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John Deere Riding Mower Engine Swap In Less Than An Hour!
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2022
- John Deere Riding Mower Engine Swap In Less Than An Hour!
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Easy to follow and thorough step by step tutorials do it yourself (DIY) videos to help you with your broken lawn and garden equipment including snowblowers and zero turn mowers.
I do my best to teach you how to easily diagnose problems the fastest, quickest and most efficient way with real repairs beyond just replacing a spark plug. These tips are for both the homeowner and shop owner.
Whether it be a handheld, two stroke, two cycle engine like a chainsaw, weed eater, weed wacker, string trimmer, grass trimmer, line trimmer, hedge trimmer, strimmer, brush cutter, leaf blower, or four stroke, four cycle units like a lawnmower, wood splitter, lawn tractor, zero turn mower, snowblower, pressure washer, generator or a ride on mower that needs parts installed or replaced, I’m your go-to guy.
My favorite brands of spark plugs are NGK and Champion and are the ones I recommend.
I’ve been a small engine mechanic for many decades and also run my own repair shop so my videos are loaded with tips and tricks that I have learned and want to share with you. You will also find many tool and product reviews from top brands on my channel as well.
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Watch my video on how to replace a lawn tractor drive belt here;
czcams.com/video/NkY_Tj1xAho/video.html
Yea, I got over ten years on my Deere's Briggs by changing the oil twice every season and checking the level before every mowing.
Great job Dony. As you said do your homework on making sure you get the right engine so you don't have to do alot of parts swapping. Always checking your oil and keeping it full is a lot cheaper than a new engine. Looking forward to the engine teardown.
Very true!
G'day, Don! Nice job! The installation videos are always a great help! By the way... All of us probably own a variety of equipment powered by small gasoline engine. Many of these engines commonly have the screw-in type dipstick which doubles as the oil filler cap. (as a nice per-caution) I always check the oil level on any type of tractor equipment, before starting them up. (this will prevent costly repairs, down time, and the aggravation) Thank you!
Cheers! ❤🛠😊🚜
P.S. I too, am looking forward to seeing the engine tear down video.
That was actually a lot more straightforward than I imagined it would be. With the price of lawn tractors seeming to be going through the roof, I may have to do this someday. Btw, I actually made the mistake you showed @ 11:54 once with my John Deere D100 after just putting on a new belt. I immediately started to mow the lawn and destroyed about a 50-dollar belt, purchased locally at Lowes, in a matter of minutes. Not a good day.
You make it look easy. 🤣 It may not have been bad, but it wouldn't have taken me much, much longer! Great one, Don!
Very helpful! I usually have to watch 5 different videos to get the complete picture. Your video covered everything. It took me way over an hour, though :) the three things I encountered:
1. You need to tighten the clamp on the throttle cable to make it move correctly.
2. I think there is a drain hose that needs to be connected to the carburetor. I pulled off a rubber piece in place to hose there, just like the original engine.
3. The engine takes 1.5 quarts of oil not two. I should’ve checked the owners manual.
And that's real time,quicker then any man around. Good job making it look so easy. 👌
Pretty simple job on that little Deere!! That’s why I like those green and yellow machines, easy to get parts and simple connections👍
When I put a new Briggs engine in my Deere it came with different shaped wire connectors, but the wires were the same colour and quantity as old engine. I took the plastic cover off the top of the old engine to get to wires on stator etc and transferred the wires onto new engine. Worked perfectly. Hope this helps someone.
Easy work for a thorough professional. Very informative, clear, and concise step by step information. Thankyou Sir.
Oh Deere
Maintenance is important, busy lifestyles etc things can happen.
Interesting video for us push mower guys and gals.
I want to say thank you. This is one of the videos that I watched that made it possible for me to figure out how to swap the 12hp Tecumseh on my 1986 Craftsman II out for the 17.5hp Briggs Intek that used to be on our John Deere. I managed to pull it off and post a video on how I did it 10 months ago. That Craftsman fears nothing with that 17.5 bolted to it.
Great video was able to do my first engine swap on my JD mower today thanks to your video. My wiring did not match so I simply removed the harness from the old engine and wired it into the new engine, otherwise pretty much as you described. Had a small issue getting the engine mounting holes to line up had to loosen the muffler so it would slide forward a little to get everything lined up! Keep up the good work!
SUGGESTION from someone else who installed one of these engines: Ordered a B&S 19hp ex 1900 series to replace the 20year old 17hp on my JD L100.
I placed the order on Wednesday morning and engine was delivered to rural Victoria by mid day next day.
After removing the old engine I noticed that the old engine mounting bolts were different to normal bolts,on closer inspection and rolling the bolts in Read more about Ordered a B&S 19hp ex 1900 series my thumb and fingers they had three raised edges,these bolts turned out to be Trilobular bolts and are designed to be self tapping.
This is the method l used to install my new engine.
Leave the engine in the box it was delivered in and turn the box up side down.
Open the bottom exposing the base of the engine.
Get the original mounting bolts but ONLY if they are Trilobular bolts.
Get a socket and hand ratchet and put a bolt in the socket.
Place the tip of the bolt in the engine mounting hole and apply some downward pressure while turning the ratchet,try and keep the bolt straight while turning, it will self align the deeper it go in.
No need to use a cutting compound or back the bolt out as you make a thread in the engine mounting plate, just keep turning the bolt all the way in.
Once all bolt holes are threaded, remove bolts and close up the box.
Turn box up right and lift out engine to install on mower.
By leaving the engine in the box it won’t get damaged while tapping the mounting holes.
Very happy with the engine and had it installed and running in less than 3hours.
Thank you small engine warehouse ,hope this helps.
Ps , l suspect other brands of engines would be using Trilobular mounting bolts as well.
Thanks for the tip. I'm waiting for a new 17hp to be delivered and will positively tap the holes your way using one of the original bolts from the old engine.
I also have a 17hp arriving soon and love the method you described.
Great video Don, you make it look easy. Looking forward to the tear down video of the old engine.
Hey dony, if you're interested, Canadian tire sells a 1L measurement funnel for about $15.
I do a lot of oil changes on small cars that take about 3L and I buy the 5L jugs. Helps to eliminate the guess work/putting in too much oil.
Wait you gave me the idea that old oil bottle can do the same thing lol. Thanks for that. I was gonna buy one but an empty 5L jug should do the same since they have oil level measurements on the side
@@Cobyc5150 the opening of a 5L jug is huge, doubt it would fit in the oil fill hole for starters.
The funnel has a shutoff valve at the bottom so you can actually fill it to the level you want.
@@sparky1044 cool dude, just saying I'm cheap and will do anything to save a buck. I just use a funnel and a tube for hard to reach places and pour a premeasured amount in. My grandpa is a very successful small engine mechanic says the same thing, why spend money on extra stuff when you can get it done now and for cheaper. Although what you say sounds neat, it's got its own audience and that's not me. No need to get all defensive about it lol. I swear can't say a dam thing without someone thinking your challenging them.
@@Cobyc5150 I wasn't feeling challenged, we're cool lol.
I used to cut the bottom off the 1L bottles or Gatorade to use as funnels, I know cheap. I just don't like how soft the plastic is.
The best is a oil pitcher but mine always got full of sawdust and crap.
Great video! Thanks for adding at the end some ballpark prices.
I worked in another field, but half price rule is still good.
Whenever repairs are more, or even close to half a new unit, Make sure customer wants to repair.
Yes, you lose repairs but keep customers.
I have three older cheap MTD riding lawnmowers and they have been good performers for the money; one being 4 wheel steer. I always check the oil before starting, always. I'll be looking for the video on the old engine teardown; maybe it can be rebuilt?
Good tip to add nuts to the top of the engine mount bolts. I once had a snowblower engine vibrate loose. Solved the problem by replacing the bolts with a bit longer ones to give a few more threads, and adding nuts + thread locker.
We have a Murray that has a blind engine mount so you can't use a backing nut. When the original self taping screw stripped out I had to drill & tap a larger hole for a replacement threaded bolt with Locktight. That's how I got 15 years out of a Murray lawn tractor.
Awesome! Another amazing video. Looking forward to the old /thrown piston rod engine teardown. Thanks!!!👍
that video coming next week
You do good work and I'm not trying to be a smarty or nothing, but I was taught at a young age to always disconnect the negative cable, with the pos off you could still bump a tool from the engine and spark it on the pos terminal, with the neg off you're safe from that all around. Thanks for the videos
This is an outstanding instructional video. I have a D140 with a slightly different engine, so the muffler remove and replace from the dead engine to the new one and the belt drive assembly added a little time....mostly the drive belt because it has an electronic clutch. But still, after watching the video a few times I felt empowered to take it on with an excellent result. Keep making these videos! You Tube rocks!!
Where did you get the new engine? I have the 2015 D140 also….
Its surprising to me that these engines don't have a low-oil shutdown like even inexpensive generators often do. Homeowners aren't great about checking oil all the time and it could save an expensive bill.
A generator sits on the ground usually on level ground at that...your lawnmower, rototiller, lawn tractor, etc. get tipped and tilted at odd angles continuously, a low oil shutdown sensor LOL, you'd hate that feature in about 2 seconds.
Thanks for the video, the dealer was going to charge me $350 labour to change it. I did it in 1.5 hrs thanks to your video.
Excellent idea with marking the throttle cable with paint
i always take negative off first. if you touch metal when doing positive first you may see big spark.
That's exactly what I do. Then if you decide to take off the positive, you can hit your ratchet on the frame all you want.
It's good you mentioned change your oil after two hours because the metal shavings in the new engine, alot of people don't know this buying a new lawn tractor also.
Great job , really good video, this helped my greatly with my John deer engine transplant …
I liked it very much! I work in ktm official dealer ( motorcycles) and i liked to see yours videos about small engine as well. Keep on going . Greetings from Italy
If the plugs are different but the wires are the same, can't you just push the pins out of the new plug and re-insert them where they need to be to match the tractor chassis?
yes you could
Nice Job!Thanks for sharing. Remember: Nothing runs like a DEER except CHILLI and BEER
GREAT VIDEO ..THEY SAVED ALOT OF MONEY WITH THE ENGINE SWAP...RETIRED LARRY IN INDIANAPOLIS INDIANA..
Nice video Donny, I notice the original engine was a 21 HP, and the new replacement was a 19 HP, but it didn't look like that had any affect on the replacement, How did you know that a motor with 2 HP less would be an easy swap ? Thanks
Extremely very good video! Very informative! You made it look easy! 👍
You make it look easy Dony, great job as always, 👍👍
it's actually not that hard, you could actually easily do it too!
I recently replaced the cam shaft in my neighbour's deere. engine bolts are easy access compared to some others I've worked on.
Getting ready to attempt an engine swap soon, wish you were here, if it took you an hour I"ll figure on 2 weeks, great video, thanks
you'll be alright!
You didn't even have to remove the hood! I probably would have just assuming I would need the space. Nice job!
The hood is an easy 4 bolts to remove.
Hilarious how much less work putting a new engine on is than actually fixing one 😂
A $10 dollar Molex Pin Pusher tool would let you push the alternator wire pins out of the plug bodies and just swap the plug body ends to match vs changing the stator.
Excellent explanation and video Dony, it's such an easy thing to check the oil level but too many people nowadays are just in too much of a hurry to see if it is too low or that maybe your carburetor needle valve became stuck and your dipstick level is high and full of gasoline which can also result in a blown engine. I experienced the crankcase full of gasoline scenario years ago while checking the oil level and was able to correct it right away, after that I installed fuel shut off valves on my tractors and never had to worry about it again. My 2013 Craftsman YT-3000 by Husqvarna has that same 21 HP Intek engine with 850 running hours on it today by doing 50 hour oil and filter changes, and the maintenance and care that I've always given it.
that's amazing you have 850 hours on it! that's thanks to your maintenance!
Regular maintenance is a huge player in how long something will last...most people never change the oil in their mowers and wonder why it lasts a couple seasons at best.
@@wildbill23c 👍I use my 2013 Craftsman tractor 4 seasons out of the year cutting grass, mulching leaves and plowing snow so I've averaged 100 hours a season for the last 8.5 years. I've seen other people go through 2 or 3 mowers during that time with theirs being only a year or two old looking older than mine, they only use them a couple months out of the year just to cut grass and never bother to clean them off afterwards, or maintain them mechanically likewise.
@@donyboy73 Thanks Dony, knock on wood I've never had to experience a blown head gasket or broken camshaft compression release which this Intek engine is notorious for, but if it happens I wouldn't be afraid to tackle the job tomorrow with all the great helpful instructional videos that you and others post on CZcams.
@@Serpico1152 My current mower gets used 4 seasons as well. So the last time I run it for leaf clean up, I change the oil/filter and put the snow blower on...then in the spring I change the oil/filter again when I swap back to the mower deck. Oil/filters are cheap, engines not so much LOL.
Moral of the story is -change your oil !
Thanks for the video. I was able to remove 4 bolts hinged to engine itself, however cannot remove the bolt to disconnect the pulley, the belt discs keeps spinning along with fan. Any recommendations?
You can hold the pulley shaft with pipe wrench or use an impact.
Good video. However, you should always remove the negative battery connection first, positive second. Negative terminal last when reconnecting. When the negative is disconnected, if you accidently ground out your wrench when touching the positive terminal nothing happens since the complete circuit is broken. If you only disconnect the positive terminal, accidently grounding the wrench (or anything else metal) while working around the battery will cause a spark and possible battery explosion since the circuit will be complete. Not a pretty sight when that happens.
Remarkable. Looks simple. Great video for building confidence.
I can't understand how people don't check their oil. I check my oil before I even put the key in. I mean it's not hard, you twist pull out the dip stick and look. If it's low add.. not difficult!! But hey if you have a over grand laying around? By all means just jump on the tractor and cut away!! Hell I wish I had that kinda cash to to be able to throw a brand new engine on. As always Don, thanks for sharing your knowledge. Your Absolutely one of the best channels on CZcams
With my current lawn tractor the fuel tank is under the hood, its easier to refuel by opening the hood so you can monitor the fuel level as you are filling it up...and the engine oil dipstick is also right there, makes far more sense to check everything including the air filter while at it....much cheaper to add oil, keep the filter clean than it is to have to replace the equipment, or an engine.
@@wildbill23c That is my thoughts exactly. I can't understand how people don't take 3 minutes to check 2 or 3 things🤔🤔🤔
@@garyalensr A lot of people also have issues with the deck not cutting even, and no matter what they do it don't cut right, but they never bother checking the air pressure in their tires.
@@wildbill23c You couldn't be more right about that!! I was having an issue with uneven cut and couldn't figure out what the issue was and watched one of his videos and he showed about low air pressure in tires. I put the correct amount and it was cutting great. Now I always check my air pressure
I have a 2006 John Deere x540. Been a great machine and engine still is strong. Good video.
I hope with that costly repair the customer learned to check the oil.
Most likely not...people have too much money not enough common sense and in this case absolutely no mechanical knowledge. They probably do the same thing with their car too.
@@wildbill23c probably right
Should of put anti-seize on engine shaft b4 installing pulley.
Excellent Job!! Donny!! Very perfessonal!! I enjoy your channel!! Sincerely... your biggest fan... Jesse much love and respect from the US 🇺🇸 and Airzona..
thank you!
@@donyboy73 you're very welcomed!! By the way do you sale donyboy73 stickers or anything ?? If so I'd like to buy a few for my tool box 🧰
@@jjjuarez312 sorry but at the moment I do not have any stickers
Big job you made look easy!
You didnt put the oil drain from the old engine onto the new one. LOL. Someone will be cussing the first time they change the oil.
Also not a bad idea to put some anti-seize on the engine pulley before you re-install it.
Crazy that people don’t check the oil during mowing there yard, I check mine two times and take a break let’s motor cool off
Excellent explanation.
I've repaired a lot of mower, and the engines are a strong component of any yard tractor. If you can manage not to run it out of oil the engine will last longer then the deck, tranny, frame, etc.
No mention of changing the oil filter on the new engine? I'm pretty sure that was just an oversight.
Tip for other viewers: Those horizontal filters spill oil all over the frame and block when you take them off. This can be avoided by placing a funnel or an aluminum foil "ramp" under the end of the filter and then punching a hole in the end of the filter and letting it drain. You only spill a few drops of oil that way and it takes less time than wiping up the mess.
Thanks for the video. I just did an engine swap on mower and it's running now. However, the mower is now very slow, almost stopping completely when engaging the blades. Any thoughts on what I did wrong or what I can do to make the mower operate at normal speeds? Thank you!
Correct me if I’m wrong but you went from a 21 hp to a 19 hp just wondering why ? I just bought a Husqvarna tractor with a Briggs 18.5 and the dealership told me to change the oil after 10 hrs ( first oil change)
I’m wondering the same. I wonder if it will be noticeable? I had a mower that size a few years back that had a 26 hp twin and it was by no means overpowered.
How much does a motor like that cost you in Canada and you did a great job
Watch at the end of the video
Nice job. You made it look easy.
Why didn’t you swap the quick oil drain?
I've been looking forward to this video since you posted the short one explaining it.
Great video! What would your recommendation be for a new riding mower? A plastic transmission does not sound like the best choice.
It's simple, don't buy a new one! Seriously every brand currently selling in any stores today, even john deere, all have huge problems waiting to happen, either a plastic cvt transmission, or a briggs engine that will blow its head gasket and/or break the compression release within the first few years. If you really want a new tractor that will last more than 3 years, and I am not exaggerating about 3 years, you have to drop 4k+ on a x300 series jd, or better yet buy a used older tractor
@@nickflopper Thanks for your input Nick, much appreciated!!
Also make the claim to not use sythetic right away. Make sure the engine has had some time to break in before going sythetic. Over the past couple years I've moved to synthetic, the best amsoil for small engines and it has decreased my oil burn off, I highly recommend it. i got my mower in 2017 from my father in law and it is a 2001 machine.
The best small engine repair shop in Canada!!!!! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Wow I’d have been disappointed if my engine died with only 79.6 hours on it
I have a 19.5 HP B&S on the same model mower and it started burning oil at 176 hours and I’m still disappointed 🤠
Nice video.
Wow that was quick !
Great video Dony - I have a 90's sabre by John Deere. Was used very little and stored inside. Engine needs work but everything else is mint.. this may be a solution 🧐
they are great machines!
Predator engine would be your best solution for the cost....rather buying a new mower would be about the same if you have to have a repair shop do the work, the labor and cost of a new engine is pretty much the same as a new machine.
Thanks again for an amazing knowledgeable video. I do have one question. Is it easier to use a mounting bolt or tap to prethread the mounting holes before mounting the engine if using a tap then what size? Thank you again
Thanks for this help! Just ordered my new engine.....
Bravo, Don! 👏🏼
AND, you managed to mow your front lawn at the same time 👍🏼
If the oil is not changed during the first 5 hours, you will reduce the engine life by about half. The first oil change is the most important one.
John Deere doesn't use break in oil anymore from the factory. Most machines aren't due for an oil change for 50 hours or longer now.
That is correct to get the metal shavings out of new engine.
Enjoying your channel👍. Wondering if you can do a video on Stihl Mtronic (Older ms 261) diagnosis when not idling even after "reset" ....fuel solenoid? Thanks!
Do you have any tips for removing the long pulley bolt? Tried with an impact and wd40 but it won't budge. Really hope I don't need a torch
11:08 VERY surprised you didn't put ANTI seize on that shaft
Why??
Great video. I blew my engine, my mower is 18 years old hydrostatic is it worth to change the motor.
Looks so easy. Thanks for video.
Excellent Video, very straight forward install. 👍
Would the engine oil drain extension pipe not fit the new engine? Thoughts on the new JD quick change oil filters that come with new oil in them? The idea of changing a filter to "change the oil" does not sit well, but the speed and ease make it right for some people as I suppose it's better than just never changing the oil as was maybe the case with this customer.
You only get whatever oil is in the filter so you are only changing about 1/2 the oil...waste of time, its like changing the engine oil but not the filter. Why bother with either. Do it right or don't bother at all, most people buy the conversion kit to convert those things to the regular oil filter setup, and do normal oil/filter changes and skip that quick change nonsense.
You smeared the white paint witness mark you put on the throttle cable sheath.Maybe you need to put that mark earlier in the breakdown procedure to give the mark a chance to dry if you must use paint. I prefer either black or silver Sharpies whichever one shows up better. They dry instantly and don't smear!
Nice video. Did you forget to swap the extended oildraintube or doesn't it fit the new engine!?
KN
Yes I did! I will install when it comes in for service
Very well explained
Good job Don, glad you went over the costs and factors that go into deciding if the job was worth doing. With costs of parts and labor these days there comes a point where you simply have to stop. John Deere makes a good machine, on a cheaper machine it probably wouldn't be worth it.
Also, as a habit I always remove the negative terminal from the battery (instead of the positive) whether on a machine like this or a vehicle. That is because if you are using a wrench to remove the positive terminal and it touches the frame ... you will short it to ground and get a good (an probably unexpected) spark!
He loses street cred by making that crucial mistake
Be sure to give the owner a couple new cams with that engine. Lol
Given they couldn't manage to keep the oil filled, giving them extra engine parts ain't gonna solve anything.
Thank You Great info, easy to follow
Very good video and easy to understand. Thanks
If no major rust. Deck looks good and transmission is good...why not?
Arent the motors as much as a good used mower?
A new motor cost a grand give or take. I'm debating buying one
Nice job as always Don. Although I don't think the wing nuts, on the Battery Cables are a good idea.
Will the self tapping bolts align straight as your tightening them into the engine?
Also, for your info from John Deere: engine bolts are torqued to 37lbs muffler 14lbs and pulley 55lbs
Yes
Perfect just completed the bolts they all aligned and torqued to spec.
I just did the same swap, but when I went to start it nothing. I tried to jump the solenoid but got nothing. There is a intermittent buzzing on the bottom of the carb bowl, but that shouldn’t affect starting. Do you think I got some bad components on the new motor? I’m pretty sure it’s an electrical issue now. Didn’t have one before.
Very good video Donnie thanks for sharing take care have a great day
I have never pulled a motor off a mower that was that clean underneath.
Great video. Thanks
Nice one. Is that an old video or US Manufacture Engine with SAE fasteners and actual HP shown?
It seemed that there was enough oil in the old one to keep it from grenading. Guess not. Nice job, nice machine.
I REALLY ENJOY YOUR VIDEOS...RETIRED LARRY IN INDIANAPOLIS INDIANA...
Great video!
When u bought ur new engine did u have to do anything to it before placing it on the frame
I just got a ex mark walk behind mower and I'm gonna convert the engine from a pull start to a electric start any suggestions
Fill it with oil...
What size are the self tapping bolts that hold the engine on the frame?
Outstanding, DB73, I'm still learning. Thank you, Cheers !!***..👋