How to Prevent Rust and Maintenance Hand Tools
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- čas přidán 19. 09. 2018
- Preventing rust in a Woodworking shop can be a difficult and ongoing task. I wanted to look at how I prevent rust and maintain the hand tools in my woodworking shop!
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My garage shop in coastal Florida can be pretty brutal. Several years back I made several oil rag cans (like Paul Sellers makes) and I have them in various places around my shop. When I am done with a tool, I wipe it down before putting it away. This has dramatically reduced rush issues.
I do exactly the same. My shop is a unconditioned shop in South Carolina. Works for me.
Same procedure for me I live in the Houston TX area. The oil can rags and plastic tubs with balistol soaked rags are used to wipe everything every time it gets used.
How about oiling planes do you take them apart after every use or do you clean only exterior surfaces?
Hamit Ali
I wipe down only the exterior after each use but about every couple of months I disassemble and inspect/sharpen if needed. I might wipe it down with the oily rags is I handle it because finger prints will accelerate rust problems. Use a good oil like balistol and it seems to last for quite a while. I do use a little paste wax on saw blades that don’t get used very often. Use fine steel wool to remove small rust spots, it works way better than sand paper.
Rusty Gun thank you for your advices 👍🏼
Many thanks for this video - finally learnt that the strange tool I found in neighbour's junk pile is a file card! Now file cleaning is solved
I’m here for my wood working class and I think you did a great job
This is perfect! I’m in a little garage in my apartments (in PNW so it’s humid) and I’ve seen rust pop up within days sometimes. All of this you covered is stuff that has been nagging at me in the back of my mind for weeks! Thanks for sharing all of this knowledge!
My pleasure. good luck on hitting the rust out there!
GOOD subject James and boy did I have a HORRIBLE SURPRISE when son and I plasterboarded and insilated my barn workshop. I packed all my tools in one of the horse stable boxes(and this is summer in Normandy, and it rains,) and 3 weeks later when painting finished and moving back in, I had rust on all my new chisels and parts on my planes...Not a drop of rain got to them either, just the humidity...I'm actually taking notes! Thanks again...cheers...rr
No fun. for long storage I often treat with a thicker substance that blocks all air form getting to the metal, but even then you never know!
I have been using WD40 specialist dry PTFE spray for my tools and never looked back. (especially easy to use with rasps and files) A big plus is that it dries very quick and is pretty much not sticky when dry.
that is a great idea!
I love this channel! (I Found a gold mine on YT) Very informative. Thanks for covering the details most people don't mention. I'm going to binge watch your channel now. Thanks ☺️
Thanks. I'll try to keep them coming. If there's ever something you have a question about just let me know.
I’ve started coating some tools with a clear coat of spray paint. Works well on like steel squares, calipers, and the sides of planes that don’t see friction.
I know a few people that do that in high rust areas. I might have to try that on some.
One of the most helpful vids I’ve seen in a long time. Thanks.
thanks Ray. that means a lot!
Thanks James love your channel.
Wow. Surprising have many of the same tools you featured in this video. Thanks for the info. Cheers
I use WD40 Dry Lube on my rasps. I just brush off the filings and spritz it after each use as a quick and easy preventative. I love the smell of 3 in One oil in the morning. It smells like... tools.
Thanks -- I'm behind in tool maintenance & need some tips. I have some bowling alley wax on the way.
Good tips on tool maintenance. Oil and wax does save tools, not just woodworking tools but any steel tools.
so true! preach it brother!
I normally use marine 6-56 corrosion spray or wd40 or pb blaster. With the adjustable wrench’s if you soak them into a bin of pb blaster that should work really well.
Great advice. Thank you, especially with maintaining our files and rasps! On to watch your paste wax video....
thanks Alexander!
I know this video is a year old, so I don’t know if you’ll see this comment.
Regarding applying oil to your rasp, I’d recommend using something like an old toothbrush to distribute to oil.
I maintain my bare steel barbell this way and the knurling on it is pretty aggressive so it’ll tear pretty much any towel to pieces. Brush off any rust/oxidation build up, and apply oil with my toothbrush.
It’s a real pain, but worth the effort.
For the rasp use a toothbrush to spread the oil 😊
Great content! Just wanted to throw in a little comment about a product we used at woodcraft, which is a life saver for me living close to the ocean, Bc As you can imagine the rust battle near salt water is a nightmare.
There is a product line called T-9, developed for the aircraft industry, and nothing I’ve found holds comes close to preventing rust for long durations of time, even right next to the ocean.
They have a lubricant that doesn’t have silicone so it won’t mess up finishes on wood, I use it in my cast iron surfaces and it prevents rust for years. If you follow the direction it binds to the metal creating a rust free barrier that is insanely slick, I’m pretty sure it’s what Clark griswold used on his sled.
I then wondered how it would work on hand tools, and it’s just as wonderful, super slick, and prevents me from battling rust every month. Highly recommended.
They also make a product called rust free that removes rust with ease, I brought back a table saw that was completely rusted over to like new condition fairly easy.
It smells horrible but I think that how you know it’s good… haha
All in all oil and wax work just fine for most, but if your close to salt water, t-9 has been a extraordinary time saver!
Beat of all they just started selling it at my local Napa… for half the price of woodcraft. Can’t beat it!
I use a stiff bristled brush (mine is a pig bristle shoe brush trimmed to about half its original bristle length) to work the oil into my files and rasps and on my saw teeth.
Living in a very damp climate, like Ireland, I find that I can get significant rust in a week or two. I made the mistake of putting away my forstner bits after using them without cleaning off the sawdust. Within 2 weeks they had rusted quite severely with some pitting on a couple of them. Now, after each use, I brush off the sawdust and use a paintbrush to apply a light mineral oil. This works very well and has eliminated any trace of rust.
WOW that is a serious rust problem. Great Idea with the brush!
Awesome video, thanks.
The only difference I do from yours is that I don't use 3-in-1 oil. I find it turns into weasel snot after a while, and builds up in those places where you can't really wipe it out of properly. I much prefer either no oil, just straight up paste wax, or if I use oil I use mineral oil, or the occasional WD40 on moving parts. Some great pointers on regular maintenance though, I'm definitely not as good with that as I should be!
NIce. I use to use mental oil quite a bit. but have never had much problem with 3n1. so many great ways to do it. Thanks!
Switch & Lever, "weasel snot?!?" That REALLY made me laugh man! Never heard that term associated with 3 & 1 oil before, but NOW I'm gonna steal it from you + use! Reminds me of my hitch in Uncle Sam's Navy many, MANY years ago? Even though I was an aircrew-type, I used to enjoy hanging out with the aviation-metal smiths in the "air-frames dept." The very thick, THICK rubber compound-cement they often used on aircraft skin repairs had a quite comical nick name: They exclusively called it "ELEPHANT SNOT!" But funny thing; regardless what dept. an individual was assigned to, EVERYONE knew EXACTLY what "Elephant-Snot" was!
The only difference i do from yours is that i dont use 3-in1 oil. I find it turns into weasel snot after a while an builds up in those places where you can't really wipe it out of proferly. I much prefer either no oil just straight oil or the corosional w4d4 on moving parts. Some great pointers on regular maintinances though in difenenty not as good with that as i should b
@Nunya Business 3-IN-ONE® Motor Oil is a non-detergent oil, and does not contain silicone. Per manufacture
Wd40 is a de-greaser, not a lubricant.
thank you . great info . funny story if you will i was a machinist from 70s to 80s so oil down all non painted parts every day . sadly that was a long time ago lol . now i have wood working tools in my garage and i forgot about rust prevention . yup rust tops so back to the oil . we tend to forget things with time . i have a drill press vice i used a teflon spray on took it apart and sprayed it back in the 70s mid no rust yet shame i can not remember what it was . suggestion on the rasps if you dont mind use an old paint brush ( short the bristles ) with oil in it .
I love the brush idea. thanks!
Good Info .... I need to be more consistent about rust prevention!
the struggle is real!
Hello James! Thanks for the advice. Take care of yourself ... :)
thanks. my pleasure!
I really like that mini oil can! I've been searching around for one but can't bring myself to paying more than $10 for them on ebay.
Good tips, James!
thanks!
As a starting woodworker I was wondering about this! Thanks for the useful information!
Also another question, my personal workplace is 20km away from me, since I live in a small house in the city. Therefor I am considering making a mini workbench (Like Adrian Preda) so that I can still do some stuff at home. Would you recommend hard or soft wood for the workbench? I am leaning towards the softer option in case of chiselling. I think it would absorb the blows better than hardwood?
Different people like different benches. My preferred hardness is about a soft maple but that's a personal preference. My first bench was made out of a Douglas fir which was fairly soft but in the end most any wood will do you fine
On my wooden framed tools I will use wax on a shoe polish brush to get into the grain as well as those nooks and crannies. I did have a brush for oil many years ago but found I didn't use it enough so disposed of it but I can see from this video it might help if you need to oil rasps. Planes, chisels and saws I use a rag-in-a-can (tin). I rarely sand my tools because I found the same, let the patina build up as a natural rust inhibitor. Thanks, James.
right on! thanks Gary!
I'm in New Hampshire and my shop is in the basement and in the summer we have quite a few days of heavy humidity.I have a dehumidifier that runs pretty heavy during the summer.I also use Paul sellers Rag in the can for a number of years I too am always on the outlook also run my air cleaner a lot also Have been lucky no big problems fingers crossed
got to love the dehumidifier!
Loven the Tin Man's oiler you mentioned on your pod cast.
it is such a fun little toy!
Sandflex sanding blocks come in handy for removing rust.
What wax do you use James? And what oil do you prefer to prevent rust? Camilia? Thanks hope you and your family had a great holiday season!
I use Beeswax mostly and I like linseed oil. here is the video where I make my paste waxes. czcams.com/video/WiMw71UBj3M/video.html
Thanks for the video! Two questions: what oil is in that can, and would Johnson's Paste Wax work well with it?
I generally use 3in1 tool oil. But any light tool oil will work fine. And yes Johnson pacewax will work perfectly for that.
I'm an electrician in Seattle. The high parking fees force me to park a long ways from the jobsite/ride crowded buses and carrying a backpack full of tools long distances is no fun so I often leave my tool backpack at the jobsite in a locked container. The problem is the jobsite is exposed to outside air and its cool and 80+% humidity most of the time. This causes my tools to rust quickly and I need to start oiling and waxing them.
Rust caused by sweat in my DFW located garage shop is the biggest rust challenge. lol
D Scott, me too man! I live in central-coastal Florida, + ALWAYS sweat a LOT anyways? Ya, I've witnessed "dripping-sweat" falling onto metal surfaces, and then go to rust, rust, RUST in a matter of an hour or two.
Great video and thank you! I do have a question though. I have used a clear coat spray on my tools and it seems to work very well to repel rust. How do you feel about that? Thanks.
I am not a fan of it as I find it often chips off and I dont like the film build up. bot for bugger power tools with large surfaces that can be a great option.
Jame- do you think it is worth having a dehumidifier in a basement (unheated ) shop? Between jobs I rub all the power tools down with steel wool and oil . Tool beds get waxed once or twice a year.
if humidity is a problem then yes that would be a great idea!
When I clean my sockets I put them on an impact and go over with 3000 grit sand paper then use compound polish and a light wax and haven’t rusted in a long time, their not slippery, and I have really good hydrophobic wax and they’re 30 years old and look brand new
For cleaning brass I recommend using bar keepers friend or a similar product.
interesting. I will have to give it a try!
nice video! where can I get that round oil container thanks
Sorry. I'm not sure I know what you mean by round oil container.
Good advice all around.
A small spray bottle with camelia or jojoba oil, kerosene-thinned 3-in-1 oil, or even thinned vegetable oil works great for spritzing files and rasps -- and no silicone, either!
that is a great idea
Does one need to 'thin' veggie oil to use it on files and rasps?
Everyone on that Paul Sellers' rag in a can job, 3-in-1 is expensive, it's primary component is mineral oil. Food grade mineral oil is cheap, prevents rust and moisturizes your (almost certainly) beat up/neglected hands. Helps wounds and hang nails heal faster too.
Very true. I just purchased my second 3n1 bottle in 20 some years of woodworking so I don't worry too much about price on that.
This is old but here's a tip u may not have known, put chalk powder on the files, the same one used in Olympics and stuff, that will prevent stuff from sticking so they won't get clogged anymore but idk if this prevents rust
Nice wooden plane, beautiful. Btw you finally won me over. Subscribing lol. I know ive been critical for a video or two being longwinded and repetitive, but youre pretty awesome actually , and kinda funny, not just funny looking lol😉🤣😂. Take care dude thanks
Rust is a problem in my shop.Its not heated nor conditioned.I wipe all of my tools after every use.What bothers me most is that I also take the planes apart and wipe down interior surfaces too.Do I really have to do that in these conditions?
Paul Sellers has a great way to use 3 in 1 oil rag in a can. Check it out. Very easy to oil tools up with it.
yup. I did that for years too. it is a great method. Just not my favorite now.
A lady in UK, where air is humid, keeps her tools in plastic tool boxes. Claims it works. I get mine from Home Depot, 7 to 20 dollars depending on size. I still use camilla oil and plane socks.
The boule of wax paste you are using, how much oil and wax did you use to create it? Not only asking for proportion but approximate volume or weight.
Here's a whole video on it. m.czcams.com/video/4k9mJtvqP94/video.html
Steel isn't porous. But the duller the surface is, the more undulations it has on a microscopic level that can collect moisture and escape being oiled/waxed. A polished surface collects rust less than a matte/dull one.
You can also use a drying oil (like BLO, or something foodsafe like flax or walnut oil for kitchen tools). This will harden over time into rust-preventative, semi-protective coating. For bonus protection on some tools, it's doable to cook the oil in like how one seasons a cast iron pan. It will cause it to dry harder/slicker.
Tallow was also used on blades (see Roy Underhill's little grease pot video).
One additional measure you can use is making tool chests and sticking your tools in drawers, with either dessicants or... I remember there's some sorts of wood that were used for keeping humidity low in containers, such as for travelling on ships or through humid regions, but I don't remember what types.
Right on. The paste wax I make has eather linseed oil or Blo depending on the use for just that reason.
The woods used in traditional Japanese carpentry to absorb moisture is poplar from my understanding.
They use it to make wardrobes and tool cabinets as it absorbs the moisture, preventing must for clothes and rust for tools.
I like autosol metal polish followed by a hard wax, I learnt this from david charlesworth.
I've used Boshield T-9 for many years. I live in the north east... Cold and wet all winter... 1 application lasts up to a year... In the fall I put a liberal application on my cast iron table tops, all my planes... The mid winter thaw it usually the most brutal time for tools... they get coated with moisture from condensation. Not a drop of rust as long as I do my part....
it is good stuff. I have a few friends that use it liberally!
Great video James. Question, do you wax your chisels as you are using them to help them cut?
not normally. they do not have a huge surface contact to create friction.
I spray all my tools down with wd-40. Been doing it for 25 years and it works perfectly. I use WD-40 on my welding tables all my fasteners and most of my hand tools. Works great because it's hydrophobic and that's what it was designed for. To keep moisture off! 💯
What grit sandpaper do you use to remove the rust?
whatever is at hand. normally something between 220 and 400
What a beautiful bevel gauge. Where did you find that beauty?
I got that one at a ReTool a few years ago.
Rusty files, are the bane of my outdoor workshop …. Add to that high humidity and wet weather … rust and I are old friends.
I am in the middle of doing a rust inhibitor test. it will be interesting to see who wins.
Any tips on preventing rust from mechanic hand tools?
I use frog lube, it's some kind of silicon Teflon w/mild abrasive. it work well on firearms. so I tried it of tools. seems to hold up well. I also have used boil linseed, mineral spirits, beeswax. works well too.
I will have to look it up. would be fun to try.
Guess Who? They found out frog lube is just coconut oil primarily. Fell off in the gun community after that. Gums up in the cold too.
This video helps to learn education
Is that an ECE or Ulmia frame saw next to the Roubo saw? I've always wondered how those worked, do you like it?
ECE. Looking forward to doing a video with that soon.
@@WoodByWright awesome! Do you think they're better, worse, or just different than back saws?
just different. they were common in continental Europe when back saws became common in the UK and USA.
How do you make your homemade wax, or what type of wax is best?
Here's a video we're going to detail on that. I also have the recipes I use on there. www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=m.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3D4k9mJtvqP94&ved=2ahUKEwj2xtTK0tr3AhVHkIkEHXeVD1gQtwJ6BAgEEAI&usg=AOvVaw2SpZqMxn6Mil1BBMDyuVHQ
i have loads of "U-Beaut Traditional Wax" will this work for this? it dosnt saying anythign about metal on there website?
yes that will work. it is just a simple paste wax with wax, oil and a thinner.
Thanks
my pleasure
I thought that once I had a nice shop and everything was inside my rust problems were over but I was wrong. I need to build a room to keep things in so I can heat it and not my entire shop.
How about using a small paintbrush to get the oil on and spread across the rasps?
A lot of people really like that idea. I might try playing around with it.
Great info. Never thought to wax my saws. I’ve had troubles with my crosscut binding/catching on the down stroke. Hopefully this will cure that problem. Thanks for the tips 👍
It will be night and day once you try it
you are in for a treat. it feels so good!
From where can i buy this tools (oil, oil dispenser, wax)?
I have a video showing how to make it. You basically just melt wax and oil together most any type of wax and most any type of oil work well but I use beeswax and linseed oil.
What grit sandpaper do you use for light rust? Also, can you use veggie oil such as olive oil to keep rust at bay?
I generally use 400+ and yes most any oil will do.
@@WoodByWright Thank you. I appreciate the reply.
Bear in mind that fats eventually go rancid. Your kit will most likely stink to high heaven after a while if you’re using vegetable oils as lubricants.
@@michaelcambareri101 Even if you wipe it off as he suggests?
Wood By Wright. Forgive me being late to the show. can you please link me to the wax you use to prevent rust. Many thanks
Www.Woodbywroght.com/shop I use the hard wax that I sell, but I have a video on how to make it.
What kind of oil is this? I'm not too experienced with this stuff, but is it possible to use something like linseed oil for this? Is rubbing your hands over them with your natural oils also good?
No because sweat is alkaline and will make things rust. If you ever see museum curators handling 1000 of years old metal items it’s always with glove. Japanese used camellia oil on swords and tools since the BC years. It works well
@@MrSongwriter2 Interesting.
@@MrSongwriter2 Okay so the oils are good, but the water we sweat makes it rust. Gotcha.
@@faramund9865 yes oil will stop tools rusting but the sweat and grease from fingers causes rust. I used to teach a kid guitar with particular sweaty hands. He would destroy the strings really quick as they would just rust. Others not so much but as a guitarist you are taught you should always wipe down your strings after playing. Gun owners will wipe guns after using/handling them as they need wiping with an oily rag to stop them rusting. There’s numerous things people use on tools from things like 3 in 1 oil, wd40, gt85, paste wax, microcrystalline wax, camellia oil etc. Do a bit of research on what will work best for your situation.for instance in my U.K garage it’s really damp come autumn/winter and anything steel will rust. So for example the metal work vice which doesn’t get used that much as it’s just too bloody cold to work in an unheated damp garage just gets rubbed with grease on a rag and gets cleaned up next spring. Just because I know it’s prone to rust. Tools get wiped with whatever I’m experimenting with at the moment. I’d did the garden tools in a wood shed with Camellia oil and they didn’t rust at all. The woodwork tools I’m going to try microcrystalline wax as they are in a toolbox so less exposed but will still rust. It really depends on location and exposure to humidity/damp so what works for U.K may be ridiculously overkill for Arizona in a heated workshop for example where the humidity is bone dry. I’m also interested in trying the scottoiler rust prevention for motorbikes as I have some already for the bike. But that I’ll try on the cast iron stuff that rusts just by looking at it. It’s an economics as much as anything. But it also depends on the tool and the quality of the tool. A cheap file I’ll just spray with wd40. My Dads vintage brass backed dovetail saw I’m going with the museum grade wax. A big steel old handsaw that’s already rusted I may choose something that neutralises and leaves a protective coat
Consider you sack planes a good idea to avoid rust oiling the hand planes?(my biggest problem is with hand planes)
Storing planes in cloth it extremely difficult to strop rust. You would want to use moisture absorbers.
@@WoodByWright ut has sense for me . Ill se if make a little wood box fo4 every hand plane, wax or oil inside and put some moisture absorber(the little balls of shoes)
Thank you
How do you like that Stanley low angle jack?
I Like it. it is not the best on the market, but for the price there is none better. usually when people are looking for a LAJP on a budget it is the one I recommend.
That’s about what I expected. I have the low angle block plane and it’s not that great.
A dedicated paintbrush to dab oil/wax on irregular surfaces works well, sort of a dab-on version of the rag-in-a-can of uncle Paul Sellers. Keep in a tall jar.
that is a great idea!
Hi, home made paste wax, is there video of how to make it?
yes. I would send it to you but I am out and about right now. it is linked in the description of this video though.
What oil do you use?
Usually a light machine oil like 3n1.
James, Do you ever have a problem with 3 in 1 transfering to your projects and messing up the finish?
I Had A Bad Day Paul Sellers was asked this very question, his emphatic reply was that it didn't.
never the slightest problem at all.
That's good to hear.
Oil and wax, what...are you a super-model? LOL. Great tips. I guess I need to step up my rust prevention because my shop is in a more than 100 year old rail-road pump cart shed and every metal surface gets surface rust within a week of use. I guess I need to clean and oil/wax after every use.
Does this work for table-saw and other cast iron tool bed/bedways too? I'm not sure about oil and wax on my wood lathe bedways, in my newbie thinking that would let the tail stock slide when "locked down". Any suggestions?
LOL yup sounds like you got your work cut out for you. I did use to use it on all cast iron surfaces. even the slides of the lathe. no problem with sliding!
Wood By Wright great, thanks for the reply. I should buy stock in a steel-wool company with the current amount of rust scrubbing I do.
I'll have to try this paste wax over oil method. Currently I use gun oil after every use, but it isn't preventing the rust as well as I hoped. Maybe the addition of wax it will stretch out the oxidation time frame. I don't get into the shop as regularly as I'd like and everything has rust on it when I get the chance to get out there.
5:00 - Oil and wax
What oil are you using
3n1 or raw linseed oil depending upon the use
Let's suppose my case, I live like 2sq close from beach, what should I do?
You can do the same thing just do it more often. I know a few people who have to do it every other week or so.
Doesn't the oil make your hands and everything else oily after you wipe it off? Like when you go to use the tool the next time, how do you deal with the oily tools while you're trying to work?
the thin coat applied is almost imperceptible. if does not affect the work. when I am done I usually wash my hands.
Unprotected steel and iron in Arkansas will disappear in a fairly short time, especially the post war stuff. I just found a couple small files my son had borrowed about a year ago, little 6" fine files. They are no longer files, I might be able to take the temper out and reshape them into cutters for my mini-router planes. Maybe. I'm experimenting with different cutter shapes but I don't think there's enough good steel left. I routinely clean my files and rasps after each use, they sleep in a serpentine oily canvas role.
Sounds like a fun time! LOL
What grit of sand paper do you use for this?
usually around 400+
@@WoodByWright Thanks!
Great video. Can you also use wd-40 instead of oil?
I would use their specialist rust prevention rather then just WD40. It is ok but it is not great.
@@WoodByWright Awesome, Thanks
What oil is that ? Transmission ? Motor ?
I generally use three in one oil for most of my tools. Though in some cases with my wax I have linseed oil.
I have been a carpenter for 25 years and I hate you cause your work shop is Awesome and you even clean them down it better than mine 😉. I’ve i only rub down and oil up a few things the rest I clean before I use bad habit I know.
But yeh very nice work shop indeed can fix or make anything in there really in total comfort .
thanks! that means a lot. I some times go a bit over the top.
I just subscribed, but please teach me how to make that homemade paste wax please. I hate rust with all my heart. Thanks in advance.
Thanks! I have a couple videos on that topic if you want to see them.
@@WoodByWright I definitely will! No, thanks to you for sharing all these tips.
is that wax similar to candle's wax?
Candle wax is usually paraffin wax. It will work very well. Beeswax is just a bit softer.
@@WoodByWright thanks for the explanation
What model is the sweetheart?
not sure what you mean. if you are referring to the Low angle jack in the video it is the new Stanley line. not the best on the market, but great for the price!
Wood By Wright Yes that is the plane I was referring to,thank you
Just as bad for me I keep all my metal planes in a heated tool cupboard along with my chisels. Remember to shut the door at night. Just a vivarium Matt will do the job.
Saws a coat of light machine oil and beeswax. Files and rasps wd40 .
And my rusty butt baby oil lol keep up the good work Jim.
heated cabinet! that is a sweet idea!
Tell me about it.. My shed is all tin. The same stuff that fences are made of ( Colour Bond). It's a constant battle all year to clean and wipe my tools. Perth, Australia. If I win the lottery, I'll get it insulated and temp control. until then (for ever), clean and oil :(
the struggle is real!
Yep, I feel your pain! I'm on Bribie Island and my tools cop a hammering from rust. I do oil and cleanup my tools but it still sets in. Try CRC 3.36 seems to work better than most especially on my band saw table.
Have two wardrobes in your bedroom . one for tools .works great
Ballistol...on a rag in a can...wipe down at the end of the use...rust prevention at it's best...
Same here best stuff I've found and love the way it smells
I love Ballistol.
I wonder how frog lube would work on that
Bee wax?
yup. my preferred wax to make my paste wax out of.
But how about your metal brush???
dude... you keep saying oil & wax but what are their names? WHAT oil is it?
I use my homemade oil and wax. Here's the video on making the paste wax. czcams.com/video/4k9mJtvqP94/video.html
And here's the video I'm making the boiled linseed oil czcams.com/video/VtETzSg4LcE/video.html
I'm a big fan of ballistol living in Georgia with horrible humidity and no climate controlled shop works wonders
I know a lot of people that swear by the stuff!
for my hammers and axes i just spray them in with wd40 once in a time
that is some good stuff
"Funny saying here"