2008 - 2016 6.7 Dodge Cummins Turbo Rebuild
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- čas přidán 31. 12. 2016
- HE351VE Turbo Rebuild kit
turbolabofamerica.com/holset-h...
HE351VE Turbo Upgrade Options
turbolabofamerica.com/2008-dod...
He351ve He300vg 67mm upgrade 800hp : 421b62.myshopify.com/products...
He300vg turbo rebuild kit 2013 to 2018 6.7 dodge :
421b62.myshopify.com/products...
He351ve turbo rebuild kit 2007.5 to 2012 Dodge Ram:
421b62.myshopify.com/products...
He351ve and He300vg vgt nozzle sweeper rings :
421b62.myshopify.com/products...
He351ve He300vg 67mm turbine housing and shaft upgrade:
421b62.myshopify.com/products...
He300vg He351ve 67mm turbine upgrade :
421b62.myshopify.com/products...
Email us at turbolabamerica@gmail.com to inquire or purchase - Auta a dopravní prostředky
I just rebuilt my 2012 Cummins 6.7 HE351VE with your kit (purchased on Amazon, about 100.00), put over 300 miles on it, so far no leaks or codes (or leftover parts LOL). Only 80K miles on this truck but I had to take the turbo apart since one of the 4 tabs on the inside of the factory VGT nozzle broke off ("filter" tabs?) and jammed the VGT nozzle. So I just threw the rebuild kit in it and a new nozzle (one without tabs!) since I had it apart anyway. Links to videos come with the kit that will help you with the rebuild. I used Autoenginuity software (with Chrysler expansion pack) to pre-align and calibrate the original actuator (very easy). So about 250.00 in parts, plus a couple days labor since I have never done this before. Saved myself thousands in dealer costs to *replace* the turbo (they won't rebuild it). Pulls a loaded dual axle trailer over 10,000ft Colorado passes at about 20 lbs boost, going up to 30 if I put my foot in it (just like before the rebuild). Good quality parts. Thanks again
It’s amazing how little wear and FOD damage occurs on those nozzle rings! Cummins makes great parts that are super wear resistant and durable! Love it
Great video.could not find any information on rebuilding or even find the kit to do it. just called and talked to austin he walked me through what was going on and what i'll need to get the truck running smooth again. thanks, you guys definitely got my business.
Wish I'd known about you guys when my stock VGT wouldn't brake 100% on my 2012 Dodge anymore. My 3rd turbo will come from you folks.
You are the best . i am waiting for the rebuil kit from your shop . and i also got the vgt for genos garage and also a new valve with out the dumb filter . i camt wait to rebuild it . thanks man you are the best
Nice work guys.. 👀👍
I’ve got a question about how you modified the map width inducer. Did you mill it with a machine or take your time with a die grinder? I’m currently modifying my inducer the same way, thought I was the only one to do it this way 😂. Seeing you have done it this way reassures me
Man... You the best. Thank you for your lecture and knowledge.
my trubo got hot and the exhaust end shaft snapped. when i took it apart it appears the bearing side got damaged and the shaft wobbled around. if it put a new bearing in with that excess be a concern?
What would make the exhaust break come on when the button on the dash hasn't been pushed? Keeps coming on when I'm driving especially when I slow down and accelerate again like when I go around a curve.
Truck is running really good except for using the exhaust brake. Turbo need rebuild?
Nice video man. I am novice to this whole process of turbo rebuilding. I heard from some folks that turbo had to be balanced after the rebuild. Can you comment on that please?
I have a 2011 F650 with a 6.7 Cummins. Is there any chance that I could get engine oil crossing into the coolant within the turbo? I appreciate any help. Thanks
Can you machine the he351ve for a 63mm compressor wheel or only the 67?
What is the cost on one of these if you were to do it
What's the impact of the upgraded parts?
Would you need to calibrate the solenoid after assembly?
To use the upgraded wheel: how much is the machined housing to match the 67mm new wheel, and does the upgrading wheel require any other parts to be replaced. Thanks
+Roscoe Tippetts we machine the factory housing for 80$, the plate has to be machined and the turbine housing too
Nice, I just purchased this kit and I'm waiting for it to be delivered. Just a quick question, what type of fluid do you recommend to use during the assembly?
I know its probably too late but assembly lube should work fine
Clean engine oil just like you run in the crankcase.
Austin, that kit I got from you, the rubber lip seals for the nozzle and the actuator shaft don't fit in the bore real tight compared to the originals. Is this ok, the new ones I got have rubber grooves around the outer diameter of the seal, I was able to just about press them in by hand without a lot of force. While the originals have bare metal showing on the outer diameter where it presses into the bore and they came out much harder, and seem to have more of a press fit than the ones I got in the kit for the HE351Ve turbo. How's the machining of my housing going?
I'm seeing the same issue. What did you wind up doing?
@@dmlundgren SPTurboboost out in California, $139.00 they have ones even better then the factory, correct seals and bushings with larger oil grooves, these are the best.
Email sent. Thanks for posting!
Got a question I broke my 351 turbo out of my 2012 and it’s the shaft could I use my 300vg turbo shaft in my 351
where can i get a new nozzle?? do you sell them? i have a 08' what rebuild kit do you recommend? thanks.. i have the dreaded p2262
Your link triggered my AntiVirus
Are these oem rebuild parts?
Do you have a video on that?
I have a 2008 Dodge 4500 that I want to upgrade the turbo how can I contact you?
How can you tell where the balance marks are on the wheels? I'm rebuilding a stock 351ve.
There aren't any alignment marks for balancing on this model alignment doesn't matter unless you have the assembly balanced together
Great vid. I have a 2011 Ram 4500 C&C with 240k. Miles. Exhaust brake stopped working, no codes, no CEL. Would one assume carbon build up? I'm a confident DIY guy. What would be your recommendation? Thanks!
Your exhaust pressure sensor is full of soot or carbon up. Try cleaning it and remove the stainless steel line too.
TheVercettiTV Thanks for your reply. I checked that already, tube is clear and sensor is clean. No codes or CEL.
The actuator on the turbo itself is probably bad. They're expensive though. Make sure to index it correctly or it will be damaged
How do I remove unison ring from Hotside housing
I'm the same way. I was told it couldn't be rebuilt. My problem is my truck set up for like three months before I drove it. Before then, the turbo worked fine. When I realized that the turbo was out is when I went to use my engine brake and it wouldn't release until I got down to 25 mph. What's the info I need to order one of these kits and do you have a hot line per say, if I need a pep talk or help? Also, if I decide I'd rather you rebuild, how much would you charge?
turbolabofamerica.com/contact-us/
I've got same indicators. What is or was problem, soot ? Take out and clean put back in or take out clean and rebuild and replace?. I'm getting fabulous fuel economy lots of power only problem is going down hills in British Columbia i sometimes use my exhaust brake then it wont turn off untill I'm down to about 30 mph. I have a few days offf ,I'm ready to do something
do you have to remove the turbo and take the tubo housing apart to upgrade the wheel only on a 2012 cummins 6.7?
Michael Dean it needs to be removed to upgrade both compresor and turbine because the housings and plate must be removed
Turbo labs gave me this vid for reference, except this is missing about 20 parts. How are the compressor wheel balance marks aligned? Opposite, the same direction? And what are the balance marks? Where is the housing installation portion?
The orientation of the wheels does not matter on this model but if you want to keep the same orientation then you will need to mark the orientation of the compressor wheel nut and shaft which I use a file. The balancing cuts on the wheels are made when the parts are individually balanced, they cuts don’t have any relevance when the cartridge is assembled. I don’t have a video of installing the housings, but to install the exhaust housing, the vgt arm needs to be extended as the cartridge is moved side to side to get it to drop in.
How do you recalibrate the actuator? Looking to replace mine. Exhaust brake not working properly and I tow a lot
You need to bring it to someone, there is a tool that connects to the diagnostic port to do it.
So, what suggestions can you give on when this should be done, even if you don't notice any issues at the moment? For instance, I have 228k miles on my truck. I run cleaner on a schedule, am deleted (at 196k miles, when i bought the vehicle), and the turbo seems to be working normal. Is there a regular maintenance interval on these turbos? 2012 Ram 2500 w/ 6.7.
I have read so many horror stories of these things just giving up the ghost and the engine getting destroyed. I am rather anal about maintenance, so I am thinking I need to do a rebuild as the mileage is getting up there. Thanks in advance!
I don’t know I just do repairs to , if you don’t use the exhaust brake it would probably last longer
@@turbolabamerica thought I read somewhere that using the exhaust brake periodically does helps to keep it from sooting up and sticking???..Thanks
Are there torque specs?
I just rebuilt my turbo with ur video. Now with the housing on the fan doesn't want to turn when I tighten the clamp
There are 2 variations of compressor wheels. Did you replace the wheel?
I rebuilt mine. Like this and. It did fine. For a mile and. Now it’s making a. Terrible squeal when spooling. Please help
I am currently rebuilding my 351ve out of a 2012. The kit I have ordered does not come with the 2 larger piston rings? Is it critical to replace these two rings??
+Ainsley Dickinson you mean the rear seals in The he300vg?
Turbo Lab America
Uh no I am talking about the larger rings on the later 351ve's for I guess keeping the nozzle from shifting?? Is that correct? I talked with turboost who I purchased the kit from and the explanation they gave me was...the two larger rings are for keeping the nozzle ring centered!?!?
Hello . I HAVE A 20012 FREITHLINER WITH A 8.3 ENGINE , MY TURBO GOES IN AND OUT WITH OUT THE TURBINE HOUSING BUT ONCE I PUT IT ON IT WONT TURN IN AND OUT ANY SUGGESTION ?
Post a video so I can understand it better.
OMG, lucky me....I have been looking for a turbo rebuild kit for my 14 6.7l ram but was told by 3 different shops that the kit isn't available. From this video it looks like ur kit will work. Where do I buy one?
+Vincee P this is our kit turbolabofamerica.com/holset-he351ve-6-7-cummins-turbo-rebuild-kit/ if you have the HE300VG then you need 2 front seals and 2 rear seals, i can provide that if you leave s note at the checkout. Make sure you watch this video too: czcams.com/video/nc-PX92UJTY/video.html
Is this kit something new you offer? Because the kit on ur site was for up to 2012. I was told that the current rebuild kit up to 2012 does not work on the 13 and up....i am confused...Also, in ur other video which talked about the difference between the he351ve and he300vg, the flat round bearing, the bolts and the "collar" piece was different, ur kit has all those parts??
I rebuild the he300vg with the same kit but I have to use the extra front seal and extra rear seal with a stock rebuild. The thrust collar and bolts for the he300vg I don't have yet. The journal bearings are the same
So if I understand this correctly, u don't have the right kit for the 13+ turbos and reusing old parts to rebuild in ur video??
The major parts I have, the only major part that I don't have is the thrust collar that holds the dual seals, if the collar isn't usable I can convert it over to the older style collar and plate. I don't have new bolts, so I reused them, these turbos were not in because of needing a rebuild, they are in for upgrade and had 4000-10,000 miles on them. The major parts to rebuild those turbos are the seals and bearings, thrust collar and spacer. If your turbo was runnwithout oil then you may need the thrust collar and spacer, otherwise that part does not usually need to be replaced.
I got a Turbo from a 15 2500 with 60k miles on it. Pulled it off and the actuator was bad. I already bought a turbo and never sent back the core. Anyone know who will buy a core?
Mines very dirty would you recommend sandblasting the inside of the turbo or is that a bad idea? Are scotch brutes a good idea?
It’s best to degrease it first, we soak sone parts in gasoline, then use a pressure washer with a 0 degree tip.
If you sand blast a part that has oil all over it the sand will stick to the oil. We have a sandblaster that uses water when blasting so it reduces the sticking and provides better cleaning action for cleaning oily parts. If you use baking soda for blasting it does dissolve in water but the abrasive isn’t the fastest for cleaning.
If I was going to clean a part like that here I would pressure wash it first, then use my water/media blaster, then I would hit it with carb cleaner, hit it with air, then paint it, then pressure wash it with the 0 degree tip. The threads are the toughest areas to remove sand from.
@@turbolabamerica thanks a ton will definitely try this in my near future turbo venture as my actuator just went out at 150k and it's about time for a rebuild anyway
After performing this rebuild will the actuator need to be recalibrate? Is there a way to mark it while disassembling it so that it won't be recalibrated?
You have to install the turbo with the actuator off but plugged in, position the gear to the rear of the truck, turn the key on and off to cycle the actuator then install the actuator
@@turbolabamerica So if i understand you correctly, marking the position of the actuator and slider gears when you disassemble will not work, you have to calibrate as per the directions you gave ?
Those directions seems easy / simple enough compare to the computer software way...Are you sure that it will work ?
I have an issue maybe you can help me with. 2013 RAM 2500 I lost my turbo and it went into limp. I rebuilt the turbo and bought a 351 actuator with the crossover pigtail. Upon installation the actuator wouldn't pass the second half of the calibration. I took it off and started over and on the fifth try it passed. I started it up and added coolant, let it run for about 15 minutes and took off. I was in town and I had more boost than I should have and the engine seemed to be running hotter than normal. Around 30-40 minutes after I initially drove off the check engine light came on with the P00AF code. Any ideas on what I should do? I'm a hot shot driver and I need it back in a bad way
One other question... what decides when you have to recalibrate the actuator? Is it every time it gets unplugged, or only when it's married to another turbo charger?
I would do a boost leak test to make sure everything is secure. I would check over the travel of the gear on the turbo to make sure there isn’t an issue with where you put the gear in relation to the pivoting arm inside the turbo. If you don’t have that part correct it’s going to be difficult to calibrate if not impossible.
Can you tell me what decides when you have to recalibrate?
Usually when you install a new actuator. Or if it gets jammed from the vgt sticking. I had one customer that we never removed the vgt actuator and he had to recalibrate it, I didn’t understand why that was because that truck only had 10 k miles, I don’t handle the calibration part because I don’t have those tool and it’s not practical with the distance of people from my location. I don’t have control over how the turbo is altered once it leaves my location.
@@turbolabamerica would you leave the silencer out of a 15 cummins stock turbo??
I know this has been up for awhile but boy you're dead wrong with alot in this build.
Hi guys. Can I send you my turbo to rebuild? Where are you located? Thanks
What kind of oil should I buy for lubrication?
I use 15w40
Do you recommend a place specifically to send my Turbo
Yeah. To him.
Or to me. I think I can do it now
Does the compressor and turbine need to be balanced after removal? And what is the link to the rebuild kit he351ve
turbolabofamerica.com/he351ve-turbo-rebuild-kit/
@@turbolabamerica do you know how to balance the compressor wheel and turbine?
You don’t have to rebalance it, the Holset we’re balanced individual pieces
@@turbolabamerica in the video it says line the balance mark. I dont see that on my factory turbo
can you rebuild cummings px 6 turbo holset he35ive
Is that from the 6.7 in the ford f650, I have rebuilt one once before.
Yeah I like for ya to build mine. 👍🏻
i dont get it, how is this able to be rebuilt at home? i've been told turbos need to be balanced on expensive balancing machines
He said to align the balance marks as he was putting the impeller on. It would be like the alignment marks on the timing set of a gas engine. I assume anyways.
Is there a o-ring that goes on the cartridge and fits between the compressor housing to make a seal ?
+Craig G yes it's included in the kit if you just need that piece I have plenty extra
Turbo Lab America I think that's all I need. I get a loud squeal when boost comes on or the exhaust brake is on
@@M1000R_rider You have an exhaust manifold leak
tq specs anyone???
Tight
But not too tight
@@Kallaus_built well you failed on yours lol
I know one place I won't be sending my turbo... Torque specs are there for a reason.
+FlyHigh you can look up the torque specs by the bolts size.
Turbo Lab America I understand but in your video you rebuilt a turbo without using any specs. Is this common practice at TLoA?
You have telephone number for buy the kit thanks
What the cost on having a turbo rebuilt? My actuator is not working so I'm sure the turbo is full of carbon
+lowboytrucker we do the rebuild for 375