The cam phaser bolts are supposed to be torque to yield and you have to get them at the dealership. If you loosen the guide behind the phaser you can get the water pump out. I have done this both ways, taking phasers off and leaving them on… neither way is particularly fun 😂
One bolt in the center The bigger bolt on each cam is the torque to yield so 2 bolts Not sure if we showed that in the third vid I’d have to look You have the tool to hold the cams in place right?
The cam phaser solenoid has multiple bolts holding it on to the engine after you remove them then yes each cam has one torque to yield bolt. Sorry it’s been a while two cams per head.
We put the new oil pump in. The new water pump was fine but had a rattling noise few months after. Took it to a shop to get fixed because I didn’t have time and couple of bolts holding the timing chain tensioner on somehow broke off. When the shop tried to extract the bolts they cracked the block so it was no good. Don’t have the car anymore now.
That is the worst engine to work on it is a pain in the butt that front cover is got a lot of bolts and there are a lot of hidden bolts so be careful not to break the cover let me take it off I just did one on 2010 Ford it was not fun
The cam phaser bolts are supposed to be torque to yield and you have to get them at the dealership. If you loosen the guide behind the phaser you can get the water pump out. I have done this both ways, taking phasers off and leaving them on… neither way is particularly fun 😂
This whole job was not fun, glad the car is gone lol thanks for watching
Definitely not worth taking off the phaser unless it has a problem and needs replacement
So, you didnt have to take engine off mount to lower it up and down in order to get to everything?
Yea the mount on the passenger side was taken off
Quick question, did you evacuate the AC? I am thinking of doing this myself but on the naturally aspirated 3.5. Thanks
We didn’t do anything with the ac. We zip tied the one ac line out of the way that was in the way of taking the cover out.
With the cam phaser bolts when replacing. Was it just those 2 for the large sprockets? Or was it also the small sprocket bolts as well?
It is just the one bolt holding the phaser to the cam
@@jerayracing ok so just so I’m on the same page. When re assembling I will be replacing 4 torque to yield bolts?
One bolt in the center
The bigger bolt on each cam is the torque to yield so 2 bolts
Not sure if we showed that in the third vid I’d have to look
You have the tool to hold the cams in place right?
The cam phaser solenoid has multiple bolts holding it on to the engine after you remove them then yes each cam has one torque to yield bolt. Sorry it’s been a while two cams per head.
Why didnt you show us doing the work instead of after the fact?
We were trying to get it done I guess. Wasn’t trying to do a step for step how to but more of things to look for
How was/is your oil pump? And the update on the WP after service.
We put the new oil pump in. The new water pump was fine but had a rattling noise few months after. Took it to a shop to get fixed because I didn’t have time and couple of bolts holding the timing chain tensioner on somehow broke off. When the shop tried to extract the bolts they cracked the block so it was no good. Don’t have the car anymore now.
@@jerayracing What was Ford thinking?
Ford isn’t the only v6 like this. Definitely not a fan
That is the worst engine to work on it is a pain in the butt that front cover is got a lot of bolts and there are a lot of hidden bolts so be careful not to break the cover let me take it off I just did one on 2010 Ford it was not fun
Can you provide a link for the cam locking tools please?
I’m not sure where we got it but it is Lyle brand
How long did it take all together??
I think it was 15-20 hours. Probably could be done faster or slower based on your skills.