1990 Suzuki Katana 750 Carburetor Assembly/Disassembly, Bench Sync & Float Height
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- čas přidán 26. 06. 2020
- Alternative Carburetor video: vimeo.com/67356693
Float Height: vimeo.com/68097145
Correction 1:
I forgot to mention Emulsion Tube ovaling. This happens in extremely high mileage bikes where the emulsion tube will have an ovaled shape instead of a circular one. If this is the case they must be replaced.
Just a heads up for people confused about jet size being different in carb #3. This is only for the 750cc katana. the 600cc 90-97 has all the same jets. The 88-89 katana has two seperate jets in two carbs.
Man thank u so much for doing these break downs for this bike you have help me so much
Got some carb clean in my eyes a few time yesterday, and lemme tell ya your not wrong I really regret it😂😂
Extremely helpful video, very thoughtfully made and thorough. Thanks!
I appreciate the comment. In this video I wish I mentioned emulsion tube ovaling causing overly rich conditions in heavily used bikes and the fuel hoses I have in this video aren’t ideal as thinner motorcycle fuel lines don’t kink as easily and are able to be routed so much easier.
Good informative video that will save people time and heartache , 2 things I might add ,, when working on any carberator off a Japaese bike , it's worth it to buy a couple of JIS srewdrivers , those screws look like phillipse screws but the JIS drivers have a different leading edge and won't narle you delicate aluminum screwheads and they work on phillipse heads just fine , the second point I've learned is to use ( and this is not a product promotion ,, it's just what works best witout thurning your aluminum green ) is when you use an ultrsonic cleaner on aluminum parts and your not goint to paint or anodize them is to use Simple Green SMP13406 Extreme Aircraft and Precision Cleaner, it's made specigically for aluminum parts , other cleaner will work , but could discolor your oart and is avalible in most places .
I have been inspired to do it myself 1 by 1 thanks brother good video!!!!!
OK HOT TIP for those that are dealing with cruddy mucked up emulsion tubes in that plastic top piece that Kat Mechanic got out with EASE. I had no such luck and had to get creative. you need an M5 x 0.8 allen head bolt to thread into the main jet body and tap tap tap it out very gently so you do not break the plastic bridge piece. AT LEAST 16 mm (or longer like 20 mm, I had 16mm on hand anyway) to give you some space and you may have to use penetrating lube before attempting in the slide channels top AND bottom. Once you get it to move some push it back down and up with fingers (mine were far to big to get in there, so My son did it for me) and we successfully removed them with ZERO damage and saved that expense..........
Forgot to mention those tiny jets he said he does NOT recommend taking out. The reason for this is:
1. They are AIR JETS and NEVER see fuel.
2. If you happen to bugger one up GF LUCK finding replacements. They don't exist. If you MUST, spray carb cleaner thru them and you will see exactly where the fluid goes.
Thanks man!! this helped alot with fixing my GSX750F it's running beautifull again :D
Is there a different carb that I can use I can’t find any that fits mine
Awesome video. Thanks for the help.
Bless you 💙
Good video
nice vid thanks !!!
I'm wondering if anyone has had the same problem I'm dealing with on a 1991 GSX750F that I'm working on for a customer. I've had two very small brass "push in" jets drop out (they were just sitting in their respective float bowls), I'm presuming they come from the open end on the elbow of the pipe incorporated into the nylon float carrier assembly? You can see the point i'm talking about fairly clearly at 12:21 in the video and later. What's got me really puzzled is that two of the carbies don't have a jet in this point at all!? Have they already dropped out and a previous "technician" saw fit to leave them out? THANKS SUZUKI KATANA MECHANIC FOR A REALLY WELL PRESENTED TUTORIAL! :)
Their are no “push in” jets. They should all thread in. It sounds like someone destroyed the threads when taking it apart. You definitely need the jets and it sounds like someone broke it and threw it back together.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Sincerest thanks for your very prompt reply and apologies for not acknowledging it sooner. My first thoughts on opening things up (and I've been stripping Mikuni's etc for 50 years :0) was Someone has just thrown all these bits together and hoped no-one will notice! The owner assures me he has ridden the bike, I'm amazed it would even work. I understand what you mean about stripped threads etc but these little units are quite smooth sided, parallel at one end and slightly tapered at the other which led me to conclude that they must have been a push in fit, as there's nothing to hold them otherwise (or even a reasonable indication that they may have had a thread or "top hat" flange that may have located them. There's also nowhere for them to go if they don't come out of the nylon float carrier!). The really don't look like they belong in there at all. I'm lucky enough to have located another set of carbs that I can pull down and compare to these, I'm sure it's going to be interesting! Many thanks again for your help and excellent video, I'll report back with my findings from the other set of carbs! :} Cheers, Don.
@@rdyam sometimes I talk to people who need additional help with pics through Instagram. If you need anything let me know and I’ll post my Instagram here.
Tengo una katana 600 será lo mismo maestro
Very helpful. I was worried going into it not having disassembled a rack of carbs before. The steps were super easy to follow. Would you be able to share where the choke connects to the carb? I cannot find it for the life of me.
At 1:53 I remove it. I called it the “starter shaft lever”. The cable connects at the top left portion of it and the spring just to the right of it while the rest of the cable seats into the 2nd carb from the left
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Thank you so much!
Do you have a video on removing the carbs from the bike? If so, do you have a link?
czcams.com/video/vRSC20vEUkQ/video.htmlsi=lCir4fdD-ugyccxv
Hey what carb sync tool do you have? Just curious as you said some are pretty bad. Thanks
I don’t use a tool, I just bench sync like in the video.
Another questions. Is the choke cable suppose to go along the carb on the plunger slide /connector through all the the little hooks starting between 1 and 2 and ending before where the cable actually attaches too. I’m having a issue where my plungers do not
Go all the way back in when I turn my choke off. They come all the way out when choke is pulled and will go all the way in if I push them manually. Is this something you wouldn’t stress about and rather just push the plunger on carb 1 causing them all to go back in? Thank you so much
Should my spring on the end of the choke cable be on the metal elbow end or should it be on the actually cable thank you. Could you maybe make a video explaining this?
@@thelegend9299 This video I made shows to to install the carbs onto the bike. czcams.com/video/vRSC20vEUkQ/video.html
However, your problem is not uncommon even if it is assembled right. The tubes the plungers fit in often get stuck. I recommend polishing them a ton.
Great video . Iwe been replacing my needle jet ad jet needle and main jet , but iwe recived 3 105 jets and a 112,5 jet , would that mess up the settings ? , also iwe noticed that when operating the choke lever , all 4 carburators are opening different , 4 is opening first , then 3 and so on , so that when i can see full passage in 4 , 3 has less than 4 , 2 hass less than 3 and 1 less than 2 , is that the right way for them to be moving ore should they open equaly ?
It is possible your jets may work but its impossible to say for certain. I can't remember exactly the numbers I used but even if you imitate my setup, it might not work since tuning is bike specific. I think the jets I used when making this video were too rich but in your bike they might work. The choke should function in almost exact unison with one another. It's possible the bar that grabs the choke parts is slightly bent or is bending when you pull the choke because its not perfectly straight. If their is a slight difference and all the choke parts open smoothly, I'd ignore it since you only really need choke during a cold start and when warming up the bike.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842
Thank you for answering , ill see what the retailer has to say about the 112.5
First of all amazing video I must say.
Can you help me, please? My Katana has been sitting for a year and now after servicing it, cleaning carbs and all it has real hard time running, it has awful idle, bogs down can't get high rpms and literally everything with it is fucked, I took it to a mechanic they cleaned carbs and adjusted it properly but it's the same, they told me to replace plunger rubbers since they are all mushy and they are right and I'm already ordering a carb repair kit with those plungers, but, they also told me that throttle valve plates need to be replaced, I can't see how they need to be replaced, they didn't even look at it they just guessed from the way bike behaves, can it just be fixed by cleaning it properly and adjusting them so the valves close and open how they supposed to?
I really need your advice on this since I can't find those plates separately anywhere and entire carbs cost as much as the bike itself....
It would be very very weird that the butterfly valves need to be replaced. It doesn’t normally brake unless someone broke it while working on it. Sometimes they get “sticky” but you clean them. It sounds like possible air leaks combined with running severely rich. Rebuild the carbs and pay attention to all the jets and needles. Also make sure the slide guides aren’t too excessively worn and the jet below isn’t ovaled. Make sure everything is tuned right in the carb and then focus on fixing the air leak.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Thank you very much for responding, I was thinking the same. I ordered a carb repair kit with plungers(diaphragms) and hopefully that with a better carb cleaning job will fix it. There was an issue with one bolt being stripped probably leading to an air leak as well, they temporarily fixed that when starting the bike to see if everything else worked. Anyways it seems like the carbs need a better rebuilding and cleaning when parts arrive.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Okay so I got carb rebuild kit and we rebuilt the carbs and cleaned it throughout, everything seems to be fine no noticeable air leaks, did carb sync and bike revs nicely but it has trouble holding idle, either idle jumps a bit around or bogs down. 2 mechanics tinkered around but nothing is changing, what can be the issue here?
@@svmei Those are the symptoms of an air leak. Watch my airbox video and how to install intake boots. If you do this correctly it should fix it.
Since carb rebuild I start the bike sounds good idles great but after maybe 2-3 minutes the engine is flooding and won’t start until I let it sit a little. I’m thinking I need to check my float height would you agree? My petcock works good and doesn’t leak as well I don’t believe my tank is airbound. I am running pod filters but they bring more air than stock Airbox so I have reason to believe I’m getting to much fuel. Pilot screws set at 2.5
Check that along with the choke as it could be getting stuck open.
Thanks so much for this video - I'm trying to get a 1992 Katana 600 going after it has been sitting around for 13 years and I knew the carbs would be a mess. I wonder if you could please answer a quick question. At 12:14 you are putting a little rubber piece just over where you installed the pilot jet. I noticed it has a little hole at the top, but does that go all the way through the rubber piece, or is it solid at the bottom? When I took my carb apart, those rubber pieces were mush and so I ordered replacements. Mine look like the one you replaced on your carb, but do not have a hole going through them. Some people have mentioned that their bikes run fine without that rubber piece so I am wondering if me sticking a solid rubber piece in there might affect the pilot jet. By the way, I found the pilot jets impossible to remove with a screwdriver. What really worked well was sticking in the smallest screw extractor I had, tapping it lightly and it bit into the top of the pilot jet, and it then came right out. In case that helps anyone. Didn't seem to damage the pilot jet at all.
While people claim they can run fine without that part, doesn’t mean the engine is actually running correctly. That rubber piece is a factor in fuel air mix and is necessary. Mine does not have a hole that goes all the way through but instead acts like a cap.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Great! Thanks for the quick reply. I'm just about to re-install the carbs, and I'm also taking your advice about pre-installing the airbox to the carbs before installing the both to the bike, and also how to orient the screws on those circular clamps. Your videos are very clear and helpful.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 I also had a question about that, I just cleaned my carbs and wasn't able to clean out my pilot jet. Technically speaking if there is no hole there how is the pilot jet even working if its working at all. Based off of what I know that's like disabling the pilot jet. That being said my katana 600 starts but doesn't idle at all it dies once it runs through all the starter fluid. Also my pilot screw has this brass cap on the hole and I can assume that that screw wasn't messed with since the factory. Should i try to remove the cap and install the new pilot screw or just leave it as is. Thanks in advance. Awesome videos btw, they have been used religiously as a guide for me.
@@thbigshot101 sounds to me like you should drill out the cap and adjust the fuel air mix. Make sure everything is clean and adjusted right. Also don’t damage the jets by cleaning them with something rough.
I forgot to mention, if it’s not obvious already you should try adjusting the idle on the left side of the bike before doing anything.
Carb question for ya so after getting my carb rebuild kit for my 91 I realized it didn’t come with needles (when it showed it did) It’s a pain in the ass to find the needles for it and I don’t wanna order them and wait forever just for them to be wrong, do you think I could just take my 89 set of carbs and throw them on the 91? Would there really be any differences or would it just pretty much be plug and play? (besides the petcock being different and there being a single gas line instead of two) but again appreciate ya and all the help
@@jakobrandolph3126 idk what you have but it shouldn’t be different. The 89 should be the exact same carb. Shouldn’t have just 1 gas line or anything different. My tank is actually from 89. Check parts diagrams on suzukipartshouse.com and you’ll see parts numbers and which things change from year to year. My bike has parts from 89-97 on it right now. Is something wrong with your current needles? Check your emulsion tube for ovaling if your bike has that much ware.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 I got my 89 as a parts bike and was told that everything with it came off of that bike, carbs are a good bit different, the supposed 89 set have a single gas line with a single gas outlet petcock and the 91 set looks identical to yours, ima prolly try the needles from the 89 set they arnt the exact same but are pretty close to it, worst comes to worst I’ll hunt down the exact needles for my carb, luckily I still have the little spacers and the plates that sit on top
@@jakobrandolph3126 that website I mentioned should have them in stock and guaranteed correct fitment. Problem is price and probably a 2 week wait.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 fair enough, thank you for the help again, worst comes to worst I could prolly go threw partzilla
I'm looking to replace my 1989 mikuni bst31ss with a newer bst33ss carb. I found a carb I could buy but it has a I guess electronic choke on it. It looks just like yours but has that extra electronic plug on it. I can't find any info on the Internet about that electronic plug.
I’m not quite sure what part your talking about but I’m thinking it could either be some California specific part or the wrong year carb
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Can I message you somewhere, I don't think I can send links on CZcams comments.
very good video..
I have a question..
I bought a 600f 1996..
and it has the same carburetors,..
bike was storage for 6/7 years..
so I cleaned the carbs,and replaced most of the orings ..
Maybe my question sounds dumb,but...
all for carbs work together at all times..?
why has 2 gas in ..?
I cracked it for first time,yesterday and I see only the 2 left s carburetors air intake opened..🤔
All four must open at the exact same rate and time. Are you saying 2 aren't getting gas and aren't opening?
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 I found the problem following your video..
Thanks.
One of my carbs the 3rd one from the left is not running right an I’m thinking I have trash in it bc I had trash in my fuel filter my exhaust on that carb is not as hot as the other ones. What do you think my problem could be. It sounds like it’s missing on the start but when I get into it it’s clears out
Did you take apart and clean the carbs completely? Also do you have all 4 of those rubber stoppers on the bottom still?
Hi man, nice video!
I have a GSX600F from 1997 with the same carb. I just have cleaned the carbs, but it wont fire again. Seems to not have vacuum on the carbs. I have checked the hoses, but there is already one on the left carb, and one on the gas tank valve. You have got the tank connected to the carb. I have tried this but it seems not to work. Got any tips?
It's hard to say what's going on with this information. If it previously worked before you cleaned the carbs, its possible you damaged or misassembled something. Check if your carbs are getting fuel first, then check if you have spark in your spark plugs, and I also recommend you watch my video on hose routing. I did however make a mistake in the fuel line part where I said to use the thick fuel line but you instead want to use a fuel line that is thin and malleable.
There is a vacuum line connected from the peacock to the carburator. But why are the other 3 carburators not being connected to a vacuum line? On the same in/outlet.
@@Zachie31 their are 5 hoses coming from the carb. 1 goes to the far right carb and the petcock. 2 others attach on top between the carbs. These connect to nothing as they just vent air so fuel can continue flowing. The last 2 sit between 2 carbs at the bottom and connect to your petcock for fuel flow. Your petcock is vacuum operated so you need a vacuum for it to work when in the on position. Your carb is just making the petcock open so you only need 1 vacuum line.
Do you have a link for the repair manual?
I can't remember where I got my book but I have heard great things about Haynes manuals. I think I should also mention that I've found a few mistakes in the book I'm currently using. haynes.com/en-us/suzuki/gsx750f-katana/1989-1996
Muchas gracias tengo una modelo 91. Te hago una pregunta, que significa E-03 E-22 E15,24,39 , E 18....
Those numbers indicate which type of carbs they are.
The little rubber stopper you put in with the pilot jet is there suppose to be one on each carb. Bought a 90 used and took it apart and only had 2 rubber stoppers in them
You will need one for each. I encountered the same problem but I had many many more parts missing when I got my 1990 GSX750F. If you notice the rubber caps on top of the carbs, mine had wire nuts glued on as caps. I can't stress enough how important is is to have the proper parts on instead of a janky fix. I also recommend you use suzukipartshouse.com and check out their diagrams. It also states how many of each part you will need.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 ok thank you i have everythimg else. Bike runs good just missing the 2 caps
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 is there any explanation what the differences in between the carb sets on that page? They have a model K a model J and a model LMNPRST carb sets
@@TheHeadlessHorseman on the bottom of that page it shows where the “ID NO Location” is on each carb that specifies which parts on the carb are used in the table above it. I’ve seen those letters used on other parts but not carbs since those letters refer to other parts.
Where is the vaccum hose at on the 3rd carb? I'm struggling to find it
I think your referring to the vacuum hose that attaches to the petcock. That can actually be connected to 5 different locations and still work technically. The standard location is on carb #4 (sitting on the bike, right side). It attaches to the side of the carb close to the top. The next spot you can connect it to is any of the top plastic parts of the carbs that I have blocked off in the video. It is recommend to connect it to the primary carb you have the different sized jet on and is the unadjustable one during a sync. I believe this is #2 but it’s been a while and might be #3. I definitely mention it in this video though. I would recommend connecting it to the top instead of the side however as other mechanics have recommended it to me. I believe I have a hose routing video on my channel too but I think I state the manufacturer recommend spot instead of what people decided was better later on.
Hey Kat Mechanic. Love your videos, they've been a great help to me.
I'm having a stuttering issue at wide open throttle above 8500 RPM. Total loss of power, bike refuses to rev further. I've tried bumping up the jet size from a 110 to a 116 and the problem still persists.
Any ideas? Thank you for the great videos.
1990 Kat 600. Vance and Hines full exhaust. Otherwise stock.
How do your slide guides look? Do you see any ovaling around where the needle guides into the emulsion tube? Also check how the needle is shimmed and it’s condition.
Going to tear apart the carb today. Got an ultrasonic cleaner and a rebuild kit. I’ll check out the guide and the emulsion tubes. I’ll also move the needle around. (I neglected to do this when I jetted it) fingers crossed, I’ll let you know how it goes.
@@93inmycoffee56 myself and many others have received bad rebuild kits in the past. If you run into some problems this could be it.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 AllBalls rebuild kit seemed great. Slide guides looked ok. Bike was running perfectly for all of 30 minutes. Previous issue was totally gone. However, it started bogging, stalled, wouldn't idle and almost stranded me. Took everything back off when I got home. Carbs looked ok but the sparkplugs were covered with dry black carbon soot. (Plugs were less than 1 year old) Ordered some new plugs, going to slightly lean the mixture (shooting for 2.25 turns.) and I'm going to try again.
@@93inmycoffee56 sounds like your on the right track to me. To add, sometimes the spark from the spark plugs gets weaker in old bikes as the wires that connect to the coils age. This can create unburnt fuel too and look rich. My coil relay mod explains this a bit and solves this issue. That being said, your spark is likely only slightly weaker right now.
I have a 89 model and I am having trouble with the float height. According to the documentation it should be 14,6mm. I've adjusted the floats to this height but the carbs keep overflowing. Even after replacing the float needles. Can you give me advise if i am using the wrong height? Or is something else of. Thanks!
Submerge your floats in water. Check if their are any small holes in your floats. A float could also be getting stuck. Make sure they are free moving
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 OR the needle seats are in poor condition.
Just rebuilt my carbs in a 94 gsx600f. Cylinder 4 is not firing when it warms up neither does 3. Is it starving for fuel? it has spark, i'm using a fuel filter could that be a issue? Starts first time everytime in the morning but still no fire in 4
A fuel filter often causes problem because this bike uses a vacuum operated petcock. That being said it could easily be any number of things cause your fuel air mix to be way off.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 thank removed the fuel filter running better but 4 still acting wierd
These rubber plugs under the main jet that people are asking about, are they year specific? Not seeing them on my 2003 and although I don't have the fsm with me now I don't recall seeing anything like that in the diagrams
I'm not sure if their year specific, but if they changed, it would have been after 1998 and then again in 2006. They are their for a reason however and if they are not in the fuel air mix will be incorrect.
I like to use the parts diagram on suzukipartshouse.com and reference the part number with different years when I'm confused about year to year compatibility.
I am trying to rebuild a set of 96 carbs I bought on ebay to put on my 88 katana 600. Everything went pretty well during disassembly, however I got the one idle set screw (the pointy one with the small flat metal washer, spring and small rubber o ring) loose, however it doesn't thread all the way out to where I can get a grip on it and pull it out like the other 3 does. I got it loose and it turns in till it bottoms out and stops and also turns out till the end of the screw is about 3mm from coming out end of carb housing. I have tried blowing air in various orifices to push it out to no luck. I tried lightly prying it out. The only thing I can think of is somehow the screw is broken in half and for some reason the part with the flat head on it, won't back all the way out possibly due to how its broken. Am I SOL with this or is there something I can try to get it out. I saw where people used screw extractors to get a stripped jet out, however mine isn't stripped (atleasst not at the end) What I need is something that can pull it out as I spin it. It does turn in and out and move up and down, just doesn't come out enough to grab. Seems like something is maybe holding it in still. Any ideas.
also where did you get the manual you are using in this video?
@@TheHeadlessHorseman the screw you are referring to is not an idle screw. It is a fuel/air mix screw that meters how much fuel goes into the carb. I would first tighten it down and check the threads that are visible for any damage. Then I would add some kind of penetrating oil that could help clean them out. Then I would stand the carb up right (so gravity helps) while loosening the screw and simultaneously tapping the side lightly to possibly unjam it (I’d probably use the rear of a screwdriver). Then I would tighten and loosen the screw over and over to move any debris that may be stuck in the threads and then repeat everything over and over again a few times. I would also check the housing for any cracks that could indicate the tube is no longer centered (a crack could make it no longer centered and make it impossible for it to come out unless you bent/pushed it back together properly. If all this failed I hate to say it but I’d then drill it out like any other screw but very very delicately. My manual is a Haynes shop manual I found online a few years ago but I cannot remember from where.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Thank you so much for the detailed response. I will give this a shot when I have free time and report back. I don't think the screw is stuck on anything unless its just corroded in place. I can literally spin the screw counterclockwise a thousand times and it won't advance any further out. But it will screw in just fine and get tight.
Thanks, i sprayed wd40, letting it soak for 25 minutes, and then tapped on carb body and out it came. @suzukikatanamechanic5842
Where can I find the little rubber pieces that are inside the carbs?
I always find part numbers on suzukipartshouse.com and try eBay for cheeper parts first.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 I didn’t have any of them so I couldn’t get a part number which is why I asked, I found a forum that gave me the info thanks
Hey man where do you get all your parts. I need a complete carb rebuild kit and top end rebuild kit
I got my parts mostly from suzukipartshouse.com However, if your looking for a carb rebuild kit I can't remember. A while back I got a rebuild kit that had mislabeled jets from eBay and I was running so rich my bike wouldn't work. It happens more often than you'd think. Try to get Suzuki parts and not aftermarket.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 thank you I appreciate it man
I have an issue where my slides wont move when i pull the throttle, any way to remedy this?
The slides? If u mean the butterfly valves I’d say you probably have the center carb stuck on the intake boot to air box clamp. If you mean the choke slides I’d polish the slides and the inside of the carb where they go in. Could also just be the cable is seized internally. Could also just be you have the throttle handle on wrong and it needs to be rotated a bit more before it’s tightened down.
@suzukikatanamechanic5842 i mean the vacuum slides, i fixed the problem, they were very scratched up, i used diesel and 1500 grit sand paper and got them smooth and they work perfectly now. Thank you though!
Can you explain how to remove/install a new idle adjuster cable to the carburetor. Thank you
You just keep unscrewing it until it comes out and then screw in the new one.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 I mean from the actually carb where it meets the spring. It unscrews from there?
@@thelegend9299 Yes, you simply unscrew.
Sorry I figured it out.lol couldn’t get any easier
Hi,
I hope you can help with a problem with my Katana(GSX1000SZ). Since obtaining the bike I knew it had a problem with the clutch dragging and difficulty in engaging the gears without the bike stalling.
I have replaced the usual parts ie plates and springs etc, in fact, there is nothing much I have not changed including a NOS cable. Can you tell me if there is anything in regards to the clutch that is specific to the 1000SZ? I know many people think they have a Katana 1000 or parts are listed as GSX1100SZ?
I am really at a loss to think what could be the problem? I believe that the GSX clutch basket had a modification about this time? Looking through the oil filler cap and operating the clutch lever, the clutch moves smoothly!
I would really appreciate any advice you could offer and thereafter the part to solve this issue.
Regards
It sounds like a pretty severe problem. However, the only problem you mentioned is stalling when switching gears. Doesn’t necessarily mean clutch. Could have a problem with the gears not being shimmed properly, among many other possible things. How exactly does it stall? Neutral to first? Can it go above first? When shifting, does it sounds smooth? Are you able to keep the rpm high enough during shifts? Etc.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Hi Buddy. Firstly thank you for replying to my message. I have been trying for many months to solve this issue. I am a member of the Katana Owners Group, many suggestions but not much help. The clutch lever whilst heavy operates smoothly, feels like the clutch not fully disengaging. On the center stand, bikes start, from neutral to first, engage 1st gear, does no sound right (grinding gears - don't like to do this). With the clutch lever still fully in, the back wheel will spin. Can let the clutch out and the bike will go through all the gears. Cannot select neutral again. In neutral with the bike running, clutch fully in. The back wheel spinning, using to rear brake, or pushing the bike off the center stand, the bike will stall. In the past, I have managed to ride the bike on the road. At a stop the bike will want to creep and impossible to select neutral. I do not like to do this knowing something is not right and am I causing more damage? Saying that once the bike is underway can ride the bike without issue, just stopping and being unable to select neutral is a problem. If only clutch would move that little bit further to fully disengage. The current adjustment does not allow me to do that? Really appreciate any help/suggestions. Best Regards, Dan
@@cullercoatstunneloflove4307 I have had this before and unfortunately I think I know what your problem is. Your transmission is not shimmed properly. In neutral the gear will randomly engage and spin the back wheel. If you lean the bike left or right you will likely be able to force the gears to grind by letting them slide. If this is not the case I think you might be adjusting your clutch wrong. How are you adjusting your clutch? their are 2 parts you should look at when adjusting the clutch. The lever and the side of the bike that adjusts the pushrod.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Hi Buddy, Earlier I tried running the bike and leaning the bike to left and right. Could not hear any grinding noise. The clutch adjuster on the engine has hardly any free play. Pull the clutch lever in, using some molegrips the lever on the engine case can be move inwards, as is the clutch still has available movement. Pulling the clutch lever only take up 1/3 of movement available. Thing I will strip the clutch (again) tomorrow, frustrating problem. Cheers
@@cullercoatstunneloflove4307 What about the pushrod? Did you adjust that to have a small amount of play? It could also be bent. (Shifting really hard can do this) When I see people struggling with the clutch it’s normally this.
Can you tell where I can buy that carburetor repair kit
I'm not sure. I got one off of ebay a while back that was mislabeled and caused issues. I later went to a mechanic who discovered the issue for me and swapped them with ones he had.
So close, mines broken where it actually threads into the little mount off the side of the carb
That’s too bad. Hopefully you can figure something out to fix it. It’s hard to find reasonably priced old carbs in descent condition. Maybe you can fabricate your own part or a welder can reattach it?
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 that’s what I’m shooting for, seen a few different ways to at least make it work not really fix it tho, I have another set of carbs from that 89 that are perfect, might just cut the one mount off and try to job weld it on or somthing
All 4 main jets in my bike showing 120
Hi how many turns out did u for your air fuel screw ??
I cannot remember for certain but the factory position is 2.5 turns out. However, if you were to imitate my bike's setting exactly, you won't get the same results. This is because tuning is bike specific rather than model specific as changes in elevation and the exact condition of your bike will force you to tune yours differently. If you don't know how to tune it properly just leave it at 2.5 turns out and it should run just fine.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842
Only reason I ask is because number one Carb was one turn number two 1 1/4 number three 1 1/2 number four 2 turns
@@robphilip1646 Sounds like your bike would run horribly in that state. If it ran like that for too long you could cause serious damage to multiple parts in your engine including your valves. In this situation each cylinder is running incredibly lean and will cause your bike to overheat a ton. I can't stress enough how bad it is to have them like that.
Does anyone have online link to this book?
I can't remember where I got my book but I have heard great things about Haynes manuals. I think I should also mention that I've found a few mistakes in the book I'm currently using. haynes.com/en-us/suzuki/gsx750f-katana/1989-1996
Friend I have a dilemma the 3 holes that are of minimum speed the butterflies have to go behind them or in front
When you are assembling your carbs, it does not matter. You want all of the butterflies to line up in the same exact way on those holes. Then when the bike is fully assembled, you tune the idle which will move the butterflies around the holes according to what will give the correct RPM in idle.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 thanks i will try to do it
What is the OEM fuel line?
The fuel line I am using in this video is actually a bad one to use on a Katana and I've since swapped them. I'm not sure what the OEM fuel line is called, but it is not as thick as this one. You want the fuel line to be thin and this braided type is very thick and kinks up when routing which slows the fuel flow. I recommend you buy a 1/4" Inner diameter fuel line that is thin and pliable. Their are many translucent fuel lines with different tints available that would fit this. The main thing to avoid is anything that is braided or too thick like the one in this video.
Can you do a video draining fuel from your carb bowl from the bottom
It's incredibly easy to do and everything in this video contains all the steps. Remove the carbs with the airbox attached and then loosen the drain screws on the carb bowls. If you drain them with the carbs on the bike, fuel will leak on the top of your crankcase.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 I just drained my carb an it had water bubbles floating in the gas now it’s running like it suppose to but still got a lil bit of a miss when I hit the gas I can live with that. I only drained that one you think I should have drained them all?? Appreciate the help brother
@@ncgoon336 You should drain them all.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 I drained them all an it still runs like it’s missing or flooding on take off but when I get in it it clears out. I jetted my carbs then recently I had to change out my petcock bc it was leaking gas I put a new one on it you think that one could be throwing out more fuel than my old one causing it to flood on take off it sounds flooding through all the gears
@@ncgoon336 Your carbs are supposed to stop receiving fuel from the petcock because of the carb floats. If your carbs are leaking gas, then this is possible. I think you are missing the rubber stoppers inside the carb and you should thoroughly clean each carb. Don't forget to make sure each spark plug is sparking too.
What are theose rubber pieces for. under the floats my carbs don't have them
That's a plug for one of your jets. Its part number 35 in this link. For some reason I have seen quite a few people missing that part online. I have no idea why people are missing it other than that its a small and easy to lose part and its location isn't as intuitive as other parts. www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/suz/5ffcfa0687a866162c7674c5/carburetor
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Are they needed bike seems to run good with out them.
@@doug12382 I'm really not sure. I would do it to make sure your fuel air mix is correct but I don't know how big of a deal it is.
@@doug12382 I've been doing some research and you definitely need it. The cap is there because fuel is not supposed to go directly through the bottom hole. Your fuel air mix will not be correct and it is crucial you replace it. While it seems to run okay, it is not and will cause long-term problems.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Thanks
I'm having a hard time getting spare parts here in Brazil.
I normally use eBay or suzukipartshouse.com
Hey man. I really need help. Could you private message me? I’m running into some problems. Or is there anyway I could send you video of what’s it doing please and thank you
Instagram: bill_armstrong_dxb
I added you on Instagram
So great that you skip over everything actually being done....