Great video, love the video at high speeds to show actual vibration. A few things to add to make the job more complete. 1. Wire brush the tabs that hold the U-Joint caps on the rear yoke. Especially where they contact the U-Joint caps. 2. I always lightly center punch the shaft and yoke in the rear to mark the orientation (this is so when the next guy forgets to:). A center punch mark won't wipe or wash off. 3. This is a big one that I never knew. "Seat" the U-Joint caps. Yes "seat" them. I spotted it in a video and it is true. After you press in the caps, try to rotate the U-Joint. If it moves but is tight (and most of the time it is) take an impact socket that fits inside the yoke opening for the cap. Give it a quick wrap with a hammer. Do this on both caps. This will "seat" the cap and then the joint should move freely.
Here in Boise you can get anywhere in the valley pretty easily without driving on the highway. That’s been my fix for my 96 jimmy for a few years now. Looks like I’m going to be replacing a u-joint here soon. Hopefully I’ll be able to get back on the highway again this summer.
For those watching this video in fall 2020. I just had my 2017 Chevy Colorado serviced to repair the Chevy shutter. All that is required is a complete transmission flush. They remove all of the old fluid and replace it with a new Mobile 1 fluid. The old fluid was being corrupted with water moisture that somehow gets into the closed system. The service bulletin number is 18-NA-355. Seems to have solved the problem.
i have a suzuki sx4 that has simular problem. Virbation that is speed dependent .... i had the cv changed out and later front bearing.... but prob didnt go away ...had i watched this video i wouldve solved my vibration issue. thanks awsome video...
One thing I have always done is tap the driveshaft on both sides with a hammer after putting in both clips to help center up the cups and remove any bind they might be in from the pressing.
I had a vibration after replacing U joints on my '02 Silverado. I later found that i had a poorly made yoke from factory. The ears of the yoke were different thickness from one side to the other causing the shaft to be off center. I had to get a new yoke and have the drive shaft balanced but all was good after that.
One thing I like to do, when installing new u-joints, the caps not being pressed into the driveshaft I like to put a piece of tape around them so I don't have to worry about them falling out while installing. Then take the tape off when installing onto the pinion yoke.
Ironically my U Joint went out on my truck as i went to merge on the highway a couple nights ago and put a hole in my fuel tank. Fun night that was. Not.
Co-worker had that happen on his Peterbilt, right after it came out of the shop from having some work done. He made it less than 45min up the road, and it let go at the front diff, because the mechanic hadn't torqued down the bolt that holds the yoke on the drive pinion at the front diff. When the yoke let go, the shaft thrashed around and tore open both his fuel tanks. The PB dealership had to come good for both saddle tanks, a yoke and pinion at the diff, and a new shaft, plus the big fat fine the company got for the fuel spill. I can't remember, but I think there was a fight over the tow bill. And the co-worker was out of work for a week and a half while the parts were rounded up and installed. Last thing I heard over that, that particular mechanic was let go. The fuel spill fine itself was ten grand, no idea how much the cleanup was, and I didn't have the heart to ask too many questions so I never found out how much the damage was to his truck in terms of dollar figure.
One more thing to add whenever I do a drive shaft I always take it to a speed shop that specializes in drive shafts and rear end and had the shaft balanced makes a big difference especially on aluminum they true it and balance it makes a last a lot longer and a lot smoother
Thanks for the video. Great info, I have been chasing this issue with my Dodge 1500 for months now. Dealer can't figure it out. tires have been balanced all new steering components and problem persist. I suspect that's the only thing left to check and no one has bothered to
My 2011 Ford Escape would vibrate violently at just under 100 mph, I would hear a thump than it would settle down, I’m suspecting a bad U-Joint like this! Nice video! :-)
I have a Chevy G20 van that I've been restoring with moog steering parts and acdelco for everything else. I see on RockAuto they have the GM genuine u-joints and also they have Moog u-joints. I can't tell from the pictures if the GM ones are greaseable. Are you aware if there's a big difference in the quality between the two? I'm leaning more towards the GM genuine u-joints but I'm not sure if the Moog is more of an upgraded version and I know for a fact that it's greasable.
Thank you. My 99 jeep cherokee 4wd has a vibe that starts at 75mph and gets worse as you go up from there. I’ve grabbed the u-joints before, but didn’t see or feel play. I have new, balanced tires, so they’re not the culprits.
@@RideAcrossTheRiver believe it or not, I haven’t found out the culprit yet. It has cracked the stock tranny(replaced with ng3550), then destroyed the 242(put orig 231 back in), even though I put a new Tom Woods driveshaft on the rear. I have a new TW front shaft ready to go on, but none is on atm. I suspect the rear pinion is the culprit and have an eaton trutrack and new 3.55s to go on. I can’t believe an out of balance wheel would destroy a tranny and xfer case.
@@grad0n Okay, you have a major issue more than mine. I just feel a massage-chair thrum in my Escape at highway speed. No severe shake like you describe. Hope thats fixed for you soon.
My car had a vibration exactly between 120 and 130 km/h (75 and 80 mi/h), which was annoying as those two numbers are common speed limits on the highways where I live. Then I went and changed the timing belt (i4 interference engine), which required removing one of the motor mounts. I had marked the mount in order to put it back where it was, but when I went to do so I noticed I really had to put a lot of force against the engine to push it back into its previous position. So I fastened the motor mount in what seemed like the right position instead. No more vibration :) I went back later with a fabricobbled caliper to check the engine position and it was dead on. I still have no clue how it got moved out of position by about 2.5 cm / 1 inch, though I suppose it might have something to do with the previous owner driving into things on a regular basis.
I liked the way you put the ujoint back togeather, the bottom was good but when you went to push the top one in you couldn't keep the ujoint pressed togeather like the first one and the knocking from that impact might make those needle bearings come out
Good video thank you. I have. 2016 Lincoln MKZ and I’ve had a problem with vibration since I had it. Both the dealers bought it from and the Lincoln dealer both said it was the wheels. So I had the wheels straightened and just bought new tires all around and still have vibrating from the rear. Feel it in my lower back. It’s front wheel drive so you have any idea what it could be?? Thank you
I just got the same problem on my Chevy Tahoe 2002 but my U joints are so rusted that there’s zero play or movement, I even tried moving them with a pry bar, any takers ?
Mine vibrates above 35mph, dosnt vibrate when braking or accelerating quickly.only when coasting above 35 and get worse the faster you go. Driveshaft? Orrr any other opinions?
You might can help me. My 2005 gmc sierra after a while driving start a vibration but if I stop and re-start driving no more vibration for lot of time, vibration comes randomly not at determinated speed. Normally after 60mph. When the vibration starts I hit the brakes the feel like stuck in. I don't know because I already replace driveshaft, u-joints, bearing.
I got a Chevy 1500 stepside single cab I added a 5 inch lift kit with 22x12 rims with 33s and it’s started to shake when I reach 70 sooo I added new upper control arms and ball joints and it still shake but idk what to do cause whenever I had the lift I had 33s muddtires and it didn’t shake Soo I think it’s the rims or something I need help at this point any advice
Yes my Buick does the same thing.... But I just think I want new drive shaft. Some one..."me and my Friend"...lol put a turbo 400 in it and did the best we could to cut and modified 3 different drive shafts .... The front spline from the 1970 Oldsmobile.... A drive shaft off a 67chevy short bed and the origin tail off the original 86 Buick regal... The vibration is minor... But its off to the machine shop when I get off the road!
So what about an awd suburban? Mine shakes an moans at highway speeds, jus replaced rotors pads an wheel bearings up front, haven't done the cv shafts yet or the u joints on the front driveshaft.
Should you run your vehicle like that with the rear axle hanging? Doesn't that change the angle of the driveshaft? Also, would it be a good idea to replace the transmission extension housing seal while you have your driveshaft out? Or is that one of those things that if it ain't broke don't fix it? My mechanic did not change the seal and now it leaks and I have to have him remove the driveshaft again and replace the seal so it will cost me more money now.
I’ve replaced my entire from brake system, pitman arm and idler arm, I’ve gotten the wheels balanced and checked for uneven tire thread but I have yet to check the u joint from yolk to trans. The rear u joint I’ve replaced recently. Hopefully this fixes my NBS Silverado.
Think that bad axle bearings can cause a vibration? Ive replaced the whole front end and front end vibration is gone. Changed all 3 u joints amd the carrier bearing still vibrates. Ive had 3 different sets of wheels/tires. Feel the vibration mainly in the rear. Also it hapens at exactly 20mph and 40-45mph, during these speeds it feels more like a hop or like if I was driving on really smooth speed bumps one after another. As well as 70+ but here its more like a constant vibration not bumpy. I also chamged my rotors thinking that was the problem but it dident fix it.
I have the same year truck but 4x4. Sometimes after using 4hi. The next day or a couple days after the truck will start in 4 low by it self. And seem to slip pretty bad while in 4 low.. Shifting into 4 hi it is fine. And it shifts back into 2ed fine. Any ideas?
Interesting... The first place I would check is the 4WD selector switch. Verify the vehicle is in 2WD, then unplug the switch and leave it unplugged. If the truck never shifts back into 4WD low, I would start with replacing the switch. If it's slipping, start by checking the transfer case fluid level and changing/topping off as needed.
Great video, love the video at high speeds to show actual vibration. A few things to add to make the job more complete.
1. Wire brush the tabs that hold the U-Joint caps on the rear yoke. Especially where they contact the U-Joint caps.
2. I always lightly center punch the shaft and yoke in the rear to mark the orientation (this is so when the next guy forgets to:). A center punch mark won't wipe or wash off.
3. This is a big one that I never knew. "Seat" the U-Joint caps. Yes "seat" them. I spotted it in a video and it is true. After you press in the caps, try to rotate the U-Joint. If it moves but is tight (and most of the time it is) take an impact socket that fits inside the yoke opening for the cap. Give it a quick wrap with a hammer. Do this on both caps. This will "seat" the cap and then the joint should move freely.
Nice!!!!
Sometimes vibrations are really tricky to diagnose. Nice job Daniel! -Glen
226k and still going. Gotta love your suburban!
Yeah the older GM cars were better than the new ones
Probably the best auto repair video I've seen on the tubes. Detailed but to the point. 👍 well done.
very helpful! it is very hard to find quality detail like this that isn't complete lies and vague. much appreciated brother
I read the title and thought this
Variation at highway speeds? Here's how to fix... go slower. Problem solved. Great video, keep up the great work!
Evan Morin that’s definitely an easier fix 😂
Here in Boise you can get anywhere in the valley pretty easily without driving on the highway. That’s been my fix for my 96 jimmy for a few years now. Looks like I’m going to be replacing a u-joint here soon. Hopefully I’ll be able to get back on the highway again this summer.
I can watch these videos all day
Best detail, right to the point video on youtube. Very well done.
Keep up the great work Daniel
For those watching this video in fall 2020. I just had my 2017 Chevy Colorado serviced to repair the Chevy shutter. All that is required is a complete transmission flush. They remove all of the old fluid and replace it with a new Mobile 1 fluid. The old fluid was being corrupted with water moisture that somehow gets into the closed system. The service bulletin number is 18-NA-355. Seems to have solved the problem.
Very nicely done. Rarely a need to replace everything.
Well done, Daniel. Great content and editing.
Will R Long time no see! 😂
Another great video Daniel!
Following you on tik tok😁
Awesome. I've changed a few u joints and always fight them. That press style c clamp definitely made light work of this job. Thanks for sharing
MrDavidelliottjr the U joints in the aluminum driveshafts seem to be a little more of a bitch to press than the steel ones.
Thank you. Your way to explain is very clear.
i have a suzuki sx4 that has simular problem. Virbation that is speed dependent .... i had the cv changed out and later front bearing.... but prob didnt go away ...had i watched this video i wouldve solved my vibration issue. thanks awsome video...
Thanks for the video Daniel. Had exact issue in Tacoma
Well done, Daniel.
One thing I have always done is tap the driveshaft on both sides with a hammer after putting in both clips to help center up the cups and remove any bind they might be in from the pressing.
Nice job on the video very informative very similar to Chris fix videos 👍🏼
Thanks so much for the lesson very well explained
Very informative video. Thx for posting.
I had a vibration after replacing U joints on my '02 Silverado. I later found that i had a poorly made yoke from factory. The ears of the yoke were different thickness from one side to the other causing the shaft to be off center. I had to get a new yoke and have the drive shaft balanced but all was good after that.
Great job!! Done many of these myself!!!
Great video. This may be the solution I have looking for! Thanks
I hope one days my channel gets this big💪🏻 keep it up bother
One thing I like to do, when installing new u-joints, the caps not being pressed into the driveshaft I like to put a piece of tape around them so I don't have to worry about them falling out while installing. Then take the tape off when installing onto the pinion yoke.
Great video Dan!
I will check my suburban I got the same problem right now thanks for your help
Thanks bro ,had the same problem I changed the drive shaft but not the ujoints 👍
Ironically my U Joint went out on my truck as i went to merge on the highway a couple nights ago and put a hole in my fuel tank. Fun night that was. Not.
Co-worker had that happen on his Peterbilt, right after it came out of the shop from having some work done. He made it less than 45min up the road, and it let go at the front diff, because the mechanic hadn't torqued down the bolt that holds the yoke on the drive pinion at the front diff. When the yoke let go, the shaft thrashed around and tore open both his fuel tanks. The PB dealership had to come good for both saddle tanks, a yoke and pinion at the diff, and a new shaft, plus the big fat fine the company got for the fuel spill. I can't remember, but I think there was a fight over the tow bill. And the co-worker was out of work for a week and a half while the parts were rounded up and installed. Last thing I heard over that, that particular mechanic was let go. The fuel spill fine itself was ten grand, no idea how much the cleanup was, and I didn't have the heart to ask too many questions so I never found out how much the damage was to his truck in terms of dollar figure.
Excellent video on the subject.
Ima get that checked my Prius shakes when I go over 180
Pfft. Who drives a Prius!?
Ronald T just look left , and right when you are on the road , and you find out how many people do . 😃🤭🥴
An prius cant even go 180 mph
Ronald T nothing wrong woth prius
Felipe Tafolla maybe 80 mph.
Thanks D, excellent tutorial.
Yeah, happy to see a new useful tutorial of yours !
One more thing to add whenever I do a drive shaft I always take it to a speed shop that specializes in drive shafts and rear end and had the shaft balanced makes a big difference especially on aluminum they true it and balance it makes a last a lot longer and a lot smoother
Thanks for the video. Great info, I have been chasing this issue with my Dodge 1500 for months now. Dealer can't figure it out. tires have been balanced all new steering components and problem persist. I suspect that's the only thing left to check and no one has bothered to
We're u able to fix the problem with this ?
My 2011 Ford Escape would vibrate violently at just under 100 mph, I would hear a thump than it would settle down, I’m suspecting a bad U-Joint like this!
Nice video! :-)
Did you fix it?
I have a Chevy G20 van that I've been restoring with moog steering parts and acdelco for everything else. I see on RockAuto they have the GM genuine u-joints and also they have Moog u-joints. I can't tell from the pictures if the GM ones are greaseable. Are you aware if there's a big difference in the quality between the two? I'm leaning more towards the GM genuine u-joints but I'm not sure if the Moog is more of an upgraded version and I know for a fact that it's greasable.
Good job with the new videos
awesome job and very explainable
Lubed for life stuff, gotta love it😤
Wow you are a very good explainer
Very good video keep up the good work
Great thanks! I felt scared watching thinking it's going to break and come through my phone haha
chevy driveshaft video huh? Very nice :) i got one of those too!
Good stuff thank you so much for the video!
Great video
Thank you. My 99 jeep cherokee 4wd has a vibe that starts at 75mph and gets worse as you go up from there. I’ve grabbed the u-joints before, but didn’t see or feel play. I have new, balanced tires, so they’re not the culprits.
You find out what it was ?
I want to know too!
@@RideAcrossTheRiver believe it or not, I haven’t found out the culprit yet. It has cracked the stock tranny(replaced with ng3550), then destroyed the 242(put orig 231 back in), even though I put a new Tom Woods driveshaft on the rear. I have a new TW front shaft ready to go on, but none is on atm. I suspect the rear pinion is the culprit and have an eaton trutrack and new 3.55s to go on. I can’t believe an out of balance wheel would destroy a tranny and xfer case.
@@grad0n Okay, you have a major issue more than mine. I just feel a massage-chair thrum in my Escape at highway speed. No severe shake like you describe. Hope thats fixed for you soon.
Curious if you ever figured out your problem? I have the same problem.
Cool bean man that video is very helpful
Thanks for information very nice information give you thanks once again
such videos shall be used in the future for training sister bluebird
What kind of ball joint press do you have? Thanks, love the video
Good explanation
Great Video where did you get the car lift and what's the name of it?
You just won a new subscriber 👌 thank you for video
Nice job!!
Good Job !
Great great video thank you.so much
smart man. blessing.
Really good video
The floor jack/lift that you have. How do you like it and where did you get it?
Great job
Well done👍
My car had a vibration exactly between 120 and 130 km/h (75 and 80 mi/h), which was annoying as those two numbers are common speed limits on the highways where I live. Then I went and changed the timing belt (i4 interference engine), which required removing one of the motor mounts. I had marked the mount in order to put it back where it was, but when I went to do so I noticed I really had to put a lot of force against the engine to push it back into its previous position. So I fastened the motor mount in what seemed like the right position instead. No more vibration :) I went back later with a fabricobbled caliper to check the engine position and it was dead on. I still have no clue how it got moved out of position by about 2.5 cm / 1 inch, though I suppose it might have something to do with the previous owner driving into things on a regular basis.
I liked the way you put the ujoint back togeather, the bottom was good but when you went to push the top one in you couldn't keep the ujoint pressed togeather like the first one and the knocking from that impact might make those needle bearings come out
Weber Auto has a great video series on U-joint replacement.
Good video thank you. I have. 2016 Lincoln MKZ and I’ve had a problem with vibration since I had it. Both the dealers bought it from and the Lincoln dealer both said it was the wheels. So I had the wheels straightened and just bought new tires all around and still have vibrating from the rear. Feel it in my lower back. It’s front wheel drive so you have any idea what it could be?? Thank you
Out of balance CV joints???
Nice Info Vid Thanks
GMManiac’s dad has a 2004 Chevrolet Suburban Z71 4WD in red that he bought in November of 2006
Approximately how much for that style of lift
Yep them dam u-joints will do that good job 👍 brother
can you tell me the brand and model of your ball joint tool you use?
Good job, two bad thaw Slow-Mo guys weren't your neighbors, they could have come by.
I have this issue on my 2003 Ford Explorer I wonder if this is the issue.
I just got the same problem on my Chevy Tahoe 2002 but my U joints are so rusted that there’s zero play or movement, I even tried moving them with a pry bar, any takers ?
Excellent thank u
Mine vibrates above 35mph, dosnt vibrate when braking or accelerating quickly.only when coasting above 35 and get worse the faster you go. Driveshaft? Orrr any other opinions?
yea, safety first!
Ya my ford ranger was vibrating like rumble strip sounds at 45+ mph . It was a ball joint on the upper control arm. Easy fix ..
You might can help me. My 2005 gmc sierra after a while driving start a vibration but if I stop and re-start driving no more vibration for lot of time, vibration comes randomly not at determinated speed. Normally after 60mph. When the vibration starts I hit the brakes the feel like stuck in.
I don't know because I already replace driveshaft, u-joints, bearing.
*Nice!, although would’ve loved to have seen it spin with the new U-Joint*
I kind of figured it was gonna be a U-joint problem my Dodge 4x4 started vibrating at 65 MPH
Have you ever took it to dirt roads and probably went a lil fast?
Would that be the same problem in a Eddie Bower Ford Explorer at 55mph and above and when coasting? Vibration that is.
I have a 2002 Chevrolet Suburban Z71 4WD In white and bought it in May of 2003
I got a Chevy 1500 stepside single cab I added a 5 inch lift kit with 22x12 rims with 33s and it’s started to shake when I reach 70 sooo I added new upper control arms and ball joints and it still shake but idk what to do cause whenever I had the lift I had 33s muddtires and it didn’t shake Soo I think it’s the rims or something I need help at this point any advice
How many miles where on the truck/climate snow, and ice. Desert ?
Yes my Buick does the same thing.... But I just think I want new drive shaft. Some one..."me and my Friend"...lol put a turbo 400 in it and did the best we could to cut and modified 3 different drive shafts .... The front spline from the 1970 Oldsmobile.... A drive shaft off a 67chevy short bed and the origin tail off the original 86 Buick regal... The vibration is minor... But its off to the machine shop when I get off the road!
So what about an awd suburban? Mine shakes an moans at highway speeds, jus replaced rotors pads an wheel bearings up front, haven't done the cv shafts yet or the u joints on the front driveshaft.
Hey Daniel. My 2017 Dodge Ram 1500 Crew Cab . Passenger seat vibrates, while going 65 or faster. Why is that?
Should you run your vehicle like that with the rear axle hanging? Doesn't that change the angle of the driveshaft?
Also, would it be a good idea to replace the transmission extension housing seal while you have your driveshaft out? Or is that one of those things that if it ain't broke don't fix it? My mechanic did not change the seal and now it leaks and I have to have him remove the driveshaft again and replace the seal so it will cost me more money now.
Perfect 🖒
Nice Vid! My 07 Yukon Denali Shakes around 70 Mph also! Hope it's the Same issue!
WAS IT THIS???
I’ve replaced my entire from brake system, pitman arm and idler arm, I’ve gotten the wheels balanced and checked for uneven tire thread but I have yet to check the u joint from yolk to trans. The rear u joint I’ve replaced recently. Hopefully this fixes my NBS Silverado.
Ok I need one of those lifts where'd ya get it?
I beliebe to have the same problem exactly. But the mechanic suggested to get a new 3 piece centre drive shaft on my mazda cx9 2008.
Think that bad axle bearings can cause a vibration? Ive replaced the whole front end and front end vibration is gone. Changed all 3 u joints amd the carrier bearing still vibrates. Ive had 3 different sets of wheels/tires. Feel the vibration mainly in the rear. Also it hapens at exactly 20mph and 40-45mph, during these speeds it feels more like a hop or like if I was driving on really smooth speed bumps one after another. As well as 70+ but here its more like a constant vibration not bumpy. I also chamged my rotors thinking that was the problem but it dident fix it.
My sierra is doing the same thing. did you happen to find the cause of the problem?
I have the same year truck but 4x4. Sometimes after using 4hi. The next day or a couple days after the truck will start in 4 low by it self. And seem to slip pretty bad while in 4 low.. Shifting into 4 hi it is fine. And it shifts back into 2ed fine. Any ideas?
Interesting... The first place I would check is the 4WD selector switch. Verify the vehicle is in 2WD, then unplug the switch and leave it unplugged. If the truck never shifts back into 4WD low, I would start with replacing the switch. If it's slipping, start by checking the transfer case fluid level and changing/topping off as needed.
What frequency range would this be? Say 36 to 43 Hz?
If the DIC says Service Stability on a 2006 Suburban, what's usually the problem?