STOP RUST! - Rust Prevention in the Workshop
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- čas přidán 21. 07. 2024
- This week we look at oxidation and rust prevention in the workshop.
Keeping our tools from getting rusted, especially in unheated workshops, is an ongoing challenge and in this video, I show anti-rust solutions, workshop heaters, ways of controlling moisture, all to help reduce rusty tools.
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Workshop Hacks Part 6: • Quick Workshop Hacks P...
Workshop Hacks: Part 5: • Quick Workshop Hacks P...
Workshop Hacks: Part 4: • 5 Quick Workshop Hacks...
Workshop Hacks: Part 3: • 5 Workshop Hacks: Part...
Workshop Hacks Part 2: • 5 Quick Workshop Life ...
WORKSHOP Hacks Part 1: • 5 Quick WORKSHOP Hacks...
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I throw a large or a couple of small silica packs that comes in different things you buy into all of my tool drawers.
If you're looking for a desiccant the synthetic kitty litter works as good as bicarb type product. Put it in the container you've just shown us and when the small blue crystals turn pink simply put it in the oven (or in a sunny spot) and it will dry out, crystals turn blue again, ready to use again
I love your idea to use an untreated metal surface to test the air in an area. I am going to do this!
A half a stick of sidewalk chalk in a tool drawer will do the trick, for chiesles ,screwdrivers, sockets ,etc.
Good video on how I can keep things dry and warm in August in Arizona!
I got a small dehumidifier for the garage which really helps control the moisture.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
Would an actual dehumidifier work? I'll be insulating my garage and turning it into a shop and one of my goals is to keep all my tools there so they're all organized in one place. Right now it's kinda a mess as they're all over the house. I want to try to keep my garage above freezing so it will be heated to some extent.
Nice video very informative. I also would like to comment on the watch you're wearing in the video, who is the maker it's really nice. It's a must have to add to my collection.
The absolute best rust preventative I have found out in my Pacific Northwest (rust capital of the world) metal pole building for tools is Sta-Bil Rust Stopper. It absolutely stops rust on any surface for at least a year, usually longer. It’s amazing stuff. I’ve tried motor oil numerous times and it just doesn’t last. I use the Sta-Bil product on my Enco milling machine, Clausing lathe, a horizontal band saw etc. These machines would usually start getting surface rust on them in 2 months in the winter. I saw this product on the Fireball Tool channel. He did a year long test leaving metal coupons out in the weather for a year after applying various products. Sta-Bil Rust Stopper won hands down. The closest thing to it in rust stopping power was Min-Wax.
Really good and practical ideas!
Great job again Sir 👍
My shop is 48x48 so heating it would be expensive unless I just heat it a few degrees warmer than the outside temperature. What can I do for a shop of that size? Build a room and keep my tools in there? I saw that a camshaft and crankshaft that I have are very rusty. My roll up doors have been open all winter so I closed them. Moist air must have been blowing in.
Big help tips many thanks
What about, oil based, wipe on polyurethane? For cast iron tops on tools (table saw, planer, jointer etc)
Clean it well and apply one thin coat and let dry.
I put a USB cup heater in my tool cabinet, which is sealed with foam. With about 5W draw, it keeps the cabinet warm enough, and gives you a nice rush of warm air when you open the cabinet in the morning x)
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
Colin what do you think about paste waxing to prevent rust?
Awesome information I really like the pods for drawers going to be buying those. I use Boeshied in the paste and then follow up with a furniture paste wax.
Boeshield is the best!
For hand tools that I'm not using on daily basis , I spray wd40 , remove the excess and store it in nylon /plastic bag so air almost cannot come in or out. This keep my tools without rust. when I want to use it , just wipe off the oil use it and then store again. I don't know if covering with oil big tools like drill press or miter saw will help to prevent tools from rust especially in the winter
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
Camphor tablets placed in a small bag with a pin hole will allow the tablets to slowly dissolve and protect steel in an enclosed space. It works the same as the Cortec or Zerust capsules. And they smell nice as well. No idea if camphor is better or worse than the Cortec/Zerust. It's only a solution for tool boxes and other enclosed areas.
With the ever changing climate, in my part of the world, we are getting wild extremes even in winter... very low below freezing temperatures followed by a rapid warm up. The warm moist air moves over the tools that are still 'frozen' and everything is wet. So instead of taking advantage of warmer temperatures to play in the workshop, I try to keep it closed so the shop stays 'frozen' until the temperature falls back to seasonal normal. Of course not much can be done in spring time other than heating the shop - maybe one day.
Hmm, moisture normally falls out of the air onto cold surfaces, say you have a (old days) VCR in your car and you bring it indoors, it needs to warm up before you can turn it on safely, the dew point, which if I'm getting what you say, is the opposite?
Kevs Build , you‘re right ! Metal is a good heat conductor, so it cools down quicker than the environment. As a consequence the air directly on the metal surface gets quicker cool than the air around and its moisture condenses on the metal surface...
The air contains moisture suspended within it. The amount of water able to be contained in a body of air will depend on its temperature (hotter air holds more). When air cools down the water held in suspension reaches a point where it can lo longer be held and will precipitate out (the Dew Point) this moisture will fall down onto any surface! If an object is warmer than the ambient air it will heat the air around it and cause a pocket of warmer air. This can cause the precipitating moisture to evaporate again, keeping the surface dry(er).
You can see this clearly in a bathroom when you have had a shower (saturated warm air) and your mirror (cooler) condensing the water vapour out ...... Warming the mirror (with warm water) will help stop the condensation!
Agreed. You need oxygen and water together with the iron to cause rust, that's why a coating of oil or wax works as it excludes these. Warm air is generally moister than cold air (look at dew point diagrams) - that's why you get those static shocks in very cold weather (no water in the air to ground you to earth), why your food dries out in the 'fridge, or indeed why you get condensation on things (spectacles or VCR) if they are colder than the surrounding air. Any rust prevention techniques should aim to exclude oxygen (air) or water from the iron, or keep the tool (iron) slightly warmer than the surrounding air. Wax or oil coating is the easiest way to achieve the former, and local heating easiest for the latter. Desiccants as suggested in the video can help (by excluding water) but are usually expensive and impractical needing constant replacement. Many people who store old cars for example simply put a light bulb on under the vehicle as it raises its temperature slightly, just enough to prevent a lot of rust.
As a big 2nd amendment fan I use Birchwood Casey Barricade for my metal. It is available in spray or wipes.
Great tips
On cast iron surfaces- table saw, jointer, band saw, planer, I cut1/4" masonite (1/8 works too) to proper size and lay it on the cast iron. I also apply paste wax to the masonite as well as the cast iron. That may be more than necessary. So far it's worked well. I started doing this when I thought covering the tools with machine covers would work and found bad rust spots where a mouse went scurried across the cast iron, peeing as went, leaving bad rust spots. For the jointer, I use rare earth magnets to keep the masonite tight against the jointer's fence.
Is there any reason you use masonite in particular over any other material?
@@221Dw Typically, 1/4 inch masonite is less expensive than plywood.
I live in North Carolina and I tried to put my block plane inside an old sock with a little bit of gear oil to see if that works and its been over 6 months and there's not a single bit of rust on it and I barely use it
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
TKS
If you're storing long term spray with clear lacquer, it will just scrape off easily.
Wax or other products on the surface.
Often times a fan keeping the air moving will prevent condensation.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
Good stuff Colin. I coat all my cast iron surfaces and hand tools with Johnson's paste wax and it prevents any and all rust.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching! Johnson's Was seems to be a popular product.
My pleasure. It works great. Is easily available at most big box stores, and is darn near bulletproof. Cheap too! Love your how-to videos.
I use Johnsons or Minwax paste wax. Both are easily found and are silicone free.
Same.
I've been using Johnsons on all my metal surfaces for years and it's never failed me.
Thanks I’ve been looking for a solution. Ordered some
You're welcome, Alan! Thanks for watching.
The reason your car has due on it in the morning is because it got COLDER than the ambient air during the night. The (cold) temperature of the car is below the due-point and moisture in the air will (loose heat) and condense on it. Now how did the car (or blade of grass) get colder than the ambient air? The night sky can be -40 degrees. So the car is radiating energy to the night sky and becomes cold, On an overcast night (clouds blocking the radiative transfer) you will generally not get condensation.
I think most of us non-heated shop people battle rust all the time. I find, clean the surface and spray on dollar store furniture wax polish works well. I also use it on my band saw blades.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
Most of those solutions are for areas where you deal mostly with cold air but down here it's only practical to run a heater in your shop about 3 weeks out of the year. You would probably be much better off with a condensing air conditioner or dehumidifier. Unfortunately, these options are a little more pricey than heaters but still cheaper than replacing your tools...
Yes, some solution may differ depending on where you live. Thanks for watching!
I applied Nu Finish car paint polymer to a jointer in early `70s and no rust so far. Cast iron or modular iron construction. All my planes get the same. Oil works , but messy.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
the old 25w incandescent light bulbs were good for protecting welding rods.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
Wouldn’t a thin coating of vegetable oil prevent rust? More healthy for skin and environment. I have started using olive oil as an all rounder in the house.
Im hoping to build a small cabinet for my hand tools, I think the driZair will work well in it
It should. Thanks for watching!
I put kitty litter in a sock and throw 'em in random places. Not sure if it works but I figure it's better than nothing. And Johnson paste wax. It's like 6.59 at home Depot - 10 military discount.
More often than not the tools we use end up getting rusted because of poor maintenance and clean up. When ever you use a tool and put it away without cleaning off any sawdust and dirt you gave moisture a place to collect. I've found that if you give your tables and other large metal surfaces an oil coat, let them sit under radiant heat for a short period of time and then give it a proper wipe down, You give the oil time to heat up and make its way into any small scratches, cracks and crevices where 99% of rust starts off. For smaller tools I give them an oil coat and let them sit in the sun for an hour or two before wiping them down and putting them away.
Another thing I do is for tools that should not be oiled because of the need to grip and grab (example: would you oil the brake pads on a bike?) For items like this you could use either silica packs saved and gathered from new packages coming from office supplies, clothing or shoe stores (Personally I hit up local shoe shops and ask, shoe stores end up with dozens of these in the trash every day). The other is for storage containers and "small parts" drawers, I sprinkle corn, potato or rice starch in each compartment to absorb the moisture and keep them dry.
Whether it's woodworking, making clothes, cooking, jewelry making, hair, makeup or any other "arts and crafts", the first thing all of the kids learn is that you ALWAYS give yourself fifteen to thirty minutes at the end of your working time to clean up and replace everything you've used. Even if you plan on continuing something the next day, never leave tools and supplies sitting around to collect dust, dirt and moisture. if the kids I care for left anything out or put it away without cleaning it I do clean it myself but the kids learn fast not to let that happen because any item I have to care for at the end of the day will be locked away and will not be used for a week and any woodworker knows that that one tool you don't have is the one you're going to need! LOL
Thanks for the tips and thanks for watching!
Why no links to products shown ?
FWIW, my workshop is my 2-car garage. I heat it with ceiling mounted radiant heaters. I keep the whole area heated to 12C (~53F). We use the garage to park our cars, so in the winter the cars can bring in a LOT of snow and ice, so the room can get quite humid. However, by heating it to 12C (chosen more for the comfort of climbing into a heated car) I've never experienced any rusting issues with my tools.
Disclosure: My company makes these radaint heating units.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
dry PTFE spray sometimes is also good solution
I use paste wax on my table saw. It protects from rust, and makes a nice slippery surface without any oily residue.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
Great video Old Carpenters tip. was to put a couple of "Mothballs" in your tool box. Tools didn't go rusty .... Not sure you can get "Mothballs" anymore.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
You can also coat your metal tools in a water based poly. It will prevent rust better than most anything out there. Just wipe on a thin layer then wipe off.
homegrownbuddy hi, in water based, is water not with salt what is making rust? Have you a link for such pruduct? :-) would be beeswax not also good? ;-)
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
where is that link for the round stick on thingies?
This is a similar product : www.amazon.com/dp/B003T1H7IA/?ref=idea_lv_dp_vv_d
Thanks for watching.
For hand tools i .e planes and chisels I use camellia oil. It's not cheap but goes a long way and you can just go straight to work. Machine beds I use machine and blade wax (which is probably car wax). Put it on let it dry and buff it off. Has the added benefit of making the wood glide on the table.
Thanks for the tips and thanks for watching!
I live on the gulf coast of south Texas humidity is ridiculous. All my metal tools and firearms seem to take great pleasure in rusting. Actually had a can of WD 40 rust enough along the seam I was worried it would rupture. Eight years of research have determined the following ... in an enclosed space like a gun safe or closed cabinet get a mini dehumidifier ($35 on Amazon) plug it in and empty the collection tray about once a week. I easily keep the humidity below 45% in an enclosed area when it is 85% outside.
Also handle firearms or tools that are cleaned and stored with cotton gloves during cleaning and before storage otherwise every finger print will show as a rust spot in a few months. On tools that get used a lot I keep a plastic tub (butter tub with a snap on lid) with a few rags soaked in balistol and quick wipe down after use stops rust. I do not use motor oil because sawdust sticks to it and gums stuff up. I like Johnson’s paste wax on the table saw top and other large flat surfaces but the balistol rag in a tub is by far the most effective and easiest solution.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
You could use also gun socks, they are soaked in silicone oil ;-)
WaschyNumber1 yep Gun socks help but after the first 2-3 cleanings the cotton gloves have a nice “residual” oil film. I have been using the same cotton gloves for a few years now and I can put a light coat of oil on every tool by just handling it while wearing the gloves.
Those pods are about $100 and last up to a year. I think it be wiser to use a dehumidifier and maybe some DampRid
Here's what I've learned...when I get a new tool, wipe off the factory oil/grease with naphtha. I then wipe the tool down with Boeshield T-9. This dry lubricant is amazing. It inhibits rust and doesn't hold sawdust like conventional oil/grease.
I finally stumbled onto this exact technique a few months ago. Like you said, trick is to do this first thing when you bring a new tool home before anything has had a chance to plant the seeds of corrosion
I know a guy that cleans his table saw (& other cast iron machine tables) well; and a couple of times a year goes over them with a good thorough coat of liquid automotive car wax, and buffs it out.... the stuff in the orange squeeze bottles, I forget the name. Says he's done it for eons, and has no rust in sight... at least on his machine tables. Edit: Just spoke with him, says it's 'Nu Finish' wax he uses, but thinks most any liquid wax product ought to do well.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
Paste wax works just fine, too.
I ran a paper cutter (made in Germany) for years. We applied Johnson paste wax once a week in a air conditioning environment. The bed of the cutter is bare high carbon steel . As chemical technology improved through the years we changed to a silicon base product called “slide”. We would apply a very thin coat with a rag and it would last for close to a month! It makes the surface really slick also so a large stack of paper would slide like you had a air-bed system on the cutter. 👍
I’ve always heard car wax on a table saw was frowned upon as some of the chemicals in car wax could leach into wood while cutting on the table saw. I use good ole’ Johnson & Johnson paste wax...probably a bit more elbow grease required to buff out, but I’ve never found any stains or excess wax on my work pieces.
Ricks comment on car wax makes sense... as many car wax/polish products contain silicone/s. Silicones can & do raise havoc with many finishing materials.
Some good ideas there. I like to use car wax on the cast tables of my tools and that works but it's labor intensive!!!
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
Yep it happens in the am.
Oil is my go to.
Good tips there, mate 👍
Some I've never heard of.
Oh look, wood watch...😂
Thanks for watching, Bill!
I have to buckets half filled with Salt in my Shop in Opponent edges. You would not believe how effective it is..... After 4-5 month they are more than half filled with Water.
DIY-Chris is salt and water not what makes rust on tools? And does it not go in the wet air the salt?
Interesting ... what kind of salt?
*Buy a dehumidifier and route the waste line outside to the sewer or plants.*
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
Is that all you've needed to use to combat rust in the shop? I just installed a small dehumidifier. Hopefully it's enough to do the trick.
look into using Penetrol
A tip from Paul Sellers is to take a small tomato or tuna fish can any one about 2 inches deep. Then cut strips
of rags about 2 1/2 inches wide and roll them up tightly. When the roll is about a little bigger diameter than the can
stuff it in very tightly. If you can get them in without using some sort of tool to push them in. add more cloth. You
want the cloth to stick out about a 1/2 inch. Then saturate the cloth with any light machine oil. 3 in One is reccomended
When finished using your tools or they are dragging swipe the can over the tool to give it an ultra thin coat of oil.
Here is his video czcams.com/video/npKo1y2e8RI/video.html
That's an interesting idea. Thanks for the share.
Oily rags. Yea great idea
That watch works very well for product placement lololol
I only wish it was I was getting paid for it :) Thanks for watching.
Cat litter in a sock. Works a treat.
Subscribed and following your excellent content. Good video but I think you're missing the true cause with the idea that metal staying warmer than the surroundings causes rust. I've lived on the very humid Texas Gulf Coast most of my life and just moved back there from a few years in a dry desert climate so rust is something I have to start combating again. I've learned that warm moist air coming into contact with metal cooler than the surroundings causes moisture in the air to condense on the metal. (Condensation or dew does not "fall" onto surfaces. It condenses out of the air.) It's only cold on the Gulf Coast when a cold front pushes through and after a few days the warm Gulf air pushes back in everything that's still cold causes moisture to condense on it. During one of these warming periods my brother once said, "Shhhh- - - listen to your tools rust!" My 2nd Amendment safe is equipped with a Goldenrod as you described. The air and contents stay just little warmer than the surrounding temperature thus preventing condensation and the elevated temperature does lower the relative humidity inside the safe. The enclosed safe also causes temperature changes to occur slowly.
An insulated room or building the temperature changes much more slowly than in a garage or shop that changes temperature as fast as the outdoor temperature. An uninsulated building will allow condensation on steel, as I experienced in an airplane hangar where both temperature changes and damp air influx were unabated.
I'm also an amateur astronomer and have battled dew condensing on the optics of my telescopes. We use low wattage heaters to keep the glass in scopes just a hair warmer than the surroundings and it keeps the optics dry all night. I'm a firm believer that it's far more important to introduce a little warmth than to try to use a chemical to resolve the problem. I do use VCI paper in toolboxes to protect lathe tools, drill bits and other steel vulnerable to rust and it works well. You can't keep humidity out but you can do things to keep it from condensing on steel and iron. I'll probably install a small removeable light bulb under the cast iron top of my table saw to keep it warmer than the surroundings. I'll start with a 15 watt bulb. It won't take much.
Live in the desert.
I use giant silica packets
SciGuy lol
Good information, but the science at the beginning of the video is wrong. The tools are the same temperature as the ambient temperature. Metal might feel colder or warmer, but that’s because it’s conductive - it transfers heat to and from your hand quickly.
Hotter air can hold more moisture. As the air cools, the air super-saturates and the steam condenses into liquid. Water droplets precipitate on cold, sub-liquids temp. surfaces. The metal cools quickly because it’s conductive and stays cold throughout the night. No tool in your shed is large enough to act as a heat sink.
I love beeswax and mineral spirits wipe it rustable surfaces and buff it off
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching!
All you needed to say Colin was, “Rust never sleeps.”
lol ... Thanks for watching!
Wow way too complicated and expensive. For surfaces that will come in contact with wood that you will want to finish later, wax with a good car wax. For other tools, like pliers where you will want some lubrication in the joints, use 3-in-1 oil, a light coat will do. For everything else or anything that will come in contact with food, use mineral oil. If you need extra-strength rust protection, mix up a jug of 2 parts mineral oil, 2 parts mineral sprits, 1 part lanolin. A light coat of that will leave behind a thin film when the mineral spirits evaporate out, and will block rust in marine environments. (And is basically the same ingredients found in a certain very expensive product sold commercially) I live in florida and primarily do metal work, and a coat of mineral oil keeps all my tools rust free even in the very high humidity we have here.
Sounds like Fluid film
I just let everything rust and then buy all new tools next year. It's so much easier.
Wish I could afford that. I'd love some new tools.
I like your style
LMAO ... You won't be the first guy I know to do that. Thanks for watching.
Really? Wow, some people have money to burn, I was just kidding.
*LMFAO*
C.L.P. or RemOil
Devour Eats ,they are more cheaper products out ther, e.g. engine oil or for long term beeswax.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching.
Sub woofer 10inch box video live ....
None would work on my ex. Just sayin'.
I suggest you learn some physics before you start teaching us.