Scenthusiasm Scent School: WHAT'S ALL THIS ABOUT ISO E SUPER?
Vložit
- čas přidán 11. 12. 2021
- In which Sarah makes a 20% dilution of Iso E Super, with the proper kit, and Arthur is not particularly impressed.
We explain why it is that diluting Iso E Super doesn't get actually get you a bargain bottle of Molecule 01. - Jak na to + styl
Yes, that's great marketing ... and doubts assail my mind. Thanks Sarah and Arthur. 😉
You're welcome. 😁
Thanks for covering this. I enjoy wearing Molecule 01 so this was very interesting for me. (edited at Sarah's request 😅)
Never ever apologise for wearing a perfume you love. Edit that last bit out.
Extra lol.
these intimate videos are the best!
Glad you're enjoying them. 🩵
Thank you for the input. Ive been considering adding a little iso e super to some fragrance blends that will end up scenting some homemade soaps. Luke most things ive found lots of conflicting information regarding this on the internet. Of course im just going to try it and see what happens
Iso E Super is highly restricted in wash off products that go straight down the sink. If you want the real information go straight to the IFRA Standards safety site.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 thank you so much, at the moment nothing is ready for sale but it doesnt hurt to be safe and in the future some of these may actually hit the market so i really appreciate the input
@@SarahMcCartney4160 aw wait now i see what you are saying. Its an environmental thing then not a safe for the user thing
@@jethrohetero4990 exactly. There are many reasons for restrictions these days, and more coming soon.
'Sniff it half as much' 😄 Arthur nailed it. Or if you stop breathing, it'll last forever. 🤭 A great vid Sarah! Any chance of getting one on the chemistry of maceration?
Thank you. No chance whatever. If you put a new perfume through a GC and compare it with one that's a few months old, the results are the same. Yet, the older one smells better. Chemistry? Or wizardry? Chemistry of course, but I can't explain it. Why does curry taste better on day 3?
@@SarahMcCartney4160 If only Severus Snape were still alive...I'm sure he could enlighten us.
Do you have a particular method to washing your beakers out in between? Is it good ole Dawn dishwashing detergent, or do you need to use a specific solvent, or does it depend on what you're washing out of it? Just curious. Thank you for another fascinating video! :)
Dishwasher. Mostly I wipe them out with ethanol first.
Great video, Sarah!
Would a made home solution like that help to enhance the longevity/projection of a fragrance with weak performance if they are applied together?
Hi Felipe, it might work, it might not. The fragrance probably already contains Iso E Super. I know there are videos on CZcams which "reveal this amazing secret", but all perfumers use Iso E Super appropriately according to the result they or their client wants. It's really not secret. That's like saying "Hey, you can add this amazing ingredient to your food to make it sweeter! It's called sugar."
Thanks Sara for video ill to add few drops of bees wax and waiting for the rsult ✨
I bet it will smell wonderful.
Hello! Great video as always.
I had a quick question. I’m working on a fragrance called pink cloud and I couldn’t nail it down until I just separated the pink from the cloud. I am satisfied with how I handled the "pink"; it has a nice bright peach and orangey top with bits of coconut and jasmine/ylang. But I’m so stuck on the vanilla and I can’t get the creaminess I’m looking for. I was wondering how you got the vanilla/custard/whipped cream smell in Creamy Vanilla Crumble. Could you point me in the right direction?
It's basically nothing but vanilla, vanillin and ethyl vanillin, with a LOT of musks, and some Iso E Super. I see no point in long, complicated formulas when simplicity works the way you want it to.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 thank you, I will try it!
@@bryantiamson5704except I did add hay absolute and tobacco absolute to make it interesting. That's where the complexity comes from, rather than a long list of materials.
@@jaybrown1480 In professional perfumery everything is measured in grams; I'd strongly suggest that you get a scale and switch over to weight as quickly as you can. I'm not particularly interested in copying other people's perfumes. I only ever publish my own formulas.
Hi Sarah. I myself don’t enjoy Iso E super/ related molecules (they tend to spoil things for me-at least at high dose) but I’ve been curious about your perfumes for a long time. I have a sample of the sexiest scent on the planet IMHO which doesn’t work for me. The older formulas like the old Guerlains do, as well as many gourmands and resin based perfumes. Which perfume would you recommend that does not contain these or other similar heavy weight aromachemicals? Do you have a perfume with a hefty dose of benzoin/sweet resin based (benzoin is my favourite note and I adore some Lush perfumes like I’m Home and Snowcake). Thank you so much for reading my comment and loving your foxes and wagtails 😊
Thank you. Perhaps go with Tokyo Spring Blossom, which has none of the well known modern molecules and a lot of the balsams.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 thanks! I’ll try it :)
@Sarah McCartney Have you compared
Sylvamber vs IsoESuper, is it any worth replacing with Sylvamber? The IsoESuper beta (more commonly available, CAS No. 54464 - 57 - 2) and the IsoESuper Gamma (68155 - 67 - 9) have the same boiling point ~ 312 C. Maybe they smell different or one is highly diffusive than the other despite having the same vapor pressure? I smelled sylvamber, it may be having more odor impact, or maybe it's just an unconscious bias, I don't know. I am keen to know about your experience. I am not sure if I put the question correctly. Also big thanks for this video I really loved it.
Hi Arijit, no I haven't. I tend to find something I'm happy with and stick with it. If I need to solve a problem I will go and look for an answer, but now I'm running my company, I have less time to explore.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 I completely understand. Yes, it is really difficult to find time to explore (possibly an endless endeavor). In any case, I loved the video, thanks again, and will make a point to visit 4160 one day.
@@arijitbasu2715 I look forward to it.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 Where did you purchase your 25ml spray bottle from? Do you know where I can purchase pressure sensitive spray atomizers similar to “Dior” bottles?
@@RobertLaTuso I bought them from DHGate, China. They aren't very good quality though; the pumps are dreadful and they leak.
FYI if you don't have a scale accurate enough and you don't want to buy one, you can do it by volume as long as you calculate the % by weight using the specific gravity of both the solvent and the solute. I make mine using 190 proof (95% abv) everclear (specific gravity of .80) and Iso E super from IFF (specific gravity of .96). Using 85 ml of ethanol and 15 ml of Iso E Super gives me 100ml of a 17.45% solution of Iso E super in ethanol. Both of those numbers are easily divisible by 5 if you only want to make 20ml. 17ml ethanol and 3 ml Iso E super. This is below the safe limit and easy to measure...food for thought.
In the UK and EU the law is that we must submit all our formulas by weight for our CPSRs ready to sell legally so we need scales.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 That makes perfect sense. I should have specified, that comment was meant for your viewers who might not already have a scale and who might be amateurs like me with no plans of selling anything (I don't even use sda, just 190 proof everclear). It was not meant as a critique of your method of adding solute by weight, which is objectively more precise (by using whole ml of solute, and only making 20ml, 17.45% is the closest you can get to your preferred 20%, just one more ml brings the concentration up to 23.something). I honestly didn't expect a response, but since I have your attention, IFF specifies on their website that the typical use level of Iso E Super is 10%...but most recipes I've found from DIY fragrance people all range from 15% to 20%. Is it safe to use at these concentrations? Is 10% just a recommendation for a final product? What gives?
@@Nepharian TBH most of my students who don't have much money would still have $20 for a scale off ebay, and would find the maths you recommend to be a bit of a pain in the backside. Also standard pipettes aren't always that accurate.
You can get the Iso E Super safe levels from the IFRA standards and currently it's 20% in category 4, fine fragrances. Recommended uses are often totally unrelated to safety - although they are never highter than IFRA - and more related to cost and function. Many unrestricted materials have a low recommended use: Cedramber is recommended at 2%. I use it at 30% in the formula for the Sexiest Scent on the Planet.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 Thank you so much for your reply. I'm loving your videos.
What would you charge to help me create my own personal cologne recipe? So i can make my own 1.7oz spray cologne..... thanks so much
What happens if you just put without iso e super without diluting?
That depends how much you want to add and what you want to add it to. But you could exceed permitted amounts.
What percentage would you recommend to make Molecule 02 at home? 5% Ambroxan and 95% solvent? Higher?
It's quite difficult to get more than 5% to stay in solution, and I think that should do it. It's not called Molecule 02 of course, as that's a trademark, but there's nothing to stop people bottling Ambrox in ethanol and wearing it.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 thank you Sarah!! Where do you typically shop for these ingredients. I was planning on buying from Perfumers Apprentice
@@465harris Perfumers Apprentice is good. Typically I would buy from Azelis, a trade supplier but 5kg at a go.
And why is Linalool in EVERY fragrance?
Because it's in bergamot and lavender and rosewood and hundreds of other essential oils, and it's also a really excellent blending material. It's declared on the label because it's a skin sensitiser whereas Hedione isn't because it's not.
Makes fragrances project longer.... Spray a freshie, then spray ISO e super over.... Lasts a lot longer, and that's no conspiracy.
Sometimes. It depends how much Iso E Super there already is in there.
Molecule 01 isn’t just ISO E super. There are allergens on the box.. there’s other raw materials in it, like hedeione, etc. it’s just marketing and it’s expensive. ISO E super is not.
Molecule 01 is captive version of Iso E Super, same chemical, slightly different shape, the strongest of the isomers. Perhaps you're thinking of Escentic 01 which does contain other materials with allergens including lime essential oil. The marketing, stating that they are "dangerous aphrodisiacs" is questionable at best. 🤣
hedione. iso e, ambroxan all claims about having pheromone properties, i believe its true, cause of molecular structure similar to some humans pheromones such as Enone. Anol. they sure are pretty pleasant mostly to the one smelling them plus having psychiological effect. i mean they are not magic ingredients but sure produce influence and radical effect
The manufacturers never make such claims because they aren't true. There are no human pheromones because humans no longer have pheromone detectors. You are absolutely free to believe it if you like, but only perfume sales people make such claims to separate people from their money. Chemists and biologists do not.