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Suzuki Katana Mechanic
Registrace 5. 06. 2020
I rebuilt a 1990 GSX750F and received help from many online sources and helpful people. I thought I'd simplify what I could for the next person needing help so everything is in an easy to watch simple platform. Good luck on your bike!
How to adjust Suzuki Katana clutch
This bike is a 1990 GSX750F, other models may have slightly different specs as to what is described in this video.
Additional info/Corrections:
1. The part I recommend you don’t remove should be greased every few years. If you choose to do this, be VERY careful.
2. While my book recommends 1/4 to 1-2 a turn out . Some people will recommend 1/8 instead. So long as the clutch doesn’t stay engaged, this is fine and may be preferable to you depending on how you like your clutch set.
Additional info/Corrections:
1. The part I recommend you don’t remove should be greased every few years. If you choose to do this, be VERY careful.
2. While my book recommends 1/4 to 1-2 a turn out . Some people will recommend 1/8 instead. So long as the clutch doesn’t stay engaged, this is fine and may be preferable to you depending on how you like your clutch set.
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I recommend getting a chain alignment tool if you are not confident in your results. too tight or too loose of a chain can be very dangerous and result in damage to your bike or catastrophic accident. Check chain tension frequently, especially after installing a new chain. Correction 1: I have since added stainless lock washers to help prevent the nuts from backing out.
Suzuki Katana Engine Reassembly 1990 GSX750F
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Correction 1: I recommend you use a different gasket maker than I am using on the crank case halves. Alternatives can be permatex motoseal and yamabond 4 or other higher quality gasket makers. Correction 2: In the manual it says to replace the o-rings and use grease for the oil tubes (11:05). I and many other people experience leaks from this location after doing this. I recommend using plenty ...
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Testing resistance on spark plugs: czcams.com/video/hnd7P7O_vEQ/video.html Coil Relay Mod (Improves spark): czcams.com/video/kHy9PmvguQE/video.html
1990 Suzuki Katana 750 Carburetor Assembly/Disassembly, Bench Sync & Float Height
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Alternative Carburetor video: vimeo.com/67356693 Float Height: vimeo.com/68097145 Correction 1: I forgot to mention Emulsion Tube ovaling. This happens in extremely high mileage bikes where the emulsion tube will have an ovaled shape instead of a circular one. If this is the case they must be replaced.
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I have since made many major changes to this bike and will make a follow up video in the future. (You can see quite a few of them in my video explaining how to adjust your chain)
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0:48 - Why use a Coil Relay 2:08 - How to install the Coil Relay The relay I'm using is "GM OEM Ignition Wiring Harness K" - 22694036
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Correction 1: At 7:05 I have a line connected from the tank overflow to the fuel sensor. Technically it’s fine if it stays like this but I prefer to have the fuel sensor side not connected to anything and the drain part pointing away from the bike Correction 2: In this video I show the vacuum line that operates the petcock connected to the side of the carburetor. This is the original and standa...
So I’m unfortunately back, having a goofy high idle issue, sprayed carb cleaner around the boots while running and no change in idle or anything, got any ideas? It idles fine until I blip the throttle than it well rev up fine but on its way back down it’ll get stuck or hold at 3k and eventually fall back down to 1,200 or so but still is a bit shaky and moves
@@jakobrandolph3126 Most likely an air leak issue but could be a fuel air mix problem. Airleak could be from any number of places where the carb cleaner is too thick to reach. Some people use butane for this reason. Unburnt fuel could also cause it to keep running higher until it burns out. This could be from a weak spark or your carbs could be having any number of issues. Ovaled emulsion tubes, wrong size jets, fuel air screw backed out too much, float height wrong, etc. Never forget the phrase “keep it simple stupid”. When there is an issue with a car/bike, it’s almost always the simple problem. Instead of your piston being broken, you just need to swap spark plugs kind of thing. Does it behave like this when warmed up all the way? Have you tried messing with the choke to see if that has an impact?
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 so for my carbs I still have the Welch plugs in it from factory so air/fuel has never been messed with, and I kinda thought unburnt fuel could be a issue, I’ve been having a issue with it flooding out but think I chalked that down to having needles that where way to small, ended up goign and getting the right needles outa a identical carb from a junk yard around here so gonna slap them in tmrw and see what happens, but last questions what are the little plugs on the pilot jets for, almost positive I don’t have them
@@jakobrandolph3126 the rubber plugs have an impact on the fuel air mix. I couldn’t say exactly what they do but if you’re missing them is a likely source for problems. If your needs are too thin the emulsions tubes might be ovaled too. I have a video regarding how to install a coil relay which you might be interested in as well.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 I’ve taken a look at the coil relay video before and ima for sure have to go get me one, would they cary them at autozone or anything? And kinda what I thought I noticed there was no plugs after watching your video and yeah kinda figured that would give me issues, thank you again
@@jakobrandolph3126 the relay I used is used in a lot of cars so autozone will probably have it. They’ll definitely have some kind of relay in stock but make sure it’s waterproof or at least very resistant to water. If it goes out your bike will be stuck wherever it is
Hi, I take it you ground the fairing brackets off and patched up the paint? I'm thinking about attempting to fit a bandit 1200 tank to my naked gsx750f. Did yours have the green electrical connectors on the left hand side that would normally be hidden by the fairing? I'm wondering what to do with those, some people just leave them but I think that looks a bit rough. Most my bikes tend to end up as rats in the end but I want go get it looking smart to begin with even if it ends up that way. I plan to keep the tail fairing on mine, but I may swap to the later ones with the nicer looking tail light as mine is a 1998 model with that strange cone shape taillight.
@@kerivam123 I don’t think I originally had those wires. They may be a California model thing as those models have some extra electrical stuff. If it is, you can just rip all that stuff off as it’s completely unnecessary. It’s also possible mine just didn’t have them as the rodent damage made me almost completely rewire the bike. Didn’t help that the previous guy tried to fix it and made it worse. I did end up grinding off all the fairing brackets as I’ll never be buying any and the original were so badly damaged. I’ve since changed the Speedo to an amazing one, repainted it to a less flashy but nicer color, and am in the process of changing to braided stainless brake lines. (Front cylinder’s piston gave out so I’m rebuilding it all) Rebuilt most of it in the past but not everything. Changing the seals inside the calipers too. Hopefully I’ll be able to make a video about it but flight-school just takes up so much of my time lately.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 I'm in the UK. I've had the bike since March as a fixer upper but other things have got in the way. I still have the fairing but won't be using it, I much prefer the naked look but I wanted the performance of the 750 (wasn't impressed with the 600 bandit after many years on a torquey gs500 but the 1200 bandit is out of my budget). I'll have to work out what the connectors are and if I can reroute them. At some point I plan to drop a b12 or gsx1100f engine in it, but that's a ways off. It'd be nice to just have a running bike at some point, I pulled the gs500 apart in May last year and it's still in bits... I'm using the headlight, mirrors, indicators, aftermarket levers, heated grips and whatever else I can transfer over to the gsxf then the rest of the GS will be sold in bits. Lucky for me, someone already put steel braided lines on. It needs a timing chain (which I'm in the process of), top end gaskets, rear brake service, suspension linkage bearings and I can't remember what else. The tyres are 10 years old but not perished at all and hold air, surprisingly. Thanks for the response and I'll look out for your future videos.
can u do video on how to unhoock thotle cable from handke bar and how to re ajust it when hooked back up so it snaps back right
@@philasselstine7816 I won’t be able to for a long while but it’s pretty straight forward. Remove the 2 Philips screws holding the kill and starter switch first. Then split it in half and disconnect the cable from the handlebar and pull the cable through. To reassemble it put the cable through the switch’s box, attach it to the throttle, and while putting it back together pull on the throttle as if you were giving it full gas so it lines up properly and align the switch box with the hole in the handle bar. Then just tighten the 2 screws back down.
Dude i spent MONTHS trying to figure this out myself. Thank you so much. Much love from Philly🤙🏼
thanks for making this video. i am a long time subscriber. i just replaced the clutch plates and there is still lots of clutch cable slack at the clutch lever after i have properly adjusted the clutch release screw and nut, and 10mm and 12mm adjusters by the sprocket cover. like you, i'm thinking that the ball bearings have probably "escaped" from the previous owner, so i guess my next step is to buy a new suzuki oem clutch release assembly 23200-31300 for $55. the clutch cable appears to be in good shape. any advice or words of wisdom is appreciated.
@@carreteras101 if some of the bearings are missing you’ll notice the play around the mechanism itself. If theirs a ton of slack to the lever it’s probably the cable that’s messed up. Could be stretching/breaking.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 ok, i will check for play at the mechanism, then replace the clutch cable. thanks for the advice and best of luck with school.
Hey man you seem to be the right guy to ask this where do I put my Guage to check sync of each carb mine 95 600 kanotuna is sputtering and popping so I could only think it's to much air
@@damyonchrysler7818 I have a carb rebuild video you should see. (Not the same carbs but the info/how to is the same) I don’t recommend using gauges to sync the carbs unless you know how to sync the gauges. I just bench sync mine.
What year is ur bike I have a 91
@@erikstifflerjr8557 Mine is a 1990 GSX750F
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 what year and everything carbs can work on these cause I need a set bad
@@erikstifflerjr8557 89-98 I believe. When checking for compatibility I always look at part numbers. Check out the diagrams on suzukipartshouse.com for them
Hello, according to Haynes' manual, the 1998 to 2006 spark plugs firing order is 1243, is yours the same and also what colour wier plugs into the left coil is it the orange and white on top connecter and right side black and yellow top connecter
@@hawkwarrior5066 I’m not sure about the firing order but I’m pretty sure it’s been posted in the comments already. I can say though that each spark plug always sparks at the same time so it doesn’t matter where the wires go.
I had my katana stolen they cut ignition wires and I hooked a battery charger up to the bike to try start it on wires together alone and I am not getting anything could it be needs power of a charged battery or is it the volts it's reading are to high to low or main fuse any ideas?
@@damyonchrysler7818 this could be any number of problems. First check if the battery is able to hold enough charge to do anything. Then I would check fuses to see if any have issues. After that I would look at a wiring diagram to make sure you connected the ignition wires correctly. Then I would start by checking the volts going through different parts of the harness to see where the issue is. Old katanas frequently have issues at the switches themselves so I’d test to see if the starter button is actually able to complete a circuit along with the kill switch. Then check if the starter is able to turn over by connecting the battery directly to the starter. Could always be a starter relay problem too. Considering the ignition wires were cut I’d say the most likely problem is you didn’t connect them together properly.
I’m having issues with my clutch line having wayyy too much slack. With my adjuster screw on the handle bars backed out all the way the the line has so much slack when I pull the clutch it there’s yet no tension I tried what was demonstrated in this video but it’s still the same, any ideas? It worked fine til I was riding went to downshift and my line fell out of the screw and nut
@@blothhounder8327 sounds like the cable could be damaged internally. I’d pull off the clutch cover on the side of the engine to make sure the spring didn’t come off first but I think you might need a new cable.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842thanks man, cable was frayed in a couple spots and caused it to be stretched. Got a new one and is good as new
Do I need to have the same pin setup?
@@RyF-l2n No, any relay will do as long as it’s strong enough and preferably waterproof. I’ve already talked to people who’ve had their bikes refuse to start because water got in their relay.
Thanks for the detailed videos. If you had a manual cam chain tensioner, what would be your strategy for the best/easiest way to access and adjust, starting with all the bodywork in place?
@@airjunky1 I have a manual tensioner but will never use it. There is no easy way to adjust it and any manual tensioner would need constant adjustments made. In my engine reassembly video I show the best way to install the standard tensioner and adjust it which I highly recommend.
This is very informative and helpful but maybe you could help me more? 02 750 swapped the motor to an 06 600 and my Speedo and tach don’t work when I have everything plugged in I assume correctly. Also could you show how the choke cable mounts to the carburetors. Thanks
@@ultraterminator4658 im pretty sure they should be able to be swapped with no issue. First thing I would do is check part numbers. Go to suzukipartshouse.com and make sure they are the same. If they are then they should definitely work and your issue could be any number of things. First thing I normally check is fuses but it could be any number of problems. For the choke to carb I would check one of my other videos. It’s pretty easy to attach and I believe in my “how to install intake boots” video I show it.
So I’m back with more questions lmao, any idea on what years would be compatible with the boots, I’m missing a single boot on my air box and have found a bunch of early 2000s parts bikes around me but not sure if they are cross compatible
@@jakobrandolph3126 I always use suzukipartshouse.com for this. Find the part number associated with your year and then check the part number for the year of the part you’ve found. If they’re the same, then you know they’re compatible.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 perfect thank you
Little update, did my valves and boom the bike fires right up idles revs up all of it, I appreciate all the videos you made and all the help, I’m sure I’ll have more questions as I go to ride it later but for now everything is perfect, thank you again
@@jakobrandolph3126 glad to hear it!
Good Stuff
Any idea if the 600s valve clearence would be the same? (Edit, i found out they are different lmao the 600s are .004-.006 for both intake and exhaust)
Any suggestions for fixing a leaky petcock without getting a new one? I pulled mine apart and all looks good gaskets are fine it holds vacuumed all that but the plunger isn’t getting pushed back in far enough to stop the flow of gas once there isn’t vacuum, had a bunch of gas in my oil and all the outher fun shit that comes with that
@@jakobrandolph3126 I’ve heard of rebuild kits available for them but generally swapping for a new one is the best way to go. I’d also recommend you double check your float height to possibly reduce the problem. Just make sure the petcock is pointed straight down when parked (on and off are the same positions). You’d be surprised how many people don’t realize this.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 appreciate ya as always, didn’t realize this bike was gonna be this much a issue, but than again she is 30 something years old so what can I really exspect, but gonna hunt down a new one, I know Amazon has some but it’s the same thing already on this and this one failed so early it seems just worries me buying another one that’s the same
@@jakobrandolph3126 I’d go for a new Suzuki petcock. I did that a while back and I haven’t had any issues since. If you find another parts bike you’ll likely end up having the same broken parts due to age. Unless you have an absurd amount of damage unrelated to age it’s not really worthwhile.
You show more than anyone else. But I guess I got to start making videos foe people cause when your putting it back together you will still be lost cause nobody seems to show where each hose goes to just where you connect them and there is way to many place the other ends can go. Example the peckcock wise you show hook to the peckcock but not where they go to. But thank you this helps more than anybody else's video. Guess it's time to look up the manual to find exactly where they are routined to.
So fianlly got mine running today…kinda, so all cylinders are running besides the second one in if your standing on the left side of the bike, any ideas what it could be? Checked spark and am getting spark and pulled the plug and the plug was wet witch leads me to believe it’s getting gas, I have 30,000 or so miles on it and I gaurentee no one’s ever messed with the valves, do you think that could be my issue? Or anything else you could think of? Any help is appreciated
@@jakobrandolph3126 could be a few things. The spark is so weak it’s not working, valves are so off it won’t fire, way too much fuel, too little fuel etc. I would recommend starting by swapping parts around. It’s most likely related to spark so swap spark plugs with another cylinder and have the coils connect in a different order. If you’re able to get a different cylinder to not fire you found the issue.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 thanks man I appreciate ya big time, ima go give her a try and see what I can figure out
If people wanting to do this, could still read it would make it a lot easier. These videoes are NOT enough to do this!
@@briangtester2536 if someone doesn’t have experience working on similar things I definitely wouldn’t recommend it in general. Most likely going to break something in the process.
i have 1988 model katana 600 can i use 1995 carb on it btw mine doesnt have airbox
Carb question for ya so after getting my carb rebuild kit for my 91 I realized it didn’t come with needles (when it showed it did) It’s a pain in the ass to find the needles for it and I don’t wanna order them and wait forever just for them to be wrong, do you think I could just take my 89 set of carbs and throw them on the 91? Would there really be any differences or would it just pretty much be plug and play? (besides the petcock being different and there being a single gas line instead of two) but again appreciate ya and all the help
@@jakobrandolph3126 idk what you have but it shouldn’t be different. The 89 should be the exact same carb. Shouldn’t have just 1 gas line or anything different. My tank is actually from 89. Check parts diagrams on suzukipartshouse.com and you’ll see parts numbers and which things change from year to year. My bike has parts from 89-97 on it right now. Is something wrong with your current needles? Check your emulsion tube for ovaling if your bike has that much ware.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 I got my 89 as a parts bike and was told that everything with it came off of that bike, carbs are a good bit different, the supposed 89 set have a single gas line with a single gas outlet petcock and the 91 set looks identical to yours, ima prolly try the needles from the 89 set they arnt the exact same but are pretty close to it, worst comes to worst I’ll hunt down the exact needles for my carb, luckily I still have the little spacers and the plates that sit on top
@@jakobrandolph3126 that website I mentioned should have them in stock and guaranteed correct fitment. Problem is price and probably a 2 week wait.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 fair enough, thank you for the help again, worst comes to worst I could prolly go threw partzilla
Thank you!
Great video man!
one thing fam, does the base 750f has a rectifier to control overcharging of battery ? As far as ive researched, i couldnt find any and ive been having the overcharge problem lately, 2-3 battery had gone preggo, any help would be appreciated. or a video around it <3
I don’t think there is. In a case like this I would assume a bad alternator. In general they’re quite fickle and it’s not uncommon to receive a new one that doesn’t work right. A while back I had a new one for my car that would overcharge at high RPM. Once I hit around 4-5k RPM every light in the car would just shutoff for a few seconds.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Hmm, i came to that conclusion too, guess the expenses pilling up on it haha
@@elixer141 I feel that. Spent roughly 5x the value of this bike making it work
4:20 I almost lost 2 or 3 ball bearings. I didn't knew the mechanism of that piece and I took it apart to clean around it and guess what happened.. yeah, lots of hours in fitting that back, and first time I reversed it and mount it, the clutch slipped like crazy.. and then I realised, took it all apart again, mount it the right way.. yeah just lots of hours of working for nothing :D Good thing is that I've put new vaseline on those ball bearings with this opportunity. So then, if anyone is watching and reading this comment, please do not remove that clutch piece unless you have too much time :D
So close, mines broken where it actually threads into the little mount off the side of the carb
That’s too bad. Hopefully you can figure something out to fix it. It’s hard to find reasonably priced old carbs in descent condition. Maybe you can fabricate your own part or a welder can reattach it?
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 that’s what I’m shooting for, seen a few different ways to at least make it work not really fix it tho, I have another set of carbs from that 89 that are perfect, might just cut the one mount off and try to job weld it on or somthing
Hell yea, i have the same installed in my katana, the best gauge for our bikes in the market
Did you do something similar to install the speed sensor? I never saw any details on how other people installed theirs so I had to figure it out on my own.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842I installed to read from the rotor screws, same as you did, but i managed to use only the hardware provided with the gauge, no customization needed, the fit was really tight tho, i can send you pictures if you want
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 I installed the sensor to pick up the signal from the rotor screws as you did, buy i installed directly with the hardware provided with the gauge, no personalization needed, i will gladly send you picture if you want
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 The only thing i need to do is to drill a hole on the oil pan banjo screw that conects the inlet of the radiator (i have to figure it out wich is the inlet and wich the return) and tap it to screw the temp sensor. Doing that i will be using 100% of the gauge features. For me the 10k limit of the rpm is plentiful since this are old engines so that is the limit of i want to go on the rpms, if the gauge hits 10k i shift no mater what
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 The mounting is almost the same as yours but using only the hardware provided with the gauge, no custom parts. I can gladly send you pictures, the only disadvantage is that the pickup sensor align in the center of the rotor screw so i have to set up as 10 pick up points instead of 5. Another difference on ours installations is that i pick up the rpm signal directly from the "tachometer" labeled pin on the CDI and works like a charm
❤hes back
Has your bike still got rubber bushes mounting the handlebar plate? I found mine got very loose and it became difficult to ride in crosswinds as it felt like a flat front tyre due to the bars having so much play in them. Original bushes are difficult to find and were over $50 each x8, so I researched making some and then found a product zeta rubber killers, they are machined alloy cones that replace the 8 rubber bushes and spacers, use the same 4 bolts and make the steering rock solid and precise. The ones for the DRZ400 also fit the Katana, vibration hasn't been a problem. I removed the bar weights and put a thick oring same diameter as the bolt and when reinstalled that isolates the weight from the bar enough to make them work as dampers.
I’ve heard of people using solid metal ones but I’ve still got the original rubber. I haven’t had any issues with mine yet and they still feel great.
BRUHHH SAME BIKE, SAME ENGINE, AND SAME METER you are my brother now
I gotta feeling I’d like your bike, lol. Did you setup the fuel gauge or temp sensor on it?
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 not the temp sensor as it would require some drilling in the engine and cause resources in my country its near impossible, but fuel gauge yes, its street fighter and cafe combo, once i bought the speedo, i changed the fuel tank with the one that had gauge system in it. And ive also spent shit ton of money on like you have hahaha
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 its the same katana 750 engine, chassis is of 1982 suzuki gs 550, r6 back suspension and swingarm, front shocks of katana.
So we are three brothers with a 750 and KOSO TNT-04 gauges lol
@@francobaleani5973 it looks soo good out of all those koso speedos
How many miles does your bike have?
I’m not sure. The tach said around 30k when I got it but the engine screamed 130k. I’ve also rebuilt it to the point where just saying mileage doesn’t really do it justice.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 fair enough, my 91 has 31,xxx on it and got it non running was just wondering what the ball park mileage would be to start worrying lmao
Do you have any videos on older carbs? I got a 89 600 aswell and the carbs are way more compleat on that bike than the 91 so I was gonna steal um for the 91 but can’t find anything useful
Sorry, I do not. Just have videos on this bike. I believe the 89-98 should have the same carbs but the 600 is a little different. There are also a few odd variations to them such as the California model.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 yeah I started figuring most the things out got confused on it being a dual outlet petcock when most all outhers are a single so that was one of my big things that confused me a big bit think I got that figured out now luckily, and one more question if you got a second, so where my throttle cable screws onto my carb that mount is compleatly blown out, any ideas on fixing it or at least just making it work without having to get a new #3 carb and re sinking all of um and all that
@@jakobrandolph3126 I really should make a video about this. I had the same issue right when I got my bike and had to fabricate a part for it to function. I think I showed it in my carb video actually. Just checked and it’s at 2:21 in it
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 perfect thank you so much, your a huge help
Got some carb clean in my eyes a few time yesterday, and lemme tell ya your not wrong I really regret it😂😂
Shits crazy helpful I appreciate you making these videos just bought a 91 and it’s so hard to find anything anywhere
Wow
Suzuki bandit engine locks same. Thanks.
Hey brother! Just swapped my 2006 Katana 750 with a GSXR1100 1988 motor, just FYI it fits perfect without having to grind the frame if this ever interests you :) Cheers
I’ve seen people do similar things with bandit 1200 engines online before. In hindsight I wish I did this instead of rebuilding my engine to the extent I had as it would have been cheeper and had better performance.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 1 thing i did and you could is put a turbo on it, easy performance and since you rebuilded the engine you know it wont blow up... Put a cheap 21mm on it and double the horsepower instantly
@@theointechs that sounds awesome but I’m in flight school so don’t have the time or money. Hit something on the highway 2 weeks ago and am replacing the chain, sprockets, and chain dampener as is right now. Just had my chain flaring tool, flare rather than my master link too, lol.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Yeah i get it , for me it was more of a work around because i live in Quebec Canada and sports bikes cost 3k$ to register so swapping the motor is a sleeper 500$ to register bike
Hi! nice explained video! Could you tell me the wire size nedded for the battery - relay - coils circuit? Thanks!
I can’t remember for sure. The original harness uses quite thin wires. I believe they might have been 12 or 14. That being said I always used a slightly thicker gauge everywhere I had to rewire which was most of the harness because of rodent damage. I believe I was using mostly 8 and or 10 for everything I redid. The main thing when choosing wire sizes for this is to not go thinner. I like to go 1-2 sizes thicker at most if I think the wires are too thin for long term durability.
Do you have a video on removing the carbs from the bike? If so, do you have a link?
czcams.com/video/vRSC20vEUkQ/video.htmlsi=lCir4fdD-ugyccxv
Is it necessary to remove carbs to do this job?
Not at all. I was adjusting the valves in this video after reassembling the engine so I have lots of unnecessary things off.
Thanks for making this video. My 93 started with a small leak from a cracked hose to dumping fuel when I started it yesterday morning. I have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to bikes so it's nice to have this for reference before I start removing the tank to replace all of these lines.
Coming back to this video after finally getting to work on it. Notes for anyone coming in behind me: tank doesn't need to be drained to take off. Also notes for anyone coming in behind me: reconnect the vacuum line to the back of the petcock after you do this :')
Would these cause my bike to have a super high idle? Just rebuilt the carbs (bike didnt run before) and changed spark plugs. Boots were super stiff re-installing the carbs and now it idles around 6k rpm no matter how much i mess with the idle screw
No, an airleak will cause fluctuations in high RPM. Not a constantly high rpm. I think your throttle cable is stuck on one of the intake boot clamps though keeping your throttle stuck open.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 ok ill look into that tonight i ordered the boots regardless. I also do not have an idle air adjuster. My rebuild kit came with them but where all the videos show it is have a brass peice with no flathead shop just a small hole in the center?
@@TooLowTony you don’t see that too often anymore. The brass piece is a plug that prevents people from adjusting the fuel air mix. It’s 2.5 turns out from bottomed out stock for emission purposes which is usually slightly lean. The first thing everyone does is drill out those brass plugs to gain access. Also they don’t adjust the air, they adjust the fuel in the katana.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Swapped back to factory jets and found/replaced the afr adjuster then set it to factory settings and it works great
@@TooLowTony It’s incredibly common to get the incorrect sized jets on eBay so always avoid carb rebuild kits on there.
Thanks for sharing!
Hey what carb sync tool do you have? Just curious as you said some are pretty bad. Thanks
I don’t use a tool, I just bench sync like in the video.
Just a heads up for people confused about jet size being different in carb #3. This is only for the 750cc katana. the 600cc 90-97 has all the same jets. The 88-89 katana has two seperate jets in two carbs.
Bless you 💙
I am trying to rebuild a set of 96 carbs I bought on ebay to put on my 88 katana 600. Everything went pretty well during disassembly, however I got the one idle set screw (the pointy one with the small flat metal washer, spring and small rubber o ring) loose, however it doesn't thread all the way out to where I can get a grip on it and pull it out like the other 3 does. I got it loose and it turns in till it bottoms out and stops and also turns out till the end of the screw is about 3mm from coming out end of carb housing. I have tried blowing air in various orifices to push it out to no luck. I tried lightly prying it out. The only thing I can think of is somehow the screw is broken in half and for some reason the part with the flat head on it, won't back all the way out possibly due to how its broken. Am I SOL with this or is there something I can try to get it out. I saw where people used screw extractors to get a stripped jet out, however mine isn't stripped (atleasst not at the end) What I need is something that can pull it out as I spin it. It does turn in and out and move up and down, just doesn't come out enough to grab. Seems like something is maybe holding it in still. Any ideas.
also where did you get the manual you are using in this video?
@@TheHeadlessHorseman the screw you are referring to is not an idle screw. It is a fuel/air mix screw that meters how much fuel goes into the carb. I would first tighten it down and check the threads that are visible for any damage. Then I would add some kind of penetrating oil that could help clean them out. Then I would stand the carb up right (so gravity helps) while loosening the screw and simultaneously tapping the side lightly to possibly unjam it (I’d probably use the rear of a screwdriver). Then I would tighten and loosen the screw over and over to move any debris that may be stuck in the threads and then repeat everything over and over again a few times. I would also check the housing for any cracks that could indicate the tube is no longer centered (a crack could make it no longer centered and make it impossible for it to come out unless you bent/pushed it back together properly. If all this failed I hate to say it but I’d then drill it out like any other screw but very very delicately. My manual is a Haynes shop manual I found online a few years ago but I cannot remember from where.
@@suzukikatanamechanic5842 Thank you so much for the detailed response. I will give this a shot when I have free time and report back. I don't think the screw is stuck on anything unless its just corroded in place. I can literally spin the screw counterclockwise a thousand times and it won't advance any further out. But it will screw in just fine and get tight.
Thanks, i sprayed wd40, letting it soak for 25 minutes, and then tapped on carb body and out it came. @suzukikatanamechanic5842
Please, help me with the ignition coil cables order. I take off the cables, but, I can't remember the order of instalation. I need the instructions for reassembly them. May you make a video showing how to connect the cables between coils and spark plugs, or indicate me a video already have made about that?
I know for sure I showed that in one of my videos. I think it was at the end of my engine reassembly one. You might also be interested in my coil relay mod video.
Hey, man. I got a question for you. Can I reach out to you personally somehow? I have a concern about oil coming into my signal generator case from the bearing behind where you manually turn the engine over. I think this is normal due to the part needing to be lubricated, but I am not sure. Would I be able to show you a video of my problem just to look at it? Maybe you'd be able to address it in a video as well? I can't find any documentation from Suzuki regarding this feature/error. Is there an email of yours I can reach out to? Edit: By the way, thank you for already sharing as much as you have. It has been a lifesaver. This issue is just beyond my and the scope of your current videos. I'm really lost. I've already taken apart part of the engine and put it back together. This oil issue has just been a concern of mine that I haven't been able to get around to yet.
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