Famous molecules in perfumery - Hedione
Vložit
- čas přidán 7. 08. 2024
- My perfumery course: www.perfumerystudent.com/
Shop perfumery supplies: thefragrancefoundry.com/
Download my perfumery app for free: formulair.app/
My perfume brand: zur.ai/
Watch me explain chemical structure diagrams for perfumery: • Understanding molecula...
Common perfumery terms explained: • Perfumery terms explained
How to learn raw materials in perfumery: • How to learn raw mater...
Neuroscience in perfumery: • Level up your perfumer...
Study on hedione: pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25797...
00:00 - Introduction
00:20 - History of Hedione
04:06 - Chemical naming of Hedione
06:27 - Olfactory evaluation of Hedione
13:08 - Hedione usage levels
16:04 - Neurochemistry of Hedione
Join our community of perfume makers on discord to share tips on perfume making: / discord
Listen to the video as a podcast: anchor.fm/sam-macer
Instagram accounts:
@sam.macer - / sam.macer
@zurai.official - / zurai.official
@thefragrancefoundry - / thefragrancefoundry
Starting your own perfume brand? I host my online store with Shopify: shopify.pxf.io/jryWdn
If only chemistry in schools are taught this way, with fragrances to connect the elements together, I'd be hooked with chemistry back in high school
Yeah that would be cool!
Agreed. Chemistry didn’t click with me in school. I started keeping a saltwater tank and suddenly I had real world applications that have me an in.
And same here, there’s a real world reference than provides a way to wrap your brain around it
Brother do not change, your videos are just awesome and informative.
Just keep doing it this way. You might not have so many views like the other reviewers, but who cares.
Yours is pure Quality. Just awesome.
Thanks a lot dude
Too good. Keep up the good work.
@@bennesudhi Thank you
Yes.agree..
I must say Sam, ever since discovering your channel recently, it’s been an absolute godsend! You’re doing great work explaining Perfumery in a way that very few people are doing, I hope you continue doing videos, I’ve learned so much from you already, thank you!
Thank you, very much appreciated, I’m really glad the videos are helping you out! I noticed your channel pop up for me on CZcams a couple of times too. Firstly, congrats on your success, I hope it continues. Secondly, if you would like to do some kind of collaboration then send me a dm or email :)
❤also for me is very very helpful, he is very patient and very smart person
This was so helpful! I have found that I don't like using Iso E super very much, and that Galaxolide is still pretty strong. Hedione is very approachable to me and I don't worry about using too much. Any videos on important aromachemicals are welcome! Particularly the ones that are widely used in perfumery and make it smell "like a real perfume."
That's fair enough - I used to not like Iso E Super so much either but I did always prefer Timbersilk; have you tried that? And for sure I'll do some more videos on widely used aromachemicals that "make it smell like a real perfume" in the future.
@@sammacer Update, please? I'd imagine that's more up the alley of most of your older viewers now.
Great information and insight. Very much appreciated, all of your videos and research help streamline 🙏🏽
Bro, i really really appreciate your Videos and the Work and effort you put into it! THANK YOU!!!!
You have a very good way of giving over information and making it interesting. Good on you.
Thank you, I appreciate it
The best video about Hedione that I ever seen!
Thank you!!
great video - liked the chemistry backround info!
Thanks!
Just found your channel and I love it, I’m learning a lot.
Great to hear
Your content has been SOOO useful to me. Thank you for everything!
No problem, thank you!
@@sammacer as a chef and someone new to perfumery that loves analogies. I was explaining to my friends how I view materials like hedione, galloxlide, iso e super, and Ionones as salt, fat, and acids. Yes alone they impart their own flavors, and in excess they can overpower a dish, but their primary function in most cases is to act as supporting characters. If that’s a good analogy, feel free to use it in future videos. 😂
@@justchefmack4188 Nice analogy! Often ability to distinguish between fragrances and flavours comes together!
Thank you, you're my fav youtuber on perfumery! To the point and clear and simplified.
I was wondering, if you haven't already, if you could do a video on notes in general for groups of fragrances. I feel like you've already covered florals. But could you talk about groups of compounds for say, gourmand fragrances (candy, waffle cone, marshmallow, butter...), tea (bergamot, green tea, chamomile...) fragrances and oceanic/aquatic fragrances or even tobacco, rum, cognac and leather. Would be greatly appreciated! Those are the notes I enjoy the most and was wondering what to buy to start off experimenting with these.
I really enjoyed your single molecule perfume video as well!
Thank you! Yes I had planned on doing a series on aromachemicals for different olfactory groups for a while, it just hasn’t happened yet.
This is seriously the best CZcams account in perfumery category. I am learning so much from you! I'm currently waiting for my first batch of synthetics to learn them, try out some mixes and play around. Hopefully I can make nice perfumes one day!
Thank you! Good luck with your perfumery, I hope you make good progress :)
I was having a vial of Hedione and was not able to smell very well on the strip! after watching this useful minutes I understand the way :) thanks Sam !
very well presented!!
I'm glad I could help!
Thanks for sharing the knowledge so lucidly.
Pls do more vdo's on other materials as well.
Sure thing 👍
I met my life partner by following him for his scent. He was phisically not my type at all. He was wearing Molecule 1, I fell for it hook line and sinker :) thank you for such instructive video!
Everything I've heard about hedione is basically it has almost no smell on its own, but in combination is where it comes out and shines.
You gave such in-depth information. V informative and interesting. So perfumes do affect us neurologically.
Thank you!
Love your videos ❤️
Thank you
Informative vedio 💜
Sam good night! I would like you to make a video for beginners on how to make a super simple but good and effective fougere and chypre accord and how to add the other ingredients, and explain what a blender modifier is, etc.
How do you know so much? I'm only an end user getting into interesting fragrances but the whole perfumery chemistry is quite interesting as I have a science background. I really liked the part of this video on the molecular structures involved in hedione. Great work and best wishes to you.
I mostly taught myself via research but I have a degree in chemistry which helps sometimes. Thank you for the kind words!
Really great information. Thanks. ✅
No problem
Interesting to see your guitar in the background. I think there are some real parallels between music, art, and fragrance.
Wow. 😊 Your video is interesting. Thank you for sharing that important info with us. You're more like a chemist than a perfumer. When I smelled hedione first time, it's already destroying my nose because it's so strong. But I have trained my nose day by day, now I can easily smell it, even without dilution.
Wow, interesting to hear someone have it the other way round
I'm trying to make a summer, citrus freshy. If a fragrance has too much lemon or lime for example I've noticed that the hedion can damping it in a good way, as you mentioned in your video. If I use too much then it really flattens it out. Thank you for your video
Good luck with the perfume!
Hi Sam, I have a serious hedion-related question. I was happy to smell hedion perfectly from the beginning, but now it seems I have a total knockout. So I will wait. Here is what I want to ask you: how do you perceive hedion? Can you smell just the floral jasmin or do you get this wonderful strong "blueish-bitter" component? This is what I am looking for. Are you familiar with ANY aroma chemical that makes this exciting bitter impression? Perhaps even stronger or pure, so I can create a scent around it? Lovely channel, beautiful content. Greetings from Germany.
I am going to use hedione in my rose formulation, I believe this will work very well.
I got a perfumers apprentice kit to learn more about raw materials. I couldn’t smell beyond the alcohol. I’m going to leave the dip stick to dry and see if I can smell it tomorrow or later this evening. Great tip!
Yeah, that’s exactly the thing to do :)
Great Video. Thanks
You're welcome!
Excellent
I have hedione and heliotropene and it’s pretty potent
I came across this video in an attempt to find fragrances with hedione in them... I have a decant of Initio Side Effect... and of all the designer/nichè fragrances I've smelt.. this may be my favorite
Did you find a list of fragrances with hedione in it ?
Thanks for this, looks like a lot of work and thought went into this video. Really cool! Do you think you'll ever do a video about safety and environmental sustainability of our beloved materials, whether synthetic or natural? There's so much to understand and it's all pretty important imo! Natural doesn't mean safe because molecules in wintergreen, oakmoss and bergamot can be dangerous. Natural also doesn't mean sustainable because high demand materials like vanilla and sandalwood pose sustainable harvesting challenges. And synthetic doesn't mean dangerous, because in a lab you can make water with hydrogen and oxygen. But at the same time, when it comes to synthetics, I tend to find myself worrying less about working with molecules synthesized in the lab but exist in nature (vanillin) than I do a molecule that doesn't exist in nature. Is such skepticism reasonable? Do we trust industry giants to practice due diligence with both short and long term safety testing? And how do you recommend the average DIY perfumer or hobbyist approach these questions? What about hedione? Does it bioaccumulate in our bodies? How long does it take the molecule to biodegrade? Is the DIY community even able to access such data if it exists, or is it behind an academic paywall? Thanks!
Hey Johnny,
A lot of questions but I'll try to help. In terms of naturals vs synthetics, I did a section on it in this recent video: czcams.com/video/6eQ1tvb330M/video.html. I'm sure I'll cover it again in the future, though that's most of it right there. In terms of sustainability of raw materials, I'm no expert so I would probably have to wait until I did more research on it. In terms of molecules not existing in nature, I don't think theres much need to be skeptical as there are so many molecules found in nature that the human body has no chance of adapting or being exposed to them all anyway. The molecules not found in nature used in perfumery are structurally similar, i.e. not containing inorganic metals (which could be much more dangerous). In fact, they may well exist in nature after all but just not be discovered yet. For everything regarding due diligence and safety, you need to do your research on 'IFRA standards' and 'GMP (good manufacturing practice)' - there are lots of resources online, unfortunately the content is quite dry to cover in videos, maybe one day though.
Awesome video! I would like to know how to better educate the olfactory receptors. Thank you
Check out these two videos: czcams.com/video/8oiKVBzajYE/video.html and czcams.com/video/uNDK7Atj8S4/video.html
You should do a whole series on famous or popular perfume ingredients.
That was the plan haha, check out the Coumarin video if you didn't already!
Need more information similar for ISO E Super, Galaxolide 50 etc
For sure I will consider it!
@@sammacer Thank YOU.
Ooh do norlimbanol next!!!!
I could - but it’s not a famous molecule! There wouldn’t be enough info for a whole video…
Please make a video of ISO E, hedione and galaxolide.
I hope to cover those at some point for sure.
Dpg oil with hedione how make perfume
Hey!
I don’t understand the 10 min parts there you tell I recommend diluting it down to 10%. can you explain is point please..
I have been wanting to make a cannabis accord, or find a real cannabis material I can use for perfumery. The many strains offer so many different smells and It blows my mind it is so hard to find cannabis materials for perfumery
Unfortunately I have no idea, but maybe this can help: www.basenotes.net/threads/485847-Best-Way-To-Approach-Cannabis-Scent
Very helpful. I can’t smell hedione 😂 feel better to know it’s not uncommon. Hopefully one day I can enjoy its scent.
Keep trying, you will get there!
Hedione reminds me of lightly sweetened floral iced white tea for some reason. Maybe because I associate its smell with Elizabeth Arden green tea.
I like that description!
Hello! I have a question regarding hedione in eau sauvage.
Recently, I went to a perfumery (douglas) to buy specifically Eau Sauvage (because of hedione). They did have it, but I just wanted to make sure that it actually contains hedione, so I went through the "ingredients" written on the box. I was looking for either the word hedione or methyl dihydrojasmonate. However, there was nothing like that. I was looking at it for a long time, but it was just not written there. There were many other chemical compounds, but no mention about hedione.
Does it mean that they stopped putting it to the perfume? Or they just did not write it on the box?
I also went through other perfumes that were supposed to contain hedione too (like L'Eau d'Issey, Acqua di Gio, Voyage d'Hermes and some others), but none of them had it written in their "ingredients" section. I was pretty shocked, to be honest.
I will appreciate your reply very much.
By the way, I like your informed scientific approach in this video.
Ahh, you're making a common mistake. The only things listed on the box are allergens which you must legally list. The formula is kept entirely secret and therefore the only way you can find out if something's in it is a scientific analysis. If it's well known that hedione is in it online then it likely is the case
@@sammacer Thank you very much for your response!
Damn a year to smell hedione bro. I smelled it the frist time and damn it smells gooood
Can you layer hedione like you would iso e super under perfumes?
Yeah sure why not
Hi Sam. When i was searching for Hedione in a supplier (De Hekserij) i found that they have Hedione and Hedione HC. Wich one would you recommend and, are they used in the same way? Thanks alot for your great videos.
They are both very similar, but you can think of HC as a 'higher quality' version. Technically all it means is that it's a version higher in the cis-isomer, which is meant to smell better.
@@sammacer Thanks. I'll go with the HC, then
15:25 is the percentage including the the ethanol?
Not in this case
Sam , deberías hacer tus videos una versión traducida al español para América Latina , realmente la necesitamos ,excelente tu trabajo de divulgación .
Thanks! You can use the auto generated captions :)
Hi !
Can you make a videos what molecule for trigger the pheromone in humans?
And also please make a videos about heliotrope
Thanks a lot
I'm not sure there's that much research showing pheremone effects from aromachemicals. Heliotropin is interesting so maybe sometime :)
@@sammacer thanks you
Hey Sam which fragrence have the Most hedione in it ?
No idea, sorry
you should be a perfume professor!
Thank you :)
Awesome video, Sam! Thanks! Learned a lot from this one.
Could you please make a video on Linalool, Linalyl Acetate, and how they impact the scents of Bergamot, Lavender (and maybe even Brazilian Rosewood) ? I've seen your video on Citruses and Aromatics, and those were great, but something more focused on those raw materials would be awesome. Especially because Lavender and Bergamot are two of the most common and widely used ingredients in perfumery since the 1700s at least. (They're also used in Chypre and Fougere fragrance families, two of the most well-known perfumery accords.)
I'd also love to see videos on other materials. All of the Ionones, all of the Irones, Iso E Super (and similar materials), for example.
I'd also like to see more fragrance family videos, like this: Musks, Ozonic/Aquatic, Metallic, Fruity, Oriental/Spices, etc.
Hi Jay, thanks for the suggestions. I think you have some great points, I will certainly consider doing some videos on these topics. I was planning on doing a series on aromachemical families so that would fit in nicely.
where do i buy hedione, iso e super or ambroxan, gallaxolite etc?
Try perfumers apprentice, Pell wall or similar
Hi do you sell hedione?
Why do you dilute everything in ethanol? Is it ok to dilute it in D.P.G.?
Ethanol is the solvent for perfume. DPG can be used in some cases but it makes the perfume sticky so should be avoided where possible
If one can afford it is it better to use jasmine EO ?
Usually jasmine absolute would be used
Can you please share link to that study.
Sure, here you go: pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25797832/
Sam I'm interested in making hedion but I don't know where to go . I mean to say please recommend some books or site or ytube where I go and study according to my interests . Please
You want to make the molecule? You should look at the chemical literature online!
@@sammacer yes , thankeww 💜
How do I check if my hedione is original or fake?
If would be difficult without a lab and extensive chemistry experience. Your best bet is to buy from a reputable supplier in the first place.
How is a perfume that's 65% Hedione an Eau de Toilette? Am I missing something here?
Did Comme des Garçons mean that they used it at 65% of the base oils, and then diluted that down to EDT levels with alcohol?
Yes exactly, 65% of the concentrate not of the final product. Often formulas are written like that in the industry.
I can't smell hedione on myself, but I smell it in its pure form in a bottle. Whereas iso e super I smell so strongly it could be a wood essential oil. Its really quite strong to my nose, and I'm impartial to the smell of it which is a shame.
Never smell it straight from the bottle! Not surprised you can't smell anything...
Thanks Sam for what you do on CZcams, your videos are very informative and well done, you deserve success, I would like to ask you if Hedione you use at 0.1% in the formula is it diluted at 10% or pure, thanks from Italy.
Thank you! And the dilution at the start doesn’t matter, it’s only the final dilution. You could make 0.1% in the final product using either 10% or pure, just depends on the amount you use
How make perfume hedione with dog oil
What will happen if i use it in any perfume? 😅
Hedione - if it’s such a subtle aroma and used in low levels wouldn’t it be simply drowned out by the essential oil’s?
It’s not usually used for it’s own smell, but it’s effect on blends
@@sammacer does it change the molecular structures of the oils ?
@@atmakali9599 No it doesn't, it's all about how our brains perceive combinations
Jasmin oil is not expensive and true scent of jasmine flower is not possible I think
I dont smell it at all. Maybe an extremely faint jasmine scent. I always add it though, its a pheromone
Did you try any of the tips from the video?
Good video!
To me, Hedione actually smells like balloons :D
Haha
@@sammacer sry, I misremembered it. Jasmatone smells like balloons.
Please taking hindi
I don’t speak it
Thanx for a great informative channel i was wondering about the raw material of carrot essential oil and Hennah in my nose opinion they smell like light Agarawood, i used them as a top note in some of my experemental creations please provide me with your feedback on those materials ❤ thanks🌹🪷
Great sam its better if i smell hedione at first place we'll see 🙈🥲