Fish CONFIDENTLY With Lead Free Leaders (+ Splice Your Own!)
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- čas přidán 15. 05. 2024
- Here’s a comprehensive guide to ready made leaders and how to splice your own
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Lead free leaders are a great way to keep your rig concealed from the carp. They do this by following the contours of the lake closely. They’re made from abrasion resistant woven fibers which are denser than water. This means that they sink naturally. I’m going to show you how to use a ready made leader that you might buy off the shelf then I’m going to show you how to splice your own leader to perfectly suit every angling situation.
⏰ Timecodes
00:00 Introduction
00:20 Ready made leaders
00:31 How to tie a lead free leader to your mainline
01:28 What not to do
02:16 How strong is a spliced leader
03:06 What length for the splice
03:55 Limitations of ready made leaders
05:11 How to splice leaders
🐟 The tackle I use in this video:
Cling-On leader 40lb: amzn.to/3RbwJ3j
Splicing needle: amzn.to/3PZMysZ
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Magnetic bivvy tray: amzn.to/3pNUqDe
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I’ve been using lead free leaders for many years now and I’m so glad that I switched over from traditional leadcore. I used the Nash cling-on 40lb version in this video but I also use the 65lb version when conditions dictate. Modern lead free materials are very supple, easy to splice, hard wearing and can be re-used countless times.
Been using Tungsten core leaders for over 10 years now preferred core.
Years, and years ago before there were leaders, we used to use hollow Fly Line and insert black Amnesia to stiffen it up, but it was very, very difficult to try and splice, then rub putty up and down the leader we had made.
I still have one in my never throw away box of bits.
Wow, that sounds rather technical but back in the day you had to use whatever you could!
I really love your videos mate,simple and right way
Thanks very much mate, great to hear 👍
As usual Matt, a simple and straight to the point fishing lesson.
Thanks very much mate, much appreciated!
Great as always! Thank You Matt.
Thanks for the support Mariusz 😊
Very simple and straight forward explanation on how to splice, thanks Matt.
Thank you Phil 😊
Great video, given me much more confidence to start using them safely 👍
That’s great to hear mate, that's what the video was all about really. I’ve been using them safely for years. Cheers, Matt.
Great video pal! Never spliced leaders before so be handy when I need too.
Cheers Luke 👍
Another great video filled with useful tips 👌
Thanks very much mate 👍
Great video Matt most informative
Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed it 😊
Can't remember if I have already commented but glad I watched this video, it's given me the confidence to use leaders for my PVA bag fishing and has helped catch me more fish, so thank you 😁
Great to hear mate, thanks, glad it's helped you out!
Another excellent video Matt. All my running rigs are made from the Nash Cling On material. Historically I’ve tended to struggle with splicing needles, I can highly recommend The Fox Splicing Tool if, like me, you struggle with the needles👍
Good to know the Fox needle is decent. When I first started using leadcore (many years ago!) I used the ESP ones but they broke really easily. I then tried the Korda one and that was better but I still broke a few. I switched over to the Nash needle two years ago and I’m still on the same one so that's another decent option. Cheers, Matt.
Great video again Matt as always. I have used lead free leaders in the past but not much anymore. I had some issues with them in the past using my bait boat. Because they are very supple and not as heavy as leadcore leaders they can get sucked into the jet engine and wrap around the propeller. It happend to me on several occasions. No problems with them with casting though.
I also make a somewhat longer splice where the lead goes. Using a heli set up it holds the top bead better.
Looking forward to your next video Matt. Always leaning something 👍.
Hi Louis, I use a bait boat regularly with a leadless leader and I’ve never had a problem but my Anatec is prop driven. I can see having the leader sucked into the jet would be a major headache! Perhaps a fused leader would solve this problem? I know exactly what you mean with the longer top splice. It all depends on what beads you are using with regards to the fit etc. Cheers, Matt.
Awesome video one of the best
Thanks very much 😊
Awesome. Very important information. Thank you.
I do have a question though , does this work with the leaded leader too?
Hi mate, the procedure is quite different for lead core as you need to remove the lead from the core in order to make the splice. You also need to hold the lead in place or it will move on you. Harder to learn and do compared to leadfree but it’s not too bad. I much prefer lead free leaders as they follow the contours better. Over time the outer sleeve on lead-core wears and the lead itself can poke through the material. This can potentially be dangerous. You’re also adding lead to an aquatic environment which is never ideal. Personally I wouldn't swap back to leadcore since discovering lead free material. Hope that helps. Cheers, Matt.
I'm going to use a leader tonight for the very first time on my local canal.
I've been fishing it for weeks now and haven't been able to catch a carp .
They're there . I can see them and they're picking up my bait but spitting it out .
So the guy in the tackle shop has shown me the rig he uses, and he kindly made me a lead free leader to try out tonight.
Fingers crossed 🤞
Good luck mate. I’m not sure the lead free leader will make a difference 🤔 In my experience, it’s not the rig that can change a session, it’s the lead setup 😊 I find running rigs much more effective than lead clips.
I loop to loop my mainline to the leader. That way i can quickly change the leader if i need to.
Thank you
thank you Sir.
You are most welcome.
Hi mathew, just trying these out recently as i found leadcore is inhibiting my casting a fair bit. Also concerned in soft silt it might be sinking into it over time. Do you think the extra suppleness means more prone to tangles with it? Also a friend of mine said leadcore is far better as the weight helps set the hook? Would you agree on this also
Hi mate, I used to use leadcore but I swapped to lead free leaders many years ago and I wouldn’t swap back. My normal leader length is 90cms. At that length, they will have an effect on my max range but it should only be a few yards. In extreme circumstances, I have used them as short as 45cms to maximise casting distance. Even if the leader sinks into silt a little bit, that’s not a bad thing. I’m never worried about tangles when I’m using lead free material, tangles have nothing to do with the suppleness or stiffness of the leader. If you’re worried about tangles, use a 0.50 mono hooklink (like the Nash heavy duty snag leader). The weight of the leadcore has very little to do with the hooking of the carp, that’s what the semi tight clutch is for.
Hi ya mate, told you I've been catching up on your content. I've just got onto a lake and your actually allowed leaders!!! It's my first time using it and spicing. What's your take on the classic palomar knot for joining to the mainline. Its ritch by the way incase it's come up with something odd 😂
Hello mate! Nice to see you here and to see that you're getting back into your fishing! The trouble with the Palomar knot on a leader is that you have to pass the whole leader and rig through the loop of the Palomar. Sure, you can do a Palomar to start with with just a bare leader but if you have to do a cut and shut and reconnect the mainline to the leader, then it's going to be a pain. The 5 turn uni knot is the best option I've found, you still have to test every one. Good luck on your new water mate and keep me posted 👍
That's a good point, it wouldn't slip on against the leader would it.
I will mate. Can't wait to get a bend back in the rods 😊
I do a simple but very strong connection from my main line to any leader, I’ve had cats over 100lb and carp upto 50lb. I double up my mainline then pass that through the leader or swivel on the leadclip then do a simple over hand knot, before I pull the knot tight I pass the opposite end of the leader or swivel through the loop at the end of the mainline created by doubling up my main line that I started with. Wet the knot and pull tight. Job done. Ur mainline will snap before that knot will come undone, it’s impossible for it to come undone as it would have to reverse the knot and pass the leader back through. One simple knot that never fails me with the biggest of fish
Interesting, thanks for sharing. Sounds like the Palomar knot to me? Good to know it's plenty strong. I’ll have to give it a proper test myself when I’m next out. Cheers, Matt.
@@matthewcollinsangler yes, sorry I couldn’t remember the name of it. I’ve just watched a video you made in this 1 year ago. Such a simple knot and never fails
Is this not the palomar knot I've always used that knot for my connection and not had a problem yet 🤞
@@DavidBrown-nk9ve Hi David, yes this is the Palomar knot. Not used it myself for a leader's knot yet but good to know that it's strong. Cheers, Matt.
Fishing again for the first time since I was a kid, I’m trying to pick up some skills. That was a really good video tutorial, thank you!
Question: does it matter if my main line is lower break strain than the leader?
Hi mate, thanks for the feedback, glad that you enjoyed it. I know it might seem counterintuitive compared to how you used to fish but yes it’s okay for the mainline to be of a lower breaking strain than the leader or even the hooklink. I know the whole breaking strain thing is very confusing and we will try and do a video on it at some point.
In modern carp fishing we choose materials to do the job we need to do regardless of the rated strain.
For example this week I was fishing a park lake with 12lbs Bullet mainline (so I could cast a decent distance), the leader was 40lbs Cling-on (for fish flank protection and to lie very flat across the bottom near the rig) and the hooklink was 30lbs (0.50) heavy duty snag leader to make up a simple D rig for a single 24mm Scopex Squid bottom bait. The 30lbs mono is designed as a leader material but I use it for hooklink because it’s much cheaper than fluoro and just as tangle resistant. It’s also plenty tough enough for use on a park lake (which I knew nothing about) but I guessed there were probably bream, chub, crays and poisson chat present which are notorious for screwing with supple rigs. For the lead system I used a free running ledger with a large bore plastic ring so that it I did snap off (unlikely but possible) the leader and any mainline left will fly through the ring with virtually no resistance thus freeing the rig from the lead and rendering it safe. I also use barbless for extra safety. Hope that helps! Cheers, Matt.
@@matthewcollinsangler That’s a massive help - subbed to the channel Matt, you’re a great teacher!
@@LordMarps Cool, thanks for subscribing 👍 (If you ever fancy a chat in more detail about any aspect of your fishing, I now offer 1 to 1 video calls where I can go into much more detail on any subject of your choice)
@@matthewcollinsangler Spot on, thanks Matt. Might take you up on that!
@@LordMarpsOK mate, I do a lot of face to face tuition at my lake and now the video calls are working great as well 😊
@matthewcollins Can you help if possible? I’ve tied a simple grimmer knot to an esp leadfree leader, but on tightening down to the loop on the leader it all works fine. Yet the knot moves if I slide it up and down? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Okay. If I understand you correctly it sounds like you aren't tightening the knot down properly. If by simple grinner you mean the single grinner or uni knot (just one pass through the loop of the leader before you tie the knot), then that’s the best knot to use to connect the mainline to a lead free leader material. Don’t use the double grinner: it’s harder to achieve strong knots consistently.
You need to use a leather glove and a bankstick (or similar) with the mainline wrapped around it (as I show in the video) and pull really hard. You should apply 70-80% of the rated breaking strain of the mainline to tighten the knot. If you do this and the line breaks then there is something wrong with the way you are tying the knot. I break about 50% of the knots I tie but as I test every single knot, they never fail in a fishing situation because they’ve been tested. Best of luck, Matt.
@@matthewcollinsangler Thank you Matthew! I’ve cracked it!
Hi Matt just a quick question, say there was a snap off how safe is it for the carp, will they be towing around lengths of leader?
Thanks
Hi Luke, if you are using a semi fixed rig (lead-clip) or a running lead setup then yes. What’s important is that they won’t be towing a lead as it will slide off the leader and line seconds after the take. Nowadays I use barbless hooks. So in case there’s a line failure, the carp will get rid of the hook easily and therefore of the leader as well.
To minimise the risk of line failure, I’m very particular about what mainline I use and how it’s connected to the leader. I have found that mainline knots really well to lead-free material and it’s fairly simple to achieve a high knot strength. Hope that helps! Cheers, Matt.
Use the PB Products hit and run system. You can fish a leader like this and fish won't be towing it round.
Hi Mathew have used lead free leaders for a few years myself love the suppleness, my problem with it is the needle knot when tightening the knot it always slips and comes undone,maybe it’s not for lead free or I’m making a hash of it best wishes
Hi Peter, one of my river carping guests had a go at the needle knot and got snapped up first try. TBH I think the knot just came undone. Personally I’ve never used it or tried it. If you splice your own, tie a standard uni knot to the loop in your mainline. It’s an easy way of creating a very strong and reliable connection. Cheers, Matt.
Hey Matt, what size leader would you use at medium range, on a Heli setup? Also, I always worry that the last part of the leader is not on the deck, specially tight or semi slack lines, cheers
Hi Danny, I’d always use the lightest leader you can get away with based on what you are fishing over. My go to choice would be the Nash Cling-On in 40lbs and I’d use 1m of material to make a leader of approx 90cm. If the area you are fishing on is just open water, and firm then TBH I wouldn't worry too much. However there are some options for trickier situations. Nash makes various types of tungsten oval beads that can be threaded onto the mainline or onto the back of the leader. These come in sizes up to 8mm so they add quite a lot of weight to the back end of the leader. I don’t use these as I’m usually using a running lead setup. I can’t have anything extra on the leader as it would create a dangerous rig. You could use these if you were using a lead clip though. The other option is a 6mm bore bead on the knot and then a flying back lead. Hope that helps. Cheers, Matt.
@@matthewcollinsangler nice one cheers Matt! This helps a lot
Hi Mathew, can you help, I came back to this clip to "master" tying my own leaders which is tricky but rewarding when it goes right however, followed the steps to the letter and when I pull each end it's rock solid and doesn't move at all but sometimes, for no apparent reason one "end" just seems to slip out not giving me a great deal of confidence Cheers
Hi John, all I can say is that if you pull on one side of the loop, you will pull it out but if you pull the whole loop with a swivel, it locks together. Hope that helps!
Hi, What sort of range is ok to use a medium weighted bobbin without lifting the leadfree leader from the deck? Cheers
Hi Luke, hmm tricky one that one lol. Not really possible to answer TBH as there are too many other factors to consider. It depends on how deep the venue is, whether you are back leading or fishing tight lines. It depends on the nature of the lake bed, flat, lumpy or like an egg box. Is it gravelly or silty, is there weed? It depends on where you are fishing, open water, far margin etc. The list goes on lol. For more insights into this subject I suggest you watch this video if you haven’t found it yet: czcams.com/video/VdeLpRcrhwo/video.html Sorry I can’t be more precise. Cheers, Matt.
@@matthewcollinsangler Thanks Matthew for your reply.
I have a spool of fox lead core, can I remove the lead and use it as a leadless leader?
A leadcore leader has lead in it because the outer material isn’t heavy enough and doesn’t sink by itself. So even if you manage to take the lead out, it may be abrasion resistant but it won’t sink. Leadless leaders are made from special fibres that are denser than water which is why they don’t need to contain any lead.
Beste matt vraagje is de 65 lb cling on leader te veel van het goede ik vis namelijk niet op rivieren wel vis ik vaak tegen opstakels en vis ik op wateren waar veel mosselen voorkomen wat zou u aanraden.alvast bedankt voor u reactie
So for general carping, I use the 40lb cling on leader version. When I’m faced with zebra mussels and rocks I actually tend to use 8 - 10m of Nash heavy duty mono snag leader in 30lbs - 40lbs. I have a running lead sliding on this with a rotten bottom connection for extra safety. The mono leader goes down to a buffer bead and the mainline swivel directly. I don’t find the need to use a 65lb cling-on leader in addition to the mono leader. For more info. On this setup watch: czcams.com/video/NzmQgIiwFI0/video.htmlsi=3oyGwIw89hKmpeNg
Hi, Matt, it's my first time splicing and I am finding when i pull on one end of the looped splice when not under tension it will pull out, when I pull on both looped ends together like on a knot pulling tool it is solid and wont budge. Is this normal. I am using ESP and Nash cling on with the same results. Hope this is understandable. Thanks.
Hi mate, yeah don’t panic, that’s exactly what I would expect to happen. It’s just how a splice works. It’s useful actually as it means you can adjust them a bit. You do need to keep an eye on splices as they can move a bit over time. Still my favourite method of fishing though. With a bit of practice you’ll soon get comfortable with the method. Be sure to use the right knot mind. Uni knot is good as is the Palomar. Do not use the half blood knot! Cheers, Matt.
@@matthewcollinsangler Brilliant!. Thanks Matt, It was driving me mad, thinking I may be doing something wrong. It seems strange it can loosen like that, I just need to get comfortable with it as you say. Thanks again, and thanks for all your tips and tricks, it's my first port of call.👍
It’s all about practice mate 😉 Glad the channel helps you in your fishing!
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Great video, bit disappointed that you didn't mention that a swivel or quick link would also compromise the safety of a helicopter rig. It's a shame you can't needle knot it like you can leadcore as well. Personally I'm not a fan of leadfree as when it is slack it is only too quick to tie itself in a massive knot, so I will always opt for leadcore where rules allow
Hi Robert, thanks for commenting. You are absolutely right of course about how dangerous the addition of a swivel would be on a helicopter setup so apologies for the oversight on that one! I know what you mean about how lead free can tie itself in a knot when slack but by the same logic leadcore can get these twisted kinks which can also pose problems. They are rare but I’ve seen it. Could just have been the leadcore I was using at the time of course.
@@matthewcollinsangler no worries, with lots of "green" anglers in the sport these days, I felt it was worth a mention. I've used leadcore for around 2 decades, and while I'm aware of the risks, I've never had safety issues with it, in the last 18 months of using leadfree for helicopter set ups, due to a leadcore ban, I've seen multiple safety issues with it once it goes slack, tying itself around the swivel on the rig, tying around a pectoral fin when a fish threw a paddy in the net. How it does it I don't know, but I'm not a fan, so much so, I'm currently experimenting with a tubing kits for the helicopter set up
@@robertperkins923 I’m surprised you’ve had issues with lead free. I’ve been using it for the last 6 years at all sorts of venues without issue. The first thing I do is unhook the fish in the net (I’m using barbless so it’s quick and easy) and yes sometimes the lead free does tangle around my fingers that’s why I need it gone ASAP. Personally I hate tubing and I’ve certainly seen it used dangerously especially in combination with a lead clip.
@@matthewcollinsangler agreed, I never understood the use with a leadclip where it can slide up the mainline, I'm only trying it because it's a choice of that, leadfree or fused leaders, the later have parted on me in the past, so I have trust issues there, the particular kit I'm using is ok so far, but there's room for improvement
Make my own and only use for chods or hele rigs would never use them with clips like I see some people use them ,has to be about fish safety too.
I used to use the Korda dura kord but after using it for a while I tested it and found that it floated and I hate using leaders from now on
Hi mate, I used the Durakord and the Cling-on for years and there’s nothing wrong with either of them. Any leadless leader material will float when it’s dry as air gets trapped in the weave. You don't have to do anything special, just use the product as shown and when it’s fully submerged it will sink and follow the contours if you pay out a bit of slack 👍
@@matthewcollinsangler thanks a lot mate I’ll try it again then but unfortunately I now have to blame something else for my blanking
@@georgesepe1375 Blanking is part of fishing… Having said that, when guests at my lake struggle, it’s usually to do with: hooks, rig mechanics and lead setup. Timing and location also play a big part. If you haven’t seen them, these videos may help you:
czcams.com/video/p_Gq4TGZ0ms/video.html
czcams.com/video/LzFina92brM/video.html
czcams.com/video/NzmQgIiwFI0/video.html
All the best mate.
@@matthewcollinsangler thanks allot mate your videos are very helpful
Brilliant video I never use any links or swivels to join my main line I got some ridgemonkey lead free leader in the bin now never change from fox again. Please try splicing absolute nightmare. Love watching your videos very informative 👌
Haven’t tried the Fox one, I use the Nash cling on and find it very easy to splice.
Thanks I'll try it👍
Amateur carp angler here. Why would I use leader against let’s say dark matter braid? Just for specific rig set ups? Sorry for the stupid question
Hi Bobby, no problem with your question. You’re talking about 2 different products. Dark Matter is a braided hooklink similar to the Armourlink that I use for the rig, it’s only used below the lead to the hook. A leader is used above the lead between the mainline and the hooklink. Lead less leaders are made from a heavy material that’s woven into a hollow tube making it splicable. It’s a much thicker diameter than hooklink which makes it safer for the carp during the fight. Hope that helps. Cheers, Matt
If the lake your fishing says no braided leader does this include this leader
Hi Sam, to be honest, as a fishery owner, the answer is debatable. Best thing to do is to ask if lead free leaders are allowed. Cheers, Matt
Only carp fishing is like this. I've caught everything on regular mono or regular braid. Just don't see the point in all this tbh. Have spliced leaders for sharks though. However I had more faith in an FG knot. Nice method for making a spliced connection.
Not certain about the following the contours of the lake stuff Matt.
Do you have diver i can borrow, bedding it into the silt, and clearing the weed out the way.
Really ?
TT.
Adding swivels to the top of a leader isn’t safe methinks
You are absolutely correct, adding a swivel to the top of a leader is very dangerous and should never be done - and that’s what I say in the video czcams.com/video/WiqE4u35MK8/video.html
Just make a figure of eight loop and go loop to loop that is always the strongest. Lol you just said it after i send it haha.
haha 👍
Hi Mat. Could you fish a chod rig on a lead free leader?
Yes mate, no problem 👍