Making Perfume - USING "CLOUDS", PERFUMERY'S SECRET SUPERPOWERS
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- čas přidán 24. 05. 2021
- In the small world of artisan perfumery, it can be quite hard to convince new perfumers to use materials which don't have a strong aroma, when there are so many more exciting intense materials out there to blend.
This is a film about how important these quieter materials are, and in which we create a fragrance called Bond Villain, by using five materials, including Iso E Super and Hedione.
(Actually, the tonka didn't cost me £8000, don't worry. I accidentally applied a multiple.)
For more formulas and guides you artisan perfumery have a look at www.patreon.com/scenthusiasm
For our intensive online classes: workbook, videos and formulas to make up, visit scenthusiasm.school - Jak na to + styl
I absolutely love your videos. I feel like I’m hanging out with a dear old friend. I hope you continue to make them!
Thanks ever so much. We made another one today and are planning to make one a week until we run out of steam.
Thank you Sarah and Arthur. That was fascinating. Oh if only we had "smell-o-vision" 😁 I also recently rewatched "Lost In Translation" and had to Google "more intensity". Love that film! 😊
I am so thankful for you and your tips and tricks! I have learned so much. You've made this "lockdown" so much more bearable. What a joy it is for us all. And thanks also to the man that records these videos as well. I love hearing his thoughts. :)
Thank you. You can see "Television actor Arthur McBain" in the Units of Sexiness film too. He's our chief bottler and filmmaker.
After three years of experimenting, I can put this in context and it adds to the knowledge, so it’s great to watch! thank you Sarah and Arthur. Hope you will continue.
Thanks, David. I'm really glad it's useful.
Absolutely loved watching, thank you so much for all these videos 🙏🏻
Fantastic video, as always Sarah! Thank you for sharing.
I love how you casually just rattle off the composition of the Magical Mystery Material. How many perfumers are this honest?!
Most don't own their own businesses so they don't have the freedom to reveal their employers' secrets. The fear of being copied is real among the big guys because knowledge is valuable.
It was IES + Hedione + ??? I missed the last part.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 ETHYLENE BRASSYLATE?
Yes, it's a musk.
yay for a film on citrus fruits... and Paddington bear and marmalade :). thank you for another video :)....ps the rose, bitter orange, coumarin, hedione and iso e super sounds lovely....also love these videos.. really really enjoyable
I think I'd better put it on the list.
What a superbly delivered lesson. Enjoyed every minute! Thank you Sarah. ~ Genevieve
Thank you, I'm always happy to hear that our explanations are useful.
Fantastic video, thank you Sarah!
I've just found your channel and I think it's amazing ❤ thank you!
Thanks a lot for saying so. I hope it's really useful.
And THAT'S what I was looking for! Great video!
Thanks for saying so. 😃🖖🏻
What a lovely lesson I learned today. I love that you use sounds and dance moves to describe fragrances. Let’s see whether Eau de super villain suprème will ever see the light day. Thanks so much for making these videos!
Thank you. I shall give it another sniff and see how it's shaping up. 😄 Materials have textures, sounds and shapes as well as aromas. It's not just about the smell.
Excellent video. I won’t be shy about these materials any more.
Thank you. I'm happy to hear that; they can be misunderstood. Let me know how you get on with them.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and it is a help me in many ways! ❤
You're very welcome. I discovered all these things along the way and it seems right to me to share them.
In general fragrances are associated with images and textures for some perfumer. But just like you, I associate with sounds.
The more I practise, the more I feel texture too. The sound seems to be inate for me, you too I imagine, but texture is more useful for creating, I find.
Originally I was quite generous with the woody ambers, including Cedramber, but to me they do smell rather unpleasant at such high amounts and most I do not perceive as light and etheral as Hedione or Iso E Super, not at all. So I wondered about the high amount of cedramber in that blend and if it's got something to do with one of the other ingredients taming the off notes down..?
Anyway, thank you for uploading, I just subscribed and look forward to watch your other videos.
Thank you for subscribing. I think that Cedramber is different from the other woody ambers. It's absolutely nothing like AmberXtreme, Karmawood or Norlimbanol for example. So while I agree with you about the others, I'd say that Cedramber behaves really differently.
Awesome content!! Thank you ❤️
Thank you for dropping by to say so. 🙂
I think the phrase you were looking for at the beginning is 'diminishing returns'.
I see what you mean, and that's a good one, but if you are "investing" materials with a low slope, the returns don't diminish exactly, it's just that after a certain point, they do something entirely different from what you expect.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 is there classification for those low slop materials? How can i know them?
@@AMER-fi3pe You have to test them. There is a short list in the textbook I have, including which I'll copy out, but there does not seem to be a published list. You're looking for long lasting low impact materials like musks, Iso E Super and Hedione.
I've been trying to get some of that rose ultimate extract but can't find it at any of the suppliers here in America. I love a dirty dark rose so it sounds lovely.
It was phenomenally difficult to get hold of. They kept telling my supplier that it didn't exist.
Another great video Sarah and Aurthur. Do you suppose aldehydes are like storm clouds 😉
They are more like thunderbolts. I'm not a big fan. I 😁
Great video! Educative and witty as always. Your B&W bit made me smile quite broadly :) I do relate to the people who fear putting in more Hedione. Guess I should just do more tests and see what happens, how else will I know what the limits are?! thank you
Ah, the reward for making it to the end! Arthur put that piece in there and I didn't know it was happening until it was finished. All I heard was dramatic music, and there it was. It's quite funny isn't it? I live it when people first try a healthy dose of Hedione and the effect is completely different from what they expect.
I agree 100% with what you said about how rose and benzoin add a sense of fullness or completeness to a scent, with one caveat.
I CAN'T STAND aldehydes and benzoin together. 🤢🤮
Horrid. Smells fusty, like moldering old clothes found in an attic.
I can't stand aldehydes. 🤭
👍😊 Thanks ❤️
Glad it's useful.
thank you Sarah
What a very interesting ID you have, 😉 and thank you for watching.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 haha I used to listen to underoath when I was a kid, now it got stuck on me! I do have a question regarding the legality of perfumes, when you add hedione or iso e super, that will dilute the restricted material, and will make it legal, is that what you meant?! however, the overall perfume material concentration in the final product will increase! are there any restriction on that? it's commonly written on the internet that perfume concentration should be about 20%......tbh it kinda feel like cheating, but I still wonder, would I be able to do the same if I add some other carrier such as benzyl benzoate or DPG to dilute the perfume material to make it legal? can I use hedione as a carrier and not use any alcohol at all?!
@@xoxUnD3R0aThxox Right then, it's along those lines. I think we shall make another film about the safety of fragrances and how we work within IFRA and additional EU/UK/FDA/South Korean government regulations.
You wouldn't add the Hedione to the finished fragrance, that would make no difference to the safety levels, it would just make the fragrance last longer and project further, to an extent.
This 20% thing is arbitrary. It's a very rough guildeline, I recently read on a really badly informed perfume brand's website that 25% concentrate is the maximum that IFRA allows in perfume; this is complete rubbish. All fragrances have different maximum levels according to what you put in them. Several of ours are permitted at 100% strength in Category 4 - fragrance - and some at 5%. Each time you make a fragrance, you look at the limiting factors and decide whether or not to change the formulas to make them stronger - or if they are fine as they are.
Take one of ours which is allowed at 100% - would I release it like that? No, because it's a far better fragrances at 15% so I shall release it as an EdP. The one that's allowed at 5% behaves like a parfum at that level (because of Ambrox Super and its magical powers) so I call it an Eau de Parfum too.
Say I'd made a jasmine fragrance and I take it up to the maximum level allowed, jasmine is restricted to 0.6% in the finished fragrance, so if I had 12% in the formula, I would have to dilute it down to 5% to make the fragrance. First, do I like it? (That's most important for me, not its power and presence.) I would then test that fragrance to see how it acted: longevity, sillage, projection, tenacity, whatever you'd like to measure against. Is it enough? Perhaps not.
Hedione has no restrictions on it, so I could take my formula, and add an equal amount of Hedione, so now my jasmine represents 6% not 12% and I can use my new formula at 10% in a finished fragrance. What's more it will probably smell stronger, lighter, fresher and last longer. I could have made a better fragrance that smells a whole lot more wearable. Or not, it would have to be tested, but it's an option.
Benzyl benzoate on the other hand is restricted in perfumery. It is a perfume material in itself, an aromachemical. I don't know what's happened recently, so that benzyl benzoate is suddently getting recommended all over the place, but I'm getting loads of questions about it, and the answer is usually "no". It's not a carrier. For a start it's in dozens of naturals, naturally occuring - in flowers and spices and resins - which means that you have to add up how much your formula contains to check that it doesn't go over the limit. Adding it into a formula would mean that your concentrate would be more restricted in a finished fragrance, not less.
Adding DPG to a formula would mean that you could use more of it in a finished fragrance, but there's not much point because that really would dilute it. It's only a solvent; it has no secret superpowers. The fascinating thing about low slope perfumery materials is that they do have superpowers. You could add DPG but you'd get less of a fragrance. Add equal amounts of Hedione and you get much much more.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 thanks a lot Sarah, you made it crystal clear, I feel privileged that I got an explanation from a professional perfumer such as yourself, I'm proudly a Sarah McCartney apprentice now :D, I'll bother you with a few more questions though :P, I have been researching this question for some time, I started perfume making with just essential oils and a carrier (apricot oil), now that I started to dabble with synthetics such as iso e super, hedione, musks, ambroxan, vanillin, specially vanillin, I ran into solubility issues, so in order to be able to use vanillin, which I absolutely adore, I had to switch to 100% etoh, which is both expensive and very harsh, I can detect the smell of it loudly, which takes a few minutes to fade away, this is why I really prefer perfume oil, which has the added benefit of moisturizing the skin! my questions are: are there other carriers used in professional perfumery besides etoh? if I switch to 95% or less concentrated etoh, would it smell as harsh? are there any advantages to perfumer's alcohol, over 100% pure etoh? finally, another question related to musks, the first three musks I bought, based on recommendations, are galaxolide, exaltolide total and ethylene brassylate, I kinda like them, but I want to expand my must repertoire, there are two types of musky scents that I think are very common, one that has some urine undertones, I don't necessarily like it, but I want to learn what it is, and another that has this sort of vanilla like type odor, I smell it very often on the beach, I wonder what musk it is!
@@xoxUnD3R0aThxox At this point, I would direct you to www.patreon.com/scenthusiasm because we're getting into consultancy. However, the short answer is that ethanol isn't harsh, you just need to give it more time. Leave your testa a month then come back to them and see what happens.
"Education is the best marketing.."
Interesting. Who are you quoting?
@@SarahMcCartney4160 I don't remember where I heard that quote first. Sorry.. I am a huge fan of your videos and will soon sign up for your Scentthusiasm.. thanks for being an inspiration
@@aad5683 Not a problem. I hope it's true. There's some terrible "education" out there which is succeeding far too well on perfumery, but I hope some facts can defeat it.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 roja?
So why no denatured alcohol?
It's already in there.
Do you like acetates? They are so cheap that I'm afraid they'll smell cheap when I buy them.
The price of a perfumery materials bears absolutely no relation to the aroma. Acetates are essential in perfumery but alone they can smell quite odd; we would usually add then in small amounts. My favourite is phenyl ethyl phenyl acetate which smells of honey.
Iso e super and hedione should therefore be called "projectives" since musks are fixatives
That's not what it means. Iso E Super is a fixative.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 Thanks, I am just learning. I thought that fixatives are just musks and resins and that their only role was in blending. So is iso e super unique in this regard or are all fixatives helping with projection?
@@jankucera8505 Hi Jan, this isn't something I can cover in a CZcams comment, sorry. You might find my Scenthusiasm Patreon useful.
@@jankucera8505 I think I might make a whole film about it, as it's a good point you make.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 That's the longest someone has been thinking about anything I've ever said
Rule:4 write the rules down somewhere.... lol
They're in my course books, honest they are. I just change the order sometimes for fun.