this one too. I do sometimes use my electric screwdriver because it’s faster than using the included Allen keys but that’s just to save time. And I agree - they should all come with at least some filament to start with.
@@The3DPrintingZone Thank you for the response. When I was a kid the three most TERRIFYING words for a parent to hear were "some assembly required"! What tools would you need, would all the things be in there (dad bought a bicycle that did not have INNER TUBES for the tires one time!) to make it run. His solution after we got to about 10 yers old was to hand you the box and tell you the tool-room (he kept it under lock and key) was unlocked, go to town....
I am picking up a printer for my birthday in November. The question is this one or a creality ender 3 max?
I have a Longer LK4. It’s similar in size to the Ender 3 with a single lead screw, and I’m having serious Z-banding issues and x-axis gantry level issues related to that. I’ve done everything I can think of to adjust tension on the Z-axis wheels, etc to no avail. I can’t help but think dual lead screws would go a long way to helping solve these problems.
Dual Z-axis lead screws are a required feature for me, no matter what the printer size but ESPECIALLY with large format printers such as this.
@@tvideo1189 I’ve since gone with dual independent lead screws and an upgraded control board (MKS Robin Nano V3). Problem fixed. I also enjoy the silent stepper drivers.
9:02 how did you get the supports to be so thin do you use cura ? ugh so many settings. i just want to shave off some days on printing helmets with my upgraded Lk5pro
Could this print a dirtbike gas tank? Great video! Cheers
thank you very much
I just stumbled across your channel. What I'm looking for is a 3d printer that can print flooring material. (to replace warped floorboards.) Can it be done on this machine?
What's the difference between lk1 vs lk5 I need another printer . Should I spring for the lk5 if I'm used to the lk1 ?
Just wondering are you using the default temperature setting?
When I used 200C/60C, the adhesion issue comes frequently and I have to increase the bed temp to 80 to improve a little bit. But still, I constantly get the first few layers falling off or touch and then stick to the nozzle which totally mess up my print.
Depends on the material. For PLA, I typically print between 45 and 60 and rarely, if ever, go above that. For PETG I print hotter on both the bed and hot end but I had not issues with the bed at 60 for PLA.
@@The3DPrintingZone to
Hi wat type of filament are you using for these prints.,? Thnkz
They seem to be upgrading on this one, as they get feedback.. I just bought one for 330$ with upgraded Metal extruder and also added "New Dual Blower Kit" to the cart on their website. Since i can see most reviewers agree that the cooling is lacking. This will be my first 3D printer, seems like you get pretty decent build volume for the money, other competitors seem to charge at least 100$ more for the same volume, and still dont give you a touch screen.
Where did u purchase yours
I really don't see the need for a touch screen. What makes that so much better than a non-touch screen? Especially if you have to pay more for the touch screen?
Questions: what comparable or better large-scale 3d printers would you recommend? What's the material cost to print the cool rocket? Thanks! Great review.
Other ones to consider are the Ender 3 Max, Ender 5 Plus and Snapmaker (amongst others) and they, of course, all have their pros and cons. The new Prusa XL that is only available for preorder will be amazing but starts at around $2000. The material cost for the rocket was likely around $3. Gold filament, vase mode (spiralize outer contour) and it probably only took around 1/10th of the roll maybe.
@@The3DPrintingZone Sweet, thank you for the 3d printer ideas and the surprisingly low printing costs. I hope you review more giant 3d printers and showcase interesting models. Cheers!
looking at getting my first printer and this is a very nice video, the benchy is ok but what about something smaller such as a mini figure something like a D&D piece would this be able to handle detail or better to get a different printer for small fine detailed pieces?
Generally speaking, any FDM printer worth its salt these days can print quite well at a small scale with high detail. There is very little difference between a $200 printer and $2000 printer on miniatures, in my experience. If you want a much higher level of quality on miniatures, SLA printers are the way to go. This one is no exception. If you crank up the resolution by lowering the layer height to... say... 0.08mm, and reduce your speed, you'll get a pretty impressive miniature just about every time. Alternatively, you can also swap the nozzle for a 0.2mm and make it even higher detail for those sharp corners and such.
@@The3DPrintingZone awesome information thank you for the info and the quick reply!!
+1 Sub
Resin is the best way to go for small figures.
are you able to adjust z offset while printing? colleague of mine has this printer and he's not able to adjust or just not able to locate the option. i have an ender 3 v2 and i'm able to adjust it if need be.
what supports type did you use for first order storm trooper helmet at 8:53
My Lk4 units have severe salmon skin. Have you tested it with a big high poly figure or the S3D slicer? I am interested but if it does too then for 20$ more retail I can get the X2 instead.
Would you reccomend this over the ender 3 v2 if the cost difference isn't a deciding factor? I'm looking for something that's good, but not overly expensive since I am very new to the scene
That’s what I’m wondering too
What kind of infrared temperature measuring device are you using?
I have a Longer-produced version of this printer, the Alfawise U20 ONE.
The only problem that is constant is the lack of synchronicity between the dual Z axis motors.
It has 6 wheels on the Y carriage and was able to print at 250nn/sec with better than average quality and 200 mm/sec with actually GOOD prints.
Longer just is a solid printer, but not very complete with the current state of the art.
What filament and settings did you use for the stormtrooper helmet?
Ordered this one, 299$ cant go all wrong...
Just to be ready for when it come, where is the assembly guide you mentioned in video? :)
Nice review.... but what is that guitar? I'm curious about the one on the left with the single coils.
Fellow guitarist? So that's a guitar I designed and built over 20 years ago out of Maple. I loved the head profile of a violin and wanted to incorporate it in so that's what I put on the cutaway. I originally was going to carve the full tapering spiral into that section but I had such rudimentary tools I didn't see a way to make it happen. Still one of my favorite guitars though.
@@The3DPrintingZone Yeah, I play a little. Its a relaxing way to annoy everyone in the house. lol. Your design is cool. Thanks for replying.
The dual blower updated ones are great, I got one and bought two after. They are workhorses! Just jump the filament runout sensor, thing is terrible
Just saw your channel. I normally don't say anything. One thing you said that hit me a little weird. I am paraphrasing here. You said you got "permission" from the manufacture to say what was good or bad??? They should not have a say to what you like or dislike in a product. It's your review on an existing product. Unless you signed and NDA. It just hit me weird? Have you had a product where you were not aloud to say what is bad by the manufacture? Besides that. Good review. Thanks for reading.
I should have rephrased that. I receive a ton of review requests from 3D Printer manufacturers where they'll send the printer for free. All I was trying to say is that I won't review a printer or product without letting the manufacturer or supplier know that I will be honest in the review and not sugarcoat it for their benefit. If something stinks about the printer, I'll put that in the video. I have that actual conversation with them before they ship a product, so I'm informing them that I'll tell it how it is, even if they send the product for free.
I recently bough a USED ENDER 3.
At that time , I printed a spiderweb and it did a fine job.
I tried adjusting it , since then , and NOW it will HOME OK , but when I attempt a print , it will go to about 1/8 inch above the bed , and no lower ..........UNLESS ..... I set the Z-TRIM to -3.9 in the BABYSTEPS function...... then it prints just fine.
I have tried to search out an answer to no avail.
Can you tell me what is causing this ?
Thank you ...............................
I
From the thumbnail, I thought this is Kimi Raikonnen showing his new hobbies for retirement XD
Stringing is due to the moisture content in the material, many 3D operators don't know how to properly store material as PLA is hydroscopic.
For a hobbyist printer it looks decent but if you want precision the quality isn't there.
Anytime you have to keep fiddling with adjustments and not printing in a temperature controlled chamber it is not going to be good for consistency.
how does it handle high quality prints? can i get some DnD minis?
that benchie has a high layer height is why the roof looks like that. If you do a benchie at the .06mm that most printers can do as their finest settings, he doesn't look like that.
that single Z screw looks like a problem.
a single Z screw means that the other side is going to sag (as it did with my ender 3 pro), which makes leveling the bed impossible (the bed may be "level", but that means nothing if the right side of the gantry is 10-15 mm below the left side
If that's your worry, check out the anet a8 plus, Similar build volume but cheaper and two z screws
Can you use an older program to run this printer like coreldraw 6 or Coreldraw 11... just curious....
I'm interested in getting into 3D printing and I'm used to that software....
To my knowledge, CorelDraw is a 2D software, so you could possibly use it to start a model but you'd then have to use 3D modeling software like Blender, Fusion 360, Sketchup, CAD or TinkerCad to turn that into a 3D model. From there you need to slice it using slicing software and then you can send it to the printer.
I build a 4 foot high Delta printer. It's got a 2x3 foot envelope.
Nice!
Is this one better than the TronXY SA? The TronXY has 30 mm more travel XY.
A pretty honest review, considering it's sponsored, but I wish more 3D printers were reviewed by being bought and paid by the reviewer. Especially for such a relatively cheap printer, it could be done.
I used to think that too, but honestly, when a person puts their own money on the line, they will overlook the negatives to defend their large purchase. World we live in today, this is the closest I believe an honest review can be...
@@TheSchnook This is a commercial, not an honest review... He even admits that in the start when he says he got 'permission' from the manufacturer to say some negative things... So the manufacturer got the last word in the review.
@@someguy4915 yeah, and that is a problem. It taints the review.
I wanna print modular peices to assemble a film set flat when needed.. this could work but that's hella peices to print
that stringing could be caused from moisture in the filament could it not ?