TOWN & COUNTRY CARAVAN NO BUS DIAGNOSTIC
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
- Customer brought in a 2014 Chrysler Town and Country minivan. The vehicle runs and drives fine, but many of the accessories were not working. The windows were not operating, the radio / navigation screen head unit was not turning on, the A/C controls were not operational, the windshield wipers stayed on continuously, the steering wheel control buttons were not working and there was a message on the instrument cluster display that said “NO BUS”. In this video I take this opportunity to share my knowledge about CAN BUS communication systems and how troubleshooting these errors can be simple. This should also apply to Dodge Caravan owners.
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Fantastic explanation of your troubleshooting methods! Great to mention that modules can interfere with one another! People often forget that a BUS is a shared resource that any module can mess with.
WOW! Thank you so Very Much! I've been pulling my hair out trying to figure this same problem out. And, also I had a problem with the Tailgate Lift & it would not open manually. Not sure if that was also a problem with your customer's vehicle. I bought this 2008 T&C with a "3 day warranty" ,, UGH! I called Dealers and friends to find an answer. I was stuck away from home with this problem. 6 hours later, when I happened to pull the driver's side cargo door closed... Boom! everything lit back up and the van was back to normal. Next day(today), the ghost was back again. And you have now kept a grown man from crying! Thank you so much. I was asked if the van had been in a flood, because that causes some wonky things to happen. You were very educational, but WAY over my head. Thank God that you put this video up, and I can be helped a year later. And thank your customer, too.
Awesome! I’m glad I could help!
That was an awesome diagnostic process! Definitely a lot of manual labor involved, but so satisfying to see the CAN network come back to life :)
Thank you for watching! Btw I'm a big fan of your channel!
Where is your shop located?
very good your videos! Another easy way to identify problems in the Can network would be to turn off the “star connects”, so you can identify which module is bringing down the network
Thanks for this video. Had the issue pop up the day my Caravan turned 100,000 miles. I found this video and started by disconnecting the rear DVD monitor and ac. The DVD monitor was causing the No Bus code. Saved me tons on dealership diagnostic costs. Excellent video!
You sir, are an automotive deity! This was 100% the problem with our 2016 Grand Caravan. I fixed the problem in about 10 minutes max
Thank you so much for this video, you probably saved us 100s of dollars at the repair shop. We have a Town and Country S minivan that had the same problem. It started after washing the vehicle. The problem was the drivers side rear door where the connection got wet from power washing. Again, thank you!!
I'm so glad this video was able to help you!
@@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO just washed out vehicle and experiencing the same problems. Once it dries out did it fix problem or did you still have to disconnect something?
I have a 2013 Caravan….is there still a module in the roof climate control w/o having DVD option? I have tried most other modules without success…any insight appreciated. Thanks
@@dirtystayouts24in thinking the same thing since the rear ac on my 2012 grand caravan doesn't work and now the lights come on randomly draining the battery while sitting in the driveway. there are wires in the sliding doors I'm going to check, as well as the driver door wiring, as those can break most easily apparently
Holy crap! This video saved my life! (I may be slightly exaggerating) How could I have possibly known that ONE tiny broken wire in the driver's side slider could cause such a mess! Thank you! Thank You! THANK YOU!!
I’m glad I could help
Bravo Sir. This video needs to be noticed ASAP. Wonderful presentation. I'm just scratching my head about not having splices. That radio interface to me looked like Chrysler's powerNet thing they have going on where the splices are under the glove box tucked up in there. I know the Darts have them. But u were there present at that time so I'm pretty sure u are right that it didn't have splices. Bravo again Sir. Hope the big dawgs in the CZcams world take a look at this. Bless 😇
Thank you!
Nice fix. Good thought process and explanation of your work. One slight shortcut is that you can unplug each front door in the jamb without having to pull door panels, saves a few precious minutes
This topic is intimidating, if only because of the specialty tools and the way communication is more complex than simple power and ground. However the more I think about it, basic principles still apply. It is also helpful in some systems to have end module resistors in parallel to allow a multimeter to measure resistance and infer the status of the wires (open, short, or good). The worst of this for general mechanics is the lack of normal values and poor communication of those standards in the dealer repair manual. In the end, your theme to disconnect modules one at a time and watch the signal seems to be reliable and systematic. I'm gonna have to tap into these circuits a few times to better appreciate how they work in normal vehicles. Another brilliant video, Eric.
The front doors have a connection that's easy to unplug, where the door wire loom flex thing meets the frame. Seems easier to just quickly unplug the whole thing for the door test and go further if signals change 🤔
I bought an 08 Caravan super cheap and it stunk really bad! I got lucky and noticed the whole interior CAN would cut out when the door was open as I scanned it with the door open...it was so gross smelling but improved with the door shut, it also had a door module code. I could also see the wires in the door flex were installed backwards by someone and jamming the wires in the door as it closed. Made for a nice easy problem to spot, a week before I wanted to go on a 3000km trip. I even had time to shampoo it and drive around to verify the fix. Both CAN lines shorting to each other and 8 bad wires in total where the door wires flexed.
Thanks for the great detailed videos on everything, so much to learn 😊
INCREIBLE!! Gracias por compartir Este video , anoche mi carro Dio todos esos problemas y vivo en un lugar donde hace mucho calor , no tenia aire ,no bajaban los Vidrios , no tenia radio , luces .
Este video merece un million de likes .
Un abrazo .
Just finnished doing my Smog Update CAN Communication Diagnostic Course, I thought this was an AWESOME Video... You are a great teacher and very knowledgeable and it's the best explanation I have seen... Thankyou Keep it up...
Best video I have found for understanding BUS & Module systems Thank you
I'm sure you (and your customer) wished the first module you tried was the bad one!! I'm working on a different Chrysler product, but the troubleshooting procedure remains the same. My CAN bus lines show continuity between TIPM, Cluster, radio, etc, but does not show any resistance between the two lines themselves. I also see comms on the bus, but the cluster still shows "no bus". My car remains something of a mystery, but you gave a good explanation, and I appreciate the extra effort it takes to make the video.
Our 2011 t&c started doing the same as the one in your video, seems to have started shortly after we went through a self carwash.. it goes away at times but comes right back.. three shops have tried finding the problem with no luck..the dealer was one of them.. They tried selling us a new one instead.. though charged over 200 dollars for basically nothing..i tried disconnecting the roof and no luck... Thank you anyway for the video, it gives a lots of encouragement , i will try disconnecting the rear sliding doors next..thank you 👍
Man just bought a 2013 doung the same, that was extremely valuable knowledge...excellent Job sir.
Here is an idea you can try in a future "No Canbus" scenario. Basically connect only a positive external +5vdc supply to the Canbus reference line; no negative, or no ground connection from the 5vdc supply.
Connect a 5v volt step-down voltage-regulator to the car battery, while keeping the car battery connected to the car. Then connect only the positive 5v output lead from the voltage-regulator to a known Canbus 5v-reference wire within the car. The Canbus should "come alive". Now connect the OBD scanner to determine which module is at fault.
Most wont get it but always attack easiest first
That’s a great find, thing is with these kind of faults they are so time consuming( I do it every day)but the customer just doesn’t see it ... well done 👍
Thanks for the video! Sad that the engineers created something so complicated to run down the issue. A plastic module that in the cost of the Toal car is pennies on the dollar cost hours of Mechanic labor. With technology I hope they can create something that once you put it on the scan will tell you EXACTLY were the problem is so the auto owner doesn't have to pay hours of labor to find a $5 part that malfunctioned. Yet I am so thankful for the video it was very informative Seems to be a Chrysler, Dodge Jeep issue for sure.
Fiat-Chry have had 15year now to change this, but they wont do it. It's their real income you are touching & it's HUGE.
Same as adding an 300hp 3.6vvt to an 200hp 62te-transmission makes them all break down giving an extra 6-12,000$ income every 100-172,000 miles.
Awesome video. Our lights went out on our van as well as other goofy things, and after researching causes, I came across your video. I then disconnected the DVD module and it all worked again. Thank you!!!
Super in depth and I don't have the fancy equipment to take advantage of all the knowledge you just shared but I sat and watched the whole thing anyway. Really nicely done video.
Thank you! I appreciate that!
Excellent video with a very good explanation of all your troubleshooting procedures and the reasoning behind them and what we were observing while you were doing them. very well put together thank you for your time and knowledge. 👍
Thank you!
Great video. Having simular issues with 14 Town and country. Saved me hours. Thx.
Thanks for the video. Had all of this nonsense happen yesterday on my 2014 dodge grand caravan. It was my rear tv also. Great video!
You are a great teacher, knowledge, methodology, energy ...👍 well done
Great diagnostic skills, I learned a lot watching your videos.
Thank you!
You can only drive this van in the rain. Great video. This is why I hate computers. They can do really weird stuff when things go wrong.
Great Diagnose! Sometimes disconnecting modules is the only way to locate the CAN or IHS problem.
Great diag,bud.
Had a ford f150 ,customer left window down and it rained ,few days later no start,no comm.
Module got water damage.
That's why my personal car is all mechanical lol.
exelent information thank you : one thing l didn't understood is how the scanner was communicating when the braker box was connected to obd at same time .
Great diagnosis using a simple 'cause and effect ' type of format, other than the lab scope functions. You would think with all the program[s] sophistication and high/low speed 'data bursts' between the IHS portion of the TIPM and the LIN system or modules tied into the network, some type of parameter ID could monitor and identify what module's resistance value increases or decreases +/- 20% from a specified value. When that specific resistance value is exceeded, the corresponding module that deviates beyond the preset parameter would trigger a 'CE' light to notify the operator or technician like yourself who has the correct scan tool and diagnostic software. I realize the customer had spent a significant amount on your labor fees via the poor design of not having accessible splices and a single location for the numerous modules, however, I noticed a child's safety seat in the back; and the customer did not wish to have you repair a speed sensor on a small mini-van to make sure the break system was in top shelf condition? Maybe he has recently experienced other unknown debts, I guess. I would certainly state his refusal to Not repair the ABS system on his invoice as a matter of CYA. Video is a Great learning tool; and condensed to boot!
So what you're saying is every vehicle and there's millions of them that have no or inoperable antilock brakes is some kind of a form of child abuse? Hopefully you see the real child abuse is letting a child think there's something they're not and even supporting it with your time and your money or even worse taxpayers funds. That's child abuse that will affect them their entire life.
Nice work, especially for your first time! Enjoyed watching your logical approach. I will give just one time saving tip. After you compete your car auto scan, you can press report down around the bottom of the screen to see all codes in one page, at the same time, that way you won't need to go in and out of each module to check for codes. Really enjoyed this one, reminded me of my jeep comm video 😆 yours is much more detailed and explained. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the tip! I shot this video almost a year ago, right after I had just bought the Maxisys, so I was still getting used to it. I finally got around to editing and posting it this past week. I really enjoy your channel btw
ADVANCED LEVEL AUTO cool man. Hey thanks! Glad you enjoy it!
Of course I will watch this video. We have a 08 Town and country and a 16 Town and country. Wife just loves them and wont buy anything else. Its just up to me to keep them running. And you just know I will run into this.
We have a 2011 T&C and just Love it! 130K and only 1 TIPM issue under warranty.
I worked on my cousin's T&C van, similar issues with all of the devices in the vehicle when you would close the door when running.
I found the proximity (collision) sensors in the rear bumper corroded and corrupting the bus signal, disconnected them and everything went back to normal, we left them that way because they were $700 each! They were the same part number as some Mercedes cars.
I also worked on a 2014 Chevy truck with a totally dead bus, a critter had nipped a wire in the harness near the rear shock, critters are a big problem in the last dozen years.
Great video. I am a dyi enthusiast and your explanations and thought process are extremely helpful. thanks for this and other videos
I found your well explained, very informative video by doing a search for the same problem that occurred instantly prior to everything being functioning flawlessly 10 minutes earlier. I can not thank you enough. You've me so much time, a trip to a repair shop where I would have had to spend unnecessary money, especially when dealing with some if not most dishonest mechanics. Once again, thank you.
You are amazing at providing a vast amount of information that has helped me understand what to look at. Thank you so much!
I am having the exact same issue on my 2014 chrysler town and country. I have pretty much came to the same stopping point. I was hoping that you would be able to show how to test the components individually to find which module was at fault. I will figure it out. Great video. Confirmed I was looking in the right direction.
I have a 2008 Chrysler T & C and having similar issues but things are flashing on and off not staying off. I had already noticed my overhead HVAC controls don’t work quite right and was just over riding them with my front controls but now I am going to get up there and check them out after this. Thank You for your detailed video.
Hey, so what happened when you checked out the top hvac controller better?
@@stevendlent I haven’t gotten up there to check it yet as it hasn’t been a big priority. I did find that my cluster lite show was caused by a bad ground. The one on the passenger side motor mount was in poor shape. I also did a big 3 upgrade to ensure grounds wouldn’t be an issue. I also added one more extra grounding from the alternator to frame. No issues since then with the light show. I haven’t gotten a chance to double check to see if the rear vents work correctly since then.
Fantastic video, you are a great mechanic. These electrical problems can be so perplexing sometimes. You don't always get lucky when your diagnostic can't pinpoint the exact problem. Thanks for sharing all your work on this! I was wondering if you know if there is an easy way to diagnose a low beam headlight not coming on that's not the bulb assy. Is there a test for the ballast?
Very Cool! I'm studying for the ASE A6 and I've never done CAN BUS troubleshooting, great to see!
Excellent informative video. Thanks for sharing your time and expertise with all of us!
thanks brother, awesome diag. i have found many problems in the roof. great explanation.
Thanks for watching!
Nice video. You explainations are done in a way people can understand. I assume that when you left the module disconnected you also disabled the rear air system?
Excellent video! Now I have to figure out where I need to start on the modules. Maybe the DVD/rear HVAC? Thanks!
Dude, that Bus video was Gold! You just saved me maybe hundreds of dollars. Mine was the driver side door module. Same exact symptoms. Thanks!
Saved my life!!! Thank you so much!!! Even tho I have a different van it still worked the same way.
Honestly thank you for taking your time making the video and also for the CAN bus system , really simplified it cheers mate * UK *
I have a 2014 Town and country van. All the lights on the dash are lighten, and go out, and come back on ever so often. The windshield wipers come on and don't shut of, so I pull the fuse. It's say the Blind spot system needs to looked at. I took of the bumper and took a closer look. Connections were dirty, and the moguls were in good shape. So I cleaned up the bumper, and all the tape to hold the wiers up out of the rain. Blinkers work most of the time. Still don't know where the lose wire might be. Each connection I find and can get to I clean it out and put some electrical grease in the connections.
Go for the easy stuff to disconnect first, Great Video 👍 one of the best presentations with high quality video I have seen on this subject matter
Thank you!
Very good video, I'm definitely glad I found this channel communication faults are my weakest area and you did a great job explaining and showing how you got down to the answer.
Thank you!
Hey, FYI there are star connectors mounted under the dash to disconnect all those module in one place, Makes it really fast to diagnose with out disassemble of the interior, I really liked your video.
I tried looking, but couldn't find them. Thanks for watching!
Can you elaborate on how to find those?
I am having the same the problem with my van, very informative I feel there is a few simple things I can try now to cut down on labor cost 😬🙏
Awesome knowledge, bro
Thank you so much for explaining about the CAN types involved in this vehicle. This video is very useful for myself.
Thanks again!👍👍👍
Thank the Lord im a retired mechanic,the good old carb days.No computers.Unfortunately.I retired in 2014.And had to learn and word on this nightmare generation,which every year gets worst,and worst.The space ship is the next compact.
You have such a gift!! Awesome work Eric!! Love the whiteboard also!
Thank you for watching!
This one definitely goes into my Can /bus comunication problem reference videos for future brain refresh.thank you you have another subscriber.
Another superb video, Thanks for teaching all us Dummies
Great diag and nice explanations. Too bad about no splice in can bus. Would have made it easier. Wife has same van, can’t wait for it to act up. No DVD option in ours so one less thing to act up. (Thanks youFiat/Chrysler technology!) Look forward to your next video...
Thanks!
Really nice work you did!
This is really a German Bosch design where everything is a 3rd party vendor module... profit center!
It's all nice and fancy but these system should diagnose themselves... just like airplanes do. Instead any single individual module can disrupt the whole bus, WTF. These days Benz has 5 to 8 separate buses connected through a gateway in order to isolate failures by order of importance (Ex: windows can't screw up transmission)
Excellent, that problem is prevalent in caravan and vw Ruttan and I will disconnect the same module and see what the result is
Great Video Thank you never know when this might be handy as a T&C owner
This guy is like a young Albert Einstein! WOW!
Great troubleshooting technique !
This just saved me hundreds of dollars! Thank you!
Love the troubleshooting process. Great video.
Thank you for sharing!
I just want to thank you for your videos.i have watched 2 of them and they are really interesting.thank you for sharing
Thank you for watching!
You are en excellent teacher. what an awesome and logical video you created. Move over Albert Einstein.
Thank you for watching!
Once you pin point the mod that is not communicating, in this case it was the dvd player, HOW did you fix it? Or did you just leave it disconnected?
Awesome troubleshooting skills! Thank you for sharing!
Thank you bro. You got a lot of patience. Keep on posting those videos.
Thank you very much. You save me a lot of money.
Excellent diagnosis video!
Thank you for SHARING, you have helped me tremendously
Great video, although I was lost a couple of times it all makes sense. Thanks.
could u have tried doing bidirectional control of the different systems with your picoscope or verus?
Thank you so much, went right back to normal. Great video.
Yes ! Awesome vid and great tackling ot down to its core bruh !! Nice!! 👍🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼, were are u located ? I have a very similar issue just bc i swapped a donor BCM on a dodge charger srt8 2014! And soon as i did that i lost immediate interior comunication on car plus HVAC strted blowing hot air at max!! Uconnect has no power radio no power dark screen !! Also no headlights switch will not allow to turn on or off no signal there and no signal on the front left driver door only to operate windows or power locks !! So pretty much similar issue !!! The only code on dash is an ambient voltage HIGH !! I guess thats why my heater is blowing hot steam as ambiant sensor reads negative 17 dgree when is 80 out side!! So may be the short or issue may sit in this ambient sensor code voltage HIGH!! So yea donor BCM swap nd this happends , i decided to put back original BCM and got the car to start only to get all these other issues that were not there prior !!along as for the BCM swapping ,
great explanation on can bus. thanks.
Thank you!
Good diag. Not sure if you tried disconnecting the door entirely. Most doors have a single connector at the hinge which would’ve made the diag a little faster since you wouldnt have had to take the door panels off. Either way good diag with good direction. I know it sucks when you can’t find the exact cause but at the end of the day if the customer doesn’t have the money you gotta stop there and keep moving.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge
No problem. Thanks for watching!
Very good diagnosis!
Thank you for watching!
Wish I could find a mechanic in Denver with the same qualifications there is another fellow in you tube who is just as capable
Excellent,excellent,excellent
Another fine Chrysler product.
Excellent job. And I subscribed. You have a very informative channel.
That was a awesome diagnosis
enjoyed the video great job explaning the CAN SYSTEM
Very nice job.
Excellent trouble shooting thanks for posting.
Just incredible!
tx I had a light in my overhead DVD unit that would turn on by itself. I thought their was a short in the unit. After watching your video I will disconnect it to see it the bus cluster will work.
I've had the same problem with all my lights coming on and staying on so I will be checking it.
very informative thanks
Would it have been possible to just pull the fuses for the modules one by one while looking at the scope? Of course, if the CAN wires were shorted in the module that wouldn't work, but in this case I wonder if that wouldn't save time.
Thank you for your video. i exactly have the same issue .grand caravan 2013. But the speedometer light is not working at all. Tomorrow ill try your way
I like so much this video is why I am sucribe right now very very good video 👍👍👍
Body control module - check power doors rotting and wires under front left fender. My 2002 body control, pcm, tipm, and tcm ... Bcm is interior.. plus, the car security in the pcm
WOW, what an education! Thank you!
Your video really helped us, but we couldn't find the problem on a Dodge Caravan 2014. We checked both door modules, the monitor and radio modules, also the DRL module. Also, recently the customer changed her fuse box due to this problem.
If you could write back and help us figure out this problem, we would truly appreciate it! Thanks
Did you figured out have the same issues ?
Most CTCs fails in the drivers doors rubber boot to A-pillar plug. Check the twisted Canbus cables there.
I have the same van and I'm going threw the same thing so your telling me that something in the van is making it go crazy