David Brown , Part 4 The big clean up
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
- In this video we spray the fenders and dashboard, we reassemble the dashboard with new gauges and dials, we repair the lifting mechanism removing the play and we spray the engine and chassis
I really can understand a yearly maintenance turning into a full-on restoration. This man will be working the fields in style. Great job.
Thanks for the comments
Thats a lot of work.Color looks good. I find it funny how they always stop looking like tractors to me when the wheels are off.
Thanks for the comments, indeed they look like a boat engine...
The lift arms on my 995/996 are reversible, cat 1 is in one end and cat 2 on the other. They are meant to swap out. You can see the lift arm attachment pins on the tractor has 2 diameters to accommodate both ends of the lift arms. Beautiful work!
Indeed, and I was not aware of that ... much appreciated
Nice work Mr. Steve. Came to Portugal take care my DB 780. I pay the vacation
hahaha, If I only had the time
For those who have never worked on or around tractors, this all may seem a bit extreme, but I can tell you that making an old tractor new again is as much fun to me as fixing up an old car. It's looking good. Regards, Solomon
Thanks for the comments
Awesome work; this tractor is looking great and will give you many more years of service. Thank you for sharing your fascinating journey!
Thank you very much!
manufacturers should sponsor you, especially is they have well made parts..you would give an honest thoughts..good/bad..on said parts...your expertise is well regarded..and appreciated...
Thanks for the comments, I know but I try to keep my neutrality. I have done a few video's for a shop once. They were honest and to the point, and that did not ast long with the shop as I could not say what I was thinking of the products. So, I quit.
that cool. I should do the same for my old fergunson. I didn't know there was proper paint for tractors.🥰
Thanks for the comments, oh yes there is...have a look at histoparts
Thank you for this video. It is always so nice to see your work and see old machines appreciated. I really liked the brown color and did not expect that. Keep up the great work!
Glad you enjoyed it!
50+ yrs ago my father and uncle were tenant farmers and we ran both an 880 and 990 David Brown Tractors. The engine colour was just as you have used and I always liked it. It think it will tend towards a deep purlpe in daylight and it will look period correct. Good choice!
Thanks for the comments
Tractor looks nice, it is a very solid machine and should give good service for a long time. Thanks for posting, cheers.
Thanks for the comments
Hlo sir I'm ur new subscriber
From india .tamilnadu
Thanks and welcome
Great work as always Thanks for sharing 🇦🇺👍
Thanks for the comments
Very beautiful work as always . The last part will be awesome keep up the good job Steve . Have a nice day !
Thanks, you too!
Hello,the lift arms on those tractors are reversible cat 1 on one side cat 2 on the other.
Thanks for the comments, and yes I just found out ....
Fantastik videos you do, and these on the tractor is right down my alley, since i have a DB 990 Implematic my self.
The lifting arms are originally CAT. 1 in one end and CAT. 2 in the other, and designed to be flipped around to acommodate implements of both types...
I can highly recommmend the british David Brown group on Facebook. There you'll find all the documentation on the 990.
Cheers from Denmark, keep up the good work🚜🚜💪💪
wow, that is good to know... I checked mine and that might be right on this one also...to late now. Thanks for the comments
Another amazing restoration of a working vehicle.Well done and congratulations on a superb job!
Glad you enjoyed it
@@D3Sshooter next video david brown 990 tractor origanal driver seat repair
cheers Steve, another great video, it's alsways good to see other peoples solutions to everyday problems that we all face, i've just started the rebuild of my 990, so I'm a little way behind you,
many thanks keep up the good work
Thanks 👍 and good luck with your rebuild...
Nice job on drilling these holes sideways through the pins, seems right in the center. Good eye! It does not matter much for this application of course, but if you wanted to be very precise, and you likely know this already, but for others clumsy and half-blind like me, there is a good trick and easy since you have a lathe: cut off a small slug from the same rod, make sure the ends are clean and perpendicular, drill a hole along the center axis with the lathe and use that vertically in the drill press vise on top of the pin you need to drill. The diameter should be exactly the same so they will be held fine in the vise, and then drill though using that slug as a guide. You can even do it with a hand drill at that point. The hole will be right in the middle of the bottom pin and vertical. Added: another faster less exact way is to use a small flat plate, set it on top of the horizontal rod and bring the drill bit (or some sort of pointer) down on the plate. If not right in the middle, the plate will tilt. Move rod sideways. When it doesn't tilt, you are in the middle.
Thanks for the comments, very good tip....learning from a pro.....
Looks good I can remember older red 990's and the later white DB's of the 60's & 70's when I was a much younger
man my father was a Fordson man when we lived on a smaller 300 acre farm then when I was 5 we moved to 1000
acre farm where he used International tractors.
How's old rusty getting on?
Have a good day from NZ.
Thanks Graham, Indeed Red seems to be the color for the early 990// Old Rusty is next up, as I will start on the chassis
Great work mate. I myself have been repairing an old David Brown. Those lift arm bolts are a real pain in the ass took me several days to work them lose a little bit of heat and plenty of crc broke them free. Keep up the great work
Thanks, so I am not alone....
Great detailed explanations & excellent video editing, thanks.
Glad you liked it!
Your videos are fantastic, thank you.
When we finally get a 990 I will be following your excellent advice!
Thanks for the comments
Coming along nicely
Yep, Thanks for the comments
Perfect job love the brown color
Thanks for the comments
Great work Steve. I love the paint colour for the chassis and engine. It is a David BROWN tractor and with the shade of white used it is going to look awesome.
Thanks for the comments
Correct colours tin work orchid white same for the wheels engine chassis and backend chocolate brown exhaust and large front grille poppy red with orchid white strip in the centre small top grille south African gold hope that's helpful 😀
Sweden here again. Now I have seen 4 videos.
And now I'm starting to get thoughtful ??
Very often you say this should not be a "showroom" tractor. It's a working one. 🤔 And in my eyes, this is so far just a "showroom" tractor! With all the work you put in. So please show what a "showroom" object is in your eyes😉
Thanks for the comments , well show room is tractor without dents, 100% clean and never been put to work, never gets dirty.. Mine , well its been put to work last week after its rebuild
There should be an adapter available to go from a Category 2 to a Category 1 3point hitch system. I believe it is a bushing that gets pinned to the Cat1 mounting pin on the equipment.
Thanks for the comments, that would be good if that is available,. but to late now....
Yes you can buy them www.ebay.co.uk/itm/233837366183 your lift arms could be reversible, the ones on my 1394 are... I've also had to replace worn pins like you...
Actually I think your lift arms were reversible CAT 1 tractor end and CAT 2 implement end. There is a double ended pin on the tractor end, designed to suit both. Mine were worn and I got new from David Brown parts. Since you have a laithe you could make new to a better fit...
@@choochie4 My thought excactly.
They are reversible. Quite a nice trick 👍
But get a couple of sets if you use them, as if you lose one it can be a pain (when I say lose I mean my dad takes them for his topper!)
You might like to look at those warning light bulbs again. Bayonette or screw-in.
Thanks for the comments
A rod end bearing, also known as a heim joint or rose joint, is a mechanical articulating joint. Such joints are used on the ends of control rods, steering links, tie rods, or anywhere a precision articulating joint is required, and where a clevis end is unsuitable.
Thank you for the explanation, something new that I learned.
Great job, well done
Thanks for the comments
Another great video keep it up
Thanks for the comments
I know them as Rose joints.
Aha Rose joints.... Thanks
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it
thats a great job well done
Thanks for the comments
Die bouten kunnen vervormd zijn tijdens jaren lange slijtage. Dus die zitten dan op slot. Verhitten en eruit persen denk ik. Hoop dat je er uit komt. Groetjes van uit Nederland,, Kitty.
Bedankt Kitty...
"I don't know how hard it'll be to take apart".... as the whole mechanism falls apart from worn parts...... LOL
I don't know if there's a particular name for those eyelets - I've just known them as Spherical Bearings, but I haven't worked on farm or heavy machinery.
Thanks Norm, that is the thing with old tractors... there is a lot to fix . The good thing is, you always can
@@D3Sshooter You're right - you CAN fix them! That's one big problem that they're finding with lots of the New ones - they're so computerized that even little problems (like changing tires) mean you HAVE to take it back to the dealer for THEM to do it, or the computer won't let it run! MAJOR Stupidity!
great video
Thanks for the comments
I used to use type one to type two bushes just slip them on the pin
Yes, i do the same since i need the type 2 for some of the farmers equipment, the type 1 is to weak for it.
(But of course it will do fine for the hedgetrimmer, and 100% of What Steve probably do on he's property.)
John, that would have been another approach.. although the Cat 2' are worn
Thanks Vampi, indeed the trimmer is only 350 KG.... I have no other heavy stuff... I do have a set of spare bars from another salvaged tractor and those cat 2... I can alsways put those up if needed
@@D3Sshooter Honestly i think it is only the plow for the heavy clay soil here and a square harv who needs those because of the rocks in the soil, and the snow remover, anything else here would do perfectly fine with those type 1.
Very nice job on the paint, looks great! A couple of thoughts came to mind when you showed us the stands, for those who work under vehicles: In the US we are cursed by marketers, and the stands that will prominently display "6 tons" on them, well, if you read the fine print carefully, they usually specify there that it's actually "6 tons per pair" so half what the big labels are suggesting! Also, there have been reports (and big recalls) of inexpensive stands from China that have had the base actually split along those vertical seams one sees in your vid. So, some folks weld a bar across the seam just for safety. (edit: dismal spelling)
Thanks for the comments, indeed that is why I use over-rated stands. I would never work under it.
I assume those secret schematic plans at 1:00 are to finally turn your skeleton buddy into a fully operational shop assistant.
haha absolutely
Here in the state of the usa those connectors are called hemi joints.
much appreciated
Actually they are Heim Joints lol in NA
A rod end bearing, also known as a heim joint or rose joint, is a mechanical articulating joint. Such joints are used on the ends of control rods, steering links, tie rods, or anywhere a precision articulating joint is required, and where a clevis end is unsuitable.
Hemi is in your Car ( or Truck nowadays ) 😉
Nice 👍👍👍
Thanks for the comments
You need to heat the bolts to cherry red. Then douse them in water to shock them loose.
Yeah heat always helps break old fasteners loose....and get a big breaker bar ( 1/2" or 3/4" or metric size lol ) and a pipe extension to crack the bolt free till your air impact can be used ( takes a high PSI/SCFM to bust it alone by air gun ) ... A Big Compressor and Good Tools and a Bigger Hose with Connectors sized for all these works ( depends on gun and hose I.D. connectors on hose sized enough to flow enough air etc...)
A little Grunt work can get it done...
I will try that...next time I will work on it
Thanks, as I state before Gary, I tried a 4 feet long extension on a wrench ...no way to get it moving...
@@D3Sshooter
Sorry ..i missed the 4 ft extension...
But heat and 4 feet might work!!
Sometimes they are hard to crack/break that first bit...good luck
@@garymallard4699 , no problem and a big thanks.. I was wondering if that was fitted with a notch at the end ... but it is a standard bold as I understand. I will give that a try later
You have to get a big hammer and hit the front of the lifting arm so that cone shape bolt jump out
Thanks for the comments
There are 2 990 early is red and later is brown 995 996 are orange on main frame
Much appreciated
From the video it appears that the top lift link pin is bent, if that is the case, you have some issues, cutting them/destroying them first obvious approach, removing the wheels seat and other lift parts out of the way may accommodate the removal of the top lift link pins, using other tools, no guarantee of success, will guarantee lots of hard labour, the problem of course is the inevitable ridge built up or cut into, depending on your point of view, the pin. Good luck, no magic pill for this one.
Thanks for the info! Its the same on both side .. no way to move it... I would think that least a litte movement should work with 3 foot rench... But no such luck
@@D3Sshooter not sure if you wanted a reply, but here I go, One trick I have seen used is to support the wieght of the lift links just to the point where the weight comes off the pin, not more, then with some patience and hard work the deformation of the pun can be lined up with the bores, and started thru. This is all I got, best of luck. Its can be a brutal job, I did lift linkage pins on my old Massey, it was cruel.
Great work Steve. I would only offer my opinion on the fuse box with screw terminals. Would it be not better to fit the one with spade terminals as crimped wires should be more secure (especially in a working/vibrating tractor) than screw terminals as they could work themselves loose? I.m sure you have your good reasons but just my opinion and I know you .like feedback :)
Edit.. ah just seen you put the fuse box with spade terminals:)
The screw terminals will work fine non critical parts on old cars for example i hawe seen some examples sitting tight since the 1960s, but as You said in theory they may oxidising stuck or come loose, i can only ansvear for the little i hawe used them my self in the past. Personaly i had done this too and went for the spades as Steve did, but yes, that's just my opinion.
Good point Shaun, I am not sure what works best ...I have not given it any further consideration.. But now that you mention it, it got me thinking
Thanks for the comments, and indeed none of these circuits on a tractor are critical circuits.
looks great, not so fun spending money on jackstands :)
Thanks for the comments, it was not that all that bad 70 Euro for all four
Will be a shame to drive it into a muddy field after you have finished!
That's life, we make it all look good and pretty and then we spoil it.... It's going to spend its life on the farm with a hedge trimmer ...So an easy life
👍🍻
Thanks for the comments
I don't know how strong your impact wrench is, it doesn't sound that strong, I just bought a deWalt heavy duty battery wrench and it is a monster 1200 ft/lbs, I understand Milwaukee makes a stronger one 1600 #s, there are high powered air impacts too. The battery tools are great since you can carry them in your car, no compressor!
Those work fine to a point....
Air Tools are still Stronger when you have a Big Compressor with a Big Tank and High PSI ( 150 - 175 + ) and Large SCFM ( 30+ ) and Larger I.D. Hoses with Big Flowing Connectors and a REAL IMPACT GUN ....
No cordless will match a Commercial Air Setup...
And just so you know...
I own Cordless since they came out.... And Air tools since the 80's and have worked on alot of Heavy Equipment .....
It all depends on alot more than most realize.....
And how long the Fastener has been last removed ( if ever ) and how many Decades it has corroded solid....
Even at times your only option is to Torch or Grind it off and Drive it out ( or Torch it out )....
Thanks, i also tried a wrench with a 4 feet extension... No way to get any movement...
Can we have a tour of your farm?
sure
The green Light's only for the " Blinker " in the EU !!
High Beam iss blue
Blinker iss green
Warning Light's
Red
I am just going with the origial colors of the David Brown, and those were the colors...
I think you only putted in the steal bar into the latche with those gloves.
Warning:
Never work on a lathe with gloves, you are quickly grabbed by the chuck I have seen people pull fingers off. Further nice video
Great point! Correct
did you win lottery ???
hahaha, I wish I did.....just hard labour for 38 years so far
When it comes to hard to remove fasteners, heat is your friend……
It sure is . Thanks for the comments
How,could,I,contact,you,🧲💐🙋♥️