How to make a Grojsman accord in perfumery
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- čas přidán 27. 07. 2024
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Video about Formulair, my perfumery app: • I made an app for perf...
Video about hedione: • Famous molecules in pe...
00:00 - Story of the accord
03:40 - Writing the formulas
05:15 - Making predilutions
07:56 - Evaluating the constituents
10:27 - Making the accord
12:17 - Evaluating the accord
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I live very close to IFF in the Netherlands and when I drive past it the car is filled with a disgusting smell of all the smells you can inmagine combined. It makes you instantly understand you can not mix every nice smelling material and expect it to smell good. I love these videos. I am just exploring a potential new hobby and learning as much as i can before buying anything. I am really enjoying this.
Reminds me of Sarah McCartney's "Magical Mystery Material" which is equal parts Hedione, Iso E Super, and Ethylene Brassylate. I've been adding a bit of each to all my recent blends which really helped to 'open' them up. Don't have any Galaxolide or Ionones at the moment but I'll definitely get both soon.
Sounds like that would be a great variation on the accord - I'll have to try it sometime. I'm a big fan of Ethylene Brassylate, more so than Galaxolide
One of your best videos so far! I love the idea of finding interesting and simplistic accords and presenting them. I also love all the details in the place where you film the videos. You are getting better every time. Best Regards.
Thank you very much! Since I changed my setup, this is where I do my perfumery now so it's authentic :)
I read on a basenotes thread that you can make it more masculine by increasing the amounts of iso e and galaxolide etc and less ionone. Etc. I have a more masculine version I use for men’s fragrances and a more equal version for the feminine side. I have used both and love them. They make me feel like I know what I am doing lol. I just decorate the hell out of them
That makes a lot of sense, I can definitely see the ionone making it more feminine. Glad to hear they're both working well for you.
I've just started researching more about perfumery having only bought some essential oils. So I knew nothing and certainly have no idea of smells and blends yet. But I've watched all your videos and your knowledge is fascinating! Thank you for sharing. I hope to start playing around when I've built up enough raw materials 😊
Good luck!
Thanx again for this vdo,Sam.Highly informative as always.Continue the GOOD work..... 🙏
Thank you!
That app is brilliant! You took all the mystery and math out of the formulas I was having trouble understanding. Even though I think I finally figured it out. (Making it harder than it needed to be) but WOW. thank you 4:30
I'm super glad to hear that, it was one of the main goals of the app - to save all the time working out and checking over those calculations.
I am IN LOVE with Galaxolide! To me, this note alone smells like a hug. 😍😍😍
Good to hear you're having better luck with it than me
@@sammacer really??? Aww, how sad 😔
I'm one of those unlucky people that cannot smell Galaxolide at all. Makes it really hard to know when and how to use it.
Yes its amazing. It was the first musk I got and I was like wow I need more of these! Im obsessed with obtaining every musk I can get my hands on now.
@@laurenbray8314 same here, lol
I bought some pipettes from Sams store, great service. On a side note, I'd love to see you making more blends in your videos, personally I learn a lot just watching how people do it and it's a really enjoyable process to watch.
Thank you! And yes, I'm planning on blending in videos more often like I have been since I released Formulair now that I have more time
Thanks Sam, I'd love to see how you take this accord and decorate it with other notes.
That's the plan ;)
I totally agree regarding the description. I have actually made a variation of the accord and I can tell, it is a soft, fluffy, sweet kind f smell with Ionone fruity aspects noticeable for sure. My accord:
Iso E Super 10% 0,500
Galaxolide 50% 0,500
Gamma Methyl Ionon 10% 0,500
Hedione 10% 0,500
I have used a high concentration of Galaxolide and I think it actually works too. In my subjective opinion, this is a sweet, warm fluffy Musk, which I have a trouble with to actually differ it from Ethylene Brassylete. The second one is more vanillic, while Galaxolide seems to be warmer...whatever. I think, this is a decent accord, which can work with rose bases really well, I will try to blend it with it. Very nice vid as always, Sam.
Thank you, good to hear you’re putting in the work!
Definitely going to give this accord a go.
Definitely do! It's a great base where you can add just a couple of other things to make simple but easy, simple yet good smelling perfumes.
Great video as always
Thank you
I love the Rose 🌹 behind
Awesome work, Sam! :) Glad to see this video. Great insights. Would love to see a you modify the Grosjman accord.
A few ideas/suggestions. Bergamot uses Linalool and Linalyl Acetate in roughly 10%/15%, in addition to all other materials (mostly Limonene). I'd like to see how that modifies the Grosjman accord, that Bergamot ratio of Linalool to Linalyl Acetate.
I'd also love to see using Sylvamber and Timbersilk, because they have different amounts of Iso E Super's active ingredient (Patchouli Ethanone). 22% and 15% respectively, compare to Iso E Super's 8%.
Also, replacing Galaxolide with Cashmeran would be very interesting.
And finally, replacing Alpha Iso-methyl Ionone with Violet Leaf Absolute would be interesting as well, just to see how a more complex note would fit in.
Thank you for the suggestions, I will have a think :)
impressed with your explanation. Waiting patiently for Android ver of you app.
Thanks for the support. I still haven't got it in the pipeline but it's also still a possibility
thanks sam... i like your work
Cheers
I have 9 musks so far I think and I've luckily been able to smell all of them really clearly and I'm excited about it lol. Out of what I've bought and tried, only thing I've had trouble detecting is Iso E Super. I had to put some on a strip and leave it sitting on my table for a while to train my nose to detect it.
I'm sure you'll get there with the ISO E Super! Maybe try seeing what effect it has on blends?
hey Sam!
i really enjoy your content, thank you soooo much for all the hard work you put into this channel!
been watching you for about half a year, but this is my first ever comment
it was you who made me interested in scientific part of perfumery and inspired me to try and make something of my own
i’m really really really grateful to you ❤️
i also have a question: could you please share the site where you found the exact formula of the accord? i’ve been watching bk scents and he references these formulas sometimes, but i couldn’t find the site he uses
i would be really glad if you answer
and again, thank you very much!
Hey Даня,
Thank you for supporting the channel, I'm glad you've stuck with it after all this time. Nice to hear you're trying your own perfumery too.
For formulas, they can be a bit tricky to find, however, the method that is usually most successful for me is to go to www.basenotes.net/forums/15-Fragrance-DIY, then to use the search bar to search for what I'm interested in (for example 'grojsman accord') and look through the posts; sometimes people post their formulas. Hopefully this helps!
thank you so very very much, Sam!
Excellent! Many thanks.
Thank you
Very nice dear your very great knowledge i am impress you love you 😄😄
Thank you!
Hi Sam, thanks a million for sharing your information with the rest of the world, very appreciate your effort to make your knowledge available!! I just have a question: which percentage of this accord would you recommend in a fragrance? Thanks in advance!!
No problem! And it’s really up to you - I’ve seen people have success at 90% and at 10%
Hi Sam, I’ve been following you for some time. I just wanted to know if you could give me the exact proportions if I give you the accords. I’m based in India,I’m trying to make the Bjorn Borg Eau de Toilette which comes in a bottle with a Red cap. The perfume is Fresh Citrusy- the Accords are Fresh, Citrus,Spicy,Woody and Green.
Wish there was an Android version of your app. I'd buy it instantly.
Sorry that it's not available, for sure I'm looking at possibilities for the future still
thanks for sharing, great video! I do have one question though, why did you make pre-dilusions of each of the raw materials instead of just mixing the raw materials in the same bottle and adding perfumers alcohol?
The reason is that it allows you to use less raw materials while still being able to weigh them out accurately. This makes it much less expensive to trial a large number of blends.
Is it possible to make it from natural ingredients, oils!?
Thank you!
Hello, Sam!
I like very much your videos. I try to reproduce the Grojsman accord according to your video. I have all the four raw material to this accord, but the Galaxolid is - GALAXOLIDE 50% IPM (IFF). That means I must take 2x the Galaxolide part to the Grojsman accord? What is the meaning of the "IPM" and the "IFF"?
Thanks a lot,
Tom
IFF is a manufacturer, IPM is a solvent. I would recommend you dilute everything down to 10% and try that
Thank you Sam for this video. But I have question; at what dilution should we use it if we will be adding it to a perfume concentrate ? Isn’t 10% a bit low?
You wouldn’t make it like this and then add it to the concentrate - if you’re formulating using a concentrate then you’d make the accord as pure raw materials
awesome informative video!! any chance a desktop and android version of your app is in the works?
I am working on it, but it’s a slow process
Hi Sam,
Im tryimg to make the Grosjman Accord.
What shall I use to dilute my materials, please?
Methyl ionone iso super
Hedione
IES.
Is DPG ok, or carrier oil like coconut oil?
Thank you
Asad
DEP or DPG.. don't use coconut oil or else later it will react and create all sorts of solubility issues..
Not really related to this video. But is there a ingredient that increases volatility of base notes( heavy molecules).
It's interesting, I also first thought that it's more if ionones and then turned to ionone and I noticed tge real diference ! I also tried with ambretolide but it wasnt as comfirting as gakaxolide
Great that your making your own variants, you will learn a lot that way
I'm going to try to make this with Ultralia
I don’t know what ultralia is but good luck!
Hello Sam. I would like to ask You about something, would be nice to get your reply if you do not mind. I am a big fan of the "HUG me" accord, my favorite aftershave has been created around this accord. Mostly hug me accord smells powdery, wet, rose, violet to me, but from time to time I can experience my favorite part of it, it happens while it starts to smell more airy violet, radiating crystal violet a bit camphorous?, transparent, ultraviolet, metallic somehow, addictive, with micro, nano part of raspberry to it. It's not happening often, that's bad :(
Have You ever experienced the same thing with this accord?
if I only knew what to do to highlight right this part :(
do You think could I be iso methyl ionone with pineapple? or myrcenol or citral that creates such an effect? Best Magic Regards
Hmm, interesting. It's hard to know what you're experiencing. But you can try smelling the raw materials alone and then also making versions of the accord missing out each of the materials. That way you can better understand which parts you like and which you don't.
I don't have ionone by hand.. Can't order any new materials rn. Is there any floral replacement? Idk like Mayol, Heliotropex N or Penethyl Alcohol
Unfortunately not!
Subscribed💐💐
Cheers
thanks for your informative share✌
can you tell me how to make a"soft very velvety Jasmin aroma"which ingred I use to those? to create this very sensual Aroma?
You could try adding some musks and Iso E Super to jasmine absolute
Is it possible to make this accord with other ionones? I have almost all of them except for that one.
Yes - it should be fairly similar although it will not be exactly the same. Try using alpha-ionone!
@@sammacer ha…that’s actually the one I used to replicate this accord. Very good floral skeleton for sure, and yes it’s totally something you smell walking by someone
after making that accord can i add some ethanol in it...
Yes, of course, although it's already got some in it but you can add more
Since the structure is difference, does Gamma methyl ionone has the same odour as alpha iso methyl ionone?
Methyl ionone gamma and alpha isomethyl ionone are synonyms for the same molecule
Hi
Ad to 1 drop pure bargamot really fantastic feeling 😊
Assalamualaikum Wa Rahmatullahi Wa Barakatuhu..... 💫💕
*اَلسَّلاَمْ عَلَيْــــــــــــــــــــكُمْ وَ* *رَحْمَةُ اللہِ وَبَرَكَاتُهُ* 💫💞
Sir aap ka whatsapp no mil sakhta hain
Since we seem to have the same scale: Sometimes after I zero out it's not weighing the drops. Ever experienced something similiar?
Yes - you should always lift the vial off of the scale for the first few drops otherwise it thinks it’s nothing and corrects itself to 0
Hey sam i need help regarding perfume making from fragrance oil
Check out my video on fragrance oils
Subbed 👍🏼
Thanks!
I wonder what would happen if you made this but replaced the 10% galaxolide with 10% habanolide
Sam if this request has been asked before I apologize, any plans for your app to be available on windows?
Yeah I have been asked this. I would love to do so and hopefully I can make this happen eventually. Unfortunately it's no where near as simple as it might seem and not something I can do easily or quickly.
@@sammacer Sam I am sorry I went to your website and had I spent a little extra time I would have found your faq explanation as to why this is not in the works for the time being.. thank you for responding.. I and many others I believe would be interested should you change your mind. Thanks for the response.
@@younanm No problem!
I use an Excel spreadsheet that provides the same function.
I hope the app is available on Android😢
Please release your app on Android!
I always thought that she used isomethyl gamma ionone and not the alpha.
There are lots of confusingly similar synonyms for the ionones, there’s another name for this molecule which includes “gamma” in it.
Those bottles should include droppers so we don't throw pipettes too often.
It’s actually a misconception, droppers cause issues
Use Romandolide instead of galaxolide and it takes away the hair spray smell.
I don’t get the hair spray smell from Galaxolide myself but I know a lot of people perceive it differently- sounds like a good idea
@@sammacer I followed your video making Grojman accord, it was excellent and seen someone else use romandolide, my opinion it smells more pillow fresh type of smell, but I found if you take galaxolide out it a little stronger but devine. May be am around my kids more when they use hair spray... Not sure if hair spray is the right way to explain the smell?
Sofia is a Polish perfumer
I thought she was Belarusian
@@sammacer Wtedy to byla Polska ziemia chlopie,ale co ty Angol mozesz wiedziec
@@sammacer she aint polish, your right
How can I contact you man
What about?
@@sammacer
I want to ask a lot of questions about what kind of alcohol I have to use for my perfumes. I want the best alcohol. And what do I add to the alcohol to the perfume oil
Is the the alcohol ethanol the same as ethly or no ?
the core skeleton of dior home is this accord plus leather. voila
👌