3.5L Explorer Water Pump
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- this is not intended to be a complete write up of all necessary steps. Just showing the highlights, and the most important torque steps.
2013 Explorer 3.5L n/a water pump is driven off the timing chain, and can be quite time consuming to access for replacement
By far, one of the finest videos made.
Thanks! Much appreciated
Thanks for the “running rough after restarting,” would of shat my pants.
Yea its always nerve racking on first start, I've got nothing to hide in my videos, it's part of working on cars
Good job, wish this wasn't such a long process to replace this water pump
Yea its not very fun job to do....
most recent estimate i got to replace the water pump on my 2012 ford taurus (over 234, 000 miles on it) was 3100 and they would need my car for at least 2 days in the metro detroit area
I know the Fusion sport you have to actually remove the engine to do the repair. Not sure about the Taurus. That's a lot of money tho!
Thanks for the comment
very useful information , thanks!
no problem. good luck!
Hello, one question, how many miles does it resist without changing the water pump in a 2013 ford explorer? I await your answer
Typical failure is 120-150k miles from what I've seen
Thanks for the information Made me realize I don't want to buy a Ford Explorer that's for sure Some shops are charging $4000 for that job
Yup its a labor intensive job, but not 4000 bucks worth
What do you think is a fair price for this job? I’m taking mine to the shop next week. Thanks in advance and for the video!
@@peelking I would guess retail is probably about 2000-2500 depending on labor rate
My place is charging $4,000
Do you think a Rubber-Fiber gasket sheet would work instead of that messy RTV that's almost guaranteed to smear and fail?
Never used anything like that before. If you're careful the RTV isnt that bad to work with....
Hi can i move the crankshaft alone against clockwise while the chain off to put it on the 4 o’clock position for ford explorer 2019 ? Actually need about 180° turn against clockwise to reach to its point
Can I
Thank you so much
I believe so, make sure your camshafts are in the neutral position. rotate slowly just in case
I have a 2017 Ford Explorer, do you need to evacuate the A/C system as part of the procedure? I had this job done for about $2,000. I got it back and for some reason I turned on the A/C and it wasn’t working. I was still at the shop the guy told me to take it back tomorrow. I’ll keep you guys posted.
Should not need to discharge AC, but they might have done it....
Update: As I said, I made the owner aware of my a/c not working before I left the shop and took it back the next day. He stated that the mechanic forgot to connect a hose having to do with the a/c function. He stated that the mechanic reconnected the hose and recharged the a/c. I checked before I left and it works great. I also called a couple dealers and they stated that the a/c had to be evacuated as a safety precaution in order to do this job. So total for this job was $2,117.00 it included a new water pump, timing chain and kit, a new serpentine belt, oil change and it’s got a 1 year warranty or 14,000 miles. The parts were about $500 but the labor is what’s expensive. It’s a very involved job because of we’re the water pump is located. I will keep you guys updated on how the repair fairs in the long run. My 2017 Explorer has 112,000 miles I bought it brand new but I do drive a lot. Ok, good luck to you guys.
@@pyro_warrior5924 excellent! thanks for the updates!
So how bad was it to align the front cover back on? I was thinking of leaving the VVT bracket that bolts on over the phasers off on both sides and then sliding the cover in from top but resting it down low then I can bolt on the VVT brackets and pull the cover up. When I pulled mine out it kept hitting the fuel line clip near the firewall. My AC line is still attached too and I see you took yours off so I definitely have less room.
Looks like my VVT solenoids / brackets are different on the 3.5 Ecoboost. They hang over the phasers so you didn't have this problem with the NA 3.5
The cover goes on fairly straight forward. It's a little tight but doesn't have any major hang ups
Old video but i was thinking when you said you tried to turn crank a couple rounds to get marks to realign trust me that would take forever i did it with my customers car after i times everything on water pump job also i took plugs off and it took prolly 50-60 complete revolutions to get marks to line up again😂😩 you dont have to as long as you put marks right like u did but i just had to see marks line up again😂
Yea, timing marks themselves should line up. But the extra marks on the chain take the 50-60 revolutions
Does this process normally require removing the engine or not necessary?
I believe only necessary on the Fusion Sport of this Era. I've done both the Explorer and Edge in the car
Were you using Alldata to access the Ford procedure? Did you use the Motorcraft RTV on the cover?
thanks for the questions. Yes and yes
Can you point me in the direction of where you got those written instructions?
Written instructions pulled from Alldata
I see you didn't use the special tool to hold the camshafts. How did you hold them with the vise pliers?
Yea just wedge the pliers up against the side of the head and clamp down enough to hold. Not trying to crush the camshaft lol
@@Patman03sprcrw will the weight of the pliers handle not rotate it?
You wedge the pliers over to one side and then clamp down
Monday I took my 2014 Explorer to a place because I need a new water pump. FINALLY they called me a little bit ago and said it was done. I picked it up, pull out on the road and notice the check engine light is on and the car has no power. I'm flooring it and it's crawling onto the road. So I take it back, and they have no idea why it doing this. I mention that it's driving like the timing is off. I'm waiting there and ten minutes later he comes from behind the counter and says the mechanic just checked the timing and it's spot on, yet it's throwing a timing sensor code, even after they made certain the timing sensor if plugged in. They STILL can't figure out what's wrong. What do you think they could they have done wrong that would be causing this?
On a side note, the guy at the counter tells me that this is the mechanic's first big job. I'm thinking 'WHY ON EARTH would you have him do something as complicated as this for his first big job?!!!'
There's no way (that I know of) to check timing in 10 minutes on this engine.
I'd bet either the VCT connectors up top are reversed (grey and back in video) or timing itself is physically off
@@Patman03sprcrw Thanks, I am going to relay that to the shop. Much appreciated.
I just called the shop and they said it's still showing a bad "cam sensors" is what he called it this time, but he said they're replacing both of those at no charge and will see if that fixes it. I did relay what you said about the VCT connectors possibly being reversed, and that he said they hadn't thought of, so he's going to have the mechanic check that also. If that turns out to be what it is, I'll get their address for you, so you can send them the bill for doing their job for them.
If you mentioned this in your video, I must have missed it. My question........Is there a way to make the water pump last longer or is the water pump issue completely random?
Its a poorly built unit. Pretty common failure of them. Only thing I know of that *might* help extended the life is doing the routine maintenance of the coolant flushes. Ford says every 100k on the coolant. I would probably try and do it every 75k. Do it a little earlier might help prolong the life a little bit.
@@Patman03sprcrw Very helpful, thanks for replying.
@@laurentkm3 no problem, you're welcome
@@Patman03sprcrw I would do it every 3 years or 30,000 miles and only use the Ford coolant.
@@atx-cvpi_99 guess it also depends on which coolant you use, and if you are doing the flush yourself or not. Retail coolant flushes are kinda pricey
Good night, I just saw the video, I am presenting a small leak of water on the side of the engine and it falls on the oil filter, they applied pressure with the pressure gauge for 20 minutes and never lost the 16 lb that says the manual, the mechanic suggested changing the cap of the coolant reservoir, but I still have a doubt that it could be the water pump, I have a Ford Explorer 2013 3.5 naturally aspirated, I would like to know your opinion, thank you very much
does the leak appear with the engine hot or cold?
should be able to test the cap itself with a pressure tester with the correct adapter
The leak occurs when the car is hot, when I turn off the engine it continues for a while longer, I comment, when I check it in the morning the auxiliary tank is almost empty, just now I returned from my daughter's house and I have a considerable leak, the auxiliary tank was down more than half and I already bought a new cover because they told me in the workshop that it could be the cover, I explained where the coolant was coming out but they insisted that it was the cover, I do not agree with that because currently Agau keeps coming out that falls on top of the air compressor and the oil filter, I would like your opinion and I ask you, I live in Miami and you, because if you live in Miami I would like you to check my car and repair it, thank you very much for your quick answer
@@JD-mo8mi If its coming out above the AC compressor that sounds like the waterpump leaking to me. Fairly common.
How many miles are on your Explorer?
Unfortunately for you, I live in Texas, too far to be able to help you
It has 109,000 miles, thank you very much for your attention, I really regret being so far away, because I really liked your professionalism
Getting ready to do my 2015 edge 3.5, questions, do you know where I can access a digital auto repair program/manual, like the one you used? Also, where should I use silicone gasket material, water pump? Timing cover?
THANKS
I have access to the repair manuals through work. I shared the most relevant torque date within the video.
Silicone goes on the the timing cover. Good luck!!
@@Patman03sprcrw Thank You for the response.
@@michaelcarlson4932 no problem. let me know how it turns out
Holy moly those tires are balder than my father in law
Tires are definitely important, but doesn't really matter if the vehicle overheats 🤣
Get the cam flat holding tool an what sealent did you use for the timing cover cause it said to use motorcraft
I bought the sealant through the Ford dealer where I got the rest of the parts. Don't know specifics off the top of fmy head
what would be the price for the water pump change
I want to say my cost was about 1200 for the job. Retail is about 2300-2400 range
@@Patman03sprcrw thanks They gave me an estimate I thought it was very high but I see that no thanks for the information
@@rmzjrmz no problem
Hi, thanks for the informative video. curious if you replaced primary timing chain with new one and tensioners too or reused old one. Also, what gaskets were replaced with new ones to reassemble. Thanks in advance for reply.
Water pump, sealant for the front cover, front crank seal, valve cover gaskets. I reused chain/tensioner and intake gaskets
@@Patman03sprcrw Thanks for replying. Will attempt repair as soon as I get the parts.
@@carlossalas3770 good luck!
would you have a step by step and parts list that i can view? Also did you replace the front crank seal or front timing cover seal or both?
I don't have a full step by step. I've covered the most important parts of this, the rest is fairly self explanatory.
I did replace crank seal, and timing cover got new sealant *both discussed in the video*
@@Patman03sprcrw i'm at the point of rotating crank to align the three timing marks before i take off the water pump. I only see one obvious light colored chain sprocket. i don't see two others. do you have a process on how to align the chain with this set up for all three marks? TY
@@stan1698 chain marks don't matter, look at the marks on the cams and harmonic balancer
I came to check if you put the RTV bead on the block or the cover. Block it is!
Can be done either way, cover is a tight fit to get in and out of engine bay. I figured the block side made more sense instead of accidentally smearing sealant all over the engine bay during install 👍
I was considering attempting this myself but it looks pretty intimidating for someone without a lot of experience. My '92 was easy. Is it worth paying for a professional to do on a '14 with 200k miles? Or is that throwing good money at bad?
It's definitely a big job. Very time consuming. But that also means its expensive for a professional shop to do it too. Could be 1500-2000 in labor only!
Just gotta figure out what makes sense for you
Had mine done for about $500 call around shops I went to a shop that mostly does rebuilds. .mechanic said timing chains were in good conditions so didnt touch that only water pump
@@ChrisB-cx6td that's crazy cheap. Hard to believe any gaskets were replaced at that price
@@Patman03sprcrw Like yourself high mileage car didnt want to throw money at it .Overall performans nicely on the highway bought the motorcraft water pump and the timing cover gasket that was it. Most people want you to get new phasers bolts timing set i was willing to spend .But mechanic is and engine rebuilder said the internals on the 3.5 are strong so didnt recommend spending more. Plus the resale value is horrendous
Hey man, I’m just about wrapping up, just have one quick question. A few days ago, after removing the tensioner pin, I rotated the engine a few times to make sure timing marks looked good. One thing that bothered me was that when turning the engine over, clockwise of course, I noticed it would some times kick back a little (counterclockwise) when letting go to reposition my wrench, a long time mechanic friend said its cause the tensioner is empty right now, no oil, just wondering if this happened to yours or what your thoughts are, thank you in advance!!
Timing tensioner are oil fed, the "kick back" would be the compression of the engine. As long as it didn't jump a tooth on timing should be just fine to wrap up on the repairs
@@Patman03sprcrw Thanks man!!! Nah, it would just leave a little slack, opposite the tensioner. It’s amazing how you did this in just a couple of days, hats off. Gonna change spark plugs and start putting the top end together, I’ll pay really close attention when starting it up for the first time. We’re also from Tx, El paso.
@@MaquinasDePalomitas Awesome. Still in Texas but just about the farthest away from DFW you can be and still be in TX
@@Patman03sprcrw Got it going yesterday, nervous as I turned the key but maned up, it cranked a little then immediately after starting up it made a grinding noise for about a second or two then went away (never to return). I let it idle for about 10 minutes then pressed lightly on the gas a few times. The first 3 times I could hear something clicking everytime I stepped on the gas, then it went away never to return. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance, you really have gone above and beyond. Man, after this going back to work on my XJ will be a breeze. Edit: The engine runs great and its very still, I still have to test it on the road.
@@MaquinasDePalomitas takes the 1-2 seconds to prime the oil system, an pressurize the tensioner. If it idles good, I think you're good to go and drive it
Nice job partner!!
Thanks!
What mileage did the water pump go out and did you change engine coolant every 60k on it.
Used vehicle don't have the history on if it was changed. I believe this one has 120k on it
How many miles did you have some SUV before the water pump went out ? I have a 14 explorer and I’m just curious
From the few I've done, seems like 150k is fairly normal life expectancy. But could easily be either way of 150, unfortunately no easy way to know how long they will last
@@Patman03sprcrw ok awesome I just wanna catch it before it gets into the engine oil and ruin my motor. Does it happen often or do people catch it before it gets bad ?
@@ilove2wheels44 I think most of them leak externally, and you'll start to have low coolant/overheating as your primary symptom
@@Patman03sprcrw ok gotcha have you had any where it gets in the engine oil and ruin the motor before they get it fixed. Or people usually catch it before hand because it runs hot or low coolant
@@ilove2wheels44 correct. Typically external leak, overheating
Thanks for sharing . What brand/make is that Coolant vacuum fill tool?
SnapOn. But you can find much cheaper alternatives if you are only trying to use it occasionally
I'll have to double check, but I believe it's SVTRADUS
I was close. It's SVTSRAD262
@@Patman03sprcrw thanks
Hi..how much changing cost..? And Iam interested to buy 2012explorer. What problems can face..
Retail can be as much as 4,500 to do ths job
I live 70 miles east of Dallas. I’m trying to get a quote on a water pump replacement on exact same year and model explorer. What would you charge for this?
I'll have to look up exact prices, but should be about 2,000 bucks. You can send me an email and we can discuss it further
Patman03sprcrw@gmail.com
@@Patman03sprcrw i live in dallas and i have the same issue, can i shoot you an email and we discuss?
@@Mungaidan467 absolutely
Thanks so much for making this video. What was that repair manual you had?? I would really appreciate knowing what that repair resource was!! Thanks again.
Torque specs pulled from alldata
@@Patman03sprcrw thank you. Giant help..
@@jasonmccorkle8760 you got it bud. Not a problem 👌
Thank you for torque specs !
@@slaydrews_garage no problem!
What did you torque the motor mount to?
Pretty sure just ran them in with my 3/8" impact. I can look up the specs at work next week if you need them
what brand water pump did you use,Ford?
Yes all Ford parts
Do you do side jobs I have a 2014 explorer with a bad water pump
Where are you located?
@@Patman03sprcrw are you in Los Angeles?
@@oeao2841 Dallas Texas
fuk bro, was coming to see how to get alternator off! no one has a vid. where would i "get it out of the way" to?
unbolt it from the block and leave it on the subframe. no need to come all the way out.
Actually I don't think it has to be unbolted at all. But i could be remembering that incorrectly....
Does it matter what kind of RTV I use?
Brand shouldn't matter as long as it's oil rated
I can't find your 2nd and 3rd comments anywhere. LMK if you still have any questions
I was asking about why your instructions called for 2 gaskets on the water pump when mine only came with 1. .... I didn't trust the TRQ water pump I bought so I went amd bought the one with 2 gaskets.
Do I need to replace the bolts? Can't find them for sale anywhere.
@@OutWalkingIowa yea that "two gasket" step is weird. I don't recall doing anything special/ different, and used it straight out of the box
Hi, congratulation. Where Is the manual o técnic info ? Tanks
The necessary torque procedures for the timing cover are in the video
I don't believe in not covering the intake.while engine is installed on the vehicle.not what i was taught
everyone has their own preferences. For me it also depends on what kind of job I'm doing too. If I'm walking away (especially overnight) I'll cover the engine up. I also try not to use the wiper cowl as a parts/tool tray so there is less risk of loosing something down into the engine too.
Thanks for the comment tho!
My 2016 explorer just had the water pump start leaking at 80k miles. And I’m 4 months out of warranty. Dealer quoted me 3k. I am shopping around now at a Indy shop. For sure Ford just lost me as a repeat customer.
Every car has its strengths and weaknesses, but believe me I know your frustration
I just had my water pump changed on my 2013 explorer at the Ford Dealership and it cost me $5,000.
@@vivianrobinson882 crazy! Thanks for the comment and updated pricing!
Things break, it’s a vehicle. Anything with two moving parts will eventually break but bad design. Engineers have a funny way of doing that.
@@loganneville7509 every car out there has bad designs and expensive repairs.... like you said, it's only a matter of time before they break
Did u you Ford's RTV or Ultra black
I bought the sealant from Ford. Don't recall which kind it was
What’s a fair price on a job like this.?
retail is probably somewhere around 1800-2200 depending on labor rate
No need to change the chain?
If you have like 200k it might make sense to do the chain too, but no I wouldn't automatically do it "just because"
@@Patman03sprcrw my explore 2015 have 142k and the water pum liquidating, do you recommend changing the chain and if yes, what brand of chain do you recommend. Thanks
@@joseg.7162 I would plan on reusing the chain unless you get into it and find something wrong with it. I would recommend Ford chain
@@Patman03sprcrw thanks man for the information
How long of a job is this
I want to say book time is 14-ish hours don't recall exactly
how many hour@ of labor 🤔 approximately
I think book time is 14 or 15 hours. Don't remember for sure. I can look it up and let you know for sure
@@Patman03sprcrw ok thank you that a good enough estimate.😯
The Y pipe needs to be changed too
Which Y pipe?
@@Patman03sprcrw at the beginning of the video where you show the bottom of the engine there is two pipes going to the engine from the exhaust. I recently had to change them on my 2013 Ford Edge 3.5 l. Be careful because they rust out pretty quick
@@gves2 oh I guess you're a Northern resident. Haven't seen an exhaust rot out like that before
Good to know tho. Thanks for dropping me the comment and info
@@Patman03sprcrw you are definitely correct, I live in Canada. I heard a rough muffler sound and sure enough it was the Y pipe that was the issue.
A what's up bro watt is ur located my car have a water pump problem
Dallas Texas
What a great mechanic, but what an awful mechanical design Ford
Thanks! i appreciate the kind words
Thanks I'll never buy one of these garbage cars n😂
every car has its flaws, other then this, the 3.5 is a pretty stout engine