"U" trouble codes - Don't replace the TIPM just yet on your Dodge
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- čas přidán 25. 07. 2024
- Mark wrestles with the Can Bus system that makes the car go haywire. He finds the "twisted pair" of can bus wires that is causing major headaches for Dodge / Ram / Chrysler / Jeep owners - he wants you to check this BEFORE changing the TIPM module or other remedies.
- Auta a dopravní prostředky
I just want to thank you. After 8 months trying to figure out the issue with my '14 Wrangler causing it to not shift under heavy acceleration... After 6 different shops including 4 different Jeep dealerships, tapping FCA's engineering team to consult... no one could figure out the cause. They spent $15,000 replacing the entire transmission, the cat converters, the ECU, the PCM, not to mention the couple thousand I spent trying fixes on my own such as various speed sensors, cam sensors, and yes, a TIPM... I stumbled across your video late one night and decided to look around my engine... Sure enough, I found a wiring harness that wasn't melted or anything but was pressed against the coolant tube. All I did was stuff a piece of insulation between the tube and the harness and it seems to have completely fixed my problem.... Unbelievable... So again, thank you...
Excellent and good to know Chris - to be sure - play with it - put it in then take it out - just to be sure - do enough times to prove it - Cheers from Canada and good work!
@@carquestionsI wish he could have gotten a piece of that 15000
My 2015 Ram has some of the same issues...dash lights, gauges give false reading, wipers turn on automatically and so on...13 different U-codes. This is my second trip to the dealership. Was able to get a video of the dash and showed it to the service writer...He said he has never seen anything like mine. Time to share this video with the dealership before they hit me up for large sums of money.
Barbara - share it far and wide as you can - they've seen this issue before - chances of you being a one off problem - Zero! - let me know what happens - Cheers from Canada!
I’m a mechanic …I brought my car to a performance shop to get it converted to E 85 and get a tune on to my redeye after doing a lot of modifications so I let them put the New injectors in and they had to remove my supercharger ..Then I kept getting a bunch of ‘U’ codes after this🤦♂️ so I decided to work on my vehicle at my shop to look it over …the top of my supercharger, they disconnected the wiring hornist and they plugged it in, but it was laying on top the super charger cooler line 😮so I put a zippy tied to hold it up, and so far so good for three days…
Thanks for the video it helped
I love how you explained what the heck a can-bus system was. Everything seemed to be jargon to me when researching so I loved the way you pointed that out. What's the difference between can bus A, b, c? Where would Can bus C be located?
This made me have a mental click that all my issues started after installing an inverter. Pulled out the old ghost hunting kit, grabbed my EMF detector, and sure enough, get within 6 feet of that thing and the detector was red-lining. Turn off the inverter, no more spikes. Surprised the FCC hasn’t hunted me down yet. Those things can create some crazy interference. Thanks for your help, man. Saved me a couple hundred bucks, and gave the ghost detector something to detect.
Well done Ian - Cheers from Canada!
This video was sweet, informative and straight to the point. No long winded repetitive talking in circles crap. Thanks for the video, fixed my problem right away…
Stan - good to hear that - cheers from Canada?
GREAT explanation on the CAN sys.👍
I just happened to see a story the other day explaining that when communication wiring (telephone/internet company's) use paired twisted wires (one is a ground/return) that the way that they keep the signals from interfering with each other (electromagneticly) with multiple pairs in each loom is by adjusting the number of twists per inch...
If they can interfere with each other with such small em signals, I've got to believe that any large metal in close proximity or moving water (with any metallic material), or even some heat sources would also interfere.
You wouldn't believe how many times chryco dodge etc has placed a twisted pair in direct contact with metal or moving coolant
This is the best video I’ve seen on this. You are knowledgeable and I very much appreciate this. God bless!
Anytime DV - Cheers from Canada!
Thanks man your a life saver I have a 2011 nitro heat 4.0l same problem it was exactly as you said I moved it off that pipe wire shielding fell apart in my hands moving it solved the problem it's has been a problem ever since I purchased the car thanks again 5 years ago.
Glad I could help Maddog - Cheers from Canada!
I had the same issue on my 2008 Mitsubishi lancer and turns out it was indeed the canbus so you're spot on...
Glad it helped friend - Cheers from Canada!
Nice work. I am sure it applies to a lot of vehicles and people jump right into replacing the damn thing and not solve their problem.
I saw something about how the CANBUS can be easily checked somewhere but forgot how to do it already.
Canbus is fine if you don't get any U codes - just a simple scan
Need to have a scope, im looking into them. Really expensive.
This was not the problem I am having with my vehicle but as I was researching how to replace the TIPM I came across this video and now I am wondering if my set of problems might just be from a similar cause. I'm going to start tracing wires before I get into the more invasive stuff. Thank you for the idea.
Look for rubbing on coolant pipes - if found move them a bit - let me know how you make out
I just start having the same problem with my 2016 Dodge Charger. Shifter acting up. Wipers turning on, all kinds of faults on dashboard etc.... I was planing on changing fuse box. I found wires and move them it stopped the faults. I was able to drive back home. Faults still persist but will continue inspecting wires. Thanks you so much for the video.
Glad to hear it worked
What wire was it
A wite wire at the wire harness to fuse box.
Good video and it has me thinking! I have a 2015 Dodge Journey SE and some of the problems you explain happen to me intermittently. All the cluster lights would come on, my turn signals would stop working, no speed reading on either digital or round speedometer. After a while, the lights would start to go out and things like turn signals would be normal. Finally it would leave only the check-engine light on which would eventually go off as well. This happened twice. My mechanic cleaned the connections and it worked fine for a few days then started again. Now, he says the TIPM is faulty. I'm going to check your advice over the weekend as the new TIPM won't be in till next week. Thanks for the heads-up!!
Good luck Tim - let me know what happens - Cheers from Canada!
@@carquestions Thanks! I'm gonna look under the hood tomorrow and see. This model Dodge has extensive issues reported with the TIPM and wiring. Greetings from Long Island, N.Y. USA!! ONE QUESTION...after you found the wires that were rubbing on the pipe, did you do anything to insulate them so it wouldn't happen again?
Replaced Tipm from online junk yards $150 each. I replaced TIPM, $1,500 by dealership. was last resort. came back in 1 year. Will look at this, thanks.
Let us know how it works out please David - Cheers from Canada!
Nice catch!
Thanks so much the web used to tell you info but i found bs but you pointed me to a prob. my issue no com so simple same as yours now my sis car runs again after she has dropped a ton of cash on already thank you again sir thank you
Anytime Jeff - Cheers from Canada!
While bad i had the same issue on my 2016. Found a splice wire splice at before fuse box. Probably previous owner had some issues with the ele tronics. Any ways problem persis.after replacing splice connector.
I remember a couple of days we spill a drink at the center console drinck holder. I took apart center console and cleaned all connectors underneath. I Used some electronic contact cleaner. Faults went away. Connectors did have coke syrup in them probably causing faults. Good luck to you all.
Great vid dude!!! Yea grab a round color rubber for the wire harness nd firewall!! Nd solder them wires nd cover them w melted plastic , u should b ok after !! Great find luv it awesome
Thanks ST - Cheers!
Gotta 2015 Promaster doing this. Random check engine light coming and going, throwing a U1110 and a U1120. Sucker cut off while doing 45 down a busy street! Disconnected battery to check terminals per a video about grounding wire issues. Rode just fine after. Then key started sticking again, trouble shifting, random dash lights but thankfully no shut off. Next time I start check engine light gone. I'll be checking this wire out tomorrow.
Good luck ATAVH - probably corrosion in the wiring - heat damage etc as well - let me know what you find - Cheers from Canada!
you are definitely a "must subscribe channel" thanks for the help
Thanks Byron much appreciated - Cheers from Canada!
Had a similar issue in my 2010 charger. I replaced the TCM module from a scrap car but definitely had some wires close to hot parts aswell. I was told to always check the grounds aswell, they can cause all sorts of issues.
Did you fix it? - Cheers from Canada!
Thank you my Jeep had all of the same codes...I'm going to give this a good look-see :)
Did this fix work?
Great information. If I hadn't stumbled across your video, I would have listened to all the others claiming the truck would need a PCM. Turns out a 15A fuse for the Dynamics Sensor had blown.🤷♂️
Love hearing that - Cheers from Canada!
Thank you so much I have Scion FR-S 3013 it did that to I fix it take me about 5 minutes
I just has my TIPM checked by MAKS TIPM rebuilders out of California. They checked all and said no errors, all tests passed. I will check these wires ASAP and hopefully this may also be the problem. I was having all the TIPM type problems, fuel pump, no start, losing power, washers, horn etc. Ill check it out and let you know. waiting for TIPM to be returned.
Oh by the way, im from Canada as well
Mike move any twisted pairs away from metal pipes and check for rubbing - Cheers from Canada!
just the exact same problem I had on the exact same vehicle thank you for the video
Hope it helps corny - Cheers from Canada!
Got an ‘11 Avenger from a buddy, had to put a new battery in it, conversely some wires got moved around in the process and a couple days later it started flashing all the dash codes at me, hasn’t started stalling or limping, just flashing all that crap at me, and I also noticed flickering in the dash lights as well, immediately leading me to think it was a wiring issue, thanks for this, gonna go try and see if I can’t correct the problem here in a bit, let you know how it goes 👍🏻👍🏻
thanks - would be good to know - sure sounds like TIPM
@@carquestions you should see the wiring under the hood, it’s got a big stereo and a bigger battery and alternator, and whoever installed all this primarily used black tape to splice/tie everything together, I actually got it to stop for a couple days after first watch, hit a pothole and sent everything back on again, messed with it yesterday morning and haven’t had issue again. This thing was free and I definitely wanna sell it, but I wanna try and solve this issue first
This works !!! My dodge challenger doing the same I change just about every fuse but after watching this I have no issues !!! Must be a mopar/chrysler thing idk but it works !!
Good - Cheers from Canada!
We’re you getting the same exact codes or just U1403 & U1411 ? Do you have a HEMI ? & If So.... Where is this located at ?
@@Semajay yes I do have hemi ... I got the U0121 code but once I got the right fuse switched out I never had the code show up again - I ended replacing about 2 other burnt fuses but my car never had that problem again after a few starts // the fuse box I am referring to in the one under the hood not the trunk your car show have a manual or you find one online
@@Semajay what fuses did u replace?
@@supersmoote Which fuses did you replace?
I have u1110 and U1120. My speedometer was going haywire now its not working plus all my lights are on. I changed both speed sensors and nothing changed. My next step is touching the battery ends together. I have searched this issue high and low but Im not trying to replace an abs module If im not having that issue. Thank you for this video.
It was my abs module
I have a 2015 Dodge Journey that has many but not all of these issues. When the lights come on on the dash, the display shows "No Bus" for a few seconds then goes back to the mileage reading/temp reading. My mechanic says it's the TIPM but now I'm going to check this before I have a new TIPM put in! Thanks!!
Did you find anything? - the twisted pair of can bus wires must be moved away from metal
@@carquestions Not as of yet! Weather is not permitting me to check but be assured I WILL!! I'm hoping this is the resolution to my issue! I post back after I check into this!
I have a 2017 dodge Durango sxt recently replaced bcm everything was normal after that then right back to dash lights going crazy loss of power. Should I replace the timp?
Dave - find the smartest tech in town and go on Dodge forums - I'd check TIPM before changing it - let me know what happens - Cheers!
i have a u0002 code and all the dash lights went crazy, sometimes only the track control or the throttle light comes on and off along with the chime, the other day i was on a stop light waiting and everything on the dash came on and a messege hot oil started blinking and put my vehicle in protection, i was not able to start it or change between gear, i had to tow it home. all this happened on my jeep wrangler jku 2013...... im going to star by checking all my wiring harnesses any advise or tip?..... great video thanks!!!!!
Check for rust of any kind inside TIPM - Cheers from Canada Marco!
2001 ram no bus and no comm, new ignition switch 2 keys, do i need to program, also anti theft doesn't flash security, i changed alternator and coil pack still no start,what else can i do here thanks
Check battery and all grounds in minute detail - something is not getting power -
Well I have kind the same problem, my Sebring 2007 got in limbo mode stock in second gear, p0700 and p0750 code. I replaced the solenoids, even I replaced the transmission. Nothing the same problem. I decided to replace the whole wire harness. Now my transmission works but I have the light dashes on.
Need to get the codes lots of problems with the 2.7 L - possible the TIPM does need replacing
Getting code u0021 Dodge Caliber causing go limp mode any ideas? S problem
EMF Force....... WOW Thats a new one on me!
hii there I have the same Dodge Nitro model as you and its a 2008 model .... and its got the same problem.... but did this solution lasted long and you don't needed to change any other part???
Yes it did Manav - move the wiring away from the left side camshaft cover near the firewall - Cheers from Canada!
So my 2013 challenger srt has the u1110 code and it will crank and drive but the whole dash lights up for no reason and then gets stuck in gear
Sounds like a PCB failure of some kind - sorry to hear that - let us know what the root cause when you find/fix it - Cheers
Great video
Thanks Dave - Cheers from Canada!
I have the same problem with my 2010 Jeep Liberty all the lights on the dash are on I found a broken wire and fix that it went off for a while and all the lights came back on again but the wire still not broken so they're obviously has to be another broken wire but I still can't seem to find it
BR - get someone to help you - wiggle other nearby wires while someone watches - Cheers from Canada! - let me know how you make out.
My 2007 Pacifica turned scary. First this week, dome light comes on and stays until car turned 20 minutes. Now accelorator goes immediately to 80 when I've only just pulled onto highway around 40 to 50. I did have a major leak in bad rain storm, flooded drivers side floor. I cover it now. What the heck is going on?
Sounds like a TIPM problem due to internal corrosion - find it and check it
This may save me tons....experienced same symptoms and replaced both front wheel speed sensors (from throwing codes and rhe issues went away......they came back and now i have u1110 and u1120 plus a TCM code and a shift solenoid cose for my '10 Liberty...will report back after checking the CanBus
Let us know - Thanks and Cheers from Canada!
So did you figure it out? I’m having this problem and dodge can’t even figure it out. They replaced the Tipm and that didn’t work. Now they are ignoring my calls !!!!
Looked over as much wiring as I could see and everything was in order......did some more research and confirmed it was stuck in limp mode, so I took to the dealership for a full diag. Valve body/shift solenoid was bad. They wanted 1900 for the Oem so I picked up a remanufactured one. All was good for a few days then it started slipping and not always going into gear when shifting from park to drive or reverse so I parked it and to not make it worse not I won't go in the gear at all after sitting for just short of a week......so back to square one it seems
Sorry to say you need to tack it to a transmission shop - sounds like the trans is failing @@thatonechannel7045
I have a 2015 Dart, and I have this same issue. Went to Autozone, and they sent me these codes: U110A, U0164, U0140, U110C, U1403, U0140-00 all are under the CAN C BUS U0001 then ABS U0125-00 & U01400-00. I'm about to get my motor mounts replaced today, and I'm hoping that the shift of my engine caused this to happen, and it's fixed with the new mounts. Rn my cost of just parts is $203 w/2yrs warranty on parts. 😂 I'll keep you updated on what happens.
Mounts could be the problem - thanks for the info Yanic - good luck and Cheers from Canada!
I have a broken motor mount and I’m experiencing some of these problems- why would it be related?
It might have stretched or damaged some wiring as a result of the engine moving too far@@kylelohman5036
Did you ever fix it?
We have a 2015 dodge Durango and we were on a busy road driving and it just started wigging out and completely stopped! Horn honking, wipers wiping, every notification coming up on the screen. It was so scary. We are thankful to have gotten off the road onto the side road. We had to be towed and we had our babies in the car too. It sucked! Anyways husband unhooked the battery at home and rehooked it and it seems fine now. We bought this new used car only 4 months ago. I don't ever want this to happen again. I am thankful my hubby was with me. I wouldn't even know what to do if I was alone with my kids and this happened. It was scary. How the heck do I drive and never be afraid of this again! We are going to look at this and pray moving the wire helps! Thanks so much for your advice!
Beth - You definitely need to check out the TIPM for interior corrosion and all the wiring going to it - don't authorize a fix unless they guarantee the problem will be fixed - you don't want them to guess - get a good mechanic - good luck and let me know how you make out - Cheers from Canada!
@@carquestions thank you for the help! Calling mechanic tomorrow! We will update you on the results. You are a Godsend!
So when we got towed home my husband disconnected the battery and then reconnected. It started working fine. We had our mobile mechanic come over and he hooked up his computer and got a bunch of codes but says its just from what happened so its showing tons of codes cuz everything was wigging out. He cleared them. And hoped it wouldn't happen again. Not happy with that answer, we took it to our other mechanic and they checked everything and said it was all good. Still not happy with that answer we took it to a dodge dealer. (We have a dodge durango). They called today and said they tried everything to try and get the codes to come back up. They said they need the codes to be able to figure out what happened. They drove it for 50 plus miles and it wouldn't happen again. They basically said it might have gotten wet. We did have snow and I'm guessing when it melted it got on the tipm... they said if it happens again to not reset it or reconnect the battery but to bring it in. So I'm bummed that I don't have a clear answer as to what happened. Because I'm seriously afraid of it happening again. We bought this used car (2015) only 4 months ago. Also we have never had a nice car like this with all these electronic stuff in it like the screen and the heated seats and all that jazz so im prob gonna be freaking out anytime it snows or rains. Bleh. By the way my husband did look around for wires but found that they were all hidden well. I pray something like that does not happen again. It was super scary! I think the worse part is I want to know why it happened. So that I can make sure it doesn't happen again.
@@bethart1985 Your Mechanics need to be a bit more inventive when it comes to trouble shooting - If I thought it was due to water I'd get a pressure washer, start the car, open the hood and "mist" the engine until it was soaking wet every which way to sunday - a good engine can take it no problem - mist only no direct spraying at any part - check the engine light at the same time - if water was the cause it should turn on the light or cause the engine to run goofy. - also I would grab the wiring going to the fuse box and wiggle/move it a bit while running to see if that caused any problems. - keep me posted - they haven't found the issue yet
It happens to me on a 2008 grand caravan.
Two wires on side automatic door.
Hard reset and that fixed the problem.
End battery cables together for 20 minutes.
Thanks for the advice Dan - Cheers from Canada!
Podrias decirme que cables fueron exactamente ? por favor
@ son los cables que van en la parte de abajo de la puerta automatica que en mi caso se pelaron y hicieron falso contacto.
Yo les puse cinta negra de electrisista y de ahi desconecte los dos cables de bateria y los puse juntos por 20 minutos para hacer que la computadora aga un comienzo en todo el sistema.
I have an ‘11 caravan base model that is going into limp mode, I replaced the battery and it seemed to fix it for about 10 miles then all the craziness started up again, power locks going up and down the speedometer darting all over, I have U1110 and U1120 codes.
I sent the TIPM in for repair a few years back due to the fuel pump staying on but I’m not sure if something else in the TIPM would cause limp mode?
oh ya - plenty more - mostly due to corrosion deep inside - sounds like TIPM again Joe
Pcm mounting location in that van causes all kinds of headaches. Near the ground infront of driver front wheel. Been there done that...might be worth a look!
thank you for this video
Thanks Pat - hope it helps - Cheers!
Thanks alot for explanation, jeep 2012 liberty have same will check tomorrow and let you guys what happen, god blessings you
Anything happen
My Jeep Liberty did this yesterday 😂😂🤦🏾
Nothing till now and the tech insists for the TIPM
After I change the TIPM and nothing change we find the problem that ABS moudle is broken and after I change it everything work as should be
Got a problem just got finished with my rebuild on my 2006 dodge charger 5.7 I've got everything to spec so when I try to crank I'm getting no fire
Pull a plug - connect it and ground it - see if it is sparking - yes? start checking fuel system - No? see if there is power to ignition system working backwards from the plug - you"ll get it - stick with it - let me know how you make out - Cheers from Canada Tyrone!
i have dodge nitro 2008, i am suffering from sudenly many functions are working together at the same time, like wipers, horn, water, lights, and so on. then sudenly stopped 2 monthes ago so i the technecian told me it must replace ECU and programmed it, but it became very bad, so another technecian repaired the TIPM and told me if it will return again it must replace the TIPM. please tell me what i can do, my car became danger and disturb for me. i forgot to tell you that there are ESP BASS and tires lights are appearing 2 years ago.
Check and move that twisted pair I show - you might have to do this one yourself - don't let them change anything unless they guarantee it will fix it - your not paying them to guess - let me know what happens - Cheers from Canada!
You're a f****** genius thank you my friend thank you my friend thank you my friend God bless you and yours I check my cable shook him a little bit and will I found the short loose battery cable up front
Anytime JC
Thank you so much for this friend. I had very similar problems with my 07 RT but I was not coming up with any "U" codes. I consistently had P0573 Brake Switch Sensor A codes, even though I had all the ESP/BAS, ABS, E Brake Lights, Speedometer Dropping, Dash/Cabin/Headlights Flickering and air system cutting out, car "dinging", and a clicking sound coming from under the drive shaft compartment (this also goes off while in "park", with the car on as I press on my brake pad, (this I don't understand)). I replaced the brake switch sensor but that didn't solve anything. Did what you said in the video and have seen the most results thus far. Headlights and dash still flickering, air cuts out a bit and cabin lights dim. Any advice? Please and thank you for your service! FYI TIPM system was replaced in 2019.
Sinjen - keep experimenting with the wiring - move it if its touching metal etc - also find a better mechanic and go to rtforums andlook for similar problems and fixes. Cheers
Now check wiring behind speedometer in dash !!!
Fantastic ! Every Dodge Chrysler ever !!
Thanks Bill - Cheers From Canada!
I have a 2010 Jeep Patriot where it's throwing random codes, from Pcodes to Ucodes and the instrument cluster looks like yours as well as the engine wants to rev up when the emergency brake light on the instrument panel comes on. Feels like the abs brakes are slightly on as well when I drive. When I put the Jeep in drive sometimes the ABS lights/traction lights go off. I looked for can bus wires, but had no luck finding them. I feel like this could be a relay issue as I had one previously and my mechanic just wired relays outside of the relay box. Great video and cheers from Canada!
Much appreciated - thanks - Cheers from Canada!
@@carquestions hardly any codes at all now but the ABS lights/Traction/Emerg Brake lights are still coming on and then go off once in Drive. When I drive 100 yards or less they come back on. Wheel bearing / Wheel Sensor?
@@SING_OwntheSound Sounds like the TIPM - find the twisted pair of Canbus wires - move them away from metal
@@carquestions Do I start from underneath the TIPM? Asking as I don't see any twisted black and white wires coming out from the bottom.
Took TPIM apart and you can eat of it it's so clean. Same with all connectors to TPIM. Found 3 sets of twisted pairs and none look like they are near metal. One set could be going through crinkled hose right beside top of engine, right side, but that hose is zip tied to two 'somethings' sticking up...I'm trying and could use a little more guidance if possible. Cheers from Canada!
Did the car ever die or stall out? This sounds exactly like my issue except mine Intermittently dies. Also, I don't have the limp mode issue or slow acceleration.
Tony - scan the computer - if it has trouble and can't connect then it is most likely TIPM
Great video thank you for your info and helping us DIYers! I recently changed out my transmission control solenoid twice! Ran well for about two weeks and now getting P0882 and P0740 codes. When I hit gas she thinks a little. Little research says to swap out my TIPM but like to see if I’m missing anything before I start throwing more unnecessary parts towards my 2013 dodge journey 3.6. Would you have any idea where to start or any suggestions? Thanks again any help would be much appreciated 😅
P.s. recently I also noticed at a light when I accelerate, I feel like I’m not getting all power needed to move out of the middle of the intersection. I’m planning on swapping out oil filter housing along with connecting sensors and valve cover gaskets, upper and lower intake gaskets as well.
I'd check for oily or bad connections - also - convertor might be going south
That sounds like the right idea to me - Cheers from Canada and let me know how you make out -
Hello, I have codes U11C2 and U0101 for a 2014 Dodge Challenger V6 3.6L and the client had brought it to me a week ago with the code of U0101 and it’s transmission was also jumping hard everytime I changed its gears from P to D. Anyways we changed the transmission and it drives fine now and changes gears correctly but I still have those 2 codes on. Can you please help me
Disconnect battery for 20 minutes and then touch the terminals together for a few seconds then reconnect them to the battery - let me know if it works - Cheers!
did that fix it?
Love the details Lolo
Great!
Well done!
Thanks Tony - Cheers from Canada!
Did the codes go away by them self or did u have to clear them to check that u found the problem because I am have the same issue right now I check the box and found nothing and now I am going chasing this bus wire
Keith - the codes disappeared once I found the rubbing wires - Cheers and good luck - let me know what you find.
There is no such thing as a non abs magnum. One of the rear abs sensor or axle is bad
Hi, I have a 2011 Dodge Durango that suddenly stopped starting. I assumed it was the WIN module... replaced that with a new one... then took it to a local dealership to have the key programed. They told me that they could program the key, but it was still not starting... after further diagnostics they thought it was a bad TIPM... I replaced that with a new one. Now they are telling me that something is shorting out the TIPM and still won't allow it to start. Back in March I had accidently turned my car off with it still in drive and my check engine light came on with these codes... could they be causing the underlying issue? I drove it with no problems until June 5th. Thank you for any advice.
Edit: Codes are
U0100 (lost communication with ECM/PCM "A")
U0121 (lost communication with anti- brake module)
U0103 (lost communication with electric gear shift module)
Bryan - turning the car off did nothing - you have a dumb mechanic - next time they recommend a fix say ok if they guarantee it will fix it - you're not paying them to guess - if no guarantee then find a competent mechanic.
@@carquestions thank you for your reply and advice... I'll definitely keep that in mind. I took it to the dealership thinking they'd know what could be wrong with it, but they've been guessing this whole time. It's very frustrating, but I don't know where else to take it
Is one of them could be U0002
Ok do u think this would be my issue?
I have a 07 chrysler sebring it runs and drives exept when it runs it will randomly just die and the abs light, brake light, lightning bolt light will come on, however once it dies all the lights come on but all go away but those 3 then the car will sometimes start up again after a few min sometimes start back up right away. But the old codes that it had was the u codes you had all like 12 or so u codes
Yes sounds like it - but I'd also check fuel pressure when it dies - could be a bad fuel pump given its age
@@carquestions hey thank u so much for responding as fast as u did I wang to drive my v6 instead of my 8s due to gas prices but I'm going to try this, no one or no videos showed or said this can bus could be my problem and I replaced so much stuff becuase of what they said should help it
So the white wire coming outta fuse box (TIPM) is the can bus?
@@lilpotlilpan if it is two "twisted together" it could be - but you don't know for sure unless you get a wiring diagram
excellent thanks!!!
Anytime Dave - Cheers from Canada!
Will them wires make a no crank problem?
It's possible Mike
Common issue with any Dodge, Chrysler... They put the wiring or ECU under the front driver side wheel well...Some have the engine wiring harness going under the intake from the driver side to the passenger side. Which get hot over time under there. And they melt the wiring....And that harness is $350.00 US... I build news ones using automotive grade wiring made for high heat. Then use TESA tape to wrap them real good...
I would add. The shorting of the wiring is what cause the TIPM to go bad., So you have to fix the root cause. As I seen people put as new TIPM in. Only to fry that new one...
I've also seen loads with corrosion too -- Cheers!
Ant idea why my dashboard light came off and flickers sometimes or comes on when I use my turn signal but comes back off?? I have a 2001 VW Jetta GLS
which Dashboard Light are you referring to
@@carquestions My speedometer and RPMs light but my indicator lights still show up though 💭
@@brandonthomson60 you would need wiring diagrams for the dash lights to fix this - could be many things from corroded wiring, burned out lights to faulty switches - check VW forums to see if anyone else has had this particular issue
I have the "no bus" and codes U0140, U110E, U1403, U110C after replacing water pump in 2012 Dodge Journey RT. Is this the TPIM?
It could be but you need to get a deeper level scan to see whats going on - Cheers and good luck keep at it and you'll get it.
@@carquestions okay thank you
I have a 2008 charger. Getting U1411 and U1403 (implausible fuel level). Instrument cluster goes haywire flashing on and off and my fob stopped working. Can still start the car and drives fine. Instrument cluster started working fine now. I have looked over every darn wire and nothing. Can bus looks fine. TIPM looks fine. I'm at a loss with this problem.
Try jiggling or wetting connectors one at a time while running - experiment some more - keep at it and you'll get it - Cheers from Canada!
I have a 2011 ram 1500 5.7 I went to start it today it started right up but my cluster, dome lights and radio won’t turn on my built in trailer brake controller is flashing and my wipers stay on. Does it sound like a tipm
I'm a mechanic chasing a similar issue on my personal 2011 Ram. I'm pretty positive it's a electrical/can bus issue. Probably related to my leaking sunroof. Cold weather freezing temps. has seemed to make it worse. I'm suspecting connector 237 behind left side of dash. Haven't had time to investigate yet. For now I just let it warm up and it goes away.
Yep - very goofy -
Did you find the cause? Let me know - Cheers from Canada!
The problem ended up being a bad tcm now it seems I have a bad pcm
@@mikeshannon6313 Very rare to have a bad PCM - if your paying for someone to fix it remind them it better fix the problem you're not paying for guessing
You might have finaly pointed me in the right direction. Tried everything at stupid u-codes been causing me trouble for years. Not supposed to cause me not to pass smog as they are not emissions codes but replaced everything. Cost me 1000s but still codes remain. Tried everything I could think of. Except following the twisted pair
Try anything with the harnesses - move them away from metal they touch - look for signs of rubbing - take loom off - experiment as much as you can and definitely let me know how it works out - good luck- you"ll get it Justin just keep at it - Cheers from Canada!
I got the same problem right now. 2013 Dodge ram 4.7 V8 I got the ABS light on traction control light on the brake light is on speedometer doesn't work and for some odd reason the radio don't work. The codes I got was the u1110 u1120 and p0420 it's a customer's car and someone showed them to change his ABS pump and control module. So before I go removing the pump and the module. What should I do? Is it just wheel speed sensors that I need? Cuz that'll be really crazy if so. I know this thread is kind of old but someone please help me out. I'm not the greatest mechanic in the world, but something ain't adding up
Sorry for the late reply - radio is separate problem - just replace it - get codes for speed sensor and replace it - check all canbus wiring - moving it checking for rubbing etc
Truly just changed the ball joint. Everything cut off. Save me a lot of time.
Just put an engine in my 06 Dakota ran fine when i was trying to purge air from the coolant system i let it idle for 20 mins I come back its miss firing and all the lights on the dash. Scanner will not communicate with it. So guess im going to go and make sure i didn't pinch some fancy twisted wires
You are on the right track there for sure Buzz - wiring, grounds, connectors etc - let us know what you find - Cheers from Canada!
Did it work
Where would that be located on a 2005 dodge magnum
Same as C300 - google it - underhood fuse box usually
Having the EXACT same problem rn with my 2011 Jeep Liberty. I’ve tried moving around wires and looking for exposed spots and there is some casings being worn off but still nothing. I’ve cleaned all my ground my ground and even checked the wiring on the left side of the floor panel on the drivers side. Found nothing. I’m at a loss!!!
Move them one at a time just a bit - and tie them off with a bunji cord temporarily - see what happen - experiment more - let me know what happens
Same thing same vehicle too! My Jeep got a U0141 it’s a 2011 Liberty sport , the ac doesn’t work and my transmission doesn’t upshift either any tips or ideas?
@@untypical.gaming try my advice above - experiment with all the wires and take the TIPM out and have a close look inside it
I am getting the check TIPM on my Dodge Nitro 2007 3.7. My passenger front tire is not reading. I'll check this out.
The two issue are likely unrelated - just a dead tpm - let me know what you find
Having rhis problem with a 2004 chrysler 300 to where it wont start checked battery and cables but the blue and whit cable is behind the motor🤦♂️
Try to udue both ends of the cable and check for continuity /shorts
with a multimeter
Hi mate
I replaced new throttle body on 2013 Jeep Patriot, after couple of days there was an issue, when I start driving like 200 meters, the traction control on dashboard pops up and stays there till we stops car
Is that the same problem to my car too
When We diagnose it shows U110a code
I don’t understand
Please help me out thanks
You need a more advanced scan tool to pin point your problem - also disconnect battery for a few minutes. Cheers!
Alright today morning, I diagnosed and tried to delete codes but it came back straight away, especially Traction control
I opened the steering control module covers and I did detach all cables and assembled back, all codes cleared after that
In my point of view, it’s better to this way whatever the problem is!
@@balajibavuri6924 if the problem comes back right away its a hard fault - have you checked the wheel sensors?
@@carquestions yeah those abs sensors looks fine, I cleaned it with wd40
The main code was u110a which is steering control module, in a nutshell it’s a clock spring with angle sensor
Right now everything looks good but in future , if that comes back
I have to change it
@@balajibavuri6924 Also check your car for recalls and TSB's on abs and any other related systems first.
Great video on this issue! OK, I have 2007 Caliber SXT and replaced thermostats last week and discovered wires/harness in exact same position and the conduit (think you called it loom) just cracked apart and turned to dust as I squeezed it. I am looking at electrical related to transmission codes and do not see "CAN BUS" mentioned in the schematics. However last night I discovered twisted pair of wires (white with black and white with blue or green stripe) in driver side wheel well that had been repaired at some point and they do not look to be in very good condition. I am going to be testing some of these wires today; but I was wondering if the wires in that area of your car were ones going to output speed sensor.
I am getting P0717 and P0722 (input and output sensors) and also transmission overheat light coming on and going into limp mode; and these only started after my car was overheating, which is why I changed thermostats.
Also, maybe 3 weeks before I had overheating issue with cooling system my power steering went out - as a result of me getting stuck in mud and moving steering wheel back and forth in effort to get unstuck (tip - let air out of tires to about 17 lbs) - and I have not repaired that yet. Do you think that could have anything to do with transmission overheating?
I will do more research on the CAN BUS system, but was wondering how it is related to the schematics of sensors.
Thanks for video. Just wished is was my exact model.
sounds like separate problems but could be related - fix the twisted pair for sure - Cheers!
I have code u0101 and when I start it there’s a delay. When I drive it it won’t go past 3rd gear. When I switch gears from park to reverse or drive it’s rough shifts. What do you think I should do ?
Sounds like the problem I had - check and move the wiring and check the TIPM
@@carquestions where are the wires located I have a 05 Chrysler 300
@NLMB Quan did you ever fix this? If so, whats the fix? Same exact issues I'm having.
@@Cabeprestwood changed the tcm problem solved
@@nlmbquan5124 Thank you!
Okay I have a 2016 dodge caravan dashboard lights are coming on, doors won't unlock anymore without using my fob. They "think" is the tipm. Should I have them replace it? So expensive.
Josie - NO - absolutely not - UNLESS they say it will definitely solve the exact problems you asked them to fix - you are not paying them to TRY and fix it - they should have confidence in their diagnosis beyond a mere guess - ask why they haven't tried fitting a new TIPM when they were diagnosing it? swapping out suspected bad parts for known good ones is part of most troubleshooting and diagnosis procedures. - be very careful and get it in writing or take the vehicle somewhere else - seen this many times before - big bill - didn't fix anything
Thank you so much for responding so quickly!. This is a dealership too, where I bought the dang thing and I found it very odd and absurd that they "think" it might be he problem not know. I was told they would replace the tipm, if it didn't work they would need to dig deeper and would cost me more! 🥺
@@josiegarrett8388 They are the ones that brag about knowing their own vehicles better than anyone - this problem you have is more common than you know and therefore they should have seen it before and be familiar with fixing it - this is obviously not the case - take it to an independant garage that has a good rep for finding electrical problems - can't say it will be cheap - just that you will not be paying twice or more to fix the same issue.
@@carquestions thank you I scheduled a different shop to look at it. You're awesome glad I came across you!
@@josiegarrett8388 Anytime Josie - cheers from Canada!
My 2006 dodge charger rt is having the loss communication with the pcm problem too. I replaced the pcm and it was fine for a day. Im going to look at the wires on the can bus under the hood and mess with them and see what happens. I hope it works because it dies at lights and the pcm resets in the middle of driving.
Sounds good Let me know what happens Cheers from Canada
@@carquestions Yeah that didn't do anything unfortunately.
@@FA-FridleysArsenal so you haven't been able to get any codes at all? - how are the basics like charging system operation and output - fuel pressure etc?
@@carquestions Sorry for butting in but i have the same year make and model car with the same problem, replaced the same part and the same results. The charging symptoms dont seem to be working cause my battery continues to be drained and my fuel pressures seem fine.
@@eriksaffold1405 Get the codes and let me know - Cheers!
Any high voltage codes found? Usually those pop up when theres a short
No Strat - just loss of com - Cheers!
@@carquestions was that wire exposed to metal touching ? Or not ?
@@ChrisSglimbeaelectricfingers No but getting close - I think it was some kind of EMF on the coolant pipe it was rubbing and mounted against.
I have a 2019 ram 1500 and the same thing is happening to me with dash lights going crazy, warning lights popping up, rpms fluctuating etc and not sure exactly what to do had to get me vehicle towed and can’t get to work and waiting to bring the truck into the dealership.
Lots of free recalls on that model so have them check that first - also if they suggest a repair make sure to ask if it will definitely fix your issue - you are not going to pay them to "try" or "guess" - let me know what happens. Cheers from Canada!
@@carquestions ok great thank you!!
@@carquestions well check engine turned off itself it was on ever since the problem occurred and now it shut off.
@@FRIVZ306 Check for codes now - problem may come back
@@carquestions its 100% electrical I know that but the problem is intermittent
Just spent three days cleaning sensors and throttle body and hard resetting my tipm and everything else you said. I just want to scream. Are you telling me this wiring thing doesn't even require a reset of any kind??
Sorry a reset doesn't seem to do it - it's the twisted pair of wires for the can bus system that is the problem - or corrosion between the layers of the TIPM - move your wire harness away from metal parts and test each time to see if the problem changes in any way - Cheers from Canada! Michelle and good luck - keep at it and you'll get it.
My van has still never started again but I finally managed to get an ohms meter and will be able to test. I found a gps tracking unit under the dash that was just spliced into my remote start antenna as well as my immobilizer. Seriously, they had simply removed a small portion of the casing and then wrapped about two inches of wire around that space and taped it. The blue and purple wires they had done correctly but no doubt in my mind the others had at very least, left an open circuit. If that wasn't the cause of my van slipping into limp home mode I will be shocked. Unfortunately, it still won't start after removal and another full reset. The abs and traction control light stay on on the dash too. Keep in mind I couldn't test anything so I have yet to replace the circuit breaker or any relays. I've simply moved around what I could and did try a bypass on the fuel pump. Crazy I can even write these things. I grew up in "the system" and can't even figure out how to do a budget but somehow I've learned all of this so far. LOL
Is your Dodge still driving without a problem? I have the same exact issue right now with my 2011 Jeep Liberty. I just left O'Reilys I received U1110 & U1120.
Yep - its running fine - try moving the wires around a bit
I thought it was e abs module I need to try
I have a dodge challenger 2014 and i had to fix so many items in this car that is ridiculous.
Ac, compressor
Ac controls
Time chain
Water pump twice
Head lamps relay
Sun roof mechanisms and sensor
Smart glass (windows auto up)
TIPM (part of computer? $1700.00
Trunk release mechanism
Check engine light multiple times
Etc
Etc.
Is for sale cheap and will be my very last dodge/Chrysler vehicle i buy.
Frviz - you have reached the correct conclusion - try Toyota / Lexus next time
I have a 2017 Jeep Renegade Trailhawk it went in for its yearly inspection (I'm in New York) to Meineke. It did not pass due to u0100 and u0001 codes. I've had no trouble like I've been reading about everything seems to be running fine. The mechanic told me to drive 75 to 100 miles and bring it back, which I did. Still had the same codes. Went to auto zone and borrowed their reader it came back no issue. I also checked the battery voltage and it's fine as well. Basically, I'm asking, one, can I go by auto zones reader and two, If everything is running fine what would cause those codes? Thanks for any advice.
Try getting an inspection at a different location - sounds like a tool issue not a car problem - Cheers from Canada!
My challenger did the same. Turns out I had a loose ground from my underglow.
Good to hear FM - not everything can be blamed on the TIPM - Cheers from Canada!
I got a U1412 code, is that abs problems
It can be related to speed or vehicle speed sensors which are in turn part of the ABS system so yes - Let me know what happens - Cheers from Canada!
my truck did the same thing... but no codes stored and now no crank
Check all connections real close on battery and starter - clean them as well even if they look good
I have a 2012 dodge Durango citadel 5.7 my dash lights going crazy and I’m also having a misfire in cylinder 5 previous owner replaced coil pack only the electrical part I heard can cause a misfire I heard not sure where to start I’m thinking about tipm and also need a transfer case module my awd says it needs to be service only have misfire while idling or under a low load if your on the gas you don’t feel
First step - get codes - also a cylinder pressure test would be something I'd do
Getting codes p0305 , u0102 cylinders already were checked they are all good no issues there
Are you 100% positive they did a cylinder pressure test - it ain't cheap@@ginocrisano4804
@@carquestions yes he took it to a shop and had it done
@@carquestions I just checked though he told me he replaced coil pack on cylinder 5 and he put could pack in cylinder 3 so tomorrow going to swap to see if it travels if it does I’ll replace that but the electrical issue I’m not sure think it might be tipm and the transfer case control module I can get them cheap I figure just replace them both
My sons 2013 Chrysler 200 was so far diagnosed with, bad battery, then etc, then gas pedal sensor, went to a different dealer due to idiot lights till coming on . That dealer said bad alternator, with killed the new battery, when they fixed that abs, traction control, brake lights came on.Now they say I need and module and some hydraulic whatever...Chrsyler, a disgrace, my last American car
Sorry to hear that - you are also a victim of incompetent mechanics - your right - Get a Toyota
My went wacky and stalled I had lose fuses
I've got an 06 Magnum non abs car and it keeps throwing U1120 lost wheel distance message, replaced the two speed sensors on the trans, replaced the right front wheel speed sensor and the speedo still doesn't work. I checked all the wiring from the FCM to the sensor itself and didn't see anything bad, and everything else in the car works like it should. I've been working on cars for years and I've bought and sold so many and I've never had one where the speedo doesn't work. I've talked to so many people on this issue and they say it's either the speed sensor or the FCM. I swapped the FCM with a same part number FCM and it still doesn't work. I'm completely lost at this point. And because of the U1120 code my cruise doesn't work either. I can't find a wiring diagram for where the grounds are either. I swapped in a used good cluster and it didn't help either.
T- Wayne - Somethings like this can drive you nuts - The very first step now is to get access to an online wiring diagram - this could be a TIPM issue but for now so you don't waste time and money replacing parts - I'd start with a very careful check of all wiring, connector ends and grounds measuring voltage and resistance - be careful and do wiggle test and you will eventually find your issue - stick with it - you can fix it. Let me know how you make out. Cheers from Canada!
@@carquestions since mine is an 06, it doesn't have a TIPM. it's the PDC with the FCM on the front(power distribution center and front control module) the can bus system is very fragile and people have tapped into wires in the harness in the drivers kick panel and tapped into the ignition switch wiring and it all seems okay. Trust me I spent all last Sunday pulling all the tape off the wiring to the fcm and front wheel speed sensor where the can bus wiring was and didn't find any issues. I used my test light and my meter and checked for continuity. I still can't find the issue. It can't be that hard.
@@thagerdorn2009 you need the wiring diagram to do some testing as well - does the trans sensor generate a signal when it should? etc etc - used parts swapping is a good idea if you know the parts are good otherwise who knows. - start experimenting.
I've been chasing this issue for a few weeks now. Have you found anything?
Having the same issue with my 2008 jeep liberty,.....I will update
Great let us know Kid - cheers from Canada!
Update ? Same car same issue
I have a 2006 Jeep commander. When I was driving my speedometer, tachometer, coolant gauge, gas gauge, turn signals, front power windows, power locks, radio, sun roof,headlight control, wipers, all stopped working at once and all of my warning lights popped on. My drive select indicator doesn’t show what gear I’m in and my odometer is stuck on 167,141, it won’t change. I have lost my acc cluster when I turn the key, but if I close or open any door it comes back on with all the warning lights, but no gauges working, almost like closing or opening a door is triggering something.
I’ve checked all fuses and relays and all seems fine. I’ve cleaned all my grounds in the engine bay. I’ve inspected most of the wiring in the engine bay. I have changed my ignition switch 2 times bought from 2 different stores.
I’ve had the car scanned and got codes:
u1411, u0114, u140e, c2202, u0100, u0141, and u0101.
Been trying to resolve this for almost a week now. One time the car came back to normal for about 1 minute, I touched the power button on the radio and it went back to the electrical problems. I’ve since removed the radio and it still won’t go back to normal.
This is very frustrating, especially when I can’t find anyone that has had these symptoms.
My last resort is the dealership.
Any ideas or ever heard of this happening?
Thank You!
Ya - start moving and checking the wires near your TIPM - I could let mine to act goofy by just moving the wires - let me know what you find - Cheers from Canada!
@@carquestions I just figured it out. I saw a video this morning that was kind of buried in the algorithm lol. The other Commander had some of the same symptoms, so I figured I should just give it a shoot. For now it seems to be melted wires under the 2nd row of seats, under the tray, under the carpet. Those wires sit directly onto the floor pan and under that floor pan is the muffler. It gets so hot there that the floor pan itself is discolored from getting to hot.
I started my Commander with all the issues and went over and started separating the melted wires. All of a sudden I heard a ding and looked up and my tachometer was back to normal, and all the warning lights went out. So now I have to separate those wires, solder and heat shrink and find some conduit to cover them, maybe even some heat shield. This could be a lot of peoples issues with no start or electrical problems, pass it on.
Thank You for the help!
@akaredcrossbow hello, can you be a bit more especific about the location of this wires? I'm having similar problems! Thanks
@@12masterr here is the video I watched. czcams.com/video/0yM1Akptrrc/video.html
At about 13:49 is where the problem wires are.
Also you must check to see if your muffler has any holes on the top of it, even with the heat shield it was still burning my carpet. I also had to change the muffler to correct the problem, because there was a big sized hole letting the exhaust gasses heat up the floor pan.
Hope this helps.
@@akaredcrossbow thanks!
Went to the carwash and had a undercarriage rinse. Once I started my car up everything was going off just like the start of your video. Had a diagnosis had multiple codes p0513 u0001 u0402 mechanic says he think it's the (TIPM) which can cost up to $1,200 if this true or could it also be something else ??? Also, he said some kind of shield underneath was cracked. Does with the undercarriage rinse I had did water got up in somewhere ??? How does a new timp cost ??? The amount of labor time... Also, is it worth fixing or junk it ???
I don't know your car's value Reg so difficult to say but TIPMs are expensive for sure $1200 not uncommon - sorry
@@carquestions thanks... Already in the process of getting fixed . the guy who's a specialist with the Chrysler Dodge and Jeep and can get parts really fast and really cheap.