1 thing to consider when installing new strings with lock tuners is what tuning you will be using or if you will be constantly using different tunings. If you plan on going from c standard to e standard for example maybe give it a single wind around the tuning post before slotting, especially on the thicker strings as they move more while tuning. Idk if I explained this all too well but hey.
@@jeffrey6129 i'm pretty sure you can just tune to the range of the lower tuning - you can always tune up (within reason), but once you clip your string, you're limited on how low it'll go before running out of string 🤷♂you can always leave a little more slack than you need, it doesn't hurt anything - but too much slack kind of defeats the purpose of having locking tuners
Locking tuners should be on all guitars manufactured today! Save time and less tuning problems. I have change for locking tuners on all of my guitars and never look back :) Thanks for the video!
I used to think that they're bullshit. But I installed Schaller locking tuners on my Ibanez RG (fixed bridge) and it was a dream. Stays in tune like a well oiled machine.
They're getting more ubiquitous. I like the idea of putting them on all guitars from the factory because, if you don't like locking tuners, you can always either take out the thumbscrews in which case they're normal tuners or string up like you normally would and then tighten the thumbscrews just enough to avoid rattle.
The (maybe) improved tuning stability off locking tuners is a nice little added bonus. But the time and hassle they save you on re-stringing your guitar is what makes them a must have in my opinion. EVERY good guitar should come with locking tuners IMO. Even if it's a FR-Model with a locking nut.
IKR? Carefully winding your strings, pulling on them to make sure they stay in tune, nobody's got time for that. I love my Gotoh Magnums, They save so much time and I would never go back to regular tuners.
Once I got a guitar with locking tuners I was sold. I put them on my Christmas list for my other guitars. Getting older my eyes don't focus like they used to, my hands are a little shaky and I'm just a bit more clumsy in general. With locking tuners, if I can hit the hole I'm done.
As far as tuning stability goes, I’m amazed at how many guitarists don’t know how to stretch their strings in properly. Good video!! Thanks for the info on locking tuners, man!
Yep, I saw Herman Li explaining this on twitch. He says this is one of the reasons many people don't understand/like Floyd Rose bridges, you have to stretch the string before tuning it or it will go out of tune when you use the whammy.
I think what people mistake for string stretch is really the string taking a while to form the bends that the string must make at the bridge, nut and where it meets the tuning peg. One can speed this process greatly for a new string by pressing down on string in front of bridge saddles and on both sides of the nut and also press on the string at the tuner to help it make that tight 90 degree bend. Do this and you will greatly reduce the time it takes a new string to become stable.
Unless your guitar has a locking nut then locking tuners should be a given improvement. Honestly even though it seems like overkill, locking tuners on a guitar with a locking nut can offer easier string changes overall.
I think the thing I love most about my locking tuners is that they've made it much easier to change strings on my Bigsby-equipped guitars (to the point where I don't feel like I need two other people)
I just installed my first set of locking tuners (Grover) on an Epiphone LP. I fell in love with them if only for how quickly it enables you to change strings. I have since ordered 5 more sets to install on all my Fender guitars.
One of the biggest misconceptions and myths of the guitar world (and there are a *lot* ), is that locking tuners directly increase tuning stability and will fix all tuning problems. That is not the case. The _only_ reason a locking tuner might help tuning stability is that there are no wraps around the pole piece that can expand and contract. If you have too many windings around a normal tuning post and they overlap, the strings will start to expand and contract against each other adding to the friction at the contact points and the possibility that they will not return back to proper pitch. The expensive locking tuners are also usually made of high quality material and are better made compared to the tuners getting replaced so that also adds to the misconceptions. String slippage will rarely, if ever at all, occur with a proper over/under etc. string locking technique and normal tuners. The nut and bridge have much more to do with tuning stability than the tuners themselves, and those are often the offenders when it comes to tuning problems. The biggest plus, and intention, of locking tuners is to significantly decrease the amount of time it takes to change strings. They make the process so fast and efficient. Gigging musicians who change their strings regularly or who are on tour will benefit the most from them, but for hobby bedroom players who don't do changes frequently (weekly/monthly) it's a decision to make if the expense it worth it because they are more of a convenience item and they don't give as much of a practical tuning stability increase as others tend to believe. The nut and bridge. Those are the focus points unless it's clear and obvious the tuners are worn out and the gears themselves are slipping due to wear.
A long long time ago, in a galaxy far far away, I thought locking tuners meant that they locked into whatever pitch... In other words, you couldn't turn the knob, and it couldn't move up or down. ... Such duhh.
I've noticed an improvement to my tuning stability on guitars with a tremolo system, even when accounting for lubricating the nut and saddles etc. I'm not saying it went from awful to perfect, but it was noticeable to my ears and confirmed with a strobe tuner
@@wyssmaster I recently got a guitar with a tremolo, are you saying I'll have less problems going out of tune with these tuners than with the tuners that came with the guitar.
@@PenguinNoodleSoup If your guitar has a standard non-locking tremolo! Tuning is more stable not having to wrap the string around the post! Btw the way if you have a locking trem, they were designed to help the guitar stay in tune! And once the guitar is in tune the nut is locked now making the tuner irrelevant! All fine tuning is made from the bridge location!
I don't have any problems with tuning stability with any of my guitars. I just stretch them good when I change them. The only benefit of locking tuners is if you have multiple guitars, and you change the strings in them every month. Locking tuners will save time when you change strings, or if you break one, on stage. I always use 18:1 standard tuners.
I agree. A locking tuner does nothing more than save you the hassle of correctly wrapping the string around the tuners. There is no string slippage if one correctly wraps the strings. Also given the gear ration the act of increasing tension on strings cannot possibly unwind the strings or cause it to slip. Most tuning problems arise from the string binding at the nut and not stretching strings correctly. Most people would benefit more from installing a TUSQ nut and removing the string trees.
As one who repairs and upgrades guitars, if you are going to upgrade the nut to a TUSQ, then also upgrade the trees to either the TUSQ equivalent, or use polished roller trees. The angle of the strings under the trees are there for a reason. When you remove the trees completely, the angle is changed in relation to the nut and you may get unwanted harmonic overtones, or a kind of sitar effect. Good video and info, StringJoy.
Sandarpan While you are correct, on guitars that have a tremolo with no locking nut they can make a significant difference. Adding tension on the string won't really cause slippage but taking tension away the way a tremolo does can loosen wraps slightly even when properly wound and can definitely affect your tuning, so locking tuners are a good remedy for this as long as your nut is lubed good and you don't have or want a locking nut.
I hadn't tried locking tuners until I started buying Carvin guitars about ten years ago. I absolutely love them when it comes time to change strings. It takes me about 1/4 the time that it usually would. As far as staying in tune better… I'd say that in my experience they're a little better, but I wouldn't expect a giant difference.
Locking tuners are a good upgrade but what a lot of players overlook is the nut. I always use graphite or pencil lead in the string grooves when replacing strings because graphite is a natural lubrication when friction is involved with metal or any other hard material.
I heard about that graphite in the nut slots when I was gigging years ago and yep, saves the strings from sticking there. Especially helpful with a Strat+trem. Great shout out.
Locking tuners are awesome and I put them on all my guitars. They're nice on six strings but an absolute necessity for extended range guitars. They're a lot cheaper nowadays, too, with good quality tuners being available for less than $30
I use them on my Fender Strats in order to reduce tuning issues. Otherwise, I stick to the popular standard brand tuners if replacements are needed. But keep in mind it is only just one step in correcting possible tuning issues. As was briefly mentioned the string nut and bridge can also be a source of tuning issues depending on the design and condition and amount of wear over time.
This is so much better, i hate changing strings on my non locking tuners, getting the wrap around right is a real pain, locking tuners is definitely the way to go!
I'm a vintage tuner guy for Strats and Teles. Gotoh makes a great locking tuner that looks the same at a glance and adds almost no mass. I discovered them on my first Grosh and use them on all my builds now. Plus, ease of string changes compared to the old vintage with the hole hole in the top is a major improvement for me, but I'm a klutz.
Using a 7 string in drop F with a 74 for your low F string basically makes locking tuners a necessity. Especially when played aggressively. I’m going to upgrade to them immediately.
i am slightly dyslexic ...and for nearly 40 yrs ...i have always had trouble changing strings...cant tell if i have wrapped them under or over ...how many winds ...or even which way to go ...locking tuners are a real godsend ....i know they didnt market them for me ..but i am once happy camper with these on my axes
In this case though... There's really not much added.. just the lock knob, lol... I've had them on several guitars for years.. And I ain't goin back! The time saving alone is enough.. now I don't even need to have a cutter.
Just got my first guitar with locking tuners. It seems to me that any alternate tuning (other than perhaps drop D) would be problematic with locking tuners due to not enough slack or extra being left on the tuning pegs. Thoughts, anyone?
I am about to install locking tuners and am wondering the same thing. I play open tunings and am considering a little slack in the string to accommodate the different tensions. Anyone else do this?
Based on your description I was convinced I didn't care to upgrade. But after watching you actually change the string, I'm 100% sold. My headstocks have a bunch of scratches on them from me wrapping the strings around. With locking tuners I won't have to worry about that.
I have an old Peavey Predator that I could not keep in tune when using the tremolo so I hard tailed it. I'm putting locking tuners on it and will be freeing up the tremolo. Plus I'm installing Rose pickups with a blender circuit. Should be fun...
Is there a practical reason other than cost for some of the bowed string instruments to keep having friction-based tuners rather than gear-based tuners?
Never having an issue with tuning stability on my Gibson SG. No locking tuners. Just properly slotted nut. My G&L USA Legacy Special has Sperzel Locking tuners and i like it because of how easy to change strings. Locking tuners to me is just a supplement to a properly slotted nut and faster string changes.
The only reason i would consider putting them on would be if locking tuners would hold better tuning while using tremolo bar. I imagine the wraps wouldn't loosen or tighten because you don't really need to wrap the strings. Would a roller nut and locking tuners be best for this desired outcome?
I have a 1991 Fender Stratplus and the Schaller locking tuners work the same as the day i got it, no problems. I had to tighten up the buttons a couple of times but that's it. Just bought some Fender stamped locking tuners for my MIM player Tele, going to get them tomorrow.
I'm a gigging guitarist and I have them for the sole purpose of making on-the-fly string break changes faster. I haven't found them to be more or less stable than normal tuners in terms of tuning, but they're definitely more convenient and worth having for your gigging/most frequently played guitars.
I have Sperzel locking tuners on my Squier Pro Tone. They are some of the original locking tuners on the market and they weren't cheap. I recommend them on guitars with tremelos and they definitely make string change easier. My strat will stay near perfect tune for weeks at a time but I am not sure I would put them on a high end or vintage guitar or Acoustic although they would work great. Remember the bridge and nut can also affect tuning stability but good tuners are a big help. Cheap tuners with backlash in the gears will be problematic locking or not although you can now find decent tuners without spending an arm or leg like I did.
Just replaced my gforce auto tuner on my LP with locking Grover’s, I’m in love, next guitar to get this up grade will be my Strat. Every guitar should come standard with these. I won’t put them on my Taylor but on my electric guitars....yeah.
I just did the same thing. GForce tuners look good on paper, but I couldn't bond with them. I put a set of Kluson Revolution locking tuners on my Les Paul. I really like them and I plan on putting a set on my SG.
I have 12 guitars in my collection. I changed all of them with lockers. Best thing I ever did. A lot of touring guitar techs had their own method of stringing strings which drove me crazy.
How about a video on why many acoustics and other instruments have open machine head gears instead of the closed ones most electrics have? Or is this too far removed from being a string-related topic?
Kevin Benoit So you can get your fingers pinched! The a-hole manufacturers are putting open gear tuners on their acoustic guitars. This is for that “retro” thing they are copying now from the 1930’s. I hate it. The 1960’s Grover closed back tuners are wonderful. A very nice gear ratio for tuning, Also, we will have to put up with this open gear crap for 20 years until the tide changes back to closed gear. I also hate nitrocellulose finishes. Raised in the Midwest, people put their guitars in the trunk of their car and drove to a gig, the freezing cold winter and opening up the case indoors cracked the nitrocellulose finished into thousands of ugly cracks. Today’s lacquer finishes are much more durable. The flat satin finish necks feel wonderful. Less chance for slippage if your hands sweat. I also hate fake aged yellowing to finishes, such as a maple fretboard. They way over due the yellowing. I also hate road worn finishes that fake the guitar being old with sweat worn fingerboards, chipped and sanded off finishes and fake rusted hardware. Guitars are beautiful instruments that should be cared for and kept in top shape.
@@thomaspick4123 I have to disagree. Open gear tuners are lighter and that matters for acoustic guitars which have significantly lighter weight bodies than majority of electrics. Nitro finishes, as fragile as they are, feel to me much better than satin poly and gloss poly is just making guitar much worse in terms of playability. Nitro cracks are not ugly at all, in fact many high-end modern brands try to replicate that by hand using razor blades, which adds huge price (and I personally don't get why people pay so much for fake cracks, but if anything, they have full right to do so). Anyway both open gears and nitro finishes have their advantages far beyond just being traditional.
I’ve been playing professionally for 20 years, and I’ve always used the old school Kluson tuners because they look cool, but I finally got sick of tuning all 6 strings after EVERY song. I’ve had locking tuners on my #1 for a little over a month now, and while the tuning stability is no longer an issue at all, the added weight from the headstock is definitely distracting during solos, especially in the upper registers, and my left-hand vibrato isn’t as loose as I like.
I have used locking tuners for years on electric guitars and find that they work quite well. I wonder in the long term if the pin mechanism may get worn out. I also wonder whether the signal is slightly “degraded” because of the lack of the mass around the string post.
Let’s...not give the manufacturers an excuse to start making crappy locking tuners vs “these higher quality $125 sets”. If locking tuners came on all of them there’d be people in suits to exploit the market and we’d lose.
I use locking tuners but I actually do wrap the string around the post once because I've got flat wounds and I don't trust that clamp to hold a flatwound down. That said I wind it around the peg twice, *then* run it through the peg hole and then clamp it down. Then it's tuned in just a few turns.
I'm doing a total mod on a '97 Squire Affinity Strat. Between proper winding and stretching I don't have slipping issues at the tuners but with this mod I DO have an upper budget limit. Skipping a feature I don't need gives me a bit more money to put into pickups. Thanks for the video!
I just got a Mitchell ms450 it came with lock ing tuners haven't changed the strings yet on my other guitars I have standard tuners l use a Luthierknot when l put on new strings never had a problem with slipping or staying in tune, the lock ln tuners are kinda nifty 🎶🎵
Adds a little bit of weight to the head stock? That's a really sensitive ability to detect the added wight of locking tuners. I never noticed. My Strat's as balanced as any I've played. The only real advantage to locking tuners is the time and effort it takes to change a string. They are worth it.
I got a set of Gotohs on my ESP CTM and they are awesome! I wish I had tried them a long time ago! Now I just need a set for my Les Pauls. Maybe be able to get that damn G string ghost out of them.
I guess my question is would using locking tuners help keep a guitar that's not equipped with a locking nut stay in tune better while using a tremolo as oppose to using regular tuners?
I know a lot of people are really swearing by the evertune system, have you had any experience with that and how it might help keep your guitar in tune even better?
Did you know some of The Schaller type sealed tuners tout themselves as locking tuners as well. It's claimed that after you tune them up, you simply tighten the tiny Phillips head screw on the end of the tuning peg handle and it locks it down. Seemed to work for alot of units. Give it a try.
I have vintage style fender, standard fender, and locking style fender tuners. I really like the fender locking tuners the best. I wish they could make them look like the vintage tuners but we can't always get what we want.
Just put locking tuners on my strat it stayed in tune well before and still does the main difference is a full string change takes a couple of minutes from none to on and stretched and tuned and that alone is worth the money being able to change a set twice as fast oh and no need for string trees which is also a nice bonus
I put locking tuners on most of my better guitars and certainly all my work guitars. It makes changing strings so much easier and faster. Out tune problems I always blamed the nut and I put bone nuts on all of my guitars. I noticed some of my work guitars still went in and out there of tune. When you did a few bends the post wrap would loosen up and tighten up. It was the tuners and replacing them fix that. Another great video Steve.
think I've missed something here...if you don't wind it round the post, how do you tune down to C standard say, without the string trying to wind the other way!
When you put the string through the tuner you tighten up the lock and lock the string on. The string is only hand tight , then you tighten it to tune going through C and all the other notes therefore you just tune back down to C etc.
Good video. No mention of tremelo arm use though, surely that's a major reason to opt for locking heads for non Floyd rose type electric guitars, which is where you don't really want the string coiled round.
With standard tuners I have a hard time changing strings because I have had them break on me while putting them on. I might switch to locking tuners so I can put them on and then tune them.
Scott , I was the person who asked for this video. Thanks for the time & effort. You answered all my questions about locking guitar tuners. I've been playing guitar for almost forty years & your videos have addressed many issues i have always been curious about. I've used another companies strings for most of my playing years but have been very pleased to make the switch to Stringjoy.
I think it depends on the situation if they're worth it or not. For example, if you buy a lower end guitar that comes with cheap tuners that don't stay in tune very well, it'd be worth upgrading the tuners to at least some better quality tuners, and while you're at it you could get locking tuners if you wanted them. Or if you have a decent quality, but still doesn't stay in tune very well, like a Gibson style guitar, then locking tuners might help fix that. Also if you have a strat or a guitar with a strat style trem system, locking tuners might help with the tuning stability.
Hey Brother. Your vid was the most instructive vid on the locking tuners. Thank you. I appreciate the pros and cons, gotta have those. Thank you again. Dirt
I am trying to upgrade my tuners on my ESP LTD EC-256 from gold to chrome hardware. My tuners, Grover locking tuners 406C, are holding the about 3mm lower than the originals. This is my first time changing tuners and I wanted to know if anyone could tell me if that would be a problem?
Many years ago, I tried Fender-made locking tuners for about $100.00. I did everything you mentioned, and they worked great. However, I was told to just tighten the locking nut snuggly, and not over tighten it. Well, that is hard to judge how much to make it just snug. I tighten a little too snug and broke the locking tuner. Fender did not sell single locking tuners, so my entire 6-string set was now junk. Is there today a brand of locking tuners for acoustic guitar that is way more durable and do not break so easily?
I put locking tuners on all my guitars. Even my acoustics. If your guitar uses cheap tuners and you upgrade with good locking tuners, you'll notice a change for the better. But there are good non locking tuners that function as well as locking tuners. Even still you gain the advantage of being easier to change strings with locking tuners so it's a win win for not much money. I think grover locking 502c are the best.
I have locking tuners on all my electric guitars and have been considering putting them on my main (not expensive) acoustic but I don't think I've ever seen locking tuners on acoustics before and I'm not sure why...
I had locking tuners on one of my flying v's right away I noticed neck dive. I tried to get used to it because of the convenience of the locking tuners, could'nt so just be aware of that possibility.
@@morgandavis5401 Neck dive is when you have a guitar strap on ,..your in a standing position,... and your guitar neck( at the head stock end) dives downward towards the floor.
I have experimented with 2 steel plates that I rubber coated and double stick tapped to the lower inside V to stop that without the locking tuners. Worked. Didn't notice anything different with my tone. About to install a TP6 tailpiece on my Michael Schenker V. Was going to use locking tuners but may use a locking nut instead now. A low profile Kahler.
Thanks, Stringjoy. I got my set in the mail (gold with pearl handles) and I thought they were just toys. Very small, no directions included, and the pearl handles are quite small as though built for a Fender Strat or something! I like how you said "trying to determine" because I'm still not sure.
Love my locking tuners. I use them on my Sheraton hollow body and my Takamine acoustic.My main reason is quick string changes as I change strings for every gig and if I have 2 gigs in a day ( summer weekends) I'll change the D and G between gigs as I break these a lot!.
Once you figure out how to use string itself to lock the string, locking tuners become pointless. I have standard tuners on all my guitars with only a half wrap around the post and zero tuning, slippage issues.
I like the method of using the string to lock onto itself demonstrated in a video by Martin Guitars (for Acoustic but works fine for electric). They use a minimal number of turns; that makes it easier to keep the tension while winding on. That method might lend itself to half a turn like you say. Provided it remains locked when loosening a little (maybe for making any adjustment's at the bridge) it should work fine. I guess Locking tuners do make string changes easier for most people.
If and this is a BIG if........your tuners are of the locking type and your nut is properly slotted and you have your trem locked down to the body , the only friction point is your string tree , saddle and nut. Can't see an issue with the saddles if they are lubed and smooth. Can't see an issue with the string tree if its lubed. Can't see and issue with the nut if it's properly slotted and lubed it to make it more slippery. If you have a plastic nut then all bets are off. My explanation only applies to bone nuts and stratocasters. If everything is covered then your strat should stay in tune + or - 5 cents. Oh and stretch your strings after new install.
will i be able to easily swap to alternate tunings? as in low E string to D or to F, worried about the small amount of slack leftover when used with a locking tuner
No problem! I have Grover locking tuners, and tuning down to D is no problem. When you pull a string through the peg hole, and then lock it with the rear thumbscrew clasp, the string is too floppy to even produce an audible note, so the lowest pitch for any string is “floppy”. Just be sure to not pull the string too tight before you lock it, which would require about 15 lbs of tension to pull a 10 gauge string to D. Not likely
One drawback is that if you change tunings on the fly, your string will break. The spooling effect of "normal" will let you tune up and down without the temper break occurring. I used to use Sperzels but now I use ratio "normal" tuners.
I agree that it can be overkill, but for me it’s just one less thing to worry about. Im considering getting a set of locking tuners for my 2008 Ibanez Gio, mostly because it’s the guitar I use for drop A# and winding the thickest string can be complicated- Ive never been good at winding to begin with, and thicker strings are even harder to manage. Ive tried lots of locking/kinking wrap techniques, but the low string still ends up unstable. Most recently, I restrung it with a set of Stringjoy 12-64, and even after a couple days of stretching and playing, it kept fluctuating and I had to retune it a lot. It’s doing better now, a couple weeks later, but I think I should just eliminate the hassle. Or maybe I’ll just rewatch your string change video... I dunno. Its funny how this Gio my mom got at a Goodwill for 60$ has turned into my downtuned weapon of mass destruction Im now having to upgrade for it to keep up.
Major advantage: I'm very lazy when changing my strings...I hate it! Got my eye on some Grover Roto-Grips.😁 Doubt I'll notice the weight on my Les Paul.
I had been playing guitar for 2 1/2 years before someone clued me in about stretching strings. I thought I had a crappy guitar, it just turns out that nobody ever taught me how to change strings the right way. Ever since I got my first set of locking tuners, I've made it a priority to put them on every guitar I own. Changing strings the old fashioned way feels really tedious once you've gotten used to them.
When you've got a lot of guitars, the time saving alone is great, like someone mentioned that if you have to do several at once.. way, WAY faster. Pull it tight through the hole.. lock the back, and with the tuners I have been getting, I don't even need the cutter anymore! Done! Fastest string change ever! It's CONSIDERABLY faster... Not just by a little bit.
Thanks for watching! If you're trying to determine whether locking tuners are the right move for you, I hope this video is helpful!
They make it so they will SlipKnot. (Sorry for the pun) But now when I get locking tuners, I know how too change them correctly.
That's all that counts!
yep
Why did you show the wrong way?
I put some locking tuners on my guitar. When tuned it up the High E broke when i got to D#, I'm using 9's. Does anyone have a solution to this?
"add a little weight"
*looks at my Les Paul*
Change to les Paul jr
My Strats weights 5kg..I feel you man
hahahaha
@@redfox7497 strats are nowhere near as heavy as les pauls lol
@@redfox7497 kg? What is this in freedom units?
1 thing to consider when installing new strings with lock tuners is what tuning you will be using or if you will be constantly using different tunings. If you plan on going from c standard to e standard for example maybe give it a single wind around the tuning post before slotting, especially on the thicker strings as they move more while tuning. Idk if I explained this all too well but hey.
Excellent point.
Thanks
Is there a vid that explains how to do it properly?
you explained it fine. i like to go between standard and dadgad and was already keeping that in mind
@@jeffrey6129 i'm pretty sure you can just tune to the range of the lower tuning - you can always tune up (within reason), but once you clip your string, you're limited on how low it'll go before running out of string 🤷♂you can always leave a little more slack than you need, it doesn't hurt anything - but too much slack kind of defeats the purpose of having locking tuners
Locking tuners should be on all guitars manufactured today! Save time and less tuning problems. I have change for locking tuners on all of my guitars and never look back :) Thanks for the video!
I do dig them as well, largely for convenience sake on my end. May look to add some to one or two other guitars eventually.
I used to think that they're bullshit. But I installed Schaller locking tuners on my Ibanez RG (fixed bridge) and it was a dream. Stays in tune like a well oiled machine.
They're getting more ubiquitous. I like the idea of putting them on all guitars from the factory because, if you don't like locking tuners, you can always either take out the thumbscrews in which case they're normal tuners or string up like you normally would and then tighten the thumbscrews just enough to avoid rattle.
karol walczak I agree.
No one makes locking tuners that look the same as the current tuners on my guitar.
I got myself locking tuners on one of my guitars and they do the job! I' m bending strings all the time and stay tune 98% .
lol, I'll get em cause now if I even look at my whammy bar, all the strings change anywhere from 1 to 4 steps IN EITHER DIRECTION
@@Phyoomz Your intonation is way off. Maybe truss rodd as well. Also make sure Rose is paralell to the guitar body.
locking tuner is heaven if you having a few guitars to restring at the same time.
I believe that! It certainly speeds things up.
The (maybe) improved tuning stability off locking tuners is a nice little added bonus. But the time and hassle they save you on re-stringing your guitar is what makes them a must have in my opinion.
EVERY good guitar should come with locking tuners IMO. Even if it's a FR-Model with a locking nut.
IKR? Carefully winding your strings, pulling on them to make sure they stay in tune, nobody's got time for that. I love my Gotoh Magnums, They save so much time and I would never go back to regular tuners.
Once I got a guitar with locking tuners I was sold. I put them on my Christmas list for my other guitars. Getting older my eyes don't focus like they used to, my hands are a little shaky and I'm just a bit more clumsy in general. With locking tuners, if I can hit the hole I'm done.
I'm all about anything that makes life easier!
Hitting the hole usually gets it done for me too. Sorry, I can't pass up an opportunity to make a dirty joke.
@@teakvandergarderen2973 thanks beavis....huh ...cool
that's what she said...
As far as tuning stability goes, I’m amazed at how many guitarists don’t know how to stretch their strings in properly. Good video!! Thanks for the info on locking tuners, man!
Yep, I saw Herman Li explaining this on twitch.
He says this is one of the reasons many people don't understand/like Floyd Rose bridges, you have to stretch the string before tuning it or it will go out of tune when you use the whammy.
I think what people mistake for string stretch is really the string taking a while to form the bends that the string must make at the bridge, nut and where it meets the tuning peg. One can speed this process greatly for a new string by pressing down on string in front of bridge saddles and on both sides of the nut and also press on the string at the tuner to help it make that tight 90 degree bend. Do this and you will greatly reduce the time it takes a new string to become stable.
this is exactly right.
Unless your guitar has a locking nut then locking tuners should be a given improvement. Honestly even though it seems like overkill, locking tuners on a guitar with a locking nut can offer easier string changes overall.
hell, get locking tuners and a locking nut!
@@pineapplej7310 I'd rather go with locking tuners and rolling nut+saddles, eliminate all the friction
I think the thing I love most about my locking tuners is that they've made it much easier to change strings on my Bigsby-equipped guitars (to the point where I don't feel like I need two other people)
Never thought i would care about locking tuners until i got some. Would never go back now.
Love my locking tuners. Makes changing strings so easy, and yes they stay in tune much better.
I just installed my first set of locking tuners (Grover) on an Epiphone LP. I fell in love with them if only for how quickly it enables you to change strings. I have since ordered 5 more sets to install on all my Fender guitars.
One of the biggest misconceptions and myths of the guitar world (and there are a *lot* ), is that locking tuners directly increase tuning stability and will fix all tuning problems. That is not the case. The _only_ reason a locking tuner might help tuning stability is that there are no wraps around the pole piece that can expand and contract. If you have too many windings around a normal tuning post and they overlap, the strings will start to expand and contract against each other adding to the friction at the contact points and the possibility that they will not return back to proper pitch. The expensive locking tuners are also usually made of high quality material and are better made compared to the tuners getting replaced so that also adds to the misconceptions. String slippage will rarely, if ever at all, occur with a proper over/under etc. string locking technique and normal tuners. The nut and bridge have much more to do with tuning stability than the tuners themselves, and those are often the offenders when it comes to tuning problems. The biggest plus, and intention, of locking tuners is to significantly decrease the amount of time it takes to change strings. They make the process so fast and efficient. Gigging musicians who change their strings regularly or who are on tour will benefit the most from them, but for hobby bedroom players who don't do changes frequently (weekly/monthly) it's a decision to make if the expense it worth it because they are more of a convenience item and they don't give as much of a practical tuning stability increase as others tend to believe. The nut and bridge. Those are the focus points unless it's clear and obvious the tuners are worn out and the gears themselves are slipping due to wear.
A long long time ago, in a galaxy far far away, I thought locking tuners meant that they locked into whatever pitch... In other words, you couldn't turn the knob, and it couldn't move up or down.
... Such duhh.
@@atakdragonfly1675 that's me 10 min ago lol.
The best thing about locking tuners is how easy it makes changing your strings. I don't see a huge advantage otherwise.
Sean Oxton +1
I've noticed an improvement to my tuning stability on guitars with a tremolo system, even when accounting for lubricating the nut and saddles etc. I'm not saying it went from awful to perfect, but it was noticeable to my ears and confirmed with a strobe tuner
Most tuning problems are a result of a bad nut or improper depth/width cuts in the nut.
@@wyssmaster I recently got a guitar with a tremolo, are you saying I'll have less problems going out of tune with these tuners than with the tuners that came with the guitar.
@@PenguinNoodleSoup If your guitar has a standard non-locking tremolo! Tuning is more stable not having to wrap the string around the post! Btw the way if you have a locking trem, they were designed to help the guitar stay in tune! And once the guitar is in tune the nut is locked now making the tuner irrelevant! All fine tuning is made from the bridge location!
I don't have any problems with tuning stability with any of my guitars. I just stretch them good when I change them. The only benefit of locking tuners is if you have multiple guitars, and you change the strings in them every month. Locking tuners will save time when you change strings, or if you break one, on stage. I always use 18:1 standard tuners.
I agree. A locking tuner does nothing more than save you the hassle of correctly wrapping the string around the tuners. There is no string slippage if one correctly wraps the strings. Also given the gear ration the act of increasing tension on strings cannot possibly unwind the strings or cause it to slip. Most tuning problems arise from the string binding at the nut and not stretching strings correctly. Most people would benefit more from installing a TUSQ nut and removing the string trees.
I completely agree.
As one who repairs and upgrades guitars, if you are going to upgrade the nut to a TUSQ, then also upgrade the trees to either the TUSQ equivalent, or use polished roller trees. The angle of the strings under the trees are there for a reason. When you remove the trees completely, the angle is changed in relation to the nut and you may get unwanted harmonic overtones, or a kind of sitar effect. Good video and info, StringJoy.
Sandarpan While you are correct, on guitars that have a tremolo with no locking nut they can make a significant difference. Adding tension on the string won't really cause slippage but taking tension away the way a tremolo does can loosen wraps slightly even when properly wound and can definitely affect your tuning, so locking tuners are a good remedy for this as long as your nut is lubed good and you don't have or want a locking nut.
@@Majik53 Or use staggered tuners that can keep the correct string angle without trees
@@Sandarpan Excellent point. I have staggerd locking tuners on my mexi-strat.
Absolutely solved my tuning issues with a Les Paul and a Jackson with Floyd Rose tremolo.
I hadn't tried locking tuners until I started buying Carvin guitars about ten years ago. I absolutely love them when it comes time to change strings. It takes me about 1/4 the time that it usually would. As far as staying in tune better… I'd say that in my experience they're a little better, but I wouldn't expect a giant difference.
I've been playing since the 1960s and my luthier has converted me to locking tuners just today. Thanks for the helpful video.
draw back: when using floyd bridge with locking saddles, you don't have much string left when it breaks
there is if you leave some string when cutting. it is not aesthetically pleasing, but works
Locking tuners are a good upgrade but what a lot of players overlook is the nut. I always use graphite or pencil lead in the string grooves when replacing strings because graphite is a natural lubrication when friction is involved with metal or any other hard material.
Good call!
I heard about that graphite in the nut slots when I was gigging years ago and yep, saves the strings from sticking there. Especially helpful with a Strat+trem. Great shout out.
100 percent worth it. I swapped Fender Player series tuners for the Fender locking and Wow it stays in tune a ton better.
Locking tuners are awesome and I put them on all my guitars. They're nice on six strings but an absolute necessity for extended range guitars. They're a lot cheaper nowadays, too, with good quality tuners being available for less than $30
Changing your strings in a few minutes is priceless. Stick it, clamp it, cut it, turn it, DONE.
I use them on my Fender Strats in order to reduce tuning issues. Otherwise, I stick to the popular standard brand tuners if replacements are needed. But keep in mind it is only just one step in correcting possible tuning issues.
As was briefly mentioned the string nut and bridge can also be a source of tuning issues depending on the design and condition and amount of wear over time.
This is so much better, i hate changing strings on my non locking tuners, getting the wrap around right is a real pain, locking tuners is definitely the way to go!
I'm a vintage tuner guy for Strats and Teles. Gotoh makes a great locking tuner that looks the same at a glance and adds almost no mass. I discovered them on my first Grosh and use them on all my builds now. Plus, ease of string changes compared to the old vintage with the hole hole in the top is a major improvement for me, but I'm a klutz.
I love locking tuners. String changes are so much quicker.
Using a 7 string in drop F with a 74 for your low F string basically makes locking tuners a necessity. Especially when played aggressively. I’m going to upgrade to them immediately.
i am slightly dyslexic ...and for nearly 40 yrs ...i have always had trouble changing strings...cant tell if i have wrapped them under or over ...how many winds ...or even which way to go ...locking tuners are a real godsend ....i know they didnt market them for me ..but i am once happy camper with these on my axes
So true about how having more things going on means more things there are to go wrong.
In this case though... There's really not much added.. just the lock knob, lol... I've had them on several guitars for years.. And I ain't goin back! The time saving alone is enough.. now I don't even need to have a cutter.
Just got my first guitar with locking tuners. It seems to me that any alternate tuning (other than perhaps drop D) would be problematic with locking tuners due to not enough slack or extra being left on the tuning pegs. Thoughts, anyone?
I am about to install locking tuners and am wondering the same thing. I play open tunings and am considering a little slack in the string to accommodate the different tensions. Anyone else do this?
Can you change tuning if you have a floating bridge with locked nuts?
Based on your description I was convinced I didn't care to upgrade. But after watching you actually change the string, I'm 100% sold. My headstocks have a bunch of scratches on them from me wrapping the strings around. With locking tuners I won't have to worry about that.
Yep they're pretty handy in that way
I have an old Peavey Predator that I could not keep in tune when using the tremolo so I hard tailed it. I'm putting locking tuners on it and will be freeing up the tremolo. Plus I'm installing Rose pickups with a blender circuit. Should be fun...
Is there a practical reason other than cost for some of the bowed string instruments to keep having friction-based tuners rather than gear-based tuners?
I've actually never understood this either. I don't think it's cost so much as it is tradition.
Friction based tuners make me cringe when I turn them I feel like the damn thing is gonna break apart
Yeah I feel the same way....
Yeah, it felt that way with the cello I rented for a couple weeks.
Never having an issue with tuning stability on my Gibson SG. No locking tuners. Just properly slotted nut. My G&L USA Legacy Special has Sperzel Locking tuners and i like it because of how easy to change strings. Locking tuners to me is just a supplement to a properly slotted nut and faster string changes.
The only reason i would consider putting them on would be if locking tuners would hold better tuning while using tremolo bar. I imagine the wraps wouldn't loosen or tighten because you don't really need to wrap the strings. Would a roller nut and locking tuners be best for this desired outcome?
Yes, they are great. Especially for fast string changes.
I have a 1991 Fender Stratplus and the Schaller locking tuners work the same as the day i got it, no problems. I had to tighten up the buttons a couple of times but that's it. Just bought some Fender stamped locking tuners for my MIM player Tele, going to get them tomorrow.
I'm a gigging guitarist and I have them for the sole purpose of making on-the-fly string break changes faster. I haven't found them to be more or less stable than normal tuners in terms of tuning, but they're definitely more convenient and worth having for your gigging/most frequently played guitars.
I have Sperzel locking tuners on my Squier Pro Tone. They are some of the original locking tuners on the market and they weren't cheap. I recommend them on guitars with tremelos and they definitely make string change easier. My strat will stay near perfect tune for weeks at a time but I am not sure I would put them on a high end or vintage guitar or Acoustic although they would work great. Remember the bridge and nut can also affect tuning stability but good tuners are a big help. Cheap tuners with backlash in the gears will be problematic locking or not although you can now find decent tuners without spending an arm or leg like I did.
Thanks man, just picked up a white falcon and it has my first locking tuners. Been playing old school for 45 years, learning still!
Just replaced my gforce auto tuner on my LP with locking Grover’s, I’m in love, next guitar to get this up grade will be my Strat. Every guitar should come standard with these. I won’t put them on my Taylor but on my electric guitars....yeah.
I just did the same thing. GForce tuners look good on paper, but I couldn't bond with them. I put a set of Kluson Revolution locking tuners on my Les Paul. I really like them and I plan on putting a set on my SG.
I have 12 guitars in my collection. I changed all of them with lockers. Best thing I ever did. A lot of touring guitar techs had their own method of stringing strings which drove me crazy.
How about a video on why many acoustics and other instruments have open machine head gears instead of the closed ones most electrics have? Or is this too far removed from being a string-related topic?
Not too far removed, I just don't know if there's much to talk about there! As far as I know there isn't much reason for that other than tradition.
Kevin Benoit So you can get your fingers pinched! The a-hole manufacturers are putting open gear tuners on their acoustic guitars. This is for that “retro” thing they are copying now from the 1930’s. I hate it. The 1960’s Grover closed back tuners are wonderful. A very nice gear ratio for tuning, Also, we will have to put up with this open gear crap for 20 years until the tide changes back to closed gear. I also hate nitrocellulose finishes. Raised in the Midwest, people put their guitars in the trunk of their car and drove to a gig, the freezing cold winter and opening up the case indoors cracked the nitrocellulose finished into thousands of ugly cracks. Today’s lacquer finishes are much more durable. The flat satin finish necks feel wonderful. Less chance for slippage if your hands sweat. I also hate fake aged yellowing to finishes, such as a maple fretboard. They way over due the yellowing. I also hate road worn finishes that fake the guitar being old with sweat worn fingerboards, chipped and sanded off finishes and fake rusted hardware. Guitars are beautiful instruments that should be cared for and kept in top shape.
@@thomaspick4123 I have to disagree. Open gear tuners are lighter and that matters for acoustic guitars which have significantly lighter weight bodies than majority of electrics. Nitro finishes, as fragile as they are, feel to me much better than satin poly and gloss poly is just making guitar much worse in terms of playability. Nitro cracks are not ugly at all, in fact many high-end modern brands try to replicate that by hand using razor blades, which adds huge price (and I personally don't get why people pay so much for fake cracks, but if anything, they have full right to do so).
Anyway both open gears and nitro finishes have their advantages far beyond just being traditional.
@@ThorneyedWT They're the same folks who buy relic'd guitars and "stressed" jeans.
I’ve been playing professionally for 20 years, and I’ve always used the old school Kluson tuners because they look cool, but I finally got sick of tuning all 6 strings after EVERY song. I’ve had locking tuners on my #1 for a little over a month now, and while the tuning stability is no longer an issue at all, the added weight from the headstock is definitely distracting during solos, especially in the upper registers, and my left-hand vibrato isn’t as loose as I like.
Hi from England. Locking tuners. I have them on all my guitars. Stainless steel frets yes, roller bridge yes, zero fret yes.
I have used locking tuners for years on electric guitars and find that they work quite well. I wonder in the long term if the pin mechanism may get worn out. I also wonder whether the signal is slightly “degraded” because of the lack of the mass around the string post.
Your bridge and the bridge saddles have way more impact on your tone and intonation than the string post. Any change in tone is imaginary.
Love locking tuners! They make string changes a joy! I don’t see why they don’t come stock on all guitars.
Let’s...not give the manufacturers an excuse to start making crappy locking tuners vs “these higher quality $125 sets”. If locking tuners came on all of them there’d be people in suits to exploit the market and we’d lose.
I use locking tuners but I actually do wrap the string around the post once because I've got flat wounds and I don't trust that clamp to hold a flatwound down.
That said I wind it around the peg twice, *then* run it through the peg hole and then clamp it down.
Then it's tuned in just a few turns.
I'm doing a total mod on a '97 Squire Affinity Strat. Between proper winding and stretching I don't have slipping issues at the tuners but with this mod I DO have an upper budget limit. Skipping a feature I don't need gives me a bit more money to put into pickups. Thanks for the video!
I just got a Mitchell ms450 it came with lock ing tuners haven't changed the strings yet on my other guitars I have standard tuners l use a Luthierknot when l put on new strings never had a problem with slipping or staying in tune, the lock ln tuners are kinda nifty 🎶🎵
Adds a little bit of weight to the head stock?
That's a really sensitive ability to detect the added wight of locking tuners.
I never noticed. My Strat's as balanced as any I've played.
The only real advantage to locking tuners is the time and effort it takes to change a string.
They are worth it.
yeh , well ...kluson suggests les paul ? And strats are much lighter...so i think its a valid issue for him .
Does is stay in tune?
I got a set of Gotohs on my ESP CTM and they are awesome! I wish I had tried them a long time ago! Now I just need a set for my Les Pauls. Maybe be able to get that damn G string ghost out of them.
I guess my question is would using locking tuners help keep a guitar that's not equipped with a locking nut stay in tune better while using a tremolo as oppose to using regular tuners?
I have never used them before. I would like to get them on my next new guitar
I know a lot of people are really swearing by the evertune system, have you had any experience with that and how it might help keep your guitar in tune even better?
I really want to try one! I haven't yet.
You can’t do bends with them.
@@brianvillage9649 that's actually not true, you can absolutely do bends with them, you just have to set it up differently to allow it
@@Stringjoy The cheapest evertune guitar that I have found is $1,099 and the hardware is $499!
Did you know some of The Schaller type sealed tuners tout themselves as locking tuners as well. It's claimed that after you tune them up, you simply tighten the tiny Phillips head screw on the end of the tuning peg handle and it locks it down. Seemed to work for alot of units. Give it a try.
Wow, now I know why I keep falling down on my left side while playing, ever since I put Grover locking tuners on my LP.
I have vintage style fender, standard fender, and locking style fender tuners. I really like the fender locking tuners the best. I wish they could make them look like the vintage tuners but we can't always get what we want.
Just put locking tuners on my strat it stayed in tune well before and still does the main difference is a full string change takes a couple of minutes from none to on and stretched and tuned and that alone is worth the money being able to change a set twice as fast oh and no need for string trees which is also a nice bonus
You would still need trees or a retainer bar if the angles are not right. Unless you got staggered ones.
I put locking tuners on most of my better guitars and certainly all my work guitars. It makes changing strings so much easier and faster. Out tune problems I always blamed the nut and I put bone nuts on all of my guitars. I noticed some of my work guitars still went in and out there of tune. When you did a few bends the post wrap would loosen up and tighten up. It was the tuners and replacing them fix that. Another great video Steve.
Excellent discussion of the pro's and con's and demonstration of proper stringing technique. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it Ernest!
think I've missed something here...if you don't wind it round the post, how do you tune down to C standard say, without the string trying to wind the other way!
When you put the string through the tuner you tighten up the lock and lock the string on. The string is only hand tight , then you tighten it to tune going through C and all the other notes therefore you just tune back down to C etc.
Good video. No mention of tremelo arm use though, surely that's a major reason to opt for locking heads for non Floyd rose type electric guitars, which is where you don't really want the string coiled round.
I rarely comment on videos but man oh man, what a great, clean content. Cheers!
With standard tuners I have a hard time changing strings because I have had them break on me while putting them on. I might switch to locking tuners so I can put them on and then tune them.
Scott , I was the person who asked for this video. Thanks for the time & effort. You answered all my questions about locking guitar tuners. I've been playing guitar for almost forty years & your videos have addressed many issues i have always been curious about. I've used another companies strings for most of my playing years but have been very pleased to make the switch to Stringjoy.
I'm so glad to hear it Paul! It's my pleasure, always happy to help. Glad to have you in the family!
I think it depends on the situation if they're worth it or not. For example, if you buy a lower end guitar that comes with cheap tuners that don't stay in tune very well, it'd be worth upgrading the tuners to at least some better quality tuners, and while you're at it you could get locking tuners if you wanted them. Or if you have a decent quality, but still doesn't stay in tune very well, like a Gibson style guitar, then locking tuners might help fix that. Also if you have a strat or a guitar with a strat style trem system, locking tuners might help with the tuning stability.
Hey Brother. Your vid was the most instructive vid on the locking tuners. Thank you. I appreciate the pros and cons, gotta have those.
Thank you again.
Dirt
Thank you for your very informational video. I really enjoyed watching it because you answered almost ever question I had.
I am trying to upgrade my tuners on my ESP LTD EC-256 from gold to chrome hardware. My tuners, Grover locking tuners 406C, are holding the about 3mm lower than the originals. This is my first time changing tuners and I wanted to know if anyone could tell me if that would be a problem?
Many years ago, I tried Fender-made locking tuners for about $100.00. I did everything you mentioned, and they worked great. However, I was told to just tighten the locking nut snuggly, and not over tighten it. Well, that is hard to judge how much to make it just snug. I tighten a little too snug and broke the locking tuner. Fender did not sell single locking tuners, so my entire 6-string set was now junk. Is there today a brand of locking tuners for acoustic guitar that is way more durable and do not break so easily?
I'm gonna get some for my 2 les Paul's tired of stringing them up the old way
I put locking tuners on all my guitars. Even my acoustics. If your guitar uses cheap tuners and you upgrade with good locking tuners, you'll notice a change for the better. But there are good non locking tuners that function as well as locking tuners. Even still you gain the advantage of being easier to change strings with locking tuners so it's a win win for not much money. I think grover locking 502c are the best.
I have locking tuners on all my electric guitars and have been considering putting them on my main (not expensive) acoustic but I don't think I've ever seen locking tuners on acoustics before and I'm not sure why...
I plan on getting locking tuners on my new PRS Silver Sky SE. Thanks for the info
I had locking tuners on one of my flying v's right away I noticed neck dive. I tried to get used to it because of the convenience of the locking tuners, could'nt so just be aware of that possibility.
What's neck dive?
@@morgandavis5401 Neck dive is when you have a guitar strap on ,..your in a standing position,... and your guitar neck( at the head stock end) dives downward towards the floor.
I have experimented with 2 steel plates that I rubber coated and double stick tapped to the lower inside V to stop that without the locking tuners. Worked. Didn't notice anything different with my tone. About to install a TP6 tailpiece on my Michael Schenker V. Was going to use locking tuners but may use a locking nut instead now. A low profile Kahler.
Thanks, Stringjoy. I got my set in the mail (gold with pearl handles) and I thought they were just toys. Very small, no directions included, and the pearl handles are quite small as though built for a Fender Strat or something! I like how you said "trying to determine" because I'm still not sure.
Whats the highest gauge a gotoh locking tuner can handle? Im planning on going for 74 on my low b string
Any size. I have them on an 8 string. Had to buy 2 sets but now i have spares.
Love my locking tuners. I use them on my Sheraton hollow body and my Takamine acoustic.My main reason is quick string changes as I change strings for every gig and if I have 2 gigs in a day ( summer weekends) I'll change the D and G between gigs as I break these a lot!.
Once you figure out how to use string itself to lock the string, locking tuners become pointless. I have standard tuners on all my guitars with only a half wrap around the post and zero tuning, slippage issues.
I tend to agree with you
I like the method of using the string to lock onto itself demonstrated in a video by Martin Guitars (for Acoustic but works fine for electric). They use a minimal number of turns; that makes it easier to keep the tension while winding on. That method might lend itself to half a turn like you say. Provided it remains locked when loosening a little (maybe for making any adjustment's at the bridge) it should work fine. I guess Locking tuners do make string changes easier for most people.
I use locking tuners on all y guitars. They usually work best when I make sure the intonation is right and the strings are stretched.
Wow! You did an outstanding job explaining and demonstrating! I’m sold on this! Thank you
I have them on my Strat and they are great, can't wait to put some on my Gretsch with a Bigsby. I think it will make string changes way easier.
how well does it work if I switch very often from standard to Drop D tuning during a live show ?
Is anyone having problems tuning up and you have to turn it hard to get it to pitch?I have gotoh locking tuners and my A tuner is hard af to turn.
If and this is a BIG if........your tuners are of the locking type and your nut is properly slotted and you have your trem locked down to the body , the only friction point is your string tree , saddle and nut.
Can't see an issue with the saddles if they are lubed and smooth. Can't see an issue with the string tree if its lubed. Can't see and issue with the nut if it's properly slotted and lubed it to make it more slippery.
If you have a plastic nut then all bets are off. My explanation only applies to bone nuts and stratocasters. If everything is covered then your strat should stay in tune + or - 5 cents. Oh and stretch your strings after new install.
will i be able to easily swap to alternate tunings? as in low E string to D or to F, worried about the small amount of slack leftover when used with a locking tuner
No problem! I have Grover locking tuners, and tuning down to D is no problem. When you pull a string through the peg hole, and then lock it with the rear thumbscrew clasp, the string is too floppy to even produce an audible note, so the lowest pitch for any string is “floppy”. Just be sure to not pull the string too tight before you lock it, which would require about 15 lbs of tension to pull a 10 gauge string to D. Not likely
One drawback is that if you change tunings on the fly, your string will break. The spooling effect of "normal" will let you tune up and down without the temper break occurring. I used to use Sperzels but now I use ratio "normal" tuners.
I agree that it can be overkill, but for me it’s just one less thing to worry about. Im considering getting a set of locking tuners for my 2008 Ibanez Gio, mostly because it’s the guitar I use for drop A# and winding the thickest string can be complicated- Ive never been good at winding to begin with, and thicker strings are even harder to manage. Ive tried lots of locking/kinking wrap techniques, but the low string still ends up unstable. Most recently, I restrung it with a set of Stringjoy 12-64, and even after a couple days of stretching and playing, it kept fluctuating and I had to retune it a lot. It’s doing better now, a couple weeks later, but I think I should just eliminate the hassle. Or maybe I’ll just rewatch your string change video... I dunno. Its funny how this Gio my mom got at a Goodwill for 60$ has turned into my downtuned weapon of mass destruction Im now having to upgrade for it to keep up.
Locking 100% without doubt.
Quicker to string up after you've done it a few times. Less time = back to playing sooner, after stretching of course. Thank you for the video!
Thanks for watching!
Major advantage: I'm very lazy when changing my strings...I hate it!
Got my eye on some Grover Roto-Grips.😁 Doubt I'll notice the weight on my Les Paul.
I put some gotoh locking tuners on my guitar. I've had issues with the string breaking at the tuner. Maybe I'm over tightening?
I had been playing guitar for 2 1/2 years before someone clued me in about stretching strings. I thought I had a crappy guitar, it just turns out that nobody ever taught me how to change strings the right way. Ever since I got my first set of locking tuners, I've made it a priority to put them on every guitar I own. Changing strings the old fashioned way feels really tedious once you've gotten used to them.
When you've got a lot of guitars, the time saving alone is great, like someone mentioned that if you have to do several at once.. way, WAY faster. Pull it tight through the hole.. lock the back, and with the tuners I have been getting, I don't even need the cutter anymore! Done! Fastest string change ever! It's CONSIDERABLY faster... Not just by a little bit.