HOW TO... Gauge Brickwork | BRICKLAYING AUSTRALIA
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- čas přidán 5. 05. 2022
- Welcome to our 5th and most demanded 'How To...' episode in our series! This skill really comes down to the individual and their perception in what gauge they use. In saying that, we show the way we do it here and give you an idea on what the process is about in setting up the gauges for the brickwork.
As mentioned above, this skill is dependant on the individual, so view this with an open mind and best of luck when gauging your brickwork! If you are new to the channel, we have other videos in this series that you can learn from in our playlist that we've made.
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You're a good teacher. You explain stuff well.
Perfectly explained ty! Good luck on the double keep us posted👍
Great stuff..This is more of what is needed..Quality content
Excellent, thank you!
Awesome demo clear as love your videos cheers💪👏
That’s a good way of doing it. Might give it a go
Excelente video 👍 👏 saludos desde chile 💯 🇨🇱
Brilliant explanation Ty, thanks for that and have fun with the double. 😊
Cheers János! More on that double coming soon!
Great stuff 😮
thanks man appreciated
Thank you❤
Good explanation
Good vid mate 👍
👍great Ty thanks an other great video 🙂
Nice work
Caption explaining Clint's yell was great 😆
Always mark from the top plate (generally they make them level throughout the house) 240mm drop (fascia) and that will be the top of your brickwork, then from that marking use the gauge rod to drop down and continue gauging with whatever best fits.
Hi mate. Do you set gauging first or set profile first ?
@@kamalthakur2040mate, late reply but always set up your profile first, then with gauging you got two options, you either gauge to the top of the window (if placing angle bars) or below fascia (240drop) usually from the top plate, if your window heights vary, always have the builder/chippy adjust the heights of the windows to work with your brick gauges, meaning 84-88mm range from one another, the reason I say get the chippy to adjust the windows is because the timber is easier to cut to the mm that to saw a brick to the mm. Additionally if the chippy leaves you about 40mm-50mm (more then the window width 20-25mm either side )of space width wise to shift the windows left or right slightly (work to full or half brick length, the work always looks neater. Best advice as mentioned in the video is to use the gauge tapes, my personal recommendation is the kwikgauge brand, they now also have a 5m tape, slightly smaller and easier to carry than their original 8m tapes.
Thanks heaps mate . Do you have your own business?
@@asifsakhidad . Do you have your own business for brick laying?
I just wanna say ur that u are a professional bricklayer at that young age. Not many ppl can do what u do.
Thanks Morgan!
Nice vid
Mate what a legend! Cheers for that. Just wanna say i was taught u just go from the most occurring window height, go 860 from the top of the window and mark like u did and go from top plate down to that mark and that is ur set datum for around the house. (Probably not as accurate coz ur assuming the top plate is level even tho it should be!) also i was taught to lay 11 bricks out and check what ur overall brick gauge is coz not all bricks work 86 some are smaller and the bed joints will look bigger with a smaller brick or smaller with a bigger brick if u kno what im getting at.
Awesome! Thanks for sharing the way you guys go about it. There are many ways to gauge, thankfully we aren't limited to just one!
Something to remember is the window height measurements are to work gage. The houses i work on are 2150. Divide that by 86 you get 25. So you know 86 is preferred. If you just tried to use 85 because the bricks are 75 you can end up with massive beds or splits somewhere where you wouldn’t need them. Best to check the heights on the plan for different builders
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I think I was confused at first as to why you were doing the datum and then putting the gauge rod below that and then making up what you needed to do below the bottom of the gauge rod. I didn't realise the gauge rod had measurements on each side.... I think I get it now. I just needed a bit more of the 'why'... I've only done clad houses. Would you mind doing a horizontal gauge rod please? Thanks for taking the time to create the video.😊
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Great brother, can you explain the other ways as well like steel fixed and from facia
I would have liked the explanation that there a four sides of a gauge rod. Each side has the height of each brick, plus mortar joints.
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Does that mean below the gauge rod the bricks will run out of level?
86mm gauge is such a strange number! I assume your bricks are bigger over in Aus. Standard is 75mm here including the 10mm bed joint. Good video mate very insightful
76x110x230mm here in Australia, then there is al the block dimensions to remember
@@goldentrowel1968 they are usuallty a bit shorter in length( up to 5mm) trouble between windows if only 3-4 bricks etc. better off leaving gaps either end of window.
Where did you get your microphone for the camera
Hey mate great work bud enjoy this never seen a water level tho first time for everything I guess lol I had a question as I’m thinking of going out on my own and just wanted to get a few pointers do you have a chat link by any chance ? And also is your business a company or you just sole trading ?
We have our Facebook page at 'Bricks by Ty' which you can use! And we are sole trader atm.
Can u do a plan reading video like go through the specs u look at!
Maybe in a future video!
Hello from the UK - Never seen a water level before, pretty clever!
Do you guys work in 86mm measurements? We work with 75mm gauged measurements.
Hey there! Thanks for watching. Yes we gauge off 86mm - that’s a 76mm brick with a 10mm bed which is the standard here in aus.
Please explain how to read house plan 😊
Is this standard. If not, how the infill will happen.
nice vid mate for others . so the windows which are slightly lower ur brickwork will end up slightly higher then them, . The only
one which will finish flush with top of window is the highest one.
Yes that's correct, however during lock up and fix stage, it is easier to lift the windows to the highest window height once brickwork is already complete, rather than the opposite. Windows are not completely fixed into the frames until after brickwork is complete.
okay mate always wondered how that worked, Over here in WA all double brick mainly, we put in all the windows in as we go so normally find highest slab point with a fullheight window and make everything level with that window and all heights to follow that so all windows end up being flush at 28c or whatever it is! 👍
Just work to highest window don't bother with water level chippy can lift the windows up . If they can't get them right why should you have to check fix there work
I would gauge to the nearest windows to the panels your doing not from one corner of the house to the other. they measure off the slab for windows if slab is 20mm out when you get to scaffold and have to hit the window height for lintels and say you have to pick up 20mm or tighten down it stands out a lot if you have to get it in 7-6 courses.
but each to there own
Hey there James, just gathering what you’ve explained. In a situation like that, you could set your datum lower (than what we have shown in the video) to allow for more room to catch window heights with a 20mm difference. In saying that, most windows in the house that we’ve come across should be similar in height so a situation like that is unlikely (or that we haven’t come across yet). Thanks for sharing your point of view in gauging!
@@bricksbyty fair enough mate I’ve done jobs where this has happened to me so I stopped going off the one datum on veneers.
But good video mate all the best with that double.
Carnt u just level off the highest window to get gauge?tia
bro does not meter windows are leveled or not?
So what do you do about the windows being different heights above the datum point? Do you leave gaps under the lintel?
Yes, as the builders generally fit in fills (mostly cement sheet) underneath the lintel.
@@bricksbyty gaps around windows are now covered using angles cut to size by the window manufacturers. Otherwise you have the chippy raise or drop the window to your angle bar height, and you change the slope of your window sills to fill the bottom of the window, it all depends on your builder
Ues laxer levels that easy than water level
if your crew doesn't use a water level how do you transfer that datum point around? I assume measuring down the same datum point from the windows but all windows are slightly different heights
An option from there is to measure from the top plate and then down to the datum point around the entire job. The measurement will obviously be a much bigger number but it can be transferred around the job. The only downside here is relying on the top plate to be 100% level around the house, but crews with only that option do it anyway.
I've just wondered about it as well. There will be a slight gab between lentils on top of lower windows and bricks with 86 guage.
@@bricksbyty so does that mean the gauge from the datum to the window may be slightly different around the house?
As mentioned, it is all dependant on the top plate being 100% level. Even if it isnt, there shouldn't be much of a difference across all the windows.
What problems can occur if brickwork is not correctly gauged?
Good, but always check your brick sizes off several pallets first ,dont assume all bricks are the same size they can range anywhere from 72 mm up to 78 mm in my experience over the years ✌️
Bhai mujhe bhi Bula Le
Australia
What are bricky wages in Australia?
We have a video that you can check out on that topic!
The only time I've ever run into a problem is when the builder lets the gyprockers go first inside. It's rare but some do it. Then you can't adjust windows if you need to. If you ever do one that's already gyprocked, check it works horizontally too and walk away if it doesn't cause your brickwork will look like crap and it won't be your fault.
Definitely makes the job a lot harder...
Pity all the frames are not fitted correct height fro the setting out levelling of house. I believe the brickie should just gauge down from one frame. And bingo !! But I think I see what your doing .irregular heights.
Are u in national bricklayers mate?
Yeah!
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Why don't you get your site supervisor to get the carpenters to laser/water level the widows, so bricks work properly
Metricon doesn't do that unfortunately.
They just chuck the windows in most of the time they're not even plumb we are suippose to check them their excuse is they don't get paid enough to put the windows in actually a joke, we've even had a building manager whos taken over from a supervisor that left them try to blame us for a window being installed in the wrong place after we've bricked up either side of it, which had obviously passed their frame inspection as well so safe to say we're not doing anymore work for them.
How do you gauge 50mm brick?what gauge number should be use to lay 50mm bricks ? Thanks
We call the water level The Cone Of Silence because it never works
7 courses at 86mm gauge is actually 602mm
That's right, we went off the red mark that is the 86 gauge on the gauge tape. Just looks really close to the 600 mark on the tape.
It is actually altered slightly. It is supposed to lose a couple of mm, and be 600 so that brickwork can tie in with blockwork if required.
The millimeters are lost at 257 instead of 258, and 514 instead of 516
سلام آقای مهندس خسته نباشی خداقوت میگم برات،کارت بسیارعالی هست من زیادازنوکارت خوشم میاد،منم یک استادکارهستم مدت زیادسال ساختمانهای کانگریتی درایران افغانستان وپاکستان ساختم وتجربه زیادی دارم درعرسه ساخت وساز خانه مارکت پلهای بزرگ ویلاوهرنودوکان وگدام،من آمادنی به استرالیاهستم فعلایکسال میشه درپاکستان هستم چون هنوزکارهای کیس مادرست نشده،اگرنمبرواتساب هودرابمن بدی ممنون میشم ،تاکه آمدم پیدات کنم باهم هم کارشویم،دوستتدارم ممنون.
Hi Ty you are looking very cute today give Clint a kiss for me.
Wtf is going on, lay the brick