This Lawn Tractor Runs Too Rich - Let's Fix It!
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- čas přidán 19. 06. 2024
- This Lawn Tractor Runs Too Rich - Let's Fix It!
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Dony, I have a question a little off topic from the video. Do you think that it is necessary to soak the foam pre filter (that goes over the air filter) in oil? I can’t think of how that would help anything, seems more like a dirt magnet.
No need to do that.
I always wondered about that. I have a Yamaha portable generator that is recommended to oil the foam filter.
My Husqvarna also recommends lightly oiling the foam pre-filter. It does seem to get dirty quicker, which I guess is a "good thing".
Usually when a video starts with “I have a lawn tractor with a single cylinder Briggs,” things don’t go that well. Elegant diag and repair.
Yes exactly lol
Very thorough explanation and great close-up camera work. Thank you for the video!
I have not had this problem..... yet! One day, when a neighbour brings me a lumpy, smokey tractor, now I'll be ready. Thanks Dony!
Good morning Dony,
An excellent easy to fix video on a stuck choke repair. 👍👍👍👍👍
That’s great that you have carburetors that you can take part of that’s what I would’ve done. Great video as usual.👍
Even a lawn tractor Is richier than me.
Dad?
😂😅
So nice to have parts kicking around 👍 Great tip thanks !
Good DIY. Pretty straight forward. Thanks!
Great tip Dony. Thanks
Awesome fix Don, very straight forward 👍
Glad you made this video on this matter of the choke getting stuck in the carburetor and how you got it running again with the choke not causing it to run Rich
Great video, Thanks!
good job on that fix donyboy73. hope your summer is going well
Crazy busy with repairs!
I bought a Snapper RER with an Intek for a friend. This might come in handy. Thanks
gracias por todos tus videos!
Great video! Simple clear and to the point. You have great teaching skills!
Thank you Sir.
Great video Donald 👍
THANK YOU FOR THE VIDEO
Great repair tips
Excellent diagnostic... I thought it was the linkage too. 😉 Yeah, a light sanding at the base of the choke shaft should do it, but best not to risk a return on the repair ! 😊👍
Good job 👍
I find one of the best thing to free up stuff like this is the red rust check. Very slippery.
Nice video, have a good summer.
Thanks, have a good summer as well!
You did an old video about how 2 cylinder Briggs were shipped with the choke cable inadequately adjusted so it wouldn't close all the way, causing users to have to crank a cold engine a lot longer than they should. I had that problem on my Husqvarna YT 4000.
Nice job, thanks for sharing
The dirt collecting felt or foam collar is likely a necessary evil to prevent engine vacuum from pulling air and dust into the carb arount the choke stem.
Thought to sand it just before you told it so it means I become a better student from hearing you 😊
Oui certainement!
Great video.
TY for Sharing
Just keep it clean and most of the time no problem, but dirt causes it to stick, pull carb and clean it
Good to know, thanks
Great video
One replacement carburetor for my engine similar to that one had that problem and its the little square tap on it the piece you was saying that can get warped
So on my new carb of that piece i worked left to right over an over to make it more looser like the old piece
I could simply cut that stopper piece off of it the engine while running the vibration smoothens that problem out of that piece getting stuck
Then i did have a spare carburetor but i rebuilt it with new insides so i couldn't use nothing off it but sense the piston rings are messed up on it i have been using other parts off the old engine for my other engine and after putting the used coil on i noticed the starter gear making a sound i think the starter is still fine but the little spring under the gear is wearing out finally im just gonna keep using it til it breaks because i have other starters for it and am not planning on replacing parts on the starter because i don't have the right tool to push out the pin that holds the gear on i done it before though.
But before my other flathead briggs flywheel teeth just kept chewing up the starter gear teeth it did metal gear teeth and the plastic gear teeth on the starter an it was the right size ones for that ones flywheel so i kept thinking it had to of originally had a pull cord starter and someone switched the flywheel and thats why it kept chewing those up plus on that flatheads flywheel teeth length were to short that was another reason why it was chewing through starter gears because if the flywheel teeth were longer that wouldn't have happened
Thanks for sharing sir hope all is well there
Dony, you would think that a spring would also attach to it!
Thanks for the video.
The gasoline likely affects plastic over the years I guess. During the video I was thinking why not just sand it...and you said the same at the end of the video 😀
Thks Donny
Interesting.
I have one that seems to be running a bit rich, but not as bad as this one.
Maybe it’s just sticking slightly?
-I’ll have to check that.
Another great video Don. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Have a great weekend.
Great video!
Great Video as always
I've had this problem before. Never noticed anything wrong untill my mower developed belt issues forcing me to shut down the mower mid mow, and discovered it would not start back up until it's left sit for several hours. Eventually I found this happening. Once I fixed the sticking, the restarting problem was fixed as well.
You're impressive.
I've got an old Troy-Bilt mower with that same engine. It is maybe 15 yr. old now and uses some oil but I'm still mowing with it. I wonder if it would be reasonable to try to rebuild the engine, or keep running it until it dies.
'It's not rocket science.'
Dony would say that if he were at NASA.😂
Good 👍
Cool!
I always enjoy watching your videos even though I have not run into any problems like this one "yet" :-) Good to try and keep this in the back of my brain for future reference.Just a quick question. Do all choke butterflies come out that way? just pull them out with a pair of pliers?
Great video mate
Thanks 👍
Always get a 👍
This will come in handy for my snow blower.
But.... I have a Briggs & Stratton Toro mower (150cc engine) with an autochoke. It runs too rich. Please do a video on fixing that.
I hate the throttle plate on those but in actuality they are simple and tend to work well.
i've never run into that problem ... yet . probably just a matter of time though . thanks .
I have this engine on a 2010 Troy-Bilt Pony, 17.5 horse Power Built. Does anyone know if these engines has the problem with the crankshaft decompressor breaking like other Briggs have?
So i took the engine shroud off on my other old flathead i don't have that one anymore i gave it away but took that off to watch how its flywheel kept chewing through the starter gear teeth and seen the problem was the flywheel teeth
HELL YEAH 👍 SPACE SHUTTLE READY TO LAUNCH 🚀
What if you add one more turn/coil to the spring adding extra return force to it. Would that fix it?
It could but it is difficult to turn the spring another turn!
Great video Dony! If choke/butterfly is good and it wont turn over and sputtered like this. What else you think it may be? Spark plug issue?
Try new plug
@@donyboy73 Changed the plug and it still wont turn. Have the sputtered sound but not turning over. I've noticed the carb is spitting out gas when I tried to start it. Not sure if that is normal. Anymore suggestions, greatly appreciated!
Donnie,do you have any videos on huskavarna weed eater carb hi/ lo adjustments? Thank you
I start at 1 1/2 turns out and tweak it from there
Grest as usual. I can Imagine the technicians are working on Rockets everyday i assume they are sure to work on something very difficult😅🤣
Hope so!
Hi Donny! Very good video showing the problem with this machine. I would comment on using WD-40 as a lubricant though. It should never be used on carburetor linkages because it will cause things to stick later. It seems to work well at first but it will not last long. I learned this years ago. WD-40 (water displacement) is good for it's intended purpose and that is to displace water. It is a very poor lubricant though, and not a good rust preventative either. It's good for removing tar from your vehicles. Carb linkages should be dry. Any kind of lubricant will just attrack dirt. I would have used carb cleaner on the sticking parts.
I use wd 40 all the time on mine and soak it good to mine stays clean but i clean my mower off every time im done using it and i respray it all again
I clean my carburetor out all the way and check its gasket inside i check and make sure the carburetor bowl solenoid is working how its supposed to and i spray wd 40 on my spark plug connection and on ground connections battery terminals ignition key switch hole and back of it and in all the wire connections spindle throttle cable so it all gets soaked good
Working on a buddied d100 with what looks like the same motor and carb. It wont start, just keeps cranking. Ive had the carb off and cleaned 3 times, still wont start. Even when using little bursts of starting fluid, it wont run n sounds like a bunch of little back fires. Any ideas? Or videos you have about this you can point me to?
And you've tested your carburetor bowl solenoid plunger and made sure your spark plug wire has a good tight connection an check your vacuum tube/hose you check your valve cover gasket
And make sure theres no gas in the oil
On doing the carburetor did you replace the black gasket in it under the white plastic piece if that gets pinched it wont start
Try putting another coil on
Yes, tested solenoid plunger multiple times, took it out, turned the key, wwas working fine. Changed gasket and oring under the white plastic piece/float bowl base thingy. Spark is good, fuel pump good, everything good. Customer said it was working fine, then running not so great the last time used it, had a major backfire, then wouldnt start or would barely start and backfire. So considering he had a major backfire and i had a pretty good back fire, bunch of little backfires trying to start, i pulled the flywheel bolt and checked to the woodrift key and the key ways lined up, that was good. Checked compression, that was good.
Fixed it. Ended up being the stupid plunger. Figured it couldnt be anything else so tool it out and cut down a bolt. Fired right up. Amazing how the solenoid works when its out of the carb, but wont work while its in the carb. I even had a feeling that was the problem so i had a glass filled with gas that got filled from the countless times taking the solenoid off, and the line from the pump the carb to make sure that was getting good flow. Put the solenoid submerged in the gas glass, and it was working. Worked everytime i checked it, every way i checked it, just not while in the carb. Im just going to cut the plunger shaft and put an inline shut off valve
TK U
👍
have you ever worked on a predator 670 The float keeps sticking in the carb I only run ethanol free and the inside of the carb is always clean when I fix the float I've read other people having this problem
try some seafoam in the gas.
It seems a new Chinese carburetor would be easier if there is a choke issue for most.
You probably have a broken return spring
Excellent job on the fix Donyboy, superb workmanship here, with the proper fix applied, and not going half asked by sanding down plastic. The only thing I would add is, we don't know how long the engine was run in the choked state, as such, it is likely that the sparkplug is carboned up pretty bad. I would replace the sparkplug as well before sending it out.
Sanding the plastic choke shaft works great. I have done this more than once and never had a come back.
@@mikespain8655 Awesome 👌
It’s simply amazing how engine manufacturers have cheapened the engines they sell by using plastic instead of metal knowing full well end users are going to have problems in the future. That choke shaft would have lasted forever if it was still made of metal. All in the name of profit.
That's true but in b&s case it's just the tip of the iceberg. And at the end of that iceberg there is bankruptcy. No more intek for me.
Not brain science or rocket surgery...lol
Cheers from NB
You lost me at 5:54. Maybe a pencil or small screwdriver to use as a pointer to show where the spring is going? I appreciate that you like clear consice videos but your fingers are sort of in the way of showing where the spring ends are suppose to go.
Should have replaced that POS Nikki carb for a Walbro.
Can't get them anymore!
Great video