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@@jakobrandolph3126 Most likely an air leak issue but could be a fuel air mix problem. Airleak could be from any number of places where the carb cleaner is too thick to reach. Some people use butane for this reason. Unburnt fuel could also cause it to keep running higher until it burns out. This could be from a weak spark or your carbs could be having any number of issues. Ovaled emulsion tubes, wrong size jets, fuel air screw backed out too much, float height wrong, etc. Never forget the phrase “keep it simple stupid”. When there is an issue with a car/bike, it’s almost always the simple problem. Instead of your piston being broken, you just need to swap spark plugs kind of thing. Does it behave like this when warmed up all the way? Have you tried messing with the choke to see if that has an impact?

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 so for my carbs I still have the Welch plugs in it from factory so air/fuel has never been messed with, and I kinda thought unburnt fuel could be a issue, I’ve been having a issue with it flooding out but think I chalked that down to having needles that where way to small, ended up goign and getting the right needles outa a identical carb from a junk yard around here so gonna slap them in tmrw and see what happens, but last questions what are the little plugs on the pilot jets for, almost positive I don’t have them

@@jakobrandolph3126 the rubber plugs have an impact on the fuel air mix. I couldn’t say exactly what they do but if you’re missing them is a likely source for problems. If your needs are too thin the emulsions tubes might be ovaled too. I have a video regarding how to install a coil relay which you might be interested in as well.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 I’ve taken a look at the coil relay video before and ima for sure have to go get me one, would they cary them at autozone or anything? And kinda what I thought I noticed there was no plugs after watching your video and yeah kinda figured that would give me issues, thank you again

@@jakobrandolph3126 the relay I used is used in a lot of cars so autozone will probably have it. They’ll definitely have some kind of relay in stock but make sure it’s waterproof or at least very resistant to water. If it goes out your bike will be stuck wherever it is

@@kerivam123 I don’t think I originally had those wires. They may be a California model thing as those models have some extra electrical stuff. If it is, you can just rip all that stuff off as it’s completely unnecessary. It’s also possible mine just didn’t have them as the rodent damage made me almost completely rewire the bike. Didn’t help that the previous guy tried to fix it and made it worse. I did end up grinding off all the fairing brackets as I’ll never be buying any and the original were so badly damaged. I’ve since changed the Speedo to an amazing one, repainted it to a less flashy but nicer color, and am in the process of changing to braided stainless brake lines. (Front cylinder’s piston gave out so I’m rebuilding it all) Rebuilt most of it in the past but not everything. Changing the seals inside the calipers too. Hopefully I’ll be able to make a video about it but flight-school just takes up so much of my time lately.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 I'm in the UK. I've had the bike since March as a fixer upper but other things have got in the way. I still have the fairing but won't be using it, I much prefer the naked look but I wanted the performance of the 750 (wasn't impressed with the 600 bandit after many years on a torquey gs500 but the 1200 bandit is out of my budget). I'll have to work out what the connectors are and if I can reroute them. At some point I plan to drop a b12 or gsx1100f engine in it, but that's a ways off. It'd be nice to just have a running bike at some point, I pulled the gs500 apart in May last year and it's still in bits... I'm using the headlight, mirrors, indicators, aftermarket levers, heated grips and whatever else I can transfer over to the gsxf then the rest of the GS will be sold in bits. Lucky for me, someone already put steel braided lines on. It needs a timing chain (which I'm in the process of), top end gaskets, rear brake service, suspension linkage bearings and I can't remember what else. The tyres are 10 years old but not perished at all and hold air, surprisingly. Thanks for the response and I'll look out for your future videos.

@@philasselstine7816 I won’t be able to for a long while but it’s pretty straight forward. Remove the 2 Philips screws holding the kill and starter switch first. Then split it in half and disconnect the cable from the handlebar and pull the cable through. To reassemble it put the cable through the switch’s box, attach it to the throttle, and while putting it back together pull on the throttle as if you were giving it full gas so it lines up properly and align the switch box with the hole in the handle bar. Then just tighten the 2 screws back down.

@@carreteras101 if some of the bearings are missing you’ll notice the play around the mechanism itself. If theirs a ton of slack to the lever it’s probably the cable that’s messed up. Could be stretching/breaking.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 ok, i will check for play at the mechanism, then replace the clutch cable. thanks for the advice and best of luck with school.

@@damyonchrysler7818 I have a carb rebuild video you should see. (Not the same carbs but the info/how to is the same) I don’t recommend using gauges to sync the carbs unless you know how to sync the gauges. I just bench sync mine.

@@erikstifflerjr8557 Mine is a 1990 GSX750F

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 what year and everything carbs can work on these cause I need a set bad

@@erikstifflerjr8557 89-98 I believe. When checking for compatibility I always look at part numbers. Check out the diagrams on suzukipartshouse.com for them

@@hawkwarrior5066 I’m not sure about the firing order but I’m pretty sure it’s been posted in the comments already. I can say though that each spark plug always sparks at the same time so it doesn’t matter where the wires go.

@@damyonchrysler7818 this could be any number of problems. First check if the battery is able to hold enough charge to do anything. Then I would check fuses to see if any have issues. After that I would look at a wiring diagram to make sure you connected the ignition wires correctly. Then I would start by checking the volts going through different parts of the harness to see where the issue is. Old katanas frequently have issues at the switches themselves so I’d test to see if the starter button is actually able to complete a circuit along with the kill switch. Then check if the starter is able to turn over by connecting the battery directly to the starter. Could always be a starter relay problem too. Considering the ignition wires were cut I’d say the most likely problem is you didn’t connect them together properly.

@@blothhounder8327 sounds like the cable could be damaged internally. I’d pull off the clutch cover on the side of the engine to make sure the spring didn’t come off first but I think you might need a new cable.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842thanks man, cable was frayed in a couple spots and caused it to be stretched. Got a new one and is good as new

@@RyF-l2n No, any relay will do as long as it’s strong enough and preferably waterproof. I’ve already talked to people who’ve had their bikes refuse to start because water got in their relay.

@@airjunky1 I have a manual tensioner but will never use it. There is no easy way to adjust it and any manual tensioner would need constant adjustments made. In my engine reassembly video I show the best way to install the standard tensioner and adjust it which I highly recommend.

@@ultraterminator4658 im pretty sure they should be able to be swapped with no issue. First thing I would do is check part numbers. Go to suzukipartshouse.com and make sure they are the same. If they are then they should definitely work and your issue could be any number of things. First thing I normally check is fuses but it could be any number of problems. For the choke to carb I would check one of my other videos. It’s pretty easy to attach and I believe in my “how to install intake boots” video I show it.

@@jakobrandolph3126 I always use suzukipartshouse.com for this. Find the part number associated with your year and then check the part number for the year of the part you’ve found. If they’re the same, then you know they’re compatible.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 perfect thank you

@@jakobrandolph3126 glad to hear it!

Good Stuff

@@jakobrandolph3126 I’ve heard of rebuild kits available for them but generally swapping for a new one is the best way to go. I’d also recommend you double check your float height to possibly reduce the problem. Just make sure the petcock is pointed straight down when parked (on and off are the same positions). You’d be surprised how many people don’t realize this.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 appreciate ya as always, didn’t realize this bike was gonna be this much a issue, but than again she is 30 something years old so what can I really exspect, but gonna hunt down a new one, I know Amazon has some but it’s the same thing already on this and this one failed so early it seems just worries me buying another one that’s the same

@@jakobrandolph3126 I’d go for a new Suzuki petcock. I did that a while back and I haven’t had any issues since. If you find another parts bike you’ll likely end up having the same broken parts due to age. Unless you have an absurd amount of damage unrelated to age it’s not really worthwhile.

@@jakobrandolph3126 could be a few things. The spark is so weak it’s not working, valves are so off it won’t fire, way too much fuel, too little fuel etc. I would recommend starting by swapping parts around. It’s most likely related to spark so swap spark plugs with another cylinder and have the coils connect in a different order. If you’re able to get a different cylinder to not fire you found the issue.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 thanks man I appreciate ya big time, ima go give her a try and see what I can figure out

@@briangtester2536 if someone doesn’t have experience working on similar things I definitely wouldn’t recommend it in general. Most likely going to break something in the process.

@@jakobrandolph3126 idk what you have but it shouldn’t be different. The 89 should be the exact same carb. Shouldn’t have just 1 gas line or anything different. My tank is actually from 89. Check parts diagrams on suzukipartshouse.com and you’ll see parts numbers and which things change from year to year. My bike has parts from 89-97 on it right now. Is something wrong with your current needles? Check your emulsion tube for ovaling if your bike has that much ware.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 I got my 89 as a parts bike and was told that everything with it came off of that bike, carbs are a good bit different, the supposed 89 set have a single gas line with a single gas outlet petcock and the 91 set looks identical to yours, ima prolly try the needles from the 89 set they arnt the exact same but are pretty close to it, worst comes to worst I’ll hunt down the exact needles for my carb, luckily I still have the little spacers and the plates that sit on top

@@jakobrandolph3126 that website I mentioned should have them in stock and guaranteed correct fitment. Problem is price and probably a 2 week wait.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 fair enough, thank you for the help again, worst comes to worst I could prolly go threw partzilla

I don’t think there is. In a case like this I would assume a bad alternator. In general they’re quite fickle and it’s not uncommon to receive a new one that doesn’t work right. A while back I had a new one for my car that would overcharge at high RPM. Once I hit around 4-5k RPM every light in the car would just shutoff for a few seconds.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Hmm, i came to that conclusion too, guess the expenses pilling up on it haha

@@elixer141 I feel that. Spent roughly 5x the value of this bike making it work

That’s too bad. Hopefully you can figure something out to fix it. It’s hard to find reasonably priced old carbs in descent condition. Maybe you can fabricate your own part or a welder can reattach it?

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 that’s what I’m shooting for, seen a few different ways to at least make it work not really fix it tho, I have another set of carbs from that 89 that are perfect, might just cut the one mount off and try to job weld it on or somthing

Did you do something similar to install the speed sensor? I never saw any details on how other people installed theirs so I had to figure it out on my own.

​​​@@suzukikatanamechanic5842I installed to read from the rotor screws, same as you did, but i managed to use only the hardware provided with the gauge, no customization needed, the fit was really tight tho, i can send you pictures if you want

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 I installed the sensor to pick up the signal from the rotor screws as you did, buy i installed directly with the hardware provided with the gauge, no personalization needed, i will gladly send you picture if you want

​@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 The only thing i need to do is to drill a hole on the oil pan banjo screw that conects the inlet of the radiator (i have to figure it out wich is the inlet and wich the return) and tap it to screw the temp sensor. Doing that i will be using 100% of the gauge features. For me the 10k limit of the rpm is plentiful since this are old engines so that is the limit of i want to go on the rpms, if the gauge hits 10k i shift no mater what

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 The mounting is almost the same as yours but using only the hardware provided with the gauge, no custom parts. I can gladly send you pictures, the only disadvantage is that the pickup sensor align in the center of the rotor screw so i have to set up as 10 pick up points instead of 5. Another difference on ours installations is that i pick up the rpm signal directly from the "tachometer" labeled pin on the CDI and works like a charm

I’ve heard of people using solid metal ones but I’ve still got the original rubber. I haven’t had any issues with mine yet and they still feel great.

I gotta feeling I’d like your bike, lol. Did you setup the fuel gauge or temp sensor on it?

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 not the temp sensor as it would require some drilling in the engine and cause resources in my country its near impossible, but fuel gauge yes, its street fighter and cafe combo, once i bought the speedo, i changed the fuel tank with the one that had gauge system in it. And ive also spent shit ton of money on like you have hahaha

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 its the same katana 750 engine, chassis is of 1982 suzuki gs 550, r6 back suspension and swingarm, front shocks of katana.

So we are three brothers with a 750 and KOSO TNT-04 gauges lol

@@francobaleani5973 it looks soo good out of all those koso speedos

I’m not sure. The tach said around 30k when I got it but the engine screamed 130k. I’ve also rebuilt it to the point where just saying mileage doesn’t really do it justice.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 fair enough, my 91 has 31,xxx on it and got it non running was just wondering what the ball park mileage would be to start worrying lmao

Sorry, I do not. Just have videos on this bike. I believe the 89-98 should have the same carbs but the 600 is a little different. There are also a few odd variations to them such as the California model.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 yeah I started figuring most the things out got confused on it being a dual outlet petcock when most all outhers are a single so that was one of my big things that confused me a big bit think I got that figured out now luckily, and one more question if you got a second, so where my throttle cable screws onto my carb that mount is compleatly blown out, any ideas on fixing it or at least just making it work without having to get a new #3 carb and re sinking all of um and all that

@@jakobrandolph3126 I really should make a video about this. I had the same issue right when I got my bike and had to fabricate a part for it to function. I think I showed it in my carb video actually. Just checked and it’s at 2:21 in it

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 perfect thank you so much, your a huge help

I’ve seen people do similar things with bandit 1200 engines online before. In hindsight I wish I did this instead of rebuilding my engine to the extent I had as it would have been cheeper and had better performance.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 1 thing i did and you could is put a turbo on it, easy performance and since you rebuilded the engine you know it wont blow up... Put a cheap 21mm on it and double the horsepower instantly

@@theointechs that sounds awesome but I’m in flight school so don’t have the time or money. Hit something on the highway 2 weeks ago and am replacing the chain, sprockets, and chain dampener as is right now. Just had my chain flaring tool, flare rather than my master link too, lol.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Yeah i get it , for me it was more of a work around because i live in Quebec Canada and sports bikes cost 3k$ to register so swapping the motor is a sleeper 500$ to register bike

I can’t remember for sure. The original harness uses quite thin wires. I believe they might have been 12 or 14. That being said I always used a slightly thicker gauge everywhere I had to rewire which was most of the harness because of rodent damage. I believe I was using mostly 8 and or 10 for everything I redid. The main thing when choosing wire sizes for this is to not go thinner. I like to go 1-2 sizes thicker at most if I think the wires are too thin for long term durability.

czcams.com/video/vRSC20vEUkQ/video.htmlsi=lCir4fdD-ugyccxv

Not at all. I was adjusting the valves in this video after reassembling the engine so I have lots of unnecessary things off.

Coming back to this video after finally getting to work on it. Notes for anyone coming in behind me: tank doesn't need to be drained to take off. Also notes for anyone coming in behind me: reconnect the vacuum line to the back of the petcock after you do this :')

No, an airleak will cause fluctuations in high RPM. Not a constantly high rpm. I think your throttle cable is stuck on one of the intake boot clamps though keeping your throttle stuck open.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 ok ill look into that tonight i ordered the boots regardless. I also do not have an idle air adjuster. My rebuild kit came with them but where all the videos show it is have a brass peice with no flathead shop just a small hole in the center?

@@TooLowTony you don’t see that too often anymore. The brass piece is a plug that prevents people from adjusting the fuel air mix. It’s 2.5 turns out from bottomed out stock for emission purposes which is usually slightly lean. The first thing everyone does is drill out those brass plugs to gain access. Also they don’t adjust the air, they adjust the fuel in the katana.

@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Swapped back to factory jets and found/replaced the afr adjuster then set it to factory settings and it works great

@@TooLowTony It’s incredibly common to get the incorrect sized jets on eBay so always avoid carb rebuild kits on there.

I don’t use a tool, I just bench sync like in the video.

also where did you get the manual you are using in this video?

@@TheHeadlessHorseman the screw you are referring to is not an idle screw. It is a fuel/air mix screw that meters how much fuel goes into the carb. I would first tighten it down and check the threads that are visible for any damage. Then I would add some kind of penetrating oil that could help clean them out. Then I would stand the carb up right (so gravity helps) while loosening the screw and simultaneously tapping the side lightly to possibly unjam it (I’d probably use the rear of a screwdriver). Then I would tighten and loosen the screw over and over to move any debris that may be stuck in the threads and then repeat everything over and over again a few times. I would also check the housing for any cracks that could indicate the tube is no longer centered (a crack could make it no longer centered and make it impossible for it to come out unless you bent/pushed it back together properly. If all this failed I hate to say it but I’d then drill it out like any other screw but very very delicately. My manual is a Haynes shop manual I found online a few years ago but I cannot remember from where.

​@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Thank you so much for the detailed response. I will give this a shot when I have free time and report back. I don't think the screw is stuck on anything unless its just corroded in place. I can literally spin the screw counterclockwise a thousand times and it won't advance any further out. But it will screw in just fine and get tight.

Thanks, i sprayed wd40, letting it soak for 25 minutes, and then tapped on carb body and out it came. ​@suzukikatanamechanic5842

I know for sure I showed that in one of my videos. I think it was at the end of my engine reassembly one. You might also be interested in my coil relay mod video.

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