Very handy video, I changed the thermostat and water pump on my 2014 tonight. I got lucky and didn't have to remove the motor mount. Also I removed the passengers headlight which for me made getting my hands and tools to operate alot better.
Awesome video man, I came to see what I was in for before I do the water pump on my dad's Focus, but I actually watched the whole thing because you showed the whole job start to finish and gave some tips as well. Thanks, hopefully this goes smoothly!
Great video. I changed the pump on my 2013 Focus. I had enough space to get the pulley off and the pump out without lowering the motor. It was a fairly straightforward job and this video gave me the confidence to get stuck into it. Thanks.
I used this video to change the belt on my 2013 Ford Transit Connect with the 2.0 Duratec engine... all very similar if not identical. I had a problem getting the serpentine belt tensioner tool and 13mm socket on the tensioner bolt. Instead of altering the tool that I had borrowed from a friend, I bought another identical tensioner bar at Harbor Freight, then I used a screwdriver to remove the rubber grip so I could cut about 2 inches off the handle, this gave me more room to move the bar as the end was hitting a portion of the frame on setup and a hose or two toward the radiator. I still struggled to get the belt on, and finally realized by just getting about 15 more degrees of travel wity the bar, the belt went on easily. So if it won't go on, you just haven't turned the 13mm bolt enough. I went to 3 auto parts stores trying to get a 3/8" drive 13mm 12-point individual socket (just the one, not a set) hard to find the 12 point version in a short socket. The reason having one may help is because it will give you a few more degrees to get the tensioner bar all the way back for more travel when detensioning... there is not a lot of room from above. I did not try lifting the vehicle to try from below as I already had the motor mount off and the motor suspended from below like in the video.
Dude great video! This helped me with my daughter’s 2016 focus. Thanks for sharing. And screw the naysayers and negative comments. At least you had the balls to share.
That thin coolant line is very fragile I bent it that same way you did and it crack and broke I replaced it also the cheap water pump off eBay that was $30 only lasted no more than 3,000 miles the bearings went out made a grind noise than one day it was leaking like crazy I highly recommend going with the ome parts from ford that ranges from 60 to 90 buck if you order offline or go to the dealership
I just changed my thermostat and was hoping to leave the car running to test the result. Came back to a smoking car. Guess I need to change the water pump now. Hoping to fix the overheating problem.
i dont have over heating problems or any leaks but my 2014 focus does make a grinding noise when idling. A mechanic friend of mine said it might be pump. im at 70,000 miles. Would you recommend replacing it?
I've 2016 2.0L duratech engine .Can bad pump going out cause water and oil to mix ? I don't think so . Doesn't it take cracked engine or blown gaskets / seals to do that ?
How many miles will a water pump last? Have 150,000 miles on a 2015 focus...Seems if you replace the water pump replace the tensioner and serpentine belt, coolant, thermostat maybe battery and alternator as well. Have not had anything replaced so far.. Just spark plugs and coil packs..@ 100k miles..to be on safe side didnt need it... They say a focus is not a good car dont see that its bad at all...Dont really want to worry about repairing it. If i get another 150k will be happy
Some last 300k miles, some last 20k miles. At 150k, I would probably do a belt, spark plugs, oil change [if needed] and a transmission flush/filter. Tensioner only if it was bad.
Would have been a great how-to video... if you had mentioned torque specifications for the bolts, nuts, and stud that you removed and reinstalled. "Not hard enough to strip it out" just doesn't cut it. EDIT: Aside from that, it was fine. Thanks for uploading it.
There's not a single dealership mechanic that would torque those. If you're that concerned, get a universal fastener torque chart and set them to 15% less than their maximum value. If you can't do these by hand you probably shouldn't be working on your own vehicle.
@@KorysRides Yeah, sorry, my hand isn't calibrated finely enough to be able to discern the difference between 30 ft. lbs. and 35. Which is kind of a moot point, what with you (apparently being of the "there's three levels of torque - it won't fall out before it becomes someone else's problem, tight enough, and whoops hey Charlotte call the customer and tell her she needs to pay to have a bolt hole drilled and rethreaded!" school of thought) not having bothered to mention the correct torque specifications. By the way, responding to a request for information that you forgot to include (or simply did not know) with something along the lines of "if you can't do it, you probably shouldn't be doing it" was old when the first lazy caveman did it, and it hasn't gotten a second childhood in all the many thousands of years since then. I only ever had dealings with one Ford dealership mechanic, and he had a raging cocaine addiction, so was probably not exactly the best example by which to base my assumptions. He did know how to get 850 horsepower and well over 1,000 ft. lbs. of torque out of those 6.0-liter turbo diesels that half the universe seemed to think were junk, though. Oh, and the first time I walked into his "after hours shop," I saw him working on someone's F-250... with a torque wrench, lol. Anyway, I already had the motor mount bolts/nut torque; I was just hoping for the stud specification. *OR* to know whether it's like installing a set of ARP head studs, "hand-tight only." No worries! I'll ask a professional. Er... A professional mechanic, I mean, not a professional CZcams video uploader. . . .
At least the water pump on the 2.0L is easy to do unlike the 1.0L eco boost the water pump is behind the timing cover an it has a wet timing belt to that engine is worst design
227 socket? WTF are you smoking dude? LOL MM or Imperial please, no weird decimal or other measuring systems when giving out tool sizes. Or, speak more clearly. It is very much not clear and sounds like you said .227 socket, and if you did, cute, but unhelpful. Not that having the socket size is any sort of necessity, but if you are going to be bothered to say it and put it in your video at least make it intelligible enough to be a certainty.
T-27. Clean your ears out, dummy. It's a Torx headed fastener. 6 points. Point to point distance is 0.207" or 5.10mm. It isn't metric or imperial, it has its own measurement system. You can get Torx heads on metric and standard fasteners, as well as thread pitches/styles for wood and plastic.
Very handy video, I changed the thermostat and water pump on my 2014 tonight. I got lucky and didn't have to remove the motor mount. Also I removed the passengers headlight which for me made getting my hands and tools to operate alot better.
Just curious - why didn’t you remove the engine mount? Must’ve been a tight squeeze, no?
@Tom3294. once you remove the passenger headlight which is 2 easy screws you can put your whole hand right where you need to be.
Great video ! Being a mechanic. I still find so many good video of tricks and other ways that make the job so much easy on youtube !
Awesome video man, I came to see what I was in for before I do the water pump on my dad's Focus, but I actually watched the whole thing because you showed the whole job start to finish and gave some tips as well. Thanks, hopefully this goes smoothly!
Great video. I changed the pump on my 2013 Focus. I had enough space to get the pulley off and the pump out without lowering the motor. It was a fairly straightforward job and this video gave me the confidence to get stuck into it. Thanks.
Excellent video and work, thanks for the contribution with the change of the pump of my ford Focus
You are very very.. easy to understund…. And I dont speack english very well
Thanks
Great video. I changed the pump on my 2013 Focus. I had enough space to get the pulley off without lowering the motor. The pum
I used this video to change the belt on my 2013 Ford Transit Connect with the 2.0 Duratec engine... all very similar if not identical. I had a problem getting the serpentine belt tensioner tool and 13mm socket on the tensioner bolt. Instead of altering the tool that I had borrowed from a friend, I bought another identical tensioner bar at Harbor Freight, then I used a screwdriver to remove the rubber grip so I could cut about 2 inches off the handle, this gave me more room to move the bar as the end was hitting a portion of the frame on setup and a hose or two toward the radiator. I still struggled to get the belt on, and finally realized by just getting about 15 more degrees of travel wity the bar, the belt went on easily. So if it won't go on, you just haven't turned the 13mm bolt enough. I went to 3 auto parts stores trying to get a 3/8" drive 13mm 12-point individual socket (just the one, not a set) hard to find the 12 point version in a short socket. The reason having one may help is because it will give you a few more degrees to get the tensioner bar all the way back for more travel when detensioning... there is not a lot of room from above. I did not try lifting the vehicle to try from below as I already had the motor mount off and the motor suspended from below like in the video.
Dude great video! This helped me with my daughter’s 2016 focus. Thanks for sharing. And screw the naysayers and negative comments. At least you had the balls to share.
Pump the coolant level down from radiator or hose. Fluid transfer hand pump, way easier
Good video your very persistent fella Im changing one on my mazda pickup alot less things in my way
Very helpful, thank you 💪
Thanks man you just saved me $700 AU dollars.
Don't take off the belt first loose the bolts
That thin coolant line is very fragile I bent it that same way you did and it crack and broke I replaced it also the cheap water pump off eBay that was $30 only lasted no more than 3,000 miles the bearings went out made a grind noise than one day it was leaking like crazy I highly recommend going with the ome parts from ford that ranges from 60 to 90 buck if you order offline or go to the dealership
I have 2016 I used the green coolant also hope it’s going to be ok
So whats the trick into getting the motor mount studs to stay in? Mine never stay in, btw a 8mm will get them in
Can you raise the motor a bit with the jack to get more room to pull out the water pump? Or would that damage the engine?
A little is fine. To much will pull wires and exhaust apart.
I just changed my thermostat and was hoping to leave the car running to test the result. Came back to a smoking car. Guess I need to change the water pump now. Hoping to fix the overheating problem.
make sure to get all the old gasket off engine before replacing water pump ! are there will be a round 2 with the water pump and you !
It's a o ring seal so no prob
👍👍👍
nice tutorial
Good video
i dont have over heating problems or any leaks but my 2014 focus does make a grinding noise when idling. A mechanic friend of mine said it might be pump. im at 70,000 miles. Would you recommend replacing it?
A grinding noise could be a million different things. You need to be more specific. Guessing with parts is a good way to throw lots of money away.
was the radiator cold?
Job nicely done and descriptive.
Willing to buy escape titanium 2.0 which use same water pump.
Just trying to be affiliated of some repairs ahead.
Escape requires way more work. It's a 4 hour job at a dealership. Whole different project.
@@KorysRides Whats different when doing this on an Escape?
Mine is at 85k miles I’ve never had a problem with the water pump, when does it need to be changed ?
When it leaks or the bearings go out
Was there any noise with your car when the pump was not working properly?
No. Replaced because it was leaking. Bearings were ok, seals were bad
Yes
Sounds rough cuz it's not working properly and the belts squeel and squeek
I've 2016 2.0L duratech engine .Can bad pump going out cause water and oil to mix ? I don't think so . Doesn't it take cracked engine or blown gaskets / seals to do that ?
You have way more serious problems than a water pump
@@KorysRides I'd like a straight simple answer - can a bad pump cause water and oil to mix ? Simple yes or no please
@@frankmontez6853 No. the water pump doesn't handle any oil. You likely have a head gasket problem if you have oil mixed with coolant.
How many miles will a water pump last? Have 150,000 miles on a 2015 focus...Seems if you replace the water pump replace the tensioner and serpentine belt, coolant, thermostat maybe battery and alternator as well. Have not had anything replaced so far.. Just spark plugs and coil packs..@ 100k miles..to be on safe side didnt need it... They say a focus is not a good car dont see that its bad at all...Dont really want to worry about repairing it. If i get another 150k will be happy
Some last 300k miles, some last 20k miles. At 150k, I would probably do a belt, spark plugs, oil change [if needed] and a transmission flush/filter. Tensioner only if it was bad.
I just seen at last oil change my wifes 2.0 in her escape has timing cover leak in the same spot. Not cool
Mine is extreamely hard to pull out
19:30 haha you gave me a good laugh
Would have been a great how-to video... if you had mentioned torque specifications for the bolts, nuts, and stud that you removed and reinstalled. "Not hard enough to strip it out" just doesn't cut it. EDIT: Aside from that, it was fine. Thanks for uploading it.
There's not a single dealership mechanic that would torque those. If you're that concerned, get a universal fastener torque chart and set them to 15% less than their maximum value. If you can't do these by hand you probably shouldn't be working on your own vehicle.
@@KorysRides Yeah, sorry, my hand isn't calibrated finely enough to be able to discern the difference between 30 ft. lbs. and 35. Which is kind of a moot point, what with you (apparently being of the "there's three levels of torque - it won't fall out before it becomes someone else's problem, tight enough, and whoops hey Charlotte call the customer and tell her she needs to pay to have a bolt hole drilled and rethreaded!" school of thought) not having bothered to mention the correct torque specifications. By the way, responding to a request for information that you forgot to include (or simply did not know) with something along the lines of "if you can't do it, you probably shouldn't be doing it" was old when the first lazy caveman did it, and it hasn't gotten a second childhood in all the many thousands of years since then.
I only ever had dealings with one Ford dealership mechanic, and he had a raging cocaine addiction, so was probably not exactly the best example by which to base my assumptions. He did know how to get 850 horsepower and well over 1,000 ft. lbs. of torque out of those 6.0-liter turbo diesels that half the universe seemed to think were junk, though. Oh, and the first time I walked into his "after hours shop," I saw him working on someone's F-250... with a torque wrench, lol.
Anyway, I already had the motor mount bolts/nut torque; I was just hoping for the stud specification. *OR* to know whether it's like installing a set of ARP head studs, "hand-tight only." No worries! I'll ask a professional. Er... A professional mechanic, I mean, not a professional CZcams video uploader. . . .
At least the water pump on the 2.0L is easy to do unlike the 1.0L eco boost the water pump is behind the timing cover an it has a wet timing belt to that engine is worst design
On my 1.6 escape, you have to drop the engine about 6 inches to remove the water pump
227 socket? WTF are you smoking dude? LOL MM or Imperial please, no weird decimal or other measuring systems when giving out tool sizes. Or, speak more clearly. It is very much not clear and sounds like you said .227 socket, and if you did, cute, but unhelpful. Not that having the socket size is any sort of necessity, but if you are going to be bothered to say it and put it in your video at least make it intelligible enough to be a certainty.
T-27. Clean your ears out, dummy. It's a Torx headed fastener. 6 points. Point to point distance is 0.207" or 5.10mm. It isn't metric or imperial, it has its own measurement system. You can get Torx heads on metric and standard fasteners, as well as thread pitches/styles for wood and plastic.