7 Ways to Prevent Rust on Your Tools
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- čas přidán 8. 07. 2024
- 0:00 Introduction
0:50 Dehumidifier
1:32 Dust Collector
1:58 Enclosed Space
2:35 Camphor
3:30 Wax
4:28 Oil
5:47 Nipping Rust In The Bud
Author/craftsman Nick Engler shares seven valuable secrets that he employs to keep the tools in his woodworking shop from rusting. Rust, he explains, is an electrochemical reaction between three substances - iron, oxygen, and water. You can’t remove the iron or the oxygen, so you must cut down the amount of water that comes in contact with your tools. This means either reducing the humidity or moisture in your shop, or sealing off your tools from the humidity and moisture. Nick shows several ways to do both.
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And thank you so much for your time and interest!
As a replacement for WD-40 (which doesn't have much staying power), you should give Boeshield a try. It doesn't displace water from a wet tool, but on a dry tool it does a great job of leaving a long term protective layer. Also, for those of us who do not have a dedicated workshop but use our garage, put a magnetic engine block heater on your table saw, drill press, or other larger tools. You can even attach one to the bottom of a large rollaway metal toolbox. This will prevent the warm humidity coming off of a rainy car from condensing on those tools.
Two good tips, thanks for sharing. Another viewer turned us on to T-9, and we've been quite impressed.
Glad to see you're back Nick. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with the community and future woodworkers.
Thank you. It's good to be back. Been off building airplanes for the last few years.
Thank you again for your sound, straightforward approach. You help me a lot.
I keep coming back and rewatching this video. A LOT of good information in this one. Thank you for the reference, Mr. Engler!
Thanks
Definitely encountered all of these problems in my first two years of dabbling and acquiring second hand tools that come already rusty. Great advice! Thanks
Most welcome.
I keep an assortment of tools in my cars and trucks just in case. It's very difficult to keep them from rusting. I could certainly wax or oil them a couple times a year, but who needs another chore. But the only alternative I had for a long time was to remove the light rust every couple years. Oiling probably would have been faster and easier, but I wouldn't think about it until I needed the tools and saw the rust. I've been using Zerust tabs for a few years now and they work as advertised, but I'm looking forward to trying camphor. It's always nice when you can solve a problem with inexpensive, commonplace products. It might have the secondary benefit of keeping mice out of my vehicles. Thanks for the tip.
Thank you! very informative.
I've only recently stumbled across your channel, but I love the way you talk to us, not at us, and I like the pace. I'm going to watch every video you have ever made.
Thanks for saying.
I am glad Scott @ my growth ring put the link to you up have been watching your sawdust sessions everytime i need a refresher on something shopsmith related. I got one of your book at garage sale recently loved it too
Glad you are back. Thanks for the suggestions,
Thanks, Gary. More to come, I hope.
Useful tips Nick! Thanks 👌👌👌
I'm a beginner woodworker and this channel is super helpful! You're awesome man keep up the great work!
Thanks.
My neighbour is from Denmark and when he moved in he put up a shed with a solar collector and small integral fan - apparently they use them a lot in Denmark to keep lukewarm air moving around the shed.
thank you fella, very informative
I have found that the silicone socks sold through gun shops and online gun stores for rust prevention during the storage of firearms work very well for block and bench planes.. I have never found any residue on a tool that could mess up a finish but I suppose there is a first time for everything.
That was good. Thank you. I'm pretty new to this stuff, never really thought to just give some of my tools a light coat of WD-40. Good idea.
Practical and simple, what's not to like.
Enjoyed your lesson. Not many people know what WD stands for. Another good one is RTV, which stands for Room Temperature Vulcanizing. Another interesting fact I learned while in the Air Force, is they use WD40 on the A-10 aircraft engine periodically. Thanks again, awaiting your next lesson!
You are fantastic. Combining woodworking and science to fully explain what you are doing. I'm so impressed by you technique I've subscribed to your channel. I've been watching youtube for years and this is the only channel I've subscribed too.
Thanks...and welcome.
I tend to keep some packets of silica gel (the things you get with new shoes) with delicate tools in enclosed boxes.
Tends to work too.
great video; thanks for sharing
Very helpful - rust is a constant battle but now It will be a little easier. Thanks
You're most welcome.
6:50 - Good tip !
Always good old-fashioned, solid information. You gotta live it!
Or even love it!
@@johnstarkie9948 that too! lol
Thanks for the great video Nick. I used to watch you back in the Shopsmith days. It's good to see you again! 👍
Thanks. Good to see you see me again.
Thank You So Very Much for the information in this video. :) :)
Beyond awesome sir!
Thanks.
Another great video, Nick! I just posted a video tonight on my channel about me attacking (bud nipping!) the rust on a new-to-me Shopsmith jointer, and one of my viewers (Chad) mentioned this video. FOr a moment I feared that he shared your infamous potato video, but was happy to see how well you tackled this topic. I'll make sure to link to it in the description of my video and thanks for the reminder of the camphor blocks! I'd completely forgotten about them. Scott
Oh gawd, the potato video. Works, but I don't ever think I' smelled anything worse. Just the opposite of the camphor blocks -- opening the drawers in my tool cabinet is a pleasure just because of them.
@@WorkshopCompanion I bet! Still, someone had to do it!
Scotch brite pads are very effective abrasives but they over do it when you only want to remove rust while leaveing the natural dark oxide coating that resist further rusting. Steel wool with WD40 used as a slurry carrier is a better alternative to remove rust while retaining a rust resistant oxide coating and some residual WD40 oil.
As always, first-rate advice.
I use moisture-absorbing dessicant packs in my tool chests and drawers, but I have never heard of using camphor pellets, a very cool idea.
I also use Boeshield T-9, a lightweight paraffin-based lubricant designed for aerospace anticorrosion applications (Boeshield for "Boeing shield"). It works very well for planes, chisels, knives, scrapers, drill bits, etc., because it lubricates yet doesn't attract dust. I have used this for about ten years and I am pleased with the product.
And, as you said, the old standbys, WD-40 and paste wax, not to mention very light coats of 3-in1 oil, are useful for just about everything, anytime, anywhere.
Thanks!
All good stuff -- thanks for sharing.
+1 for T-9. It gets into the nooks and crannies like WD40, but it's got all the other benefits of wax. It's a little pricey, but I use it on all the cast iron tools in my workshop and one can lasts me a couple years.
@@charlesenfield2192 Im gonna get some of that T-9 and try it out - Travis
Came here to say this. WD40 is trash for rust prevention, though still useful elsewhere.
T-9 is amazing. I applied it to my bandsaw table about 3 years ago (nothing since) and haven't seen any rust at all.
Thanks for the good advice. I'm been gathering knowledge from CZcams for sometime now. It's getting harder to find because there is so much b.s. l like your channel because you prove what you say. And your not begging for me to like or scribe. I never heard you even ask. As always you have good advice. Thanks
Thank you for your kind words. Travis and I believe that our job is to convince folks to subscribe. If we have to beg, we're not doing our jobs very well.
I'd imagine using rust inhibitors would be pretty effective too. It works incredibly well even in low concentrations, so I'd think mixing it with the wax or oil would help a fair amount. Wiping it on the rarely used tools would probably be fairly good as well, though it likely comes off pretty quickly through use if not contained in a wax or oil. Still, any time you're wiping or rubbing a steel to reduce rust a little rust inhibitor would make a massive difference.
Just a minor clarification: mineral oil is not to be confused as “natural” in the organic sense.
Mineral oil (or mineral spirits) are inexpensive petroleum (paraffinic) based replacements for bio-based oils like turpentine or glycol.
The word "mineral" in "mineral spirits" or "mineral turpentine" is meant to distinguish it from distilled spirits (distilled directly from fermented grains and fruit) or from true turpentine (distilled tree resin).
“White” mineral oil is the most refined (food-grade) version of petroleum oil. WD-40 is a petroleum “distillate” with additives.
I think you look and speak like you're living in Mr. Rogers neighbourhood. I like it. You're making learning really pleasant and enjoyable. Thanks for everything that you are teaching and sharing, and for doing so in such a calm, clear manner. 💝
Mr. Rogers? That's a new one, and I'll take it. You're most welcome.
3:36 - Yes. Do this on a regular basis and your machine tables will gleam with that dull sheen that speaks of years of good maintenance, which is a good way to rate a woodshop.
Nick, I'm so very glad to discover you were over here (Scott Markwood let the cat outta the bag). And the hammer and pup are there as well; only Drew and his guitar are missing (though your intro music helps fill that bit). And Scott prolly has already seen this vid but I'm going to direct his attention to it because in a number of his vids last year, he's disclosed some (in some cases severe) rust problems.
I'm very grateful for your contributions to the community.
Oops! Just read some of the comments and see Scott has already mentioned his troubles and thanked you for the tips.
Thanks, Sean. Liberty is now 15 years old -- she was in her teenage months when I did the Shopsmith vids. I'm combing the rescue services for another young border collie to learn her good habits.
Thank's for this; I'm restoring an old loom and I'm not keen on it re-rusting after all the effort it took to de-rust it!
Most welcome.
Ah! Glad you’re back! Was missing you after the Sawdust Sessions days.
Thanks for the warm welcome.
Great video! The sawdust thing is so real… definitely gets me. And I just ordered a rust eraser! A couple small things I’ll add.
Consider a gun safe dehumidifier/heater for that tool cabinet. Just raises the temp a smidge to help fight humidity. (I have one in my glue cabinet to keep things from freezing). I also use rustoleum clear on bare metal that I want to stay looking natural, but isn’t a wear surface. Like the shafts of my drill press handles. Finally, when I need to really clean rust off my table saw or band saw, I put a red scotch
Brite pad on an old palm sander, spray the table with WD-40, and go to town. Makes QUICK work of any rust. Then clean it really well and wax or spray with glide coat (I’ve also use Teflon dry lube).
Some good tips there. We use the palm sander/Scotchbrite combo for for all our tables and fences.
@@WorkshopCompanion it’s good stuff! I encourage people to grab an old palm sander at a garage sale or something if they can to dedicate to that task since it’s gonna get messy!
I live on the French Atlantic coast. If I don't protect my tools, they rust extremely fast. From all the mentioned methods, I only use wax but I find the usage of WD40 applicable and will try it.
When I have time I actually galvanize my steel tools with zinc. They get the bluish dull color but it had worked great for me in the past. For places where the steel is getting used, like cutting edges and plane soles, the wax does the job.
Since you live in an extremely humid environment with some salt in the air, you may want to investigate stronger formulas made just for rust prevention. I don't know if they have this in France, but an acquaintance of mine on the North Carolina coast swears by T-9. It leaves a thin film of wax on the tools you spray. Not overly greasy or oily.
4:57 - For the last coupla years I've been using minaral oil / vaseline oil / paraffin oil / baby oil for an increasing number of tasks in the shop. It's my go-to 'fatty-oily-greasy-non-stick schmoo'. I usually buy 'baby oil' in the food shop -- it's cheap, smells of babies (famously the best smell in the world (when not changing diapers)) and it's so safe and harmless we rub it on toddlers. As a curiosity I also have an apothecaries' brown glass bottle labeled 'medicinal paraffin oil' : "take one table spoon to relieve indigestion". It makes my planes slide smoother & prevents rust, I smear a thin layer of it on my cauls, F-clamps & bar-clamps to prevent glue sticking during a glue-up (I keep a natural sponge in a jar sitting in a shallow puddle of the goopy goodness), I dillute it with 'rapeseed-naphta' (a brilliant Swedish product) and use it as a honing fluid kept in a small spray-pump-bottle ... I've also experimented with submerging smaller wooden products in vaseline oil thinned with white spirit for several days. A cross section cut seems to reveal that it penetrates all the way through smaller dimensions. Insects will not go near the stuff, and I have a hunch it will inhibit moisture absorption to a great degree (ref. 'Understanding Wood' by R. Bruce Hoadley). This oil's workshop opposite is 'red spirits' (our name for technical alcohol here in Norway) : It degreases, thins and cleans. But that's for another day :-)
Thanks for sharing.
I've been told and am currently testing kids sidewalk chalk in my tool drawers as a desiccant .
Thanks for a lot of great advice!
I just need to comment on the bit about tool steel being at lower temperature than the ambient temperature. Why would that be? According to thermodynamics it should assume the same exact same temperature as its surroundings, given enough time.
As several other folks have pointed out to me it's an old, old misconception that I now have been abused of. Metal feels cooler because it transfers heat so well. And we're more likely to see condensation on metal than on other surfaces because it doesn't absorb the moisture.
Also works for tools seldom used - Spray'n Cook - forms a durable barrier to oxygen & easily removed when you want to use the tool again.
Interesting -- I'll have to try it.
tool steel is always exactly at room temperature, if given enough time (an hour or two) to acclimate. It only feels colder, because it conducts heat more than other materials (wood for example)
True at steady state, but the tool will lag any air temp change and I imagine that's how it condenses.
@@ChaosRules57 it will only condense on the tool if you bring it from somewhere cold into a warm & relatively humid place.
@@davadoff or if the temperature of the room increases. Say, you don't heat your shop overnight and come in in the morning and turn on the heat. Air temp rises faster than any steel in the room.
@@ChaosRules57 if you mean blow warm air on a cold tool then yeah, you’d probably see some condensation.
If you just put the heating on, heating the room up slowly, I don’t know if you’d really get any in practice.
Great tips! Wire wheel also is great. It doesn't remove any if the bare metal, just the flaky rust.
Im in south carolina with basically open air workshop. I either oil or paste wax my planes, chisels, and saws each time i use them.
I can imagine. We have visited North Carolina many times to fly our Wright aircraft replicas, and our tools seem to rust the minute we open the trailer doors.
Packages of desiccant works pretty well to prevent rust
Good tip.
Those rust erasers are the bee's knees! Ha ha, but seriously, though. They are great
I heard WD-40 was a military find of fish oil found in San Diego when looking for something completely different. But it is also called water disbursement 40.
I have been using camphor and paste wax for years good tips, although I no longer use paste wax, the new ceramic wax hybrids are way better at both keeping humidity off and allowing the metal to slide. {My planes and saw/router tables} have never been smoother.
Have heard some very good things about the hydrophobic properties of ceramic wax, but I can't help think that applying silicone dioxide and/or Teflon to your tool surfaces risks interfering with finishes, especially water based finishes. I stopped used sandpaper treated with stearate for just this reason. Glad you mentioned them, though -- they're something craftsmen should consider in humid environments.
@@WorkshopCompanion Maybe that could happen, I don't know enough about water finishes, but most of the time I don't think cross contamination is going to be enough of a problem to interfere, I don't know how much would rub off but given the low coefficient of friction produced , probably not very much. As I live in Florida humidity is a constant worry and may be worth the trade off.
"00" Brillo works wonders for rust removal. Ive found it works better than the Scotch pads. "00" Brillo will remove rust from chrome without scratching the chrome.
First view!!! Love your videos, keep up the good work
Thanks for the kind words.
I've taken to waxing my pliers and screwdrivers. An occasional oiling did not seem to help much. I'm using Gold Label Hide Food. It's got a little lanolin in it to make it easier to apply. Seems to be working so far.
For those viewers unfamiliar with this product, it's a treatment for leather to keep it supple, made from lanolin and beeswax. I can see how that might be very effective at preventing rust.
Would boxes and tool chests made from camphor wood be effective at inhibiting rust?
Great question. Worth making a small tool chest and doing the experiment.
I've been discovering your videos and this is another good one. But, although I'm not a scientist, at 2:44 you say "Tool steel remains about 2 degrees Fahrenheit below the ambient room temperature", this is incorrect. All the materials in that drawer; steel, iron, wood, aluminum, brass, plastic will be the same temperature.
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You could also make tools from the non-rusting self-healing metal that came from the alien spacecraft found near Roswell, New Mexico.
Different point of view regarding sawdust. My grandfather saw a shop with many tools covered in sawdust ... and there was no rust. Sawdust is hygroscopic, meaning it pulls moisture out of the air ... but that doesn't mean it releases the moisture onto metal tools. It holds the moisture.
True. But if it's resting on a tool, then it's holding moisture in contact with a metal surface. And if this prevents rust, why haven't we evolved the practice of sprinkling our tools with sawdust when we put them away in a chest? After all, we've had 4500 years of ironmongery to figure this out. Your premise would make a very interesting scientific test/investigation. I would love to have an excuse not to sweep up my sawdust.
How often do you use paste wax or how long is it good for before you have to do it again? Also with wd 40/mineral oil how often would you do those?
The durability of paste wax depends on how often you use the surface to which it's applied and what you use it for. Apply it to a hand plane, and it will last months, maybe years, on every surface except the sole. Even then, it may last months if you rarely used the plane. I can't speak to the current formulation of WD-40; I haven't used it. I have been impressed with T-9.
@@WorkshopCompanion I'm looking at getting a table saw and don't want it to rust. I just wasn't sure how often I should wax it. I just want to take care of my tools. By the way, I found your channel and thank you for everything.
What do I do if my shop is on my back porch because my garage is too small? 😃
I'm getting back into Woodworking and I just had to clean off all of my stuff because I can't keep it protected
The only permanent solution I can think of is to frame-in the back porch -- create some walls to protect your tools from the weather.
Have you tried using Bees Wax on any of your cast iron machines? It's more work to apply compared to paste wax, but seems to offer greater protection from rust for a longer duration.
I agree that beeswax is a very effective rust preventative. The paste wax I use is partly beeswax. But the coating chemists I interviewed for my "Finishing" book advised me that paraffin offers the best moisture barrier. It's the only material commonly found in a woodworking shop (as paste wax) that is 100% impermeable. I make my own paste wax from beeswax, microcrystalline wax, paraffin, and carnauba with a turpentine carrier. The carnauba greatly increases the coating durability.
Sounds like you've developed a superior product.... time to sell it on Amazon and fund the expansion your CZcams channel. :))
@@Richard-dh8ny We have investigated the possibility of selling "Nixwax" and several other products, and may do so in the future. In the meantime, we'd rather just share the info: czcams.com/video/6DdNMrRn_jk/video.html .
would "U-Beaut Traditional Wax" work or is it for another purpose?
Unfamilar with the brand, but any paste wax will do.
@@WorkshopCompanion thank you
In a full time workshop a lot these issue's just don't happen. The tool's are used everyday and that's the best rust prevention.
Machine beds often develop a patina that is a mixture of tannin based oxidation, grey in colour and a thin film of rust that actually prevents further oxidation.
Other than that we use candle wax to lubricate jointer beds and hand planes and that's about it apart from all those little packets of silicone they put in package's.
I put them in my tool chest and any storage draws. It works.
or just keep the tools in a place where the steel temperature never gets below the dew point. does not have to be hot just a few degrees warmer.
Put some oil on them?
I use the silica bags Can be found for free in covid test and other products ect chuck em in a draw or cupboard
What zhe heck is a “camper zablet”?
Tool steel being 2 degrees colder than surroundings is not accurate. Metal feels cold to the touch as it's just a better conductor of heat compared to natural materials. It will be the same temperature as its surroundings otherwise you could make a passive refrigerator by just having a lump of steel in it. This would be similar to a perpetual motion machine. The heat energy must go somewhere. Otherwise great advice.
Wouldn't "feeling colder to the touch" encourage deposition from vapour?
@@wiseoldfool surface energy, easier heat transfer, topography would be considerations. But that wasn't the point of my statement. feeling cold to the touch isn't the same as being measurably colder.
Tell me again how steel and be at a lower temperature than the ambient! IF this is true we could get free power.
Good point. After several similar comments, I checked the science on this and found this is an old, old misconception. Now let me get back to building my perpetual motion machine...
Wd40 runs to the ground
Dehumidifier cheap are you kidding me I got one for my basement it cost me $450 and it cost another $100 a month to run what is cheap about that?
Where do you live, Atlantis?
@@ChaosRules57 Cape Cod Mass 3/4 of the year the humidity is above 85%
They sure are expensive here in SW Florida too.
@@lindam.9282 I have pretty nasty humidity out here in Cape cod. But it's nothing like Southern florida. I moved there in 1989 after hurricane Andrew when I was 17 years old. The first day down in Miami was hotter in October than the entire summer was here in Connecticut where I grew up. I was unexperienced and they threw me on a roof stripping it. I got heat exhaustion almost immediately. So brutal
@@jeffreywolf5235 You got that right! the humidity is unbearable here this a.m. It started out at 90% and is slowly going down to about 80% according the weather man, but what does he know? LOL I'm in my 70's and have lived here for 22 yrs and I still can't handle the humidity and the 90% temps day in and day out. I can't move but if I could, I don't have a clue where I'd move to. LOL
Aha ha ha. Very zoom!
DO NOT USE WD40 ON YOUR METAL TOOLS, unless you want them to rust, use 3 in 1.
Depends, close analog to WD40 is mineral oil and kerosene, it's water displacement and little bit of oil, great for inside machines where you can't reach.
@@foggynight ....depends?.. Question: Do you know what oral sex with an 80 year old woman tastes like?
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Ans.: Depends
I just keep all of my tools oiled and waxed.
WD40 will evaporate and will let metal rust short-term only.
You just can't BUY education to this standard!
Kind of you to say.
Put your planes on their side 🤪
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