Enjoyed your video. I liked how you spliced in the old clips. I also practice "if it ain't broke don't fix it" . These ole machines were made by craftsmen to be able to be repaired under the shade of a tree. More times than not the original is far better than what we get brand new.
Thanks for the informative video Jaywalker. I'm restoring a 1936 Chevy Pickup with a 207 and this information will come in handy for rebuilding my distributor.
Nice touch on the cloth covered wire. It looks a lot better than plastic coated wire. I used to get a lot of cloth covered wire out of the old tube type TV 's and use it for wiring projects on my old Chevys.
Thank you very much on this video, very informative. Can you also do a video of how to time a 235 engine. I have a 62 chevy pickup and don't know much about cars but I'm learning a lot by watching CZcams videos like yours. Again thank you very for helping people like me.
The 48's used two different distributors. The subject unit is the mid year change that omits the reverse polarity feature. When you have the later model order points for a 49. You can achieve more accurate ignition timing by setting the point gap with an inexpensive tech and dwell meter to 38*. Using two screw drivers and a helper to work the starter, the engine becomes a distributor testing machine and you can set the dwell in less than a minute.
Thankyou Mr Jayhawker, that will help immensely when I get to rebuild the distributor on my 46 216. I love the snippets of old movies you have in your videos. Are they available anywhere to download?
I like the information I learned on your video. I was wondering about your die grinder being a cutoff saw. LOL You mentioned using high temperature grease? Check what the filler thickener is. Most high temp greases use a Bentone type. That’s a clay base thickener which has to be purged frequently to keep it from clogging. Better double check it. I know someone that used it with disastrous results. The shaft seized up and broke.
Also check out mr carlsons lab about leakage testing on capacitors, he even built a leak down tester and made it something to make yourself if you wanted
Hey, Desert Rat 2000, I have the grease cup & spring for my 1940 chevy but don't know what happened to the plug. I searched quite a bit for a new grease cup along with the spring & plug but came up with squat. If you or anyone find a resource for this please share the info. As far as I know, the plug is some kind of fiber plug that is kept soaked with grease & the spring keeps tension on it to grease the distributor shaft. Without the plug, some folks remove the spring so that it doesn't ride on the shaft --don't want metal on metal. Just keep checking the grease cup to keep it full.
Hello I really enjoyed your video on the distributors. I have a question on a problem I am having. I have a 1950 Chevy 4 door sedan that has been sitting for 47 years, my friend got the motor running and I fixed the brakes. After I got the insurance and license plate, I was ready to take it for a ride but as I pulling out, I heard a squeaking sound form the engine compartment. I checked and the distributor was shaking but the engine was still running as I held the distributor the shaking quit but as so as I let go it started again. Do I have a bad vacuum advance, or? the engines accelerate fine just the shaking of the distributor and vacuum arm moving back and forth. Jake.
My first step would be to pop the cap off and wiggle the distributor shaft to check how loose it is. There are bronze bushing the shaft goes through and they tend to wear out.
@@jmercado4 I assume there is a bolt holding the dist. down. Also if these aren't the reason you may want to pull the dist. and check the gear teeth on the dist. and the cam.
@@TheJayhawker well the hold down was tight but a friend of mine pulled the distributor and inspected the interior and said it was beyond repair. My guess is the counter weights and springs were broken. So shopping for another one. Thanks Jake.
You should have taught your viewers how to charge up a condenser so you could leave it for an unsuspecting co worker to pick up! I was that 16 year old co worker!
In tech school we had a drivable cutaway car, an old Fairlane that only had the floor, firewall, and front seat. Somehow a wire from the coil to the front seat springs got hooked up every time a younger guy was told to move the cutaway.
Awesome video!!!!
Best description/explanation of a condenser I've ever found. Excellent work.
Enjoyed your video. I liked how you spliced in the old clips. I also practice "if it ain't broke don't fix it" . These ole machines were made by craftsmen to be able to be repaired under the shade of a tree. More times than not the original is far better than what we get brand new.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the informative video Jaywalker. I'm restoring a 1936 Chevy Pickup with a 207 and this information will come in handy for rebuilding my distributor.
Nice touch on the cloth covered wire. It looks a lot better than plastic coated wire. I used to get a lot of cloth covered wire out of the old tube type TV 's and use it for wiring projects on my old Chevys.
Thank you very much on this video, very informative. Can you also do a video of how to time a 235 engine. I have a 62 chevy pickup and don't know much about cars but I'm learning a lot by watching CZcams videos like yours. Again thank you very for helping people like me.
Here's a video going through the process on a 216. Feel free to ask any questions you have. czcams.com/video/kxgjytm2JHk/video.html
thanks bro, from argentina
Awesome job
The 48's used two different distributors. The subject unit is the mid year change that omits the reverse polarity feature. When you have the later model order points for a 49. You can achieve more accurate ignition timing by setting the point gap with an inexpensive tech and dwell meter to 38*. Using two screw drivers and a helper to work the starter, the engine becomes a distributor testing machine and you can set the dwell in less than a minute.
Thankyou Mr Jayhawker, that will help immensely when I get to rebuild the distributor on my 46 216. I love the snippets of old movies you have in your videos. Are they available anywhere to download?
I like the information I learned on your video. I was wondering about your die grinder being a cutoff saw. LOL You mentioned using high temperature grease? Check what the filler thickener is. Most high temp greases use a Bentone type. That’s a clay base thickener which has to be purged frequently to keep it from clogging. Better double check it. I know someone that used it with disastrous results. The shaft seized up and broke.
Amazing video!! thank you where can I find the original chevy videos?
Yes They were built to last
Am I the only one who woke up everyone in the house screaming meee! When you ask who wanted to learn about distributors!?
Also check out mr carlsons lab about leakage testing on capacitors, he even built a leak down tester and made it something to make yourself if you wanted
great video! what spray cleaner did you use to clean it?
Hi Jayhawker great video, do you know where i can get a grease cup for my distributor
Hey, Desert Rat 2000, I have the grease cup & spring for my 1940 chevy but don't know what happened to the plug. I searched quite a bit for a new grease cup along with the spring & plug but came up with squat. If you or anyone find a resource for this please share the info. As far as I know, the plug is some kind of fiber plug that is kept soaked with grease & the spring keeps tension on it to grease the distributor shaft. Without the plug, some folks remove the spring so that it doesn't ride on the shaft --don't want metal on metal. Just keep checking the grease cup to keep it full.
Obligements on the testing procedure of the resistor. -53' 3100
Hello I really enjoyed your video on the distributors. I have a question on a problem I am having. I have a 1950 Chevy 4 door sedan that has been sitting for 47 years, my friend got the motor running and I fixed the brakes. After I got the insurance and license plate, I was ready to take it for a ride but as I pulling out, I heard a squeaking sound form the engine compartment. I checked and the distributor was shaking but the engine was still running as I held the distributor the shaking quit but as so as I let go it started again. Do I have a bad vacuum advance, or? the engines accelerate fine just the shaking of the distributor and vacuum arm moving back and forth. Jake.
My first step would be to pop the cap off and wiggle the distributor shaft to check how loose it is. There are bronze bushing the shaft goes through and they tend to wear out.
@@TheJayhawker thank you for this info i will get into it. Jake.
@@jmercado4 I assume there is a bolt holding the dist. down. Also if these aren't the reason you may want to pull the dist. and check the gear teeth on the dist. and the cam.
@@TheJayhawker well the hold down was tight but a friend of mine pulled the distributor and inspected the interior and said it was beyond repair. My guess is the counter weights and springs were broken. So shopping for another one. Thanks Jake.
You should have taught your viewers how to charge up a condenser so you could leave it for an unsuspecting co worker to pick up! I was that 16 year old co worker!
In tech school we had a drivable cutaway car, an old Fairlane that only had the floor, firewall, and front seat. Somehow a wire from the coil to the front seat springs got hooked up every time a younger guy was told to move the cutaway.
Can i send you mine to do it for me?
Yes, send me an email at ratzlaffmotorco@yahoo.com and I'll get you my address or send it to the P.O. box on my channel "about" page.
It will probably cost $75- $100.00 plus parts