CBR300R - Engine Teardown Part 2: How to remove the Cylinder, Piston, and Clutch
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- čas přidán 16. 05. 2019
- With the cams and cylinder head out of the way, we can now take off the cylinder itself, and the piston. We'll also take out the clutch. This process should take less than an hour if your work space set up, and you have a good system in place for organizing and storing your parts and fasteners.
Start by removing the water pipe - it's the only thing left tying the cylinder to the engine block. Two 8mm bolts, and it comes off easy.
Now lift the cylinder off, and careful that the piston doesnt bang into the block.
The piston is held to the connecting rod by the wrist pin. That comes out super easy once you use needle nose pliers to extract the spring clip. With the wrist pin out, the piston comes right off.
The clutch sits behind the right crank case cover. Remove the cover by pulling out the ten 8mm bolts. Nine of them are short, but the one near the water hose barb is about 2x as long.
Rotate the clutch lifter arm counter clockwise while pulling the cover so it will let go of the lifter piece.
Remove the five 10mm clutch lifter plate bolts and clutch springs.
Remove the clutch lifter plate, the clutch discs, the clutch plates, the judder spring, and the lifter piece.
De-stake the main bolt.
Anti-rotate the inner clutch carrier by threading some paracord between the inner and outer, and then use a 24 mm (or 15/16 inch) socket to loosen the nut.
Pull out the inner carrier free of the shaft splines by using paracord to pull parallel to the axis of the shaft.
Pull out the outer carrier, and finally, the needle bearings.
Here's the link to the MC garage video about the difference between wet clutches and dry clutches: • Wet Clutch vs. Dry Clu...
Filmed with a Canon Vixia HF R800 and edited in Lightworks 14.5.
Voiceover recorded in Audacity with a Blue Yeti mic (right after i recovered from strep).
It is time to replace the clutch on mine. I will rewatch the clutch portion of your video a couple of times before getting my hands wet. Thanks for posting!
That use of green cord to remove the clutch parts was genius! Keeping that one in my back pocket for future use! ;)
@1:01 the piston skirt looks pretty scored, might want to take a look at that. It could just by staining from piston ring blow by, which will clean off - but it would be a good idea to measure and check it's within tolerance anyway.
Enjoying the series so far, you're doing really well for someone new to this! :)
badly scored piston and wrist pin.. diagnostic of lubrication failure.. This is one of the prime reasons when I buy a used CBR300R.. I Do NOT want to buy it from a beginner for whom it was a First Motorcycle... for reasons illustrated here ! ( also there was a recall on these engines for lower end problems.. and presumably some did not go back for the new bearings).
As a 300r owner, u saved me!
trying this on cb500x which is pretty similar to yours, except the clutch stake is a beefy beefy piece of steel. I ended up pushing a part of it into the gap and now is proper stuck. FML
You need to get yourself a SK 45172 3/8-Inch Drive 1-1/2-Inch Professional Thumbwheel Ratchet. They're ridiculously overpriced, but the gears are smooth as butter compared to the cheapies and it looks like you'd get your money out of one.
you have good mecahnic's skills.. so I am surprised to hear you haven't done this before or don't understand how the clutch assy works ! could have fooled me. good trick with the nylon cord !
I studied mechanical engineering in school, and have done a decent bit of DIY car maintenance...so I've got some tools and enough know-how to get into trouble, but am quick to acknowledge how little I know when compared to "real" mechanics
For the 24mm socket, look at the DEWALT DWMT73813 Drive Socket Set (23 Piece), 1/2". It's a decent SAE & Metric set that leans to the large sizes, which is what you want for a 1/2" and its still a pretty good good value. The metric side tops out at 24mm. (Just trying to pass on finds I've made when building my own toolbox over the years. Hope this isn't viewed as inappropriate. I'm enjoying your videos.)
Thanks for the tip, and I'm glad you like the vids!!
Great detailed video! Was the piston in good condition?
Thanks!!
I dont "exactly" know what to look for regarding the goodness of the piston....but so far as whether it's likely the source of the knocking, i doubt it. The wrist pin was smooth and tight, the piston rings seem to all be in good condition. The only thing i noticed that i could complain about is that one of the side faces of the piston looks "new" and the opposite face looks striated. You can see the two different sides in the video between 1:27 vs 1:40. I suspect the striated side is the "thrust" face....meaning that's the side that the connecting rod is on during the power stroke. It doesn't feel terribly grooved, and the piston rings do the sealing anyways, so i think its fine?
@@lightningfrog27 Did you grab the conrod and see how much play was on the big end bearing? This is a likely source of your knock. Great work BTW.
@@Al-df7np yeah...it feels really stiff...I couldnt notice any slop in the up/down direction or the side/side direction.
That is pretty confusing to me, since the problem has to be coming from somewhere, and it feels like I'm running out of suspects!
MacGyver over here lol. Nice job inventing some tools to get that off. How long did this take you?
Thanks!!
Whole process (not including research, trial&error, and lights/camera setup) was less than an hour.
Hey, so somehow the wire that opens the passenger seat latch must have broke in my CBR250, I'm hoping you have a solution to get under that rear seat, or even taking that left side fairing off to get at the cable to open the latch maybe I can pull it. I'm just lost and can't find anything online. Thanks!
Hey there...I'd be happy to look at this and see if there is some sort of simple work-around. Am at a conference this week, so my next chance to be in the garage isn't until this coming weekend.
In the meantime, have you tried posting to www.cbr300forum.com/ ? There are a lot of smart/experienced/helpful guys there that also might be able to help.
lightningfrog27 no worries! When you get the chance just let me know! Thanks you
@@zachhirst2168 Ahoy there! I made a short vid so you can see where and how the moving parts go when you turn the key. I imagine you could hook the tab of the barrel with a coat hanger, or maybe a 90 degree pick. Access will be tight with the seats and fairings in place, and there's no existing openings from below. If you cant get it with a bent wire, maybe the best bet would be to drill a 1/2" diameter hole up from underneath to have access to that rotating barrel. Here's that video: photos.app.goo.gl/dzCuz53Zsodpz3Pp7
Let me know how it goes for you!
1:40 that piston don't looks so good!
Hi I noticed that I am leaking oil from the gasket from the right crankcase cover. To replace this gasket A: Do I need my engine out of the motorcycle? and B: Do i need to remove the upper portion with the piston. 2:38 is my reference. I am pretty handy with tools just need some advice as this is my first motorcycle.
Hi there! Congrats on the motorcycle.
A) you do not need to remove the engine to remove the right crank case cover.
B) you do not need to remove the piston, but you do need to remove the water pipe czcams.com/video/aYPgLPFuNRo/video.html
Dont forget to also need to drain the oil czcams.com/video/MjdBdM5cx9U/video.html and the coolant czcams.com/video/6BB7Ad8q9Zs/video.html before pulling off the crank case cover!
Good luck!!
@@lightningfrog27 Thank you! While i have the right crank case off is there anything that I should take the time and swap as maintenance like the O rings or clutch discs? Also thank you for the great documentation on taking apart the motorcycle. Literally nothing on the cbr300r and would be lost in manuals and documentation without the ease series of videos! Great Job!
I'm at a conference this week for work, so I don't have my factory service manual handy...I'll take a look this weekend. My guess is that there's nothing that NEEDS replacement...but if you were considering swapping over to stiffer clutch springs or whatever, this would certainly be convenient timing!
Hi guys,
Need expert advice I have a 2019 CB 300r which does not come with a slipper clutch, but the 2022 and 2023 edition comes with slipper clutch, when I approached the Honda experts if I could install that 2023 edition slipper clutch on my 2019 bike they instantly disagree with this decision and told if I do this I will lose my bike warranty.
So the question is can we install a slipper clutch from 2023 CB 300r on a 2019 edition?
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
No idea...I've never worked on a slipper clutch before. From what you said, sounds like their concern was warranty....so maybe the warranty will be void, but it could work just fine?
Can you just put a word around and lemme know if this will really work?
Pro tip xD dont use a tiny cheap screwdriver lmao