'03 - '08 Toyota Matrix Corolla Oil Leaks - VVT Solenoid, Camshaft Position Sensor O-rings, 1ZZ-FE
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- čas přidán 15. 05. 2023
- This video shows how to remove and replace the VVT solenoid (Cam Timing Oil Control Valve) and the Camshaft Position Sensor. In this case, the o-rings failed, causing oil leaks. Check the Pinned Comment or below for Timestamps, Part Numbers, Torque Values, and links:
Timestamps, Part numbers, Torque values, links:
00:22 Diagnostics: the O-rings on these components failed and caused oil leaks
VVT Solenoid:
02:51 Disconnect the VVT solenoid electrical connector
03:53 Clean the electrical connector, if needed (I use CRC QD
Electronic Cleaner)
04:14 Remove the bolt (10mm)
04:59 Remove the VVT solenoid
05:22 Clean the VVT bore on the head
05:46 Remove the old o-ring from the VVT solenoid
06:04 Notes for selecting a new o-ring:
- Toyota part number: G1917-32010
- Size: metric, JIS P14 (13.8mm ID x 2.4mm axial CS)
- Closest SAE fit (will eventually leak): SAE -113
09:31 Install the new o-ring (coat with engine oil)
11:02 Re-install the VVT solenoid
11:54 Re-install the bolt (10mm, torque to 80 inch-lbs)
12:57 Re-connect the electrical connector
Camshaft Position Sensor:
13:16 Location of bolt for the Camshaft position sensor
13:51 Disconnect the vacuum hose and breather hose
14:19 Remove the bolt (10mm)
14:52 Remove the Camshaft position sensor
15:28 Disconnect the electrical connector
16:13 Camshaft position sensor on the bench
- Toyota part (sensor) 90080-19014, or Denso 196-1103;
Notes on new O-ring (I can't find the Toyota part number)
- O-ring size: metric, 14.3mm ID x 2.4mm axial CS;
- Closest SAE (will eventually leak): SAE -113
19:53 Install the new O-ring
20:48 Re-install the Camshaft position sensor
21:05 Re-install the bolt (10mm, torque to 80 inch-lbs)
21:26 Reconnect the electrical
21:41 Reconnect the vacuum and breather hoses
22:13 Double-check all connections and start the engine
Link to the Timing Chain Tensioner video:
• 2003 - 2008 Toyota Mat...
I hope this video was helpful for you. Thank you for watching, and good luck with your repair! - Jak na to + styl
Timestamps, Part numbers, Torque values, links:
00:22 Diagnostics: the O-rings on these components failed and caused oil leaks
VVT Solenoid:
02:51 Disconnect the VVT solenoid electrical connector
03:53 Clean the electrical connector, if needed (I use CRC QD
Electronic Cleaner)
04:14 Remove the bolt (10mm)
04:59 Remove the VVT solenoid
05:22 Clean the VVT bore on the head
05:46 Remove the old o-ring from the VVT solenoid
06:04 Notes for selecting a new o-ring:
- Toyota part number: G1917-32010
- Size: metric, JIS P14 (13.8mm ID x 2.4mm axial CS)
- Closest SAE fit (will eventually leak): SAE -113
09:31 Install the new o-ring (coat with engine oil)
11:02 Re-install the VVT solenoid
11:54 Re-install the bolt (10mm, torque to 80 inch-lbs)
12:57 Re-connect the electrical connector
Camshaft Position Sensor:
13:16 Location of bolt for the Camshaft position sensor
13:51 Disconnect the vacuum hose and breather hose
14:19 Remove the bolt (10mm)
14:52 Remove the Camshaft position sensor
15:28 Disconnect the electrical connector
16:13 Camshaft position sensor on the bench
- Toyota part (sensor) 90080-19014, or Denso 196-1103;
17:50 Notes on new O-ring (I can't find the Toyota part number)
- O-ring size: metric, 14.3mm ID x 2.4mm axial CS;
- Closest SAE (will eventually leak): SAE -113
19:53 Install the new O-ring
20:48 Re-install the Camshaft position sensor
21:05 Re-install the bolt (10mm, torque to 80 inch-lbs)
21:26 Reconnect the electrical
21:41 Reconnect the vacuum and breather hoses
22:13 Double-check all connections and start the engine
Link to the Timing Chain Tensioner video:
czcams.com/video/axQIz8QEy_k/video.html
I hope this video was helpful for you. Thank you for watching, and good luck with your repair!
Is the solenoid oil control valve sensor O ring the same size as the crankshaft sensor O ring ?
@@monkchief5696 I don't know - like for the cam sensor, I can't find a part number the crank sensor o-ring alone. I had a crank sensor out a couple weeks ago, and off the top of my head it seemed to look closer to the cam sensor o-ring, but I just don't know.
Thank you for making this Video! One of the best, most detailed videos on “how to..” DIY.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
I'm just now finding your videos and am in awe of the quality of content and quality of presentation. You have gifts as a skilled mechanic but also as an effective and thorough instructor/presenter. Thank you so much for these Toyota Matrix videos! It's helping me DIY several fixes.
Wow, thanks! I'm just a shade-tree with a little technical background, but I do like lots of detail, so I try to include lots of details in the videos, too. Thanks for watching, and thanks for your comment! : )
Another excellent video. You obviously put a lot of time and effort into your videos - and it shows. This video is very informative! Thank you very much!
Thanks! I really appreciate that : ) Thanks for watching!
P14 worked perfectly on 2ZZ-GE lift high speed OCV solenoid on the other end of the head (2ZZ has 2 solenoids)! I thought the leak was in the lift OCV block housing gasket but it was the o-ring. I want to say thanks again for the video! ❤️
Fantastic - thank you for updating and sharing your tips! And thanks for watching : )
Great tutorial video. I have an 06' Corolla and thanks to this video I replaced the VVT solenoid O-ring. I still have to replace the camshaft position sensor ring but now I know how to do it. Thank you very much. Greetings from Puerto Rico 🇵🇷
Great job on your DIY! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for this video and detailed information where those leaks are coming from but specially the measurements and part numbers for toyota and japanese o-rings, awesome 👌
You're welcome! Thank you for watching : )
Thank tons for the video. I followed the directions, and everything went smoothly. Just so you know you cannot get an O-ring for the camshaft sensor separately from Toyota. I asked and had to buy the entire sensor. I didn't do that and opted to buy the aftermarket O-ring you described, so thanks for providing that information. It was really helpful.
Nice! Great job on your DIY, and thanks for adding that info about the o-ring. Thanks for watching! : )
Thank you!!! You saved me. I noticed an oil leak coming from the front of my oil pan and thought it was the silicone so i went ahead and took off the pan, added RTV and a gasket to it put it back, filled it up.. waited the next morning and it leaked again 😂😂
I found this video, I took the plastic cover off started the car and looked at the VVT Solenoid and sure enough it was pouring out oil from the right side. The O-ring had no elasticity, dry and cracked right off. Follow your steps, restarted car with new o-ring on VVT Solenoid and no leak, at all. It was leaking all the way down to the front of the oil pan so thank you for this!!!!
Fantastic! Thanks for sharing that info - yes, this leak can get pretty bad and look like a leak from another place. I'm so glad you got it sorted out, and thanks for leaving your comment. And thanks for watching! : )
You sir are a great teacher..
Love your instructional videos. Thanks so very much great for DIY 🙂👍
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Excellent video. Should have watched it before I started working on my matrix however I enjoyed every minute of it.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Thanks for the video. Enjoyed this one as well. Will be working on my son’s Pontiac Vibe soon.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Excellent video, will be doing my VVT Solenoid sensors tomorrow, hopefully my VVT Sensors, intake and exhaust side go as well as yours did.
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Well, I only replaced the exhaust side today, that was the one with the wetness around it. It came out after a little bit with no major problem, just had to be persistent, the O ring was pretty flat to say the least, but just wanted to say thanks again.@@L35inColorado
Superb how to video! All three of these are leaking on my 05 Vibe at 178k miles. I'm hoping it won't lose any oil between oil changes after I do these oring replacements. Thank you!
Nice! Yes indeed, hopefully that will solve the oil leaks and you'll drive that Vibe another 178Kmiles! Thanks for watching! : )
🙏 thank you, I was able to fix the vvt leak.
Outstanding, great job on your DIY! Thanks for watching : )
The best video for this model car and these type of leaks, period. I’ve 2004 Corolla with over $250K miles but have not had this leak. I did remove the solenoid at around $250K to test and clean it. Then, I tried to remove and clean the filter below but that filter is difficult to get to. Would love to see you doing a video on that one. Also, a video on how to check and adjust valve clearance for 2003-08 Corolla sold in USA/Canada for DIY owners who are somewhat mechanically challenged. 2:51
Thank you! This video below has a great technique for removing the VVT filter without having to remove the alternator:
czcams.com/video/SlZkIhRNZHA/video.html
As for valve clearances - the good news is the tappet style set-up in the 1ZZ-FE and many other Toyota engines typically doesn't require periodic adjustment like rocker style set-ups might, but the bad news is that if they do require adjustment, it is a big job because the camshafts need to be removed in order to remove the tappets. A job like that is usually coupled with new valve stem seals because valve stem seals is a good job to do as a "while I'm in there..." tack on, since you have to remove the camshafts to reach the valve stem seals, too.
Here's a video of how to check the valve clearances: you can see in that video that if those tappets need to be removed, the camshafts must come out first! But, again - the good news is that it is pretty rare that the tappets need to be changes, as long the engine has had regular oil changes.
czcams.com/video/U526fHMofak/video.html
I hope that helps - thanks for watching! : )
Thank you for that O ring part # ! Mine is dleaking !
You're welcome, I'm glad I could help! Thanks for watching and good luck : )
Awesome love your videos
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Awesome video. Very well explained. Pity you're not in the UK as I'd be hiring you for my 2ZZ GE Celica timing cover change.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Thank u so much for everything you do. You r an angel. Ty ty ty ty ty ty
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Happy New Year, too!
Thank you so much 🌹
Love your delivery of content. Smart tip using plastic sleeve on VVT solenoid. My solenoid was replaced 3 yrs ago and leaking again. Ordered Toyota oring already. Subscribed ❤ The timing chain tensioner always leaks poor design imo. Very thorough video. Thank you.
Thanks! Yes, unfortunately this leak is so common that it's basically a "routine" thing now, so I agree that there is a design problem. But, all things considered, these are such great engines, and they last a long, long time!
Thanks for subscribing, and thanks for watching! : )
Ordered orings from website you mentioned. Bought Toyota part but will watch it over winter if it leaks again then putting other one on. Thank you. Owned this since new.
Update: installed oring from oringsandmore and no more leaking out of oil control valve. Thank you
@@davida871 That's great news, and nice job on your DIY!
Thanks for the update : )
Perfect.. thanks much!
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
I love your videos. Very detailed, well explained, and well pointing things out. Would love to see a video of valve cover gasket replacement for the Lexus RX350 2GRFE (2007-2009) engine.
Thank you! I don't have a video yet on the valve cover gaskets for the 2GR-FE, but will certainly record that job if I get the chance. The front bank (Bank 2) is much easier than the rear bank. The rear bank (Bank 1) is hard to reach and you need to remove the air surge tank and a few other components that are in the way. For that reason, if you're doing the rear bank valve cover gasket, it is not a bad idea to replace the spark plugs (and possibly ignitor coils) as a "while I'm in there" item, depending on the service history.
I hope that helps : ) Thanks for watching!
@@L35inColorado I am lost already! LOL! JK! I know what you're talking about. Folks, stand on the driver side front of your car and look at the engine. Bank #1, the rear bank, is on your right, and bank #2, the front bank, is on your left. I got my spark plugs replaced and the 3 ignition coils, the ones that cost a lot in labor to replace.
@@unebonnevie Yes, exactly - I do have a video on the spark plug replacement for the 2GR-FE (in an '13 Sienna), but I don't remove either valve cover for that job, though often that job becomes a valve cover gasket replacement if oil is found on the ignitors:
czcams.com/video/9l0GyMI4ONY/video.html
@@L35inColorado Thank you!
thanks very helpful
Thank you for watching! : )
What a great video ♥
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Great video thank you! Should it be difficult to push the VVT Solenoid sensor back in?
i have a 2006 corolla just replaced my catalytic convertor and im still getting a p0420 code any suggestions on what it could be also when i accelerate and let off the gas the rpm drops down and back up when i let off the gas
I had a slight oil leak at the o-ring on the chain tensioner so I added a 236 ml bottle of 'AT-205 RE-SEAL' to my oil at the next oil change and that seemed to stop the leak for me.
would a completely bad maf sensor cause my 04 XR to stall and die?
Great Videos !!!! Very informative
Can I ask for a detailed. Specs of the o rings
ID. 13.8 , 14.2
OD…????.
CS. 2.4
Sure - just add the inner diameter (ID) to double the cross section (CS), to determine the outer diameter:
2*CS + ID = OD
Here's a visual:
www.marcorubber.com/o-ring-size-chart-as568.htm
In other words, the OD is equal to the one width of the CS (on the left), plus the open space of the ID in the center, plus another width of the CS (on the right).
Hopefully that helps! : )
The VVTi solenoid o-ring part number G1917-32010 is the same for the Lexus RX350 for sure 2007-2009 2GRFE engines.
Great - thanks for adding your tip, and thanks for watching! : )
I LOVE YOU ❤️ 👍
Thanks for watching! : )
do we need to replace or clean the small filter as well? Awesome Video. Thanks!
Yes, you can do that if the filter hasn't been cleaned before. The filter is location behind that 14mm bolt. Here's an example video:
czcams.com/video/SlZkIhRNZHA/video.html
I hope that helps - good luck! : )
❤❤
❤
My 2006 Corolla, judging from the oil mess, appears to have a leak in the oil control valve filter O-ring (or gasket as the FSM says) located just below the oil control valve (which you mention) Anyway before I tackle this do you know if it is cleanable? I am sure it needs a new O-ring. Any shared knowledge appreciated!! PS another great video, love your tips & tutorials!
BTW I use a flexible 3 claw grabber to guide the bolts into tight spaces and spin the threads in also to grab when removing with no danger of dropping.
- Bob
Great tip on the grabby tool - I love the grabby tool, too! Especially when I drop things, ug, haha : )
Yes, the oil control valve filter is cleanable. Here's a video which shows how to remove that filter without removing much else:
czcams.com/video/SlZkIhRNZHA/video.html
As for the gasket - if I remember correctly on the 1ZZ-FE, that gasket is not an o-ring, but is rather an aluminum gasket (crush washer) with the thin black layer and the part is 90430-14009, but double-check that with your dealer. Here's where I'm getting that part number:
toyota-usa.epc-data.com/corolla_matrix/zze132/1025/engine/1104/?frame_no=2T1KR32EX6C601598&partno=9043014009
You can also see the plug and gasket here - this is another great video:
czcams.com/video/A595LR4SQpI/video.html
These oil leaks in the 1ZZ-FE head are very hard to pin down - just when you think you know where it's coming from, it turns out to be something else. The main culprits for leaks on that side of the head are the camshaft sensor, the oil control/VVT valve itself, and the valve cover, though yes that filter plug gasket can leak (especially if there was an overheat event).
I don't know how commonly that particular gasket at the filter location leaks, so I'd really clean things up and see if you can't pin it down more precisely - that is, be sure that it's not the oil control valve above it or the valve cover gasket. If it is indeed at the filter, then it is great time to clean or replace the filter, too.
I hope that helps - good luck, and thanks for watching! : )
Thanks for the additional vids, you are correct about the no O-ring, removed the filter, it was clean as a whistle. There is a pretty slim metallic crush washer, no O-ring. It was stuck fast to the bolt. Hit it with a MAP gas torch, after cooling, it came loose. The filter, itself, was quite stubborn to get out of the hole, ended up rigging a 3/8” flexible, clear plastic hose & sucking it out with a mini-vac to the point where i wedged it farther out with a flat screwdriver and grabbed it with long curved forceps. Have a new filter coming (I like to have spare parts just in case), so for now I will have to find a new crush washer (reuse this one - fingers crossed). Cleaned up the oil & keep an eye out for leaks. Thanks for all the info, look forward to more 1ZZ videos!!
What about the connector under neath close to the oil filter call? Cause mine is leaking from there
Sounds like you might be describing the oil pressure sender - they do eventually leak when the internal diaphragm fails. Here's a video that shows the location, if this is what you're describing:
czcams.com/video/VqQEFZl-1MY/video.html
Is that it?
- Closest SAE (will eventually leak): SAE -113
what do you mean by this ?
if i use SAE it will eventually leak
what if i use the P14 ?
Yes, the SAE sizes are not perfect matches. The metric/Japanese sizes (such as the P14 shown) are exact matches. The size differences between the SAE and Metric are slight, but unfortunately they are different enough that over time the SAE will leak sooner than the Metric.
If you can only find the closest SAE sizes in your area, then you just must do what you have to do - I know that the closest SAE size will work in bind (because I've done that myself) but they don't work for very long. They eventually leak (because of the size difference) and just don't last as long as the proper size (metric). I hope that helps! Thanks for watching : )
Any way to know if camshaft is bad or just needs a new O ring?
If you mean the camshaft sensor - if the sensor is bad, it will cause a Check Engine Light, typically, because it is integral to ignition timing. If you just have an oil leak at the sensor, then the cause is a failed o-ring. I hope that helps - thanks for watching! : )
Too much Toyota, where is ML? :) Although quality video, as always.
Haha! The ML's have been behaving - but I'll have some more ML videos up soon, hopefully : ) Thanks for watching!
For 13.8mm & 14.3mm, I would simply round to 14mm the 'lazy' way😅. Have you checked "Performance Tool W5201" assorted 270 piece HBNR o-ring for unbelievable 8 dollar? Inside that 'massive' selection, there is a 14.28mm x 2.38mm (should sound familiar b/c you special ordered your 14.3 x 2.4).
However, I am not sure if these HBNR o-ring will work in engine environment b/c it's rated up to 150°C (still under regular engine oil temp but approaching). When you special ordered your o-rings, did the seller provide its specs such as temperature range, rubber type, etc...?
Amazing, detail, methodical presentation as always !
Thanks! : ) Yes, the o-rings site I used (www.oringsandmore.com) has all kinds of info on o-rings, and I did some research before I ordered. The sizing (or more the labelling of the sizes) on o-rings can be complicated with the different systems, and the SAE system "nominal" is quite different from the actual - for example:
www.sealanddesign.com/technical/o-ring-sizes/
As for rounding up/down - I agree, and I do round in a fix or in non-critical situations (as I did before on this same engine): for o-rings like these which are just statically preventing an oil leak, we have some wiggle room! But, as evidenced by the video, they will eventually leak if they aren't the correct size. And, of course they will eventually leak once they get old enough even if they are the correct size!
I am most picky about the dynamic o-rings like caliper piston o-rings ("square seals") and static o-rings for AC system repair, because those are a big deal when they leak! So, for example I get exact matches from quality makers on any o-rings I need for AC repairs.
I'm also very picky about fuel injector o-rings and seals because those need to be a very good fit, too, otherwise I'll be going back in again in short order. But for something like a crank or cam sensor or even the VVT solenoid in the video, I agree that there's a fair amount of wiggle room, especially in a pinch!
Thanks for your comment and tips, and thanks for watching! : )
@@L35inColorado Both o-ring websites are wealth of information. Learning something new everyday, THANK YOU for sharing ! 💯
Is the solenoid oil control valve O ring the same size as the crankshaft sensor O ring ?
I don't know - like for the cam sensor, I can't find a part number the crank sensor o-ring alone. I had a crank sensor out a couple weeks ago, and off the top of my head it seemed to look closer to the cam sensor o-ring, but I just don't know.
@@L35inColorado someone from the parts department at monkey wrench racing just confirmed they are the same on the 2ZZ GE engine.
@@monkchief5696 Great! Thanks for getting that info and adding your tips! : )
Is there anything on these engines that do not leak something?
Haha, come to think of it...there a quite a few places on these engines that leak -- you're right! The timing chain tensioner o-ring, the VVT solenoid o-ring, the camshaft sensor o-ring, and the oil pressure switch are the big ones! It is frustrating, but at least they're all fairly easy to reach. But I agree - something must have gone wrong with sealing design for this engine, because Toyota engines using don't leak as much/in as many places as these 1ZZFE and 2ZZGE's do sometimes! Thanks for watching! : )