Will Bar's One Seal Stop Leak fix the oil use? | Oil Burning🔥Experiments | Episode 8
Vložit
- čas přidán 8. 07. 2024
- Haven't had time to change the oil seals on the Corolla, so I thought we'd try another chemical in the meantime.
Bar's Stop Leak: www.walmart.com/ip/Bar-s-Leak...
0:00 Intro
0:23 Piston slap?
4:57 Adding One Seal Stop Leak to crankcase
8:00 After 200 miles
9:50 Topping off oil
16:00 Results
Oil Burning Corolla playlist: • I poured Seafoam down ...
Garage Apartment videos - Episode 1: • How to turn a garage b...
#oneseal
#stopleak
#oilburner
#1zzfe
**Disclaimer:
If you choose to imitate, duplicate or copy anything you may have observed in these videos, you do so at your own risk. The creator of this content does not take any responsibility for any action taken as a result of the information or advice on this CZcams channel (or other platforms) and shall not have any liability in respect of any injury or damage that may result. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
man the patience you put into these videos......bravo!
Thank you for taking the time to anylize this product. Your intervention was quite comprehensive and I look forward to your future videos.
Been following since this video over a year ago and it's official. There is no miracle in a bottle solution, but it has been a blast watching your testing! Stay awesome and keep up the good work!
Thanks! :-)
Thank you for spending your time and money to educate us!
Thank YOU for the kind comment!
You can clean up the ring lands by loading the piston rings. Put it in second gear and go full throttle from 20 miles an hour to 60 miles an hour then let off the throttle fully do not push in the clutch and then it come back down to around 20 mph and repeat the process about four times that should definitely help. When you let off the throttle and you’re using engine braking, the vacuum pulls the rings out. This is also known as the ring seating process you will see this in your vehicle repair manual at the end of the engine rebuild section it will tell you about your first drive with the new motor.
Interesting. Thx
nonsense.
@@cal48koho It's in every haynes manual HO
Right engine vacuum is great for the rings and engines. I also do this when I break in a new motor. I will decel on a hill to help seat the rings.
I was waiting for this video, great content man. Can't wait until the top change of valve stems
I was actually dreading releasing this one -- since it was more of a "fill-in" video. Thanks for the kind comment!
valve stems will not cause that much oil consumption
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY try HPL Engine Cleaner. It is available on AdvLubrication wedsite. I tried posting a link, but it keeps getting deleted. That stuff seriously works. And HPL stands behind their product 100%. Add it to the engine oil, and change oil filter every 1000 miles at most, as it will keep getting plugged up with gunk from inside the engine. Shipped to your door a quart of that engine cleaner will run $30, but worth every penny. I am 100% positive that it will save you time and money by not having to do a rebuild, as HPL Engine Cleaner WILL clean up those piston rings, unlike most of snake oils available at local store shelves.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I know some people with extremely sludged up engines just bought a 6qt case of that oil, as shipping charge is the same for 1qt bottle or 6qt box. So the 6qt box ends up in the $90 range. But that's for a very deep clean, so whatever your preference is. I cannot stress enough the fact that this stuff truly works, unlike all the fakes out there. And that's coming from the guy that lives and breathes Marvel Mystery Oil...
@@SanProsan1993 Thanks. I’ll put that on the list of experiments we might try.
Previous video in this series:
Is it the PCV valve?: czcams.com/video/91gMq7QYN-I/video.html
Next video in this series:
Valve stem oil seal replacement - Part 1: czcams.com/video/09qes0cqnAQ/video.html
Entire oil burning experiment playlist: czcams.com/play/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj.html
I appreciate your patients....
Dave, just found your channel and watched the whole Corolla Trilogy 😉. Love your enthusiasm. Subscribed.
Might l suggest an alternative to rebuilding the entire engine (only if you can drop the oil pan without removing engine). If the pan can be dropped, remove the cylinder head, then remove the pistons with the engine installed (disconnect rod caps from below and push pistons up and out). Clean up the pistons, possibly modify the oil drain holes in the pistons, run a hone down the cylinders and install new rings. This would save a few dollars and valuable time. Don’t waste any money on machine shop work. If the above can be accomplished, (I’ve done this on hondas) you’ll more than likely get another easy 150K miles.
You’re DIY Dave, don’t let the corolla win.
Thanks man! ... Yeah, if I end up tearing it down, I'll probably do that. The block is considered non-machinable, so I couldn't have it rebored anyway. Thanks again :-)
I would, if one can find engine with low miles, swap the engine than rebuild this one. Unless Dave has all the needed tools to do the rebuild.
My guess the previous owner was 'a car killer' as we called people who neglect their cars.
@@pliedtka No need to rebuild, just refresh. If it is indeed the rings, just running a hone down the cylinders, new rings and a few gaskets would easily get him another easy 100K miles. I’ve done this same thing before on honda’s.
Only thing bad about an engine swap is you may come out worse than before.
Just my opinion tho...
@@nas979 They do things like this in Pakistan, Indonesia, Philippines etc. lt works. We Americans have been brainwashed by so much marketing, we now believe that all this machine work (boring the cylinders, head resurfacing, etc is required, its not. The same goes for so many other things in life, we have been brainwashed into thinking we need to spend that money…
@@thedeadman3848 perceived value, the psychology involved in relation to money in business heres a mind Grenade from 1900 , and seeing as how the cars haven’t changed much ….a lot of this is like …right out of the playbook it’s TinCanny! en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Philosophy_of_Money
I love the mystery of finding oil leak
Thorough test thank you
Nice video!
Hey bud! No worries on the dirty windshield at 9:42…it happens to the best of us!!
Yay! 1zz-fe videos are back! My oil consumption problem got to 1 qt of oil every 200 miles. I tried all the oil additive fixes (MMO, thicker oil, etc.) didn’t work. I eventually swapped in a JDM motor. The key on these engines is run synthetic and don’t let the oil get dirty. I understand the oil return passages on the piston ring recesses are to few and too small and conventional oil gunks it up, increases friction and wears out the cylinder bores and/or piston ring prematurely / or sticks the rings. Thing is once there is so much solidified carbon to stick piston rings you can’t solve the problem with oil cleaner additives. The oil return passages are to small and too few to introduce enough solvent to clean the grooves out completely sufficiently with out removing and physically cleaning the pistons. The residual carbon you can clean out acts like a condensation nuclei for more carbon and it just builds back up again. In my case it was just easier to swap in a used JDM motor and keep the synthetic oil changes short interval (
Edit: The residual oil you *CAN’T* clean out
Thanks for all that, Philip! Tons of good info!
Hmm thinking of maybe just doing the same getting a Japanese engine 05 onwards the issue was fixed also although it was mid 05 they say so I'd be looking for an MY06 model. But mine is south African build and quiet a few things are different even dumb shit like headlights and they are more expensive lmao don't know how when they are more janky. Thanks for your detailed comment though you've inspired me 😊
Use a zinc additive to synthetic oil for valve seating and gaskets. Conventional oil has zinc and synthetic doesn't. If vehicle is already using, leaking or burning oil, synthetic will make it worse.
On Bobistheoilguy . com, one of their Sponsors is a company that make a custom oil that apparently is good at cleaning the engine/rings/etc.
Those guys are sceptics of ALL the 3rd-party additives, and even they seem to be finding it seems to work. Think the oil is made by EPL(?) or someone.
Just do a leak-down test, brother. It takes no more than 60 minutes and after that you will know what the most likely cause is.
The only additive that MIGHT unstick piston rings is BG EPR (BG 109). Nothing else. You can try that if you still think there is an issue with the piston rings.
My cars recommended oil by manufacturer and mechanic is 10w-30 for optimal performance and fuel efficiency. The 2.0 liter 16ohv would burn the oil about a quart every 500miles as well like yours. After reading the owners manual I figured out that even though recommended oil was 10w-30, the year round temperature actually required me to use 10w-40. The car stopped burning oil and runs great.. read your owners manual and follow it's advice.
I’ll have to check, but I believe my manual said use 5W 30 in most conditions but if only driving in hot weather 10W-30 would be fine. It does have variable valve timing, so I don’t think I’m supposed to go any thicker than that. That’s good info though. Thanks for the comment!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Hey Dave. Are you sure the variable valve timing is viscosity sensitive. These videos are for experimental research right? I'm pretty sure if you were to use a higher viscosity oil and it changed the way vvt worked it would be a simple fix by putting the original viscosity oil back in the engine. No harm no foul. Could just be time to barrow a bore scope.
@@thatsonebadhatharry8610
vvt problems only if you let your oil turn into a glue
and those valves are not hard to remove clean they are mostly 2 screws at the head/ valve cover
My mother has a Fiat Punto with variable timing and manual calls dor 15w40, so... I'd try Diesel 15w40 semisyn on it. In My Rolla 1zzfbe (flex fuel) I use 15w40 and it has vvti, works great on it at least above freezing temp. Dunno at minus 20F. The colder I get here is minus 5C.
If possible, pull the oil pan off and check for a clogged oil pickup screen right away. The knocking and rattling is caused by oil starvation. If there is alot of metallic particles in the pan, you have likely spun a bearing and oil consumption will not improve unless the engine gets rebuilt.
My car is a great oil consumer almost as yours. First I changed the oil viscosity to the thickest on the owners manual. The consumption of oil was reduced a bit. It used to consume more oil in highway so at low speeds low oil consumption. But some time ago I've noticed smoke during the first start in the morning. So, probably the valve seals were bad, but long before the morning smokes the oil consumption was remarkable. I've changed the valve stems about 2 months ago. The car doesn't smokes more during the first start and the oil seems cleaner. Unfortunately I didn't have the chance to drive it much since then, so the oil is still full. Maybe I get the road next week. I'm very interested in this saga because also believe that my problem lies in the piston rings.
Keep us posted Diego. I’d really like to hear how yours turns out!
numbers ?? oil consumption/milage before and after , oil viscosity ?? car model
Hello, Diego. Any news after replacing your valve stems seals? Did your car stopped smoking and consuming oil?
Interesting watching you try everything a DIYer can do. When those oil rings are stuck there not just stuck- they are baked in and compacted with carbon. Compacted from the combustion process over and over. Going back to 1992 we were introduced of the Saturn S. Its 4 cyl engine- SOHC and DOHC design was similar to the Japanese engines with the exception it used a timing chain. But owners discovered later in life the S motor drank oil. The oil return holes in the piston ring lands would plug causing stuck oil rings. Even with vigilant oil change intervals it eventually occurred. Saturn ran this flawed design from its debut in 1992 to the discontinuation of that engine/engines in 2002. In 2008 I tried a $25 can of a BG product in my 97 Saturn. I poured the 16oz can in the oil and ran the engine at 2500ish RPM idle for I think 20 minutes. I bought the BG product from a Saturn Dealer as this was recommended by Saturn techs. I changed the oil and filter afterward as instructed. I also had to replace the sparkplugs as they were packed and gacked with black pasty goo. I assume this to be carbon broken down by the BG and combustion. Result? My Saturn still drank the same 1 quart every 400 miles. Those pistons would need removed and cleaned (total proper rebuild actually) to eliminate consumption.
But a lot of people have had piston soaks solve their oil ring problem. Not sure how many had rings that had been ganked for 50-80K miles though.
Have you thought of using an oil catch can to see how much blow by you have? The engine will naturally burn off oil through the intake via the pcv but you could also do some dye to see if you have external leaks as well.
Rubber conditioner type of sealers will, only, soften the rubber. They will not fill any cracks that may have occurred from heat and chemical failure.
Do you have extra exhaust coming from the tailpipe?
With your level of oil consumption, if it was all from valve-stems you'd see massive white smoke every morning. My 93 Tercel had morning white smoke that was solved by stem-seal replacement (a $1000 fix) ... no more morning smoke, but still burns oil.
My 74 Ranger billows a giant cloud of oil only when idling but none driving. Haven’t checked it out but I wonder if valve stem seals would be it?
@@markpell5654Bluish white smoke =valve stem seals. White vapor smells like coolant=head gasket leak.
That cold rattle drive definitely seems like it would conside with your low compression cylinder 2 and 3 from another video when engine was cold. Been following all your videos because you're much more patient than me and I have a lovely oil guzzling 1zz-fe myself 😂 damn your oil got black quickly, mine does this also but not quite as quick as that!.
I replaced the intake manifold gasket on my 2003 Corolla and was able to clear the check engine light/code. $10 part and about 30 minutes of time.
Hello from Charlotte, NC Dave! I think I found the product that will save you some money, by eliminating the need for a rebuild. HPL Engine Cleaner is the name. It is not a snake oil, like some of those that you've tried. This stuff truly works, and I believe your stuck rings will be good as new. Word of caution. This product is very strong, so change your oil filter every 1000 miles while this product is used. Oil can stay, top off as needed, but oil filter WILL get plugged up and go into bypass, if ran for full oil change interval.
I'm not affiliated in any way, just sharing a product that works 100%, to save you some time and money on a rebuild.
With the engine running and the oil cap off (try both cold and hot), can you feel gasses blowing out the top of the engine?
Have you tried resetting the system.& Clearing out all of the codes to see if your check engine light stay off after doing that procedure.
Honey Force , do thicker oil works for blue smoke? Have u tried it before? I recently bought a 5 quarts of 10/40 oil I haven’t put it yet.?i tried putting bardhal seal and it didn’t seem to work for me. I drove my dodge caravan for 100 miles now and I didn’t see any diff. Still blue smoke come out
I've heard good things about AT-205 stop leak additive.
You can try an engine flush and oil change to unstick the oil ring.
1.year later first time seeing November 23 2023
Have you tried changing oil weight (ex. going to 10w40 instead of 10w30)?
This series is great, thanks for the documentation. I'm sorry that the problem hasn't been fixed yet, but it's still great to know what doesn't work.
In one of the earlier videos he mentioned not wanting to use anything other than the oil called for. He wants to try and fix the problem instead of masking it (his words).
He also said that he doesn't want to risk the VVT with heavier oil.
lol you will end up hauling an oil tank behind you 😂😂
just increase the oil to 5/40 or 10/40 or even 10/50 it will fix the problem or at least decrease the consumption and don't worry about VVT unless your oil turn into glue before you change it 😅
I have a 1998 rolla with 4 speed auto. Thought I was escaping this oil burn issue , but it has reared its ugly head at 130,000 miles. I noticed it on a 600 mile trip at 80+ mph . Down 3/4 of a qt. Did the same trip again at 70 mph. Much better , aprox 1/4 to 1/2 qt. Didnt ad any to be sure because I was geting it changed today anyway. It was about 1/4 inch below full mark . This car is my winter beater . I was hoping to get 200 out of her .
HI, I may missed out your previous video but did you do pressure test on each piston, that may provide some info..
Yep. Here it is if you want to check it out. czcams.com/video/T6yeIOL8ifE/video.html ---Thanks for watching!
Hey your going around.& About it the right way to do it to man.
Good job Matthew 5 keep on keeping on man.
I am not sure if I missed the previous video, did you try compression test.?
Here what I do always. Easy to do if you have the means.
Replace the piston rings and valve seal. Without taking the engine out. It may take few hours but can be done by yourself not a big deal.
Stop leak does not work good (or even not at all) with hyper modern rubber seals, the brown and blue ones are Viton or Neoprene seals...they are resistent. Stop seal works best with BUNA (synthetical black rubber seals = NBR) On vintage cars with NBR rubber gaskets most stop leak additives work pretty well.
Interesting. I'll have to look into that.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY yes anti leak additives works with BUNA/NBR best not so good or not at all with the newer super rubbers
I thought the destructions specified a second application st 200 miles if oil is still being burned (paraphrase) Did you do that?
If you want results fast…I would recommend Engine Restore….it’s a oil additive that improves compression, clings to the piston rings and throughly coats the internal parts
It also unstick piston rings pretty good.
I need the final fix for my 98!!!!
A simple test to rule out valve seals is to let the engine rest for a couple of days, if the valve seals are bad during that time they will leak oil in the combustion chambers, with the consumption you have it should be a good amount of oil and when you turn it on It will burn that oil in the form of smoke that will disappear after a few minutes.
I know my car has bad valve seals because it does the exact same thing.
I think you’re right Javier. I’ve noticed if I let it sit for about an hour and come out and crank it when the engine is still kind of warm it does blow some smoke now. The strange thing is it hasn’t been doing that all along even though there’s been tons of oil usage all along. I think I’ve got multiple problems going on now.
Hey there, question: During this entire journey, has the car blown gray smoke out the exhaust in large amounts at all??
I haven’t head you mention that yet.
Thanks!
Nope. Under normal driving it never smokes.
When is gonna be the next one on the Rolla? Piston slap or exhaust leak (when warm dilation seals exhaust bolts and gaskets).
I got the same engine. Mine using tons of oil i think more than yours? Around 1.5L every week. I drive around 350-450KM a week.
I can even see oil dripping out of exhaust when being idling for a extended period.
I just found somethink on internet i was interested in trying.
Basically you were supposed to take spark plugs out, and add "fuel additive/cleaner" directly into cylinders and let soak for a day or two.
Keep checking on the car, crank it and add more as its working on dissolving the carbon deposits.
In the end, drain oil and refill.
Really thinking about this 🤔
The oil leaks don’t have to be external. If the seals around the spark plug wells are bad then the oil will leak into the spark plug wells and get burned out when the engine is running, especially at freeway speeds.
The HPL Engine Cleaner is in the mail to you. :) Just pour it in when it next gets to that bottom hole on dipstick! That easy 😃
Thanks, Joseph! 👍🏻👍🏻
The valve steam leak usually shows up as blue smoke when the car is started, but new catalytic work well and not might show as magic smoke.
I don't think I've mentioned this in a video yet, but in the past few months, if I've been driving it till warm, then turn it off for about half an hour, then crank it again, it has begun starting with a puff of smoke. It's only under certain conditions though. Not from stoplights or anything. ... Maybe the cat is on the way out.
Is your crankcase oil sensor leaking?
Last time I've had issue with oil burning after changing thermostat in Volvo V50 1.8F. Please check if your car dosn't have problem with to high engine temperature.
Hi Dave new sub here. In your experiments. Which additive works for sealing the valve stem seals? And which additive works for stuck piston rings? My 2003 dodge caravan failed the smog snap test. When you rev it after idling 5 or 10 minutes, a thick white bluish smoke come out specially on the first rev. The second and third rev sometimes it’s slightly noticeable sometimes it’s almost like not noticeable.i dont see a thick smoke when i start it in the morning( maybe I. Have to wait a few minutes ) I usually start the car and go see the tailpipe within seconds I don’t see any white bluish smoke at all maybe I have to wait a couple min.
Thanks for the sub, Rick. ... I haven't had success sealing the valve stem oil seals with a chemical, but if there was one that might be able to do it, I think it would be AT-205. atpautomotive.com/re-seal ... If you try it and it works, please let us know!
Thanks Dave , I’ll give the at 205 a shot and I’ll let you know if it worked
Is an oi Catch Can a decent or potential remedy for these older Toyota engines known to burn oil due to faulty piston ring design...? Looking into it. Thank you
There are mixed opinions on the catch can. In a later video, I do some scoping and it doesn't appear much oil is coming through my PCV system ... but some people have said it helps a lot.
Good for you trying, with my benz e350 dose not work.
with the recent spikes in oil prices are you still going to continue running supertech/kirkland or are you going to switch?
I think I'm sticking with Kirkland for the foreseeable future, James.
On the plus side, your oil is constantly in great condition
It could be A exhaust port not working properly. To let the right of amount carbon out.& burned fuel out of the exhaust pipe to begin with to bud. Due just being clogged up. I recommend trying out two bottles of catatclean myself to you for your car issues.
Thicker oil promotes higher oil pressure which in turn makes the VVT-i operate better. But the downside is that the fuel consumption goes up because it’s harder for the internals to move in the thicker oil . Honestly you can try "Shell rotella t6”5w-40 synthetic diesel oil. I ran it in my Scion tC & it helped tremendously in smooth quiet operation
Are you not smoking out of the exhaust at all?
I think you need a rebuild or short block or drive add some Lucas engine oil stop leak and new synthetic oil 5-40 and filter . The Lucas is thicker and should slow oil consumption old fashion blue bottle stp might work also but I bottle is a small amount . Cold weather might be an issue with oil thickeners but I think you engine will need replacing any way . Hey I thought the Japanese car were the best lolo.My 3.8 series 3 2004 Grand Prix 408000 uses 0 oil with 5-40 synthetic and shifts great original trans the key oil and filter every 4500 5000 miles using quality synthetic and pump out trans fluid annually using a hand operated suction pump
Dave:
I had a 5-Speed All-Trac wagon for a number of years....it had oil-consumption issues after 250,000+miles even after a valve-job. Culprit ended-up being oil-control/compression rings lining-up over time. Expenses for that fix was my time(off-setting rings),headgasket and oil pan gasket.....all done with engine in the car. Sold that car as it was appoaching 400,000 miles....it wasn't using oil then and the person that has the car nowdays says all is well.
Rings spinning around over time and sometimes lining-up is normal on all piston engines. Note, I did not even bother replacing the rings as the cross-hatch patterns were still in the block......just inexpensive Walmart carb-cleaner and acetone was used to rid the varnish on cylinder walls,etc.
Great story. So you just rotated the rings?? you didn't replace them?
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Nope, just rotated the rings 120degrees apart, and put the pistons back in holes they came from.
@@dmcnamara9859 That IS cool!
I have 03 Corolla CE that also uses oil. I believe it is the piston oil ring. My Corolla had maxed out odometer in 2018.
As a recommendation to reduce oil usage, keep RPM between 2 and 3 thousand. Going between 3 and 4 increases consumption, IMHO.
Thanks for that info. It could make an interesting test. That could be why it used so much on the way to Florida in the MMO video.
My evap light has been on 150 k miles. I now have 320k on my focus. Uses about 1 qt every 3000 miles
What oil are you using? full synthetic 5w-30?
Yes
Dave I think i solved my problem on my 1kr toyota engine burning oil. What i did i bought a can of Liqui moly Proline Engine flush, dumped it in my engine and drove a hole 30 mins with the flush in my engine. I changed my oil left it dripping all night. in the morning i filled it up with oil and till today a drove a little over 1000km. to my surprise it didnt burn any oil. Can you try it out and keep me posted my friend? Its important it mst be liquimoly PROLINE Engine Flush
I got some information on a real aggressive piston soak. Berrymans Chem dip. You literally fill the combustion chambers with it. Let it sit over night. You cannot start the vehichle with it in the crankcase. You will want to try to suck out any excess in the chambers before doing this. Turn the engine over with either an electrical relay trick in the fuse box or just use the key. Make sure your efi fuse is pulled. Have a towel over the engine and turn if a few times to make sure any excessive Chem dip is gone. You will get a lot of carbon coming out of the tubes. Use an air hose to blow any you can out. Drain the oil. Flush the engine. You might have to flush it with oil a couple times. If you Flush it with a couple quarts, then plug the hole and fill it you should be able to start it and run it for a few minutes before draining that oil too. After that you should be able to run the new oil (2nd change) and it should be good. If your oil pressure light comes on pull your oil pressure sensor and clean it out with brake clean or throttle cleaner. Light should go off after that. This cleaner is so aggressive that it cleaned all the carbon off the top of my piston heads and I could see shiny bare metal. Before it was black. It took a good 100 miles for it to blow out all the carbon that was in the combustion chamber, and the crank. The oil control rings were what was stuck on my engine. The compression rings were in great shape, I had great compression. But even after valve seals and pcv valve it was still burning oil. I haven't had to top the oil off yet, but I will update as I go. Currently at 100 miles on the oil. When I fill up at 300 I can let you know if I've lost any.
(Update)
My engine is a k24 Honda engine. So although it's not the same manufacturer it's similar in design, size, and it's Japanese. So very similar build quality. Honda recommends 5w-20 which is what I flushed through the engine. But after draining it scompletely and filling it up a second time. I used 10w-40. Haven't lost or burned a drop. Some might argue that this is not a good idea, but the thicker oil is counterbalanced by the 160k miles of abuse it's taken before I got it and the 5k miles I've put on it since babying it. Between the wear that's it'd gotten from the milage and age, the bearings and tolerances are looser. They're not so loose that I can't run 5w-20 on it. But it will burn if I do. It's just so thin that it's splashing in from the crankcase into the combustion chamber from the rotation of the crank and causes excess oil to be present in the combustion chamber. The thicker oil isn't throwing a code or causing more friction in the engine. It's handling it perfectly. And as I said I've yet to burn any oil in 150 miles.
Time to try the Shooters Lube solvent
I know. I'm itching to get back to those experiments La Marc!
I have read that in some forums that filling the oil to 10mm above the fill line was in a technical service bulletin from Toyota to help this issue. I did this in my 2000 Chevy Prizm (almost the exact same as a Corolla) and it seemed to have help. Still too early to know for sure though.
If you can, keep us posted.
filling more oil will increase the oil pressure so it will burn more
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY So if am going just off of mileage it appears I burn a quart every 1300 miles. But I don’t believe it is based off of mileage. I check the oil regularly and it seems to only burn oil on the highway. So it’s probably really 1 quart for 500 miles of highway driving. I cannot tell if filling 10 mm above the dipstick helped. My car was a one owner vehicle and I have all of the service records. The Toyota dealership put new rings at 80,000 miles. When it is time for an oil change I will test the seafoam high mileage before I change the oil.
Oil pan gasket?
Dave I know you have tried everything! What about Valvoline blue restore? It was developed by Cummings and Valvoline for their commercial diesel engines - Cummings PN - C883592GA. Its expensive though $70 for a gallon.
THANK YOU SOOOOO MUCH. my 98 has same issue. 165k mi.
Thanks for watching man. Hopefully we'll get them fixed soon!
Thanks for the update. Seasons greetings!
I wonder could there be scoring of the cylinder walls? If that’s the case then freeing up stuck rings won’t help it. It may have been started with stuck rings. Car care but has a good explanation video. He has probably torn down a few of these engines.
I’m also surprised you don’t use the cheapest oil possible. I wonder if you could get conventional oil by the bucket?
Maybe my math is bad here because of converting to km’s but let’s assume use a quart of oil each tank. Say a tank costs you $40. Again converting USD to CAD so a bit off here. If you got the oil for $2/quart, that’s 1/20th of your fuel cost, or 5%. That’s not too bad considering you have an economical car and especially considering the cost of replacement.
I looked up bulk oil and I saw revy solutions listed miles milesyn as $2/quart if you buy a 55 gallon drum and it’s a synthetic blend. 55x4=220 tanks @ $440 + drum deposit + pump. Also, you can sell bulk oil at $4/quart to your buddies 😉
I love the Car Care Nut! and you're right czcams.com/video/h6XnNAfQ904/video.html ... The Kirkland Full synthetic is pretty cheap for full syn. I think about $3 a quart. I want to run synthetic as (I think) it's supposed to help clean, and prevent the sticking to begin with. I think these Corollas had conventional spec'd for them originally, but they switched to synthetic later due to these issues. I did scope it in this video czcams.com/video/A398v3j67Jw/video.html ... but I'll take all the opinions I can get on what looks like is going on in the cylinders. Thanks for the comment Craigie!
There is some scoring at the liners because of the piston slap, as he verified by the last valve seals replacement video (@ march 22)when borescoping the cyls
Check the oil pan gasket on her car.& Oil pan bolts to. They could be loose on it.
wouldn't next grade thickness oil help with oil consumption?
10w40?
also its from the cylinder walls and piston rings
The 1ZZ engine has a known issue with not having enough oil return holes in the pistons. Using lower viscosity synthetic fluid (with proper intervals) will keep the return holes open. Extending Oil Change Intervals, using higher oil viscosity grade, or using conventional oil instead of synthetic only contributes more to clogging of those small oil return holes in the piston. A solution is to replace the piston rings and drill more holes in the piston, or use updated OEM pistons from Toyota, with all new piston rings as well. Aside from all this, the only product that may be able to work chemically is "HPL Engine Cleaner". But that product is so strong that one of the requirements is to change the oil filter every 1000 miles, as it just gets plugged up with gunk that is being cleaned out from the engine.
@@SanProsan1993 well I learned something today Thank you for that
Do you thing the 1nz prius ven2 engine has the same issue ?
Many people have this oil consumption problem and my assumption is because people drive them cars to slow and to low rpm around 2000 constant
I have a gen2 prius and doesn't burn oil but I floor it at least once a day 😀
Its more than valve stem seals. More like worn guides. Pull the intake and exhaust manifolds and look in the ports. More tha likley you need to rebuild that engine and do the bearings and replace the prisons to the updated ones and the head valve guides
Try Verylube Anticarbon. It works very well!
I'm battling the same problem in a car that's a year or two older than yours.
LuBEGUARD oil seal with every oil change…..just make sure it’s on operating temperature when you add it to the engine compartment
It does say to treat again.
Mr DIY....I believe the answer is obviouse...weather it is valve seals or piston rings...the evidence is there...add it up...1. Oil is not getting dirty proves valves are seating...valve seals may leak oil in intake and burned in power stroke creating heavy exhaust...how is exhaust does car pass emissions test ???...2. If it were stuck clogged piston rings it would cause blow by creating exhaust pressure in crankcase exiting oil dip stick and filler cap and pcv...do you agree ???...often blow by creates pressure in crankcase forcing oil out main seal as you drive and increase exhaust in pcv and throttle body...does throttle body have excessive oil varnish ???...KEEP UP THE TESTING IT IS VALUABLE TO DISCERN DIAGNOSE A FIX READING ALL SYMPTOMS...Listen watch observe...your creating an intresting video...DIY Sherlock....How is main seal ???...Have you noticed any oil trails as you pull in and park ???...You checked pcv if you block it does blowby come out oil stick filler cap that would mean it is piston rings...???...thanks for your effort most mechanics do not know how to read obviouse symptoms...they don't even try...valuable lessons...Royal Purple is known to clean engines...I have seen proof...if it is clogged piston rings adding sealants would make worse...engine oil cleaners would help but requires patience...I wonder if Royal Purple and a RP oil engine cleaner would free up dirty piston rings...Redline has a engine oil cleaner...???..
So I am very well having the same issue believe it or not on MY 2002 C-RV. I replaced my valve seals, and pcv valve. I have some tips if you're looking for some. But I am still burning oil. I've tried oil additives and cleaners in my crankcase, and I do still have a lot of soot and carbon in my engine but it's starting to clear after 3 oil changes every 1000 miles. The only thing that has slowed the burn was a very aggressive regiment of seafoam AT oil changes, I used supertech advanced 20k mile protection 5w-20 oil, and I was using STP high milage oil treatment + stop leak. (It's a grey bottle) and it worked better than anything else that I've used (blue devil, seafoam, bars, lucas, and other stop leaks) so because of the fact that it slowed but didn't stop it. I decided to try some lucas high milage oil stabilizer. Since then I've gone from burning a quart every tank of gas, about 300-350 miles, to burning maybe a pint per tank of gas. I'm hoping that sticking with my regiment of seafoam at oil changes and a cup of diesel to the crankcase before an oil change, that it will help with my soot problem.
Good info. We have a 2001 CR-V in the family, but it doesn't burn any oil ... leaks a little though :-)
what is the point of using 5w-20 + oil treatment ,, you know what stop leak treatment does ?? just increase your oil viscosity so you pay more for thinner oil + oil treatments
just switch to 10w40
@@Techie1224 because the oil stabilizer doesn't change the viscosity too much. If anything it qould be like doing a 50/50 of 5w-20 and 10w-30. Once the lucas has been added and mixes with the oil it's not percievably any thicker. It's essentially an additive package that adds more detergents and minerals that help reduce wear and friction. This is a V-tec engine. It was designed for this oil, not 5w-30 or 10w-40. When you run a thicker oil like that it will throw off the viscosity enough so that is can trigger the Vtec indefinitely because the ECU is picking up a higher oil pressure. So you could potentially ruin the programming on your ECU, trigger multiple fault codes, trigger the oil pressure light, and even add too much viscosity that it ADDS friction and starts to wear out engine components faster, or even worse it could cause so much pressure that you start experiencing blow-by because there's too much PCV in your engine due to thicker oil.
So I'll just stick to what I'm doing. I will use my $20 supertech oil and my $10 lucas oil stabilizer and $8 OEM filter. It works fine, I'm definitely burning less oil, and it runs fine.
Also if you don't have the owners manual you can probably download it or find a used one.
Any plans to do an engine flush just to free any possiblity of parts sticking? Then completely fresh oil with AT 205. AT 205 is amazing, I've used it for rubber parts and it worked.
done czcams.com/video/h00tNeTEiVg/video.html :-)
or check these out:
Seafoam vs. Stuck piston rings - top down approach: czcams.com/video/cxz9cGCULNI/video.html
Seafoam vs. Stuck piston rings - bottom up approach: czcams.com/video/Q5kEbu7lXG8/video.html
Marvel Mystery Oil vs. Stuck piston rings: czcams.com/video/ZJ023-Wk0OQ/video.html
Motor Flush vs. Stuck Piston Rings: czcams.com/video/h00tNeTEiVg/video.html
Compression test: czcams.com/video/T6yeIOL8ifE/video.html
Is it the PCV valve?: czcams.com/video/91gMq7QYN-I/video.html
Scoping the cylinders of an oil burner: czcams.com/video/A398v3j67Jw/video.html
That engine sounds like it has some serious piston slap on acceleration. Time to check the bores I think
got you covered Simon ... czcams.com/video/09qes0cqnAQ/video.html
The check engine light could be A sensor acting up.,or malfunctioning.,or due catalytic converter partly clogged up with carbon.& Oil sludge film inside of it. And it's coated on all over the top of one of the oxygen sensors on bank one.,or bank two.,the main oxygen sensor coming off of the engine down to the catalytic converter area instead one.
I've used the at205 but it just made the car smoke like crazy which it wasn't doing before. So I'm pretty sure it tipped my stem seals over the edge.
yikes
@FamilyFriendlyDIY it's a bummer, but they would have needed replacing anyway to fix the issue properly. I'm just mad that it cost me $120 to get the at-205 and it didn't work. I could have bought replacement seals for $150. Lesson learnt.
Hey Dave . I have been watching your videos . and it is pretty positive to say that you are not going to get that 1.8 Toyota 1zz engine to stop using oil ,. especially at 175,000 miles . those engines are built with low tention , thin low drag piston rings . yes it could have seeping valve stem seals . But I have been working on engines for 40 years , and I have never seen rebuild in a bottle fix leaking piston rings .
But I can tell something to try that will probably slow down the oil consumption quite a bit . Change the oil with Shell brand 5w30 conventional oil along with one quart of Lucas oil stabilizer . and maybe just for good measure use a Wix oil filter instead of those cheap Walmart ones . Lucas is really good to use in old engines . I have had very good luck with all Lucas products , and have been using them since I was a kid . But if you use Lucas oil stabilizer all the time , flush the engine with a half of can of Sea foam , for about 30 minutes , every ten thousand miles to help prevent any sludge build up , because Lucas does add extra viscosity to any oil.
Good luck , and let me know how it goes . and if you want to try this suggestion on video that would be cool . Tim from Wisconsin .
That's pretty thick stuff. So much about not wanting to change the viscosity of the oil.
Older cars required thicker oil
I think you can do an oil change and remove the rest?
Check the thermostat?
Great series! any new experiments commin up? I can recomment hot shots secret stiction elminitation
Still pondering the oil loss.... It is very simple, the blow-by in the cylinders by the use of thinner oil than it is designed for, simply goes trough the crankcase and out trough the combustion chamber by the way of the EGR valve by evaporation thus the high amounts of carbon build up in the pistons and provably all throughout the exhaust system ( I got the feeling that the converters are all clogged up by now )... The only way you can slow down excessive evaporation is to use at least 15W40 oil and that would reduce the oil loss at least 50%... By the way check the EGR valve and clean it out!....
The thicker oils can damage theses newer style engines that have been being built for over 20 years because of the tight tolerance they have now and with variable valve timing ,the think oil can cause a lock up of certain moving parts.. .. I think he is having oil overeating and vaporizing problems with the oil the is using because it cannot take the heat along with some stuck rings .... ..
Oilseparator in valve cover !!??
I used Rislone One Seal Stop Leak on my tractor hydraulic system.. Does not do anything, except making the hydraulic oil full of foam..... Hope it does not damage the hydraulic pump . Big waste of money.
HI DAVE I'VE BEEN WATCHING YOUR OIL LOSS DELIMMA AND I KNOW THESE VIDEOS ARE OLD BUT LOOKING BACK ON HOW MUCH CARBON BUILD UP WAS ON TOP OF YOUR PISTONS WOULD BE INDICATIVE OF BUILD UP FROM COMBUSTION SIDE I KNOW YOU TRIED MARVEL MYSTERY OIL BEFORE BUT YOU SHOULD ADD TO YOUR GAS INSTEAD MARVEL IS A EXCELLENT TOP ENGINE CLEANER AND LUBRICANT I'VE USED IT FOR 50 YEARS IN ALL MY VEHICLES ONCE I USED SCOPE TO LOOK AT THE TOPS OF PISTONS AND FOUND THEM TO BE CLEAN WITH NO CARBON BUILD UP USE IT EVERY TIME YOU GAS UP IT WILL CLEAN THE TOP RINGS ON THE PISTONS I AM SPEAKING FROM 46 YEARS OF BEING A TECH/ADVISOR. NOW IF VALVE STEM SEALS ARE CRACKED OR WORN YOU WOULD SEE BLUE SMOKE ON COLD START HENCE OIL RUNS DOWN THE VALVE AND LANDS ON THE PISTON. SO, IF YOUR NOT SEEING OIL BLUE SMOKE ON COLD STARTS THE VALVE STEM SEALS IS NOT THE ISSUE. SAVE YOUR SELF SOME TIME AND HAVE A ENGINE TECHNICIAN RUN A WET AND DRY COMPRESSION TEST THAT WILL DETERMINE IF ITS RING BYPASS. ALSO DO A CYLINDER LEAK DOWN READING MOST OF TODAY'S MANUFACTURERS CONSIDER NORMAL OIL CONSUMPTION IS A QUART TO 1500 KM. YOUR OIL LOSS COULD BE A COMBINATION OF THINGS ALL CONTRIBUTING TO YOUR OIL LOSS. FEEL FREE TO CONVERSE WITH ME IF YOU NEED ADVISE
Will bars leak stop oil comp consumption of oil going into catalytic converter?
It might if the oil is coming from the valve stem oil seals, but usually it is used to stop external oil leaks.
0:50 That's some nasty piston slap!.. I know this is completely anecdotal, but my friends Pajero Jr used to smoke a bit of blue smoke and went through a considerable amount of oil even driving normally. I suggested changing the oil and revving it high and drive a bit 'spirited' à la Italian tune-up since it was previously owned by an elderly that probably never revved it above 3k rpm. Anyway, some 4 weeks of 7.5k rpm driving on the weekend actually seemed to helped the oil consumption and completely removed the smoke. I've read about this in some forums, people who race their oil burners can see decrease in oil consumption. I'm assuming this can free up the rings and remove some gunk from the oil control rings. Now, I don't think its the safest thing to do on this 1zz since the piston slap is already concerning, but this is just my 2c.
Thanks for all that Christian. Lots of good info.
You remind me of a joke someone told me once. A guy went out each morning and checked his oil level in his car. His neighbor saw this and after about a week the neighbors asks if it's low a quart. The man says yes, how did you know? The neighbor says well I figured you wiped that much off the dipstick checking it so much
Not far off the mark.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY running the oil that low is going to destroy any hope of rebuilding the engine
AT 205 is glycol ether if no one already commented that...