Famous molecules in perfumery - Iso E Super
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- čas přidán 16. 07. 2022
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Sylvamber is a dream come true!
Wow Sam! Thank you for sharing all your knowledge with us. Cheers ❤
I've recently discovered you and am really enjoying your 'famous molecules' videos! They're extremely informative and just the right mix of information. Thank you so much for making these - looking forward to watching any more you make (and delving more into all your other videos too)!
Thank you! Luckily I just released another one :)
Thanks for this Sam, it was very informative.
This is super informative! Thanks. Amazing how much science and chemistry goes into this field.
Thank you
Wow!
What a great video! I learned so much THANK YOU!
Thank you, my pleasure
Thank you Sam. My experience with iso e super is to add warmth and amber effect, however the most notable effect is it seems to amplify other materials, it almost lifts them and highlights them. Timbersilk to me is much more notable and I use it when I want an amber smooth wood aroma. Keep’em coming Sam 😁
Interesting - Thank you!
I have a question, can I add iso e super to any perfume (this is for giving my formula lift and brightness more performance) formula and does the scent of the formula change or not?? or there is a rule to be followed
@@pureessence4443 my experience is it will create lift however you have to plan your formula to have the amber ceder aroma to it because it can change the scent
I have heard that you can add it to any perfume, I'm not a perfume designer I'm fragrance oils like (dior sauvage oil + alcohol) seller and I want to boost these blends so I ask if Iso e super is good for that?? Thanks
Subscribed. Appreciate the effort and delivery.
Brilliant knowledge 🙌🏻
❤😍what an wonderful explenation !
Thank u so much Sam ❤
You're most welcome!
Great educational video's you make. Thank you very much! I make natural perfumes with white synthetic musk as a base. And I noticed natural cedarwood extract works very good as a base note. It's rather expensive but it works wonderfully.
Thank you!
Thank you for consolidation of knowledge.
My pleasure
Amazing, the first time I've heard someone mention Arborone and Iso-Gamma separately! The lore with my favorite molecule goes deep lol... Both of those isomers are incredibly powerful, but Arborone is more scratchy while Iso-Gamma is velvety. So Sylvamber is technically the most potent variant. But it's best used in the way of Norlimbanol rather than solo, because the scent quality isn't as velvety and smooth. Regular Iso-E surprisingly has the most velvety isomer ratio of all the public variants. Nearly matching 01's patented variant.
To me, iso e super is more scratchy than timbersilk!
@@sammacer That's really interesting, it's the other way around to my nose! I find the dryness in Timbersilk a little sneeze-inducing. Sylvamber is much worse worn solo, it's unpleasantly tickly and sneezy despite me loving Molecule 01. One of my all-time favorites is a blend of Iso-E and Hedione HC I made. I think I'm wearing it more than anything else right now ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
@@santeripe will you share the formula so we can have a but of understanding of the smell?
@@siegmac3267 It's literally just Iso-E Super and Hedione HC lol. Smells like a fresher and more citrusy-floral Molecule 01. The ratio of these two molecules is critical, as there are bad and really good combinations. 1% can make a big difference. It took weeks of trial and error to find the optimal ratio.
@@santeripe so what is the ratio or you just gonna keep us guessing
I got my Pell Wall kits and I’m addicted to sniffing timbersilk 🤦🏽♀️😅
Haha you’re not alone
Thanks for the vdo/info.
Flamethrower by Pocket Bombs has a lot of Iso E Super in it - it's awesome
Always a pleasure Sam! Hope you manage to avoid the heat today 😋
Yes, mostly managed to stay out of it, thanks!
Such a great video. Thank you. There is so much information there I will have to watch again! I am wearing Paper - by Commodity and it has Iso E super so I was curious to learn about it. To me it smells like Baccarat Rouge 540 although Iso E super is not listed as an ingredient in BR 540.
Thank you! I’m not sure what’s in baccarat rouge but Iso E Super is so widespread that I wouldn’t be surprised
you took this to the next level of the journey.
Thanks haha
So good!
Thanks!
Thank you.
Does it work if you want to layer it with citrusy and fresh smells (that are not necessarily woody)? The goal is to push the sillage of fresh scents
My brain is about to blow up. 😊
thanks a lot
Super informative thanks 😊
What would you recommend to dilute iso e super with down to .10 for fine fragrance?
I just smelled iso e super for the first time and it is gorgeous! Like a cool woody breeze with a hint of lemon, i think ill buy some but i can only smell it on the skin/a scent strip after i let it sit for a while? I dont know why but yeah i loved the video, very helpful!
Yes don’t worry that’s normal!
Thanks
Please tell me what to add to my mixes to make my colognes last. I'm in GREECE. Thank you, you are great.
Musk molecules should help you since they are on the freshie side. Citral can help the lemons, also linalool, ethyl linalool, ethyl linalyl acetate and dihydro myrcenol. Coumarin always helps to 'lift' topnotes. Probably a fresh wood like virginian cedarwood (+ cedryl acetate) can give some spicey character.
When I smelled Iso E Super it smelled really woody and I always smelled it right away in a fragrance and I love it
Fantastic
Yes me too. First time I opened the bottle, I was like ahhh yes! This is the scent I had been trying in vain for months using naturals.😄
where would be the best place to buy perfumery raw materials?
I've subscribed to your excellent channel. I've already started experimenting with these substances, both with my fragrance collection and separately to create something new for myself. It's a bit like with music (bass, middle and treble, with all harmonies and combinations giving various effects, feelings, colours and flavours), I think I'm going to enjoy this just as much. Maybe I can compose something I, and family and friends could enjoy too. Fascinating stuff, and possibly a new hobby. 🦌⛤⛧🤘
It’s like music in that regard for sure! Good luck trying it out :)
Thanks, this is great. When you talk aboit Iso being used as 5% or 20$ of the formula, I assume you're talking about the proportion of the raw materials, rather than the % of the total EDT/EDP?
Yes, correct
You are a hidden gem
Thanks!
According to DRT, the gamma isomere content of Sylvamber is 18 - 26% (as my new stock does smell noticeable different than my old stock, I suppose there is a quite high batch variation, so it appears that this is really the rnge where it can be, not a case where a manufacturer doesn't want to be too clear). DRT btw now belongs to Firmenich, that's why you sometime now find Firmenich branded Sylvamber, so don't be confused, it's the same product still produced at the same site.
I don't like Timbersilk, when I found out it's not only a different isomere ration but also contains a tiny bit of AmberXtreme, I knew why. I dislike most of those super ambers...
I will have to try the sylvamber… and yes it is owned by Firmenich now! I like tinbersilk but maybe that’s just me
Funny I didn’t care for timbersilk when I first got it. It didn’t really smell all that different.
I just broke it out for a blend after watching this video and wow! It smelled incredible.
Can you double the amount/concentration of Iso E Super to get the strength of Sylvamber?
Not quite since they’re slightly different mixtures of molecules
@@sammacer thank you! I learn so much from your videos! You should make a class where we can enroll from you.
How do you keep the percentage of your overall formula up when only using 10% of things like iso e hedione galax etc. I’m confused how to keep the concentration high when doing trials with predilutions. Would I just push other notes above 15% or so? Overdose other things because it’s a shame to OD iso e etc?
Currently I like to make 5 g samples. That way anything over 1% in the final formula you can weigh in pure form. If that's not possible, you can make a base at a 20% dilution for the core of your perfume or for some of your raw materials.
@@sammacer my goodness! This just clicked. I have noticed that when I add neat materials!
How does Iso E super increase projection and longevity of a perfume? As far as I know, increasing projection and sillage will compromise performance or longevity? Correct me if im wrong. Cheers!
Yep you’re right - that is the case in general. A few raw materials like Iso E Super are outliers in that they seemingly provide both. I really don’t know why this is, I am as curious to know as you!
@@sammacer that makes ISO E super very interesting. In fact, very very interesting. I should have bought more than I did. Thank you for your help!
@@sammacer by the way, I have read about using ISO E super with deionized water to create Molecule 01 effect. Would you recommend Deionized over Alcohol or not?
I was told that date and office from fragrance one, Jeremy fragrance was a ISO E super dominant scent. Is that tru?
No idea, I haven’t smelled it, why don’t you ask him?
Probably. Alberto Morillas was the perfumer.
He made CK1 Aqua d gio etc. all are really light fresh fragrances and IeS is great for that.
@@wib6044 you know that is incredibly interesting, I wear Versace bright Crystal and he is the perfumer for that scent and I'm on the hunt to see if bright crystal is made with iso e super.
Bioaccumulation sounds fairly terrifying. Are there any concerns about cancer with exposure to iso e super?
None that I know of
Sam, what does it mean 25% of perfume formula, does it mean the whole perfume or just the ingredients blend without alcohol?
It can refer to either, send me the time stamp and I’ll let you know
@@sammacer i really wanna know about this, Sam. By the way, keep the good work!
@@sammacer I mean you ve mentioned in dior fahrenheit 25% percent iso e super used in formula. 1:30 .
Is it true iso e super can prolong perfume's performance?
Well iso e super is long lasting and projecting and woody smelling so it will add those qualities to your perfume if you add it…
So is Iso E Super bad for the environment considering its ability to accumulate? And if so, what is the likelihood of it being no longer used in perfumery? What impact would it have?
I’m no expert on that unfortunately, I couldn’t tell you
@@sammacer Ok I understand, me neither. I read some study on Galaxotide and some other muscs that warns very emphatically to stop or at least limit their use because of the environmental impact. So I started wondering if there are some restrictions on their use coming. And it got me thinking how the perfumery industry would change after such restrictions. But we'll see I guess.
Also not an expert here but to my understanding, much like many of the other materials we use, Iso E Super will continue to restricted by IFRA indefinitely. However, not all hope is lost because we are at least still at a 20% limit.
Also your understanding is correct to my knowledge. ISO E Super is restricted for its ability to bioaccumulate if released in the environment just like Galaxolide. Galaxolide is restricted because it can accumulate in the mammaries. My research could be flawed, but that’s what I know
I’ve just mixed my first ISO E and perfumers alcohol for the first time. It smells great but it’s slightly cloudy/milky is this normal?
No it shouldn’t be, that could signal a problem with the ISO E SUPER or the alcohol
@@sammacerthank you for your advice I’ve just tested it with my other starter oils and it seems to be the ISO E super that’s the issue. Do you have a recommendation on a reliable supplier for ISO E Super? Thank you
It will depend on your country - check my most viewed video on the channel since I list some there
Hello, I commented a while back and we had a short conversation about needing help finding good books and sources for synthesis of raw materials and the chemistry of perfume blending, but I never got your message back; so could you help me out and suggest a good book/books to start with please?
Check out his videos on making perfume at home as well as his book review playlist through his channel. Also check out BK Scents and FragranceView. They mention some books as well
Sorry for not getting back to you. I don’t know any good guides for the synthesis of raw materials, but “Scent and Chemistry, the world of molecular odours” has a lot of synthetic pathways. As for blending, that often isn’t in books either, although “introduction to perfumery” by Tony Curtis has some formulas
@@MontaeIsHungry OK, thanks
@@sammacer OK, thank you very much
vine aqui buscando como hacer un dibujo tecnico con proyecciones ISO E (modo europeo) y m encuentro un video interesantes sobre perfumes jajaja, este mundo esta loco
Hahaha - well glad you enjoyed the video ;)
Note ISO e super
I can't stand Iso E spec those overdoses in frags
It simply smells cheap and gave me migraine
p̳r̳o̳m̳o̳s̳m̳ ❤️
Please tell me what to add to my mixes to make my colognes last. I'm in GREECE. Thank you, you are great.
There’s no magic trick; you need to compose them to last a long time in the first place; that means using a lot of long lasting raw materials. You can work out how long they last by leaving them on a scent strip and recording the time until the smell is gone
Muscone
Muscenone
Musk R1
All have blotter tenacity of 2 weeks or more.
Naturals, use absolutes, resins, co2 extractions.
At the end of the day like he said there is no magic Trick. It’s a problem very experienced and highly trained perfumers have.
Watch some reviews on CZcams. That’s is probably the single biggest complaint customers have, and these formulas took months/years and thousands of dollars to create.